Nail File 1.3lr

Issue 3August 2015

Client’s choiceMost popular services

Good read

Studying your client’s nails

The Bold and the Beautiful

Leather & Lace Looks

Le FrenchAlternAtive mAnis

What’s inside nail File

4 Industry NewsStay in the know

12 Ask the ExpertsWhat are the best ways to market my nail services?

15 TLC – client care & communicationCreating an unforgettable experience

18 Style SavvyTantalise with a titillating combo

20 Salon FocusNina Belle Nail Spa

24 Let’s get alternative with FrenchAlternative French manicures

28 Winning WaysProfessional Beauty Dubai Competition

31 The most sought afterMost popular hand, foot and nail services

32 Reading your client’s nailsLinking the condition of nails to general health

35 In the MarketProduct Hub

37 Know Your ChemicalsThe truth about enhancement chemicals

40 / 42 / 44Step by StepsThe Eye of the LeopardMidnight RainbowThe Negative Space Mani

46Top Teck TalkQ&A with Katia Da Silva

Nail File Issue 3 August 2015

4615 18 24

Welcome

Publisher Mark Moloney [email protected]

Editor Joanna Sterkowicz [email protected]

Art Director Ursula Wong [email protected]

Technical Consultant Sonette van Rensburg [email protected]

Advertising Sales 011 781 5970

As this issue went to press, we received the first entries for the Nail File Showcase Photographic Nail Art & Tip Box Competition, clearly indicating the strong interest that nail techs have in showing off their skills. Creativity is clearly

coming to the fore, which is exactly what we want.

A good portion of the upcoming Professional Beauty Johannesburg Show (30-31 August, Gallagher Convention Centre) is focused on nails – what with the numerous nail brands that will be showcasing and demonstrating their latest wares and technologies at the exhibition, as well as the Nail Competition and the ‘Educationail’ Workshop. In fact, in this issue of Nail File we report on the extremely successful first-ever ‘Educationail’ Workshop that was held in Cape Town at the end of June. Designed to uplift the industry, ‘Educationail’ is supported by Nail File and held in association with ITEC.

There are some very interesting articles to read in this issue of Nail File, such as how to get clues about your client’s health through the state of her nails, the all-important issue of client care and communication, and all there is to know about enhancement chemicals, specifically MMA. There are also fun focuses on alternative French manicures and leather & lace looks.

Joanna Sterkowicz Editor

NAIL FILEA Professional Beauty Supplement Published by T.E. Trade Events 1st Floor, Rapid Blue Building263 Oak Avenue, Ferndale, RandburgPO Box 650291, Benmore, 2010Tel: 011 781 5970 / Fax: 011 781 6079

Additional pics: www. shutterstock.com

To adverTise in Nail File, please call 011 781 5970

To coNTribuTe To ediTorial, contact Joanna

To JoiN The coNversaTioN visit www.probeauty.co.za and follow us on Facebook and Twitter.

Calgel

Calgel FP dir/jan.indd 1 2015/07/23 1:39 PM

NeWS

“The workshop was very well received and we received some amazing feedback,”

says ‘Educationail’ director Sonette van Rensburg. “We attracted a mix of delegates, from veteran technicians with over 20 years of experience, to newcomers and educators.

“Our aim was to inform and educate all nail professionals with regards to new technologies, trends, training and skills, so as to uplift the industry. We covered topics such as the importance of education in our industry, how to nail retail, providing successful services, and health and hygiene in the salon. Experts from Cal

Information at your fingertips

‘Educationail’ takes Cape Town by storm

Mo, LCN and Bio Sculpture Gel presented at the event. We also screened informative excerpts from the Face to Face with Doug Schoon video series, which proved really popular.”

Following the event, Amanda Reddy of Nails by Amanda said: “The workshop was wonderful and informative. I’m glad I took the time to re-educate myself.”

Erika Breytenbach added: “I’ve been an educator for 17 years and you taught me so much. I want to congratulate you on an outstanding workshop. It was very well organised and so informative.

“I found it amazing to hear first-hand from top brands in

the industry and learn from them. You managed to cater for veterans like myself and at the same time newcomers, without losing my attention at all. I

encourage you to do more of these workshops and after attending this one, I can recommend it to my database of students.”

Natalie Fotakis found the workshop ‘excellent, well presented and very informative’.

Petro Oberholster agreed that the workshop was ‘very informative’.

Charmaine Cross Of Sunset Beach Beauty and Wellness described the workshop as ‘super’ with ‘very valuable information’.

The next ‘Educationail’ Workshop will take place at the Professional Beauty Johannesburg Show, at Gallagher Convention Centre on 30 August. For more details visit www.probeauty.co.za


4 news

Over 30 delegates attended the first ever ‘Educationail’ Workshop (supported by Nail File and presented in association with ITEC), which took place at the Professional Beauty Cape Town Show on 28 June.

Under discussion were new products and future developments for the company.

Included in the conference activities was a tour of Bio Sculpture’s new ISO 9001:2008-accredited factory.

Bio Sculpture convenesSouth African nail brand Bio Sculpture Gel recently held its annual national conference at Zuikerkop Lodge in Clocolan (Free State).

New distributor for OPI


5news

Professional nail care brand OPI, owned by Coty Inc., will now be distributed in South Africa by The Prestige Cosmetics Group, a subsidiary of CAVI Brands.

Says Maria Lambros, CEO of The Prestige Cosmetics Group: “We are very excited to be taking on OPI

as it is a fashion brand and one that, we believe, will open up new doors for our company. OPI is the number one nail brand in the world and we want it to be number one in South Africa.

“In addition, we feel it has a good synergy with our premium

professional skincare brand, Elemis.”

OPI will also receive implementation oversight from The Prestige Cosmetics Group’s sister company, Dermalogica, given this brand’s experience in the professional beauty sector.

Industry News

Wondernail’s Dina Katakuzinos provides some background: “The company was born as a family business 25 years ago and was also known as Caprice. We have been developing professional products and services since 2007. Caprice always had the Wondernail, Ezflow, TruGel and Backscratchers brands, but as it is the manufacturing division,

Wondernail makes a comeback

in 2014 we formally separated Caprice from the nail care side, which is now called Wondernail Pty Ltd.”

Earlier this year Wondernail moved into its own premises in Bedfordview.

Katakuzinos continues: “We have always offered training in all the systems, but now we

With the launch of its own signature line – DK by Dina – as well as a new training facility, Wondernail is set to make a renewed impact on the South African industry.

have our own training centre and qualified external educators who are passionate about our brands. Courses include training on all nail enhancement systems – acrylic, gel, silk & fibre – and manicure and pedicure training. We also run nail art workshops and will soon introduce some interesting training sessions.”


6 news

All 16 finalists in this year’s Miss Free State Pageant, held on 23 May at Pacofs in Bloemfontein, received nail enhancements, as well as an eyebrow wax and tint, courtesy of The Nail House.

In addition, The Nail House sponsored an 8-month voucher for nails for the 1st Princess, while the 2nd princess received a 4-month voucher.

Says Odette Els of The Nail House: “We were noted as a

sponsor and pictures were taken with all the girls. It was the experience of a lifetime and great publicity for us.

“I think more salons should sponsor where they can. You get to meet so many different people, and word of mouth is the best advertisement.”

In other news, The Nail House has introduced a Logik Gel Polish Workshop in response to requests from consumers.

“The workshop is basic training only, as some clients don’t have the finances to do their nails at a salon every second week, so they do them at home,” continues Els. “We have what we call the ‘look good from

home’ policy. There will always be people who prefer a salon to doing it themselves, thus we are confident that our ‘usuals’ will always come to us for the treat of having their nails done.”

Els points out that Logik Gel Polish applies like a normal nail polish and is thus easy for everyone to use at home. The workshop is one day a month and is offered at The Nail House’s Bayswater and Willows branches.

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Nail House sponsors Miss Free State finalists

Dina Katakuzinos

Dina Katakuzinos

Visit www.probeauty.co.za for more info.☞

Expand your skills

Limited Space!

ONLY R550

In association with

Issue 1Mar/Apr

2015

Budget Boffin How to price nail art

Strain drain

Preventing and treating CTDs

Go fiGureMost popular

nail shapes

in the moodMarsala tones

Issue 2June 2015

New kid onthe blockStart-up salons

Metal Mania

Metallic and chroMe shades

toe the linePrime pedi services

Lekker lacquerWhat’s in nail polish

✶ Includes FREE ENTRY into the Nail Competition

• Learn the latest techniques

• Excellent skills development

• Tutorials from leading brand names

• Learn how to grow your business

• Nails… more than just ART!

• Free goodie bag and prize give away on the day

Held for the FIRsT TImEin Johannesburg, this educational event is dedicated to Nail Professionals and is supported by the fantastic Nail File magazine.

New NaIl woRksHop inJohannesburg

sunday, 30 August 2015

NSI’s JHB nail competitionAt the recent regional competition held by NSI at Norwood Mall in Johannesburg, Jess Scott-Turner of Petit Papillon Nails won the art category.

“What won it for me was my flip nail art,” says Scott-Turner. “The theme was ‘Elements of Nature’ and I did flames of fire underneath the nails.”

Two new franchised Scarla May Nail and Body Bars will open by December this year – in Durban and Northcliff, Johannesburg.

The first (and to date only) Scarla May Nail and Body Bar opened its doors a year ago at the Lifestyle Centre in Ballito.

Says founder Scarla May: “It’s been my dream to offer luxury, yet time-conscious treatments in a sophisticated atmosphere for women who don’t have much time on their hands. We turn each treatment into a sense of occasion.

Clients relax in our exquisite setting and are offered a complimentary glass of French champagne

during their treatment. The idea is to change the face of how South Africans experience essential beauty therapy treatments, like an everyday manicure and pedicure.”

May notes that her vision is to create nail bars across South Africa and Namibia. “We only hire qualified, experienced and skilled therapists and use internationally acclaimed products that are also available for retail,” she concludes.

scarla May

New Scarla May Nail Bars set to open

Formalising nail educationProfessional Beauty recently convened a suppliers’ meeting at its offices in Ferndale, Randburg, to discuss how nail brands that offer training in their products can become registered as Professional Education Service Providers. Present were representatives from Nail File, ITEC, Cal-Mo (Calgel), Star Nail and LCN, as well as industry consultants.


9news

SAM BIddlEBefore you start marketing your nail services, there are three questions you need to ask yourself:

1. How do you communicate with your customers?Online is the easiest and fastest way to keep in touch with your clients. The first thing I would do is set us a business page on Facebook, link your Instagram account to it and then fill it with images of your work and handy

tips and hints on how to look after your nails. There is a wealth of information on the internet that you can share with your new customers.I suggest you do a profile on yourself, your business and premises. You then need to hit the local groups on social media and post the link to your business pages. Don’t do this just once, you need to share your page a few times over the course of a few months.

If you have a website, then it can be filled with useful information on taking care of your nails and some inspirational images of your work. Once you have this online presence, then you can start using paper for promotion – print off some flyers and cards and starting handing these out, pushing them through letterboxes and including them in newspapers and magazines. The paper flyers should direct your customers to your Facebook or your website.

MarketingWiSdom

QuEsTIOn: what are the best ways to market my nail services?


10 ask the experts

V

Sam Biddle is renowned worldwide as a nail technician and educator. She is an international judge and

competition winner and the creative director of Jealous Cow Ltd.

away advice or top tips, even if it is something as simple as using oil in the cuticles to promote growth. They will read your comments and information and think of you when they need more.

Everyone loves images, so post pictures of your work and of you at work. Make them identify with you and get them to know you. If you have just bought a new colour

collection, post a cool image of the colours to your Instagram account. Have you found a fantastic range of gems for your nails? If so, then take a photo and share.

Refrain from offering a lot of discounts and special offers, because people will come to depend on them. I would keep those offers to yourself until your new client calls, and then you can close the sale with the special offer.

3. How often do you follow up?You should now be building up followers on your Facebook page and creating a list of e-mails for your newsletters. You need to start getting personal and get them to know who you are. Newsletters are a popular way of conveying your message; sending them a blast every other week helps you build a relationship with your new customers. You can gather e-mail addresses through your client consultation cards and then share your offers and discounts with these customers.

If you have customers with birthdays coming up, make sure you drop them a short e-mail wishing them a great day and give them a gift of a 10% discount when they next visit, for example. It is that personal touch with your customers that will keep them loyal and prompt them to refer you to their friends.

Keep the information short and simple and use images to convey your business, such as a beautiful picture of nail art or a natural look nail you have done and can offer clients. Another wonderful way to promote yourself is to attend local fairs, and school fetes. Give away vouchers for your services as raffle prizes and involve yourself with groups of ladies who may like a talk on nails.

2. What do you tell your customers?It is important to vary your content; don’t just tell them that you are a nail tech, or bombard them with offers and prices, people always love it when they get something for nothing, so give


11ask the experts

Ask the Expert

YVETTE NEl The best way to market your nail services is still word of mouth. So the question is – how do you get clients to want to talk about you?

A great way is to reward your existing customers, when they have referred a number of people to you. One can make use of voucher flyers or cards as a referral programme. It can have a rand value or a percentage discount for their first new set of nails with you. What you do is give five vouchers to each of your existing customers to hand to their friends, family and colleagues and when five vouchers bearing the same existing client’s name are returned, you give the client a discount of a free treatment as thanks. I promise you that this works phenomenally. Your clients will absolutely love showing off their nails everywhere knowing there is a reward in it for them. This also puts the new clients in your salon who should also become regulars in order to activate this reward system for them too.

Another great way to market your nails services is of course Facebook – you really do need

to be on it for the sake of your business.

Post pictures of your work daily! Clients LOVE seeing what you are capable of. It is especially great if you do a lot of nail art, which is so hot and happening at the moment. Tag the client whose hands are in the pic so her profile friends can also see the nails on her wall.

Your nail creations must be the hot subject to discuss with every single one of your clients – you need to be consistent and regular in what you do.


12 ask the experts

Yvette Nel started out in 2002 as a passionate nail technician working

with all nail systems. In 2007 she had a complete career change, from nail tech to sales & area manager for Looking Good LCN. Nel loves sharing her knowledge and expertise with anyone who takes

their business seriously.

SONETTE VAN RENSBURGWe all have one common goal in mind and that is to succeed in our nail business. Although competition is healthy as it keeps you at the top of your game, clients now have a greater selection of salons to choose from, with new nail salons popping up all around us and offering more than just nail services. Therefore marketing your business effectively is imperative.

One thing we must remember is that there are different types of salons out there, and some marketing strategies may not suit you or your business. Before starting a marketing plan you will need to assess your nail business and gather some basic information to assist you. Do some market research and find out exactly what is going on in your area and decide on your target market. This information will help you when you are planning to run a special to

The best way to market your nail services is still

word of mouth.

Sonette van Rensburg has been in the industry for 25

years and consults with salons and spas and trains salon

professionals in all aspects of nail technology.


13ask the experts

ensure that you don’t under-price or completely over-price yourself. It will depend on whether you have a home-based salon, a salon in a hotel, or whether you are situated in a busy mall. When deciding on a medium to promote your business think about whether or not that type of advertising will be effective or not and look at various options.

We are living in an amazing technologically advanced world, with a variety of tools at our disposal to connect with people, as well as to access and gain information, so why not use it? However, use it wisely and, most of all, effectively. Remember that your older clients, although they are slowly but surely joining the internet generation, may need to be reached in other ways.

Loyalty programme – setting up a loyalty programme and rewarding your clients for spending money with you is a great way of retaining a loyal client base, but it needs to be executed correctly. There are software applications for salons that can assist you with managing

this and which help to keep track of as much information about your clients as possible.

Adverts – newspaper adverts are great, but it pays to know whether

the people in your area actually read newspapers.

E-mail – get permission from clients to

e-mail them specials/newsletters, etc. Keep the

e-mails interesting and short.

Social media – create a page for your salon on Facebook and update it with interesting information on a regular basis, ensuring that whatever you post is relevant. There are also many other social media channels to participate in, such as Twitter, Pinterist, LinkedIn, Instagram, Snapchat and others. Choose the ones that are relevant to your business and that target the people you want to reach.

Website – it is really important to have a website that tells people about you and who you are, what you have to offer, what’s happening and what’s new. Make sure it is easy to navigate, gives the correct information and represents your business in a positive way. A blog attached to your site for people to ask questions and post their comments is also a great added feature.

Promotions – ask your product suppliers to assist you; it can attract clients to have ‘The Expert’ attend to them for the day. Also ask for consignment retail stock for the day to maximise the promotion; this can benefit both salon and supplier.

Trade shows – don’t forget about trade shows, events and competitions to promote and market your business. They give you an ideal opportunity and platform to put yourself front and centre before a specifically targeted audience to showcase your skills and abilities.

At the end of the day I still feel that the most effective marketing tool is word of mouth. I believe that if you are professional, passionate, take pride in your work and care about what you do, while delivering an outstanding service, you will be successful and keep your business on the cutting edge of the nail industry.

Also, never compromise on quality, and ensure that you always understand the importance and value of offering the latest in product innovations, techniques and staying up to date with the newest, upcoming colour and fashion trends.


14 Competition

☞

Categories:

Please do not hesitate to contact the Competition Director should you have any questions or need further assistance. Sonette van Rensburg (Competition Director)Cell no: 076 585 4191email: [email protected] or [email protected]

Nail Competition

Make-upCompetition

NailFile Showcase Competition (open to all levels)

(Closing date for entries 30th July)

• Photographic Nail Art• Tip Box Nail Art

31st August 2015

Nail Art Competition (open to all levels)

• Mixed Media

Tip Overlay Competition– 2 levels (Novice & intermediate)

• Liquid & Powder • Gel

Sculpting Competition - Traditional Pink & White- 2 levels (intermediate and Masters only)

• Liquid & Powder • Gel

The competition entry forms and further information can be

found on the website.

www.probeauty.co.zaEntry forms

Each competitor and their model/s must register for Professional Beauty Expo.

Register early and save the R75 on-site entry fee.

* Entry fee for the competition/s is separate.

• Photographic (Glamour – Any choice of theme)

• Team Creative – Theme Cinderella(For students and colleges only, to participate and enter as teams of three make-up artists who will work together.)

• Twist of Glamour - Theme Cinderella (For Masters and Professionals only, the Make-up Professional has complete artistic freedom to make-up a model in the pre-set theme.)

Categories:31st August 2015

Sponsors:

N A I L A C A D E M Y N A I L A C A D E M Y

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15Business

Why should a client visit your salon as opposed to any other, especially

with so many salons available to choose from? It’s all about accommodating a client’s needs; everyone is different and has their own specific needs and reasons why they choose one salon over

another. Clients might opt for convenience, or outstanding treatments on offer, or the technician’s expertise, or excellent client care and service. Maintaining all these on a regular and ongoing basis can be challenging, but could, ultimately, be the reason for retaining or losing a client.

You may be an excellent nail technician who performs amazing treatments but your client care and service may not be the best, however clients will continue to support you. Do not assume that this situation will last forever, and remember that paying attention to detail in every aspect of your business can go a long way.

Tlc – client care & communicationFor your nail business to be successful you must create a complete and unforgettable experience for your customer from the minute they walk through your door to the minute they leave, writes sonette van rensburg.


16 Business

Creating the complete experience You need to ensure that there is a distinct point of difference that will attract clients to your salon. This point of difference should be experienced by your clients, not only in the treatments you offer, or by having a beautifully furnished salon with the latest state of the art equipment, but in the way that they are treated and in the way in which their treatments are conducted. If you can get your client care and service spot on, you are well on your way to success.

As a nail professional you will develop relationships with your clients – these could be short-

term and others more long-term. Once a client gains the utmost trust in you and what you do, the relationship could go on for years.

Clients have high expectations and will differ from one to another in terms of requirements. No matter what your client’s

needs, or what type of service she is having, or the length of time she is spending with you, she still deserves the best service and care.

As a nail professional you will be expected to represent yourself and your salon in the most professional manner

CONSUlTATION CAN ASSIST IN THE FOllOWING WAYS:1. To put the client at ease;2. To build a trusting relationship with the client;3. To establish the needs of the client and whether these differ

from what he/she wants;4. To ensure the suitability of the client for a treatment;5. To make sure that the client understands his/her commitment

to the treatment;6. To agree on a suitable treatment plan for the client;7. To discuss all options available to the client (ie. products and

type of treatment);8. To answer any questions the client may have;9. To agree on correct home care and the products needed to

carry it out.


17Business

possible, providing services of the highest quality with professionalism, diligence and care.

ConsultationSo many salons don’t realise the importance of consultation and how it contributes towards a client’s overall experience. Everyone likes to be treated as an individual and to know that you are interested in them as a person. The goal of any consultation is to ‘custom-service’ every client, through a thorough diagnosis of the client’s individual needs, and then to build the appropriate and personalised treatment plan for them.

Consultation is also the first step to opening a sale and recommending a good home care programme.

If possible it is advisable to carry out the evaluation and consultation when the client makes an appointment. This saves you time during the actual appointment as it prepares you and educates your client prior to the time.

Consultation manages your client’s expectations to determine what needs to be done, and prevents any surprises should she require additional treatments to ensure complete customer satisfaction.

