Mr. Ige Ramos - Book Design for Food: From Plate to Print

Design for Food: From Plate to Print

D I N E C E B U

IGE RAMOSBook Designer • Food Writer • Visual Artist

ANVIL

THE GOVERNOR-GENERAL’S KITCHEN

Philippine Culinary Vignettesand Period Recipes

1521-1935

Felice Prudente-Sta. Maria


Meet Ah Sing, cook of Governor-General William Howard Taft at Malacañang Palace in 1901, and Asing,

cook of Jose Rizal at his Hong Kong home in 1892.

Learn about the manufacture of champagne from a flyer squirreled away by Rizal in his pocket diary, or

make bologna sausage following a handwritten recipe found among his personal papers.

Read about the Monks of the Red Robe, and The Military Order of the Carabao whose members ate

their way through tropical boredom.

Appreciate elaborate Peacetime paper pastillas wrappers and 19th-century hand-carved toothpicks

from private collections never seen before.

Hunt along northwestern Luzon for the kaldero’y kaibaan that provides a never-ending meal.

Compare an 1851 adobo recipe with what one eats today.

Turn a boar’s head into Hure de Sanglier a l’Imperatrice, the decadent Cabeza de Jabali.

Prepare Gateau Sans Rival the way they did in 1932, and Food for the Gods in 1922. Or tamales

according to a recipe from 1834, and lechon sauce from 1790.

Mix over 24 cocktails and temperance drinks from the 1920s and 1930s, including the famous Lintik

which is to Manila what the Sling is to Singapore.

Enjoy the florid poetry of an 1861 Tagalog fiesta invitation card, the silly antics of crockery’s best friend,

Agapito Makapinggan, and the serious efforts to teach good manners through classroom drama.

For the first time see the hand-size, flag-inspired menu card from the famous Malolos Ratification

celebration (perhaps the only one to have survived from the 1898 dinner!), and the original menu card

used at the 1907 crowning of the statue of Our Lady of the Rosary, known popularly as Virgen de la

Naval enshrined today at Sto. Domingo Church in Quezon City.

THE GOVERNOR-GENERAL’S KITCHEN gathers interesting and little-known stories from historical

sources about the Philippine’s culinary culture from 1521 to 1935.Read about the circumnavigation’s

first picnic in the Philippines, efforts to stem hunger in a pioneering Spanish colony, carabao-horn

spoons to maintain quiet during meals of nuns loyal to a vow of silence, banquets and balls of the well-

heeled and the noble, devil’s ice, Christ’s food, seditious plottings at the King’s bakery in Intramuros,

mythical pygmy Dinahon who introduced kalan and palayok, La Cocina Filipina that might be the first

Philippine printed cookbook, early lumpia, the origins of carinderia, and more. THE GOVERNOR-

GENERAL’S KITCHEN is a must-have for all who enjoy cooking, eating, and conversing about food.

Over 130 entries for native spices and flavorings

Over 160 period recipes

Over 200 listed terms for local cooking utensils

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Philippine Culinary V

ignettes and Period Recipes 1521-1935 Felice Prudente-Sta. M

aria

The Governor-General’s Kitchen: Philippine Culinary Vignettes and Period Recipes, 1521-1935

Felice Prudente Sta. MariaAnvil Publishing, 2006

National Book Award for Culinary History Natonal Book Award for Best Design, 2006 Gourmand World Book Award 2007

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George Barbier

Nik Ricio

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fast at six or seven, lunch at noon, afternoon break around four (when government offices closed), dinner between six and seven adjusting officially to a different schedule summertime. The Protes-tant Work Ethic was preached in schools along with the rhyme, “Early to bed and early to rise makes Juan healthy, wealthy and wise”; yet stub-born clans clung to Iberian manners.

Contemporary Filipinos use an international mélange of designations for mealtime. The day begins with what is commonly called , or break-fast; this is followed by a coffee break in offices or a snack at schools; , or lunch occurs midday, mid-afternoon; the evening repast is , dinner (the word no longer being used to mean noon meal) or supper.

the rice reQuirement

Sea-faring Malayan adventurers trickled into Philippine waters continuously over centuries forcing earlier nomadic Negrito settlers upland.

New coastline settlements introduced ingredients to the pre-Spanish diet: rice, sugarcane, coconut, banana, bam-boo, taro, jackfruit, tamarind, , lime, , bottle and sponge gourd, , bittermel-on, lemongrass, garlic and breadfruit. They provided chili-dipping sauces, turmeric-colored coconut milk stews,

vinegar, palm wine and sugary sweets—the food of Lapu-Lapu and other chiefs encountered by the

Magellanic circumnavigation of 1521.Sustenance at the time of the Conquest was

simple, consisting generally of boiled rice, some-times flavored with fish or vegetables and capped by the daily sweetmeat, sugarcane. Moistening rice with a sauce or honey was referred to as . The habit of eating a fruit or sweet on the side, origi-nally to counter unpleasant flavor, was termed . A vegetarian meal lacking rice and fish was referred to as ; to eat rice with broth, or ; and to eat with-out rice, (in Ilocano) and (inMaranaw). An all-rice repast was referred to as Hong Kong governor, Sir John Bowring, in his 1859 book, , characterized the commoner’s meal:

Rice is the ordinary food of the Indians…. The capsicum, or chile, is used for a condiment. They eat three meals a day out of a large dish, helping themselves with their fingers, and sometimes using a plantain for a plate. They also have sauces round the central dish, into which they dip the [cooked rice]. They introduce the thumb first into the mouth and very dexterously employ the fingers to push for-ward the food.

In the Philippines, as in many parts of main-land Asia, the word for “to eat” ( in Tagalog; in Hiligaynon and Cebuano) is very similar to the word for cooked rice ( in Tagalog; in Hiligaynon and Cebuano). In China one does not ask “Have you eaten?” but “Have you had rice?” “” the for-mer query in Tagalog, is indeed similar to “” the latter. Pilipino researchers at the Bureau of Na-

Planting rice .... (Collection of the author)tinim dolor adio el dolore core facing el ing etuer iril nonsed modipis dolut-pat, quatueriusto dipis nos ea feu feugue miniametum dolobor alit adip.

tional Language interviewed in 1984 say there is no linguistic connection between the two Tagalog words. The popular imperative, “” (Eat that), they say, is purely a wrong conjugation of the verb , and should instead be “”.

However, Agustinian priest, Andres Carro, discovered the trend when he prepared his Ilo-kano-Spanish dictionary in 1888: , “to eat”, is also translated as “rice”. Jose Villa Panganiban’s dictionary-thesaurus, begun in 1935 and released in 1972, likewise defines as, first, the staple, and secondly, the verb. While Spanish and English words for mealtime substituted or augmented na-tive nomenclature, never replaced native verbs for “to eat”.

the Silent conQueSt

King Felipe II was reputedly concerned with spreading the Word to Asian Moslemland; he never endeavored a serious culinary conquest. Yet Spain’s profound effect on Island cuisine is an ir-reversible enrichment. If Spain made no concerted effort to evoke a kitchen crusade, Filipinos per-haps sought it out, adapting the strange tastes to suit their preferences. Indo-Malayan savors wed European flavors. Filipinos were ripe for a gusta-tory blossoming.

During Spain’s stay of almost four centuries, there were barely enough foreigners to work a culinary campaign. Ever since the sixteenth cen-tury, Island climate was adjudged fatal to His-panic metabolism. Over twenty years, noted one critic, 15,000 Spaniards arrived in the Philippines; 14,000 of them died and the remainder were of questionable health, humor and sanity! Spaniards remained generally less than one percent of the Archipelago’s entire population.

Although Spanish women were encouraged to join their husbands in the New Colony, there was a dearth of them. Poor Spanish soldiers married common Filipinas. Yet, half-breeds were few. In 1903, there were only 15,419 Filipinos with any Oriental or Occidental blood-ties—about 0.2 per-cent of the entire national sum! How did barely a percent of the population manage to change cook-ing as it did? Especially during Spain’s incum-bency when public education was limited, read-ing matter scarce, inter-island transport compara-tively restricted, and significant official banquets isolated from the masses.

Many Spanish and upper-class homes em-ployed native help—but that meant male domes-tics, since women were encouraged to stay close to home. Servants were the premiere natives to

taste and cook the fare of Spain’s ships, religious orders and army officers. If we are to believe Jose Rizal’s unfinished historical novel on Tagalog no-bility, those who first served the friars were child royalty. Their tutelage was propagandized as a privilege, although, in some ways, it was a hos-tageship (like America’s system in the restless early 1900s), and certainly part of a concerted ef-fort to humble the princes.

When servants returned home, they not only showed off their new wardrobe and fractured Spanish but, most likely, their culinary surprises. Those who could produce foreign fare and His-panized native dishes were adjudged eventually as good cooks—just like Andalucian chefs who

Servant girl. Utat. Reet etuer amet, quamet lorper susci tem vul-lummy nisl exerat. Ed tinim dolor adio el dolore core facing el ing etuer iril utat. Iduis nonsed modipis dolutpat, quatueriusto dipis nos ea feu feugue miniametum dolobor alit adip.

The Governor-General’s Kitchen

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There is No Hunger in Paradise

ooking, according to Bicol legend, was a gift from Dinahon, a pygmy whose name means “wrapped in leaves”. Throughout the country, cooking is a skill that was mythologically awarded by gracious gods simultaneously with their gift of rice culture.

The earliest cooking unit is the open fire. Among Tasaday food gather-ers the term fadaga, “to cook”, is derived from the Manuvu word fadaigan,

to burn. Bicolano, Hiligaynon, Ilocano, Cebuano, Tagalog and Waray share a common word for open fire: dapog. The most primitive cooking mode is to drop a raw object into the flames. Even-tually it is realized that flavors and textures are dependent on the distance ingredients stay from the fire, and on how long they are subjected to heat. Another method is to dig a pit in the ground for a fire and to cook under, in, or above smoldering embers.

Even today, rural cooks in remote areas build their cooking fire amidst a three-stone cir-cle. This trivet is called lila or tungko in Tagalog, taluhong in Bicolano, sig-ang in Hiligaynon, kalseng in Pangasinan, bawangen in Maranaw, sug-ang in Cebuano and Waray, as well as tung-ku in Kapampangan (which it also is in Bahasa and Malaysian). The tungko is the first Philippine stove.

Dinahon’s gift is not simply a talent but a technology. Among the Neolithic inventions ac-credited to this culture hero of the Handiong epic are the kalan stove, tapayan water container, koron jar and paso cooking pot or bowl. Dinahon’s kitchen simultaneously required pottery skills. Not only would his recipients (who lived from 6,000 to 500 B.C. in the Philippines) have practiced swidden agriculture, they additionally cultivated taro and banana, and they domesticated animals as hunting helpers and protein-filler.

It is impossible to determine when Islanders began to value food and its preparation for their spiritual connection; but as with Greek vestal fires, smoke was essential to an early indio’s com-munion with both the good and the malevolent supernatural. Taosog require that visitors to a newborn first tarry near a fire so the smoke will exorcise them; yet a witchdoctor would hang a victim’s clothes in a pot above cooking fires in order to suffocate the enemy. When preparing rit-ual viands, smoke is considered a medium by which offerings transcend to the other dimension.

cooking cornerS

Although pre-Hispanic homes had their cooking fire and cooking area, the concept of a room

chaPTer 2

Heavenly Hearths

were so complimented by Spaniards into the nine-teenth century. (Actually, Andalucians absorbed refined Moorish cooking, baking, as well as sweet-making tastes and techniques, then incorporated them into Iberian cuisine.)

Spain not only introduced Spanish cooking to the Asian zone but New World food plants—, ar-rowroot, , avocado, bilimbi, cacao, , cashew, cas-sava, chayote, , coffee, corn, guava, lima bean, on-ion, papaya, peanut, varieties of chili or capsicum, pineapple, potato, squash, tomato and zapote, to name but a few. What could not be grown was im-ported—olive oil, olives, butter, Edam and Cam-embert cheese, grape wines, wheat flour and, for a time, refined sugar.

As an increasing number of Filipinos sought economic mobility and education in Belgium, England, France, Italy or Spain, Spanish culture, complete in its somewhat Frenchified nineteenth century version, became the standard for social success until the climax of America’s regime.


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strictly for food preparation—a kitchen—has sur-vived among Filipinos through the Spanish word cucina. (In Bahasa, kitchen is dapur, a natural evo-lution from the southeast Asian word for “open fire” and the root of Tagalog’s dapog.)

The native synonym for “cooking space”, re-corded in the 1835 Tagalog vocabulary prepared by Franciscan priest, Domingo de los Santos, is pag-sasaingan (the spot where rice is cooked). But by 1860, kusina, kusinaan and pangusinaan were the common Tagalog designations for kitchen. (Kusi-na derives from the Spanish, which in turn stems from the Latin coquere, “cook”.)

Manila resident Federico Casademunt pro-vides a rare description of an upper class intra-mural cucina. In 1875, Revista Filipina serialized Casademunt’s Filipinos y Filipones, a touching satire starring Agapito “Pitoy” Makapingan. True to his surname—which means “having an affinity with plates,” if not an attraction to them— and the stereotype of native domestics, Pitoy broke fifteen plates, two soup tureens, five glasses and cups in less than six hours on his first job. In addition, he dulled and twisted four knives and six forks! Not to mention his breaking a belljar when he decided to play with the ivory “doll” it encased, not realizing it was an image of baby Jesus worthy of respect. Even Jose Rizal characterized native househelp as tableware’s Enemy Number One.

Yokel Pitoy promptly learned that being civi-lizado entailed gently handling the trappings of

Karuth (detail)

refinement. Fresh from Bulacan at the age of thir-teen, he spent most of his time in Father Toribio’s kitchen in exchange for a chance to learn enough Spanish to get through school.

“A Manila kitchen at four in the afternoon,” Pitoy relates, “is a wasteland: the kalans are dull and overcome by ash; clay pots and metal carajay lay cast on the floor with the rest that contributed to the cooking just a few hours earlier; dogs, cats and rats devour the crumbs and in this way aid with the cleaning while cooks and scullions nap. All is desolation. At most one finds a raw piece of meat or a dead fish thrown on the table hoping to be used quickly in the evening stew—that is if a cat or dog does not gulp it down ahead even with-out condiments.”

It was no wonder that cockroaches confound-ed nineteenth century cooks: servants made pock-et money clandestinely by selling bones and ash which they piled in kitchen corners till a Chinese buyer came a-calling by. The bones became lime for betelnut chewers; ash was recycled for soap, a Chinese-controlled commodity at the time.

Intramural kitchens were then dirty, dark and poorly ventilated. Not all homes, according to Casademunt, had funnels to direct smoke into chimneys thereby causing soot to color entire in-teriors an excellent, permanent black. Peninsular kitchens maintained by the capable women of Castile, Extremedura, Vizcaya, Aragon, Andalucia and Catalunya were renown for their cleanliness; but Manila’s Spanish kitchens developed differ-ently because they were men’s territory, and not even the Spanish machismos’ but the servants’. Lucky were those with a madre de familia to as-sure a semblance of the neat, cozy prototype.

Kitchens became the rendezvous for native proletarians everywhere. Augustinians assigned to provinces complained that parishioners lin-gered and frolicked in the convent cucina where they made it a point not only to break the cura’s crockery, but sample his food. Pitoy enumerates articles from the dispensa and aparador platero that commonly appealed to young helpers: cara-melo, ladyfingers, tortas, ensaimadas—anything fit for the dulcera—as well as moscatel, Pedro Jimenez, cigars and cigarettes.

Although Spanish food became the gauge of good cooking and urban sophistication, the city kitchen was constructed with much of the native provincial in mind. a functional formula

Temperate climates require a central hearth to provide comfort from autumn, winter and spring

In this picture from 1858 by Carl Johann Karuth, depicts a couple enjoying their meal at a low table or dulang.Western level tables and chairs were not yet widespread throughout the Philippines. (Collection: Filipinas Heritage Library)

chill, as well as to offer an accessible cooking area whatever the weather. Equatorial heat and humidity, by contrast, do not warrant the central stove except in mountain areas prone to cold.

Pre-Hispanic meals were prepared at a cook-ing corner furnished with a stove just big enough to prepare a pot of rice; not all viands and fla-vorings required heating to become edible. The inflammable and smoky situation prompted con-struction of a separate building for the hearth. Different regional environments tailored suitable kitchen annexes.

Ceremonial cooking, which occurred on a comparatively grand scale (at a community or tribal rather than family level) usually happened between the time a crop was harvested and a new field planted—in other words during fair or dry weather. Most merry-making was done open-air, except in cases where rites required an altar or throne inside royal residences or public struc-tures. Preparations could be handled outdoors in provisional cooking areas shielded from sun and draft by makeshift grass lean-tos and folding screens. The tungko and kalan were portable and came in sizes small to extra-large allowing an ef-ficient selection for each party.

But Iberian traditions had long adapted to various reasons for cooking, dining and socializ-ing indoors. Filipinos learned to adopt Continen-tal “indoorness” which meant accommodating even ceremonial and large scale cooking. Because the Spanish entertainment and festival calendar was planned according to temperate wheat har-vest seasons, colonial celebrations sometimes occurred during tropical rainy months— forcing preparation indoors or under a makeshift roof.

Spanish colonial architecture introduced a stone ground floor, which not only promul-gated permanence but allowed for furnishings more weighty than what a native house on bam-boo or wooden stilts could warrant. The seven-teenth-century intramural house with living area floored in hard wood retained, however, a bit of indigenous ancestry: it was connected to a bam-boo-floored kitchen by a bamboo bridge resem-bling the batalan. Eventually the batalan was enclosed, until it disappeared altogether.

Over time urban and hacienda kitchens took on a solid stone foundation with a tile or wooden floor. In some structures the new kitchen was a roofed section of the azotea, a solid stone terrace safely away from bedrooms and where the princi-pal water source was placed. In other floor plans the kitchen became a wood or tile-floored, fully-

KITCHEN CHARMS

Filipinos cling to traditions that promise to fend off hunger. At Christian house blessings, new occupants always have a sack of rice, salt, and as much food as possible. The pattern of what to bring when moving was set in pre-Christian days.

The Yakan of Basilan, although Islamized, still hang parapaglelinan charms in the center of a new house on the day of a house blessing: a rice-filled bamboo tube, representing a constant supply of the staple and an abundance of food; a bamboo tube of oil, for a life that runs smoothly; a bamboo tube of kerosene, for light; a small bottle of water blessed by the imam priest, representing life and an abundance of water in the home; a dried katambak fish, because its name means “the piling up of things”; a sulig dried fish, symbolizing growth. In addition, a fire is kept burning in the new kitchen for the first three consecutive days. No one in the family is allowed to give anything away nor ask anything of anyone, although gifts are welcome. All members of the household are expected to remain in the abode and visitors are not allowed to stay for long or sleep overnight.

Newlyweds are still showered with rice grains after Christian nuptials in hope of fertility and plenty. Similarly, ethnic minority communities include a plate of rice set before the couple at a marriage feast for the same reason. In one Mindanao settlement, an egg is believed to insure kindness and goodness, a glass of water for cleanliness and health, and salt for a mild temperament; having these near the newlyweds insures their presence in the kitchen, say old folk.

Filipinos, regardless of religion, are united in their wish for a happy, well-supplied home.


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Heavenly Hearths

for smoking fish and meat; closer to the roof was a place to dry firewood.

The wooden royal torogan, a common facility shared by different families occupying the Maranaw datu’s residence, likewise maintained a separate room at the end of its long rectangular kitchen floor plan. Each family had its own private room where members ate, slept, received guests and wove fabric. Slaves resided near the kitchen or on ground level beneath the palace.

Yakan kitchen Another Mindanao settler group, the Yakan of Basilan, have similar architecture with the main house connected to a smaller structure (which serves as a kitchen) via a bamboo pantan bridge. The kitchen has two doors—one opening up to the bridge, the other to the street with the help of a ladder. Like the main house, the kitchen has a window and a thatch roof. Both stilt-supported buildings and their principal doorways must face sunrise for its promise of life and things to come.

central luzon manor kitchenS

Bulacan kitchen Tagalogs keep a woven bamboo or rattan tray suspended from the ceiling to keep edibles away from rats and cats. The paga is a bamboo storage loft posi-tioned near the ceiling, but which moves down via a pulley. The Central Luzon manor is similar to that of Spanish colo-nial mansions all over the islands. The kitchen is a separate room attached to the dining room by a hallway. Comes-tibles were once stored in a bedroom corner cupboard seen from outside as highly decorated parts of the wall.

Pampanga kitchen The island range with several ka-

lan or tungko permanently installed was a practical solu-tion for rich homes that had to entertain on a grand scale during the town fiesta and Christmas. Large pots were stored on a shelf running the perimeter of the kitchen ceiling when not in use; pot lids lined the walls below window level, held in place by a wooden bracket. Pam-pangans stored food in a wide sala-sala basket suspended from the ceiling.

Native kitchens evolved suitable to the natural clime. The ideal spot was a well-ventilated porch or window area that provided escape for soot and smoke; it was best partially over water, which served as a natural garbage disposal system. The rest of the native home, principally a sleeping shelter, was not necessarily over the water but certainly above the reach of predatory animals and enemy weapons.

Outside the abode many daytime activities took place: from raising pigs and chickens to butchering, and even cooking meals on the bare earth. Only in bad weather was cooking forced upstairs.

The house of stone, introduced during Spanish colonial times, kept living space complete with the kitchen on the second floor. Although the structure was different in appearance from the early nipa house, much of the ancestral mansion was nevertheless a compromise with the tropical environment.

mindanao kitchenS

Manuvu kitchen The Manuvu village in ancient epic, “Tuwaang Attends a Wedding”, has a kitchen apart from the main house. Its fireplace—a burning log—rests on the bare earth where rice and meat stewed wrapped in leaves. Firewood is stored on a rack above the fireplace along with iron pots. Residents preferred to place kitch-ens on a slope that led into the sea, lake or river, for natural waste disposal.

Maranaw commoner’s & sultan’s kitchen An ordinary Maranaw house or walay was also raised off the ground and made of split bamboo, rattan and cogon grass. Its kitchen was situated aback the principal lodging and measured half-a-meter lower than the rest of the abode. The kitchen door was reached from ground level via a retractable bamboo ladder. Above the stone trivet that served as hearth hung a plaited bamboo tapaan container

A KITCHEN PORTFOLIO

northern luzon kitchenS

Ilocano kitchen Many Ilocano houses along the north-western shore consist of only one multi-purpose room. The ideal Ilocano home, however, has several partitions: the kadaklan or main building with its sitting room and sleeping area, the kitchen, and the batalan. The batalan, which bridges kadaklan and kitchen, may be fully or par-tially covered by roofing of one or both of the other rooms; this allows it to serve as a waiting or dining room. Annexed to the kitchen is the roofless bangsalan exten-sion of unsplit bamboo flooring slightly lower than the kitchen; the bangsal holds large earthen water jars for cleaning pots, pans, rice, vegetables and residents, and also serves as a toilet. Ilocanos have a rack for kitchen utensils called galong or bansag (the latter also means a buffet) and the banilag shelf of woven bamboo attached to a tie-beam.

Ivatan kitchen Ivatans of typhoon-plagued Batanes, near the country’s northernmost tip, developed houses lower than those of other provinces, and oriented ac-cording to wind-direction. The typhoon-side wall was windowless, or occasionally fitted with a six-inch high vent. Until the 1700s, Ivatan homes were narrow, low and without interior divisions. Eventually the kitchen became a separate unit to keep smoke at bay. Above the rapuyan stove rested a paya rack on which to hang salted fish and meat, tobacco leaves and kindling. Spanning the distance between eaves was an emergency pantry, a shelf called tambobo, for bundles of garlic, onion and unhusked corn. The kitchen had three doors, or two, and a small window (one opening per remaining wall). There was no chimney despite smoky wood fuel because of the hazard it pre-sented on windy days to the grass roofing. Batanes kitch-ens were soot black and hung all around with baskets.

KITCHEN SLAVES

Cooks figure in a Philippine myth about creation. A vul-ture, so the story goes, hovered in space exhausted and unable to find a resting spot on water-covered earth. The waves rose, threatening heaven and evoking the wrath of an almighty power who, in vengeance, created islands to consume the waters.

On the largest island, Luzon, grew a great bamboo. The tired and curious bird split open the cane and out sprung, simultaneously, a man and a woman. The couple was so prolific, and whenever overpopulation threatened, the vulture swept down to frighten everyone. Some inhabitants hid in the cane and became royalty; the majority scampered from the chamber and became commoners; those who hid in the kitchen were doomed to remain slaves chained to the housekeeping chores of their masters. In the nineteenth century, alila was considered synonymous not only with “to create” (criar, as in criado), but with cooking: “Ipagalila mo bucas,” meant “Cook something for me tomorrow.”

In Ilocos the kitchen crew is not viewed highly, either. The graceful bridal dance of the region for pairs of men and women called salamanteka was so named during Spanish times. Master and mistress would call the serving people—who smelled of the kitchen because they were spattered all over with lard—to dance during the post-nuptial celebration, hence salamanteka, the “dance of the oily people” (manteca meaning “cooking lard”). According to dance authority Guillermo Gomez, dancers emerged from the kitchen with lechon, baked goods and other items cooked with lard or butter; they served the delicacies as other dancers clicked castanets.

The early attitude to the chores of everyday food preparation is not unusual considering the ordeals of starting a fire from scratch, keeping the flame aglow, as well as the bloody job of butchering meat or cleaning raw ingredients, particularly for generally large agricultural households. Even in nineteenth century Europe, cooks, bakers and butchers were not given their due unless they worked for kings. Romans, on the other hand, at the very peak of their empire, considered food as important as art. For most purposes, however, a cook was looked upon as another servant, perhaps highly ranked in the retinue, but domestic nonetheless—someone whose head could roll if royalty sought revenge for indigestion.

It took centuries to turn cooking into cuisine, and the cook into a chef.

Ivatan house

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panga is called belanga in Bahasa. A balanga is also known as a banga in Ibanag, Ilocano, Panga-sinan. In Tagalog, though, banga means a water receptacle. Katingan is the term for a large cook-ing pot in Tagalog and Malay. The koron of Bi-col, Samar and Leyte becomes kuran in Pampan-ga and kulon in Hiligaynon and Cebuano. It is

koden in Maranaw and kuden in Maguindanao.Anglit, a small Chinese clay cooking pot

similar to the palayok is used in Tagalog, Bicol, Tausog, and most of the Visayan area. Aside from these generic references, there are names for specialized shapes of pots such as the Tag-banwa panguran—a style distinct within the culture from the other (balanga) strain of jars.

The Spanish earthen casuela stewing pan, caserola, kalderon and its diminutive kaldereta have been adapted especially in urbanized Phil-ippines. All have come to mean, interchange-ably, a cooking pot. Whatever distinctions they had were lost with centuries of design refine-ments.

The Chinese word for cooking vessel, ka, is combined in karajay, kawa, kawali (li, a di-minutive, thereby indicating a small kawa)—all metal wok-like cooking pans. Philippinolo-gist Wenceslao Retana explained that kalahay was the original form popular on the Islands. When a seller called the wok by its Hispanized form, carajay, then the vessel was imported; if, instead, the seller said it was a kalahay, then the pan was island-made from steel or iron. Since Chinese monopolized the manufacture of cooking pans in the country, their term re-

mained rather than the Spanish word for metal pan, sarten. Sharing of the term kawali among Ba-hasa and Malay speakers reveals the Sino traders’ extensive influence in the region.

During Hispanic days, sweets in syrup and candies were made in a flat-bottomed, two-han-dled brass pan called tacho. This sugar evapora-tion pan was first used in Guatemala, Bolivia and Argentina to make caramelo. Its root may be Por-tuguese, according to an 1836 document, although its use spread in the Philippines during Spanish times, the result of a Chinese-shackled sugar in-dustry. Joaquin Martinez de Zuñiga credits Spain with introduction of sugar-making techniques from Mexico. The tacho is similar to the Chinese vat-style tulyasi kitchen pan; tacho and tulyasi (or talyasi) are understandably often interchanged.

Gamay is an old-fashioned kettle; buhoy a narrow-mouth pot or kettle. The Ilocano dong-dong is a very large jar for stew and rice. The earthen tayab for cooking viands is shaped like a banga but with a wider mouth. In Sulu, the pot for cooking rice is called lupo. The rice pot is sel-dom used for any other purpose; not only to keep the staple’s taste pure, but perhaps because of the traditional respect given Asia’s principal source of life and respectability.

JarS, BowlS & pitcherS

Receptacles are not only used for mixing but for storing, and their shapes are determined by their contents, raw materials and the potter’s expertise. Aside from hemispherical bowls, there are a vari-ety of bulbous containers in native kitchens.

As foreign cooking methods were added to insular fashion, local and imported receptacles were creatively interchanged. Natives turned out unglazed domestic ware on potter’s wheels, while China and Annam (Thailand) supplied glazed ware that, although principally used as funerary furniture, also figure on native tables (particularly among the upperclass).

To keep ants away, glasses and dishes of food were sat in a biya’y or salalay, shallow trays or other container half-filled with water or kerosene. Eventually, each leg of a food larder (called vian-dero because it held viands) stood similarly in a pan of water referred to as lampakan.

Following are a few surviving terms for the still untold variety of Philippine earthenware jars and bowls used in housekeeping, especially for the kitchen:

“Una cocina” depicts a common Cebuano kitchen. The drawing is from a collection done by several Cebuano artists and appears to have been made around the late 1880s through 1890s. (Collection: Luis Ma. Araneta)

ang-ang Jar with a large mouth, and sold by Chinese

anglit Small bowl

bakka Ilocano earthenware washbasin for rice, fish or vegetables

banga (also called balanga) Low earthen jar for storage or cooking; it is of Chi-nese origin and is used in Hiligaynon, Ilocano, Tagalog and Cebuano-speak-ing areas, as well as Samar and Leyte. Its bottom is concave. In Sulu the term applies to a pot used for cook-ing fish.

batya Shallow, circular, wooden washtub for laundering garments, and in which precious tableware was sudsed and rinsed. Americans substituted corru-gated hog-feed troughs for this tre-enware. In Ilocos the treen “basin or bowl” was also used for a kneading trough.

binki Sulu jar for drinking water

bohoy Pot with a small mouth

burnay Tall earthen jar with broad mouth and deep, strong, rounded body with a flat bottom; known in Ilocos and Tagalog regions where it is commonly used to store water for cleaning and bathing. In some areas, commodities like sugar and rice wine are sold by the burnay (see tapayan).

buruhan Pickling container among Hili-gaynon, Ilocano, Cebuano and Tagalog speakers

buyong Low earthen jar somewhat like a banga used in Pangasinan

dulay Bicol earthen jar similar to a banga

dayupapak Flat-bottom china jar

gusi Large porcelain vase, usually Ming; often the object of treasure hunters who believe gusi were burial jars of pre-Hispanic Hakka Chinese immi-grants to the Philippines. Not used for food although occasionally for rice wine; said to be magical and used as legal tender.

galong (called galung in Pampanga) Jug for drinking water

gayong Magindanao jug for drinking wa-ter

gulgurita Pangasinan and Tagalog drinking water container

hawong Wooden soup bowl derived from Chinese prototype

kaang Large, wide-mouth earthen jar, half a tinaja in volume

kalabay (also called tatangan or hawakan) Handle of a large porcelain jar

kalalang Drinking water jug

kalamba (karamba in Ilocano) Wide-mouth earthen jar among Pampangans and Tagalogs

kalo (also called tason, sulyaw and mang-

kok) Large cup or bowl

kam-aw Large, broad-mouthed and strong earthenware bowl of Chinese origin for washing hands or cleaning food to be cooked; used among Ilo-canos, Pampangans, Pangasinenses and Tagalogs. It resembles an ordinary flower pot in shape, or the lower half of a burnay, and in nineteenth centu-ry Ilocos was used to hold lard (see paso).

karamba (see kalamba) A broad-mouthed earthen vessel resembling a dongdong but used for drinking water, and usual-ly situated in the kitchen. A similar ves-sel is placed atop each of a granary’s four posts in Ilocos, not far from the ground, to prevent rats from climb-ing into the storage area.

katingan Large pot

kimpost Large china jar with narrow mouth

kuli Kankanay earthen jar for rice wine

ladiya Maranaw bowl

lampay Bowl larger than a sulyaw

limpik Very large jar with handles, or a very large jar with a wide mouth

linga Large, flat, low bowl or pot, some-what plate-shaped, for cooking tapioca in Sulu

loo-chen Gourd used in Bontoc as a con-tainer for preserving salted meat

mangkok A big bowl or saucer; originally Chinese

martabana A large jar for water

panaogbogan Generic term in the north for any receptacle, banga or can used for holding food remnants, par-ings, rice wash or whatever food is to be used for hogs, dogs or other family pets

paso (also called kam-aw) Earthen vessel burned brown with semi-porcelain, impenetrable sides and used as a food container in Bicol. In Simonor, Sulu the term is applied to a washbasin. In an old Ilocos vocabulary it was described as a large “pan”.

putek A small burnay, whatever its con-tents

saboray An old term for a kind of Bor-nean jar imported around northwest-ern communities of Luzon

salao Water vessel formerly placed at the foot of entrance stairways for visitors to wash their feet before entering the house

saro (also called jaro) Jug for drinking water

sillo Big bowl or saucer in Pampangan (similar to mangkok and tason)

sulyaw Large cup or bowl of Chinese origin


46 47

Culinary Contrivances

kapetera Coffee pot; from Spanish caf-

etera

kumbo Cruet sets that came in pairs (thus, a combo) or a decanter (which looks like a large cruet bottle)

kundi a borongan Maranaw brass wa-ter kettle

lapaw Old Tagalog word for a tight seal used on bottles containing liquid liable to froth over (as in aerated liquids); this antedates the word tansan (con-temporary Pilipino jargon for bottle-cap), the name of a brand of beverage from Japan that introduced the metal bottlecap to the Philippines in the early 1900s.

palukanlang Old Tagalog for a small bot-tle with a narrow neck

panalaagadan Maranaw brass stand for the porcelain water container called solang

poga Yakan bulbous clay water jar with a cover

prasko Flask; derived from Spanish frasco

purunggo Round, short-neck bottle or earthen jar

saro Earthen jar or pitcher; variation of haro from the Spanish jarro

solang Maranaw porcelain water con-tainer

termos Thermos; from the English pro-totype and acquired by Filipinos from the Spanish adaptation termos

tuytoy Vial, small wine bottle or small flask; also pronounced toytoy among Ilongots, Ilocanos and residents of Cebu and Leyte

tsarera Tea pot; although it is claimed to derive from Spanish charera, cha is the Spanish spelling of the Chinese word for tea, tsa. In Spain tea is te, and teapot is tetera. Charera is an Hispan-ismo coined in the Philippines that combines Chinese and Spanish.

tangek A large Ilocano kitchen jar

tambultambul (also called tataup) Jar for keeping cooked food from one meal to the next in Sulu, although there are seldom leftovers

tanang Small water jar used in Sulu

tapayan Large earthen jar in Bicolano, Pampangan and Tagalog regions

tason Bowl or large bowl; originally a Spanish word (similar to mangkok)

tataup See tambultambul

tibod Earthen jar in Samar and Leyte that resembles a banga

Bamboo pitchers and pourers in Island

homes include:

bayengyeng A thick bamboo section of several internodes used for carry-ing rice, liquids, and especially water in Ilocos and Pangasinan (synonym: bongbong)

bongbong Water container made from a piece of bamboo cut from node to node (synonym: bayengyeng)

bumbong A cylindrical bamboo con-tainer of one or more internodes used for water, money, documents and hats

cauit Cylindrical section in which unfer-mented coconut juice is harvested for making into tuba liquor

getget Kankanay multi-purpose contain-er encased in rattan; usually for meat or rice wine

inuli Small, narrow-mouth pitcher usually manageable by a five or six-year-old child; the first personal drinking ves-sel owned by a Tagbanwa.

inuman Short portable tube with a shoulder strap used for carrying wa-ter among Tagbanwa

tenglaw Kankanay hollow section for transporting rice wine to the fields

tubigan Tagbanwa water carrier about three to four internodes long; a type of bayengyeng

tukil Among Pampangans and Tagalogs, a length used as a container usually for water (similar to bumbong)

Other domestic pitchers, pourers, liquid containers and their accessories include:

apangan Kankanay porringer used to serve out rice wine

babangan Small handleless pitcher

bariles Barrel; derived from Spanish barril (synonymous with tunet and tu-ung)

biso Water vessel among Cebuano and Samar-Leyte areas

bote Bottle; derived from Spanish bote

botiha Round,short-necked earthenware jug derived from Spain

damawana A glass demijohn; derived from Spanish damajuana

dekanter Ornamental glass wine server; derived from English decanter

garapa Wide-mouth bottle or decanter; from Spanish garrafa

garapon Large, wide-mouth bottle, carafe or decanter; from Spanish garrafon

gurgurita Narrow-neck earthenware decanter valued for its ability to cool drinking water; from the Spanish word gorgorita and sometimes pronounced gulgurita. Retana noted in the 1920s that this word was pronounced gorg-

oreta, and was synonymous with the Spanish botijo (a word not used in the Philippines), the Visayan banga and the Tagalog candi (or kandi).

kandi Carafe or decanter

kantara Large, narrow-mouth pitcher; derived from Spanish catarra

kantimplora Water-cooler; derived from Spanish cantinflask

SupportS & coverS

Earthen jars, wine bottles and demijohns were protected from breakage by kalawas or balakas, a woven rattan shroud. Plates and dishes were simi-larly cushioned with a permanent rattan encase-ment called lingka.

