Nail File 4

Issue 4Sept 2015

the realthing

FinalistFrenzy

Top looks from our competition

Maintaining healthy nailsAu natural

Some likeit hotSummer colours

Brand Integrity

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M

Y

CM

MY

CY

CMY

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Nail File Sept Advert.pdf 1 2015/07/03 1:31 PM

What’s inside nail File

4Industry NewsStay in the know

12Ask the ExpertsHow many brands should you have?

18BusinessCountering counterfeit product

24Style savvySummer lovin’

28Nail trendsBy design

30Salon focusSalon achieves tip-top ratings

34Nail trendsTwist on French

36Winning waysShowcase Nail Art Competition

41In the MarketProduct Hub

43Nail healthThe Naked Truth

46Know Your ChemicalsPlaying it safe

48 / 50 / 52Step by StepsUnion Jack ArtGlitter and PowderFunky Fusion

54Top Tech TalkQ&A with Tracey Lee

Nail File Issue 4 September 2015

433418 30

54

Welcome

Publisher Mark Moloney [email protected]

Editor Joanna Sterkowicz [email protected]

Art Director Ursula Wong [email protected]

Technical Consultant Sonette van Rensburg [email protected]

Advertising Sales 011 781 5970

In this issue we are proud to show off the stunning nail art looks that were submitted for the inaugural Nail File Showcase Nail Art Competition. This comprises our Winning Ways section, as, while these are not the winners of the competition per se, they

all have the potential to win. The actual winners will be covered in the next edition of Nail File, which will be bagged with the October/November issue of Professional Beauty.

Competitive spirit aside, we cover a very serious problem in this issue – that of counterfeit products. We’ve long heard about fake designer perfumes and bags, shoes and clothes from knock-off brands, but now we have instances of counterfeit nail products pretending to be authentic professional brands infiltrating the industry. This is theft of intellectual property, plain and simple, not to mention illegal. Nail salons and techs need to play their part in ensuring that this worrying trend is stamped out, the solution being that you only use authentic products, and let suppliers know immediately should you encounter any counterfeit product.

Uppermost in the minds of all nail techs should be the health of their clients’ natural nails. We provide valuable information in this issue on how to keep your clients’ nails healthy, whatever the service you perform.

Joanna Sterkowicz Editor

NAIL FILEA Professional Beauty Supplement Published by T.E. Trade Events 1st Floor, Rapid Blue Building263 Oak Avenue, Ferndale, RandburgPO Box 650291, Benmore, 2010Tel: 011 781 5970 / Fax: 011 781 6079

Additional pics: www. shutterstock.com

To adverTise in Nail File, please call 011 781 5970

To coNTribuTe To ediTorial, contact Joanna

To JoiN The coNversaTioN visit www.probeauty.co.za and follow us on Facebook and Twitter.

NeWSInformation at your fingertips

The ms. franchise is targeted at independent, premium hairdressing salons, and at nail technicians who are

already renting space in a hair salon.“Each ms. glam bar is owned and managed by a qualified glamista – a nail technician who has received intensive, specialist product, treatment and service training in the professional Milk Solutions way. “Our glamistas have the full support of the central ms. team in all matters related to the successful and profitable running of their ms. business. Therefore, their set-up and running costs are low. Furthermore, the ms. brand is supported by a full marketing and promotional plan to

drive take-up and traffic.“We have approached a number of funding outlets and it looks very positive that our glamistas will receive the funds to set themselves properly up as an ms. glam outfit, as we are creating jobs and empowering women,” explains Ellithorne.The first ms. glam nail bar has already opened, at Giovanni

New distributor for IBDThe IBD range of nail products will now be distributed in South Africa by Twincare International. IBD has been an innovator and leader in the gel category for 40 years.

Battista at the Riverside Shopping Centre in Bryanston, Johannesburg.Glamistas work on clients while they are waiting for their hair colour to take. Two glamistas will be placed in bigger salons, so that manis and pedis can be performed simultaneously.Brands found at ms. glam outlets are Gelish, Morgan Taylor, CND Vinylux and Milk Solutions.

ms. nail bar concept launched


4 news

A concession-style nail bar franchise called ms. has been launched by Karen Ellithorne, owner of the Milk Solutions range of professional manicure and pedicure products.

Says Tracey Owgan of Magnetic SA: “On July 6 Natalia trained students and Magnetic clients in nail shapes. She focused on classic short square nails and what is known as French elongation. This is where the nail bed is extended, and, therefore, great for short nail beds and nail biters.

“Natalia also provided tips on product control and how to build up your speed, and covered troubleshooting on tips & forms. The following day students and clients were taught the long square salon nail shape and how to do pipe shaping. In this class

Gritsenko visits Magnetic SAInternational Magnetic trainer, Natalia Gritsenko, also the Magnetic Ambassador in the UK as well as the former USSR countries, recently conducted a series of master classes in South Africa.

participants learnt how to create the perfect C curve without pinching, using our form supports. They learnt how extreme pipe nail shapes have taken Europe by storm. Pipe nails make your nails visibly longer and very elegant.”

All participants in Gritsenko’s classes were presented with an international certificate.

A Train the Trainer course for Qualified Magnetic Trainers and IPDM level 1 & 2 was held from July 8 to 10 to enable trainers to work towards achieving the highest training qualification in South Africa.

Owgan notes that Gritsenko’s first-ever trainer was Mey Liang, founder of Magnetic.

Says Gritsenko: “I love to teach students and see their achievements in their businesses. It makes me happy. I love sharing my experience with beginners and with experienced trainers.”

Tracey owgan, Natalia Gritsenko and Jackie owgan, owner of Magnetic Nail academy


5news

Industry News

LCN was founded by brother and sister team, Michael Kalow and Bettina Hillemacher.

“We are happy to have found so many faithful, loyal and passionate LCN users over the years,” say Kalow and Hillemacher. “It was always our

LCN turns 30

aspiration to offer products according to the latest and best standards.

“From an idea that started in 1985, LCN has grown into an

As part of LCN’s 30th birthday celebrations, the brand has released a luxury collector’s edition called the Grand Jubilee.

internationally renowned brand in just 30 years. It is a brand that belongs to the top companies in this industry.”

Michael Kalow bettina hillemacher


6 news

technology could include fewer steps and a simplified process to creating nail enhancements.

Other experts in the nails market have reported a renewed interest in enhancement services. Georgie Smedley, director of Gelish distributor Nail Harmony, said sales of enhancement products have risen in the last year. “They are making a comeback now,” she added.

Speaking exclusively to Nail File’s sister publication, Professional Beauty UK, Arnold said she predicted that the trend for caring for the natural nail is only going to grow, and as a result the technology in acrylic and gel enhancements will be a key area of focus for manufacturers.

“I think enhancements are going to go through a radical transformation, especially liquid and powder,” she said.

Arnold added that changes to the

A revolution in nail extension technology could be the next big thing to impact the nails market, according to CND creative director Jan Arnold.