Communication Good communication skills are vital in order to ensure a good relationship between yourself, your colleagues and your clients; it also conveys your professionalism.

You will be communicating with your client continuously in many different ways, from the time they arrive until the time they leave. It takes two to communicate and it can help you to understand your client’s needs and accommodate them in the best and most professional way possible.

I believe that the ability to communicate effectively with your clients is probably one of the most important skills

you will need to master in your profession, especially given that you will be dealing with many different types of personalities and temperaments. Always communicate effectively, clearly and in a professional manner as it prevents misunderstandings, makes you look and sound more professional and assists you in giving your clients sound advice.

A nail business with an excellent reputation, which provides high standards of service and customer care, and which does not compromise on quality, will most definitely be the most successful.

As is often said, the smallest things can make the biggest difference.


18 style savvy

Tantalise with a

titillating combo

We have chosen this theme for our fashion focus for this issue of Nail File as it is a great look for any season

and contributes beautifully to an overall look. The contrasting textures and leather & lace-like colours complement each other, suggesting an attitude of toughness that says: ‘Don’t mess with me’, while creating a subtle feeling of softness, femininity and sexy sophistication.

set the pace and embrace your dark side with a bit of Leather & Lace. some things just look good together and these two textures certainly offer a unique blend of extreme opposites.

Izabelle Hammon


19style savvy

This very popular look has been spotted lately on the runways of many a fashion show, proving to be a favourite and fashionable mani.

So dare to get inspired and create your Leather & Lace look, with a collection of nail polish colours in matte, gloss and textured combinations.

Add some nail art and embellishments to spruce and bling it up, or apply an already

prepared nail coating for a flawless finish and look.

impe

rolo

ndon

.co.

uk

Ice Box Colours from left to right: Gold shimmer, Black nights, Pomodoro Ice, silver shimmerm, scarlet Ice

Belle de jourOpening nina Belle nail spa, situated at the Villa Varosi centre in Radiokop, Gauteng, was a strategic decision for owner sylwia nourse, writes Joanna sterkowicz.


20 salon Focus

Nina Belle Nail Spa opened its doors on 6 July 2011. At the time, Sylwia Nourse, a qualified skincare therapist

with 12 years of experience, felt that women were inclined to spend more time and resources on having their hair and nails done.

“Even on a small budget you can spoil yourself by having a fabulous manicure or pedicure and feel pampered for an hour,” says Nourse. “Then you get to show off your beautifully manicured hands and feet.”

The salon originally opened under the name of Lulu Belle.

“My husband Andrew came up with the name and we opened the store with branded signage, uniforms, business cards, etc. only to be served legal papers three months into trading! Unbeknown to us, we were infringing on a trademarked name in South Africa. This was a huge blow to us as we not only had to come up with a new name, but also change all our stationery, uniforms, signage, and, of course, the admin that had our logo all over it.

“Nina is my Mom’s name; it fitted well with our look and the image we wanted to portray, and so we became Nina Belle Nail Spa. Now,

V


21salon Focus

four years later, I don’t think that we could have been called anything else.”

The lookWhen entering the salon, which is just over 100 square metres in size, one is aware of how light and cheerful an environment it is, situated on the corner of the Villa Varosi building and encased by large windows.

Despite not being an interior decorator herself and not having the budget to employ one, Nourse had a definite idea of the décor upfront.

“I wanted clean, simple yet feminine lines, with a spacious feel and lots of light – and all this without looking too clinical,” continues Nourse.

“Somehow, it all just came together.

“Everything has been carefully laid out to ensure that clients feel relaxed, energised and free of stress. Our aim was to create a feeling of sophisticated elegance without losing that sense of warmth.”

Magic formulaNourse believes that Nina Belle Nail Spa stands out from competitors because the salon ‘sticks to the basics’, uses high-quality brands (OPI, Gelish, Bio Sculpture Gel and Medi-Heel)

and has exceptionally good nail techs.

“Our stations are comfortable, and most of all, we love what we do. We are passionate about people, take pride in the work that we do and strive to really get to know all of our clients.

“My staff are incredibly close – they work as a team and are professional and hardworking. All together we seem to have a certain ‘magic formula’ that just works. Many people have asked me where I get my staff from – they all seemed to be cut from the same cloth. The dynamic

The dynamic of your staff sets and creates the mood and atmosphere in your salon. You need to get that right.

{ {


22 salon Focus

of your staff sets and creates the mood and atmosphere in your salon. You need to get that right. Once you do, you have a winner.”

Happily situatedNourse notes the salon is easily accessible in terms of locale. “My husband and I looked around for a long time. As you can imagine, it is not easy to find a great spot for a salon in Johannesburg. All I can say is that we got lucky.

open an upmarket nail spa were on the verge of being realised.”

‘To die for’Nourse describes the salon’s manicure and pedicure treatments as ‘to die for’. However, she stresses that her nail techs stick to the basics (thorough cuticle work-shaping and filing, fabulous massage, long-lasting great quality paint work), combined with a comfortable chair and lovely ambience.

Although it is a frontline nail salon, Nina Belle also offers waxing services, facials, holistic massage and lash and brow tinting.

“I think in many ways salons have to diversify in order not to lose potential revenue,” maintains Nourse. “Perhaps the small number of ‘nails only’ salons in South Africa is due to the fact that consumers here prefer a ‘one stop shop’. Thus, as a business owner, you feel you may be taking a risk in just offering one type of service.

“But in the end you have to decide what your core business is. For us it is nails. However, that does not exclude other services. You need to evolve as a business, or otherwise you may be left behind.”

Nina Belle’s Loyalty Card system has paid off, because, as Nourse points out, everyone enjoys a little something back.

“And our clients are always super-excited to redeem theirs. Our system is very simple, but it works!” concludes Nourse.

One morning on my way to work, I stopped at a building site that was around the corner from where we lived, and asked the people on site what was being built and who could I speak to with regards to shop availability.

“And the rest, you can say, is history. The gentleman gave me the details, I phoned my now landlord, made a proposal which he liked, and we were offered the site. It was an extremely stressful but exciting time as my dreams to

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Competition as well as the NEW Nail Professionals Workshop.

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www.medicalaesthetics.co.za

INSPIREd By BEAuTy, let your

journey begin

JoHANNESBuRg 2015


24 nail trends

The good old traditional French manicure has never gone out of fashion. It’s a timeless classic that

has remained ever popular for any occasion and has always been a safe option to go with, when you are stuck for choice.

But why not move away from playing it safe? Experiment a little and get alternative, and I don’t mean with your music, but rather by turning your client’s same old boring French nail look into something a little more vibey, colourful, playful and exciting.

With an endless choice and variety of colour collections available to mix and match,

from fun, playful pastels, to an explosion of bright, cheerful summery shades, marvellous metallics or shimmering top coats, you can definitely explore your more creative side using two contrasting tones of colour or more, creating the most unusual combinations and variations.

You can even give your clients’ nails a bit of an edge by adding some rhinestones, striping tape, decals and designs – the possibilities are just endless.

‘Shapely’ nailsThe shape of the manicure can also come into play and can completely change the end result and look of an alternative French,

making it look either a bit more dramatic or subtle. This depends on what shape your client goes for and whether it’s being created on her natural nails or with enhancements. I suggest that nail techs take a look at what the celebrities are up to and the unconventional French looks they are sporting on their fingertips.