Maranaw and Pampangan floors are protected from pot soot by a basket for hot pots called lakal; just as palayok, are kept from singeing furniture by a woven split-bamboo crown-like rest called dikin or asad in Tagalog homes, gokon in Bohol, Samar, Leyte and Panay, or tungtong among Ta-galogs, Hiligaynons and Cebuanos. In Ilocos wa-ter jars are placed on a cloth, woven bamboo or a dried banana leaf circlet called sagapa.

To lift jars off a fire, whether for industrial or household usage in the north, the silong was de-vised: a meter-long twisted strip of stiff bamboo or rattan that clamps around the receptacle. Cloth pot holders or rags used similarly are called nisnis in the area; while a kitchen rag not allowed to get soiled like the nisnis is distinguished as pagpunas and is used strictly for not-too-dirty clean-up jobs.

The native concave clay pot cover derives its name from its function: saklob, panaklob, tak-lob in Tagalog. Its natural substitute is the hemi-spherical kelleb of Ilocos, used on a variety of jars

including the banga and karamba; it is made of a perforated coconut shell with a wooden knob at the apex. A single leaf or layer of leaves is also used as a cover for earthenware pots when cook-ing rice. During temporary storage a cloth can be used over the rice—this fabric cover being called bigket along the northwest coast.

grinderS, BeaterS & maSherS

Mortars and pestles are the earliest post-primitive tools for pulverizing cooking ingredients. Rang-ing from simple stone and wood, the equipment is likewise fashioned in marble or brass. The latter, made by Maranaw craftsmen, is called bowayawa; Muslim-made mortars are characteristically deco-rated with okil motifs and sport both a handle rem-iniscent of the sarimanok bird’s tail, and a spout. Coconut milk is often added to ground spices be-fore pouring the condiments into a cooking pot. The coordinate pestle of the bowayawa is usually wooden.

A Tagalog tandem shares the same function. Its base is called dikdikan and the pounder, pandikdik (from dikdik, “to pound”). The Spanish synonym, almirez, has overtaken dikdikan in urban settings yet strangely, majador never replaced pandikdik.

Waist-high wooden mortars typically set near the

Earthenware jar market, Iloilo

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48


f o o t o f

kitchen steps are called lusong (after which Lu-zon island was named by the first Spanish invad-ers); they are used to separate rice husk from grain. Wooden pestles for the lusong come light and small for women, or heavy and almost shoulder-high in length for men. Small table versions of glass ap-peared from Europe, particularly Germany, for pharmacists rather than cooks. (The Philippines had no glass industry until the early twentieth cen-tury.)

Stone querns developed independently in dif-ferent cultures around the world. Known as gilin-gan in the Philippines, and once made from granite hauled in as ballast in Chinese junks (as had been done also to trade porcelain, which was valued far below silk on the open market), the machine takes its name from the verb giling which, throughout Indonesia and Malaysia, means “turning”. The insular quern, which is identical to the type still found in China and Hong Kong, is required when preparing rice flour and a thickening agent made from toasted rice grains. Large querns are also used for processing corn meal.

New World coffee and chocolate came with the Conquest. The former is roasted and then ground in a mortar, quern (those in Lipa were carved with flo-ral relief), crude wooden grinder, or box-like metal invention worked by a turning wheel or handle. City homes managed without their own imported grinder because comestibles provided the service free. The aroma of freshly ground beans was a nos-talgic signature of ye ol’ grocery or marketplace.

Molinillo, the peninsular word for wooden chocolate beater (which in some areas came to mean a grinder, like that for meat), never quite caught on in the Philippines; but its close kin, ba-tidor (from batear, to beat), did. The secret to pre-paring a fine cup of chocolate was to mash solid chocolate tablets or balls as they heated up in a

clay or brass (then later enamel) cooking pitcher called chocolatera, then to froth up the drink with brisk twirling of the batidor just before pouring the beverage into demitasse cups. Stove-top chocolat-eras never appeared on a fastidious homemaker’s table—for which fine china servers were in demand from Japanese and European kilns.

Cacao beans were treated in the Philippines as at their source of origin, Mexico. Dried, shelled beans were hand-ground over a granite metate made by Chinese stone carvers who copied the Az-tec prototype called metatl. While many families owned their own metate, city residents had the leisure of employing a professional Chinese choco-late bean-grinder who furnished his own tools of the trade. He sat, bent over from the waist, on a stool behind a slide-shaped, granite metate while he passed a granite rolling pin slightly longer than the metate’s width (and tapered at the ends for easy holding) over the beans. A melted liquid oozed off the slide unto a pan or bilao below. After this pro-cess produced a finely textured paste, the chocolate was shaped into balls by hand, or pressed into three-piece wooden molds. Uncooked chocolate awaited use in glass apothecaries. Depending on taste buds, sugar, peanut or cashew nut could be ground with the beans for flavoring.

Rolling pins are called pambilo. They were wooden and needed for rolling out pastry to make empanada and cookies.

kniveS, cutterS & ScraperS

Native knives are generally named after a shape in nature that they resemble, thus: parang, like a blade of wild grass; dahong palay, like a rice plant leaf. Most knives have field uses. The generic for knives is golok, an Indo-Malay word. Small kitchen knives are called kutsilyo after Spanish cuchillo, or kampit from Chinese. In the mid-1800s Angat town in Bulacan was a reputable source for knives and metal cooking pans.

At the foot of many a kitchen backsteps is not only a lusong but a sangkalan, the waist-high chop-ping block usually made from the cross-section of a large tree trunk; thinner portable blocks are hung in the kitchen.

One type of cutter common to Indo-Malay homes is the coconut shredder. The Philippine ver-sion is called kudkuran and consists of a sharply serrated metal cutter—either in the form of a sun-shaped disk or a long rectangle—which protrudes from a wooden base. Some stands are knee-high and sturdy enough that one can sit on them. A catch pan is placed under the grater. Others are

small and made to position atop a dulang work-table. The Muslim kudkuran is collectible because of the bas-relief around the base. In the nineteenth century, using a piece of driftwood that resembled a four-legged beast made kabayo a colloquial term for kudkuran (although “horse” was also adopted for the American-era wooden ironing table that bettered pressing on a padded table, bed or chest).

In the south Yakans use a kutkutan grater with a star-shaped blade on coconuts, but a rectangular board with sharp, raised holes to grate papaya. The Ilocano scraper is termed karus; it may be a pot-sherd or a coconut shell used to remove coconut meat, or to scrape and shred papaya for salads and pickles. A small karus is called kiris, its function being to scrape off extraneous matter from pot ex-teriors.

SpoonS, StirrerS & turnerS

The southeast Asian cook comes armed with a sandok ladle originally made of coconut shell attached to a bamboo handle. Pigafetta noted (1521) that in Tidore in eastern Indonesia san-duch meant spoon.

Philippine dialects provide equivalents other than sandok for that trademark of culinary capa-bility: kawet, Tagalog; kaut, Pampangan; kuhit, Bicol; kabog and kaloda, Maranaw; luwag, Wa-ray and Ilonggo. In Pangasinan and Ilocos, aklo is a ladle for cooking rice; when used for fish or vegetables, the Pangasinenses differentiate it as balaok—their functions are never interchanged. In one Ilocano vocabulary, the aklo is straight whereas the balaok has a curved blade.

Pakul is generic for ladle. The northern ka-ruas style with a woven bamboo “cup” at the end is used to extract sliced sweet potato or kaskaron balls from the boiling sugar in which they are cooked.

Datu Humabon called the spoon gandan in the early sixteenth century. In Leyte and Samar, siklot is specifically a spoon of wood. Suro is old Tagalog for spoon, while an obsolete Ilocano mean-ing for palaspas is a spoon made of palm leaves.

Kitchen turners came with the Chinese who also provided frying pans; thus the adapted word siyansi, used red-hot to singe the sugar coating of boiled hams and puddings thereby leaving a deli-cious caramelized topping.

SieveS & filterS

Pounded rice is sifted in a bistay. The term de-rives from Chinese, in which bi means rice. Finely woven sieves are referred to as bistay-

darak; larger meshed versions are classified as bistay-pinaway. Another Chinese accoutrement in Philippine kitchens is the bamboo lastay used to smoke fish. The native word for sieve, salaan, is employed for household strainers that are like baskets attached to a long, straight wooden han-dle. The conical woven Yakan strainer for coco-nut milk and oil is a saan.

Although espumadera occurs in Pilipino, the Spanish word is used for industrial tools to skim off scum. The northern agsaw with a bamboo or wooden handle and a round wickerwork blade is used to skim basi of flotsam.

A Spanish linguistic import is filtro, the is-land-wide term for “water filter”. It is associated with porous cylindrical imports mostly from England and Germany with brands like Berkefeld or Regulator, as well as local terracotta reproduc-tions. The filtro usually had a faucet as the twen-tieth century approached, and sat on a kitchen counter.

moldS

Puddings and ices introduced from Europe were set and shaped in metal European molds. Leche flan, an egg-rich custard derived from flan de leche, has become the most widespread Hispanic fiesta dessert in the Philippines. It is made in a metal pan, usually oval but also circular, star or floral in shape, called a llanera.

Round shells from the tree called bangkalan or bitaog serve as containers for buri sugar con-fections.

Three-part wooden molds were made for ground chocolate that was stored for cooking into a morning beverage. One fine example turns out oval tablets embossed with family initials. Similarly, white cheese in Laguna was embel-lished with letters of the alphabet carved into wooden molds.

Wooden baking cards provided raised deco-rations for cookies. The most common figure on Spanish-time Philippines versions is Saint Nicolas of Tolentino, whose patronage was spread by Augustinians and Rec-ollects. Pan, panecito or panecillo de San Nicolas, as the special biscuit was called, were made of araro or wheat flour, coconut milk, anise and sugar for blessing at church in Septem-ber. The cookies were eaten by


50 51


the sick hoping for a miraculous recovery, and crushed as a field fertilizer.

The majority of cards have Saint Nicolas on one side and several two-inch sinuous floral forms aback referred to as rositas, if rose-like. One unusual mold substitutes a royal looking couple complete with ceremonial ribbons for the holy figure.

SipperS & dipperS

Since the drinking of alcoholic beverages is cus-tomarily communal throughout the country, par-ticularly during rituals, it is deemed practical to keep wine in its storage container or ceremonial vessel, and everyone simply sip a rightful share in turn.

In Tagalog the generic term for “sipping tube”—sipsipan or bansi— takes its name from the verb sipsip (to sip); Pampangans instead use salubasib. The Kankanay draw out rice wine with a bamboo straw they call ta-il or leseng. Among Tagbanwa the bamboo bansuk drinking straw is pushed through a layer of ulam leaves (Barringtonia curranii Merr.) that keeps ferment-ed rice mash from mixing down into rice wine. Halasan is a synonym applicable to a sipper of bamboo or glass.

While straws are unadorned and functional, coconut dippers vary from the simple, polished, three-quarters of a coconut shell to one that is deco-ratively incised, or furnished with a wooden handle of plain bamboo or sinuously carved medium-hard wood. Three words for a coconut shell that doubles as dipper and drinking cup are lumbo, panabyanan and hungot— from largest to smallest.

Coconut shells are multi-purpose, serving as plates and bowls. The coconut shell container is called bao in Tagalog, bikan in Pampangan, buyubuy in Ilocano. Pamao is a more accurate reference to half a coconut shell or bao used as a dipper. Coconut shell dippers are also used to scoop water from a large jar (the Chinese tina, or the Filipino banga) when bathing—although in this function it is usually called salde, tabo or panabo in Tagalog; tabu in Bicol or Pampan-gan; tabo or salok in Ilonggo; kabo in Ilonggo and Cebuano; sabut in Ilocano; tabo in Pangasinan and Ilocano; kaor in Pangasinan; and sarok in the areas of Cebu and Leyte. A northern dictionary describes tabo as a kind of dipper “consisting of a section of thick bamboo, about half-a-yard long, attached to a long pole, and used to dip water.” A synonym in the area is the tawing, a dipper used to draw well-water.

cupS & glaSSeS

Just as tuba was carried away in bamboo pitch-ers, cups were made from a bamboo internode and called garong in Bicol; small bamboo wine cups are the Tagalog singalong. Large handle-less earthen cups in Ilocos were called mallo-kong. When made in glazed ware, small drinking “glasses” were known as tampayak, or in Ilocos as yaong (a wide version).

One style of manufactured wine cup was shaped like a crocodile egg and graphically re-ferred to as itlog-buwaya. In ancient Tagalog the hakusan was a golden cup with handles and a flat base often decorated with figurines—like a pres-ent-day trophy cup; it was most likely a ceremo-nial drinking vessel. The bungalong wine glass was used strictly at weddings. Regular wine cups or glasses were known in Tagalog, Pampangan, Ilocano, Cebuano, and Waray regions as tagayan, from the root word tagay meaning “toast”; and in Bicol as alapan. Kalo referred to a large cup or bowl, as did the Chinese addition sulyaw. Abáab meant a polished coconut half-shell used as a glass in Ilocos. The small pagaw coconut was prized for making into cups.

In Cebu the word for cup, usually with a handle, is liging—although Pigafetta in the first Spanish-Cebuano dictionary lists tagha as the word used in 1521. The demitasse was known as tazita in urbanized Philippines; the common Spanish word jarrito never caught on.

Spanish kopa and kopita were also added to Philippine dialects, particularly when referring to “a cup of wine”. Drinking tumblers were called baso from Spanish vaso. Although there is the indigenous word lagiti, meaning all breakable matter—including, therefore, glassware—there is no native word for glass; the Spanish cristaleria was adopted since the Islands had no local glass industry until recently; previously ilustrados im-ported crystal and pressed glass from Europe.

plateS, trayS & SaucerS

Native cookware is closely related to serving dish-es because of the materials used. When Magallanes arrived, the term for platter in the Philippine ar-eas he visited was the same as that used in Bru-nei—dulan or, if large, dinolang. From this word has derived several meanings: in Bali, dulang is no ordinary plate but that reserved for offerings to the gods; dulang in Tagalog refers to a low dining table around which persons sit on the floor. The latok is considered a rustic dulang, usually for kitchen use. But in the 1880s in Ilocos, a latok was a wooden

plate solely for rice; and in proper families each in-dividual used a separate latok at mealtimes.

Palagasan is an old Tagalog word for the kind of wood out of which old folks made wooden bowls and plates; the Ilocano barangaw tree’s tim-ber was made into dishes during the 1880s. Gold-en plates were for native royalty.

Aside from treenware, the first circumnaviga-tional crew encountered samat, platters made of woven or sewn palm leaves. Sapisap was a plate made from the shell of a bottle gourd. A number of culinary necessaries are still made of coconut shell. Coconut shell ware is referred to as tapta-pan, kulo or sisap in Tagalog, and bagul in Samar and Leyte. Recently the more generic bao (coco-nut shell) has been used as well for “coconut shell saucer” in Tagalog areas; the Ilocano duyog was one-fourth of a coconut shell cleaned to hold vi-ands—never rice—and condiments at table.

Among the Maranaw, whose plates were made of metal, there are the lapad and the tabak (a large lapad). Coarse, round earthenware plates were, by contrast, known as patilambo on Luzon’s northwestern coast.

Insular terms for porcelain plates and saucers are Chinese or Spanish derived. Throughout In-donesia, Malaysia and most of the Philippines, a porcelain dish is called pinggan, a term acquired through trading with Chinese. Binulakan is the Tagalog specific for a white or cotton-colored por-celain plate. Little saucers used for dipping sauce were called suik in ancient Tagalog. Lamakan is a northwestern term for saucer in the late nine-teenth century; the earthen pagsangagaan saucer served as a coaster for glasses and cups.

From Spanish comes the generic plato or, in its once colloquial Filipinized form, palaton (a large plate). Dinner dishes are called bahilya, a corruption of Spanish vajilla. Ensaladero, dul-cera, bandehado (or bandeja)—a salad dish, sweet or dessert dish, and a large tray—as well as sopera or turin, the soup tureen, have also found their way into common Pilipino usage.

Special utenSilS

Steaming of rice cakes like puto was done in a bamboo lansong introduced by the Chinese. Sino immigrants and traders also brought industrial equipment that joined the household barrage: kapin, a bamboo trellis for drying fish (that sup-plemented the bamboo lastay basket for smoking fish); kalya, a mesh crate for fruit and vegetables, as well as the term for a large bamboo basket to hold grain or measure a catch of fish. Pangasinens-

es adopted the barbacoa roasting and smoking frame from Guiana indians via Spanish seamen.

There are infinite more baskets developed regionally for use in different hunting, farm-ing, fishing and traveling activities. Sadly, they are giving way to plastic and metal substitutes; more unfortunately, the culture is losing proper terminologies for native containers, words which reflect a native sensitivity to the environment.

Foreign trade continues to add more to the Philippine kitchen cabinet. Piyambrera is an adaptation of the Spanish fiambrera for “tiered dinner pail”; and kanister is from the English tin canister for tobacco or biscuits.

Imported inventions usually retain their original reference in the Philippines. Refrigera-tors are repridyerator or fridge (from brand name Frigidaire). In Peacetime, resident Spaniards also called the appliance empriadera, a play on Span-ish enfriadera. The earlier icebox, introduced in the 1800s, was known as nebera, from Spanish nevera. The ice cream maker is called garap-inyera, from Spanish garapiñera or sorbetesan (from the Hispanic word for ice cream, sorbets, which in turn was derived from the French sor-bet).

Corkscrews, necessary for the wine so be-loved by Spaniards, was assimilated into Pilipino as tirabuson, from the Spanish; as were embudite and embudo, small and large funnel, respectively. The can opener, which became increasingly avail-able during the American Occupation, acquired a native equivalent from the verb “to open”: pam-bukas, that which opens.

This 1915 photograph shows an Ibaloy vegetable vendor from Trinidad Valley. By then Baguio was the summer capital of the Philippine colonial government headed by a Governor-General from the United States of America.


52 53


chaPTer 5

Culinary Codes and Measures

rbanidad—a study of urbanization, of civilized etiquette—was an academic re-quirement in Spanish-run schools around the Philippines during the nineteenth century. The table had become the true testing ground for students who were expected to mind their manners. Rules for “proper” table setting, menus, food preparation and presentation, table service and general etiquette were recorded in cookbooks for those fortunate enough to know how to read and well-sta-tioned to own copies.

Most culinary secrets were never recorded; and Filipino dishes were not initially considered as matter suitable for publishing. The writing down of recipes was practiced in cuneiform on stone tablets 4,000 years ago by Assyrians. In 14 A.D., Roman Marcus Gavius Apicius authored the oldest cookbook preserved. Such records chronicle courtly repast from gargantuan feasts with the nauseating use of emetics, to tempered Florentine banquets orchestrated by the Medi-cis. But it was improved printing facilities and literacy that brought instructional cookbooks to different classes.

heirloom erudition

What was fashionable in Europe was likewise sought after for Philippine kitchens. While not all set platters with their imposing edible architectural decor could be executed in every ilustrado home (and there were some more illustrious than others!), the drawings and instructions af-forded by cookbooks in the 1800s were creative inspiration for homemakers inclined to baroque, Victorian, flamboyant or simply “correct” fashions. Entertaining was the respite to small town ennui for gentlemen and ladies alike.

Among surviving treasures is The Book of Household Management Comprising Informa-tion for the Mistress, Housekeeper, Cook, Kitchen-Maid, Butler, Footman, Coachman, Valet, Upper and Under House-Maids, Lady’s-Maid, Maid-of-all-Work, Laundry-Maid, Nurse and Nurse-Maid, Monthly, Wet and Sick Nurses, Etc., with sanitary, medical and legal memoranda as well as a history of the origin, properties and uses of all things connected with home life and comfort. Mrs. Isabella Beeton’s book, released in 1861 after being originally serialized in London, was an instant success, and it is no wonder a few copies found their way into Manila—indeed one of the Orient’s cosmopolitan centers at the time. One Bicol scion grown rich from abaca delighted in the guide’s various ways to fold napkins. Although few ilustrados spoke English at

Olla Express was an early pressure cooker advertised in the May 1925 edition of La Mujer, a local magazine. Spanish and English languages mixed in attempts to attract sales of food supplies and kitchen equipment.

If not satisfied after 10 days, the owner of a new Use Little Ice refrigerator could return the product to Wright Furniture Company for a full refund. The refrigerator in those days was an ice block-cooled chest with front doors. This advertisement appeared in the July 15, 1916 edition of Excelsior magazine. (Collection: Filipinas Heritage Library)

5554

claSSroom cookBookS

The U.S.-orchestrated Insular government printed a host of recipes in textbooks, teachers’ manuals, magazine references, adult education pamphlets, and trade supplements. Among the earliest is a teacher’s guide, Housekeeping & Household Arts: A Manual for Work with the Girls in the Elemen-tary Schools of the Philippine Islands authored by Alice Fuller, who was stationed in Tuguegarao. This first attempt at a formal guide was geared to girls in the fourth through sixth grades.

Director of Education, Frank R. White, explains in the book’s fore-word that while his Department’s efforts were far-reaching at the time of the guide’s release in 1911, teach-ers still misunderstood the peculiar needs of Filipino families. Fuller, he noted, emphasized that “the teacher must know the homes from which her pupils come; that any increase in the necessities of the Philippine home must come gradually; and that the immediate duty of the teacher is to teach how to get the best results out of such things as are already eas-ily obtainable.” (She had actually defined a practical approach to accul-turation!)

Fuller justifies the importance of domestic science teachers: “In few countries in the world, and surely in no other eastern country, does

the turn of the century, her ideas were very handy for those who could, or who dealt with English traders.

The majority of early cookbooks on the Is-lands were in Spanish, such as El Libro de las Familias: Novisimo Manual Practico de Cocina Española, Francesa y Americana, Higiene y eco-nomia domestica. One of the most interesting sections showcases Spanish-American dishes workable in the Philippines: Colla Cubana, Na-tilla criolla, Dulce de guayaba, Tamarindas en almibar and Dulce de indias. Its charming advice on coping with daily feminine travails reflects nineteenth-century religiosity.

A Panay-island family practised the art of cookery following Manual del cocinero, cocinera, repostero, pastelero, confitero y botillero by Mari-ano de Rementeria, printed in Madrid, 1851. Like recipe books of the period, El Libro and Manual incorporate medical remedies, household hints, laundry preparations, methods of food conserva-tion and ideas on the art of carving. Already, some notion of newly discovered nutritional benefits and scientific methods in cooking were intro-duced.

Precious among kitchen mementos are reci-pes handwritten by students of Cordon Bleu. Fortunate was the Filipina heiress who learned culinary feats at the first French cooking school. Continental “finishing” made her more of a catch for a dignitary or visiting nobility. Urbanized ilus-tradas had Cordon’s secrets within grasp because French had been introduced along with Italian in

woman have the power and influence that she has the Philippines. She usually controls the house-hold administration, and generally it is a woman who holds the purse strings.”

For the first time, Filipino provincial and ur-ban food alike found their way into cookbooks. Fuller presents native dishes using easy-to-follow American methods and standardized measure-ments. She suggests that the “Filipino reverence for established customs” be utilized as a rock upon which to build the structure of better wom-anhood. Children from better-to-do families—”girls whose mothers and grandmothers have intelligence and refinement and who are accus-tomed to plenty and eager and willing to try new ideas in their home”—are among her principal starting points, although she does not lose sight of poor homes whose ideas of health and cleanliness must be adopted despite the lack of life’s barest necessities.

“The basis of a nation’s welfare is in its home life,” Fuller writes, “and no nation can be power-

some Island girls’ schools during the 1880s.Sadly, as in most other countries, very few Is-

land cooks or their superiors jotted down trade se-crets. Cooking was mastered by watching, tasting, sniffing; it was commonly considered an artistic sensitivity rather than a quantifiable science. So protective were some cooks that their achieve-ments are but hazy memories occasionally bor-dering on fantasy.

The big push forward for cookbooks came with the American public school sytem’s home economics, health and sanitation classes. Al-though Dominican priest, Evaristo Arias, attests that domestic science was introduced to Filipi-nas in 1883 at Sta. Isabel College, and cooking already an even earlier requirement of feminine education, it was the U.S. school program that pioneered beyond just the upper strata.

During colonial periods in the Philippines,

vigilia food was a major concern. In cuisine,

vigilia (or vigil) is the fast kept on the eve of a holiday,

a fiesta or day of fe (meaning faith). Vigilia foods were

also eaten on all fasting days required by the Roman

Catholic Church.

Salsas Españolas

Se hará hervir y se quitará la espuma en una cazuela á cierta cantidad de sustancia, á la que se añadirá la esencia de caza menor y de aves, y si se quiere caldo, desen-grasándolo y pasándolo por un cedazo.

Se prepare tambien con partes iguales de sustancia y de caldo, un vaso de vino blanco, un manoko de peregil, una cebolleta, una hoja de laurel, una cabeza de ajo, dos clavos de especial, dos ó tres cucharadas de aciete, un manojo de cilantro, una cebolla hecha cuartos, todo lo cual deberá hervir por does horas, y luego se desengrasa y añade sal y pimienta.

Con criadillas, setas y suficiente cantidad de sustancia ó caldo desengrasado, se hace la misma salsa anterior.

La salsa de vigilia se hace uniando todo el fondo de una cazuela con maneca, y poniendo en ella zanahorias, cebollas cortadas en ruedas, y tajadas de pescados de toda especie; se humedece en seguida con caldo de vigilia, y se pone á hervir. Se añade ajo, setas y vino blanco jasta que se reducen á una consistencia regular: se pasa todo por tamiz, y se conserva para cuando se necesite.

Source: Mariano de Rementeria y Fica, Manual del cocinero, cocinera, re-postero, pastelero, confitero y botillero (Madrid: Imp. de Dn Norberto

Llorenci, 1851), p. 77.

This recipe is from a book that has been

with a Filipino family for several genera-

tions. As to what was cooked from the recipes, no

one is certain. But surely the book inspired its owner

with Spanish customs that could be attempted in

the tropics.

Sopa de Calabaza

Se elige esta perfectamente madura, se le quita la cascara, se la limpia y corta en tiras iguales, y luego se pone en agua hirviendo con sal, escurriéndola é igualando los pedecitos. Hecho esto se colocarán en una cazuela con manteca de vacas, sal, nuez moscada, y un pco de miga de pan. Se remoja todo en crema, y se vuelve á poner al fuego, mencán-dolo de continuo para que la pasta no se pegue. Se cortan pedazos igaules á los de calabazade pan de cenleno, y se pone la mitad de la pasta en una fuente. Honda, colocando encima el pan y la cala-baza en figura de corona: se cubre despues todo esto con el resto re la pasta, y se espone á fuego templado para que se ase poco á poco. Se remoja el todo con crema muy caliente y la manreca dicha, sirviendo esta separadamente para los que quieran liquidar esta sopa.

Source: Mariano de Rementeria y Fica, Manual del cocinero, cocinera, repostero, pastelero, confitero y botillero (Madrid: Imp. de Dn Norberto

Llorenci, 1851), p. 31-32.

Adobo

Con partes iguales de vinagre y agua se cortain las cebollas en rebanadas con peregil, ajo, sal y pi-mienta. Cuando se quieran adobar legumbres para frier, como escorzonera y apio, se omite el ajo y la cebolla. Tambien se puede adobar con aceite y con la misma sazon. Nacese igualmente del modo siguiente. Se deslie, anteca en una cazuela, se anaden zanahorias y una cebolla picada menudamente, con la cantidad suficiente de pimienta, sal, ajo, laurel y peregil; se humedece el todo con agua ó caldo y una tercera parte de vinagre, pasándolo despues que haya cocido por un cedazo. Tambien se pueden ado-bar todas las carnes que quieran frierse.

Source: Mariano de Rementeria y Fica, Manual del cocinero, cocinera, repos-tero, pastelero, confitero y botillero (Madrid: Imp. de Dn Norberto

Llorenci, 1851), p. 90.

RECIPE FOR A DAY

Take a dash of water cold,And add a little leaven of prayer,

A little bit of sunshine gold, Dissolved in the morning air.

Add to your meal some merriment,And a thought for kith and kin,And then as a prime ingredient

Plenty of work thrown in.But spice it all with the essence of love

And a little whiff of play,Let a wise old Book and a glance above

Complete the well spent day.

From The Manila Cook Book, compiled by the Guild of Central Methodist Church and revised by the Women’s Auxiliary of Union

Church of Manila. Published by The Philippine Education Co. of Manila, 1919.


56 57

Culinary Codes and Measures

7

Felice Prudente Sta. Maria


Philippine Culinary Vignettesand Period Recipes

1521-1935


Meet Ah Sing, cook of Governor-General William Howard Taft at Malacañang Palace in 1901, and

Asing, cook of Jose Rizal at his Hong Kong home in 1892 ■ Learn about the manufacture of

champagne from a flyer squirreled away by Rizal in his pocket diary, or make bologna sausage

following a handwritten recipe found among his personal papers ■ Read about the Monks of the

Red Robe and The Military Order of the Carabao whose members ate their way through tropical

boredom ■ Appreciate intricate Peacetime paper pastillas wrappers and 19th-century hand-carved

toothpicks from private collections never before seen ■ Compare an 1851 adobo recipe to what

one eats today ■ Prepare Gateau Sans Rival the way they did in 1932, and Food for the Gods in

1922, or tamales from an 1834 recipe and lechon sauce from 1790 ■ Mix over 24 cocktails and

temperance drinks from the 1920s and 1930s including the famous Lintik, which is to Manila what

the Sling is to Singapore ■ Enjoy the florid poetry of an 1861 Tagalog fiesta invitation card, the silly

antics of crockery’s best friend, Agapito Makapinggan, and the serious efforts to teach good manners

through classroom drama ■ See for the first time the hand-size, flag-inspired menu card from the

famous Malolos Ratification celebration (perhaps the only one to have survived from the 1898

dinner), and the menu card from the 1907 crowning of the statue of Our Lady of the Rosary, known

popularly as Virgen de la Naval, today enshrined at Sto. Domingo Church in Quezon City.

THE GOVERNOR-GENERAL’S KITCHEN gathers interesting and little-known stories from

historical sources about the Philippines’ culinary culture from 1521 to 1935. Read about the

circumnavigation’s first picnic in the Philippines, efforts to stem hunger in a pioneering Spanish

colony, carabao-horn spoons to maintain quiet during meals of nuns loyal to a vow of silence,

banquets and balls of the well-heeled and the noble, devil’s ice, Christ’s food, seditious plottings at

the King’s bakery in Intramuros, mythical pygmy Dinahon who introduced kalan and palayok, early

lumpia, the origins of carinderia, and much more. THE GOVERNOR-GENERAL’S KITCHEN is a

must-have for all who enjoy cooking, eating, and conversing about food.

■ ■ ■

Over 100 entries for native spices and flavorings

Over 160 period recipes

Over 200 listed terms for local cooking utensils

■ ■ ■

ANVIL

TH

E GO

VE

RN

OR-G

EN

ER

AL’S K

ITC

HE

N Philippine Culinary V

ignettes and Period Recipes 1521-1935 ■

Felice Prudente Sta. Maria

Gov Gen Cover.indd 1 8/30/06 2:08:03 AM

13L

arry C

an

’t Co

ok

• How

Larry J. C

ruz b

uilt a

bu

siness th

at d

efin

ed Filip

ino d

inin

g

He wanted to have this book

even long before he got sick.

He would talk about it but he

ran out of time before he could even start

work on it. He wanted to write about what

he had been through as a journalist/

publisher/restaurateur/businessman/

food lover, and share his experiences and

learnings with the younger generation.

For me, publishing this book about

my father is a precious opportunity to

travel back to our life together—a journey

consisting of moments that were happy

and sad, serious and hilarious, but all of

them interesting.Those moments helped

shape my life.

—From the Preface by

Lorna Cruz Ambas

How Larry J. Cruz built a business that redefined Filipino dining

10

The Alba Cookbookof Señor Anastacio de Alba & Miguel de Alba

The A

lba Cookbook

Señor A

nastacio de Alba &

Miguel de A

lba

Feat

uring step-by-step paella recipes

Best-Loved Spanish Recipes, Practical Tips on Cooking and the Good Life

“Señor was in no way stingy with his knowledge of

Spanish cuisine. Gambas, Salpicao, Callos,

Paellas, Lengua and all the dishes that

Filipinos know as Spanish food—I

believe were actually introduced here

by Señor Alba.”

—Chef J Gamboa

“I always wonder how old Señor

Alba is because my grandparents

know him, my parents know him and

I am sharing a drink with him. One cool

dude, Señor Kulas Alba is! You’re the man!

His name synonymous to the Spanish cuisine in the

Philippines.”

—Chef Quito Jose

One of the little known facts about Manila’s famous

restaurateur is that this Spaniard was also an actor

and a really admirable one. I would be with my mother,

Sarah Joaquin, as she directed stage plays for the Manila

Theater Guild, as well as the Spanish theater group Circulo

Ascenico. Mr. Alba starred in Spanish plays like “Pegame

Luciano” and “Los Arboles Mueren de Pie” , comedies in

traditional Spanish style. Did you know that he also sang

on stage?”

—Tony Joaquin

Señor instantly became a force in the Manila restaurant

scene. I enjoyed hearing about the many restaurants and

‘supper clubs’ Señor opened on streets such as Isaac Peral,

Florida and Dewey Boulevard. He would tell us how people

used to dress so elegantly then and how flashy cars would

all line up in front of his restaurants.

—Malu A. Gamboa

Alba's Cover Final.indd 1 8/1/12 11:21 PM

11

It took me four years to write another cookbook. I didn’t think I would write again. My first book, Cooking lessons, was the fulfillment of a promise I made to my mentor, Doreen Gamboa Fernandez.

But as Doreen said, “Once you start writing, you cannot stop.” I told her at one of our lunches that I only intended to write one book as a legacy of sorts. She said, “Mark my words, there will be a next one.” She

was right. Though a major part of this book is about my many and varied experiences in Italy, I cannot wholly devote

this cookbook to the cuisine of the place because I have traveled to and learned food in other places as well. There are my favorite dishes learned from Lao, Thai, and Vietnamese cuisines. And since my kids grew up in Los Angeles, California, they have also asked me throw in Mexi-Cali dishes and their favorite Greek mezzes. As they reasoned out, you cannot be eating the same cuisine everyday. So, take your pick, my dear readers, whether you want to cook and entertain Thai style, al fresco barbecue dining, Greek style, simple fine dining, Italian style, or fusion-style party food.

But as with my first book, I have the young housewives, beginners, and the fledgling cooks in mind, too. Hence, I chose only to include recipes that can be done easily, needing ingredients that are readily available. All

the recipes in this book are to serve six people. My aim is to teach easy-to-follow recipes that can be duplicated at home without having to spend too much time in the kitchen. I feel that I achieve this goal each time I hear comments from friends and strangers that my Cooking lessons has become their “bible” in the kitchen. I hope that after trying out the recipes from this new book, this might become their second kitchen “bible,” as well.

—From the Introduction by Beth Romualdez

Cooking Lessons 2

Beth Romualdez

anvil | food

When Beth Romualdez cooks, she cooks up a storm of passionate savors. Her second set of Cooking Lessons reveals how she energetically immersed her spirit in different culinary cultures, returned to the home hearth, and then awakened memory to share her finest finds with anyone who considers cooking one path to nurturing an elegant love for life.

— Felice Prudente Sta. Maria

OJO! place reggie aspiras text here!!! When Beth Romualdez cooks, she cooks up a storm of passionate savors. Her second set of Cooking Lessons reveals how she energetically immersed her spirit in different culinary cultures, returned to the home hearth, and then awakened memory to share her finest finds with anyone who considers cooking one path .

— Reggie Aspiras

Cooking Lessons 2 B

eth Romualdez

Place Barcode here

Cooking lessonsFood adventures from around the world

Beth Romualdez

anvil | food

Cooking lessons Food adventures from

around the world • B

eth Romualdez

Bore vel dolendre feu feu facil duis dolortisi. Ero essissit lore consecte eu facilisl dolortio consenit ut accummy numsan eratin ut lorper suscil iusto od molessim dolorem venit nonsecte ea faccum quat landit, sim zzriliquatio exer ad te consequatuer sed tie facipis euisi tem irit do con ver in venis ex-eros diam quis am et velis acipit utat lutem quat, si eumsan vero con vel dit nisci blaorerit, vullan-digna adit lobore mod tis atum nosto essi etum eu feuis del ut volor sis er acinim vent augue magna feum adigna faciduisi blam digna feugiam, venim ad modolenim vulla consequis exeril ipis nisi tatue facipsuscing etummod et landip eraessequat, veli-quam, venis am, consed dolumsan velendre dia.

Bore vel dolendre feu feu facil duis dolortisi.Ero essissit lore consecte eu facilisl dolortio con-senit ut accummy numsan eratin ut lorper suscil iusto od molessim dolorem venit nonsecte ea faccum quat landit, sim zzriliquatio exer ad te consequatuer sed tie facipis euisi tem irit do con ver in venis exeros diam quis am et velis acipit utat lutem quat, si eumsan vero con vel dit nisci blaorerit, vullandigna adit lobore mod tis atum nosto essi etum eu feuis del ut volor sis er acinim vent augue magna feum adigna faciduisi blam digna feugiam, venim ad modolenim vulla consequis exeril ipis nisi tatue facipsuscing etummod et landip eraessequat, veliquam, venis am, consed dolumsan velendre dia.

—Felice Prudente Sta. Maria

Linam

nam

Eating One’s W

ay Around the Philippines

Claude Tayag and Mary A

nn Quioc

LinamnamEating One’s Way Around the Philippines

Claude Tayag and Mary Ann Quioc

A foodie couple eats their way around the Philippines in search of the proverbial Holy Grail. In this culinary travel guide book, not only do they lead the reader to the best eats every region has to offer, scouring the length and breadth of the archipelago, but also the why’s and how’s of what makes each dish unique and outstanding in its own right. As staunch keepers of the flame of traditional Philippine cuisine

(albeit leaning to Pampangan), the couple discovers the sheer variety and intricacies of this multilayered cuisine, making it easier for the uninitiated to better understand what makes the Filipino eat what he eats, debunking the pronouncements of armchair pundits that Filipino cuisine is all brown, oily and unappetizing. Indeed, there’s more to it beyond the adobo, pancit and lumpia.

“Claude Tayag is the true master and greatest spokesman for Pampangan cuisine. He introduced me to whole new worlds of flavor.”

–Anthony BourdainTV personality and author of Kitchen Confidential:

Adventures in the Culinary Underbelly

“The cuisine of the Philippines turned out to be a huge surprise. A meal prepared for me by artist and gourmand Claude Tayag, in Pampanga, now rates as the best of my entire life. In particular was a seafood kare-kare stew made with prawns whose heads you ripped off to allow the fat to dribble into the sauce.”

–Simon MajumbarAuthor of Eat My Globe: One Year to Go Everywhere and Eat Everything

“Word of mouth is the way one finds good places to eat around the Philippines; it is also the way one is warned about bad ones. Mary Ann and Claude provide a refreshing foil to the ‘praise releases’ that clutter newspapers and magazines. Checking out everything from fine-dining restaurants aspiring for a Michelin star to hole-in-the-wall market-side karinderias, Mary Ann and Claude give us more than a food guide by sharing all the other experiences that accompanied their meals. Linamnam fills in the gap left by the pioneering Lasa by the late Doreen G. Fernandez and Edilberto Alegre. It should be on every foodie’s bookshelf and hopefully on an iPad or cell phone too for easy reference out of town.”

–Ambeth R. OcampoHistorian and bestselling author

anvil | food

LinamnamEating One’s Way Around the Philippines

Claude Tayag and Mary Ann Quioc

ISBN 978-971-27-2640-8

Linamnam cover 061912.indd 1 6/19/12 1:03 PM

By Claude Tayag and Mary Ann QuiocA foodie couple eats their way around the Philippines in search of the proverbial HolyGrail. In this culinary travel guide book, not only do they lead the reader to the besteats every region has to offer, scouring the length and breadth of the archipelago, butalso the why’s and how’s of what makes each dish unique and outstanding in its ownright. As staunch keepers of the flame of traditional Philippine cuisine (albeit leaningto Pampangan), the couple discovers the sheer variety and intricacies of this multi-

layered cuisine, making it easier for the uninitiated tobetter understand what makes the Filipino eats whathe eats, debunking the pronouncements of armchairpundits that Filipino cuisine is all brown, oily andunappetizing. Indeed, there’s more to it beyond theadobo, pancit and lumpia.

“Word of mouth is the way one finds good places to eat around the Philippines; it is also the way one is warned about bad ones. Mary Ann and Claude provide a refreshing foil to the “praise releases” that clutter newspapers and magazines. Checking out everything from fine-dining restaurants aspiring for a Michelin star to hole-in-the-wall market-side karinderias, Mary Ann and Claude give us more than a food guide by sharing all the other experiences that accompanied their meals. Linamnam fills in the gap left by the pioneering Lasa by the late Doreen G. Fernandez and Edilberto Alegre. It should be on every foodies bookshelf and hopefully on an i-pad or cell phone too for easy reference out of town.”

–Ambeth R. OcampoHistorian and bestselling author

Artist, writer, culinary savant – Claude Tayag is all these. But he works with the heart and soul of a nationalist, defining what is truly Filipino. He is a national treasure.

–Millet M. Mananquil Lifestyle Editor, The Philippine Star

anvil | food

Author Claude Tayag shows Anthony Bourdain the best of Pampango cuisineaccompanied by the Philippines’ pride San Miguel Pale Pilsen and San Mig Light.

Linamnam_2ndED_Cover-Revised.indd 1 11/3/14 6:08 PM

Like a cherished heirloom recipe, the Congressional Spouses Foundation, Inc., (CSFI) also has a long and storied tradition. The group was founded in 1988 by Mrs. Cecilia Mitra, wife of then-House Speaker Ramon Mitra Jr., with the primary goal of gathering congressional spouses to undertake projects that would be of help to their husbands. Initially, membership was limited to the wives of congressmen, but over time, it opened to include husbands, parents, siblings and children of the representatives.

In the same manner, I am proud to present to you Salu-salo: A Celebration of Philippine Culinary Treasures—a collection of unique recipes from numerous districts in the Philippines. Each dish is a distillation of our colorful culture, as well as an invitation to visit the wonderful places from which they came. I hope you enjoy this culinary journey throughout our beautiful country—one district, one dish, one bite at a time.

Kain na!—from the Foreword by Joy Belmonte

The 132 recipes in this book were carefully chosen and put together with the help of the members of Congress and their spouses. These are dishes that best represent their districts. In this book, you will fi nd treasured heirloom recipes that have been passed down through generations, as well as new ones that have developed and become favorites in their locales. Particular care was made to ensure that the traditional methods, from milking a coconut to making suman wrappers from coconut leaves, as well as the native ingredients from each place were kept and shared in the book. In many ways, these became the ingredients that have given this cookbook its distinct fl avor and made it more than just a compilation of recipes, but also a primer for Filipino culinary history and culture.

—From the Introduction by Mons Romulo

Congressional Spouses Foundation, Inc.

A C

elebration of Philippine Culinary Treasures

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there is no book

Philippine C

ookery fro

m hea

r to platter | Tatung S

arthou

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About the Author

Michael Giovan Sarthou III, popularly known as Chef Tatung, is a chef, writer and culinary heritage advocate. He developed his love for cooking while growing up in Cebu where his grandmothers would let him help cook in the family kitchen. In 2010, he burst onto the restaurant scene with the popular Chef Tatung’s, which explored Philippine regional specialties in all their diversity.

Since then, Chef Tatung has become a jovial, engaging media presence. He has shared his cooking expertise on such TV shows as The Amazing Food Challenge on the Asian Food Channel and Food Wars on Food Network. He has been featured in all major food magazines in the Philippines as well as in foreign lifestyle magazines. The Philippine Daily Inquirer named him one of the “Ten People Worth Knowing” in 2012. F&B World Magazine included him in its list of “Top Chefs” for 2013. Food Magazine featured him in its “50 Best” list in December 2013.

In all his endeavors, Chef Tatung champions indigenous cooking methods, supports small farmers around the country, and promotes Philippine cuisine. He is one of only two Filipino chefs invited to speak at Madrid Fusión Manila 2016, the first and only Asian edition of the most important gastronomy congress in the world held annually in Spain. He is a regular columnist for FOOD Magazine and he will soon be presenting a four-part documentary special on Lifestyle TV called The Food That We Are which takes inspiration from this book. He also has his own recipe blogazine at www.lutongtatung.com.

Chef Tatung lives in Quezon City, acting as a parent to his two nephews. Whenever he is not busy, he spends his time cooking for his family.

About the bookWhat is Filipino cuisine? It’s an age-old question with no simple answer. Philippine Cookery: From Heart to Platter skirts the question by simply restating it: how do you cook Filipino? Chef Tatung Sarthou provides the answer, and a whole lot more, through ten fascinating chapters that delve into the flavors, ingredients, techniques that constitute a Philippine-based cuisine.

Rather than classifying this cuisine in nationalist or regional terms, Sarthou uses cooking method as his entry point to understanding, tasting and recreating the dishes of his home country. He goes deep into Filipino cooks’ ways of steaming, grilling, curing, among many techniques. He explores this cuisine’s components—vinegar, coconut, rice, etc. He peppers the book with historical gems, like Americans’ modernizing influence on pan de sal (salted bread). He also shares his own memories of cooking with his mother and grandmother, including a touching anecdote about how adobo saved his family during World War II.

Philippine Cookery: From Heart to Platter approaches cooking, not as a cold, mechanical guide, but as a process that is much more organic and forgiving, where cooks learn and excel through “feel” and where a recipe is regarded as a “suggestion” more than a rulebook. As the book’s title hints, cooking is truly borne out of love, from which values of honesty, integrity, sense of family, nostalgia play a key role in teaching how to cook Filipino. Through captivating photographs, recipes, stories and practical advice, Sarthou takes readers on a journey through time, space and memory, offering a road map for them to follow to discover their own love for cooking.

On the coverBringhe is cooked with malagkit (glutinous rice), gata (coconut milk), turmeric, meat, seafood, vegetables. This dish traces its lineage, not to a single influence, but rather to such disparate ones as Spanish paella and Indian biryani. Today, it can even be cooked in a Chinese kawali or wok. Bringhe exemplifies the multi-dimensional nature of what has evolved to become Philippine cuisine, linking a distant past to a modern present, and hinting at an exciting future.

Tatung Sarthou

Philippine Cookeryf r o m h e a r t t o p l a t t e r

Tatung Sarthou

Philippine Cookeryf r o m h e a r t t o p l a t t e r

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Chef Tatung is a happy man. That is important when preparing a Filipino meal. Happiness matters.

Words from around the archipelago characterize meal expectations to include enjoying the company of others. The archaic words gara and higara—still active in Samar and Leyte of 1895—for instance, mean to like

eating in the company of others. The social aspect of eating is as fundamentally important as the satisfaction from culinary flavors. That is a primary quality of Philippine culinary heritage.

Naya naya, a forgotten term from central Philippines of the 1880s, represents a critical concept in understanding the creation of the Filipino meal. Naya naya means the enjoyment derived from preparing and serving a meal; its second meaning is “a happy person.” Naya naya is a homegrown Filipino recipe for personal joy. Serve a good meal and make others enjoy themselves in order to be happy. Hospitality takes on an added dimension because everyone involved in the meal is expected to sustain happiness. Naya naya should be recognized as the singular essence of Philippine culinary tourism.

This book focuses on the cooking procedures that produce dishes Filipinos relish and take pride in. The meal is the tangible dimension; happiness is supposed to be the meal’s attitude. Chef Tatung mentors readers through la batterie de cuisine, heat control and indices of culinary expertise. He also offers stories about the procedures and

Foreword Spirit of the meal

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Chapter 1

Inin, pananukan | simmering

Laga, pakulo | boiling

Lotlot | cooking in bamboo

Pesa | boiling plainly

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Learning how to cook can be one of the most rewarding and gratifying pleasures in life. Cooking begins by putting a pot of water over fire. If you can do that, you can cook! Think of it this way: you are asked to boil a pot of water. But before you do, you toss pieces of chicken and aromatics like onions, ginger, and lemongrass into

the pot. If your instincts tell you what to do next, then you can cook. One of my fondest childhood memories is that of my mother

preparing a simple meal for me: a bowl of hot rice softened in clear soup, with shredded boiled meat and chopped vegetables. In Cebu, this manner of eating soup with rice is called bahog. In Pampanga, it’s called ambula, while in Ilocos, it’s labay. Hot soup also warms up leftover rice or bahaw perfectly. A hearty bowl of soup using the simple method of boiling is all you need to feed your loved ones.

In Tagalog, the verb kulo means “to boil,” while laga refers to the process of cooking by boiling. The word kulo traces its origin to the Chinese words ku (ebullient or boiling) and lo (water). Cooking with boiling water is a fundamental act of survival, a method used since our ancestors learned to cook with clay pots, and before that, bamboo tubes.

From kulo to luto

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Laswa Boiled vegetable soup with shrimp

When making vegetable soup, put in the vegetables one by one, starting with those that require the longest cooking time to tenderize, like kalabasa and gabi. The starch from these vegetables renders richness to the soup. Add the leafy greens last. Season lightly enough for you to taste the flavors of the various elements put into the dish, even if it is cooked in one pot.

Serves 4 as main dish or 6 as starter

4 to 5 cups water

2 medium tomatoes, cut into wedges

1 medium yellow onion, quartered

2 stalks lemongrass, root pounded, leaves knotted

6 okra, sliced

1/2 cup cubed kalabasa (squash)

200 grams shrimp, trimmed

1/4 cup alugbati leaves, trimmed

1/4 cup malunggay leaves

2 siling pansigang (green finger chilies)

Patis (fish sauce)

Black pepper, to taste

1. Boil water in a cooking pot. Add tomatoes and onion. Cook covered for 3 to 4 minutes.

2. Add lemongrass, okra and kalabasa. Cook for 5 to 7 minutes or until tender.

3. Add shrimp and cook for 2 minutes.

4. Add alugbati, malunggay leaves and siling pansigang,stir and continue cooking for 1 minute.

5. Season with patis and black pepper. Serve hot.

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Convenience and flavorBouillon cubes and powders were conceived to help the home cook who may not have the time or resources to cook dishes from scratch, or commercial kitchens that need to serve huge quantities of food daily. Bouillon cubes used to be made by extracting the flavor from meat bones and evaporating the liquid completely, leaving behind a flavorful paste stored in capsules. These days, manufacturers use synthetic or chemically designed “nature-identical” seasonings instead to mimic the real thing.

There is a dramatic difference between dishes cooked the traditional way—long, slow, with fresh and quality ingredients—and those that use convenience products. Many of these products are sodium-based, with artificial flavorings made with oil-based or water-soluble chemicals that mimic the flavor and aroma of real ingredients. These products are enhanced with artificial food coloring, monosodium glutamate and preservatives. They are aggressive in flavor and tend to over-stimulate the palate, making you salivate while eating. They also tend to mute the flavor of “real” food.

If you use too much of these artificial flavorings on a regular basis, you can become accustomed to their taste profile. While these products are indeed convenient, they do not necessarily translate to quality. If you do choose to use bouillon cubes or powders, here’s what to do:

Use these products only when really necessary for simple recipes with ingredients that don’t have enough flavor or for recipes that require stock (when it is not available). For dishes with many ingredients, they may not be needed at all.

Use less than the recommended amount and supplement the dish with fresh, natural ingredients. Make sure to use it as a base, not as the main flavoring agent.

Don’t use it in everything you cook. Using one flavor base for all your dishes will take away from the flavor dynamics of your menu. Everything ends up having the same aftertaste. Use it only on the dish that needs it most and let the other dishes shine on their own.

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pineapple

libas

mango

alibangbang

pingol-bato or begonia

Souring agentsPampaasim

calamansi

guava

batuan

tamarind

tomato

santol

dayap

tamarind flower

kamias

misoA variety of local fruits are used to produce

nuanced degrees of acidity and fruitiness

in sinigang, with the most common being

unripe sampaloc (tamarind fruit). The chosen

souring agent gives each sinigang its particular

character: fruity and floral or tangy and citrusy.

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Boiling in bambooAny dish that can be cooked in a metal pot can be cooked in bamboo. According to Philippine History by Maria Christine Halili, our ancestors used bamboo tubes as well as earthen pots to cook their meals. Today, several ethnic groups continue to rely on the resilient bamboo. Aetas use young bamboo (bulo) to cook rice, influencing such dishes as pangat na ulang, a well-loved shrimp soup from Pampanga. The Bagobo of Davao del Sur use a similar bamboo cooking method called lotlot or lyurot. Chef Isidro Tadtad, who specializes in indigenous Mindanao cuisine, describes the lotlotan cooking method thus: ingredients are inserted inside the open end of the bamboo tube. Water, oil, salt or spices then go in. The open end is plugged with a banana leaf to ensure that the contents are kept inside and to seal in the heat, preventing it from escaping the bamboo tube. The tube is then exposed to fire and rotated occasionally.

Other dishes cooked in bamboo include delicious chicken binacol, stewed with coconut milk, lemongrass and ginger, from the Visayas, particularly Aklan and Iloilo, as well as Batangas in Luzon. A favorite kakanin called suman (a glutinous rice cake) is steamed inside a bamboo tube, and served with sugar or sometimes grated coconut. In Vigan, there is tinubong, a rice mixture poured into bamboo tubes then broiled. In Piat, Cagayan, you’ll find tuao tinubong made from malagkit (sticky rice), gata (coconut milk) and salt.

Cooking with bamboo may be an ancient method, but it is an ideal cooking vessel for today’s environment-conscious times. Fast growing and abundant, bamboo is the ultimate eco-friendly cooking vessel. Here’s how to use it in your cooking:• Choose young or green bamboo shoots. Tubes with inside diameters of 1 3/4 inches or more

are considered the best size for use in cooking.• Pour enough water inside the bamboo tube when cooking. Without water, fire or heat could

burn through the bamboo and damage the food. For those dishes that may take longer to cook, make sure to add more liquid or water during cooking.

• Use banana leaves to cover the open end of the bamboo tube during cooking.

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Linutlot na hito Catfish cooked in bamboo

Serves 3 to 4

1 large hito (catfish), cut into small pieces to fit inside bamboo tube

1 knob ginger, 2 inches long, sliced

6 shallots, chopped

3 tomatoes, quartered

1 head garlic, crushed

1/2 cup vinegar

1/4 teaspoon salt

1 piece siling pansigang (finger chili), sliced

4 stalks lemongrass, tied into a bundle

young bamboo tube, open on one end

banana leaves for sealing

1. In a bowl, combine hito, ginger, shallots, tomatoes, garlic, vinegar and salt. Add siling pansigang. Mix well.

2. Stuff lemongrass into the bamboo tube, Add the hito mixture. Seal open end of bamboo with banana leaves.

3. Lay bamboo tube diagonally over an open fire and turn every so often to cook evenly. When bamboo begins to get charred, the hito is cooked. Split open bamboo tube in half and serve hito with steamed rice.

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Chapter 2

Barbecue | grilled meats and seafood on sticks

Ihaw, sugba, dangdang | grilled directly over fire

Inato | grilled chicken seasoned with salt

Insarabasab | scorched over an open fire

Lechon, litson, inasal | roasted whole on a spit

or using a rotisserie

Linigeb | “grilled” in Palawan (Cuyanon dialect)

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Sawsawan and other saucy encountersWhether in a roadside barbecue joint or at home, it is nearly impossible to eat a meal in the Philippines without an accompaniment of dips and sauces known as sawsawan. It is up to the diner to create his own dip using the basic ingredients of vinegar (suka), soy sauce (toyo), fish sauce (patis), mixed with siling labuyo or calamansi--the building blocks of almost every sawsawan and a key to achieving distinct Filipino flavors with every meal. While there are no rules, ideally choose a dip with a contrasting or complementing flavor rather than a dip with the same flavor profile. The dips featured here go beyond the traditional vinegar-based sawsawan.

Grilled eggplant, minced garlic, tomatoes, onions, vinegar, patis, pepper

Sautèed red tomatoes, garlic, salt, pepper

Purèed green mango, salt, pepper Soy sauce,

calamansi

Torn wansuy leaves, diced tomatoes, red onions, dayap, patis, pepper

Bagoong alamang (fermented

shrimp paste)

Sarsa mongha:olive oil, pickled shallots, olives, sliced garlic, salt, pepper, breadcrumbs

Pulped sampalok, salt, pepper

Sautèed miso, tomatoes, onions, salt, pepper

Sautèed tahure (fermented beancurd) tomatoes, onions, salt, pepper

Patis, calamansi, siling labuyoBagoong isda

sliced kamias fruit, dayap

Minced siling labuyo, salt

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Chapter 3

Kinilaw | souring, cooking with acid

Atchara | pickling

Ensalada | salads

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Chapter 4

Pinasingaw | steaming

Halabos | steaming, especially crab, shrimp

and shellfish in their own juices

Saing | cooking rice by boiling until liquid

is fully evaporated

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Chapter 5

Guinataan | cooked in coconut milk

Pinaitum | burnt coconut

Tinutungan | smoked coconut

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Chapter 6

Gisa | sauté or stir-fry

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Chapter 7

Prito | Searing, pan frying, deep frying

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Chapter 8

Adodo | braised in vinegar

Caldereta | stewed in tomato sauce

Estofado | stewed or cooked in brown sauce,

usually with caramelized sugar or soy sauce

Kinulob | braised in a covered pot, sometimes with

banana leaves and cooked over low fire

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Kinilaw na malasugueBlue marlin with vinegar

Serves 3DRESSING

3/4 cup coconut vinegar

1 teaspoon ginger, minced

sugar, optional (to balance acidity of vinegar)

juice and rind of 6 calamansi or 2 dayap

siling pansigang (green finger chilies), to taste, sliced diagonally

salt or patis, to taste

KINILAW

300 grams fresh malasugue or tuna fillets, cut into 3/4-inch cubes

1/4 cup coconut vinegar, for rinsing fish

1 cup cucumber, peeled, seeded and diced

1 onion, sliced into strips

2 tomatoes, seeded and sliced into wedges

1/2 cup coconut milk or to taste

chopped wansuy (cilantro), for garnish

1. To make the dressing, mix together vinegar, ginger, sugar if using, calamansi or dayap, salt or patis, and chilies. Set aside.

2. Rinse fish in vinegar and strain. Discard vinegar used for washing.

3. Place fish in a ceramic bowl and toss with cucumber, onion and tomatoes.

4. Pour dressing over fish, mix then chill. Just before serving, add coconut milk. Garnish with chopped wansuy.

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A kawali for all seasonsImagine life before the kawali came. There was only the palayok which was breakable, porous and best used for boiling or stewing. But Chinese traders soon brought iron pots and pans, and especially the wok or kawali, a round-bottomed metal pan from Guangdong province in China. Also known as kaha or carajay, it is said to come from the Chinese root word khah or “cooking vessel.” When Chinese traders introduced the kawali to the natives, its popularity caught on. This ushered an era of culinary discovery for the Filipino cook. The kawali’s versatility, as well as the introduction of oil as a cooking medium, allowed the home cook to reinterpret indigenous recipes using more complex cooking methods to achieve more layers of flavors and interesting new textures that were not possible with basic cooking methods. The giant kawali, initially called a kawa, became a workhorse at fiestas as it made cooking in large batches possible.

When you purchase a brand new kawali, you need to season it first so that it will retain the flavors of your gisa and last for a very long time. Here are some reminders about how to treat your kawali properly:

• Wash your new kawali with warm soapy water to remove machine oil and other industrial residue from the factory.

• Dry your kawali thoroughly using a kitchen towel or paper towels.• Once it is dry, place it on your stove and turn on the flame. Allow the kawali to heat up

but do not let it reach its smoking point.• Pour in a little oil and rotate the kawali to spread the oil across the bottom, and to heat

up all parts of the kawali.• Turn off fire and allow the kawali to cool. With the use of a towel or a paper napkin, wipe

off the oil inside the pan, then wipe the bottom of the kawali to oil it as well.• Repeat the heating, oiling and wiping process 3 to 4 times. • Once the kawali is seasoned, don’t use soap on it. Just rinse it with hot water and scrub

with a sponge or brush. You can use rock salt to remove stubborn dirt.• Follow every washing with drying over low heat, then wiping it with a lightly oiled cloth.

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The basic guide to making gisa

Cooking the garlic is crucial. The flavor can range from sweet to tangy to toasty to bitter, depending on how long it is cooked. Some recommend putting the garlic in before the pan gets fully heated up so that more of the garlic flavor is infused in the oil. Others prefer to start with the onion. However, it really depends on the flavor profile you intend to create from the gisa. For more flavor, start by rendering pork fat and sautéing the aromatics in the pork lard. Or else, first sear the meat on all sides until brown, remove it, and then follow with the aromatics. Then return the meat to the kawali and add liquid to tenderize the meat and make into a stew.

2 tablespoons oil or a thick piece of fat, about 1 1/2 x 1 inch

2 cloves garlic, crushed

1 onion, finely chopped

2 tomatoes, roughly wedged

1. Heat the kawali over medium fire and add oil or render pork fat.

2. Add the garlic. Move it around with a sandok and allow it to brown lightly. Be careful not to burn the garlic.

3. Add onion and sauté until tender and translucent.

4. Add tomatoes and toss around with the onions and garlic. Allow excess liquid to evaporate.

The key is the sahogThe sahog are those little bits of joy diners look for when eating their vegetables or noodles. The term sahog refers to the minor components of a dish, but can also mean the principal flavoring ingredients: mostly meat, poultry or seafood (sometimes pre-cooked), but not including the standard noodles and gisa. You can upgrade the dish for an important occasion or special dinner guest by simply adding more sahog. Thus, a ma-sahog na pancit (noodles rich with ingredients) becomes the extra special, enriched version of a workaday pancit. Our everyday ginisang gulay (sautéed vegetables) can become ginisang sitaw, okra, petchay, talong, kalabasa, repolyo and the list goes on. Add soup stock to the gisa to transform soups into monggo, patola, upo and even sinigang.

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Chapter 10

Binuro | brined or salted cooked rice to ferment foods

such as fish, eggs and vegetables

Inasinan, inasnan | salted or salt cured

Pinatuyo, dinaing | dried

Pinausukan, tinapa | smoked fish, fowl and meat

14

The purpose of creating communication materials in both print and digital format is to promote, support, and supplement a marketing program or an advocacy.

One thing is common with all of them, they possess a very

specific goal:

It must generate a positive response.

Calamares | 150 Battered and deep fried squid rings served

with sinamak, calamansi and red chilis.

Chicharon Baboy | 120 Deep fried pork rinds served with

sinamak dipping sauce.

Shrimp Ukoy | 120Deep fried shrimps, beansprouts, squash and sweet potatoes with sinamak dipping sauce

Kilawing Tanguigue | 215Cubes of tangigue marinated in vinegar,

onions and chilis.

Sizzling Sisig | 185A Benny’s special of roasted pork cheek

and chicken livers. Topped with chicharon and served with red chilis.

Tokwa’t Baboy | 130Fried tofu, crunchy bagnet, onions and chilis

served in a sweet and tangy sauce.

Mongo Soup | 145Sauteed mung beans with pork and shrimp pieces

and ampalaya leaves, topped with chicharon. (Good for 2)

Molo Soup | 145Thai inspired dumpling soup.

Topped with cilantro leaves.

Nilagang Baka | 245A hearty broth from beef ribs and

chunks of vegetables. (Good for 2)

Sinigang na Baboy | 195Pork belly cooked in tamarind broth

with fresh vegetables like string beans, swamp cabbage and

raddish. (Good for 2)

Sinigang na Bangus Belly sa Bayabas o Miso | 170

Milkfish belly cooked in fresh and mashed guava broth with eggplant, string beans and kangkong (swamp cabbage) (Good for 2)

Sinampalukang Manok | 170Chicken pieces with raddish, string beans and okra

in fresh tamarind broth. (Good for 2)

Ensaladang Pako at Itlog na Maalat | 135Fern leaves tossed in red egg vinaigrette. Topped with red

egg slices, onions and tomatoes.

Ensaladang Talong, Okra at Kamatis | 120Grilled eggplants, blanched okra

and diced fresh tomatoes served with bagoong balayan dressing.

Manggang Hilaw, Bagoong at Kamatis | 120Green mango cubes served with diced tomatoes

and our own bagoong.

Talbos ng Kamote, Suha at Singkamas | 120Blanched kamote tops with pomelo fruit chunks,

turnips and white onions and tossed in pomelo dressing.

Adobong Kangkong | 165Swamp cabbage cooked in adobo sauce served with chunks of pork bagnet. Topped with fried garlic.

Bicol Express | 165Pork slices and lots of green chilis simmered in coconut milk and fresh bagoong.

Ginataang Puso ng Saging | 155Banana heart simmered in shrimps, pork and coconut milk.Topped with red chili.

VEGETABLES | MGA GULAYLaing | 135 Taro leaves cooked in coconut, shrimps, pork and coconut milk. Lumpiang Sariwa | 95Sauteed vegetables like turnips, cabbage, potatoes, baguio beans and tofu wrapped in our own egg wrapper. Topped with fresh garlic and sweet peanut sauce.

Pinakbet | 195Our chef ’s special! Sauteed assortment of fresh vegetables like eggplant, string beans, squash and okra in bagoong sauce. Topped with pork bagnet, chicharon and shrimps.

Pinangat | 150A Bicol delicacy made of wrapped taro leaves with dried fish and pork simmered in thick coconut cream. Choose regular or hot.

Rellenong Talong | 165Grilled eggplant filled with pork and vegetable and pan fried in beaten egg.

Sari Saring Inihaw na Gulay at Sawsawan | 195An assortment of fresh, grilled and blanched eggplant, okra, string beans, camote tops and tomatoes. Topped with red egg slices and served with three kinds of sauces - bagoong, bagoong dressing and balaw balaw (fermented rice and shrimps).

Grilled Tuna Belly at Ensaladang Mangga | 245Marinated and grilled tuna belly served

with green mango salad tossed in spicy sweet chili sauce.

Paksiw na Tiyan ng Bangus | 175Boneless Bangus belly simmered

in cane vinegar, eggplant and spices.

Pinasingaw na Pla-Pla | 275Steamed whole pla-pla topped

with fried garlic and chilies in butter sauce.

Steamed Lapu-Lapu | 405Whole lapu-lapu steamed in

lemongrass and ginger with our special sauce.

Please allow 15-20 minutes.

FISH AND SEAFOOD | ISDA AT LAMANG DAGATBangus Tinapa at Ensaladang Talong | 395

Whole boneless smoked milk fish, baked and served with eggplant salad.

Crispy Pla Pla, Mustasa at Balaw Balaw | 250

Deep fried crispy pla-pla served with fresh mustard leaves and balaw balaw (fermented rice and shrimps).

Ginataang Hipon sa Kamias | 185A nice concoction of prawns

cooked in coconut milk and kamias fruit.

Grilled Bangus Belly | 250 Marinated and grilled bangus belly

topped with fried garlic and served with lemongrass dipping sauce.

Grilled Tanguigue | 235Marinated tangingue fillets served

with lemongrass sauce.

Chicken and Pork Adobo | 165Pork and chicken pieces stewed in soy sauce, vinegar, peppers and garlic.

Crispy Dinuguan | 165Crispy pork meat and intestines (isaw) added to the dish gives a different twist to an old favorite! Topped with green chilis.

Crispy Pata with garlic and chili | 485Crunchy, flavorful crispy pata topped with stir fried garlic and green

chilli slices and served with lemongrass sauce.

Lechon Kawali | 185Crunchy pork bagnet slices served with lemongrass sauce. Garnished with cilantro leaves.

Sizzling Barbecued Spareribs with Java Rice | 295Pork spareribs slices, marinated in soy sauce and honey. Served grilled and topped with spring onions and toasted sesame seeds.

Sizzling Bopis | 185A Bicol dish with some kangkong stems added for that delightful crunch. Served sizzling, topped with red chili.

MEAT & POULTRY | KARNE at MANOK

Beef Salpicao | 199Strips of beef sauteed in our own special sauce.

Binagoongan Baboy | 185 Our Chef ’s special of slow cooked pork belly

in a generous amount of fresh tomatoes and fresh bagoong. A must try!

Bistek Tagalog | 199Thin fillet of beef, marinated in soy sauce and calamansi and pan fried. Served with onion rings.

Calderetang Baka | 199An old favorite! Shortribs cooked in

tomato sauce, liver spread, olives, bell peppers, potatoes and carrots.

Chicken Inasal | 225Grilled chicken leg quarter marinated in its

original inasal sauce. Topped with fried garlic and achara.

APPETIZERS | PULUTAN

SOUP | SABAW

SALAD | ENSALADA

Crispy Tadyang ng Baka | 385 Shortribs marinated in herbs and spices then deep fried. Served with lemongrass sauce.

Grilled Pork Chop | 185Truly a favorite of regular diners! Grilled pork chops served with lemongrass sauce.

Kare Kare | 295Oxtail and tripe simmered in peanut sauce with eggplant, string beans and native petchay. Served with our own bagoong.

Adobo Rice | 195Rice sauteed in adobo sauce with

chunks of chicken and pork. (Good for 2)

Aligui Rice | 120Rice sauteed in aligue roe sauce.

Binagoongan Rice | 185Rice sauteed in bagoong.

Topped with fried garlic. (Good for 2)

Garlic Rice | 70 Fried rice with lots of fried garlic.

Plain Rice | 35Steamed rice infused with pandan leaves and wrapped in banana leaves to give it a unique aroma.

Pinakbet Rice | 170Pinakbet vegetables served in a bed of rice

sauteed in pinakbet sauce. Topped with chicharon, bagnet and shrimps.

(Good for 2)

Tinapa Rice | 185Pandan rice with chunks of tinapa,

fresh tomatoes and wansoy, topped with slices of salted egg. (Good for 2)

Bam- I | 170Sauteed sotanghon and canton noodles with meat, seafood and vegetables.

Topped with garlic and spring onions.

Benny’s Pansit Puti | 170Our chef ’s special concoction

of bihon sauteed in garlic and topped with assorted

vegetables and meat.

Pansit Canton Guisado | 180Egg noodles with squidball,

shrimps, squid and vegetables

Pansit Palabok | 180Bihon noodles topped with

a rich sauce of shrimps, tinapa flakes and chicharon.

Sotanghon Guisado | 170Sotanghon noodles sauteed in squid,

pork, shrimps, squid balls and vegetables.

All day BREAKFAST | ALMUSAL sa buong araw

Beef Tapa | 215Beef slices marinated in soy sauce and garlic.

Served with garlic rice and fresh tomatoes. A choice of scrambled, sunny side up or red egg.

Daing na Bangus | 215Half portion of daing na bangus served with garlic rice

and tomatoes. A choice of scrambled egg, sunny side up or red egg.

Longganisa | 215Chicken | pork longganisa served with garlic rice

and fresh tomatoes. A choice of scrambled egg, sunny side up or red egg.

Pork Tocino | 215Pork tocino slices served with garlic rice

and fresh tomatoes. A choice of scrambled egg, sunny side up or red egg.

Goto | 135Rice porridge with oxtripe, spring onion and fried garlic

Arroz Caldo | 135Rice porridge with chicken, spring onion and fried garlic

DESSERT | MINATAMIS

Buko - Pandan | 125Pandan flavored green gulaman squares topped with buko meat and sweetened milk. Topped with vanilla ice cream and toasted pinipig.

Halo Halo Special | 130 A well known Filipino dessert that is made of sweet beans, nata de coco, red and green kaong, monggo, macapuno, langka, leche flan, minatamis na saging, garbanzos, milk, ube, ube ice cream, small sago, pinipig and crushed ice.

Leche Flan | 65Egg and milk custard served with its caramel sauce.

Maiz Con Hielo | 95 A combination of cream of corn and kernels served in shaved ice and fresh milk.

Mango Gelatin | 125Mango cubes in sweetened cream with red and green gelatin

Minatamis na Saging | 60 Banana plantain in syrup

Mini Turon with Coco Butterscotch Sauce | 105Bananas, sweet potato, sweet langka and small sago rolled in lumpia wrapper. Topped with coconut butterscotch sauce.

FRUIT SHAKES

Apple | 105 Chico | 105 Dalandan | 105 Dayap | 105

Grape | 105 Guyabano | 105 Kamias | 105 Lemon - Ginger | 105

Lychee - Ginger | 105

Melon | 105

Mango Green / Ripe | 105 Orange | 105

Pineapple | 105 Strawberry | 105 Watermelon | 105

BEVERAGE | MGA INUMIN

Local Bottled Water | 55 Evian, Volvic, San Pelegrino | 105Schweppes Soda or Tonic Water | 85

Coca-cola, Sprite, Royal, Coke Zero | 55

Iced Tea | 70Pandan Lemongrass Infused Tea | 75Green Tea / Lipton Tea | 65

RICE | KANIN NOODLES | PANCIT

Tablea Brownie with Vanilla Ice Cream | 00Coco Pandan Crepe | 00Sorbetes | 00Vanilla Ice cream with Chocnut, peanuts and choco syrupUbe Ice cream with macapuno balls and LangkaBuko lycheias Sherbet

Tocino de cielo | 00 Palitaw with grated coconuts, sugar and sesame seeds | 00 Fried suman with Mango and ice cream | 00

Tomato Juice | 65Calamansi | 75Fresh Orange Juice | 105

Heineken, Tiger, Corona | 105San Miguel Beer / Light | 65

Bottomless Coffee | 95Illy Brewed Coffee | 75 Cappucino | 105 Double Espresso | 170 Espresso | 85Hot Chocolate | 105

15

In less than a year, Rustan’s Supermarket

SansRival Magalogue (magazine

+catalogue) became a byword in

customer service publication. It has

developed a cult-following and it’s fan-

base is growed exponentially.

16

Three things to consider

The Design Brief: The heart and soul of a concept; this will help streamline ideas that focus on the design solution rather than the problem.

Organizing information: Handling volatile materials like text and photos; and also time-table, work-flow and staff

Imagination and Reason: Executing your design with the right tools; the template, the grid, typeface, color and image that are persuasive and effective.

The Art of Breakfast

SansRivalThe pleasures of tasteVolume 1 • No. 1 April 2011

17

Volume 3 • No. 9 • December 2013

The pleasure of taste

The Joy of Shopping

1. Choose your editorial and creative team carefully

18

sansRivalYour monthly journal on the pleasures of taste

Volume 1 • No. 1 • March 2011

Breakfast of Champions

Margins: .125 inches on all sides

Rustans Logo dimensions: w:1.8523 in x h:1.0611 in

Color guide: C40-Y100 M100-Y100 C20-M10-Y10-K70

2. Generate a simple, yet a very strong concept

19

Gastronomika 2

Gastronomika is a theme-based, idea-driven, consumer service publication that will

showcase Rustan’s Supermarket’s range of products.

With authoritative, informative and entertaining articles from published writers, coupled

with forward-looking editorial design and crisp and clear photography, Gastronomika will

soon become the most sought-after publication in its category.

Gastronomika will advocate fresh views and inspiring insights on the true essence of

gastronomy*:

• Gastronomy is the reasoned knowledge of everything

that concerns man as he eats; it facilitates choice, because it

helps us to understand what true quality is.

• Gastronomy enables us to experience educated

pleasure and to learn pleasurably. Man as he eats is culture;

thus gastronomy is culture, both material and immaterial.

• Choice is a human right; gastronomy is freedom of

choice. Pleasure is also everybody’s right and as such must be

as responsible as possible

• Gastronomy is a creative matter, not a destruc¬tive

one. Knowledge is everybody’s right as well, but also a duty,

and gastronomy is education.

• Gastronomy enables us to live the best life possible

using the resources available to us and stimulates us to improve

our existence.•

Gastronomy is a science that analyzes happiness.

Through food, which is a universal and immediate language,

a component of identity, and an object of exchange, it reveals

itself as one of the most powerful forms of peace diplomacy.

_________________________

* from Carlo Petrini’s book Slow Food Revolution

Précis

3. Have a clear design brief

It was a succesful launch but there were some glitches.

Make sure that you are aware of it and address them swiftly and accordingly.

BRIEF

Rustans SansRival The Pleasure of Taste

Volume 1, Number 7 | September-‐October 2011

36 pages | Article Line-‐up

Theme: Germany / Oktoberfest.

Page 1 Cover – courtesy of the German Club

They will provide the following on Monday:

-‐ Brezel (Pretzel)

-‐ Wienerli Sausage with Potato Salad

-‐ Hungarian Sausage with Mashed Potato and Sauerkraut

-‐ Frankfurter Sausage with Mashed Potato and Sauerkraut

-‐ German Bread

-‐ typical German beer mug

On a red and white or a blue and white gingham patterned tablecloth

Page 2 Staff Box, TOC

Page 3 Editor’s Notes – Wunderbar, my soft introduction to German Cuisine

Page 4-5 mainCourse – The German Club -‐ History, new directions by Joseph Cortes

Page 6-7 mainCourse -‐Octoberfest by Tracey Pasca

Page 8-9 SansRival Recommends: German Herbs and Spices

1. Dill

2. Hungarian Paprika

3. Parsley

4. Vanilla

5. Mustard

6. Caraway

7. Marjoram

8. Nutmeg

9. Root Parsley

N.B. We will do the recipe spread similar to SR Vol 1 no. 3

We will shoot the ingredients on the left and place the text on the right (for all the recipes).

Page 10-11 Carrot Cream Soup with Cream Cheese Dumplings

Ingredients: • 3 T. butter• 1 small onion, chopped• 2 1/2 c. carrots, peeled and chopped or 3/4 lb. • 1 medium potato, peeled and chopped • 1 1/2 T. lemon juice• 3 c. beef broth or vegetable broth • 1 c. dry white wine• 1/2 tsp. sugar (optional) • 1/2 c. cream• Salt and pepper to taste• Chopped chives for decoration (optional) .Dumplings: • 8 oz. cream cheese• 1 egg• 1/2 c. breadcrumbs

• 1/4 tsp. salt or to taste• Pepper and freshly ground nutmeg to taste

Page 12-13 German Potato Salad

Ingredients

• 3 -‐ 4 boiled Potatoes• 3 slices Bacon• 1 medium Onion• 1 teaspoon Flour • 1 tablespoon Mustard• ¼ cup chopped Celery• 2 tablespoons fresh chopped Parsley• ¼ cup Apple Cider Vinegar• 1 tablespoon Sugar• ½ teaspoon Salt• ¼ teaspoon Pepper• ½ cup Water

Page 14-15 How to Make Sauerkraut -‐ By Martin Masadao

Ingredients

• A glass jar with a plastic lid• 1 medium sized cabbage (1 kg) • 4 tbsp kefir whey• 1 tbsp sea salt• 1 tbsp caraway seeds or fresh chopped dill

Page 16-17 -‐ Beer Garden Culture in Germany c/o Ige

Page 18-19 - Farmers Breakfast

Ingredients

• 4 Potatoes• 6 Eggs• 6 slices Bacon• ¼ cup Milk• 1 Onion• 1 tablespoon Butter • Salt as per taste• Freshly Ground Black Pepper as per taste

Sidebar on Breakfast: Frühstück At a typical German house, breakfast will generally comprise bread, cold cuts, cheese, eggs, honey, and coffee or tea. Cold cuts could include meats like ham, salami, liverwurst and these are combined with a variety of cheeses. If you visit a German household, you will be served may different types of breads and rolls as well. Yogurt, quark (which is a variety of cream cheese), fruits, and muesli are also common breakfast staples.

Page 20-21 Mustard Pork Chops

Volume 1 • No. 2 • April 2011

Guilty Pleasures

The pleasure of tastesansRival

20

A good design brief is vital to the success of a project

The design brief serves as the guiding document for the project. Think of it as like a business plan for a specific project.

Your design brief should cover everything necessary to execute the project, in a manner that is easy to refer to throughout the project timeline.

Make notes on your design brief once you start the project. Keep your proposal along with it, as well as other documents. Highlight the important parts of each, or make notes in the margins. Don’t just look it over at the beginning and then file it away somewhere. Using the design brief throughout the process can effectively result in a much better end product.

Each design project is unique. A thorough, articulate design brief is a critical part of the design process.

The Design Brief: is the heart and soul of a concept; it will help streamline ideas that focus on the design solution rather than the problem.

Healthy start

January February 2013

January-FebruaryTheme

Healthy lifestyle

Main courseA chef’s “foodie” new year’s resolution

SansRival RecommendsA chef’s “foodie” new year’s resolution

SansRival livePantryHealthy alternatives, fibers and anti-oxidants

grapeVineWine for your heart

AprilTheme

Summer Food Festival

Main courseThe art of barbecue

SansRival RecommendsThe picnic pantry

SansRival livePantryPicnic and summer classics

grapeVinenon-alcoholic, thirst quenching drinks

Summer

April 2013

21

• Client company name:• Industry sector:• Client contact details:• Project type and title:• Prepared by:

• Background that has led to this designbrief…

• What is the clients unique sellingproposition?

• Who are the clients key competitors?

• Prepare a competition matrix

• Who is the target audience for theproject?

• What is the business objective of theproject?

• What existing materials should we beaware of?

• What are the “NON NEGOTIABLE”elements of the design?

• Copy (text), logos and images

• Specifications of items required

• Production timetable and deadlines

• Budget guidelines

Design brief: Questionaires

22

This is the first question you should ask before embarking on a design or an editorial project.

Market or target audience:

Demographics

• Gender• Agegroup• Educationalattainment• Incomebracket

• Nichegrouping/organization/club

Who is your target audience?

24

1

Rustan’s Supermarket sansRival magalogue

Creative Strategic Planning Workshop Report • March 2012

4. Thestrategicuseof•Grid•Typeface•Color•LayoutWill define your publication’s DNA

25

Editor-in-Chief Ige Ramos Managing Editor Glenna AquinoAssociate Editor Roda Masinag Art Director Joan SoroPhotography Stanley OngFood Stylist Sandee MasiganContributing Editors Joseph Cortes

Alya HonasanTechnical Editor Marlon De LeonManagement LDV and Associates

Rustan Supercenters, Inc.Ambassador Bienvenido R. Tantoco, Sr.C�� E��, RSCI

President & CEO Donnie V. TantocoVP Marketing Division Frances J. YuAVP Marketing Division Aggie G. ArtadiAd & Promo Manager Tet F. BachmannAd & Promo Coordinator Vangie S. Isla

Published monthly by Rustan Supercenters, Inc.4th fl oor, Morning Star Center, 347 Sen Gil Puyat Ave., Makati City. Telefax: 899-1915. Website: www.rustansfresh.com. Follow us on twitt er at htt p://twitt er.com/rustansfresh and like us on facebook at htt p://www.facebook.com/rustansfresh

Rustan’s sansRival magalogue is distributed for free to the members of the Fresh Shopping rewards and Star Sapphire card members.

Copyright ©2011 Rustan Supercenter, Inc. All rights reserved. Neither this publicati on nor any part of it may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitt ed in any form or by any means—electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without the prior permission of sansRival magalogue.

Neither Rustan Supercenter, Inc. nor sansRival magalogue nor its agents accept liability for loss or damage to any material submitt ed for publicati on. All informati on correct at the ti me of going to press.

Rustan’s Supermarket Greenbelt 1 • Makati-Glorietta • Rockwell • Shangri-La Plaza • Gateway Mall • Corinthian Hills • Katipunan • San Antonio • Tomas Morato • Magallanes • Fairview • Ayala, Cebu • Banawa, Cebu

President’s MessageWelcome to the maiden issue of sansRival, Rustan’s new magazine/catalogue, which will showcase our superstore’s range of products. This monthly, theme-based and idea driven “magalogue” has been created with you, our customer in mind, understanding your needs while at the same time advocating fresh views and hopefully giving inspiring insights on gastronomy and food trends along with information on our latest offerings. In this way, the publication’s slogan: “Pleasure of taste for the discerning palate,” will be truly reflected.

The theme of our first issue is breakfast, not just any breakfast, but the breakfast of champions. Here we feature some of those who are champions in their own field—Lisa Macuja in performing arts, Ricky Santiago in sports, and Nina Yuson in cultural work—on why breakfast is the most important meal of the day for them. Also in this issue we offer our readers special features on a range of breakfast essentials that will help them to make quality choices.

I enjoin readers who are enthusiastic about current food trends and the finer points of gastronomy to follow us every month. As we love to hear from our readers, we encourage you to send us your feedback.

Have a pleasurable shopping!

Donnie V. TantocoPresident, Rustan’s Supermarket

The pleasure of taste for the discerning palate

mainCourse | Breakfast of champions 5

Nina Lim-Yuson | All important starter 6Busy educator and founder of Museo Pambata takes ti me out to talk about breakfast.

Lisa Macuja-Elizalde | Energy booster 8The prima ballerina of Ballet Manila delights in healthy breakfast at home and abroad.

Ricky Santi ago | Kicks up a breakfast 10Taekwondo black belter starts his day with care and att enti on to this all important meal.

sansRival recommends | Breakfast essenti als 14Your basic shopping list for a healthy and hearty breakfast

sansRival recommends | The fresh choice 16Check out the ready to cook breakfast entrées available for you to easily prepare.

slowFood | Breakfast at Benny’s 20Have a healthy breakfast of whole wheat pancakes and eggs benedict.

wellBeing | A salute to the sun 22Yoga teacher Alya Honasan writes about yoga and the early riser.

innerBeauty | A beauti ful start 24Morning rituals help you begin each new day in the right way.

fastFood | No ti me to cook 26Quick breakfast fi xings and assorted fruit shakes

grapeVine | Champagne breakfast 28A great way to celebrate a special day or milestone

topShelf 30Rustan’s recommends high-quality and upscale brands for our discerning customers.

4 March 2011

SansRival VOL1 NO1.indd 4 3/3/11 9:07:35 PM

IT’s called “breakfast” for a reason—it’s

your first taste of food after a long night of

rest for both the body and mind, and it’s

the all-important fuel to get your mental

and physical systems moving. Many people

have, intentionally or not, ceased to be

“breakfast people,” grabbing a cup of

coffee before their morning commute and

settling for food they can bring in a bag. Yet,

health studies have repeatedly shown that

breakfast is not just the most important

meal of the day, but it also determines how

the rest of that day will go. A good breakfast

increases energy, aids in weight loss, lifts

your mood, and helps fight off disease and

stress.

On a more sublime note, taking the time

to sit at the breakfast table means taking

stock and preparing for what lies ahead.

Beginning the day face-to-face with loved

ones can remind us of why we work so

hard in the first place. Even a solo breakfast

gives us precious quiet time to think, clear

the mind, and renew the heart, especially

after well-loved rituals or a good work-

out. Whether or not you’re a “champion”

in your field—a prima ballerina, wife, and

mother who balances her time between art

and family, a taekwondo black-belter and

businessman who’s perpetually on the go, a

museum director in constant need of energy

as well as creativity, or anybody for that

matter—we could all benefit from a good

start, so we can all become “champions” in

our own ways.

Breakfast of champions

5sansRival


Lisa’s Breakfast menu

Two medium-sized bananas•

A large mug of brewed •

coffee with cream and sugar

One bowl of slow-cooked •

oatmeal with milk and sugar

One glass of freshly •

squeezed orange juice

(Optional) Leftovers from •

previous night’s dinner

For prima ballerina Lisa Macuja-Elizalde, breakfast

is a most important meal because she considers it

as her “health food” for the day. Indeed, breakfast

gives her energy for the physically strenuous

schedule that awaits her almost on a daily basis. As

the principal ballerina and artistic director of Ballet

Manila, Lisa spends much of her time in the studio

taking ballet classes. It takes even longer than

usual when her company has shows, and she has to

attend rehearsals.

Lisa normally wakes up as early as 6 am, as she

takes it upon herself to take her two kids, Missy and

Manuel, to school. She enjoys what she describes

as a “huge” mug of coffee while the children are

having breakfast. It is when she comes back home

that she eats her own breakfast—or what would

often turn out to be brunch. By that time, her

husband Fred would be awake, and the two of

them spend the rest of the morning together until

she has to attend to her dancing by 1 pm.

The oatmeal and the bananas actually fulfill

crucial roles in maintaining the ballerina’s health.

“I have high cholesterol because of genes I’ve

inherited from my mother’s side of the family.

The oatmeal, fish oil, and exercise keep it in check

without having to drink medicine,” she explains.

“As for the bananas, my doctor recommended this

to me around two years ago in order to prevent

muscle spasms, which had started to occur more

frequently. I guess it’s because of age and the

dancing that I still do. So, I have two bananas daily

to give me the potassium and magnesium I need

for my muscles.”

Sometimes, when she feels particularly hungry,

Lisa asks for other food to be prepared. If there

are leftovers from the night before, these would

be reheated and served to her. But if there’s none,

other light dishes would be cooked.

LISA MACUJA’S energy boosterBy Susan de Guzman

Bananas

Brewed coffee

Freshly-squeezed orange juice

Slow-cooked oatmeal with strawberries and blackberries

8 March 2011


A multi-tasker, she finds it convenient to boot her laptop and get

some tasks done in between taking her oatmeal and bananas.

Normally, she is online answering dozens of e-mails, both

personal and work-related, and posting messages on Facebook.

Conversation is also part of the morning menu. When the kids are

still around, Lisa gets to talk to them about school, current events,

ballet, and video games, not to mention the pluses and minuses of

various iPad applications. Lisa says she practically covers the same

ground with Fred, except for the computer stuff.

“Usually what Fred and I end up discussing would be travel and

vacation plans, family matters, and unavoidably, business matters.

I am like Fred’s secretary in the office. I do lots of phone calls and

even e-mails for him,” says Lisa.

Speaking of vacation, does she get to take the same “healthy”

breakfast when she is on a trip? Lisa sheepishly admits that when

she’s off from dancing and doesn’t have to be conscious of her

healthy diet, she gives herself some treats. “I skip the oatmeal for

Eggs Benedict, salmon with cream cheese on a bagel, and cheese

omelets—my favorite breakfast foods—especially since they

are usually on the menus of the hotels we stay in. I tend to do

comparison eating.”

But there’s no other “sinful” breakfast than the one Lisa indulges

in after a performance when it’s a day off from dancing. “I am

normally famished in the morning after a performance, and I treat

myself to my cheeseburger and fries. In fact, my staff anticipates

this already—as long as I’ve had a performance, they already

know I will want my cheeseburger and fries the next day,” Lisa

says.

The “fast-food combo” is a far cry from the Russian breakfast that

Lisa got used to as a student in St. Petersburg and later, as a soloist

of the Kirov Ballet. Back then, morning fare would consist of a

modest toast, butter, and cheese and a cup of coffee. Sometimes,

when it was available, she would have salami or sausage. “This

was a typical Russian breakfast for me, because of the speed and

convenience in preparing it and the availability. I avoided cooking

on the stove when I was in Russia,” the ballerina says laughingly.

Today, Lisa’s breakfast is capped by a vitamin “cocktail” that

includes fish oil, glucosamine, multi-vitamins, anti-oxidants,

vitamin B-complex, and vitamin C, as advised by her doctor. Her

choice items for breakfast, along with the vitamin supplements,

jumpstart Lisa’s morning, and get her ready to face the physical

challenges of each day.

I skip the oatmeal for Eggs Benedict, salmon with cream cheese on a bagel, and cheese omelets—my favorite breakfast foods—especially since they are usually on the menus of the hotels we stay in. I tend to do comparison eating

The prima ballerina Lisa Macuja-Elizalde on her toes

9sansRival


Chicken longganisa (P206.00/kilo)

Chicken inasal cut ups (P186.00/klo)

Peppered chicken breast fillet (P250.00/kilo)

Pork chop, boneless/skinless (P244.00/ kilo)

Prosciutto Marchigiano from Le Margie’ (P147.50/100g, available only in Rustan’s Supermarket branches in Shangri-La, Makati, and Rockwell)

Chicken tocino (P215.00/kilo)

Aussie Fresh breakfast steak (P389.00/kilo)

17sansRival


Breakfast at Benny’s

This favorite hangout at Rustan’s Makati offers all kinds of fuel to start your day, from the light to the hearty

Whole wheat pancakes

20 March 2011


cheese and served with a generous helping

of salsa are served on a sizzling plate. An

order comes with tortillas. The combination

of eggs and cheese is a wake-upper, while

the salsa of chopped tomatoes, onions, and

peppers adds a spicy touch to this treat. An

order is good for one, but you can easily

share the eggs with a companion.

For those who want something traditional,

there is a choice between an egg or two-

eggs Benedict. Sliced ham is served on an

English muffin and topped with a poached

egg and served with a generous helping

of Hollandaise sauce. The egg, or eggs if

you go for the two-egg order, is simply

delightful, poached just right to set the egg

white. When you slice through it with your

knife, the yolk simply bursts on your plate.

Mix it with the Hollandaise sauce, and you

have a mouth-watering mouthful.

If you want a real omelet, there’s a choice

between the two- and three-egg omelet

with your preferred choice of filling. But if

you want a heavy rice meal, then the Beef

Tapa is it. It comes with a cup of garlic rice, a

fried egg, and relish. The usual continental,

American, and Filipino breakfasts are also

available. JOC

Benny’s is located at Rustan’s Makati

Supermarket. Breakfast is served from 7 am

to 10 am.

WE all know that breakfast is the most

important meal of the day. It breaks the

previous night’s fast and jumpstarts the

body with nutrients needed to fuel it until

lunchtime. If you skip breakfast, you end up

overeating later in the day. Yes, it fills you

up, but over time, this could result in extra

weight.

The demands of a hectic lifestyle often

lead to us cutting out breakfast from the

day’s meals. Usually, a cup of coffee will

suffice. Instead, we compensate for the lost

morning meal with a filling mid-morning

snack or simply indulge in a heavy lunch.

It works, but nutritionists warn against it,

because you often end up making unhealthy

choices at lunch.

Harried office workers are nowadays spoiled

for choices when it comes to breakfast. A

number of fast-food chains offer breakfast

meals. But these on-the-go meals that you

can down in just a couple of minutes tend

to be the same old thing.

Those who have a little more time and want

a healthy and hearty treat in the morning

will find delightful choices on the breakfast

menu at Benny’s, the restaurant at Rustan’s

Makati Supermarket. From 7 am to 10 am,

it serves the usual breakfast meals, as well

as a selection that is worlds away from the

usual tapsilog combo.

If you are watching your weight, it offers

healthy choices that will have you smiling

with each bite.

Pancake lovers can munch on Whole Wheat

Pancakes. An order comes with three

pancakes, light syrup, and a pat of butter.

And since whole-wheat flour is used, you

are sure to get nutrients such as calcium,

iron, fiber, and minerals like selenium in

a jiffy. But the healthy qualities of whole-

wheat flour do not detract from the flavor

of the pancakes. They are still light and

fluffy, just like ordinary pancakes.

For those who must have eggs for breakfast

but are mindful of their cholesterol and fat

intake, the Egg White Omelet is for you.

Minced herbs and spices are added to the

egg whites to give them flavor. This dish

comes with slices of turkey ham, which is

the choice of many dieters. No, the omelet

does not taste like paper. The herbs give it

a unique flavor that you do not get from a

regular omelet, as well as little of the egg

taste from the yolks.

And for those who want something really

light, a fruit platter is also available.

For those who must have the real thing,

Benny’s also serves hearty breakfast meals

to delight morning persons. Its Huevos

Rancheros is a simplified version of this

Tex-Mex classic. Two fried eggs topped with

Eggs Benedict

21sansRival


Break out the bubbly for breakfast

Bellini

6oz Prosecco1 shot peach schnapps

D’Artagnan

½ shot Armagnac½ shot Grand Marnier

1 shot orange juice½ tsp sugar syrup

Champagne

Few things are more indulgent than a flute of champagne

or a mimosa with your breakfast of fresh warm pancakes

topped with strawberries. Does this sound special

already? Champagne or other sparkling wines have the

effervescence and slight acidity to bring out the best in

rich entrées like Eggs Benedict, as well as staples like ham,

sausages, and prosciutto.

Champagne breakfasts are popular among close friends

and family. It’s a great way to start a very special day like

a birthday, an anniversary, or the day of a much-deserved

promotion. It may be part of any day or outing considered

particularly luxurious or indulgent. The accompanying

breakfast includes rich foods such as salmon, caviar,

chocolate, pastries, or other courses, which would not

ordinarily be eaten at breakfast.

The breakfast can be served as part of a treat to honor

a special person, such as mothers and fathers, or as a

celebration of an event or achievement. A champagne

breakfast was even fed to Red Marauder when the horse

won the Grand National. It may be a tradition at some

colleges for graduation, such as Wells College. People may

be feted at a champagne breakfast as part of winning a

competition.

Usually served at 10 am, a traditional champagne breakfast

would consist of an entrée like a low-fat yogurt with

fruits and crunchy granola and muesli sprinkled on top,

and a main course like crispy rashers of bacon with fried

tomatoes and eggs. Cap this off with a small selection of

hard and soft cheeses and dry biscuits. Don’t forget to

have regular tea and brewed coffee on hand.

Several bubbly options other than the standard

champagne-based cocktails can also be prepared. Here are

some of them.

Zonin Prosecco750 ml (P639.00)

Dom Perignon750 ml (P7,980.00)

28 March 2011


Kir Royale

½ shot Creme de Cassis

Champagne

Mimosa

1 shot Orange Juice3 oz. Champagne

Tokyo Spring

1 shot Midori½ shot lime juice

Champagne

Veuve ChabertBrut Rose

750 ml (P2,395.00)

Veuve ClicquotPonsardin Brut

750 ml (P3,150.00)

Perrier Jouet Brut

750 ml (P3,200.00)

29sansRival


Maiden issue, March 2011 Breakfast of Champions

26

Brie de Meaux P189.75 per 100g

Malagos Davao Blue P229.90 per 100g

Port Salut P212.17 per 100g

French Roquefort 227.17 per 100g

Gruyere block P121.62 per 100g

Manchego Curado P237.10 per 100g

Top cheeseThe list of indulgent food is not

complete without these flavorful artisanal appetizers

Rustans is committed to bringing quality, handmade,

artisanal cheese products to the Philippines by forging links

directly with producers from Italy, France, and Spain, as well as

local producers like the Malagos cheese makers from Davao.

One way of presenting and appreciating cheese is to make a Cheese

Platter. There are no hard and fast rules, but the guiding principles in

choosing for your platter are color, contrast, and of course, availability.

Serve with dried fruits like apricots and fresh grapes, nuts like almonds

and walnuts, and quality breads like baguettes or crackers.

Brie de Meaux was declared Le Roi des Fromages (The King of Cheese) in

1814 in the Congress of Vienna. Brie is a popular soft cheese made from

pasteurized cow’s milk. It delivers a combination of tastes, from hazelnut to fruit.

It is normally served as a dessert with cranberry compote or as a savory croissant

sandwich filling with ham. It can also be eaten alone, with champagne or red

burgundy.

Malagos Davao Blue Goat Cheese is a rich and creamy young goat cheese mildly aged

with blue mold. Mixing blue mold into the curd gives it its color. As the cheese ages,

the flavor is enhanced. Most goat milk blues are pungent and earthier in taste and

smell than cow’s milk blues.

Gruyere Cheese is a Swiss cheese variety that is quite nutty, salty, and with a

pungent aroma; it is rubbery in texture, with a sharp and pronounced earthy flavor.

It is a sought-after cooking cheese used for sauces, fondue, and soufflés. It goes

well with grapes and tomatoes, washed down with Pinot Grigio.

Port Salut was originally invented by Trappist monks during the 19th century

at the Abbey of Notre Dame du Port du Salute. It is a mature, semi-soft

pasteurized cow’s milk with a distinctive orange crust and a mild flavor. It goes

very well with green grapes and Sauvignon Blanc.

French Roquefort is a ripe cheese that is crumbly, tangy, and slightly moist,

with a characteristic fermented odor and flavor. The green veins provide a

sharp tang. Flavors range from mild, to sweet, smoky, and salty. Crumbled

Roquefort can be sprinkled in lieu of salt and pepper over a salad of lettuce

and arugula.

The Manchego Curado is a mature and an unpasteurized ewe’s milk that

comes from Cuenca in La Mancha. This cheese is known for its subtle

and complex flavor. Semi-hard, bordering on being soft, it has a clean,

buttery, and intense flavor. It’s best taken with Red Tempranillo or

Rioja wines, with olives and pickled onions.

Ambrosia for allThe love for chocolate is something everyone shares, from the connoisseur with a discerning sweet tooth to the scholarly foodie with a sense of history

Our favorite naturalist and botanist Carl Linnaeus, in his

groundbreaking manuscript Systema Naturae, called it

cacao Theobroma, while a certain Bachot in a medical

thesis published in 1685 wrote that cocoa, and not

ambrosia, must have been the food of gods.

The cacao plant is native to South America, both on the

islands and on the continent. Chocolate was brought into

Spain in the 17th century, and instantly gained popularity

because of its extremely strong flavor. Chocolate moved to

the mountainous frontiers with Louis XIII’s wife, Anne of

Austria.

Chocolate candy, as we indulge in it today, began its long

and colorful history in 1770, when the first industrial

chocolate manufacturing company was set up, Chocolats

et Thes Pelletier & Compagnie. Van Houten later opened

in Amsterdam in 1815. Cailler, another company, was set

up in Vevey, Switzerland in 1819. Suchard followed and

opened in Neuchatel. The first true chocolate factories,

however, were those of Menier in the Paris region, first

opened in 1824.

Chocolate candy bars are a mixture of cocoa paste, cocoa

butter, and sugar with other delicious optional additions

such as milk, dried fruits, nuts, coffee, and liqueurs. It can

be molded or filled with confectionery products such as

fondant, caramel, praline, and marzipan.

18 19March 2011 sansRival18 19March 2011 sansRival

The global pantry

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A serious foodie’s pantry should

be brimming with epicurean

essentials that, in a flash, one

could use to whip up something

delicious and totally enchanting.

Whether it be a midnight craving for

a wood-smoked brisling sardines

on a cracker eaten in solitude; or

perhaps, pomodoro-basilico sauce

poured over a big bowl of pasta.

Having your son’s basketball team

over on short notice? A well-chosen,

well-stocked pantry can solve your

culinary woes, and even extend your

menu cycle, so much so that people

might even suspect you’re running a

Michelin-starred restaurant!

Start with the basics, and

eventually build up on flavors and

regional groupings. Follow your

taste buds; start with Asian, like

light soy sauce, panko, and mirin.

Eventually, try products from Italy

and the Mediterranean, and sooner

or later, you could be experimenting

with cross-flavors like pasta with

mushroom and hoisin sauce, fuelled

with harrisa, the Tunisian chili paste

that comes in a tube. Not a bad idea

at all.

1. Kikkoman Panko Bread Crumbs2. Bottarga Di Tonno3. Colavita spaghetti4. Full Circle organic extra virgin oil5. Daimir Bacalao a la Viscaina6. Sriracha chili sauce7. La Corvine anchovy fillets8. Datu Puti light soy sauce9. Borges vinegre de jerez10. Crown Prince one layer brisling

sardines11. Pan Salt12. Harissa le phare du cap bon de

Tunisie13. H&S dried mushroom14. Lee Kum Kee hoisin sauce15. Black sesame oil16. Mitsukan hon mirin17. Muscovdo organic raw sugar18. Carmencita sea salt with herbs19. Kewpie mayonnaise20. Full Circle organic minestrone21. Full Circle organic cream of mush-

room22. Pamora farm chicken liver pate23. Molinera curshed tomatoes24.Mezzetta horse radish


Beer and nuts used to be a favorite staple, when it was just television and the couch, but not any more. Now, the active couch potato leads a more diverse life than a generation ago: there’s television, the Internet, video, iPads, iPods, smart phones—it’s a technology-based society.

The active couch potato

Tostitos tortilla chips Natural Blue Corn, Restaurant Style, and Hint of Lime

Tostitos Creamy spinach dip

Stella Artois, Pxxxx San Miguel, Pxxxx Corona Extra, Pxxxx Heineken, Pxxxx


With such a selection of passive and interactive activity in front of your couch, the cravings for munchies have also gone beyond the more plebeian and predictable. The active couch potato still gets a great deal of satisfaction from watching television, but keeps physically fit—and appreciates the luxury of downtime with only the best snacks.

Tostitos Chunky salsa dip Oishi Gourmet Picks and Salt and Vinegar potato chips Oishi Baconette strips

Martinelli’s, Pxxxx S. Pellerino, Pxxxx Rootbeer, Pxxxx


27

Italian Food Festival

5. Refine and redefine your work-flow.

Volume 1 • No. 3 • June - July 2011

The world’s most popular food


28

Volume 1 • No. 5 • July-August 2011

From India to your kitchen


COMPARED to that of our other South East Asian neighbors

like Singapore, Malaysia, and Indonesia, the Filipino palate

still needs to be educated when it comes to Indian cuisine.

I’ve interviewed friends, and the verdict is 50-50—it’s

either they hate it or they love it. There is no middle

ground, and no such thing as indifference.

I personally adore Indian food. The strong aroma and

the layers of flavors definitely send me into orbit. The very

first Indian restaurant I went to in Manila was Kashmir

on Padre Faura. Kashmir was my soft introduction to

the various nuances of Indian cuisine via their curries,

chutneys, and chapatis. Joseph Cortes had a conversation

with Indra Mirchandani about this 36-year-old, Manila

culinary institution.

My predilection for curry opened my taste buds to the

different curries not just of India, but of Penang, Malacca,

Colombo, Bangkok, Singapore, Java, and Kuala Lumpur,

which offer a spectrum of flavors and experiences.

My other favorite Indian restaurant, started as a hole

in the wall along Buendia Avenue; today, the New Bombay

Cuisine (formerly Canteen) has grown into a popular haunt

for office workers and Pinoy foodies alike. Tracey Pasca

talked to Rainy Khanchandani about how Bombay Cuisine

promotes Indian food to the local market.

In sansRival Recommends, Rustan’s Supermarket

ensures that the primary ingredients for Indian cuisine, like

hard-to-find spices, are made available for you. Plus, we

offer more than 20 popular Indian recipes, from chicken

tikka masala to rogan josh, to make at home.

Our resident food stylist Sandee Masigan painstakingly

did our cover design for this issue; the design is based on

the Rangoli pattern used during the Diwali Festival. Rangoli

design is created on doorsteps to welcome everybody.

Although Rangoli usually features a specific color pattern

for each region, we decided to use colored rice, grains,

pulses, and seed spices to come up with our version.

The Diwali Festival or “Festival of Lights” is one of

the biggest festivals of the Hindus, celebrated with great

enthusiasm and happiness. On this auspicious day, people

light oil lamps and candles all around their house. And

with this, like the lights of Diwali, we hope sansRival

will enlighten us, and help us to better understand and

appreciate the nuances and finer points of Indian cuisine.

Have a great Indian Food Festival!

Editor-in-Chief Ige Ramos Managing Editor Glenna AquinoAssociate Editor Roda Masinag Art Director Joan SoroPhotography Stanley OngFood Stylist Sandee MasiganContributing Editors Joseph Cortes

Alya HonasanTracey Paska

Proofreader Bernie C. LizardoManagement LDV and Associates

Gastronomy Consultant Beth Romualdez

Rustan Supercenters, Inc.

Ambassador Bienvenido R. Tantoco, Sr.Chairman Emeritus, RSCI

Bienvenido R. Tantoco, Jr.Chairman

President & CEO Donnie V. TantocoChief Operating Officer Patrick SimonVP Marketing Division Frances J. YuAVP Marketing Division Aggie G. ArtadiAd & Promo Manager Tet F. BachmannAd & Promo Head Pinky LimAd & Promo Coordinator Vangie S. Isla

Published every 15th of the month by Rustan Supercenters, Inc. 4th floor, Morning Star Center347 Sen. Gil Puyat Ave., Makati CityTelefax: 899-1915Website: www.rustansfresh.comE-mail: [email protected]

Follow us on Twitter at http://twitter.com/rustansfresh and like us on Facebook at http://www.facebook.com/rustansfresh

Rustan’s sansRival magalogue is distributed for free to Fresh Shopping Rewards and Star Sapphire card members.

Copyright ©2011 Rustan Supercenters, Inc. All rights reserved. Neither this publication nor any part of it may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means—electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise — without the prior permission of sansRival magalogue.

All information is correct at the time of printing.Prices are subject to change without prior notice.

Rustan’s Supermarket • Greenbelt 1 • Makati-Glorietta • Rockwell • Shangri-La Plaza • Gateway Mall • Corinthian Hills • Katipunan • San Antonio • Tomas Morato • Magallanes • Fairview • Ayala Center, Cebu • Banawa, Cebu


Spices and lightsVol. 1 • No. 5 • July-August 2011

2 3July-August 2011 sansRival

mainCourse | The real deal 4The Kashmir store at Rustan’s Supermarket offers delicious frozen dinners, or you can also try Indian food at Kashmir, the pioneer Indian restaurant in the country

sansRival recommends | Essential Indian ingredients 6An introduction into the rich and colorful spices and ingredients of Indian cuisine

mainCourse | A flavorful tour of India 10Tracey Paska sits down to a meal with Rainy Khanchamdani of New Bombay anddiscovers how they are making Indian flavors more enticing to the Filipino palate

sansRival recipes | Starters 14 Naan Bread, Palak Paneer, Vegetable Pakoras, Nargesi Kofta

| Salad and Condiments 16 Mango Chutney, Fresh Mango and Chili Relish, Cucumber and Yoghurt Raita, Fresh Mint and Chili Sambal Rojak (Spicy fruit and vegetable salad)

| Vegetable, Rice and Pulses 18 Mixed Dhal, Cardamom-spiced Pilaf with Pistachios, Vegetable Curry and Vegetable Biryani

| Chicken 20 Chicken Tikka Masala, Murg Makhani (Butter Chicken), Korma Curry

| Beef 22 Madras Beef Curry, Xacutti (Goan Curry), Rogan Josh

| Seafood 24 Bengal Prawn Masala, Goa Fish Curry

sansRival recommends | Yoh-Frozen Yoghurt 26 The hottest cold frozen delight is also a low calorie treat!Make your own Indian Lassi yoghurt-based drink

grapeVine | The spirit of India 28You don’t have to visit to India to try some of the top Indian beer, whisky and gin, because Rustan’s Supermarket has already brought them for you

topShelf 29 Rustan’s Supermarket recommends quality brands for our discerning customers

Cover: Indian Rangoli pattern used on doorsteps of homes to welcome family and friends during the Diwali, the festival of lights

from the editor’s table

Essential Indian ingredients

6 7sansRival 7sansRivalJuly-August 2011

Mundal

White Sesame Seeds (Til Safid)

Almonds (Badam)

Whole Fenugreek (Methi seeds)

Mustard Seeds (Aur)

Pistachio with shells (Dodi)

White Dal (Urad)

Tuldal

Black Sesame Seeds (Til Kala)

Cashew (Kaju)

Black Dal (Urad) Cheradal

Cardamom (Choti Elaischi)

Cloves (Laung)

Ground Coriander (Dana)

Cumin (Jeera Seeds)

Onion Seeds (Kalonji)

Ground Chili (Mirch Lal)

Carom Seeds (Ajwain)

Fennel Seeds (Saunf)

Black Salt (Namak Kala)

Garam Masala Powder

Ground Cinnamon (Dalchini Powder) Star Anise

Spices are like musical notes that create melodies. Depending on the combination of different notes, these melodies, when combined, will translate into texture or consistency, taste , color, and flavor.

June-July 2011 9sansRival8 July-August 2011 9sansRival8

Coconut

Raisins (Kismis)

Cashew (Kaju)

Almonds (Badam)

Star Anise

Tuldal

Pure gee

Ginger

Tamarind

Basmati rice

Turmeric

Red and green chili peppers

Garlic

Shallots

Punjabi Masala Special Papad

Moong Papad

Coriander

Mint

Basil

Essential Indian ingredients

The balance of fresh ingredients combined with the relative proportion of spices is the alchemy that gives Indian cuisine its complex taste and flavor.

Naan Bread Originally from Persia, naan or “bread-food” is a generic

term for various flatbreads known in the Middle East

and India. It is leavened flatbread, traditionally baked

by slapping the dough on the side of a tandoor, a hot

dome-shaped clay oven. The dough’s weight would

normally cause it to fall into a teardrop shape, which is the

recognizable form of naan bread; however, with changes

in the baking process, such that there are now different

varieties that are readily produced. As most kitchens don’t

have a stone plate to cook on, the baking trays need to be

very hot to help cook the naan properly.

Ingredients2 cups plain flour3/4 cup, warm water2 tbsp oil2 ½ tbsp Greek or natural yoghurt1 tsp salt1 tsp yeast1 tsp sugarA pinch of baking powder1 tsp Nigella (kalunji) seeds (optional)

ProcedureMix yeast with water in a bowl and set aside. Sift flour and add salt, sugar, baking powder, and Nigella seeds, and mix together. Add yoghurt and mix together; add water with yeast and mix. Form the dough by kneading on a floured surface. Place dough back in bowl and proof in a warm place, covered with a cloth, for four hours or until dough rises well. Preheat oven to 230-240°C. Place two flat, non-stick baking trays in oven to heat as well. Divide dough into 6 equal parts and roll into rectangles about 6 mm thick. Before placing the dough in the oven, wet fingertips with water and pat very lightly on the dough. Bake until golden spots appear and the dough is cooked. Spread some garlic butter on to the warm bread or serve plain.

Palak PaneerPaneer is a young, fresh Indian cottage cheese.

It is similar to fresh mozzarella, except it has no

added salt and doesn’t melt easily. It is prepared

by curding, basically adding an acidic substance

like lemon to the milk. Paneer is so versatile that it

can be used as a main ingredient in starters, main

courses, and desserts. In India, paneer is considered

a celebratory food; it is served during special

occasions, as well as a special treat for the family,

from time to time.

Ingredients2 large bunches of spinach 200 g cottage cheese (paneer) 2-3 pcs green chilies 8-10 cloves garlic 3 tbsp oil ½ tsp cumin seeds Salt to taste1 tbsp lemon juice 4 tbsp fresh cream

ProcedureRemove stems, and wash spinach thoroughly in running water. Blanche in salted boiling water for two minutes. Refresh in chilled water. Squeeze out excess water. Remove stems, wash, and roughly chop green chilies. Grind spinach into a fine paste along with green chilies. Dice paneer into one inch-by-one inch pieces. Peel, wash, and chop garlic. Heat oil in a pan. Add cumin seeds. When they begin to change color, add chopped garlic and sauté for half a minute. Add the spinach purée and stir. Check seasoning. Add water if required. When the gravy comes to a boil, add the paneer and mix well. Stir in lemon juice. Finally, add fresh cream. Serve hot.

Vegetable PakorasPakoras are usually served as snacks or appetizers. In the UK, pakoras are

popular fast-food snacks as they are available in most Indian take-away

places. It is also a tastier alternative to French fries. Similar to vegetable

tempura, pakoras can be made with different vegetables, which are dipped

in a spicy besan (gram flour) batter and deep-fried. Pakoras are delicious

when paired with a cup of hot, spicy Indian chai.

Ingredients3/4 cup chickpea (besan or gram) flour ¼ cup self-raising flour 2 tsp ground cumin 1 tsp, garam masala ½ tsp chili powder ¼ tsp ground turmeric1 tsp salt2 cloves garlic, crushed3/4 cup water, approximately1 cup, broccoli florets 1 cup, cauliflower florets 1 small eggplant, sliced thinly2 medium zucchini, sliced thinlyVegetable oil for deep-frying

ProcedureSift flours, spices, and salt into medium bowl. Add garlic and whisk in enough water to make a thick batter. Cover and refrigerate for 30 minutes. Boil or steam broccoli and cauliflower separately, until just tender. Rinse under cold water, pat dry with absorbent papers. Wash the eggplant and zucchini, pat dry with kitchen towels or clean cloth. Heat oil in large saucepan. Dip vegetables pieces, one at a time, into the batter and drain away the excess. Deep-fry vegetables, in batches, in hot oil, until lightly browned and crisp. Drain on absorbent paper towels. Serve with Yogurt Mint Dipping Sauce.

Yoghurt Mint Dipping SauceIngredients2 tbsp bottled mint jelly¼ cup yoghurt1 red chili, chopped finely

ProcedureCombine ingredients in small bowl; cover, refrigerate for at least one hour..

Nargesi Kofta The word kofta is derived from the Persian

kūfta, which means to grind, or referring to

a meatball. In India, koftas come in different

varieties. The simplest form is a ball of

minced meat usually made with beef or

lamb, or the vegetarian variety like shahi

aloo kofta, or rich potato balls in gravy. This

particular recipe is hard-boiled egg encased

in spiced, minced meat, nargesi, which

means egg wrapped in kofta. The British

dish “Scotch eggs” was apparently inspired

by nargesi kofta.

Ingredients12 pcs quail eggs, hard-boiled and shelled450 g beef, double minced1 tbsp curry powder 1 tsp salt3 tbsp chopped fresh coriander3 cloves garlic, crushed1 egg, beaten1 tbsp ground cumin2 tbsp chickpea flourOil for frying

ProcedureBlend together the beef with remaining ingredients. Divide the mixture into 12 equal portions. Place a quail egg in the center of each portion and shape mixture around the egg. Shallow or deep-fry koftas in vegetable oil for 3-4 minutes, until they are rich brown in color. Drain on kitchen towels. Serve as a cocktail snack with coriander and mint chutney, or with a spicy tomato sauce.

July-August 2011 15sansRival14

Cardamom-Spiced Pilaf with PistachiosPilaf is a dish in which rice is cooked in a

seasoned stock or broth. In some cases, the

rice gets its brown color by being stirred with

bits of burned onions, as well as a mix of spices.

The English term pilaf is borrowed directly

from Turkish, which in turn comes from Hindi

and Sanskrit. This rice preparation is known

throughout the Middle East, Central Asia, and

the entire Indian subcontinent.

Ingredients2 tbsp ghee 2 tsp cardamom seeds1 medium brown onion (150g), chopped

finely1 clove garlic, crushed1 tsp grated fresh ginger2 curry leaves, torn1 red chili, finely chopped 2 cups basmati rice, washed and drained4 cups chicken stock ½ cup shelled pistachios2 tbsp finely chopped fresh mint leaves

ProcedureHeat ghee in medium saucepan, cook seeds and stir until they begin to pop. Add onion, cook and stir until onion is soft. Add garlic, ginger, curry leaves, and chili, stirring until fragrant. Add rice and stir for one minute. Add stock, bring to a boil; reduce heat, simmer, covered tightly, for about 20 minutes or until rice is just tender and all the liquid has been absorbed. Remove from heat, fluff rice with a fork, stir in pistachios and mint; let stand, covered, for five minutes.

Vegetable BiryaniBiryani is a set of rice-based foods made with spices,

basmati rice, and meat, fish, eggs, or vegetables. Originally,

the unwashed rice is fried in ghee, giving it a nutty flavor.

It is then boiled in water with spices until half cooked. The

traditional ingredients added to the rice are cauliflower,

carrots, peas, sweet bell peppers, and green beans. Biryani is

derived from the Persian word “birian,” which means fried or

roasted. Local variations of this dish are not only popular in

South Asia, but also in the Middle East.

Vegetable Curry The secret to a successful curry of any kind is the

use of onion as a thickening agent. The proportion

of onion to the main ingredient of the curry is

important, because this will determine the sweet

element in the taste as well as the thickness of the

gravy.

Ingredientsfor the Curry Paste½ cup freshly grated coconut4 fresh hot green chilies2 tbsp white poppy seeds1 ¼ tsp salt

3 tbsp oil for frying3 medium-sized red onions½ medium-sized eggplant, sliced2 small carrots, peeled and cut in small pieces1 cup peas1 cup French beans, cut into 1-inch pieces1 medium head cauliflower, broken into florets1 medium-sized potato, peeled and cubed3 medium-sized tomatoes, roughly chopped1 tbsp natural plain yoghurt1 tsp garam masala2 tbsp chopped fresh green coriander

ProcedureCombine the coconut, chilies, poppy seeds, and salt in the container of an electric blender. Add half-cup of water and grind to a fine paste. Set aside. In a little vegetable oil, fry the onions gently for 10 minutes in a large pan, then add the remaining vegetables and stir together. Add the curry paste and simmer gently for around 15-20 minutes, taking care not to overcook the vegetables. If the sauce becomes too thick, add a little water to give the desired consistency. Now add the tomatoes, the yoghurt, and the garam masala. Stir gently to mix well. Bring to a boil and simmer gently for another five minutes. Turn into a serving dish and garnish the vegetable curry with fresh coriander.

ProcedureWash the basmati rice well before cooking. In a stock pan, place the rice with 3 3/4 cups water, with a little salt and 2 tablespoons of dried fruits and bring to a boil. Once it reaches the boiling point, turn down the heat in the stove’s minimum setting until all the liquid in the rice is absorbed. Set aside the cooked rice. Cut all the vegetables into small thin pieces and fry each one separately in oil, including the green peas. Put 1 tbsp oil in a pan and add mustard seeds, green chili, cinnamon, caraway seeds powder, cloves, and black pepper powder, and stir for about half a minute. Then add onions and sauté for a minute or until they are translucent. Add salt and red chili powder and stir. Add finely chopped tomatoes and fry until properly cooked. Add yoghurt and stir. Cook for another 10 seconds and add all the fried vegetables. Combine with the cooked rice and mix well but very gently so that the rice grain doesn’t break. Cook for about three minutes more. Serve on a serving dish and garnish with dry fruits and green coriander leaves. Serve hot with raita and chutney.

Ingredients2 cups basmati rice 3 tbsp dry fruits (cashew

nuts, sultanas and raisins)

1 cup mixed vegetables (cauliflower, potato, carrot, French beans)

150 g green peas 3 onions, finely sliced2 green chilies, finely

sliced1 tsp red chili powder

2 tsp cinnamon 2 tsp caraway seeds 4 cloves ½ tsp black pepper

powder 4 tomatoes ½ cup yoghurt or paneer

curd4 tbsp vegetable oil ½ tsp mustard seeds coriander leaves Salt to taste

Mixed DhalAn important part of Indian cuisine, dhal is a preparation

of dried lentils, peas, or beans, which have been stripped

of their outer hulls and split. It also refers to the thick stew

prepared from these. Dhal is regularly eaten with naan,

roti, a wheat-based flatbread, rice, and vegetables. It is

recommended for vegetarians, as dhal is a ready source of

protein for a balanced diet containing no meat.

Ingredients½ cup yellow split peas½ cup red lentils½ cup split mung beans2 tbsp ghee3 tsp black mustard seeds½ tsp black onion seeds2 medium brown onions, chopped finely4 cloves garlic, crushed1 tbsp grated fresh ginger1 tbsp ground cumin3 tsp ground coriander1 tsp ground turmeric1 tsp chili powder2 x 400 g cans tomatoes2 ½ cups vegetable stock½ tsp cracked black pepper½ cupream2 tbsp finely chopped fresh coriander leaves

ProcedureRinse peas, lentils, and beans separately in cold water then drain. Place yellow split peas in small bowl, cover with water, stand for 30 minutes and drain. Heat ghee in large heavy-base saucepan, cook seeds and stir until they start to pop. Add onions garlic, and ginger, cook and stir until onions are browned lightly. Add ground spices, cook and stir for one minute. Add split peas, lentils, beans, crushed tomatoes (do not drain), and stock. Simmer, covered, for about 30 minutes or until red lentils are tender. Just before serving, add remaining ingredients, then stir over low heat until just heated through.


Chicken Tikka MasalaTikka is the Hindi word for small bits or pieces. The authentic

chicken tikka masala is prepared with pieces of chicken

marinated in yoghurt and spices, and grilled over a charcoal

fire to give it a lovely smokey flavor. The chicken tikka masala

we know today is a curry dish in which roasted chicken chunks

(tikka) are served in a rich orange, creamy, lightly spiced, tomato-

based sauce. The origins of chicken tikka masala are disputed.

The oldest claim is that it was created for the Mughal Empire in

pre-British India. Another story has it that chicken tikka masala

was actually created in the United Kingdom in the 1960s when

a diner in a restaurant demanded some spicy gravy on the dry

chicken dish served to him. The chef improvised by adding a

tin of Campbell’s tomato soup, yoghurt, and some spices to

the dry chicken dish. The diner enjoyed it, and the first chicken

tikka masala with gravy was born. Thus did it become England’s

unofficial national dish.

Ingredients600g boneless, skinless chicken cut in 1-inch cubes

Marinade1 cup plain yoghurt 2 tbsp lemon juice 2 tsp ground cumin 2 tsp ground red pepper 2 tsp black pepper 1 tsp cinnamon 1 tsp salt 1 piece minced ginger6 bamboo skewers

Korma CurryThe Moghul Empire was responsible for

establishing royal court cuisine in India.

Centuries later, court cuisine trickled

down to the masses of northern India,

and korma curry became the by-product

of this fusion. Not as intimidating and hot

as the curries from the south, korma curry

has a sweet flavor, with a subtle hint of

spices, because it is prepared with cream,

yoghurt, fruit, and nuts. This soft, easy-

eating curry has a delicate tang that can be

a good introduction to Indian cuisine for

the uninitiated.

IngredientsVegetable oil 1 large onion 3 tbsp tomato paste 400g chicken breast 1 tbsp grated ginger 2 fresh bay leaves ½ tsp ground turmeric ½ tsp ground coriander ½ ground chili (or more, depending

on how hot you want this to be)3 pieces cardamom seed pods ½ tsp ground fennel 2 cinnamon sticks 1 tbsp Madras curry paste* 2 tbsp korma curry paste** 250 ml coconut milk Basmati rice, butter, salt, a few

leaves of fresh coriander

ProcedureChop the onions and garlic and press the cardamom pods. Cut the chicken into small cubes, and marinate in a little vegetable oil and a tablespoon of Madras curry paste. Heat the pan and sauté the onions. Add the tomato paste, korma curry paste, and chopped garlic. When the pastes are well blended, add the grated ginger together with the rest of the spices,

Sauce1 tbsp unsalted butter 2 garlic cloves, minced 2 green pepper, minced 2 tsp ground coriander 1 tsp ground cumin 1 tsp chili powder 1 tsp garam masala ½ tsp salt 1 can tomato sauce 1 cup yoghurt ¼ cup chopped

fresh coriander

except the coriander. Stir and move onions and spices to the side of the pan. Add a little butter and sauté chicken for a minute. Then add coconut milk and about half as much water as the milk. Stir and let simmer until done. Touch and taste occasionally; the longer you let the spices simmer, the richer the taste. Cook the rice to your liking (a little hint: when the water has reached the level of the rice while cooking, add a tablespoon of butter, then cover again). Serve and decorate with fresh coriander.

Butter Chicken (Murg Makhani)Butter chicken is among the best-known Indian foods all over

the world. Its gravy can be made as hot or mild as you like, so

it suits most palates. Also commonly known as murg makhani,

butter chicken tastes great with kaali dhal (black lentils), naan,

and a green salad. It is best to cook this dish a day before it is

served.

Ingredients ½ cup, natural yoghurt 1 tbsp lemon juice 1 tsp turmeric 2 tsp garam masala 1 tsp chili powder 1 tsp ground cumin 2 tsp grated fresh ginger 2 garlic cloves, crushed 1 kg chicken breast fillets, chopped 125 g cashews, roasted 60 g unsalted butter 1 tbsp sunflower oil 1 onion, finely chopped 1 tsp ground cardamom 1 cinnamon stick 1 Indian bay leaf 2 tsp sweet paprika 425 g can tomato purée (not tomato paste)½ cup chicken stock 1 cup thickened cream Steamed basmati rice, to serve

ProcedureCombine yoghurt, lemon juice, turmeric, garam masala, chili, cumin, ginger, and garlic in a bowl. Add chicken and stir well. Cover and refrigerate overnight. Reserve half the cashews and place remaining cashews in a food processor. Process until finely ground. Heat the butter and oil in a pan over medium heat. Add the onion, cardamom, cinnamon, and bay leaf and cook for two minutes, until the onion starts to soften. Reduce heat to low, add chicken and marinade, paprika, tomato puree, cashew powder, and stock. Simmer for 15 minutes. Stir in cream and cook for a further 10 minutes. Garnish with cashews and chopped coriander and serve with rice.

ProcedureSoak bamboo skewers in water, set aside. To make the sauce, melt butter on medium heat, add garlic and green pepper, and cook for one minute. Stir in coriander, cumin, paprika, garam masala, and salt. Stir in tomato sauce or can of diced tomatoes, and simmer for 15 minutes; stir in yoghurt and simmer to thicken for another five minutes. Thread the pieces of chicken on the skewers and marinate in the refrigerator for an hour or so, and discard marinade. Grill chicken, turning occasionally, to cook through for about eight minutes. Remove chicken from skewers; add to the sauce and simmer for five minutes. Garnish with coriander and serve with basmati rice, naan, or pita bread.


Madras Curry PasteIngredients2 ½ tbsp coriander seeds, dry-roasted and ground1 tbsp cumin seeds, dry

roasted and ground 1 tsp brown mustard seeds ½ tsp cracked black

peppercorns 1 tsp chili powder 1 tsp ground turmeric 2 crushed garlic cloves2 teaspoons grated fresh

ginger 3-4 tbsp white vinegar

ProcedurePut all ingredients except vinegar into small bowl and mix well. Add the vinegar and mix into a smooth paste. This mixture will keep for up to one month in an airtight container in the refrigerator.

Korma Curry Paste Ingredients2 teaspoons cumin seeds 1 tsp coriander seeds 2 garlic cloves, peeled and

sliced 2-inch piece ginger, peeled and

finely grated ½ tsp chili powder 1 tsp garam masala ½ tsp salt2 tbsp peanut oil1 tbsp tomato paste2 green chilies, seeded and

finely sliced 3 tbsp desiccated coconut 2 tbsp ground almonds 1 small bunch fresh coriander,

stalks and leaves chopped

ProcedureDry-fry the cumin and coriander seeds over medium heat, until they start to change color and release an aromatic scent; remove from heat. Place all the ingredients in a food processor or mortar and pestle and grind until the desired paste is achieved.

Manila’s hottest new cold treat

YOGHURT’S popularity as a low-calorie

treat has made it the fastest growing

segment of the frozen desserts industry.

No longer is yoghurt just an item in the

chiller of supermarkets, along with butters

and cheeses; it’s now enjoying it’s own

place in the health food universe.

Yoh-Froz brings this low-fat, low-calorie

treat for everyone to enjoy and indulge

in without guilt. Yoghurt is basically

a custard-like food with a tart flavor,

prepared from milk curdled by bacteria,

especially Lactobacillus bulgaricus and

Streptococcus thermophilus, and often

sweetened or flavored with fruit. Frozen

yoghurt is a frozen dessert containing

yoghurt or other dairy products. It is

slightly more tart than ice cream, as well

as lower in fat (due to the use of milk

instead of cream).

Johanson Dy Cheng is the first

franchisee of Yoh-Froz and Glacier

Bay Diversified Ventures Inc., under

his company, Entrepnegosyo foods

marketing.

explains that their business supports

the customer all the way. “Every aspect

of Yoh-Froz, from product development

to our promotional activities, revolves

around our customers. Our flavors have

a do-it-yourself quality to them, with you

choosing how healthy you want to snack.

You can have it on top of a delicious

Belgian waffle, have a fully loaded Yoh-

gurt Parfait, or blend it with fruits in a

Yoh-gurt Froz Smoothie, plus choose from

a wide selection of toppings, from mochi

to pastries and fruits.”

Yoghurt aids in digestion, helps your

immunity, strengthens your bones, and

is good for your colon and intestines

because it is loaded with probiotics,

which clean your intestinal tracts. Do

yourself a favor and go for this healthy

alternative. You can even buy Yoh-Froz

plain yoghurt in one pint or half gallon

sizes to take home to make exciting

yoghurt based drinks like Indian lassi.

Yoh-Froz is located at the Lower Ground

Level, Rustan’s Fresh Supermarket,

Shangri-La Plaza, Mandaluyong City.

LassiLassi is a traditional Punjabi

yoghurt-based drink made by

blending yoghurt with water and

Indian spices. Traditional lassi is a

savory drink; it is usually salted and

sometimes flavored with roasted

ground cumin. Sweet lassi, on the

other hand, is flavored with sugar,

honey and rosewater, or fruits like

lemon, mango, or strawberry. Lassi

is normally taken as a beverage for

lunch, and is also a refreshing in hot

weather. In some Indian villages, a

little turmeric powder mixed with

lassi is used as a folk remedy for

gastroenteritis.

Sweet LassiIngredients1 cup natural yoghurt1 cup chopped fruit of your choice 1 cup milk8 -10 pieces ice cubes½ tsp ground cardamom seeds

(optional)Few drops rose water (optional)

ProcedureBlend all the ingredients together in a blender. Pour into small glasses, sprinkle with cardamom on top, and serve. The sky is the limit when it comes to the use of fruit in making fruit lassi. Be imaginative.

Salty LassiIngredients1 cup natural yoghurt 1 cup cold waterSalt to taste8 -10 pieces ice cubes

ProcedureAdd yoghurt, water, and salt to the blender. Blend well till frothy. Pour in glasses and top with ice cubes. Aromatic LassiYou can experiment with flavors by using various herbs and combining spices when making salty lassi. Ginger and mint lassi, for example, can be a refreshing alternative to the sweet variety. Here’s a list of herbs or spices that can be used with this lassi: fresh ginger, mint leaves, cumin seeds, rock salt, coriander, and curry.

YOH Frozen Yogurt offers a delicious, healthy alternative to snacking


Homemade strawberrylassi with Yoh-Froz

Homemade mangolassi with Yoh-Froz

caption please

Plain lassi

caption please

caption pleasecaption please

6. Redefineyourtemplatewithoutsacrificingthemagazine’sDNA.

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7. Findthevoiceofthemagazine

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8. Repurpose and push the limits

31

Volume 1 • No. 10 • February-March 2012


Chocolate: A delicious historyFrom the ancient Mayas and European royalty to our very own ‘tablea’ makers, people have recognized the value of one of the world’s most delightful foods By Joseph Cortes

Is it food or confectionery? Is it a treat

or a sinful indulgence? Whatever your age,

sex, race, creed, color, or religion, you cannot

possibly not like chocolate. Whether it is milk,

dark, or white; plain, or with nuts, fruits, or

liqueur; candy, truffle, or dip, you must have

tasted it and smiled at having enjoyed its

luscious deliciousness.

Chocolate is as old as time—almost.

Chocosuisse, the Union of Swiss Chocolate

Manufacturers, dates the first mention

of chocolate to 600 AD, when the Mayas

established cacao plantations in the Yucatan

Peninsula. The date is arbitrary, because Swiss

chocolate makers agree that the Mayas used

cacao either as currency or drink several

centuries earlier.

The Mayas, and later, the Aztecs traded

using cocoa beans. They were then an

integral part of life in Central and South

America because they had multiple uses.

Cocoa beans were offered to the gods during

religious and sacred ceremonies. The white

pulp around the bean was used to ferment

alcoholic drinks, while the seed itself was

pounded and used to make a chocolate drink,

which warded of fatigue and was a cure for

diarrhea.

When Christopher Columbus reached

the Americas in 1502, he was introduced

to cocoa beans. He didn’t see the merit in

them because he was preoccupied with his

search for a route to the Spice Islands in Asia.

It wasn’t until Hernando Cortez conquered

Mexico for Spain in 1519 that cocoa became

a Western commodity; for almost a decade,

Spanish colonizers literally grew money on

trees.

In 1528, Cortez brought to Spain cocoa

beans and the instruments needed to prepare

chocolate. For almost a century, chocolate

became part of Spanish life. It became

fashionable among royalty to drink chocolate,

first among the French in 1615 when the

Spanish princess Anna of Austria married

Louis XIII. By 1657, the first chocolate shop

was opened in London by a Frenchman.

Chocolate then was enjoyed as a drink.

However, it was a man’s brew, very much the

way the Mayas and Aztecs enjoyed it. It was

diluted with water and seasoned with pepper.

By the 18th century, it was common to add

wine or beer to cocoa, as was diluting it with

milk, as we normally do today.

Chocolate in its solid form first made an

appearance in the 17th century when it was

first introduced in Spain. In 1674, chocolate

in the shape of rolls and cakes “in the Spanish

fashion” was being sold in London.

It wasn’t until the Swiss came into the

picture that chocolate as we now know it

became a reality. The first Swiss chocolate

factory was opened near Vevey in 1819.

Daniel Peter first introduced milk chocolate

into the market in 1875 after eight years

of experimentation. Some of the names

associated with chocolate would not be

familiar to today’s consumers, but if you read

the fine print on the label that came with

your chocolate, they would all ring familiar.

Some of the acknowledged Swiss chocolate

pioneers include François-Louis Cailler,

Philippe Suchard, Jacques Foulquer, Charles-

Amédée Kohler, Rudolphe Sprüngli-Ammann,

Aquilino Maestrani, Jacques Klaus, Daniel

Peter, Henri Nestlé, Johann Georg Munz,

Rudolphe Lindt, and Jean Tobler.

The Philippines, a Spanish colony, became

an important producer of cocoa beans during

the 19th century. It was said that the Spanish

sailor Pedro Bravo do los Camerinos retired

here in 1670 to start a cacao plantation,

which became one of the great cacao

plantations of the world.

It wasn’t surprising that a chocolate

enterprise existed throughout the

archipelago. With the Spanish instilling an

appreciation for chocolate, wealthy families

had cacao trees growing in their haciendas

around the country. Chocolate, in the form

of tableas, was the preferred means of

preserving the cacao harvest. During the

summer months, workers would be bent over

stone mills, grinding cacao into a paste, rolling

them into balls or pastilles that would go into

the preparation of chocolate drink.

Chocolate was considered a measure

of one’s status in society, as Jose Rizal

immortalized it in his novel Noli Me Tangere.

Esteemed guests were served chocolate eh

(espeso), thick and pure, prepared with milk,

while those of lower station were served

chocolate ah (aguado), a watered-down

version.

However, the niceties of society are

now lost on a generation that grew up with

powdered milk drinks and milk chocolates

in tetra paks. Mass production has made

chocolate in whatever shape or form a social

leveler: a commodity that may be enjoyed by

almost anyone.

In the Philippines, there are some

chocolate makers that adhere to the old

customs of chocolate making. They continue

to fashion tableas as they were made in

the 19th century to bring back a touch of

tradition into Filipino kitchens.

One of the more popular chocolate brands

in the market is Antonio Pueo, which has

the reputation of producing high-quality

chocolate made from the finest grade of

cacao. Jose Maria Pueo, who named it

after his father and uncle, founded the

firm in 1939. The brand gained fame after

the Second World War as a purveyor of

old-fashioned tablea. Today, Antonio Pueo

produces tablea made from 100 percent

organically grown cocoa beans sourced

from Davao. It produces tablea for drinking,

cooking, and baking, instant chocolate drink

powders, and a variety of cake, cookie, and

champorado mixes.

Today, chocolate is not merely a sweet but

also a means to wellness. The antioxidants in

dark chocolate are said to be good for one’s

health, while cocoa butter is an important

component of lotions, moisturizers, and body

butters.

It is also an important component of

almost every important occasion in life. What

celebration is complete without cake or

ice cream on the table? What holiday does

not involve gifting chocolate to loved ones?

Almost any day is a good day to delight in

chocolate. You need no excuse to grab a bar

or a drink to enjoy it. sR

4 February-March 2012 5sansRival

By Tracey Paska

Nothing warms the heart more than some chocolate on Valentine’s Day, but research shows that it can also keep the rest of the body healthy for the other 364 days

Chocolate: The new superfood

mainCourse

AS IF WE needed more reason to eat

chocolate, a study published late last year

in the British Medical Journal found that

regular consumption may reduce the risks

of heart disease, diabetes, and stroke by

approximately 30 percent. It’s just the latest

in a long line of scientific research that

suggests chocolate could be the ultimate

health food.

The secret is in the seeds of the cocoa

tree (Theobroma cacao), from which all kinds

of chocolate goodies are produced. These

beans are chock-full of flavanols, natural

chemical compounds that act as antioxidants

to help prevent damage to the body’s cells

and protect against cardiovascular diseases.

Other foods, such as red wine and green tea,

are also high in flavanols, but chocolate may

beat them all. A 2011 study found that cocoa

has significantly higher levels of antioxidant

activity than even such “super fruits” as açai

berry, pomegranate, and cranberry.

Even chocolate’s natural fat content

is the healthy kind: one-third of it is oleic

acid, a heart-healthy monounsaturated fat,

while another third is stearic acid, which is

converted in the liver into more oleic acid.

The list of cocoa’s potential health

benefits is a chocoholic’s dream:

HEALTHY HEART. The BMJ study points

to a link between eating chocolates and

preventing heart disease. Cocoa flavanols

have been shown to reduce the clumping

of blood platelets that can lead to heart

attacks.

STROKE PREVENTION. Flavanols also

lower blood pressure and improve overall

circulation. A Swedish study tracking

30,000 women over 10 years found a 20

percent lower incidence of stroke in those

who had high chocolate consumption (45

g per week) versus those who ate less.

REDUCED DIABETES RISK. A small Italian

study found that insulin sensitivity was

improved in volunteers who consumed

three ounces of dark chocolate for 15

days.

BETTER COGNITIVE AND VISUAL

FUNCTIONS. Recent research from the

University of Reading (UK) suggests

that cognitive and visual functions are

at least temporarily improved after

eating chocolate. Volunteers had better

recognition ability, faster response times,

and improved performance in low light

conditions.

POST-EXERCISE RECOVERY. Milk does

a body good, especially when it has

chocolate, according to two studies

from the University of Texas at Austin.

They found that athletes who consumed

chocolate milk after intensive physical

activity had improved oxygen intake,

better muscle development, and more

fat loss than those who drank typical

carbohydrate sports drinks.

So, what’s the catch?

The same flavanols that make cocoa so

healthy also give it a very pungent taste.

Processes such as roasting and alkalizing

(also known as Dutch processing) turn bitter

raw cocoa beans into our favorite chocolate

treats, but they also reduce or remove the

healthful compounds. Adding sugar and

milk to create sweet variations like milk

chocolates also increases the calories.

Finally, chocolate is often just one of many

other ingredients in chocolate foods such as

cakes, cookies, and candies, whose overall

caloric and nutritional content may actually

counter any benefits.

There is currently no standard for

exactly how much chocolate is good

for you; for now, researchers can

only recommend a moderate

amount—1-2 ounces, a few

days per week. What’s really

more important than how

much you eat is what

kind you choose:

DO CHOOSE DARK. The darker the

chocolate, the more flavanols and

phenols (another kind of antioxidant)

it contains. Look for the percentage of

cocoa content on labels: Dark chocolate

has between 30 and 90 percent; within

this range is semisweet chocolate, with

about 35 percent, and bittersweet with

at least 50 percent. In comparison, milk

chocolate has only about 10–20 percent

cocoa, while white chocolate has none

at all.

DON’T GO DUTCH. Dutch-processed

cocoa powder, often used to make

hot chocolate mixes, has added alkali

to neutralize its acidity and give it

a smoother, more mellow flavor.

Unfortunately, it also destroys most of

the beneficial flavanols. Instead, look for

powder labeled “natural cocoa.”

PURE IS BEST. There are so many

different ways to eat chocolate, but

the most healthful way is also the

most simple—just eating it by itself. A

few squares of chocolate will give you

the aforementioned benefits without

additional calories from butter, cream,

sugar, and other extra ingredients.

An apple a day might keep the doctor

away, but dipping it in chocolate would be

even better. sR


8 January-February 2012 9sansRival

Casino chocolates, pure imagination!


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Lose yourself to the luxury of silky, dark chocolates. Indulge with cappuccino flavored hot chocolate drink and lavish chocolate biscuits. Give your children chocolate drinks for their breakfast and guilt-free, organic, fair-trade munchies.

This is the Casino chocolate line from France, one of the leading food retailers in the world. The Casino product line is not limited to chocolate alone, however; feel free to visit our dedicated Casino gondolas to experience the variety of their products.

1. Casino Famili2. Casino Cappuccino Saveur Chocolat3. Casino Bio Galettes de riz 4. Casino Delices Galettes Suedoises5. 36 Chocolas Crispy Almond6. Tous Les Jours Biscuits Avec Tablette7. Casino Noir (Eclats de Feves de Cacao), Casino Lait, Casino Noir8. Casino Noir Noisettes Entieres9. CAsin Rocher Praline10. Casino Mention Bien


sansRival Live Pantry

Strawberries Dipped in Chocolate

Instead of the usual roses, why not consider giving your beloved something to munch that will help increase his or her serotonin and endorphin levels? Available during the month of February in our Gourmet-to-Go outlets, these chocolate-covered strawberries come in two versions; dark chocolate with white chocolate drizzle, and vise versa. Here is a simple version of the recipe you can try at home.

Ingredients:Bamboo satay-type skewers455 g fresh strawberries (not too ripe) with leaves (about 24 pieces)450 g semi-sweet or dark chocolate morsels25 g shortening

Preparation:1. Insert the skewers into the tops of the strawberries. 2. In a double boiler, melt the chocolate and shortening, stirring occasionally until smooth. Holding them by the bamboo skewers, dip the strawberries into the chocolate mixture.3. Turn the strawberries upside down and insert the skewer into the styrofoam tray for the chocolate to cool and set. 4. Drizzle with melted white chocolate (optional).



Like water for chocolate

Although wine and chocolate is a classic pairing (they’ve even

come up with chocolate wine), there are no absolutes when

it comes to pairing wine and certain foods. You can follow

suggestions, but in the end, you’ll trust your own palate and taste.

There are no experts on matching wine with food; there is only

your own preference. Derive your own pleasure: eat chocolate,

drink wine.

3. SPY VALLEY PINOT NOIR 2010 MARLBOROUGH, NEW ZEALAND

+ CASINO LES DESSERT DU CHOCOLATIER, GOUT TARTE CITRON

MERINGUÉE

Aromas of red fruits, plum, and sweet cherry with notes of spice

and dried sage are characteristics of this crisp wine. It has a fruit-

forward palate, long supple structure, and licorice and cocoa notes

that are typical of the vineyard’s sunny Wairu Valley location in the

Marlborough region.

4. BANROCK STATION MERLOT 2009, GOODEARTH FINEWINE,

AUSTRALIA + ROCHERS PRALINE LAIT

From the southeastern region of Australia, this merlot is a softer style

of wine, revealing ripe fruit aromas of blueberry, raspberry, and plum.

These characteristics linger on the palate and are complemented by

subtle, toasty oak notes.

5. PROSECCO DOC SPECIAL CUVEÉ, BRUT, FAMIGLIA ZONIN, ITALY +

CASINO BLANC, VANILLE BOURBON DOUX ET FONDANT

Prosecco is its own grape, and it tastes completely different from

chardonnay and pinot noir (the grapes of Champagne). Very well-

balanced and appealing, with the extremely delicate almond note

that is typical of Prosecco. An excellent aperitif, it can also be served

throughout the meal—including dessert—as long as the dishes are

not too strongly flavored.

1. HARDY’S TALL SHIPS TAWNY PORT, ESTD 1853 AUSTRALIA +

CASINO NOIR, ORANGE ÉCORCES CONFITES

Port is a fortified wine (meaning brandy has been added) originating

from Portugal, and is typically served as a dessert wine. This multiple

award-winner from Australia is a classic style of port wine, sweet and

full-bodied with a deep, tawny hue and aromas of ripe fig, prune,

and raisin. Chocolate, oak, and rancio characters are well-integrated

to deliver a palate that is rich and well-rounded with fine tannins

providing intensity and length of flavor. Also pairs well with mature

cheeses and sticky date pudding.

2. KENDAL JACKSON, VINTNER RESERVE, CABERNET SAUVIGNON.

70% SONOMA & 30% NAPA COUNTIES, 2008 + CASINO DÉLICES, NOIR

TANZANIE 85% AUX AMANDES EFFILÉES INTENSE ET CRAQUANT

Aged in a combination of French and American oak barrels, this serious

cabernet exhibits a deep ruby, purple-tinged hue and notes of charcoal,

black cherries, black currants, licorice, cassis, and mocha. Intense,

round, and silky tannins provide this California wine with abundant

richness, while cedar and vanilla notes linger on the finish. sR


Editor-in-Chief Ige Ramos Managing Editor Glenna AquinoAssociate Editor Roda Masinag Art Director Joan SoroPhotography Pat MateoFood Stylist Sandee MasiganAsstant Food Stylist David SiytangcoContributing Editors Joseph Cortes

Alya HonasanTracey Paska

Proofreader Bernie C. LizardoManagement LDV and Associates

VP-Food and Services Division Beth Romualdez





Published every 15th of the month by Rustan Supercenters, Inc. 4th floor, Morning Star Center347 Sen. Gil Puyat Ave., Makati CityTelefax: 899-1915Website: www.rustansfresh.comE-mail: [email protected]

Follow us on Twitter at http://twitter.com/rustansfresh and like us on Facebook at http://www.facebook.com/rustansfresh

Rustan’s sansRival magalogue is distributed for free to Fresh Shopping Rewards and Star Sapphire card members.

Copyright ©2012 Rustan Supercenters, Inc. All rights reserved. Neither this publication nor any part of it may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means—electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise—without the prior permission of sansRival magalogue.

All information is correct at the time of printing.Prices are subject to change without prior notice.

Rustan’s Supermarket • Greenbelt 1 • Makati-Glorietta • Rockwell • Shangri-La Plaza • Gateway Mall • Corinthian Hills • Katipunan • San Antonio • Tomas Morato • Magallanes • Fairview • Ayala Center, Cebu • Banawa, Cebu


Vol. 1 • No. 9 • Jan-Feb 2012

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mainCourse|Bring in the luck 4The celebration of the Chinese New Year and the wealth of customs and traditionsthat have been passed on from generation to generation

sansRival recommends|The Dragon’s Pantry: Energy and Life 6Start your new year right! Stock your pantry with organic products that will provide a sense of well-being. Surprise your loved ones with amazing Chinese dishes using authentic ingredients to welcome the year of the water dragon

Fast Food as Slow Food|Lighten Up with 300-Calorie Meals 8Every New Year brings the same old resolutions: eat right and lose weight. This year, Rustan’s Gourmet to Go is helping out by serving up a new line of 300-Calorie Meals to make healthy eating an easy and delicious new habit

Fast Food as Slow Food|Rustan’s Supermarket’s Gourmet to Go 10Food gently prepared for your convenience

Chinese New Year Special|The Chinese Zodiac for Beginners 13Get to know the personality traits of the different astrological signs

sansRival Live Pantry| The Yin and Yang of Chinese Cooking 14

Jiaozi Dumplings 16Marbled Tea Eggs 17Lettuce Wraps 18White Cut Chicken Poached in Shaoxing wine 19Roasted Duck Cuapao 20Sweet and Sour Pork With Pineapple, Carrots, and Bell Pepper 21Cantonese Spring Rolls With Pork And Shrimp 22Steamed Whole Fish 23Stir fried Flowering Chives 24Lion’s Head meatballs 25Buddha’s Delight 26Chinese egg rolls 27

grapeVine|Tea and sympathy 28Choose from a selection of fresh and vibrant blends

topShelf | 30Rustan’s Supermarket’s top quality products and well-respected brands for all its discerning customers

from the editor’s table

IN DONIZETTI’S opera L’Elisir d’Amore (The Elixir of Love), Nemorino, a simple peasant, does

not stand a chance of being noticed by the object of his affection, Adina, a wealthy landowner.

One day an itinerant medicine man, Dr. Dulcamara, arrives in town, selling his bottled cure-all to the

townspeople. Nemorino, desperate for the love of Adina, asks the quack doctor if he has a love potion to

make Adina fall in love with him. Dulcamara gives him a vial that contained only sweetened wine. Without knowing

the content of the vial, the desperate Nemorino spent all his money. Had Dulcamara suggested that Nemorino give

Adina a bar of chocolate, the opera might have taken a different turn, and for the better.

For our main course, Joseph Cortes takes us on a journey by which the chocolate of cacao traveled from the temples of

ancient Mayan and Aztec civilizations to the boardrooms of Swiss chocolate manufacturers and finally to our kitchen.

Tracey Pasca writes about how chocolate is becoming a “superfood,” aligning itself with anti-oxidant favorites

such as spinach, carrots, beets, sweet potatoes, and berries. But don’t take this as a license to over-indulge!

This is the pure cacao variety, and not the ones you pick up at the supermarket check-out counter. Like

wine and red meat, chocolate confections must be enjoyed in moderation.

For our “sansRival recommends,” we welcome the chocolate selection of Casino from France.

Their product line is not limited to chocolate alone, however; feel free to visit our dedicated

gondolas to experience the variety of their products.

Over the years, chocolate has taken a path away from its traditional course, flowing toward

a more artisan approach and adding a new, delightful aspect to cooking by appearing in many

savory dishes. In line with this, the selection of recipes featured in our Live Pantry section focuses

on chocolate from a different angle, away from

being just a high-calorie indulgence. In this

month for valentines, change the way

you eat chocolate by cooking with this

elixir of love.

Chocolate: the elixir of love


32

The Chinese Zodiac for beginners By Walter Ang

This year, Chinese New Year’s Day falls on Jan. 23. In Chinese

astrology, this date ushers in the Year of the Water Dragon.

Chinese astrology, just like Western and Indian astrology, uses the

position of the planets as seen in the sky and in relation to its zodiac

signs to forecast the possible scenarios for the coming year.

Chinese astrology also melds these ingredients to draw a picture

of certain qualities of persons born under a particular Zodiac animal

for the year, based on its 12-year cycle of animal signs (every year is

assigned a different Zodiac animal). Babies born from Jan. 23, 2012

to Feb. 9, 2013 will all be Water Dragons.

Here’s a quick look at the qualities or personalities of each of the

Chinese Zodiac signs. sR

Get to know the personality traits of the different astrological signs


Spanish hot chocolate drink

Always present at the Spanish breakfast table, this hot chocolate recipe has been adopted and embraced in the Philippines, particularly in the farming regions of Central Luzon and Southern Tagalog. Thanks to Jose Rizal, the social code of cocoa was revealed: If the chocolate is thick, it is referred to as chocolate eh, for espeso, and if it’s watered down, it is called chocolate ah, for aguada.

Ingredients1 pack (200g) Antonio Pueo Chocolate “Excellent”1 liter hot water (4 cups)1 can evaporated milk or cream (about 1 cup)

Procedure 1. Crush, grate, or chop the chocolate.2. In a two-liter size cooking pot, boil water. Drop chocolate into boiling water. Stir, taking care not to burn the chocolate.3. In small bowl, mix cream with vinegar. (OJO: no mention of vinegar or amount needed in ingredients!)4. Continue to stir mixture until chocolate has completely melted. Add milk and a teaspoon of fresh butter, then turn off the fire. Beat to a froth. Serve.

Special champorado

Children always enjoy eating creamy champorado, especially on rainy days. This recipe from the kitchen of Antonio Pueo contains coconut milk and kakang gata (coconut cream), making it an even richer concoction that everyone of all ages can enjoy. For a truly Filipino breakfast, serve it with beef tapa or grilled salty fish (tuyo).

Ingredients1 cup glutinous rice (malagkit)4 cups water⅛ tsp Salt1 cup “thin” coconut milk8 tablets Antonio Pueo Chocolate “Excellent” or “Rollos”1½ cups “thick” coconut cream (kakang gata)½ cup brown sugar (packed)

Procedure 1. Extract 1½ cups pure coconut cream from 2-3 large, freshly grated coconuts. Set aside in refrigerator.2. Add water to coconut and massage, then extract thin coconut milk. Set aside.3. Wash the rice at least twice and then boil in water until rice is almost soft.4. Add the salt, “thin” coconut milk, and Antonio Pueo Chocolate. Stir continuously until rice is a soft and tender “lugaw.”5. When done, add “thick” coconut cream and sugar. Stir well over low fire until mixture starts to boil. Serve steaming hot.




Chocolate Pancakes with Strawberries

Topped with luscious strawberries and drizzled with decadent chocolate sauce, this daybreak dish is more like a dessert. After such a wild and indulgent breakfast, your mornings will never be the same again! This recipe makes about a dozen medium pancakes.

Ingredients1 2/3 cups flour1/3 cup unsweetened cocoa powder2 tsp baking powder¼ tsp salt1/3 cup granulated sugar1 cup chocolate chips2 eggs2 tsp vanilla5 Tbsp (plus more for cooking) butter, melted and cooled1¼ cups (plus up to a ¼ cup more) milk

ToppingFresh strawberries, slicedDesired chocolate sauce or syrup

Procedure 1. Mix together flour, cocoa, baking powder, salt, and sugar through a sieve placed over a large mixing bowl.

Add the chocolate chips to the dry ingredients. 2. In a second bowl, beat eggs and vanilla together. Add butter then milk, and continue to blend. Pour the liquid

mix over the dry ingredients and stir thoroughly. 3. Place a non-stick skillet over moderate heat and brush with a little melted butter. Using a ladle, drop batter

onto the skillet to make pancakes about six inches across. Cook until edges begin to look dry and bubbles appear on the surface. Flip gently and cook for another minute on the other side. Place the pancake in a deep dish and cover with a kitchen towel to keep warm until ready to serve.

4. Serve with your favorite chocolate sauce, syrup, or Nutella , topped with sliced, fresh strawberries.



Year of the Rat:

Jiaozi dumplings

These pot-stickers look like yuanbao, the gold ingots used as currency in ancient China. An essential menu item for the Lunar New Year banquet, it is believed to bring prosperity.

Ingredients:6 cups bok choi, finely chopped

1 tsp salt1 lb ground pork2 cups scallions, finely chopped2 1/2 tbsp light soy sauce1 tbsp rice wine2 tbsp sesame oil2 tbsp finely chopped ginger1 tbsp cornstarch50 rounds of dumpling wrappersRice vinegar for dipping

Ingredients for dipping sauceMix together:1 fresh red chili2 tsp fresh grated gingerRice vinegarSoy sauce

Preparation: Toss cabbage and salt together. Stand for 30 minutes and squeeze all water out of the cabbage. Add pork, scallion, soy sauce, rice wine, sesame oil, ginger, and cornstarch. Stir until combined and drain off any excess liquid.

Place a heaping teaspoon of the filling in the center of each wrapper. Spread a little water along the edge of the wrapper and fold wrapper over. Press to seal. Place dumplings on a baking sheet that has been lightly dusted with cornstarch.

Cook dumplings in a large saucepan of boiling water for eight to10 minutes, until it floats.

Year of the Ox:

Marbled Tea Eggs

Served as snack or with a dim sum, these tea eggs add texture and drama to the New Year’s Eve table. The best thing is, they are easy to make.

Ingredients:6 eggs3 1/2 cups cold water, or as needed1 tsp salt2 tbsp soy sauce1/2 cup brewed black tea2 star anise, broken into individual pieces1 cinnamon stick

Preparation:Place the eggs in a saucepan with the water, making sure that there is at least ½ inch of water above the eggs. Cover and bring to a rolling boil. Remove the saucepan from the fire and let the eggs stand in the hot water for 15-20 minutes, until they are cooked. Remove the eggs and run them under cold running water to cool. (Reserve the water in the pan).

Tap the hard-boiled eggs gently with the back of a spoon, to make a series of cracks all over the eggshells, while making sure the shell remains intact. (If the shell does come off, don’t worry—it just means that egg will have a darker color than the others).

Bring the water in the pan back to a boil. Add the salt, soy sauce, brewed black tea, star anise pieces, and the cinnamon stick. Add the eggs. Simmer, stirring occasionally, for two hours. Turn off the heat and let the eggs sit in the hot liquid until ready to serve. Serves six.



Chile Vegetariano con Sabor Chocolate

Mingling flavors of chili and chocolate has long been a part of Central American cuisine. It’s a savory combination that’s deliciously demonstrated in this vegetarian variation of Chili con Carne. This recipe yields six servingst

Ingredients2 medium dried ancho chilies, rinsed, patted dry, split lengthwise, seeded1 dried chipotle chili, rinsed, patted dry, split lengthwise, seeded1 tsp cumin seeds, toasted1 tsp dried oregano, crushed¼ tsp cinnamon½ tsp salt2 tsp olive oil2 onions, chopped4 garlic cloves, minced1 cup zucchini, cubed1 cup yellow squash, cubed1 cup broccoli florets 1 tsp grated orange zest½ tsp muscovado sugar30 g unsweetened chocolate, shaved or grated1 can (400 g) whole tomatoes in juice, drained, chopped, reserving juice1¼ cups water2 cans (400 g) pinto beans, drained, rinsed (or cooked kidney beans)Sprigs of fresh coriander (wansoy)

Procedure1. Pan fry the chili peppers (or the substitute peppers) flat in a skillet on both sides over medium heat until just tender, about 30 seconds. Cut into small pieces. 2. Combine chili peppers and cumin seeds in a coffee or spice grinder and process until finely ground. A mortar and pestle can be used as well. Combine chili mixture with oregano, cinnamon, and salt.3. Heat oil in a large pot and sauté onions for two minutes. Mix in garlic and cook, stirring, ne to two minutes. Stir in chili mixture and cook a minute. Add zucchini or squash and broccoli and cook five minutes, covered. Stir in orange zest, sugar, chocolate, tomatoes and juice, and water.4. Place lid on pot and cook until vegetables are tender, stirring chili often. When vegetables are cooked through, add beans and cook another five minutes. Season to taste with salt, if needed. Serve warm and garnish with sprigs of coriander (wansoy).

Notes and ingredient substitution:Chipotles are smoked jalapeno peppers and are also known as chile ahumado. These chilies are usually a dull tan to coffee color. As much as one fifth of the Mexican jalapeño crop is processed into chipotles. Meanwhile, ancho is a dry, deep reddish brown chili pepper with a sweet hot flavor. When fresh they are referred to as poblanos. The ancho is the sweetest of the dried chilis, and is most commonly used in authentic Mexican cooking, a staple in red chilli and tamales. If these peppers are not available, sweet bell pepper and green finger chilies (siling haba used in sinigang) can be used, but the smokey, Mexican flavor would be lost. For extra zing, pan-fry siling labuyo, but make sure to remove the seeds first, unless you want your chili really hot!

If pinto beans are not available, kidney beans and/or garbanzos can be used for this recipe. Make sure that the beans are cooked prior to cooking.





Chicken Mole

Mole (moh-LAY) is any number of chili pepper-based sauces originating in the Mexican states of Puebla and Oaxaca, where seemingly every woman claims a special recipe passed down from her mother. Before the advent of electric blenders and food processors, women had to take their pre-cooked mole ingredients to large neighborhood molinos, or grinders, to blend. Cooking mole was once such a time-consuming process, it was made in large batches only for special occasions and fiestas. Serves four.

Ingredients3 Tbsp cayenne pepper3 Tbsp freshly ground black pepper4 Tbsp oil, divided in two parts500 g chicken breast, skin on, cubed 2 tsp mild chili powder or paprika2 tsp ground cumin1 tsp ground cinnamon50 g unsweetened chocolate (at least 70 percent cocoa content), broken into pieces2 cans (400 g) diced tomatoes

Procedure 1. In a bowl, gently coat the chicken with equal parts cayenne and black pepper to taste. In a large pot, heat two tablespoons oil and cook the chicken between four and six minutes or until cooked through. Remove chicken and set aside.2. Blend chili powder with cumin and cinnamon and add more cayenne and black pepper according to preferred level of hotness. In the same pot, heat two tablespoons of oil and add chili powder mix. Stir with a spoon and heat over medium heat until blackened, about six to eight minutes.3. Turn down the heat, stir in chocolate, and continue stirring until melted. When chocolate is fully melted, add the canned diced tomatoes, turn the heat up, and bring to a boil. Cook for 10 minutes, stirring often. Add chicken and continue cooking until heated through for another five minutes. Serve warm, with rice or tortilla, tomato salsa, and guacamole.



Year of the Dragon:

Roasted Duck Cuapao


Year of the Snake:

Sweet and Sour Pork with Pineapple, Carrots, and Bell Peppers

This recipe has been popularized by Chinese eateries in the ’50s and ’60 using canned pineapple. The pork has more batter, and is therefore crispier.

Preparation:Cut the pork into one-inch cubes. Marinate in the soy sauce and cornstarch for 20 minutes.

To prepare the sauce, in a small bowl, combine the sugar, ketchup, dark soy sauce, salt, water or juice, and vinegar. Set aside. In a separate bowl, dissolve the cornstarch in the water. Set aside.

Peel the carrot and chop into diagonal one-inch pieces. Cut the bell peppers in half, remove the seeds, and cut into cubes. Heat the oil for deep-frying to 375°F.

For the batter, combine the flour and cornstarch. Stir in the egg white and vegetable oil. Add as much of the warm water as is needed to form a thick batter that is neither too dry nor too moist. (The batter should not be runny, but should drop off the back of a spoon.)

Dip the marinated pork cubes in the batter. Deep-fry in batches, taking care not to overcrowd the wok. Deep-fry the pork until it is golden brown. Remove and drain on paper towels.

(If desired, you can deep-fry the pork a second time to make it extra crispy. Make sure the oil is back up to 375°F before you begin deep-frying again).

To prepare the sweet and sour sauce, bring the sauce ingredients to a boil in a small saucepan over medium heat. Add the carrots, green pepper, and pineapple. Bring to a boil again and thicken with cornstarch mixture, stirring. Check the sauce one more time and adjust seasonings, adding salt and/or vinegar, if desired.

Serve hot over the deep-fried pork. Serve the sweet and sour pork over rice.

Denise and Polly are sisters specializing in yummy roast duck specialties. Their company first started around nine years ago with only two products: Whole Roast Duck and Roast Duck Siopao. Unfortunately, due to inconsistent quality of imported duck in the local market, they were forced to stop operations after a few years. Now, after six long years, they are back with a vengeance.

From their original two products, their line has expanded into six products, which include Whole Roast Duck, Roast Duck Siopao, Duck Sisig, Duck Fried Rice, Duck Adobo Flakes Siopao with Kesong Puti and Salted Egg, and of course, the delectable Roast Duck Cuapao.

The Roast Duck Cuapao sells for P90 each. Generous slices of roast duck are flavored with hoisin sauce and garnished with lettuce and pickled vegetables, and can be eaten as a light lunch or snack.

Denise and Polly have created and produced innovative duck specialties, dishes that you will not find in any local restaurant, and which you can enjoy in the comfort of your own home. Their aim is to bring the taste of Hong Kong to your own home—perfect for the coming Chinese New Year.

For orders: Denise and Polly’s The Classic Roast Duck Outlet. Please call tel. nos. 911-5795, 911-5718, (0917) 822-6400, or (0917) 528-5838. With stand-alone outlets in Rustan’s Supermarket Makati and Rockwell.

Batter:1/3 cup flour1/3 cup cornstarch1 egg white, lightly beaten1 tbsp vegetable oil1/3 cup warm water, as needed

Ingredients:3/4 lb pork tenderloin2-3 tsp soy saucePinch of cornstarch

Sauce:1/4 cup sugar2 tbsp ketchup2 tbsp dark soy sauce1/4 tsp salt1/2 cup water or reserved pineapple juice1/4 cup vinegar1 tbsp cornstarch dissolved in 4 tbsp water

Other:1 carrot1/2 red bell pepper1/2 green bell pepper1/2 cup pineapple chunks3 cups oil for deep-frying, or as needed


Chocolate Savory Short Ribs

When we think of chocolate, it’s confections and desserts such as truffles or cakes that come to mind, not meat. But in Mexico and most parts of Central America, cocoa in both sweet and savory preparations is part of the cultural diet. If you’ve never sampled a combination of meat and chocolate before, give this recipe a try—it may just change your view on chocolate. Makes four servings.

Ingredients¼ cup diced bacon2.5 kg bone-in short ribsSalt and freshly ground black pepper1½ cups diced onions¼ cup diced shallots¼ cup diced celery¼ cup diced peeled carrots3 garlic cloves, minced2 cups red wine3 cups chicken broth (low salt)2 cups canned diced tomatoes, drained2 Tbsp chopped fresh parsley1 sprig fresh thyme 1 bay leaf3 Tbsp grated unsweetened chocolate2 Tbsp Dutch-process cocoa powder1 tsp finely chopped fresh rosemary

Procedure 1. Cook bacon in a large pot until crispy. Take bacon out of pot with a slotted spoon and reserve on paper towels. Sprinkle short ribs with salt and pepper and sear in pot with bacon drippings, about two to three minutes per side. Remove ribs and reserve on a plate.2. Sauté onions, shallots, celery, carrots, and garlic in same pot until softened, about eight to 10 minutes. Pour in red wine and bring mixture to a boil for about five minutes or until liquid is reduced by about half—be sure to scrape the bottom of the pot to release any browned bits.3. Add broth, tomatoes, parsley, thyme, bay leaf, bacon, and short ribs to pot. Stir and place lid over pot. Cook for about 1½ hours. Take lid off of pot and continue simmering for 1½ hours or until ribs are tender.4. Remove ribs with a slotted spoon and reserve on a plate. Remove bay leaf and spoon off any fat that has risen to the top of the sauce. Bring sauce to a boil for about eight minutes or until it begins to thicken.5. Lower heat to medium and add chocolate, cocoa powder, and rosemary. Cook, stirring, until chocolate melts. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Add ribs back into pot and cook until heated through. Serve warm.




Rabo de Toro

Oxtail stews and soups have a long history in European cuisine, dating back to the Roman Empire, but we find the Mediterranean dishes, such as this recipe by Beth Romualdez, to be the most delicious and daring. Rabo de toro (literally “tail of the bull” in Spanish) is the name of an Andalusian dish originating in 16th century Cordoba, where it was cooked with the tails of slaughtered bulls from the bullring. Variations in ingredients include sherry or port instead of red wine, but we’ve chosen a more classical approach. Cooking on a long, slow simmer will produce a rich stew of meltingly tender meat and velvety sauce flavored with vegetables, wine, and spices. Bitter or dark chocolate shavings add a final, magical touch to the dish.

Ingredients1 whole oxtail (about 1 ½ kilos), skinless, cut into two-inch pieces Salt and pepper, to tasteFlour, for dredging Olive oil1 large onion, chopped1 head garlic, chopped2 large ripe tomatoes, chopped (or substitute canned whole tomatoes)1 carrot, peeled and chopped½ tsp dried thyme½ tsp dried oregano2 bay leaves½ teaspoon dried rosemary10 whole peppercorns Pinch of Spanish paprika2 cups Spanish red wine2 cups or more meat stockChorizo, cut at a slant, ¼-inch thick2 Tbsp bitter or dark chocolate shavings (optional)

Procedure 1. Clean the oxtail and remove the extra fat. Blanch in boiling water then drain. Pat dry with paper towels.2. Season the oxtail with salt and pepper and dredge in flour. Fry in olive oil until light brown. Set aside.3. In the same pot, sauté the onion, garlic, tomatoes, and carrot until wilted.4. Put back the oxtail pieces, add the thyme, oregano, bay leaves, rosemary, peppercorns and paprika. Stir to coat well.5. Pour in the wine, let simmer for a few minutes to reduce, then add the meat stock. You don’t have to use up the two cups immediately. Pour just enough to cover the meat and add as you need. Cover and simmer over low fire until meat is fork tender.6. Raise heat to high to reduce and thicken the sauce. Add the chorizo in the last 10–15 minutes before removing from the fire.7. Add the chocolate shavings, if desired, at the end.

Notes: The dark chocolate shavings add a different flavor dimension to the dish. Allow the dish to sit at room temperature before serving to allow the flavors to develop. Reheat, if desired.





Foolproof Chocolate Cake

This basic chocolate cake recipe comes straight from the kitchen of Antonio Pueo. Layer it with fruit jam or chocolate ganache, frost with buttercream or cream cheese, or leave it in all its naked cocoa glory—anything goes!

Special note: This recipe is intended only for conventional baking pans and ovens. Please consult product manuals when using special bakeware or convection ovens.

Ingredients:3 Tbsp butter1 cup boiling water1½ cup all-purpose flour1⅛ cup light brown sugar, packed1½ cup Antonio Pueo Ground Chocolate1 tsp baking soda¼ tsp fine salt2 pcs. fresh eggs ⅛ cup all-purpose cream, soured with ½ tsp vinegar1 tsp vanilla extract

Preparation:1. Prepare two greased and lined eight-inch diameter round baking pans.2. Preheat oven to 350°F (or 180°C for gas) for 10 minutes.3. In small bowl, mix cream with vinegar.4. In medium-sized mixing bowl, combine Antonio Pueo ground chocolate, butter, boiling water. Stir until chocolate is melted.5. In large mixing bowl combine flour, brown sugar, baking soda, and salt. Mix thoroughly with a balloon whisk.6. Blend eggs, soured cream, and vanilla, and beat vigorously by hand for two minutes (or with electric beater on medium speed for one minute).7. Pour batter into prepared baking pan. Bake for 35–40 minutes or until cake tester comes out clean. Cool completely on cake rack; frost if desired. Make eight to 10 servings.

From savory to sweet

It is a truth universally acknowledged that everything tastes better with chocolate. From sweet pastries to savory stews, cocoa is a versatile ingredient that adds a richness of flavor to a dish. It’s a wonder then that for centuries, this “food of the gods” was used as everything but food.

Ancient Mesoamericans first used the seeds of the cacao tree as a form of currency and for a bitter ceremonial brew to which they added cornmeal, chili peppers, vanilla beans, and various herbs. Later, the Spanish brought the precious pods back to Europe, where the wealthy consumed it as a beverage for pleasure and as medicine. To temper its strong flavor, sugar and cinnamon were added, and milk replaced water. So began the enduring connection between chocolate and sweetness.

As an ingredient in recipes, chocolate has long been used (and preferred) in sweet confections and desserts, but as far back as the Aztecs, it has been combined with herbs and spices. No one knows when or where chocolate was first used in a savory dish, but one story is that nuns in Puebla, Mexico created a special recipe for a visiting dignitary—mole, the piquant, cocoa-infused sauce now considered Mexico’s national dish.

From drink to dessert to main dish, chocolate is deliciously divine.

Fast food as slow foodsansRival Live Pantry


34

Best of British

SR Brit-Revised Cover.indd 1 3/20/13 8:55 AM

Volume 3 • No. 3 • April 2013


The best of British

35

Volume 3 • No. 5 • June 2013

The pleasure of tastesansRivalsansRivalsansRivalsansRivalPhilippine FarmhouseCooking

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9. Generate income by having a clear marketing initiative

sanRival is a free monthly magalogue distributed to

the most loyal customers of Rustan’s Supermarket. It represents an innovative

customer service tool, a superior advertising

proposition, and an overall profitable undertaking for

the Company.

Media Kit 2012

Connect with your market • Advertise with us

Our Mission is to provide fresh and relevant information to the community with discerning tastes through insightful writing and innovative art direction, food styling and photography.sansRival is the unrivalled consumer

service publication of Rustan’s Supermarket that inspires an optimum pleasurable food shopping experience.

Our target reader is one who enjoys the good things in life, and is both enthusiastic and discerning when it comes to good food and wine.

With authoritative, informative and entertaining articles, coupled with forward-looking editorial design and a high standard of photography and food styling, SansRival is the perfect showcase for Rustan’s Supermarket’s range of grocery products. As a theme-based, consumer service publication, SansRival also advocates fresh views and insights into the true essence of gastronomy.

In less than a year of its existence Rustan’s Supermarket sansRival magalogue has develop customer following and garnered the Anvil Award of Excellence and the top Anvil Bronze Award for the best PR Tool in External Publication from the Public Relations Society of the Philippines.

36

Volume 2 • No. 2 • May-June 2012


Locavore

37

Volume 2 • No. 4 • July-August 2012

The pleasure of tastesansRivalsansRival

Thailand, Malaysia, Singapore

Volume 2 • No. 6 • October 2012


Le goût de la France

Volume 3 • No. 4 • May 2013

The pleasure of tastesansRivalsansRival

HappyMother’s

Day

38

Volume 3 • No. 8 • September 2013


Amuse bouche

39

Volume 3 • No. 9 • November-December 2013

Th e pleasure of taste

Sweet Christ mas

Slide | 52

Rates per Placement

Page 1x Placement Quarterly Placements (3)

Semi-Annual Placements (5)

Yearly Placements (10)

Full Page, full color 75,000.00 71,250.00 67,687.50 64,303.13

OBC 90,000.00 85,500.00 81,225.00 77,163.75

IFC 100,000.00 95,000.00 90,250.00 85,737.50

IFC Spread 180,000.00 171,000.00 162,450.00 154,327.50

IBC 95,000.00 90,250.00 85,737.50 81,450.63

1/2 page 50,000.00 47,500.00 45,125.00 42,868.75

Slots 30,000.00 28,500.00 27,075.00 25,721.25

sansRival links you up directly with our market

Contact Details

Tet F. BachmannAd & Promo Manager

Pinky Lim Ad & Promo Head

SansRival Magalogue Rustan Supercenters, Inc.4th floor, Morning Star Center347 Sen. Gil Puyat Ave., Makati CityTelefax: 899-1915

Website: www.rustansfresh.comE-mail: [email protected]

sansRival is collected and kept by its loyal fans

Magazine Details

Circulation: 150,000

Distribution: Metro Manila/ Cebu

Frequency: Monthly / 10 issues annually

Size: 8 ½ x 11 inches • 36 pages

Full-color • Bookpaper stock/

Cover Price: Free / Not for sale

Advertising DetailsDeadlinesn Booking: Every 25th of the month, two

months prior to the release daten Material Submission: Every 20th of the

month prior to the next issuen Cancellation: On the 1st day of the

month prior to the next issue

Material Ad Specificationsn A one full page, full color ad’s size is 8

½ x 11 inches. n Add .5 of an inch on all sides for bleed,

after the cutting marks. n The file must be at least 300 dpi in

resolution.n Preferred format is TIFF (CMYK mode

only)

Advertising Rates

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10. Clarify your vision and mission statement, learn from

your past mistakes andcontinue to innovate

1

Rustan’s Supermarket sansRival magalogue

Creative Strategic Planning Workshop Report • March 2012

Slide | 54

2 3

In less than a year of its existence Rustan’s

Supermarket sansRival magalogue has

develop customer following and garnered the

Anvil Award of Excellence and the top Anvil

Bronze Award for the best PR Tool in External

Publication from the Public Relations Society

of the Philippines.

Executive SummarySanRival is a free monthly magalogue distributed to the most loyal customers of Rustan’s Supermarket. It represents an innovative customer service tool, a superior advertising proposition, and an overall profitable undertaking for the Company.

With authoritative, informative and entertaining articles, coupled with forward-looking editorial design and a high standard of photography and food styling, SansRival is the perfect showcase for Rustan’s Supermarket’s range of grocery products. As a theme-based, consumer service publication, SansRival also advocates fresh views and insights into the true essence of gastronomy.

Our target reader is one who enjoys the good things in life, and is both enthusiastic and discerning when it comes to good food and wine.

In an effort to balance consumption with social responsibility our magazine is also keen to promote organic produce at every opportunity, while at the same time recognizing the need to showcasing quality products at affordable prices.

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4 5

BackgroundBeing in the challenging stage, sansRival Magalogue aims to clarify organizational goals, identify problem areas, improved interpersonal relationships from within and come up with a strategic action plan.

As a result of the strategic Planning Workshop held on November 30, 2011 in Tagaytay City, the publication team of sansRival Magalogue came up with a Strategic Plan covering CY 2012 to 2014. The Strategic Plan aims to set new directions to make SansRival an unrivalled magazine of Rustan’s.

Our VisionsansRival is the unrivalled consumer service publication of Rustan’s Supermarket that inspires an optimum pleasurable food shopping experience.

Our MissionWe provide fresh and relevant information to the global community with discerning tastes through insightful writing and innovative art direction, food styling and photography.

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6 7

Our Core ValuesOur mission will be accomplished by living according to our shared values. We believe that relationships are critical to the success of SansRival by maintaining the highest ethical and moral standards.

• Customer CentricOur customers and readers whose lives we touch are our partners in creating. Their loyalty to SansRival is our greatest reward.

• Transparency and OpennessWe communicate openly, honestly and frequently.

• Creativity and InnovativenessOur job is to unleash our imagination and creativity to make SansRival unique and a quality magazine.

• TeamworkWe value cooperation and collaboration. We believe in the inherent talents of everyone. We work together in the spirit of respect.

Strategic Goals1. Strengthen internal capacities to effectively respond to the

changing needs and preferences of our customers.

To develop and establish a feedback system using online and social media.

To expose the team to current trends and styles in writing, designing and lay out.

2. To improve the linkages and interface with Rustan’s Marketing Department for seamless logistics and communication support.

Develop and implement work systems and procedures to facilitate work and communication processes.

3. Establish strategic partnerships with local and global stakeholders.

Develop a strategic alliance to different networks

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8 9

Activity Output Time Frame Responsible Person

Strategic Goal 1

Establish and Develop feedback system in magazine through online and SMS

Letters to editorsBeginning of Volume 2 April 2012

Expose team to current trends, styles, movements etc.

Attend fairs, Food expos, magazines, etc.

Throughout 2012 Ige, Beth Romualdez

Strategic Goal 2

Develop and Implement Work systems and procedures;

Monitor systems & procedures

Work manual/ process flow

Available and accessible top shelf products

Intensified Marketing

Increase readership and circulation

Beginning of Volume 2 April 2012

Rustans marketing with Sansrival Saff

Strategic Goal 3

Establish partnership with institutions to provide technical support and recipes for Sansrival

Kitchen Tested Recipes January 2012

Strategic Goal 4

Expand Readership

Develop Sansrival as brand extension

Generate reader feedback/ participation

Generate quantifiable feedback/ statistics

Website

Twitter

Facebook

First Quarter

Proposed Per-issue Budget for Editorial, Pre-Media, Pre-press Production and Design. SansRival Magalogue Volume 2, Numbers 1-10

Editor in Chief 75,000.00Managing Editor 30,000.00

Associate Editor 30,000.00

Art Director 30,000.00Food Stylist 30,000.00Photographer 30,000.00Copy Editor 10,000.00Proof Reader 5,000.00Contributing writers 2,000 x 6 12,000.00Logistic support 8,000.00Messengerial and Communication Management fee 24,000.00Accounting, Legal, Back officeMeals 10,000.00Supplies and Materials 6,000.00Total 300,000.00

Schedule of submission of offers | sansRival 2012-2013 • Volume 2

Volume 2 Theme Datedate of submission of offers to marketing

No 1From Farm to SupermarketRaw and Fresh

April 15-May 14 1-Mar

No 2 Filipino Cuisine May 15- June 19 2-Apr

No 3 Japanese June 20-July 19 1-May

No 4 Korean July 20-August 19 4-Jun

No 5 Singapore/Malaysian August 20-September 19 2-Jul

No 6 Vietnamese September 20-October 19 1-Aug

No 7 French/French Fusion October 20-November 24 3-Sep

No 8Frugal cuisine: what to do with your christmas left overs and more

November 25-December 30 4-Oct

No 9Chinese New Year(Spring Festival)

January 1-January 30 8-Nov

No 10Baby Food, Fun Food, Children’s Food

February 1-March 14 5-Dec

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10

Editor-in-Chief Ige RamosManaging Editor Glenna AquinoAssociate Editor Roda MasinagArt Director Joan SoroPhotography Stanley OngFood Stylist Sandee MasiganAssistant Food Stylist David SiytangcoContributing Editors Joseph Cortes Alya Honasan Tracey PaskaProofreader Bernie C. LizardoManagement LDV and Associates

VP-Food Services Division Beth Romualdez





SansRival Magalogue is published every 15th of the monthby Rustan Supercenters, Inc.4th floor, Morning Star Center347 Sen. Gil Puyat Ave., Makati CityTelefax: 899-1915Website: www.rustansfresh.comE-mail: [email protected]

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11. Finally, embrance change and match the rebranding effort prescribed by the company and

continue to innovate

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Volume 5 • No. 4 • December 2015 • -P-99.00

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Volume 5 • No. 4 • December 2015 • -P-99.00

Menu

The Pleasure of TasteVolume 5 • No. 4 • December 2015

Rustan’s Supermarkets are located at Makati Area: Glorietta, Greenbelt 1, Paseo de Magallanes, Alphaland Makati Place, Paseo Center, Century City Mall, San Antonio Plaza. North Area: Shangri-La Plaza,

Gateway Mall, Katipunan, Tomas Morato, P. Guevarra, Corinthian Hills, Village Center Antipolo. South Area: Ayala Alabang Village, Evia Lifestyle Center. Cebu: Oakridge Business Park, Ayala Center,

Arcenas Estate. CDO: Ayala Centrio Mall. Also visit Marketplace by Rustan’s at Rockwell Power Plant Mall and Central Square Bonifacio High Street.

4 Proust QuestionnaireHis Excellency Julio Camarena Villaseñor,

Ambassador of Mexico, on the historical and culinary ties that bind our two nations

By Nicolas B. Pichay

6 Exotic Yet Familiar Food at Cocina PeruviaBy Cyrene de la Rosa

8 Some Like It Hot! By Maan d’Asis Pamaran

10 A Stellar Loaf of Bread | Brown Rice and Shallot Bread

By Gretchen Consunji-Lim

12 From the Middle East to Ireland on a Silk Road

By Dolly Dy-Zulueta

14 Falafel, Kofta and Hummus | Tabbouleh and Mansaf

16 Palestinian Chicken | M’jaddara | Saffron Rice

18 Cinnamon Date Cake | Baklava

20 Rabanadas | Lechona Tolimense

22 Rustan’s ShopperTami Ledesma finds that eating healthfully

also nurtures a positive flow of energyBy Maan d’Asis Pamaran

24 GrapevineDrink a cup of Christmas cheer

with Manille Liqueur de Dalandan and winter sangrias

30 Checkout CounterGod Jul! Christmas in Sweden

By Yvette TanIllustration by Horacio Makabenta

Follow along on a movable feast with recipes tracing the ingredients

and cooking techniques that originated in the land of Jesus’ birth

and flavored the cuisines of Latin America and Asia. From aromatic spices to fragrant fruits, the food and drink of disparate Christmas

traditions around the world reveal the close ties that bind us all.

Ige RamosEditor-in-Chief

Managing Editor Tracey PaskaArt Director Ed Yap

Photographer Stanley OngFood Stylist Sandee Masigan

Associate Editor Jojo SerranoProofreader Bernie C. LizardoIllustrator Horacio Makabenta

Contributing Editors

Maan D’Asis PamaranNicolas Pichay

Cyrene de la RosaYvette Tan

Dolly Dy-Zulueta

Management IRDS / LDV & Associates


Ambassador Bienvenido R. Tantoco, Sr.Chairman EmEritus, RSCI


Donnie V. TantocoPrEsidEnt

Pierre DeplanckCEO

Marketing Director Ana M. PunongbayanAd & Promo Manager Pinky Lim

Published by Rustan Supercenters, Inc. 4/F Morning Star Center

347 Sen. Gil Puyat Avenue, Makati CityTelefax: 899-1915

Website: www.rustansfresh.com

1. E-mail: [email protected]: @rustansfresh

Follow us on Twitter at http://twitter.com/rustansfresh and like us on Facebook at

http://www.facebook.com/rustansfresh http://www.facebook.com/RustansSansRival

Rustan’s sansRival magalogue is distributed for free to Star Sapphire card members.

Copyright ©2015 Rustan Supercenters, Inc. All rights reserved. Neither this publication nor any part of it may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means—electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise—without the prior permission of sansRival magalogue.

On Christmas, the Galleon Trade, and how Indian food became spicy

Suddenly, Christmas is here again, and for us at Rustan’s Supermarket and SansRival, it was another busy and productive year. This is always a good time to reflect on what we have achieved, especially in how we were able to better serve our customers.

Because Christmas is many things to many people, we decided to do away with all the glitz usually associated with the holiday season. Instead, we searched for a deeper meaning of Christmas and how this tradition came to our land in the first place.

For years, I have wondered what Jesus ate when he was growing up in Nazareth, and what did Joseph and Mary eat when they fled to Egypt? These questions were answered when I visited Palestine-born Chef Abraham Phelan at the Silk Road Kitchen in Dublin. Abraham explained how Mediterranean cuisine is much influenced by the Middle East, and how olive oil, wheat, grapes, and pomegranate are just a few of the ingredients present in their dishes.

As Christians moved westward, the recipes, ingredients, and the manner of cooking

traveled with them. From Europe, the Christmas tradition crossed the Atlantic Ocean and spread throughout the Americas. When the navigator Fray Andres de Urdaneta

was in the Philippines, he discovered tornoviaje, or the return route

to the Americas. This discovery gave way to

the Manila-Acapulco Galleon Trade, one of the early trans-global

trade initiatives that brought both the material and

intangible cultures of Spain to the Philippines via Mexico.

Since it was the Galleon Trade that brought the pronounced cultural exchange between Mexico and the Philippines, and we will celebrate this year as the bicentennial of its ending, it is apt that we feature Mexican Ambassador Julio Camarena Villaseñor, who speaks about the food and cultural ties that bind our two countries. Along with those from Mexico, we also feature recipes from Peru, Brazil, and Colombia.

But for the Galleon Trade, the chilli would have not reached Asia and, thus, Szechuan, Thai, and Indian cuisines would have been different from what is now familiar to us. Ponchit Ponce Enrile of the Chilliheads, an organization of chilli lovers, gives us an insight into the Scoville rating of this Mexican import. As we partake of our Christmas fare, why not pause for a moment and consider the history and origin of our food, and how the chilli has done a complete circle by influencing the food of the Middle East.

Our sincerest thanks go out to Andrew Masigan for letting us use the facilities of XO46 Heritage Bistro, and to Chef Tanya Dizon for kitchen-testing and cooking the featured recipes. Our gratitude, as well, go to Chef Him Uy de Baron of Cocina Peruvia, Gretchen Consunji-Lim of Manilabake, and most specially to Chef Abraham Phelan and Rikke Callaghan of the Silk Road Kitchen for providing us with the central recipes for this issue.

Have a hot and spicy holiday season!

2 December 2015

From the Editor’s Table

sansRival 3

Slide | 63

Posadas and Ponche NavideñoPonche Navideño

Ingredients175 grams small apples, chopped5 small pink guavas, sliced115 grams raisins or prunes, or a mixture3 unpeeled oranges, scrubbed and

sliced ½ cup dried hibiscus flowers2 pieces sugar cane stalks, peeled and

cut into strips1 or 2 (6-inch) sticks cinnamon12 cups water1 cup dark brown sugar or muscovado

sugarBrandy, rum, or tequila to taste

ProcedureCombine apples, guavas, raisins and/or prunes, oranges, dried hibiscus, sugar cane, cinnamon sticks, and water in a large stock pot. Bring to a boil, then lower the heat and cover the pot with a lid. Simmer the ponche for one hour and then add sugar to taste. Cover and simmer for another 10 minutes. If flavoring with liquor, add to taste and simmer for a few minutes longer. Serve hot in mugs.

Christmas in Two CountriesBy Nicolas B. Pichay

Given the cultural and culinary similarities between the two countries he officially traverses, His Excellency Julio Camarena Villaseñor, Ambassador of Mexico, reveals a warm affection toward the Philippines, which makes him feel like he has never left home. Possessing an adventurous palate, he has admitted in previous interviews to having enjoyed durian fruit but not yet having the willpower to try balut. Given time, we think his natural curiosity for the way others live, eat, and enjoy life will make him try this and other Philippine delicacies.

In this Proustian questionnaire, Ambassador Camarena explains how common words have brought our two cultures together, and enumerates the gustatory delights that ensure Mexico and the Philippines continue to enjoy such close ties. Enjoy, too, his observations about Mexican spices, authentic tortillas and traditional Christmas food, and his confirmation that early Filipinos in Mexico were instrumental in developing the now-famous tequila.

course, we also have chocolate for Noche Buena. Ours is an Aztec drink; the cocoa bean was their currency, and when they wanted to treat their guests, they would make a chocolate drink.

What other holidays do Mexicans hold closest to your hearts? What food is typically prepared on this occasion?Dia de los Muertos—we bring food and flowers to the cemeteries, similar to the way you do [for Undas]. We bake a special bread that has dried fruits inside and sugar on top—pan de muerto (“bread of the dead”). We also have tamales and mole.

What characterizes Mexican food? It tends to be more salty, more spicy, and has more citrus nuances, [and] it is very rich in chilli peppers. Mexico has 31 states and each has its own traditional food items. Each state has a different mole—some are red, brown, black, or yellow. Our dishes have basic staples like corn, tortillas, cacao, chilli peppers, nuts, and beautiful vegetables like tomatoes and beans.

From which states of Mexico are your favorite dishes? The Yucatán has beautiful food that has a Mayan influence. The state of Puebla has wonderful chocolate moles and the state of Oaxaca also has a lot of fantastic food. I would be dishonest if I tell you that I prefer this one or that one, but I do think these areas have very special dishes. You must travel through Mexico to taste our different flavors.

Please help settle the debate: corn tortillas or flour tortillas?The typical tortilla is corn, which is a basic staple. However, in the northern states of

Mexico, flour tortillas are the basic staple. Corn tortillas are all different colors—you can get yellow tortillas, blue tortillas, purple, green...

Which essential ingredient in Mexican cuisine is not available in Manila but should be?The funny thing is that a lot of products in Mexican food, you already have here: tomatoes, corn, cacao, chayote, pasote, camote. It’s amazing how many products came from Mexico—you kept them, but the way you cook your food also has a lot of influences from Asia.

What is your favorite Mexican expression regarding food or eating?Before we start a meal, we say “¡Buen provecho!”

When you have a cold, you take lemon for vitamin C and tequila to tender the pain. They say, “If tequila doesn’t cure you, at least it will make you forget that you’re sick.” The grandmothers would always give us tequila to soothe away colds, so we were very young when we started drinking it.

There’s another saying for mezcal: “Para todo mal, mezcal. Para todo bien, también.” (“For every ill, mezcal. For every good as well.”)

Where do you eat if you are craving Mexican food in the Philippines?We end up eating at home because there are few very truly Mexican restaurants that bring the Mexican taste. There are some [later citing Órale! in Fort Bonifacio and A’Toda Madre in Makati], but we still have yet to look into one that will bring the delicacies of Mexico here.

Which Filipino food reminds you of Mexico and which Mexican food do you think may have Philippine origins?The 250-year link between Mexico and the Philippines involved a lot of influence on language. Thirty percent of Tagalog is Spanish and nine percent comes from Nahuatl, the Aztec language. A lot of the food eaten here comes from Mexico and they continue to have the Nahuatl name—camote, sayote, achuete, chico. A lot of what you eat, like singkamas (jicama) and pasote (epazote), are products of Mexico that you’ve incorporated into the food of the Philippines.

Which do you prefer: tequila or mezcal?I happen to come from the state of Jalisco, and tequila originally comes from the city of Tequila in Jalisco. I also come from a tequila-producing family so I grew up drinking it instead of mezcal. I think the best tequila or the best mezcal is the one that you like the best.

Both tequila and mezcal have “Denomination of Origin”: if they don’t come from Mexico, they’re not tequila or mezcal. Tequila is only produced in five states, so if it doesn’t come from those states, it is not tequila. It also must come from blue agave (cactus) and if it’s not 100% blue agave, it is not tequila.

Mezcal comes from the green agave. There’s a myth that says tequila has a worm in it [but] the one that has the worm is mezcal. It has a smoky taste because the production of mezcal is by smoking the heart of the green cactus.

There is an anecdote that Filipinos in Mexico, via the Manila-Acapulco Galleon Trade, helped discover tequila—is there any historical truth to this?There is an important truth. [To make tequila] you take the blue agave cactus and peel the leaves off, then the heart is pressed and the liquid is distilled. The distillation process of tequila was learned from the way Filipinos distilled your coconut drink (lambanog). This distillation was learned by the Mexicans and adapted to the tequila.

Which cultural traits do you feel Mexicans and Filipinos distinctly have in common?I think the most important [shared] trait is the concept of family and of how we treat our families—our mothers and grandmothers, the lolas and the lolos, the titas and the titos. So, when we’re here, the warmth of the family is felt, just like it is in Mexico.

What dish would you recommend a visitor to Mexico should try? And which Filipino dish would you encourage your compatriots to try here?In Mexico, I always say to try the chicken or turkey en mole [and] different tacos and quesadillas. But I will also encourage them to try a very special dish from the state of Puebla called chiles en nogada. It’s a long green spicy pepper stuffed with chicken, beef, cheese or fish, and then cooked in a nut sauce with pomegranate seeds.

If [Mexicans] want to try a typical Filipino dish, I always suggest kare-kare because I think it is the closest to a mole. I also tell them, “If you eat pork, try lechon.” sR

Which Christmas traditions in the Philippines remind you of the holidays in Mexico?The concept of Misa de Gallo is very important in Mexico. It’s a beautiful mass with beautiful caroling and singing to welcome the birth of Jesus Christ.

What food is typically prepared for Christmas in Mexican homes?We have a ponche, which is a very traditional drink [following page]. Then, of course, we eat beautiful food like tamales [filled with] chicken, pork or beef, or if they’re sweet, raisins or dried fruits. We also have chicken or turkey en mole. It is cooked in a chocolate sauce that has seven different chillies and seven different nuts. Of

One particularly lovely Christmas custom in Mexico is the nine-day celebration called Las Posadas (Spanish for “inns”), during which local residents recreate the Holy Family’s search for shelter. “Each family has a posada one night and they take turns [with] a different posada every night [until] it ends with the Misa de Gallo on Noche Buena,” explains Ambassador Camarena. “A group of people lights candles and goes around singing with their candles. They go from door to door asking for a place to stay and they either carry [statues of] the Virgin Mary, Joseph, and the Baby Jesus, or they dress up like them. Finally, at the last moment, a door opens and they are let in.”

Afterwards, celebrants enjoy mugs of hot ponche Navideño (Christmas punch), a traditional, fruity beverage spiked with rum, brandy, or tequila. In addition to piloncillo (whole unrefined cane sugar), an essential ingredient of ponche is tejocote, an indigenous, crabapple-like fruit grown in the Mexican highlands. However, because tejocotes are not widely exported, apples are commonly substituted.

sansRival 54 December 2015

Proust Questionnaire

Cocina Peruvia Offers the Exotic Yet Familiar

By Cyrene de la Rosa

In recent years, Peruvian cuisine has surged into the limelight, thanks largely to its diverse, multicultural flavors and rich selection of ingre-dients. Its reputation was further enhanced when the Lima-based restaurant Central garnered the #5 spot in this year’s “The World’s 50 Best Restaurants Awards” held last June in London.

Prior to 2011, no Peruvian restaurants were included on “The World’s 50 Best Restaurants” list, which is a well-respected compilation of restaurants sponsored by San Pellegrino and Acqua Panna. Now, there are a total of three, making the country that is best-known for archaeological landmarks, like the ancient Incan city of Machu Picchu, into a popular culinary destination as well.

Historically, Peruvian cuisine is said to have been influenced by the country’s varied geography and its history of European, Asian and West African immigration. Its popular dishes range from ceviches and potato-based dishes called causa, to a variety of sauces— many of which incorporate native Peruvian peppers like the aji amarillo—and the hipsters’ favorite grain quinoa. For the longest time, Manila associated this South American cuisine only with the popular peri-peri chicken, but thanks to the influx of a handful of new Peruvian restaurants, that is about to change.

Earlier this year, Cocina Peruvia opened in Bonifacio Global City, under Mother Spice Food Corporation—the same group which also owns Slappy Cakes, Coca, and Mango Tree. SansRival sat down with its executive chef consultant, Chef Him Uy de Baron, and discussed what the new restaurant is all about.

According to Chef Him, Cocina Peruvia was the brainchild of Eric and Emelda Teng, co-owners of Mother Spice, who got into the cuisine after dining at Lima, a Peruvian restaurant in London and one of the top dining destinations in the UK. The couple thought it was a cuisine that Filipinos would like, as Peruvian food is among the top emerging cuisines of the world and its flavors are somewhat familiar due to shared influences from the Japanese, Chinese, and Spanish.

Cocina Peruvia is positioned as a casual restaurant serving home-style dishes that are commonly found in the street stalls and everyday dining tables of Peru. Aside from striving to keep it authentic, Eric and Emelda also wanted to pro-

vide a nice and easy vibe that customers would like and a place where families and groups could share meals and enjoy each other’s company.

Chef Him pointed out that although we have a lot of shared influences, our approach in reflecting it in our cuisine is very different. The availability of ingredients also has a lot to do with it: Peru has one of the most diverse backyards in the world, including the Amazon, which makes the variety of their produce even more amazing.

We also differ in how we fuse outside influences with our own heritage and traditions. Here in the Philippines, we mostly keep the cuisines intact with minor changes, so our Spanish, Japanese, and Chinese-inspired dishes look almost the same as their counterparts in their own homeland. But Peruvians seem to have fused these culinary influences into their way of cooking. Wok stir-frying is a common technique

that has been adapted, as well as the way seafood and raw fish are infused with Peruvians’ love of chillies and citrus. They have melded the borrowed ways with their own to come up with a cuisine that is distinctly unique to Peru.

Cocina Peruvia has gone with using flavor profiles that they themselves liked and have adapted to local tastes while making sure not to stray too far from its origins. Current bestsellers include anticuchos (skewers of grilled meat), lomo saltado (beef tenderloin with fried potatoes), a Peruvian-style adobo, and a corn panna cotta dessert from pastry chef Miko Aspiras. Those who have not yet experienced Peruvian food are encouraged to try this cuisine described “as exotic yet at the same time familiar.” sR

Cocina Peruvia is located at G/F Bonifacio One Technology Tower, Rizal Drive corner 31st Street, Fort Bonifacio, Taguig City.

Anticuchos de PolloCourtesy of Chef Him Uy de Baron

Ingredients For the chicken320 grams chicken fillet diced into 1½-inch

cubes 3 tablespoons olive oil ¼ teaspoon cumin½ teaspoon paprika Salt and pepper to taste

For the chimichurri¼ cup mint¼ cup parsley

½ cup cilantroJuice of 1 lemon3 tablespoons red wine vinegar¼ cup olive oil2 cloves garlic1 tablespoon dried chili flakes

ProcedureCombine all chicken ingredients in a bowl and marinate for at least 30 minutes to 2 hours.

Combine all chimichurri ingredients in a food processor and blitz. Season to taste with salt.

Soak 4 bamboo sticks in water for at least 20 minutes. Skewer chicken pieces with the sticks and reserve the leftover marinade. Preheat a grill and grill the anticuchos over low heat for about 3 minutes per side. Baste the chicken with oil from the marinade with every turn.

Serve the anticuchos with chimichurri.

PHOTO BY LEXIS LISAMA

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6 December 2015 sansRival 7

Sriracha may be a “thing” these days as more and more people reach for that rooster logo-ed bottle from Thailand, but chilli has long been a part of Filipino cuisine. In fact, Ponchit Ponce Enrile, one of the administrators of Chilliheads Philippines, says research has shown that it was introduced via India by the Portuguese through the spice trade route even before the Spanish occupation here. “According to taxonomist Danilo Tiu, it is universally used in the Philippines [and] that all tribes and races in the country have their word for this spice. Examples would be the Bilaan tribe’s katumbal, Bicol’s pasitis, rimo-rimo, and sanggariya. It is silit in Ilokano, lara in Kapampangan, kulikot in Cebuano, and ugto-ugto in Ilonggo.”

He adds that while Bicolanos have a reputation for eating hot dishes such as gising-gising or Bicol Express, almost all dining tables in the Philippines have a bottle of sawsawan that ultimately contains a few pieces of chilli.

The Negrenses are famous for their sinamak—a piquant mixture of vinegar with chillies, ginger, garlic, and lemongrass, while the Tausugs have their palapa hot paste made with lots of labuyo, ginger, and sakurab (a kind of spring onion). “Even our instant noodles have gone the spicy route. If you go to all 200 branches of fast-food chain Mang Inasal, you get at least one chilli pod to crush with toyo and calamansi per order of chicken,” he notes.

Ponchit’s own affinity for heat actually has a fast-food connection: He has been an avid gardener since he was a 14-year-old high school student. “My mentors gave me suggestions on herbs and spices to grow. At that time, many did not appreciate herbs such as basil, but they liked chilli, as it was a mainstay on the dining table for many fried and barbecued dishes. So, I continued to cultivate these and developed my taste for various types of chillies,” he recounts fondly. “Besides, when I am eating out on a

small budget, if I add chillies, the food seems to last longer!”

Silly over SiliHis passion for chillies is shared by other avid gardeners and those who like to turn up the heat, and led to the formation of a group called Chilliheads Philippines, or Chp. “Before Chp was formed, all of us thought we were alone in the Philippines doing this stuff. We would join groups abroad, but a college guy by the name of Jay de Leon put up a group in the Philippines. I was the seventh invited to join,” he recalls. “In the beginning, we would go to Facebook groups from the uSa and Europe and ‘like’ their posts, hoping they would share seeds.”

Within eight months, the group had grown to 200 members. “Everybody grew different super hots,” he says. Ponchit then took the initiative to import and sell seeds at a minimal price to members; after just two months, the group’s

membership reached one thousand. In October 2014, the Chilliheads held their

first chilli festival in a small restaurant parking lot in Quezon City. About 300 people gathered to exchange ideas and hold a hot sauce contest. The field of 20 entries was a good and happy start, according to Ponchit. Agriculture guru Zac Sarian took notice and featured the group in Agriculture Magazine. “From there, our member-ship grew to about 3,500 at this time. We had our second chilli fest this past summer, attended by 600 Chilliheads, and our hot sauce contest had 200 entries. The next one will be bigger, and will be held at the Quezon Memorial Circle.”

Heat IndexPonchit explains that the heat of a chilli is measured in Scoville Heat Units (Shu). “This is the number that denotes how many parts of water one has to put on a gram of dry chilli powder for the heat not to be discernible. “If a gram of labuyo takes 60,000 grams of water for the heat to be non-discernible, then the SHU is 60,000. The Shu is no longer measured through human judgment, because different people have different taste sensitivity. They are measured by a few laboratories in the uS that have the capability. The hottest chilli today is the Carolina Reaper that packs 2.2 million Shu.”

He also shares that about 100 or so varieties of chillies are grown in the country as a hobby and are mostly what we call “super hots” (300,000 Shu and above). Among the local varieties is labuyo (30,000 to 60,000 Shu), which was introduced by the Portuguese centuries ago and grew wild in this country, hence its name derived from the word laboy meaning “wild.” There is also the siling haba used in sinigang and the famous Bicol Express, which is 1,000 to 10,000 Shu. The Marusot (also called demonyo or diablo) is closely related to the Indian Bhut Jolokia and packs heat at 100,000 to 400,000 Shu.

Pleasure in PainPonchit gives even more scientific explanations about his favorite produce. “The active ingredient in chilli is capsaicin. When it touches any part of your body, the brain receives a message that there is pain on that part of the body.” There is no actual burning—just a sensation or perception, he adds. “That is why, even if you have successfully washed off the chilli, the sensation is still there—the message has already been sent to your brain.”

The body counteracts the feeling of burning or pain by releasing endorphins, or “happy hormones,” which are the same ones released when you exert effort during strenuous activity.

“That is why chilli eaters say they experience a ‘high’ of sorts. This is good because the release of endorphins and being happy makes one healthier,” he muses.

For those who find the pain from skin contact too “50 Shades of Grey”-ish, he suggests gently washing off the chilli with soap and water. To counteract burning in the mouth, drink mammal’s milk containing casein, a fat-loving substance that essentially has an effect on capsaicin like that of soap on grease.

Take the Chilli ChallengeThose who want to join Chilliheads Philippines are more than welcome, Ponchit says. “It is a very loose group; there are no officials and no president. We do not discriminate; those who grow, cook, eat—and even those who hate

chillies—can attend the events.” A chilli meet is held every other Sunday at the Green Daisy restaurant on Maginhawa Street in up Village. There are seed swaps and chilli- and hot-food tastings, as well as other stuff for sale such as seeds, plants, sauces, fertilizers, and other growing supplies.

The group is open to all enthusiasts, but there is an initiation rite for those who wish to become a member of the exclusive Labuyo 100 circle: one has to eat 100 labuyo pods in 10 minutes. “Many can actually do this in three minutes!” he reveals. If you think you are up to the challenge, or simply want to hang out with a group of hotheads, send a request to be added to the Chilliheads Facebook page and check for announcements on upcoming events. sR

When capsaicin, the active ingredient in chilli, touches any part of your body, the brain receives a burning sensation. The body counteracts by releasing endorphins, the happy hormones, a high of sorts that is good for health.

Some Like It Hot!

A pepper-promoting Chillihead is spreading labuyo love

By Maan D’Asis Pamaran

PHOTO BY PONCHIT PONCE ENRILE


Brown Rice, Shallot and Rosemary Loaves

Adapted by Gretchen Consunji-Lim from a recipe by Peter Reinhart

Yields 2 (9 × 5) loaves

Ingredients6 cups unbleached all-purpose flour3 tablespoons muscovado1 teaspoon instant yeast1 tablespoon coarse sea salt1¾ cups water½ cup milk1 cup cooked brown rice¼ cup fried shallots1½ teaspoons finely chopped fresh

rosemary or scant ½ teaspoon dried rosemary

Flour for dusting the counter

ProcedureIn the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a paddle attachment, combine the flour, muscovado, yeast, salt, water, and milk. Mix on low speed for 3 minutes until a shaggy mass forms. Let the dough rest for 10 minutes.

Meanwhile switch to the dough hook attachment. Add the brown rice, shallots, and rosemary to the bowl. Turn the mixer up to medium low and knead for 3 to 4 minutes until a soft dough forms. It will be sticky.

Turn the dough out onto a very lightly floured counter. Shape into a ball by gathering the edges of the dough to the center, pinching them together to close. Turn the dough into a lightly oiled bowl, pinched side down. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and put in the refrigerator

overnight.The next day, take the dough out

of the refrigerator and turn out onto a lightly floured counter. Let the dough rest for 30 minutes.

Divide the dough in two and shape each half into a ball, handling the dough no more than needed. Take one ball and pat out into a rectangle, keeping the length to 9 inches. Roll up the dough, jellyroll style, sealing the edges against the counter. Transfer to a lightly greased baking pan, seam side down, and cover the pan with a kitchen towel. Repeat with the second dough ball.

Let the shaped dough rise until double in size, 1 to 2 hours depending on the temperature of the room. Bake in a preheated oven at 350°F for 50 minutes, or until the loaves are golden brown in color and sound hollow when thumped on the bottom.

Notes � To test that your yeast is active,

proof half a teaspoon in some warm water mixed with sugar. It is active if bubbles appear after 5 to 10 minutes.

�On very warm days, use cold water and milk to keep the temperature of your dough cool so it does not rise too quickly during kneading. The dough will go into the refrigerator overnight where yeast activity, albeit slowed down, will continue.

A Stellar Loaf of Breadby Gretchen Consunji-Lim as told to La Gordita

Using brown rice and shallots is part of the move to put local produce into our products. From the super scant history I know of Philippine breads, I think we have historically been using mostly just flour, yeast, and sugar through the years—unlike the Vietnamese, who supposedly use rice in their banh mi buns, and Latin Americans, who use cassava [and other flours]. I also thought that maybe since our flour isn’t of the same quality as one would find in a wheat-producing country, perhaps using something local to add to the flour might give the bread something different in terms of taste and even nutrition.

I didn’t think to use rice at once, and my first tests using local produce in bread, apart from Pangasinan salt and muscovado, were with Palawan honey paired with oatmeal. But that recipe was sourdough-based, and I’m still getting to a point where I can make it in volume consistently well. I also did first tests on other stuff, like ube (purple yam), kamote (sweet potato), kalabasa (squash), and local corn; hopefully, I can roll those out eventually when I can bake them consistently well, too. So, as I haven’t yet rolled out that product, I had to think of something else.

Then, I turned to rice. I had seen it in a bread recipe over 15 years ago, but it didn’t catch my fancy then. And I remembered a recipe from one of my favorite bread bakers, Peter Reinhart: a wild rice and onion loaf. So, I based my brown rice recipe on that, tweaking it to use brown rice [from Cotabato] and Ilocos shallots—two ingredients we had in our inventory in Sérye Café—and formed them into boules instead of panning them into rectangular loaf pans. When we had people taste-test our loaf, it was well liked across age and class groups.

The idea of using a stencil [on the bread] came about when I was asked to do bread for a wedding anniversary with a Game of Thrones theme. Their requirement was big, hearth-type loaves. Since I live under a rock with no television, I had no idea what Game of Thrones was, and so I did some research. That got me hooked and I thought to incorporate something like a crest, if [the couple] had one, to make the breads look a bit more royal in a medieval way—rustic looking and not too polished.

This was for the wedding anniversary of

Tessa and Dennis Valdes, and sure enough, they did have a “V” crest. If you browse through the pictures of Manilabake’s Facebook page, you’ll see a loaf with the crest. You’ll also see “direwolf” bread, which will only mean something to you if you have followed the television series. I don’t, and in fact, that clip of someone giving another person a direwolf-shaped bread is the only part of Game of Thrones that I’ve ever seen. I got hooked and suggested

making that bread as well, so that the breads would really be on-theme.

In order not to waste all of our research and the trial-and-error with stenciling (I’m very lucky to have staff who are good with crafting and are always up to a challenge), we began using it on our brown rice loaves, with our sun-star logo as the stencil. sR

For inquiries, contact Manilabake at 998-271-8109.

A person cannot live on bread alone—unless the loaf in question is the delightful Brown Rice, Shallot, and Rosemary Boules from Manilabake. In her own words, founder and artisan baker Gretchen Consunji-Lim describes how she incorporated local ingredients into these distinctive loaves and reveals the television show that inspired their starry motif. She also shares a bake-at-home version of Manilabake’s recipe—perfect for your Christmas table.

sansRival 11

La Gordita Bakes

10 December 2015

Slide | 64

From the Middle East to Ireland on a Silk Road

Chef Abraham Phelan shares his culinary journey from a fruit-farming village in Jerusalem to a historic castle in Dublin

The Chester Beatty Library, located at the Dublin Castle in Dublin, Ireland, is a must-see for visitors doing a European tour. Undoubtedly the premier museum in the country and one of the best in the whole of Europe, it is a showcase of the great artistic treasures of the world, as it houses the collections of mining magnate Sir Alfred Chester Beatty, including miniature paintings, drawings, rare books, and decorative arts from the Middle East, Asia, North Africa, and Europe. In addition, it stands on the grounds of historic Dublin Castle, which served as the seat of government in Ireland from 1171 to 1922.

These days, people who visit the Chester Beatty Library go there not only to see Egyptian papyrus texts, European Medieval and Renaissance manuscripts, and other treasures within the museum, but also to dine at The Silk Road Café, which has become the go-to place in Dublin for great Middle Eastern and Mediterranean cuisines.

Heading the kitchen is owner and chef Abraham Phelan, a Palestinian who migrated

to Ireland and opened The Silk Road Café 15 years ago. Sometimes, when he looks around the restaurant, it still feels surreal how packed and popular it is now, considering the fact that when he first arrived in Dublin, nobody knew what falafel and hummus were. Now, they are sold in supermarkets and food stores, and quite a number of other Middle Eastern cafés and restaurants have opened around Dublin. He feels good about having a hand in introducing and popularizing Middle Eastern and Mediterranean food in the city that he now calls home.

Born in the hills of Jerusalem, in a little fruit-farming village called Beit Surik, Chef Abraham was raised in a family that grew plums, figs, almonds, olives, and grapes. His mother was busy cooking every day, since she had 11 children, and Chef Abraham, who has always been interested in cooking, would help her make jams, stuff vine leaves, and prepare dinner for the family. He later moved to Crete, Greece, and opened his first restaurant, Sorba the Greek, in a little fishing village called Kartestellos, where

he had a daily supply of fresh fish and produce, and learned to cook Mediterranean dishes with some help from friends and their own moms. Thus, his expertise in Middle Eastern food was reinforced with good knowledge of Mediterranean dishes.

He met an Irish lady named Caroline in Crete in the 1980s and fell in love with her, and his life was never the same again. They traveled around Europe one winter season and decided to visit Caroline’s family in Dublin, Ireland, for a few days. Those few days turned into 30 years and produced six wonderful children. And so, Dublin became Chef Abraham’s home.

Although there was a bad recession when the couple arrived in the country, he got over the hump and was able to open The Silk Road Café at the Chester Beatty Library. The number of diners in his café grew with the increase in visitors to the museum, and soon he was doing catering work as well. Then, the idea of putting up a cooking school came.

Looking for a suitable place, Chef Abraham ended up purchasing another restaurant

called Little Jerusalem, where he specializes in Palestinian and Lebanese food. There, he started organizing a few cookery classes, but again, the venue was too small to accommodate regular classes. He finally found a place not too far from the Dublin city center and put up The Silk Road Kitchen Cookery School, where he personally handles two-hour short courses on Middle Eastern and Mediterranean cooking. “Our first class in August 2014 was a little nerve-wracking because we didn’t know what to expect from each other, but it went well and the students loved it,” says Chef Abraham, who is now looking for other teachers so that the school can offer more courses.

As a chef, restaurateur, caterer, and owner and main teacher of his cooking school, Chef Abraham is most proud of the fact that he was instrumental in introducing and popularizing Middle Eastern and Mediterranean cuisines in Ireland. Two thumbs up for Chef Abraham Phelan! sR

PHOTOS COURTESY OF THE SILK ROAD KITCHEN

By Dolly Dy-Zulueta

Recipes courtesy of Chef Abraham Phelan


Slide | 65

HummusA common item on a mezze platter, this creamy dip of mashed chickpeas traces its roots to Egypt and is one of the most well-known Middle Eastern dishes in the world.

In a food processor, combine 240 grams cooked chickpeas, 4 tablespoons tahini (sesame seed paste), juice of ½ lemon, 1½ tablespoons olive oil, 2 garlic cloves, ½ teaspoon salt, and 7 tablespoons water and blend until it has a slightly runny consistency. Add ½ teaspoon cumin if desired. For a thinner hummus, add a bit of water; and if you would like it spicier, add a bit of ground chilli.

Kofta with Tahini SauceA type of meatloaf made with minced lamb and a mix of spices and fresh herbs, kofta is popular in countries such as Pakistan, Lebanon, Iran, Morocco, and Jordan. Chef Abraham Phelan of Dublin’s Silk Road Café serves his kofta with a tahini sauce.

In a blender, combine ½ spring onion, 1 garlic clove, 1 teaspoon olive oil, 1⁄8 teaspoon black pepper, 1⁄8 teaspoon nutmeg, ¼ teaspoon salt, and a pinch each of fresh parsley, mint, and coriander. Blend the spices and herbs until they are well mixed, and then combine the mixture with 150 grams minced lamb in a separate bowl.

Grease a baking dish with olive oil and fill with the kofta mixture. Cover with aluminum foil and bake in a 180°C/355°F oven for 25 minutes.

Make a tahini sauce by crushing a bit of fresh mint and 1 clove garlic, then adding them to a bowl with salt, juice of ½ lemon, and 3 tablespoons tahini. Pour the sauce over the kofta and return the dish to the oven (still at 180°C) for 3 minutes.

Dry roast 2 tablespoons pine nuts until they are golden, and sprinkle over the kofta when it’s ready.

MansafLess known than hummus and falafel, this traditional Palestinian dish is also the national dish of Jordan and is commonly found in the cuisines of Iraq, Syria, and Saudi Arabia.

Cut 100 grams lamb into large cubes and season with ¼ teaspoon each of cardamom, ground nutmeg, and ground cinnamon, and salt and pepper to taste.

Heat 2 tablespoons olive oil in a pot and brown the meat. Add 250 ml water and 1 bay leaf, and simmer for approximately 40 minutes or until the lamb is tender. Remove the meat from the stock, making sure to reserve the stock for the sauce.

Add 3 tablespoons Greek yoghurt to a pan and stir until smooth. Add enough lamb stock to the yoghurt to make it thin—it should have the consistency of cream. Add the cooked meat to the sauce and cook for approximately 20 minutes.

To serve, place freshly cooked rice on a large plate and arrange the lamb pieces around it. Pour the yoghurt sauce over the rice and garnish with toasted cashews and pine nuts, and chopped fresh parsley, mint, and coriander.

TabboulehAnother popular item on a Middle Eastern mezze platter, tabbouleh is an Arabian vegetarian dish traditionally made with bulgur wheat, although this ingredient can be substituted with couscous without sacrificing any of its wonderful flavor.

Mix 150 grams bulgur wheat or maftoul (Palestinian couscous) and 12 tablespoons boiling water in a bowl and set aside for 30 to 45 minutes or until al dente. Add 2 tablespoons olive oil and ¼ teaspoon salt, and mix well.

Finely chop 1 large tomato, ¼ cucumber, 1 medium red onion, 2 spring onions, ¼ lemon, and a handful each of fresh mint and parsley. Add juice from remaining ¾ lemon and mix well. Combine the finely chopped vegetables with the bulgur wheat.

Tip: You can use 150 grams couscous instead of bulgur wheat. Add 6 tablespoons of cold water and set aside for 30 minutes.

FalafelA traditional Middle Eastern food, these deep-fried balls of spiced ground chickpeas can be eaten alone, as part of a mezze (appetizer platter), served in pita pockets, or wrapped in a flatbread called lafa.

Soak 200 grams chickpeas overnight. When ready to use, drain the chickpeas and blend them in a food processor. Finely chop a handful each of fresh parsley, coriander, and dill, and add them to the chickpeas, along with 3 crushed garlic cloves, 1 finely chopped spring onion, 2½ teaspoons ground cumin, and ¼ teaspoon each of ground coriander, ground chilli, cinnamon, and nutmeg. Finally, add ½ teaspoon salt and ½ teaspoon baking powder, and blend again until the whole mixture reaches a fine consistency. Add about 7 tablespoons water if the mixture is too thick. For extra spicy falafels, add finely chopped green chillies.

Form the mixture into 8 small balls. Sprinkle some sesame seeds on each falafel and fry them in olive oil until brown and crispy. Serve with hummus and harissa (hot chilli pepper paste).


M’jaddaraA flavorful lentil and rice casserole, this Lebanese, Arabic, and Indian favorite sometimes makes use of bulgur wheat instead of rice. According to Chef Phelan, it is best enjoyed spooned onto a plate and topped with fried onion rings.

Ingredients1 cup lentils, washed2 cups water, divided½ cup rice, washed1½ teaspoons salt¾ teaspoon pepper4 tablespoons olive oil1 onion, sliced into rings2 garlic cloves, crushed ¼ teaspoon curry powder 1½ teaspoons ground cumin

ProcedurePlace lentils in a cooking pan and cover with 1 cup water. Bring to a boil, then lower the heat and simmer for 15 to 20 minutes or until all of the water is absorbed. Add rice, salt, pepper, and 1 cup water. Stir gently and bring to a boil, then lower the heat and let it simmer.

Heat olive oil in a frying pan and add onion rings, garlic, curry powder, and cumin. Fry until golden. By this stage, the water in the lentil and rice mixture should be nearly absorbed. Remove the onion rings and add the hot oil to the rice and lentil mixture. Stir gently, then leave it to continue simmering until the liquid is totally absorbed. Remove from the heat and let it rest for a few minutes.

Spoon the m’jaddara onto plate and top with fried onion rings.

Palestinian ChickenAlso known as M’sakhan, it is one of the most popular and traditional Palestinian dishes. Usually prepared during the olive oil-pressing season, the chicken is marinated in a variety of spices, including sumac, which comes from the berries of Rhus shrubs and adds a sour, lemony taste to the meat.

Ingredients1 medium red onion, sliced3 tablespoons sunflower oil¼ teaspoon ground nutmeg2 teaspoons sumac (or substitute with

lemon zest and a pinch of salt)¼ teaspoon salt¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon½ teaspoon paprika¼ teaspoon ground cuminJuice of ½ lemon2 garlic cloves, chopped1 chicken breast, cut into cubes

ProcedureIn a bowl, add red onions, oil, nutmeg, sumac, salt, cinnamon, paprika, cumin, lemon juice, and garlic. Mix well.

Place chicken cubes into a baking dish and add seasoned onions. Mix well. Cover the baking dish with aluminum foil and place in a 180°C/355°F oven for 35 minutes. Take the dish out and remove the foil, then return the dish to the oven for another 5 minutes.

Served with a warmed Lebanese flatbread and pomegranate seeds.

Saffron RiceThis simple rice dish is best prepared with Basmati rice, ghee (clarified butter) and bay leaves. Saffron, the most expensive spice in the world, gives it a flavor like no other.

Ingredients5 saffron strands (or substitute ¼

teaspoon ground turmeric)2 tablespoons hot water100 grams rice100 ml water¼ teaspoon salt2 teaspoons sunflower oil

ProcedurePlace saffron and hot water in a bowl, then stir and let stand for 10 minutes.

Wash the rice thoroughly with cold water until the water runs clear. Place the rice in a pot and add 100 ml water, salt, sunflower oil, and the saffron. Stir with a wooden spoon and bring the rice to a boil. Lower the heat and let it simmer for 10 minutes. Remove the pot from the heat and let it stand for 5 minutes.


BaklavaChef Abraham Phelan’s version of this rich, sweet pastry is indulgence in a small bite. Made of layers of filo pastry filled with chopped almonds and pistachio nuts and held together with rose or orange scented syrup, it’s baked in a large tray and cut into square or diamond shapes, as is the tradition.

Ingredients10 layers of filo pastry cut into sizeMelted ghee (clarified butter) for

brushing10 grams walnuts10 grams pistachios15 grams almonds10 grams ground almonds15 grams sugar1 teaspoon ground cinnamon1 teaspoon rose water1 teaspoon gheeSyrup (see below)Chopped pistachios for decoration

Syrup Combine 1 cup sugar, 1½ cups water, 1 teaspoon rose or orange blossom water, ½ teaspoon lemon juice, and 2 cloves in a pot and bring to a boil. Let it simmer for 30 minutes.

ProcedureGrease a baking tin. Place a sheet of filo pastry in the tin and brush it all over with ghee. Add another sheet and repeat the same process until you have five sheets evenly stacked.

Add all the nuts, sugar, cinnamon, rose water, and 1 teaspoon ghee to a food processor and mix until desired consistency (either coarse or fine). Spread the nut mixture over the layers of filo pastry. Place a sheet of filo on top of the nut mixture and brush with ghee. Add another sheet and repeat the same process until you have used five sheets. Cut into desired shapes and bake in a 200°C/390°F oven for approximately 20 minutes.

Take the baklava out of the oven and pour syrup over the top, then decorate with chopped pistachios.

Cinnamon and Date CakeIngredients For the cake225 ml boiling water400 grams date paste1 teaspoon baking soda210 grams sifted flour70 grams porridge oats (or oatmeal) 85 grams brown sugar2½ teaspoons baking powder5 teaspoons ground cinnamon1 teaspoon ground ginger1 teaspoon ground nutmeg½ teaspoon salt2 eggs1 teaspoon vanilla extract75 ml vegetable oil170 ml buttermilk

For the caramel topping200 grams light brown sugar113 grams butter63 ml evaporated milk1 teaspoon vanilla extract

ProcedurePlace boiling water and date paste in a pot and bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer for 5 minutes. Add baking soda and mix well, then set aside for 20 minutes to cool down.

In one bowl, mix flour, oats, brown sugar, baking powder, cinnamon, ginger, nutmeg and salt, and set aside. In another bowl, blend eggs and vanilla extract, then add oil and buttermilk and mix well. Add the

liquid mixture to the dry ingredients and mix. Add the date mixture and combine well.

Grease and line a baking tray and pour in the cake mixture. Bake the cake in a preheated oven, starting at 220°C/425°F and reducing to 180°C/355°F after 5 minutes. Bake for an additional 25 to 30 minutes or until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean. Cool for 10 minutes before removing the baking tray.

Combine all of the caramel topping ingredients in a saucepan and cook over medium heat for approximately 5 minutes, until the sugar and butter have melted together. Cover the cake with caramel topping.

This delightful cake is a

mildly flavored sweet treat

that features two ingredients

abundant in the Middle East.

It serves as a perfect ending

to a filling meal but is also

great when paired with coffee

for an afternoon snack.


Lechona TolimenseChristmas in Colombia would not be complete without lechona, a slow-roasted suckling pig stuffed with rice, peas and herbs, which originated in the Tolima region and is traditionally served with corn flatbreads called arepas.

Ingredients1 kilogram pork meat, cut into small

pieces2 tablespoons ground nutmeg2 tablespoons minced garlic, divided

in halfSeasoning blend (see below)Salt and pepper to taste1 kilogram pork belly6 tablespoons lemon juice, divided2 tablespoons cooking oil½ cup chopped spring onions6 cups cooked rice12⁄3 cups cooked green peas1 teaspoon oregano1 teaspoon thyme1 teaspoon rosemary1 bay leaf2 cups water2 tablespoons turmeric powder2 cups pork broth6 to 8 lemon wedges for garnish

Seasoning blendMix 2 tablespoons turmeric powder, 2 tablespoons garlic powder, 1

tablespoon ground cumin, and 1½ teaspoons ground black pepper.

ProcedureIn a large bowl, combine pork meat, nutmeg, 1 tablespoon minced garlic, 1 tablespoon of seasoning blend, and salt and pepper to taste, and then marinate in the refrigerator for at least 3 hours.

Preheat oven to 180°C/355°F. Season the pork belly with salt and 3 tablespoons lemon juice, and set aside.

Heat oil in a pan and lightly fry spring onions, then set aside. In a large bowl, combine cooked rice, green peas, oregano, thyme, rosemary, bay leaf, 1 tablespoon minced garlic, 3 tablespoons of seasoning blend and water, and mix well. Cover the bottom of a shallow baking pan with aluminum foil and spread half of the rice mixture in an even layer. Layer half of the marinated pork meat on top of the rice, followed

by a layer of the remaining rice and a layer of the remaining pork. Place the seasoned pork belly on top, skin side up.

Blend turmeric powder and pork broth, and then pour into the pan. Sprinkle 1 tablespoon lemon juice over the pork belly skin, then cover the pan with aluminum foil. Place in the preheated oven and bake for 2½ hours.

Remove the pan from the oven and uncover. Sprinkle remaining 2 tablespoons lemon juice over the pork belly and return the pan, uncovered, to the oven. Continue baking until the skin is golden and crispy, and the marinated pork meat is cooked through. When done, remove the pan from the oven and slice the pork belly into 6 to 8 pieces.

To serve, spoon rice and pork stuffing onto a plate and top with a slice of pork belly and a lemon wedge.

Rabanadas A sophisticated version of French toast, rabanadas (from the Spanish word rebanada, meaning “slice”) is a traditional Christmas dessert in Portugal and its former colony Brazil, where its popularity has spawned its own special kind of bread known as pan de rabanada.

Ingredients For the rabanadas8 slices stale baguette, ¾-inch thick2 cups milk¼ cup sugar2 tablespoons honey1 cinnamon stickSalt3 eggs, whiskedOlive oil

For the port wine syrup2 cups water½ cup dry port wine1 (2-inch) cinnamon stick6 tablespoons honey

For the cinnamon-nutmeg sugarMix 1⁄3 cup sugar with 2 teaspoons cinnamon and 2 teaspoons ground nutmeg.

ProcedureArrange bread slices in a single layer along the bottom of a shallow baking dish. In a small sauce pan or pot, combine milk, cinnamon stick, sugar, honey, and a pinch of salt, and bring to a boil. Let the mixture simmer for 1 to 2 minutes, then remove from heat and set aside to cool. When cooled, remove the cinnamon stick and pour milk mixture over the sliced bread. Let them soak for 20 to 30 minutes until most of the liquid is absorbed.

Prepare the port wine syrup by combining water, port wine, cinnamon stick, and honey in a heavy sauce pan over medium heat. Bring to a slow boil, then reduce the heat and continue to simmer for 10 minutes or

until syrup thickens and is reduced by half. Remove from the stove and set aside to cool down to room temperature before serving.

Pour olive oil into a skillet or frying pan until about an inch deep and heat until it sizzles when a piece of bread is dipped in the oil. Carefully dip both sides of the milk-soaked bread in whisked eggs and fry in the heated oil until both sides are golden brown. Transfer fried rabanada to a plate lined with paper towels to soak up excess oil. Meanwhile, mix together sugar, cinnamon, and nutmeg, and generously sprinkle over each rabanada. Serve with port wine syrup on the side.

A Sweet and Savory Holiday in South America

Thanks to their Spanish and Portuguese colonial histories, the countries of South America celebrate the Christmas season with a delicious holiday buffet seasoned with spices—from cinnamon to cumin—that are shared with European, Middle Eastern, and Asian cuisines.


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Happiness in WellnessBy Maan D’Asis Pamaran

Yoga and Barre3 instructor Tami Ledesma breathes—and eats—easy with a positive flow of energy

Things were different before Tami Ledesma found her way to yoga. “I was having major stomach problems. At that time, I was taking about five different medicines for it, but they weren’t exactly curing me, so I decided to take another route to healing.” She began with nutrition counseling and Yin Yoga therapy sessions at the Alternative Medicine department at St. Luke’s. “Later on, feeling more confident and aware of my body, I began a more dynamic practice at Urban Ashram with their Hatha and Vinyasa classes,” she shares.

“I’m not exaggerating when I say it changed the course of my life,” Tami muses thoughtfully. “I began to see health and wellness from a more holistic point of view. Rather than see my body as a mix of problem areas that needed to be fixed, I learned to befriend my body as a whole and give it the proper nourishment and nurturing it needs to be healthy, not just in terms of what I eat and how I exercise, but in the thoughts I consume and the actions I do.”

Inner strength“I used to think my life was limited by my stomach problems, I used to believe I was weak. But eating well and practicing yoga have made me supple and strong, and that makes me brave,” she explains. That strength has given her the freedom to travel, she says. “I’ve always loved taking trips with my family, but yoga has made me more adventurous, more willing to try and learn new things.”

She counts Bali, Hawaii, and Florence as her favorite places in the world. “Bali is a yogi’s, surfer’s, and artist’s dream! It’s a magical mix of art and tradition, in harmony with new and foreign influences, that makes it so vibrant.”

In Hawaii, there’s a term—hanai—which means “taking in as family,” which Tami values. “In my many trips there, I’ve always been

taken in as family. The culture is so loving, so embracing, so welcoming.”

Florence, however, is her happy place. “It’s where I go when I’m sad, where the feeling of a savasana [yoga relaxation pose] at the end of a class takes me. I took a short art course during the beautiful season where summer turns into fall, and it was there where I experienced il dolce far niente—the sweetness of doing nothing. I had nothing to worry about and everything to be grateful for.”

Living healthy and loving yourselfBack home in the Philippines, yoga helps her to deal with daily stresses. “Just getting to the studio on time, sitting helpless in traffic, stresses me out. But when I get [there], when I sit on my mat, when I begin my first few breaths, I can let go. [My worries and anxieties] will still be there later on, but they can wait another hour.”

She encourages others to get into the lifestyle and, for those who are just starting out on their own wellness journey, she advises, “When you are starting out, it’s the best time for you to explore your body, with all its limits and capabilities, and try to love it as it is and for what it can become. Listen deeply to what your body needs from you or can give you in every pose and transition. Give yourself the time to love yourself just as you are. Everything else will flow.”

Food for thoughts“I definitely try to eat healthy by eating at the right times, and eating whole foods. Some important questions to ask are, ‘Can I imagine my food alive? How far has it been processed before getting to my plate?’ I’m no vegetarian, but I try not to eat as much red meat as I used to,” she smiles. “I can feel it in my body, and even in my mind and heart, when I’ve been eating things that aren’t very healthy. I feel slow in spirit and heavy-hearted. That being said, I won’t deny myself the comfort of chocolate cake or chorizo every once in a while.”

A perfect meal, she says, would be a balanced one. “It would be full of fresh and local ingredients, but with global influences and flavors. Caprese [tomato, mozzarella and basil salad] is my favorite amuse-bouche, substituting mozzarella with kesong puti. Lately, my boyfriend and I have been mixing Middle Eastern cooking with local ingredients.” A favorite is Turkish lahmacun, which she loosely describes as a deliciously spiced kebab baked on pita bread and topped with pako and red onions, and a squeeze of lemon or calamansi.

Tami shares that going to the market is a new favorite activity. “Marketplace by Rustan’s in Rockwell is our go-to. We recently had the

The Spices of LifeThrough spice routes linking the ancient civilizations of Europe, Africa, and Asia, a variety of spices found their way into the culinary traditions of the Middle East and, eventually, Latin America. From cinnamon and cumin to saffron and turmeric, they add zesty flavors, appetizing aromas, and beautiful color to many global dishes. And as Tami Ledesma has discovered, mixing these essential Middle Eastern seasonings with fresh and local ingredients yields food that is as healthful as it is flavorful.

� According to Pliny the Elder, 12 ounces of cinnamon cost the equivalent of 10 months’ wages in ancient Rome. Today, it is often associated with baked goods and other treats, and is one of the most important spices in Mexican cuisine. Some studies, though not conclusive, indicate that cinnamon may help lower blood sugar in diabetics, reduce inflammation, and have anti-oxidant and anti-bacterial effects.

� The earthy taste of cumin, used either whole or ground, is characteristic of the masalas

of India, but it is also popular in Brazilian and Burmese cookery and is an everyday seasoning on Moroccan tables. In traditional medicine, cumin has been used for digestive health and may have anti-carcinogenic properties.

� Harvested from a species of crocus flower, saffron has been one of the most treasured and expensive spices for millennia. These delicate threads impart a subtle flavor and sunny hue, particularly in global rice dishes like paellas, risottos, and biryanis. The list of saffron’s health benefits deserves an article of its own, but they include treating asthma and insomnia; and alleviating coughs, menstrual cramps, and flatulence.

� The mildly peppery flavor of turmeric is often used to enhance other ingredients rather than as a distinctive taste on its own. Like saffron, turmeric has been used for over 4,500 years not only as a food ingredient, but also as a clothing dye and in traditional medicine. Today, it is touted as a “super-food” for its anti-inflammatory, anti-oxidant, and anti-carcinogenic properties, supported by recent research studies.

pleasure of visiting early and catching a crab that was trying to run away! The fruits and vegetables are fresh, the coconuts are young, and the seafood is sometimes still alive. It’s open early on weekends, so after the [farmers’] market, we go there to round up missing ingredients.”

Happy meals Christmas is often a time to overindulge, especially in a culture where food means family and friendship. Instead of advising against holiday treats, Tami reassures, “Happiness is a

key component of wellness. Nourish your spirit and eat your favorite foods, but make time to move your body, too. Even if you can’t go to the studio or gym, you can always take a walk after eating and mingle with everyone, or dance a little longer and get your circulation going.”

Digestion is just as important as ingestion, she quips. “We eat because we love food and company. We exercise because we love our bodies. If you gain a little weight over the holidays, so what? It doesn’t mean that you didn’t love your body. You nourished it with food; you can nurture it with exercise, too.” sR


The Rustan’s Shopper

D OÑA SOL

3/4 oz Manille ® Liqueur de Dalandan3/4 Whisky, 3/4 sweet vermouth

and 3/4 oz orange juice

Add ingredients into a shaker with ice

Strain into a martini glass

by enzo l im

DALANGRITA3/4 oz Manille ® Liqueur de Dalandan

1 1/2 oz San Juan Lambanog1/2 oz lime juice, 1/2 oz simple syrup

and salt

Rim a rock glass with salt

Add ingredients into a shaker and shake vigorously

Empty contents into the glass

SINTURIS SMASH

1 1/2 oz Manille ® Liqueur de Dalandan1/2 oz Empire ® London Dry Gin

3 lemon wedges and 5-8 mint leaves

Muddle the lemon wedgeswith mint leaves in a shaker

Add Manille® Liqueur de Dalandan and Empire London Dry Gin®

and shake with ice.Pour contents into a rock glass.

by enzo l im

Tinto Inverno SangriasThe essential elements of a classic sangria are simple: red wine and chunks of fresh fruit punched up with brandy or orange liqueur, and sweetened with fruit juice or simple syrup. This holiday, winterize the beloved summer beverage by infusing it with warm spices like cardamom and cinnamon that evoke Christmas’ origins in the Holy Land, or the flavor of seasonal fruits such as pears and pomegranates. For a taste of the Philippines, spike the traditional red wine with Manille Liqueur de Dalandan. While others dream of a white Christmas, turn your celebration into a vibrant shade of red with these special holiday sangrias.

Sangria con Dalandan

Ingredients2 apples cut into chunks 2 dalandan or navel oranges, unpeeled

and cut into chunks1 (750ml) bottle red wine½ cup brandy¼ cup Manille Liqueur de DalandanSugar to taste1 to 2 cups sparkling pomegranate juice

ProcedureCombine all ingredients, except pomegranate juice, in a large pitcher and mix well. Chill for several hours or ideally overnight. To serve, pour sangria over ice in goblets or wine glasses up to one-third full and top with sparkling pomegranate juice.

Sangria Especiada

For the spiced simple syrup2 whole star anise2 cinnamon sticks, broken into pieces1 cardamom pod, cracked1 chunk peeled fresh ginger1 cup brown sugar or muscovado 1 cup water

For the sangria1 (750ml) bottle red wine½ cup brandy¼ cup orange liqueur1⁄3 cup spiced simple syrup 2 pears cut into chunks2 oranges, unpeeled and cut into chunks1 to 2 cups sparkling water

ProcedureTo make the simple syrup, place star anise, cinnamon, and cardamom in a saucepan set over medium heat. Toast the spices until fragrant—about 3 minutes. Add ginger, brown sugar and water, and mix well. Simmer while stirring occasionally until the sugar is completely dissolved. Turn off the heat and let the syrup steep for an hour before straining out the spices. Store in a jar or bottle in the refrigerator for up to 2 weeks.

To blend the sangria, combine all ingredients, except sparkling water, in a large pitcher and stir well. Chill for several hours or ideally overnight. To serve, pour sangria over ice in goblets or wine glasses up to one-third full and top with sparkling water. Add more simple syrup if desired.

Finding the perfect red wine for sangriaAs the main ingredient in sangria, the red wine you choose may determine if it packs a punch or falls flat. In general, medium-bodied, dry and fruity wines are your best bet, but for a bit more guidance, here are a few suggestions:

� Look for varietals from Spain’s Rioja region, such as Tempranillo and Garnacha;

� Try the soft fruitiness of a Merlot from Chile or a slightly more intense Malbec from Argentina;

� Feel free to stray from Spanish viticulture and check out medium-bodied wines from other countries like California Zinfandel, Italian Sangiovese, Australian Shiraz, or a French Grenache.

These varietals and more are available in the wine department at Rustan’s Supermarkets and Marketplace by Rustan’s.

In the Holiday SpiritAdd some Christmas cheer to your holiday gathering with cocktails

from the Philippines’ oldest distillery

Dalangrita

Salt¾ oz Manille Liqueur de Dalandan1½ oz lambanog½ oz lime juice½ oz simple syrup

Rim a rocks glass with salt. Combine remaining ingredients in a cocktail shaker and shake vigorously. Pour into the glass and serve.

Sinturis SmashBy Enzo Lim

3 lemon wedges5–8 mint leaves

1½ oz Manille Liqueur de Dalandan½ oz dry gin

Muddle the lemon wedges with mint leaves in a shaker. Add the Manille Liqueur

de Dalandan and dry gin, and shake with ice. Pour contents into a rock glass.

Doña SolBy Enzo Lim

¾ oz Manille Liqueur de Dalandan¾ oz whisky¾ oz sweet vermouth¾ oz orange juice

Combine all ingredients in a cocktail shaker with ice and strain into a Martini glass. Garnish with a twist of lime.

After more than 160 years in the wine and liquor industry, Destileria Limtuaco & Co., