Mystery Mountain and Zobels Point-11116-Track Notes Mounta… · 1 Walk: Wollemi National Park:...

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1 Walk: Wollemi National Park: Mystery Mountain and Zobels Point Leader: Yuri Bolotin Maps, etc: Ben Bullen, Mount Morgan. GPS Setting WGS84. Description: From the old Newnes Hotel cross the Wolgan River and ascend Mystery Mountain. Descend the first line of cliffs and then walk under the cliffs to about GR 438 245, where there is a slot that enables an ascent to the top of the Mystery Mountain Plateau. Then walk towards the top of Zobels Gully. Descend this gully exiting at the site of the former Constance railway workshops. Follow the alignment north to the ford crossing point of the Wolgan River. Return to the Old Newnes Hotel. About 12km. Scrambling and exposure. Rating: 5M. M233E Gear Issues: 2 litres of water, GPS, PLB, appropriate head and footwear, electrolytes, maps, compass, tape (leader only). Change of gear for afterwards. Date walked: 11 November 2016. The Party: Yuri Bolotin (leader), Brian Fox, Sue Pedley, Hao Nguyen, Nicola Le Couteur, Irene Kay, Merridy Cairn- Duff, Linda Eggington, Anna Ossig-Bonanno, Daryl Watson, Keith Maxwell, Renata Buziak (guest), Chris Brown (guest) = 13 The Weather: A warm, sunny late spring’s day. Cloudless sky in the morning and about ½ cover at lunch time. A cool breeze most of the day, especially on cliff tops. Temperature range 16 to 26 degrees C. Existing names in the area Mystery Mountain Is located to the east and directly opposite the veranda of the old Newnes Hotel, and the summit is 340m above the Wolgan River. The mountain is part of what is called Island Mountain. See Background Notes below about the origins of the name. Zobels Gully Is about 1.2km long and flows into Wolgan River approximately 3km south, south east of Newnes. Its upper reaches flow through part of Constance Gorge. Martin Francis Zobel (1861-1935) married Sarah Jane Simpson (1876-1961) in 1899. They lived at Sunny Corner (near Bathurst), Mount Victoria, and Newnes, and later in life moved to Ashfield (Sydney). Martin was a geologist and miner. The Certificate of Title records his purchase of Lot 22, Section 33 within the Village of Newnes in 1909. This title records his occupation as Mine Manager. Lot 21 was purchased in his wife's name. One of the unformed roads in village of Newnes was named Zobel Street. Plan of Portion 2, Mineral Lease 12, Parish of Glen Alice and

Transcript of Mystery Mountain and Zobels Point-11116-Track Notes Mounta… · 1 Walk: Wollemi National Park:...

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Walk:

Wollemi National Park: Mystery Mountain and Zobels Point

Leader: Yuri Bolotin

Maps, etc: Ben Bullen, Mount Morgan. GPS Setting WGS84.

Description: From the old Newnes Hotel cross the Wolgan River and ascend Mystery Mountain. Descend the first line of

cliffs and then walk under the cliffs to about GR 438 245, where there is a slot that enables an ascent to the

top of the Mystery Mountain Plateau. Then walk towards the top of Zobels Gully. Descend this gully exiting

at the site of the former Constance railway workshops. Follow the alignment north to the ford crossing point

of the Wolgan River. Return to the Old Newnes Hotel. About 12km. Scrambling and exposure.

Rating: 5M. M233E

Gear Issues: 2 litres of water, GPS, PLB, appropriate head and footwear, electrolytes, maps, compass, tape (leader only).

Change of gear for afterwards.

Date walked: 11 November 2016.

The Party: Yuri Bolotin (leader), Brian Fox, Sue Pedley, Hao Nguyen, Nicola Le Couteur, Irene Kay, Merridy Cairn-

Duff, Linda Eggington, Anna Ossig-Bonanno, Daryl Watson, Keith Maxwell, Renata Buziak (guest), Chris

Brown (guest) = 13

The Weather: A warm, sunny late spring’s day. Cloudless sky in the morning and about ½ cover at lunch time. A cool

breeze most of the day, especially on cliff tops. Temperature range 16 to 26 degrees C.