Here are some great ideas for you to try out; any of these looks can be created to be either not-so-permanent in a polish application, or semi-permanent in a gel polish or enhancement application. It all depends on your client and what her requirements are and how long she would like the manicure to last.

Let’s get alternative with French!

sonette van rensburg suggests some ways that nail techs can get creative with French manicures.


25nail trends

I would suggest though, that if this is the first time your client is experimenting with an alternative French look, then start with a polish application in something not too drastically different and if she decides it’s something she absolutely loves, then try a little more of a daring combination and recommend going a little more semi-permanent.

As a nail tech you may think that alternative French is not something you would like to try, but I always say that you don’t know a good thing until you’ve tried it. V


26 nail trends

Black & White French This is a very popular combination seen lately in so many different variations from basic black with white French tips or in reverse, in white with black tips and then the same combinations with designs over the tips, gold and silver striping tape and even rhinestones along the smile line dividing the colours – the possibilities are endless.

Black also looks very elegant and classic on tips with the nail bed done in a nude tone, especially on almond or rounded shaped nails. Heidi Klum was

recently spotted on The X Factor as a judge, wearing black on the nail beds and white on the tips of her talons. She looked so sophisticated and you could not take your eyes off her nails.

Matte & Gloss The combination and use of glossy and matte textured polish is a fairly new nail trend that has come onto the scene and is seen more and more, being explored in some interesting and viable design solutions and suggestions. Very elegant and popular is the use of black on black and gold on gold, with the nail bed being polished in either gloss or matte and the

tips in the opposite. However, you don’t need to stick with both the nail bed and tips being the same shade, using combinations of nude and black and red and white looks just as stunning.

Fun & Colourful I believe that the qualities you need to succeed in nail fashion are being colourful, energised and enthusiastic. Creating alternative French combinations with two or more way out colours can be anything you want it to be, from soft and feminine, to slightly sophisticated and more abstract


27nail trends

Whatever combination, system or medium you choose to use to create your alternative French, make sure you have fun doing it and explore your creative side. Remember that nails are a perfect canvas and you have complete artistic freedom to interpret just about anything you want.

Whether you’re a fashionista and follower of fashion or you

just want your nails to wow the crowd, remember that they are the best fashion accessory we have, to wear with absolutely everything and anything. It’s fashion for your fingers!

options, or even monochrome and minimalistic interpretations.

The most phenomenal creations can be engineered with nail enhancement products in an assortment of colours incorporating absolutely anything from basic primary shades, to adding glitter and even artistic designs, in long stiletto or edge shaped talons.

The Professional Beauty Dubai Nail Competition took place at Madinat, Jumeirahi on 25 and 26 January 2015.

A large contingent of contestants competed in the following categories: Pink & White Competition Style; Permanent Polish; Bridal Boxed; and Freestyle.

The overall winner was Pham Thi Tuyet.


28 nail Competition

Winning ways - PB Dubainail File’s look at the international competition circuit.

29nail Competition

R

INSPIRING LASTING CONFIDENCE


30 services

Chantal Volkwyn, manager of Sorbet Nails Gardens in Cape Town, notes

that manis are the most popular service in her salon.

Says Volkwyn: “We’ve found that demand is seasonal though, as pedis do overtake manis in popularity in the summer months. People literally flock through our doors in summer as they want their feet and toenails looking lovely for sandals and flip-flops. Usually the demand for pedis starts picking up in September. Our deluxe manis and pedis are very popular as they include exfoliation and massage.”

According to Volkwyn, there is a fair percentage of clients who request polish on their nails, as opposed to gel or acrylic. “Usually though, it’s the clients who are taking a break from gel who want the polish. Interestingly, there is always a big demand for gel on toenails.”

The most popular services at The Nail & Body Lab at The BluBird Centre in Birnam, Johannesburg are definitely manis and pedis.

Says the salon’s Simone De Beer: “There is usually a slight dip in pedicure business during the winter months – for instance, some of our pedicure clients who come in every two weeks in

summer, would come in once a month in winter time. However, the paraffin dips that are part of our manis and pedis are very popular, especially in winter time when the skin on the hands and feet is so dehydrated.”

De Beer notes that there is not a huge demand for acrylic at the salon, but that gel is still very popular.

“Having said that, we do have a lot of clients who want nail polish on their nails,” continues De Beer. “We recently introduced a new, long wearing chip resistant nail polish brand and the majority of our nail polish clients have switched to that. Our older

The most sought afterJoanna sterkowicz did a phone around of nail salons to ascertain what services contribute the biggest percentage of overall turnover – is it manis, pedis, enhancements or quick services?

The first indication of a nail becomingloose, is a change in it’s colour from

pink to cream (see bottom 3 photos)

This may lead to degeneration & fungal infection

Examples of loose nails in various stages of degeneration.

This can happen when a loose nail is ignored.

www.loosenails.com

uniquely aids in restoring,maintaining and protection of

beautiful nails

[email protected]

is distributed through Pharmaciesand Nail Care Clinics in South Africa and

Namibia and online to other parts of the worldContact Willie Fourie cc Tel. +27(0)861 999 907

Fix-4-Nails ®

clients don’t like to shift from one brand to another and stick to what they know.”

According to Christelle Serfontein of Butterfly Fairies Nails & Beauty in Pretoria East, the most requested service at the moment is a full set of acrylic nails.

“We do a lot of nail art, all in colour,” continues Serfontein. “Even when we do French manicures we use colour combinations. I would describe us as a very ‘arty’ salon – we really do a huge variety of nail art with lots of embellishments.”

Interestingly, the salon doesn’t experience a big demand for manis and pedis. “In fact,” says Serfontein, “I don’t think we’ve done either a mani or a pedi in the last month. But I have noticed that there is a slight seasonal surge in terms of pedicures; at the end of August some clients do start requesting pedicures for summer.”

Getty Gizaw of SOHO NYC in Sandton City, Johannesburg, confirms that manis and pedis are the most popular services at her salon.

“We do experience a slight drop in the number of pedis that we perform in the winter months but it’s not that noticeable,” comments Gizaw.

She notes that in terms of the gel, acrylic and tips services she offers, gel polish is definitely the most requested.

“Some clients still ask for normal nail polish though,” concludes Gizaw.

Nail Competition

As the American philosopher and author, Henry David Thoreau, said, ‘It’s not what you look at that matters, it’s

what you see’.

The skin, hair and nails have long been used by medical practitioners to help diagnose medical conditions, but newer research is showing that we can link specific nutritional deficiencies to certain changes in the skin and nails by the way that these nutrients work in the body

Our health depends on 50 trillion cells and hundreds of biochemical processes every minute of every day.

Whatever the symptoms, whether it is hair falling out, acne or atypical nails, our body most often is trying to communicate something. We just need to learn what it means and how to deal with it.

Heathy skin, hair and nails are dependent on:

* adequate protein

* vitamins and minerals

* phytonutrients

* essential fatty acids

* complex CHO (carbohydrates)

* water

Therapists play an invaluable role in the healthcare chain as they are often the first to notice a deviation from normal. We should provide clients with information and the appropriate referrals. The therapist’s role is not diagnostic as the clues you see may be part of a bigger medical picture.