Improved enhancements set to shape nail market

Under new distribution: Twincare International 21 Peltier Drive, Sunninghill, Sandton, 2157

Orders: 011 305 1600 | [email protected] www.twincare.co.za

IBD_FP_ Professional Beauty_2015.indd 3 13/08/2015 03:17:21 PM

On the evening of 29 July, Soho NYC Nails | Waxing | Beauty launced its expanded store, situated on the lower level of Sandton City in Johannesburg.

The glitzy event featured a ‘Circus in the City’ theme, with belly dancers, fire eaters and dwarves

providing the entertainment.

Partners in Soho, Getty Gizaw and Martin Duarte, were on hand to greet some 300 guests, many of whom were celebrities.

Soho expands New Calgel distributor

Nadia Erasmus of Nadz Hope Nails, based within the Style on Cue hair salon at the Glengarry Shopping Centre, is the new Calgel distributor for Cape Town.

“I’ve been a Calgel educator for over two years,” says Erasmus. “Distribution is an exciting new venture for me as I’ve never done anything like this before. I will also continue with my Calgel education duties and hope to open a training centre next year.”

Erasmus says that Calgel is a soft-gel system that is ‘extremely nail-friendly’. She continues: “Calgel has been used in the industry for 25 years. No primers or primer gels are required with Calgel and it can easily be soaked off without any damage to the natural nail,” she says.

Martin duarte and Getty Gizaw


8 news

The numbers game


12 ask the experts

V

Sam Biddle is renowned worldwide as a nail technician and educator. She is an international judge and

competition winner and the creative director of Jealous Cow Ltd.

when you’re doing the application day in and day out. However you might prefer using the acrylic from the brand that doesn’t make great gel.

Raising your brand awareness and trying everything available to you makes you a better nail tech. It also means you can provide the correct application for your clients.

YVETTE NELWhen associating with a brand, create the whole look and feel in your salon. This results in a professional environment. If you offer too many brands in your

salon it can easily seem cluttered, unprofessional and might create confusion among your clients.

A few things need to be taken in consideration when deciding on which brand you want to represent in your salon:

Your clients’ needs – what do they expect from you as a nail salon?

•Stronganddurablenailsasanoption;

•Softer,moreflexiblenailsasanoption;

•Colouroptions;

•Retailoptions;

•Manicures;

•Pedicures;

•Nailpolishes;

•Excellentservice.

SAM BIDDLEIf you talk to a brand they will always say salons should only offer one brand, but as a working tech this issue is not always that simple. Not all brands provide the things you need.

Colour choice is the main reason why I see salons and nail techs having two or three different gel polish lines to offer their clients. Also, there are brands like Be Creative, which don’t have a core line, but which offer solutions to nail art that work with brands and products already established, like adding pigments and using the nail art pen over the top of gel polish or acrylic.

The main thing to remember is not to cross over the application procedures, so don’t mix and match and always follow the guidelines of each individual product line. The brands you have in your salon can work for you, in that having a gel line from one brand, which is far better than the gel line from another brand, makes sense

QUESTION: How many different nail brands should I be representing and using in my nail salon?


13ask the experts

Ask the Expert

Your own needs as a nail technician – what do you expect from your supplier?

• Productsofexcellentquality;

• Toolsandequipmentofexcellent quality;

• Excellenttraining;

• After-trainingsupport;

• After-salessupport;

• Excellentservice,withawillingness to go the extra mile;

• Assistancewithpromotions/marketing/client referral.

Find a supplier who meets your needs. A single supplier streamlines your business and, most definitely, simplifies your order process. It allows you to build up a good relationship so that you can have a support system in place.

I don’t believe that it is ideal to offer too many brand options to your clients, as offering several different brands in their complete systems will push your salon costings up tremendously. The fact is that a nail technician will always promote ‘her favourite’ brand to her clients. and some stock will be left unused.


14 ask the experts

Yvette Nel started out in 2002 as a passionate nail technician working

with all nail systems. In 2007 she had a complete career change, from nail tech to sales & area manager for Looking Good LCN. Nel loves sharing her knowledge and expertise with anyone who takes

their business seriously.

Sonette van Rensburg has been in the industry for 26

years and consults with salons and spas and trains salon

professionals in all aspects of nail technology.


15

Clients’ preferencesYou need to also take into consideration what your clients’ preferences are, as they may already be very set in what they use, whether it is a particular nail enhancement brand and system or nail colour. Today’s clients are far more educated about the nail industry than we realise, and know exactly what products are out there and on trend.

Established salons can sometimes benefit from listening to their clients and taking into consideration what they suggest. However, you can also face plenty of challenges because of this, with clients demanding you take on yet another product brand. Be careful not to be bamboozled though; if your client has relevant concerns about what you are using on her, then fair enough, but it could also be a suggestion to buy in the latest colour collections, or take on a trend that is growing in popularity in all salons, in which case it is a case of supply on demand.

ask the experts

variety of different brands and products, or stick to one in particular?

If you are just setting up a salon and are not sure of which brands and products to purchase, I would definitely recommend that you do some research before you invest. You can access information from trade magazines, product websites, Facebook, the internet, blog sites and chat groups to ascertain what salons and professionals are using and why.

Make sure you look at the two different areas of your business for which you are going to require products – professional use and retail. Your retail products should complement your services and provide your clients with good home care and service longevity.

ResearchSetting up a new nail salon and buying professional products to get you started can be a costly exercise. First, establish exactly what your treatment offering is going to be, and select some of the brands you have researched and have found to be the most widely used in professional salons for the specific treatments you will be offering. Also bear in mind that no two people are the same, and what will work for one person may not necessarily work for another.

Before investing a lot of money in any one particular brand, make sure you get some samples of the top ones on your list and try them, not only on yourself, but on your clients too.

SONETTE VAN RENSBURGNowadays there are so many high-quality professional brands and products being introduced into the market, making it difficult to choose which ones are best to use in your nail business, not only for professional use, but for retail too.

Should you be offering services and treatments done with a

V


18

countering counterfeit product

Business


19Business

All salons and nail techs should ensure that they use only authentic professional brands and do not fall prey to fraudulent, cheaper imitations, writes Joanna sterkowicz.

Not only is counterfeiting illegal, it results in the loss of millions of rands for brand owners, their distributors and the

economy in general.

Sparkle Cosmetics, distributor of Morgan Taylor and Gelish, among other well-known brands, first came across counterfeit Gelish in 2011.

“It was at a spa that was part of a very well-known group to which we supplied some product,” explains Sparkle Cosmetics MD, Debbie Kayle. “Unfortunately, it is not easy to find the source of counterfeit product and thus very difficult to stop the importing of fake Gelish product.