Existing names in the area Mystery Mountain

Is located to the east and directly opposite the veranda of the old Newnes Hotel, and the summit is 340m

above the Wolgan River. The mountain is part of what is called Island Mountain. See Background Notes

below about the origins of the name.

Zobels Gully

Is about 1.2km long and flows into Wolgan River approximately 3km south, south east of Newnes. Its upper

reaches flow through part of Constance Gorge. Martin Francis Zobel (1861-1935) married Sarah Jane

Simpson (1876-1961) in 1899. They lived at Sunny Corner (near Bathurst), Mount Victoria, and Newnes,

and later in life moved to Ashfield (Sydney). Martin was a geologist and miner. The Certificate of Title

records his purchase of Lot 22, Section 33 within the Village of Newnes in 1909. This title records his

occupation as Mine Manager. Lot 21 was purchased in his wife's name. One of the unformed roads in

village of Newnes was named Zobel Street. Plan of Portion 2, Mineral Lease 12, Parish of Glen Alice and

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Gindantherie, records, "Martin Zobel, Agent for Commonwealth Oil Corporation Ltd 12th July 1907." Ref:

NSW BDMs. Rego. No. 9008/1899. Vol. 2118; Fol. 211. Funeral Notice, SMH, 4th April 1935, p. 9.

Zobels Spur

Is 700m in length and has a narrowing spur line. It is located on the northern side of Zobels Gully and above

the Wolgan River. Open woodland is replaced by a pagoda studded spur, giving extensive views and having

Zobels Point at its southernmost extremity. Name coined by Brian Fox on a Bush Club walk, 6th November

2011.

Zobels Point

Is the southernmost extremity of Zobels Spur. Located above the northern side of Zobels Gully and directly

opposite Constance Point. Extensive views up the Wolgan Valley towards Donkey Mountain. Name coined

by Michael Keats on a Bush Club walk, 6th November 2011.

Background Notes

On the origin of the Mystery Mountain name, Allan Watson of the Newnes Hotel explains, "When you sit

on the hotel veranda and ask, I wonder what it is like up there? Since there is no intention of actually going

to find out, the answer is, a mystery." Allan is not sure how the name came about, but it was so called prior

to the 1950s. Ref: Interview with Dick Bird, 29th January 2010, who recalls his father Jim called it Mystery

Mountain, because in the 1940s, three sovereigns were found at the base of the mountain. A third suggestion

comes from Thomas Ebersoll, owner of the former Newnes Hotel site, who says the name is a corruption of

Misty Mountain, because for many months of the year in the early mornings the mountain is shrouded in

mist. A fourth explanation comes from a previous resident of the valley who also recalled Jim Bird telling

him that a group of people went up the mountain but one of the group never came back. Ref: Oral history

Bruce Tweedie, 2nd May 2016.

Thrown into the shared information by Thomas was the fact that boxer Jimmy Carruthers holds the record

for climbing Mystery Mountain in 22 minutes. He used Mystery Mountain as a fitness training site.

Carruthers was related to one of the Newnes Hotel Licencees.

From an examination of the David Noble sketch map (1978) Island Mountain is shown as the whole of the

high ridge area proscribed by the loop in the Wolgan River and Deanes Creek – a very large area. Noble

shows Mystery Mountain as being confined to the small area on the far northwest corner and separated from

Island Mountain by a deep defile.

Track Notes

We drove to Newnes, then continued through to the ford and across the Wolgan River and parked our cars

nearby at GR 4236 2567, 526m. After a short briefing, at 0923, the walk commenced by proceeding south

on the road for 30m or so, where a large cairn indicates the start of the track to Mystery Mountain.

There is no time or space here for any gentle warm up – almost immediately we were following the steep

grade of the track upwards. You know the feeling – your heart rate accelerates, the breathing quickens and

becomes more irregular, and the backpack that you were not even aware you had on your shoulders

suddenly feels like a large load. After a while, it all settles down into a steady rhythm.

The track climbs relentlessly through an open forest with very little undergrowth, and at first, there is not

much to be seen around to take your thoughts off the strain of the steep ascent. We had several brief rests on

the way up, and during these moments, Brian entertained us with the stories about Mystery Mountain. This

helped lighten up our spirits, if not our loads.

In the first part of the climb, the track follows the nose of the spur, then swings to the southern side; this

happens as the path crosses the only relatively flat area of the ascent. A few metres off the trail, on the right

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hand side, we examined a small cave, with enough space inside for one person (maybe, for two very friendly

people). At 0951, we reached the bottom of the lower cliff line, GR 4281 2544, 697m, where we had a quick

stop.

The track now made its way through the cliff line, bringing us face to face with aromatic Prostanthera hindii

bushes, covered in dark blue-purple flowers. It is not a technical climb, but a fun one. Although the trail is

easy to follow, the cliffs are marked with white paint in many places, which was upsetting to see for me, as

it creates visual pollution in a place that is otherwise feels beautiful and unspoilt.

At 1000, GR 4288 2545, 756m, we had another drink stop in a place where the lower cliff line subsides and

the upper cliff line begins. We would come down to this level after visiting the top of the mountain. On the

next, and last, section of the climb, the views start to open up – a precursor of even greater pleasures to come

very soon, once we had reached the top. The pace of our steps accelerated.

In the last section, the track goes through a steep narrow crack and emerges on a small saddle. From here,

you can continue left or right towards one of the several pagoda tops of Mystery Mountain. We turned left

(north), coming out on a wide rocky platform with incredible views in all directions. This was our base for

morning tea and brief exploration of the area, GR 4297 2550, 824m, at 1015. This spot is about 20m below

the higher southern pagodas.

Views are the main reason many people climb Mystery Mountain, so I first of all went straight to the edge of

the northern pagoda summit. Now that we have done so much extensive exploration in this area, I can say

that literally every single spot my eyes fell on, whilst I was standing on that summit, reminded me of an

amazing experience and adventure we had had there. It is impossible to list here all the features without

filling up many pages, so I will just mention a few main ones. To the east, Petries Gully, Pagoda Lookout,

Galaxies Ledge; to the north, Old Baldy and Skywalker Traverse, then moving west, Mount Tricky,

Cathedral Canyon, Newnes Campground, Little Capertee Creek, Old Newnes Hotel and cottages clearly

visible right underneath us, as was Daves Pass behind the hotel. We then descended back down to the saddle

and scrambled up a couple of the southern pagodas, which offered more fantastic views, towards the south

west, of Capertee Creek, Eldorado Traverse, Newnes Balcony, Breakaway Point; and southwards, of the

entire Koopartoo Mesa.

View north west from the top of Mystery Mountain. Old Baldy and Skywalker Traverse can be seen directly opposite.

Photo: Yuri Bolotin

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Old Newnes Hotel from the top of Mystery Mountain. Photo: Yuri Bolotin

Renata and Sue at our morning tea spot on top of Mystery Mountain. Photo: Irene Kay

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The saddle and the areas at the foot of the pagodas had dozens of flowering Wedding Bushes, Ricinocarpos

pinifolius, thickly covered with glorious white and yellow flowers.

Wedding Bushes, Ricinocarpos pinifolius. Photo: Yuri Bolotin

But the best experience of this morning’s exploration was the sight of a 1.5m long Goanna sunning itself on

top of the highest pagoda, with the spectacular view of the Wolgan Valley behind it. The Goanna must have

been enjoying the sweeping panorama so much that it paid little attention to our presence and allowed itself

to be photographed for a good ten minutes, until I remembered that Mystery Mountain was only our first

destination for today, so we must head back to the northern pagoda, our morning tea base, collect the rest of

the troops and march on to other exciting sights on the agenda.

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Goanna, with a view, on top of Mystery Mountain. Photo: Yuri Bolotin

Top of Mystery Mountain. It does not get much better, for a Goanna or a bushwalker alike. Photo: Yuri Bolotin

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Anna (aka as go-Anna), Yuri and Go-anna on top of Mystery Mountain. Photo: Yuri Bolotin

Linda and the Lizard. Photo: Yuri Bolotin

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At 1040, we all moved down the track leading back to the Old Newnes Hotel for a while and then, with

some effort, located a ledge between the upper and the lower cliff lines, GR 4291 2542, 770m, at 1050. The

sandstone walls above us were 50-70m high. The ledge maintains a very consistent level and runs in a

southeasterly direction for a long while, which kept us in a very pleasant shade. It is a stunningly beautiful

traverse, consisting of areas of dense but easy to navigate bush, decorated with a profusion of wildflowers,

and, at regular intervals - every hundred metres or so - spectacular overhangs, 50-100m long, with deeply

eroded orange, grey and brown walls adorned in their lower parts with bright green ferns, mostly Coral

Ferns, Gleichenia dicarpa. The floors of the overhangs are lined with broken sculptural rock fragments of

different colours, shapes and sizes. In many places, we observed with awe and wonder millions of water

droplets gracefully floating in the breeze as they slow come down in a fine spray from the high cliffs above.

Merridy, Brian and Nicola on the traverse. Photo: Yuri Bolotin

In one of the first overhangs on our way, GR 4302 2534, 769m, at 1059, we came upon a small hollowed out

rock with 4-5 windows in it. Several people crawled inside and poked their heads out, to the delight of the

photographers standing on the outside.

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Irene and Linda in a cubby house for adults. Photo: Brian Fox

Some of the overhangs we passed through have very crumbly walls and piles of relatively recent fragments

spread around on the floor, indicating rock falls taking place here some not so distant time ago. These

fragments were interesting to look at, but needed care and a light touch to negotiate our way around them.

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Anna, Hao and Sue on the traverse. Photo: Yuri Bolotin

Are Nicola and Chris marveling at the miracles of nature, or at how Brian got there? Photo: Yuri Bolotin

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At 1128, GR 4344 2508, 775m, we saw pieces of chalk, brushes and other rock climbing implements that

were hanging on the rock wall. This might explain a faint track that we had been noticing on our way here.

The smooth orange rock above was about 50m high and curved inward. Even the ablest of us, like Brian,

shook their heads in disbelief when ways of getting up these walls were being discussed. A little further, we

crossed a delightful thin waterfall in a gully full of Sticherus sp. and Soft Ferns. At 1136, GR 4355 2508,

772m, the overhang has two levels – the top one, about 10 metres higher than the bottom one, is only about

one metre wide and lined with crumbly rocks that could easily slide underfoot. We took the bottom level –

better be safe than sorry, especially because we had a large size group today.

At about GR 4361 2502, 784m, at 1142, the ledge turns south and rises a little bit. We were now walking

partially in the sun, but still felt very comfortable. The beautiful Ricinocarpos pinifolius bushes re-appeared

at this time, taking advantage of a sunnier aspect, as did numerous Leptospermum macrocarpum shrubs that

were graced with large white-pink-and green flowers; aromatic Prostanthera hindii plants were frequently

observed near the rock walls; and there were many Parrot-pea, Dillwynia acicularis bushes, which still had

some yellow and red flowers, although they were past their prime time.

At 1211, GR 4373 2457, 784m, we walked in a particularly pretty grotto, with a running waterfall and high

walls draped in hanging ferns of all shades of green.

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Nicola and Chris in the grotto. Photo: Yuri Bolotin

I had done this walk once before and knew I needed now to be on the lookout for the slot that would take us

above the cliff line. I remembered a large gum tree that grew at the very beginning of the ramp going up. At

1218, GR 4370 2446, 791m, we were in front of the tree and the slot. The climb is not particularly hard,

although it does have one awkward spot, where a tiny ledge with a significant exposure needs to be walked

for a couple of metres. Luckily, there are plenty of handholds in the rock to secure your progress. The slot

terminates at a lookout platform, with stunning views back north towards the cliff line; the nearest to us 50m

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long section is a nature’s masterpiece consisting of hundreds of almost parallel horizontal lines of ironstone

interspersed with thin layers of sandstone.

Merridy in front of the incredible layered wall. Photo: Yuri Bolotin

There was still a little bit of easy pagoda climbing to do in order to gain the top of the cliff line. That was

accomplished by 1235, GR 4371 2437, 837m, when we emerged at the top of one of the pagodas situated

right at the edge of the valley. A more scenic spot for our lunch would be very hard to find. A few small

trees were giving shade from the now strong sun, and a cool breeze helped to keep the body temperature

down whilst we ate and rested. Did I mention the view? It was magnificent – north towards the high cliffs of

the section we had just traversed and then all the way back to Mystery Mountain and Old Newnes hotel; and

south to Minotaur Point and the striking pinnacles of Minotaur Watch.