ESSENTIAlSIt takes six months for a nail to grow out, so I describe nails as ‘six months of your medical history carried in your pocket’.

The 5 essentials for healthy nails are:

* ZINC

* PROTEIN

* SELENIUM

* IRON

* BIOTIN

ZincZinc is an essential trace mineral found in muscles, bones, teeth, hair, nails, skin and the liver, among other organs. Its role is the formation of bone (collagen and calcitonin).

Signs of zinc deficiency are dry skin and leukonychia (white nails or milk spots).

Reading yourclient’s nailsThe outward appearance of our skin, hair and nails are great diagnostic windows into the state of our inner health and wellbeing, writes consulting functional medicine pharmacist, Kelly robinson.


32 nail health

Nail Competition

Protein Protein is present in every cell in your body. It is obtained from diet and manufactured internally. The role of protein is to provide structure and shape to cells, organs and connective tissue. Proteins are used by the body in biochemical reactions as enzymes and used to make hormones that signal and control all activities throughout the body.

Antibodies (our immune system) are made from protein, which is also used by the body as an energy source when no carbohydrates are available.

Protein deficiency is associated with thinning, brittle nails (transverse ridges).

SeleniumThis is a mineral with anti-oxidant properties, involved in thyroid

Transverse (longitudinal) pigmentationis a sign of protein deficiency.

Recommended supplements: whey protein/ Amino acid

Foods: increase protein intake and reduce carbohydrates, fried fatty food and sugars

NAIl CONdITIONS

Onchomyosis (fungal infection of the nail)

Recommended supplements: Iron 25mg-50 mg (take care recommending iron supplements in males), Vitamin B3 250-1000mg

Foods: tuna, chicken, pork, broccoli, asparagus, peanuts, coffee

The client should be referred for medical treatment of the fungal infection.

Splinter Hemorrhage (a thin red to reddish-brown line of blood that runs under the nail in the direction of nail growth).

Recommended supplement: Vitamin C 1500mg

Foods: guava, sweet peppers, kiwi fruit, orange, grapefruit, broccoli, tomato, kale and mango .

Splinter hemorrhage may also be associated with cardiac (heart) conditions.

Koilonychia (spoon nails)is when the normally convex nail appears concave.

Recommended supplements: Iron, Vitamin C, Folic Acid and Vitamin B12

Foods: beef, kale, green leafy, vegetables, pumpkin seeds, eggs, almonds, brazils and cashews. Fizzy drinks should be avoided.

V

references.medscape.com

yourfingernails.wordpress.com

aafp.org

dublinchiropodist.ie


33nail health

Kelly Robinson is a passionate pharmacist who has a particular interest in the areas of Functional Medicine and Clinical Practice Medicine. Robinson consults with patients, and is co-owner of Tyrone Pharmacy as well as co-founder of Tyrone wellness in Parkview Johannesburg.

leukonychia (white nails or milk spots)

Recommended supplements: Zinc picolinate15mg, Selenium 100mcg

Foods: oysters, lamb, pecan nuts, cabbage, liver, eggs, tuna, chicken, and green leafy veg

function, the production of glutathione (vital to detoxification in the liver), heavy metal detoxification, immune system stimulation and cancer prevention.

Selenium deficiency is associated with impaired hair and nail growth.

BiotinBiotin is comprised of Vitamin B7 (aka Vitamin H) and can be manufactured in the intestine. Its role in the body is as a co-enzyme in energy production and to facilitate the metabolism of fats, CHO and protein for healthy skin, hair and nails.

Deficiency of biotin is associated with thin, brittle nails, as well as eczema and dermatitis.

Iron This is an essential mineral that is vital for energy production; the production of red blood cells and the transportation of oxygen around the body. It’s also involved in the conversion of blood sugar to energy.

Onchorrexis (brittle nails)

Recommended supplement: Biotin 30mcg

Foods: eggs, seafood, green leafy, vegetables, peanuts, wholewheat bread

Therapist should check for other signs of iron deficiency and refer if necessary.

Psoriasis(thick white, silvery or red patches of skin)

Recommended supplements: Zinc picolinate15mg, Selenium 100mcg, Biotin 30mcg, Omega 3 1500mg day, Vitamin D 2000iu day.

Food: gut healing diet (detox or elimination diet)

Client should be referred to a dietitian.

Beaus lines (one or more transverse lines in the nail plate)

Recommended supplement: Zinc picolinate 15mg

Foods: oysters, red meat, chicken, beans, nuts, dairy

This condition may be associated with medical conditions.

NAIl CONdITIONS

nailpro.com

crutchfielddermatology.com

Dermnet nZ.org

newhealthguide.org


34 nail health

Prod

Our round-up of the latest product launches in the exciting world of nails.

Product Hub

New hard gelStar Nail Africa will introduce a new T3 LED/UV cured hard gel with a controlled levelling formula at Professional Beauty Johannesburg. This odour-free gel right stays where the therapist applies it. T3’s Cool Cure Technology removes the heat created during the curing process. The gel works perfectly with Cuccio Veneer Soak Off Gel.012 751 1207

Wonderful waxThe Wondernail Paraffin Wax is a luxurious treatment designed to moisturise and soften hands and feet. Non-drying, non-peel-off and instant, Paraffin Wax is applied as a component of manicures and pedicures, leaving the skin feeling slick, soft and super-moisturised. Clients can also use it to maintain their manicures and pedicures at home. 084 888 3462

Gorgeous greetingsThe Hello Pretty Morgan Taylor and Gelish matching Summer Collections will be available at salons, spas and retail outlets nationwide as from September. Colours comprise Tokyo A Go Go, Do You Harajuku, Pop-Arazzi Pose, Anime-zing Color, Look At You Pink-achu and Manga-round With Me.011 447 0659/3


35in the market

Crazy about chromeMorgan Taylor’s Chrome Collection combines a chrome base coat and colour appliqués for a gorgeous metallic look. Six vivid, striking and bold hues can be used with one colour, a blend of shades or even custom nail art on top of the chrome base to achieve a gorgeous metallic finish every time. 011 447 0659/3

Shine on Ultra Shine Black Diamond from LCN Looking Good is enriched with real diamond dust for even more shine. A light-curing, high-gloss sealant with UV protection and easy white effect, Ultra Shine Black Diamond is ideally suited to seal a French look, colour gels and permanent nail art.010 593 3293

Rhythmic lacquersSpaRitual’s Rhythm Collection for Spring 2015 harmonises with the music that surrounds us all. Colours include Seasons (chamomile shimmer matte satin), Cycles (peach crème matte satin), Dynamics (dusty pink crème matte satin), Vibration (pale pink crème matte satin), Pattern (dark grey glitter matte satin) and Groove (soft blue matte satin).021 552 6999

Top it offThe Express5 Shellac Top Coat from CND provides effortless, glide-on application and promises 14+ days of phenomenal wear. It leaves a stunning crystal shine on the nail and offers an incredible 5-minute removal that does not damage nails. Also new from CND is the LED Lamp, which features 3C technology for a complete chromatic cure.011 791 4027


36 in the market

So, how do you know when you are using a chemical which is not safe? With all nail enhancement systems there are advantages and disadvantages so make sure you know what you are using. There are definite tell-tale signs that will warn you to steer clear of using a product which could be potentially dangerous. Here are some points that could assist you: • Areyouusingawell-known

brand?• Isthebrandsupportedwith

professional training?