“The sad part is that whilst some salon owners are oblivious to the fact that they are buying counterfeit Gelish, some professionals are aware that it is not legitimate product and they still don’t mind using it, as in most instances they get the product for much less, and they can pass it off to their clients as Gelish. In all cases where we find counterfeit Gelish we take legal action immediately.”Kayle stresses that Gelish makes certain commitments to clients. “As the Number 1 brand worldwide your client is expecting the results that Gelish promises. V


20 Business

By using counterfeit Gelish, those results won’t be there. The clients won’t necessarily be aware that the salon is using counterfeit product and when the promises aren’t met due to inferior quality product, Gelish will be blamed and the brand will carry the brunt of the clients’ disappointment.”Sparkle Cosmetics is to send out information regarding how stockists can check if their Gelish products are authentic. Kayle urges salons and nail techs to have integrity. “This applies to buying product, selling product and using product. Remember to respect other people’s brands and businesses with the same respect you would like people to show to yours.”

A ‘blue’ problemDalize Havenga of EBS, distributor of CND, notes that they have had a huge problem with a product called Blue Sky Shellac.

“I’ve had to send out an email to my clients asking them to be aware that Blue Sky Shellac is not the same thing as CND Shellac. So I strongly advise clients not to use Blue Sky Shellac as they will not be giving the correct message to their clients.

“We are aware of a company from Cape Town that is selling Blue Sky Shellac. They operate out of a dingy office along with spare motor parts. This company is selling Blue Sky Shellac using the

same bottles, colour reference codes and names as CND Shellac. They even have the audacity to tell clients that this product is the same as CND and have mentioned my name! Unfortunately, some of my clients have been caught by this, but very quickly reverted back to CND.

“I have tried to take legal action here in South Africa, but it is difficult because the name ‘Shellac’ is actually a name for a varnish. However, there is presently a legal battle pending in the US. We have been told by a very reliable source that this product comes from one of the worst manufacturing companies in China.”

Authentic Gelish

Counterfeit product

V


22

Havenga emphasises that CND Shellac is a premium product at a premium price. “There is nothing like CND Shellac on the market, and clients ask for it by name.”

‘Just like…’Yvette Nel, sales & area manager for Looking Good LCN, notes that she has encountered a problem where other brands tell clients: “We are just like LCN, just cheaper.’

Nel continues: “I think it is important for every brand to create its own identity and selling points and never to ride the wave of another brand.

“As far as counterfeit products are concerned, luckily we have never had any experience of any. I requested input on this matter from the LCN office in Germany and their feedback is that each product has a batch number and article number on it, which is recorded and traceable on their system.”

Petrus Badenhorst of Star Nail Africa and Cuccio Naturalé has also not encountered counterfeit

product.

“Luckily I don’t have such a problem yet. However, I know that it is a problem in

Africa, and in Kenya specifically. Our distributor there has mentioned the

presence of fake Gelish products, which undermine her sales in

Kenya.”

Nail File urges all salons and nail techs to only use authentic

professional products and to contact their suppliers if they come across suspect goods.

Business

w

IBD_FP_ Professional Beautyadvertoriol_2015_for print.indd 1 14/08/2015 11:45:01 AM


24 style savvy

It’s time to pack your swimsuit and escape to an island paradise; you can

almost smell the distinct fragrance of coconut suntan lotion as it fills the air with anticipation. Be a beach goddess and soak up the rays in your beautylicious bikini, with nail tips and toes lavishly polished in sunshine yellow, or contrasting tones of playful peach and courageous coral to complement.

SummerLovin’

Be enticed and inspired by some of the most sizzling summer shades in this fashion focus colour feature. Summer has finally landed on our doorstep, bringing to mind fond memories of the movie Grease and hot summer days filled with the promise of vacation and plenty of fun. Have a blast and do something crazy, meet a boy as cute as can be and have a summer romance!

Look adorable in passionate pink, and, if that’s a bit too hot to handle, then cool down with a light sorbet vanilla ice, or a splash of pale pink lemonade, bubblegum blue or tropical turquoise shades.

Free your mind and enjoy a sunset

Anime-zing Colour

Pop-arazzi Pose

Manga-round with Me

Tokyo á Go Go

Catch the Wind

Dream Catcher

Bohemian Beauty


25style savvy

cruise, or take a carefree stroll along a beautiful moonlit sandy beach. Whatever you decide to do, be sure to look completely irresistible and add some glamour to your fingertips. Show off that pretty little party dress, or say ‘Hello Gorgeous!’ in exotic glittery green.

Don’t forget to coat those tempting tootsies too, some sparkle maybe to match your boogey shoes. Who knows,

with some luck, you may even be swept off your feet, with an invitation to dance the summer night away.

What’s not to love about this fascinating,

vibrant cocktail of the most cheerful

colours that are oh so hot!

Beach Club Babe

Infuse Harvest Trend

Pack Your Ibiza Bikini

La Playa – Here We

Come

He Said ‘Baile

Conmigo’


26

A loose nail is not necessarily fungal infected and usually starts from minor trauma e.g.

injury to a nail; or from jogging; or nail biting; or aggressive manicuring; and also from contact with irritants or excessive exposure to water. (There are exceptions and these might need medical attention, but are rare; and more can be read about this on our very informative website www.loosenails.com (or .co.za)

A nail is loose when it becomes separated from the nail bed although it remains attached around its edges. The first sign of a nail becoming loose is usually a change in its colour from pink to yellow or cream. The nail bed of a separated nail becomes dry andisnolongerflexible,andthiscauses the colour change. (See bottom three photos on opposite page).

If ignored such nails will most likely degenerate to the point where they become a major

Read this. It may change the way you think about ‘loose nails’ and ‘fungal infected nails!’

aesthetic issue. Loose nails are therefore mostly of aesthetic importance and often only the forerunner to fungal infected nails and this can be prevented if addressed in time and correctly.

Nail care therapists are in the front line to make people aware of this and it’s our responsibility towards 1000’s of clients, who might otherwise suffer from fungal infected and degenerated nails, to tell them about Fix-4-Nails®

What is Fix-4-Nails®?A loose nail cannot be glued back onto a dry nail bed. It has to re-grow and this takes time. Oral and other anti-fungal treatments, although effective in obliterating fungi, are mostly not formulated

“help me!” “thank you!”

the road to beautiful nailsDial 0861 9999 07 or visit

The first sign of a nail becoming loose is usually a change in

its colour from pink to yellow or cream.

Is the general conceptionabouT yelloW or uglyNailS always correct?

PromotionPromotion


For more information contact:

Fix-4-Nails®

[email protected] 999 907www.loosenails.com

to promote re-growth of nails; and once a nail is loose, it needs to re-grow together with the nail bed in order to become a new, beautiful nail. For this to happen, favourable under the nail conditions need to exist, such as the nail bed being 1) softandflexibleand 2) fungi-free.

Fix-4-Nails® is a liquid applied under the nail and contains, amongst others, salicylic and benzoic acids, which, in combination not only have known anti-fungal properties, but the salicylic acid, in this concentration, also softens the often accumulated keratin under the nail plate and with it the nail bed, which then regains its flexibility.

Fix-4-Nails® is therefore a unique and essential aid in ‘restoring by re-growth’ of loose and/or degenerated nails.

Because it aids in the protection and maintenance of beautiful nails, we recommend its use for two or three days running, every month, as part of one’s usual nail care routine.

Oh yes, and what’s more, she can use nail polish while using Fix-4-Nails®!!

Fix-4-Nails® is therefore essential in the restoring of loose and/or degenerated

nails..

The first indication of a nail becomingloose, is a change in it’s colour from

pink to cream (see bottom 3 photos)

This may lead to degeneration & fungal infection

Examples of loose nails in various stages of degeneration.

This can happen when a loose nail is ignored.

www.loosenails.com

uniquely aids in restoring,maintaining and protection of

beautiful nails

[email protected]

is distributed through Pharmaciesand Nail Care Clinics in South Africa and

Namibia and online to other parts of the worldContact Willie Fourie cc Tel. +27(0)861 999 907

Fix-4-Nails ®

SPRING DEAL for SalonsPay ONLY R390 for 3 bottles

on all orders placed and delivered in September 2015

This is your chance to try this wonderful product for your clients!

Is the general conceptionabouT yelloW or uglyNailS always correct?

Promotion 27


28 trends

Glitter is currently the most requested nail art design at the Bio Sculpture Gel West

Rand Nail Salon, according to the salon’s Tania Oliver.

“As per client demand, we do Glitter either in a solid effect to cover the entire nail, or we do a blended Glitter effect,” she explains. “We also use lots of different crystals and gem stones for our art designs.

“I’ve noticed that patterns are very popular nail art designs lately. These patterns are done free-hand and include different shapes and designs.”

Oliver comments that ombre and/or colour blending is very popular. “I belong to different groups on

Facebook and there are always tips, or questions, on how to create ombre nails. It really is a very popular and sought-after design.

“I have also ascertained that we’ve done a few matte designs over the past few months.”

Bling-a-lingThe latest nail trends at Midori Salon in Sandton are bling, bling and more bling, according to Midori Salon owner Anisha Patel.

“This includes stones, Swarovski crystals, metallic stones in different colours, diamonds and even charms. Also proving popular is the overlapping of colours. Clients are requesting real attention to detail, which

translates into very intricate work.

“Metallic stripes, nail rings and feathers are other trends that we’re currently doing a lot of. We started doing all these trends about three months ago, and, with a growing clientele interest, we’ve created our own nail art,” comments Patel.

Conservative Sylwia Nourse of Nina Belle Nail Spa in Roodepoort reports

By design Intent on discovering the most

popular nail coatings, looks and embellishments at salons

over the last few months, Joanna Sterkowicz did an

investigative phone around.

Blue nails by Nthabiseng Meleke of Midori Salon

(mixed colour confetti, Gelish glitter, Swarovski crystals and

bow/pearl heart dangle)


29trends

that her salon is ‘not very big on nail art’.

“We occasionally have clients who request nail art, but then it is done free-hand, as in polka dots, or perhaps a glitter gel on the two ring fingers. Or, clients might want a French manicure, but not in traditional white,” she states.

Pinterest-inspiredTina Baloyi of Perfectly Polished in the Valley Shopping Centre in Craighall Park, Johannesburg, reveals that many of the salon’s clients who opt for nail art often bring in pictures they’ve seen on Pinterest and ask the nail tech to replicate the look.

“I would say that the most commonly requested embellishments are diamantés, but we often get requests to do gold or silver on one finger on each hand. In terms of patterns, we’ve found that polka dots and stripes are currently popular.

“We have a lot of clients who

don’t want to try nail art just because they’re worried about the reaction they might get in the workplace,” says Baloyi.

3DClients at Cherrysparks Nail and Beauty Treatments in Witbank currently love 3D acrylic designs, according to owner and ITEC-qualified nail tech, Chantel Smith.

“These designs can either be embedded or created on the surface of the nail coating,” comments Smith. “About 50% of my clients love free-hand nail art. I’ve noticed that full colour nails are very popular with young clients.”

The Image Studio in Umhlanga Ridge, Durban specialises in 3D nail art.

“It’s very popular with our clients and there is no other salon in our area that does 3D in the way we do,” says the salon’s Oma Govender. “We create our own nail art using acrylic powder.

“Gemstones are now fairly outdated, it seems. Clients might request a single gemstone here and there, but it’s certainly not a big trend. We have been doing lots of ‘stamps’ – nail art patterns which are applied to the nail surface with a roller and cured with a lamp.

“There are always some clients who will request glitter, while ombre looks, done within a French manicure, are fairly popular.”

Swarovski Stones by Anna Letsoalo of Midori Salon

Nail Stones by Jerina Makgoba of Midori Salon

Salon achievestip-top ratings

Sorbet Hyde Park Nails, a finalist in the 2015 Professional Beauty Awards, recently scored 100% in a Quality Assurance Review conducted by the Sorbet Group head office, writes Joanna sterkowicz.


30 salon Focus

Whenever you walk past Sorbet Hyde Park Nails, situated on the upper level of the elegant Hyde Park Shopping Centre in

Johannesburg,thereisaflurryofactivity.

This perennially busy salon is owned by Felicia Ntisa, who points out that this is the fourth time that her salon has achieved 100% in the Sorbet Quality Assurance Review process.

Felicia Ntisa and Lindy Sokudela

V


31salon Focus

“In addition, we came first out of Sorbet’s 123 salons in terms of quality assurance,” says Ntisa proudly. “I must credit the positive energy of my staff – they are incredible. Most of the salon’s success is due to teamwork.”

Rudi Rudolph, MD of the Sorbet Group, sent Ntisa this message following the quality assurance result: “This is so magic! Thanks to all for this excellent result. We are so proud of you!”

Brand powerCommenting on why she chose to join a franchise as opposed to opening an independent nail salon,

I must credit the positive energy of my staff – they are incredible.

Most of the salon’s success is due to teamwork.

{ {

The salon’s first-ever client – Beryl Smiedt


32 salon Focus

Ntisa says: “I decided to go the Sorbet route due to the power of the brand and the benefits of being a franchisee. It is a tried and tested formula and I thought it advisable to go this route for a successful business.”

She describes the support the salon receives from the Sorbet Group in terms of finance, technical knowledge, training and staff as ‘unbelievable’.

“There is comfort in knowing that you have someone with you all the time,” she adds. “The Sorbet Group recruits experts

who make sure that the business model is sustainable. They take you through the technical know-how.”

Ntisa, who also owns the Sorbet Nail Salon at the Bryanston Shopping Centre, notes that she does not have a history in beauty. “However, after five years of nail bars I am a ‘Nail Queen’. Just call me ‘Queen Fee’,’’ she says, light-heartedly.

Happy clienteleThe salon has a number of loyal guests, as well as walk-ins, in

particular from the Southern Sun Hyde Park Hotel.

“I’m delighted to say that the salon has built up a very loyal client base since we opened on 23 February 2010,” comments Ntisa.

Since that time, the salon has undergone some refurbishments – the lighting in the retail section was changed to enhance the guest experience and an extra pedi chair has been added, bringing the number of pedicure stations to five.

There are eight nail techs at the salon, which is managed by Hazel Gononda.

A true nail bar, the salon offers only nail services, as in acrylic, gel, manis and pedis. Currently the most popular treatment is a manicure with Gelish application.

Available for retail are OPI Polishes, Morgan Taylor Polishes, Sorbet Polishes, Rapid Lash, Sparkle Mini Gelish, Environ, Sorbet Skin Care and Sorbet Body Range.

According to Ntisa, retail sales account for about 30% of overall business.

Your nails need a break.

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Constant wearing of high heels can lead to fragile, damaged nails. Nuvanail® restores your nails by coat ing and adher ing to the nai l surface, preventing abrasions and forming a breathable protective layer. The result is healthy, blemish-free nails that you can be proud of in just a few weeks.

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UV-

012

Serenus Biotherapeutics (Pty) Ltd. Registration number: 2014/072715/07. Midrand Business Park, Block 4, Lower Ground Floor, 563 Old Pretoria Main Road, Halfway House, Midrand, 1686, Johannesburg, South Africa. Nuvanail® (Poly-ureaurethane, 16 %) Nail Solution. www.serenusbio.com | www.nuvanail.com

GLE 6606 (s&s 5736) Nuvanail Print Resizes Beauty and nail file magazine 171 x 247 Toe.indd 1 2015/07/28 4:33 PMProcess CyanProcess MagentaProcess YellowProcess Black

29 July 2015


34 nail trends

It has been claimed that the French Manicure was in fact created in Paris, France in the 1930s. Rumour has

it that cosmetic giant Max Factor is the one who invented this forever classic trend and that the idea to label it French Manicure was purely for effect and to sound stylish, chic and fashionable.

In the late 1970s Orly founder Jeff Pink created a French Manicure set for home use and has also been credited with branding this ever popular manicure, ‘The French Manicure’.

However, its origins are believed to go much further back than that and that the stylish Parisians were some of the very first to show off this trend, with crisp clean white tips and a nude base.

The term manicure actually comes from the Latin words

manus (hand) and cura (care). Whatever the exact origin of the French Manicure, one thing we know for sure is that no matter where it came from, it is here to stay. This is probably because it’s such a versatile look, always classic, elegant and clean looking. It was really popular with Hollywood actresses in the 1970s, who loved it as it suited their ever-changing schedules on and off screen.

RevivalIn recent years this popular look has undergone a complete revival and can be done in full colour, with combinations ranging from burgundy and blue, to black and white, like the Alternative French Manicure styles we featured in the last issue of Nail File.

This time it’s all about translating your classic French Manicure by using the typical French white, soft pinks, beiges and sheers you usually would, but adding another element and turning it into something unique. You can create the most amazing and interesting variations, placing a more edgy, modern twist on this timeless fingernail classic.

French anglesYour typical French Manicure is usually created with a rounded

Twist onFrenchHave you ever wondered whether the French Manicure is in fact really French and where it actually originated to begin with? Sonette van Rensburg provides some answers.


35nail trends

or oval-shaped smile line over the free edge, however, try to interpret it into something a little different. Stick with a pretty sheer pink or beige as a base and polish the free edge and tip in a different shape, like the look that could be seen at designer Kaelen’s Fall 2015 show. Models showed off their nails in a dusty rose, with chevron patterns in white over the top. This look can be achieved not only in a polish application, but also in gel polish or an enhancement system for a more semi-permanent look. It can be done in a variety of different shapes, from slanted to wavy. And, it can even go from a perfect smile line into a swirl orflowers,and3Dartcanbeadded on top – the possibilities are endless.

Reverse FrenchA growing trend on longer nails is painting and adorning them underneath the free edge with nail art etc. For this look, polish the top of the nail in a sheer colour and then under the free edge use either an opaque white or light pink cream based polish that is slightly brighter and darker than the top. Add a gemstone or two for an extra bit of class.

Short and chicA look that is proving to be very popular lately is the beautifully French Manicured short and chic nails seen on models at the Jenny Packham show. Add some silver stripes or gems along the smile line, for a more modern look.

Colourful yet subtleIf Alternative French done in all sorts of contrasting colours is a little bit too much for you, try a nude or pale pink base with white tips, but frost the edges with a matte gold or silver on the edges.

Subtle techniquesAt the Tadashi Shoji show, a very interesting technique was done using an opaque white polish, which was sponged over the tips and down the sides of the nail, resulting in a beautiful soft, cloudlike look.Pic source: www.advicesisters.com


36 nail Competition

In our call for entry into the two categories that comprise the competition – Photographic Nail Art and Tip Box Nail Art – we asked for

artistic skills and creativity. We certainly got both, as these pages prove.

Look out for the Top 3 in each category, and the nail techs behind them, in the next issue of Nail File.

WiNNiNg WayS – Showcase Nail Art Competition

It’s time to feast your eyes on the dazzling work produced by the finalists in the inaugural edition of Nail File’s very own competition, the Showcase Nail Art Competition.

These pages: Photographic Category

V

RuneBound by Vicky Louw

Sugar and Spice by Xandia Greeff

Cherry Blossom Geisha by Chantel Smith


37nail Competition

WiNNiNg WayS – Showcase Nail Art Competition

The Cover Up by Xandia Greeff

Miniature Men by Maretha Erichsen

Vintage Memories by Tracey Lee

Hope for Peace by Mitsue Kanehara


38 nail Competition

WiNNiNg WayS – Showcase Nail Art CompetitionThis page: Tip Box Category

Save our Rhinos by Hendrica Stuurman

African Beauty by Tracey Owgan

Four Seasons by Charleen Dunkley

Calgel

Calgel FP dir/jan.indd 1 2015/07/23 1:39 PM


40 nail Competition

WiNNiNg WayS – Showcase Nail Art CompetitionThis page: Tip Box Category

Horses by Lourika De KlerkThe Chinese Dragon by Chantel Smith

Game of Thrones by Tracey Owgan

Prod

Our round-up of the latest product launches in the exciting world of nails.

Product Hub

A real handful The Hand & Body Sorbet care series from LCN is suitable for nourishing the skin. Its silky texture provides immediate suppleness to dry and stressed skin. Active ingredients with Care-Boost Factor include Shea butter, panthenol and glycerine, while Vitamin E acts as an antioxidant and contributes towards a smoother skin. 010 593 3293


41in the market

Neon lightsAmplify the intensity withTruGel’s Neon Daze Collection for Summer. Wondernail introduces an electrifying palette of five neon hues and a prismatic topper. Turn up the heat with bonus white-hot nail art pieces. ‘Teal the Beat’ and ‘Glow Crazy’ with this shockingly hypnotic collection. 011 450 0754

Feisty ladyMorgan Taylor’s Fight Like A Lady mini-4 pack will be available during October for Breast Cancer Awareness month. Purchases of the mini-4 pack will help support the fight for breast health and fund research for a cure. Colours are: Sweet Surrender, Sweetest Thing, Lip Service and Prettier in Pink. 011 447 0659

The Chinese Dragon by Chantel Smith

Vital vitaminsThe Bio Sculpture Gel Vitamin Treatment is suitable for all nail types and conditions. A group of vitamins, namely B1, B2, B12, C & P, that are essential to the keratin structure of the nail, were carefully selected to formulate a product that will enhance the overall growth and health of the nail. 051 943 0377


42 in the market

GlitterbugThe North Shore Glitter Collection from Young Nails is an escape into the brightest shades inspired by the sun, sea and island life. Eight irresistible Imagination Art Glitter colours comprise the collection – Dragon Fruit, Hibiscus, Sea Spray, Island Palm, High Tide, Sunset Beach, Waterfall and Surf. 011 393 2791

Evolutionary gelEvogel from Bio Sculpture Gel was inspired by nature and is the healthy alternative for long-lasting, easy on-easy off colour. This medical grade product is infused with Vitamins A & E, with an oxygenating base that allows oxygen into the nail plate. It is cruelty-free and 100% vegan.051 943 0377

Fabulous foilThe BlitzFoil Nail Foil Remover wraps enable you to quickly, simply and effectively remove gels, shellacs, polishes and acrylic from your client’s hands. No prolonged ‘dipping’ in removal liquids or having to create your own cotton and foil wraps. The wraps have a built-in hem for more stability when wrapping the nail.074 227 6210

The sweet lifeFrom Cuccio Naturalé comes the Sweet as Sugar Collection, a selection of charismatic confectionery classics that candy coat your nails. Colours are: Goody Goody Gum Drops; Sugar Daddy; Lemon Drop Me a Line; Grape to See You; Very Sherbet; Sweet Treat; Tutti Frutti and Double Bubble Trouble. 012 751 1207


43nail health

You may wonder why it’s important to know about nail anatomy and how this very important

topic can affect you as a nail professional, your business, the services and treatments you perform and most of all, your clients. Proper professional nail care can improve and maintain the health of the nails and skin. Nail, hand and foot treatments and services can help provide nourishment, hydration and moisture, which helps to keep nails tough and durable and the skin supple and smooth.

The first thing I would like to

clarify is that the natural nail does not breathe – the natural nail plate is non-living and non-breathing, as it is made of keratin. However, many things can still affect it. The nail plate cannot be repaired by anything, nor can it repair itself in the same way as skin does. The only way to get rid of a damaged nail is to wait for the new nail to grow out and replace the damaged nail plate.

There are a number of ways in which the nail plate can become infected or damaged, some of which are caused by mechanical force and incorrect manicuring and enhancement

The Nakedtruth

application techniques. If the nail plate and nail bed are traumatised in any way, it makes them susceptible to different types of diseases and disorders and they may become infected.

The nail bedThis is situated beneath the nail plate and is attached to it with rails and grooves, and plays a very important role in maintaining the health of the natural nail. It is filled with tiny blood vessels that have an important function in supplying nutrients to the nail plate, as well as nerve endings which react when the nail is traumatised.

Preserving the integrity and health of the natural nail should be uppermost in the nail tech’s mind when performing a service on a client, writes sonette van rensburg.

V


44

The living skin tissue that is situated beneath the free edge is known as the hyponychium. This acts as a protection in the same way as the living skin tissue found around the top of the nail plate, called the eponychium. Cleaning under the free edge with sharp edge tools can break or tear the hyponychium, leading to separation of the nail plate, known as onycholysis. This is not a contagious condition however it is an invitation for pathogens and organisms to cause conditions such as bacterial or fungal infections.

Where’s the cuticle?The eponychium is very much alive, yet manicurists still continue to cut the living skin tissue, which they believe to be the cuticle. Damaging the

eponychium or hyponychium can lead to all kinds of conditions so therefore we should avoid practising harsh manicuring techniques or cutting the living skin.

Why cutting the surrounding skin tissue is unsafe:

•Theclientandnailtechniciancan be exposed to some types of blood diseases if the skin is accidently cut, especially if implements are not thoroughly and properly sanitised and sterilised.

•Pathogenscanentertheskin through tiny cuts and abrasions, leading to serious bacterial infections.

•Themoreyoucut,thethickerthe surrounding tissue will become as the skin has a natural self-defence mechanism and will produce scar tissue as a means of protection.

•Itcanleadtopermanentnailplate damage if the matrix is exposed and injured in any way.

The cuticle is misunderstood by almost everyone; during one part of a manicure or nail service we nourish, pamper and soften the cuticle while during another, we strip, cut and remove it to prepare the nail plate for the application of nail polish, a nail coating or nail enhancement. So, which should we be doing, as we can’t do both?

Ways in which the nail plate can be affected and damaged:•Usingharshchemicals

without protecting the nail plate;

•Harshmanicuringtechniques such as:

•Scrapingthenailplatewhen pushing back the cuticles;

•Usingharshfilestofileaway layers of the nail plate;

•Usingimplementsandfiles that have not been properly sanitised.

nail health


45

I believe this confusion is due to the incorrect use of professional nail terminology. With so many different cultures and languages, some of us may use some words differently. All nail professionals should be able to identify the cuticle from the eponychium – they are two different parts of the nail unit.

It is also important to know that the cuticle is made entirely of dead skin. The cuticle is also sometimes referred to as ‘ptergyium’ which is completely incorrect, since that is a medical word for abnormal skin growths.

The cuticle tissue is very sticky and bonds tightly to the growing nail plate, making it difficult to remove. As the natural nail plate grows, a thin layer of skin detaches itself from the underside of the eponychium and hitches a ride on top of the nail plate. The

cuticle can be recognised as a thin layer of colourless tissue which is constantly shedding. This shed skin acts as a barrier to prevent infectious organisms from invading the nail matrix area (birthplace of the nail plate), which can lead to deformity or complete loss of the nail plate.

When a manicure or pedicure is properly performed, the eponychium is softened, moisturised and then very gently pushed back to expose the dead cuticle tissue on the nail plate, which can then be easily removed. Therefore nail professionals should always work very carefully in this area as improperly performed techniques can cause serious problems for clients.

Effective, safe nail and cuticle care can be performed by using the correct products and techniques to remove only the cuticle (non-living tissue)

A client with healthy nails is a happy client who will continue to trust you with her nail services.

To learn more about nail technology and anatomy, I would highly recommend Nail Structure & Product Chemistry (First and Second Editions) by Douglas D. Schoon.

from the nail plate, preserving and nurturing the surrounding living skin tissue.

Using a good quality professional brand and product designed specifically to treat hands, nails and feet goes hand in hand with good quality professional services.

A client with healthy nails is a happy client who will continue to trust you with her nail services.

{ {nail health

Figure 1 Figure 2

It’s not correct to call cuticle tissue “ptergyium,” since that is a medical word for abnormal skin growths stretched into a triangular or wing-like shape. Nail pterygium can occur and may be a seri-ous disorder, but it’s fairly unusual and occurs only under certain circumstances. For example, it is sometimes seen on seriously injured or badly burned fingers. In such cases, the eponychium remains firmly attached to the nail plate and does let go, as it nor-mally would (to make cuticle). The natural growth of the nail plate slowly stretches the eponychium into the classic wing-like shape that shouts out, “Look at me, I’m a pterygium.” One of the most common types of pterygium is found in the eye and is usually

thought to be an inherited disorder or an injury caused by caused by excessive exposure to outdoor elements.

So where is the cuticle? Here are the facts: the cuticle actually comes from the underside of the eponychium, where this living tissue presses against the newly forming nail plate (see figure 1).

Interestingly, the cuticle is one of the stickiest tissues on the entire body. Imagine that! The cuticle tissue is so sticky, it tightly bonds to the freshly created, growing nail plate, making it rather difficult to remove. As the natural nail plate continues to grow, it pulls off a thin layer of skin, detaching it from the underside of the

The cuticle is the dead tissue on the nail plate, not the living tissue that surrounds the nail plate.

A cross-section of an actual human finger nail, showing the cuticle attached to the nail plate and being pulled from the underside of the eponychium.

EXCLUSIVELY AVAILABLE THROUGH

FOR MORE INFORMATION OR TO ORDER PHONE 1300 855 644www.artofbeauty.com.au

QTICA SMART SPA ZOYA HOT LIPS

WWW.GO30NAILS.COM

P R O F E S S I O N A L B E A U T Y 3 1 1

PB_JulAug07p301_331.indd 311 9/7/07 3:31:47 PM

Figure 1 Figure 2

It’s not correct to call cuticle tissue “ptergyium,” since that is a medical word for abnormal skin growths stretched into a triangular or wing-like shape. Nail pterygium can occur and may be a seri-ous disorder, but it’s fairly unusual and occurs only under certain circumstances. For example, it is sometimes seen on seriously injured or badly burned fingers. In such cases, the eponychium remains firmly attached to the nail plate and does let go, as it nor-mally would (to make cuticle). The natural growth of the nail plate slowly stretches the eponychium into the classic wing-like shape that shouts out, “Look at me, I’m a pterygium.” One of the most common types of pterygium is found in the eye and is usually

thought to be an inherited disorder or an injury caused by caused by excessive exposure to outdoor elements.

So where is the cuticle? Here are the facts: the cuticle actually comes from the underside of the eponychium, where this living tissue presses against the newly forming nail plate (see figure 1).

Interestingly, the cuticle is one of the stickiest tissues on the entire body. Imagine that! The cuticle tissue is so sticky, it tightly bonds to the freshly created, growing nail plate, making it rather difficult to remove. As the natural nail plate continues to grow, it pulls off a thin layer of skin, detaching it from the underside of the

The cuticle is the dead tissue on the nail plate, not the living tissue that surrounds the nail plate.

A cross-section of an actual human finger nail, showing the cuticle attached to the nail plate and being pulled from the underside of the eponychium.

EXCLUSIVELY AVAILABLE THROUGH

FOR MORE INFORMATION OR TO ORDER PHONE 1300 855 644www.artofbeauty.com.au

QTICA SMART SPA ZOYA HOT LIPS

WWW.GO30NAILS.COM

P R O F E S S I O N A L B E A U T Y 3 1 1

PB_JulAug07p301_331.indd 311 9/7/07 3:31:47 PM

Figure 1. The cuticle is the dead tissue on the nail plate, not the living tissue that surrounds the nail plate. Figure 2. A cross-section of an actual human finger nail, showing the cuticle attached to the nail-plate and being pulled from the underside of the eponychium.

Pic

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chemicals are dangerous and harmful, but chemicals will only harm you if they are used incorrectly and if you overexpose yourself to them.

Material Safety Data sheetsAll nail enhancement systems and products contain chemicals and any professional product that contains a potentially hazardous substance has Material Safety Data (MSD) sheets. These provide important information about the products and how to deal with chemical fires or cleaning up of spill; they can also assist doctors to treat accidental poisonings.

The ingredients used in nail salon products are safe under normal conditions of use

and the levels of exposure are well below safety limits, as established by the US Occupational Safety and Health Administration (OSHA) and the US Food and Drug Administration (FDA). However, it will all depend on how these products are used and the measures which are taken to ensure not only your health and safety, but also that of the client.

There are various important factors we need to look at, such as Chemophobia – the irrational fear of chemicals. Most people believe that all

Using your products and chemicals safely in the salon is your responsibility and it is your duty to ensure and maintain safe practices, writes sonette van rensburg.

Playing it

Safe

What can you learn from MSDs? • Potentiallyhazardous

ingredients found in each product;

• Properstorageandfireprevention instructions;

• Waystopreventhazardouschemicals from entering the body;

Most people believe that all chemicals are

dangerous and harmful, but chemicals will only

harm you if they are used incorrectly and if you overexpose yourself

to them.


46 Know your chemicals

• Theshortandlong-termhealth effects of overexposure;

• Earlywarningsignsofproduct overexposure;

• Emergencyfirstaidadvice;

• Emergencyphonenumbers;

• Safehandlingtechniques.

Exposure vs overexposureOverexposure is the prolonged and repeated exposure of a substance beyond levels specified as safe by regulatory agencies. Repeated overexposure usually leads to sensitivity, resulting in allergies.

The nail technician is more at risk of developing an allergy than the client, especially when working with chemicals and nail products on a daily basis. Becoming ‘sensitive’ to a product does not happen overnight – it takes time with repeated exposure. A person who is repeatedly exposed to chemicals through prolonged and continuous use will no longer be able to tolerate the substance and will eventually develop a skin irritation, resulting in dermatitis.

Look out for the signs of overexposure such as itching,

flakinessoftheskin,burningsensation or any other signs that you feel are out of the ordinary. Stop any un-safe working habits in their tracks before you develop any kind of skin reactions.

There are three routes of entry through which chemicals can enter your body:

Inhalation – by breathing in mists, vapour or dust. Never judge product safety by odour, you may not be able to smell an odourless product and it could have the same effect as one that has a strong smell if inhaled and if you are overexposed to it.

Absorption – through the skin or broken tissue. Do not overcut cuticles or the client’s living skin tissue as this could lead to exposure to chemicals and harmful pathogens, resulting in an infection.

Ingestion – accidentally consuming your products can happen, especially if you leave open food near to your work area.

Extraction & ventilationImprove your air quality and breathing zone by using proper extraction systems to remove harmful chemical vapours and dust from the air. More information is available from NTA (International Nail Technicians Association) and NMC (Nail Manufacturers Council).

Ventilate the air, don’t circulate the air. Extract the bad air and replace it with fresh, clean air through proper extraction.

Dispose of chemicals correctly. Do not pour them down the drain, rather soak them up with a paper towel and discard in a closed stainless steel bin with a bin liner so that no fumes and vapours are expelled.

Only pour liquid into your dappen dish just prior to application, this will help to prevent you and your client’s from inhaling vapours and fumes for prolonged periods.

With all the advancements in education and technology available today there is no reason why the nail industry should not remain a healthy one. This is a very extensive topic and we have only been able to cover the most important points, so make sure you get nail chemistry wise and contribute to uplifting the standards of our industry.

I would just like to extend a big thank you to Douglas D. Schoon, for his guidance and the valuable

information he has shared with me over the years.


47Know your nail chemicals


48

1.

3.

Draw red lines in the middle of each white block and cure.

Do a full set of nails and leave unfinished in order to apply the gel art on top and seal it in. This set of nails has been done with LCN Bio

Bond (bonding agent) and LCN One Component Resin F Natural Rose. After the product is cured and the nail is filed into the final shape it is ready for the art application.

step by step

2.Using a thin art brush or spot swirl (dotting tool), make a

straight line down the centre of the nail with red and cure.

Using the same tool, draw a horizontal line in the middle with red and cure.

Colour in all the blocks with white.

4.

This patriotic nail art look was created by Franzelle de Villiers.

union Jack art


49

4.Draw blue triangles in between the red lines, making sure you leave white lines in between.

step by step

Products used to create this nail art look: LCN Thermo Gel Blue/Turquoise; LCN Recolution Nail Polish Gel Extra White; and LCN Colour Gel Hot Chili. 5.

Seal nails with sealant and cure, to create an even surface. Wipe off the sticky dispersion and nourish cuticles.

union Jack art


50 step by step

Glitter and powderThis pretty look was created by Calgel.

Load a small amount of clear Calgel and mix it well with Calgel colour powder.1.

Apply this gel mixture onto the cured clear gel base and cure for three minutes.2.

Apply a second coat and cure for three minutes.3.

Load a small amount of clear Calgel and mix it well with the silver shimmer powder.4.


51

Glitter and powderstep by step

Blend the shimmer to form a soft and blurred glitter French line.

Apply a coat of clear gel on the entire nail and cure for 30 seconds.

Apply this gel mixture at the tip of the nail.5.

Wipe off the sticky residue with Calguard, apply Calcrystal to finish.

6.

7.

8.


52 step by step

Choose a variety of Magnetic Acrylic colours, matt and matching glitter colour. Perform a standard prep on the nail plate and then apply tips for acrylic

application. Shape and blend correctly. Apply chosen Magnetic Acrylic colours starting at the free edge, use similar colours, or colours near to each other on the colour wheel, such as neon pink and neon orange. Continue adding colours, such as yellow, while working wet to blend the colours into each other.

Work with colours in the next section of the colour wheel, ie. blues and purples, as you work the product towards the cuticle area. 3&4

1.

2. Apply green matt mixed in with green glitter.

Funky FusionThis colourful design was created by Tracey Owgan of Magnetic Nails.


53step by step

Add yellow and greens to repeat your colours, bringing the nail colour together.

5.

6. 7.File or buff any lumps or bumps if needed. It’s important to have a smooth surface prior to applying decals.

Repeat the design on other nails but changing the placement of

colour slightly.

Seal in colour with a thin layer of Magnetic Clear Acrylic and file nails into shape. Buff with 180grit buffer and buff. 8.Apply one coat Black Gel in the design of your choice and cure for two minutes. Apply foil and then apply Top Gel coat. Cure and remove the dispersion layer.

9.


54 Q & a

In this issue of Nail File, we put the spotlight oninternational award-winning nail technician, Tracey Lee.

Where were you born and brought up?I was born in Johannesburg and brought up in Brackendowns, Alberton.

When you moved to The Netherlands in 2002, what specifically prompted you to take a course in nails? While living in South Africa I worked for Kelly Recruitment Agency. I went on a regular basis to have my nails done at a wonderful salon in Southdale and just felt naked without my nails. When I moved to The Netherlands the price of nail extensions was so expensive compared to South Africa that I initially just couldn’t afford them. To start off with I had to wait for my work permit to be approved, so I wasn’t earning any euros

Top Tech Talk

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55Q & a

either. It was at that stage that I decided to do a nail course so that I would always be able to do my own nails. That’s how it all started.

Why did you choose the Beauty Company for your initial training?Quite a funny story actually; one weekend we went out cycling and we passed the Beauty Company. I said to my partner, ‘I am going to work there one day!’ When I started looking around for nail courses, I remembered the Beauty Company and sent off an enquiry to them and a couple of other

is a fantastic job, challenging and time-consuming though it is. I spend a lot of my time growing and developing our educational systems and structures. In terms of being a nail technician, I make a concerted effort to continue doing nails as I believe it is essential to keep abreast of new techniques and trends and also to understand what they involve.

The nail artist in me is unleashed occasionally during photographic competitions, which gives me the opportunity to put my creativity into action. I love thinking ‘out of the box’ when doing these competitions and especially love seeing the other competitors’ interpretations of the theme. I am at my most relaxed being the nail artist.

nail companies. The Beauty Company was the only one to respond in an enthusiastic way and explained that the language barrier would be no problem as their educators could explain in English. Shortly after my training I joined their team as a national educator. My vision became a reality.

How would you describe yourself – are you primarily an educator, a nail technician or a nail artist, or all three?I love all aspects of nails, however there comes a time in one’s career when one needs to make choices. At this stage my main focus is education. I fulfil the role of Director of Education for International Beauty Partners (Beauty Company/Beauty Factory). This


56

but nothing beats face-to-face training.

This definitely does not faze the techs in South Africa, as I have seen some really creative masterpieces during competitions like Professional Beauty Johannesburg.

What has been your career highlight?As a judge – being asked to judge in the 2014 World Championships in Dusseldorf.

As a competitor – each and every competition teaches me something new.

As an educator – watching my student take first place in the national championship. There is no bigger compliment for an educator/coach than seeing their student succeed.

It may sound corny to quote Oprah Winfrey but it’s so true – ‘If you love your job, it’s like you never need to work a day in your life again’.

As an educator, what is the single most important thing you teach your students?Never stop learning! We are working in such a dynamic industry. There are new techniques being developed nationally and internationally on a regular basis and I encourage the students to continue to perfect their salon nails but also to look around and see which techniques appeal to them and then learn those. Learning new techniques offers the nail tech the opportunity to stand out from the rest, and, in an increasingly saturated market, still be able to attract new clients.

Do you find that whenever you train, you yourself perhaps learn something new from your students?Definitely! This may be in the form of a new idea for a design,

a new combination of colours or a different way of achieving the same result. The latter definitely helps you to develop as an educator, as it teaches you new ways to show and explain to students who may be having difficulty with a specific technique. As I said earlier, never stop learning.

How would you say the overseas industry differs from the South African industry?The biggest ‘pro’ to being in the industry in Europe is that everything and everyone is within a stone’s throw from one another. This gives nail techs the opportunity to travel short distances to attend courses from educators in other countries.

My opinion about the South African market (from having spoken to some of the local techs) is that they miss out on a lot of the developments and techniques first-hand. Much can be found on the internet and via social media,

CREDITS FOR PICS:

Bowling/Caps: Photographer – Get in the Picture

Abs/Air of Ascot/Jewellery Shop Window/Pirate/Summer Toes: Photographer – Henry Sep

Q & a

Nail File 4

Documents

Transcript of Nail File 4