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Daryl enjoying the view at lunch. Photo: Irene Kay

Keith and Linda on the pagoda at lunch. Photo: Irene Kay

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At 1257, we finished lunch and proceeded to climb steadily in a southerly direction for a couple of hundred

metres, then turned east, still ascending through a dissected area of multiple small gullies and pagodas,

towards Zobels Spur that would give us access to our next destination, Zobels Point. Along the way, in

between pagodas, there was a fair amount of dense scrub; on the positive side, we observed many beautiful

wildflowers, including white Leptospermum sp., yellow Hibbertia sp., Pink Spider Flowers, Grevillea

sericea ssp. sericea, pink Boronia floribunda., yellow Isopogon anethifolius, white Calytrix tetragona, and

yellow Gompholobium grandiflorum.

Rock formation on our way to Zobels Spur. Photo: Yuri Bolotin

At 1323, GR 4402 2424, 888m, we were in the centre of the north to south running ridge (Zobels Spur),

which we needed to follow in order to get to Zobels Point. At this point, we turned south and followed the

spur, which was very scrubby here. Warm temperature and accumulated tiredness were other factors slowing

us down. Along the way, I was telling the people who had not visited Zobels Point before (the majority of

the team) that it would all be worth it in the end. In the meantime, a number of challenges had to be

negotiated, including several big pagodas, 10-20m tall, that required scrambling on and off from.

Finally, at 1350, GR 4396 2376, 851m, we reached Zobels Point. In a day dominated by incredible views,

this one is my favourite. Due to our location, we had an extensive vista right down the stretch of the Wolgan

Valley in a southerly direction. Constance Point, Zobels Gully South leading to Constance Gorge, Minotaur

Point, and Donkey Mountain were all visible. Right underneath us and to the east, enormous eroded cliffs of

Zobels Gully North completed the experience.

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Keith, Yuri, Chris, Anna, Irene, Daryl, Linda and Nicola at Zobels Point. Note Constance Point on the RHS and the Cliffs of Mars

on the LHS. The Zobels Gully- Constance Gorge lies in between. Photo: Brian Fox

Minotaur Point from Zobels Point (zoomed). Photo: Yuri Bolotin

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View from Zobels Point towards Donkey Mountain. Photo: Irene Kay

Keith and Yuri at Zobels Point. Photo: Irene Kay

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At 1358, after lots of photos, it was time to retrace our steps to our previous take off point on the spur, GR

4402 2424, 888m, which was reached at 1424. From here, we proceeded north east. Very soon, the scrub

disappeared and gave way to a very pleasant open forest. At 1429, we were at the cairn located at the head

of Zobels Gully, GR 4423 2444, 875m. The cairn has a dry forked piece of wood wedged in the middle in a

vertical position; in the fork of the stick, we saw the stone Brian put there in May 2014, 2.5 years ago, when

we had been here last. It is incredible that the stick and the stone survived during all this time!

Brian and the rock he left here 2.5 years ago. Photo: Yuri Bolotin

We now began our descent into the beautiful Zobels Gully, one of the many highlights of today’s walk. At

first, the changes in the landscape were subtle – Bracken, Blechnum ferns, Soft Ferns appeared, along with

some wildflowers not seen today, like Tufted Blue Lilly, Thelionema caespitosum. There were several huge

Mountain Blue Gums, Eucalyptus deanei on our way. In this transitional zone, we also enjoyed and

photographed Striolata Orchids on a side of a big boulder.

Soon, the gully took a deep plunge, and we found ourselves in another world – a cool, dark rainforest, under

a thick canopy of Sassafras and Coachwood trees, decorated with Epiphytes; large, intricate nets of Lianas

convert the airspace into a hanging ornament; soft carpet of dry fallen leaves muffled our footsteps. We were

descending steeply at the eastern side of the gorge, its tall walls were covered with soft green mosses.

Dozens of birds were singing us a special welcome to this amazing place.

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Zobels Gully. Photo: Brian Fox

At 1448, GR 4420 2418, 824m, we reached a large overhang with a permanent spring. I had been here half a

dozen times, and the spring always has water in it. I lay on the moist ground and had a good drink; the water

was so cool and incredibly tasty! There is a bit more water downhill from the spring; then it seems to go

underground for a while, until a few hundred metres further down, where it re-emerges as a small creek with

constant flow.

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Daryl amongst Lianas in Zobels Gully. Photo: Yuri Bolotin

Renata in Zobels Gully. Photo: Yuri Bolotin

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The descent continued through more delightful rainforest. There are no difficult bits. One of the many

highlights along the way is a big anthill standing near the canyon wall, of a purple-pink colour that I had

never seen anywhere else.

By 1510, GR 4415 2372, 743m, the gorge started to open up, and the rainforest species gave way to bracken

and then Sclerophyll forest with little understorey. We gradually turned west, crossed a small tributary gully,

climbed a short spur and then proceeded down through the flat ground covered in grasses and lots of

Stinging Nettle towards the former Wolgan Valley Railway alignment, which was reached at 1556, GR 4341

2347, 579m.

Hao and Sue walking the Wolgan Railway alignment. Photo: Brian Fox

This was the site of the former Constance railway workshops, where the Shay locomotives were inspected

and serviced. In the last section of the walk, I had to attend to an injured member. Whilst the rest of the

group continued along the railway alignment back to Newnes, as had been planned, we crossed the Wolgan

River at this point and were picked up by Daryl, who went ahead and brought the car over. Therefore, I will

quote about this section from the previous walk report of Michael Keats of 27/01/10,

“We arrived at the former Constance Railway workshop site... Due to the protracted dry spell the three

parallel service pits where the Shay engines would have come for inspection and maintenance were clearly

defined. Looking at old photos of Constance it is easy to picture how the buildings would have looked when

Constance was a busy going concern. After some picture taking we set out to follow the old railway

alignment north to complete the walk. There is a fine example of the boilermaker’s art of hot riveting in a

fabricated steel storm water pipe - definitely worth a photo.

As we walked along the alignment it was food for thought at the incredible effort that was expended in

building the Newnes Junction to Newnes railway. In the section we walked some of the cuttings were over

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7m deep and some of the filled areas even greater in extent. All this was constructed using men, picks and

shovels and wheelbarrows. Just mind blowing.”

The group reached the parked vehicles at 1630, completing this beautiful, iconic walk, full of variety and

interesting sights, and, at the same time, perhaps of an easier grade than most walks of this caliber in the

area.

Trip statistics: total distance walked 12km, total altitude gain 680m.

Walk topographical map. Recorded by Brian Fox and prepared by Yuri Bolotin

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Walk aerial map. Recorded by Brian Fox and prepared by Yuri Bolotin

Table of Times, Locations and Grid References

Time Location Grid Reference Elevation

0923 Started walking GR 4236 2567 526m

0951 Bottom of the first cliff line GR 4281 2544 697m

1000 Top of the first cliff line GR 4288 2545 756m

1015-1040 Morning tea and exploration on top of Mystery

Mountain GR 4297 2550 824m

1050 At traverse ledge GR 4291 2542 770m

1059 Hollow rock GR 4302 2534 769m

1128 Overhang with rock climbing gear GR 4344 2508 775m

1136 Two level overhang GR 4355 2508 772m

1142 Ledge turns south GR 4361 2502 784m

1211 Grotto GR 4373 2457 784m

1218 Slot up GR 4370 2446 791m

1235-1257 Lunch on the pagoda GR 4371 2437 837m

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1323 At Zobels Spur GR 4402 2424 888m

1350-1358 At Zobels Point GR 4396 2376 851m

1424 Back at Zobels Spur GR 4402 2424 888m

1429 Cairn at the head of Zobels Gully GR 4423 2444 875m

1448 Spring in the overhang GR 4420 2418 824m

1510 Gorge opening up GR 4415 2372 743m

1556 At Wolgan Valley Railway Track GR 4341 2347 579m

1630 At the cars GR 4236 2567 526m