Nowadays professional products are formulated under strict controls in

order to be as safe as possible, though no nail product is completely free from all risks. Products we deem to be normally safe could become a risk and dangerous if used incorrectly. It is therefore of the utmost importance that nail technicians are well educated, skilled and have a sound knowledge and understanding of the enhancement chemicals they use.

Despite new product innovations and technology advancements being introduced into the industry on an ongoing basis, there are still some nail enhancement chemicals used in salons that are not safe, writes sonette van rensburg.

TheTruTH

about nailenhancement chemicals

• Don’tuse‘noname’brandproducts.

• Aretheingredientslistedonthe label?

• Ifyourproductsareconsiderably cheaper than others, then that is a sure warning sign that they are not safe.

• Havetheproductsyouare using been tested and approved by a recognised body such as the FDA or the EU?

• Isthecompanyabletoprovideyou with material safety data sheets? These are documents which any well-known and


37Know your chemicals

approved international product brand should have and be able to provide you with, especially when the product contains ingredients which could be potentially hazardous. Material safety data sheets provide very important information that could assist in the case of an emergency, such as how to clean up large spills, treat accidental poisonings, as well as how to store products properly, how to prevent them from entering the body, warning signs of product overexposure and safe handling techniques.

EducationRegulations alone are not effective enough to stop this problem as there are still suppliers out there who are supplying nail technicians with cheap, unlabeled monomer.

Nail professionals must be properly educated as to why MMA monomer shouldn’t be used, and why proper procedures for nail plate preparation are vital to ensuring the longevity

of a nail enhancement. Product control, application, proper maintenance and safe removal are also just as important. Salons often perform unsafe practices, work in unhygienic conditions and don’t attend ongoing education, even if they have changed to non-MMA.

The lack of proper education is probably one of the biggest risks we face in our industry today and I can’t place enough importance on why nail professionals must be well trained with a

MMA Monomers were initially

made up of a chemical known as MMA (Methyl

Methacrylate), but have been banned in the US since the early 1970s. MMA originated in the dental world and was used for nail enhancements due to its ability to bond well to the natural

nail plate. It is an extremely hard polymer structure, but also very brittle

and inflexible, which meant that when the wearer had an accident and broke a

nail, they would suffer severe damage to their nail plate and nail bed because of the

rigidity of the product.

MMA also had adverse effects on nail technicians who used it, such as allergic

skin reactions and respiratory problems. The majority of well-known nail companies no

longer use this ingredient and now use Ethyl Methacrylate, which is far less likely to cause

allergic or adverse reactions. They also develop and design their own blends of monomers and

polymers, creating the latest in cross-linked polymer technology, allowing products to become more and

more advanced in strength, flexibility and toughness.

The professional nail industry has been struggling for some time now to stop the improper use of MMA

monomer in artificial nail enhancements, yet it is still widely used across the world. Once nail professionals


Occasion nails38 Know your nail chemicals

It is of the utmost importance

that nail technicians are well educated, skilled and have a sound knowledge and understanding of the enhancement chemicals

they use.

Monomers were initially made up of a

chemical known as MMA (Methyl Methacrylate), but have been banned in the us since the early

1970s.

reputable company which takes this seriously.

Your clients need to be educated and well informed about MMA and non-MMA. But don’t scare them and tell them anything which is not factual. Any misinformation will only harm the nail industry. The client needs to understand the disadvantages of wearing MMA enhancements.

Avoid any potential problems by using high quality products and proper procedures, and then set a good

realised that MMA monomer products cost up to 75% less than the high quality, legal alternatives, that’s when the problem started. Salons that were using the product started undercutting their services. Because of this, plenty misinformation as to why MMA should not be used spread. Some claims insisted that MMA caused cancer, birth defects or was highly toxic, but none of these claims have ever been proved. MMA is used by doctors internationally and is considered the best and most widely used bone cement in the world, but it is not suited to creating nail enhancements.

Here’s why:

• MMAdoesnotadherewellto the natural nail unless the nail plate is thoroughly etched and buffed. This practice thins and weakens the natural nail and can cause many problems and disorders of the nail.

•MMAenhancementsare extremely difficult to remove. They become brittle and discolour quickly and must be removed every three or four months, increasing the risk of nail damage, especially when removed by prying product from the nail plates, a practice that leaves them overly thin and damaged.

• MMAenhancementsareextremely rigid and difficult to break. An overly thinned natural nail plate often breaks before the MMA enhancement, which may lead to serious nail damage and infection.

example by ensuring your services are safe and sanitary.

If it wasn’t for the knowledge I have gained over the years about product chemistry, I would not have understood the importance of using professional products and how using the incorrect ones can negatively affect you and your clients.

Using your product and chemicals safely and properly is your responsibility and it is your duty to ensure and maintain safe practices, not only for your health and safety but most importantly that of the client, her nails and skin.


39Know your nail chemicals


40

This intriguing leopard eye gel nail art look was created by Akzentz.

1. 2.

3.

4.

5.

The eye ofthe leopard

Fade Gel Play Paint Brown around the outline and lower half of the nail. Cure.

Fade Gel Play Paint Black on the top edge of the nail. Cure.

Begin painting features such as the eye outline, leopard spots, nose outline and mouth with Gel Play Paint Black. Cure.

Apply a thin layer of Gel Play Pain Nude on the entire nail. Cure.

Add detail to the mouth area by highlighting it with more Gel Play Paint Nude; add Gel Play

Glitter Copper Dust to the nose, and add other small details, such as whiskers, spots etc. Cure. Apply Shine-On to the entire nail. Cure.

step by step


41step by step

Add more detail to the pupil and eye using Gel Play Paint Black.

Apply a circular bead

6. 7.

8.

Apply Shine-On over the eye and level into a perfect dome shape. Cure. Cleanse the inhibition layer from the surface of the nail with Prep & Wipe and apply Nail & Cuticle Oil.

9.

Paint the inner eye with Options Gel Art Black – do not use Gel Play

Paint Black as it does not transfer foil well. Double cure – 60 seconds LED/4 minutes UV.

Transfer green or multi-coloured

green/yellow foil by pressing the backside of the foil to the cured gel.

Paint a pointy pupil using Gel Play Paint Black. Cure.

10. 11.

of Gel Play Glitter Me to cover the foil, creating a 3-dimensional eye. Cure.


42 step by step

Midnight rainbowThis colourful and pretty look was created by The Nail House.

Prepare nails as normal. Apply Logik Gel Polish Base Coat and cure. Apply Logik Gel Polish French White and cure. Do not wipe off the sticky residue.

1.

Use a make-up brush coated with Neo Pigments and blend colours on the sticky residue. Blend according to your preference. Apply base coat and cure. Wipe off the sticky residue with alcohol.

2.


43step by step

Midnight rainbow

Use a nail art brush of whichever thickness you like and remove the black from the nail in a series of patterns. Clean your brush with alcohol in between to prevent smudging. Cure once satisfied or wipe off and try again.

Apply top coat and cure. Wipe off sticky residue to finish off.

Apply Logik Gel Polish Black Beauty. Do not cure.

4.

5.

3.


44 step by step

Prepare the nail plate as normal and sanitise the nail plate, removing any debris, dust and

oils. Prepare all 10 nails.

Apply iZ gel over the natural nail and extension using light even strokes to secure the extension. Scoop up a ‘pea size’ amount of iZ Gel and gently offload the gel to centre of the nail. The gel will start to self-level. Using your brush, gently push your gel lightly toward the cuticle, slightly angling the brush to a 90 degree angle as you get closer. Once at the cuticles, lightly pull the brush towards the free edge and rotate the angle to 15 degrees when over the centre of nail plate to create a lovely C-curve shape and add strength. Check and cure. The trick is to use a soft even pressure.

Scoop up a pea size amount of iZ Gel onto the tip of the brush. Gently touch your

brush to the tip of the free edge and with a smooth motion, pull the gel across the free edge and form, connecting from side to side. Drag the gel and create the desired length. Cure the gel under a LED lamp (10 seconds) or UV lamp (60 seconds).

3.

1.

4.

2.Apply your sculpture form snuggly under the free edge of the

nail and secure the tabs. It is recommended that you sculpt 1-2 nails at a time for best results.

The negative space maniThis gel sculpture with negative space mani was created by iZ Beauty of London.


45step by step

Remove the form and cut the gel to the client’s desired length and shape.

5.

6. 7.File or buff any lumps or bumps if needed. It’s important to have a smooth

surface prior to applying decals.

Select the desired look by holding the decal sheet over the nail

plate to size the decal to the nail.

Using tweezers, gently peel off the dual smile line decal and place on the nail. Pick

up the cuticle decal and put in place. Remove any air bubbles to ensure decals are smooth.

8.Seal the deal with iZ Gel to ensure the nail art lasts for

weeks. If needed, iZ gel can be used to build to ensure the perfect C-curve.

9.

Cure the gel under LED (10 seconds) or UV Lamp (60 seconds) and remove sticky residue once cured. Nail varnish

top coat is optional. Products used: iZ Beauty of London LED/UV Gel, iZ Beauty of London Mini LED Lamp, Application Brush (Filbert #6) and iZ Beauty of London Power Oval Deco iT Decals.

10.

2003 Nail comp

Katia with rick and Fred slack of Nsi

Katia with Fred slack and salon owner, denise Wright


46 Q & a

In this issue of nail File, we put the spotlight on Katia Da silva, an award-winning south African nail technician and nsI master educator.

How did your love of nails develop?My mom has had a nail and beauty salon since I was about five years old, and I would often take her acrylic brush and products off her table and hide under the beauty treatment bed to do my nails. Let’s just say that my mom was not too charmed at finding her nail

brush all ruined and hard with excess products!

For years after that I begged to do a course in nails, but my mom felt that I was too young until I turned 16.

How long have you been in the industry?I have been a trained nail technician since December 1996, which makes it almost 19 years now.

Top Tech Talk

V


47Q & a

Where did you train?I trained with the original Dream Nails Training School of that era, with Beverly Kriek.

How did your career in nails evolve?Originally my nail hobby was meant to be a ‘back up’ plan for extra money whilst I was at school and even until I finished matric and studied further. It was a far better source of income than waitressing or retail, which most of my friends where doing at the time.

I thoroughly enjoyed partaking in nail competitions from an early stage of my career, however I never placed anywhere in four years of participating until I took third place in 2002. At the time I was more excited than the actual winner of the competition. After that, I started becoming more and more interested in

nails and involved in my work. Clients noticed my enthusiasm, which made it easier for me to retain my client base and made me more aware of how to care for them as ‘my’ clients.

The Dream Nails and Beauty head office needed a part-time trainer and was prepared to invest time in me as a secondary trainer, a position that I gratefully accepted. After a period of about 18 months, I was at a crossroads – either to pursue a career in my field of tertiary education, or to accept a full-time position as a trainer for NSI. At the age of 23 and newly married, I accepted the training position and my journey started.

I believe you have won multiple awards at competitions – please list some of them.Beauty Africa: 2002 - 3rd Place (Acrylic Sculpture); 2003 - 1st Place Acrylic Sculpture, 3rd Place Acrylic Tip Overlay & Overall Winner; 2006 - 1st Place Acrylic SculptureProfessional Beauty: 2006 - 2nd Place Acrylic Sculpture; 2013 - 1st Place Custom Colour; 2014


48 Q & a

show, as well as to work side by side with world-renowned technicians such as Denise Wright from the UK and Jana Warnke from the USA.

Please describe your perfect set of nails, in terms of shape, colour, etc.If I had to choose, my favourite set would be Russian almond-shaped with a variety of colour, glitter, 3D elements, hand painting and gems. A little bit of everything.

However, a set of nails is only perfect in the eyes of the client. If my client looks at her nails says; ‘I love these Kats – they are my favourite’, then my job has been accomplished, and I’m left with a warm fuzzy feeling in my heart.

- 1st Place Sculpting Masters & Overall WinnerNSI Educators: 2010 - NSI Experts Educators (South Africa); 2013 - NSI Masters Educators (Thailand); 2014 - NSI Top Acrylic & Gel Nail Artist (NSI University, USA)

When did you first come across NSI and what attracted you to the brand?NSI was the product range that I was trained in. Subsequently, while working in a store, I worked with many different types of product ranges and brands. What kept me coming back to NSI for all these years was the fact that it is user-friendly, longer-lasting and durable for my clients. Today NSI has become part of my ‘family’.

As someone who is passionate about education, where do you think nail education is headed in South Africa?At this stage nail education in South Africa is based on basic skills and product conversions

only. However, the nail industry is moving fast, with new trends and artistic skills emerging all the time. It is therefore important (and the educator’s responsibility) to keep students up to date with the trends. Nails have become a form of ‘artistic expression’ and as an educator I would like to be part of that fundamental development for our successful nail technicians.

I believe you have just returned from an exciting overseas trip?NSI USA invited me to attend the Premiere Orlando Show in Florida and work at the demo stations. My responsibility was to demonstrate our new soak-off gel range, artistic techniques in hand painting, 3D acrylics, acrylic encapsulating, and sculpting in gel and acrylic.

The response was overwhelming. I was able to show techniques to fellow technicians as well as learn a few more tricks. I am extremely grateful for the opportunity to work at the

What is the single most important thing

that you tell your students?Don’t give up! As hard as it seems in the beginning, the

journey is well worth it. If you continue to persevere, you WILL succeed.

UV/LED LampsON SALE In 100 Minutes

DUOLITE CURING LAMP

The first curing lamp designed to allow you to easily switch from LED or UV light setting in seconds.The only hybrid lamp you need for all types of gels!

WAS R2700 ¥ NOW R1700 SAVE R1000

PURCHASE ONLY ATPRO BEAUTY SHOW!Sunday 11:00 to 11:50 &Monday 11:00 to 11:50

Stand number K19

*For those not in theGauteng Area but wantingto take advantage of the

sale please send your orders to [email protected] from Friday 28 August to Monday

31 August 2015 only.

Don’t miss out!Terms and conditions apply. Only valid for the promotional period or while stocks last.

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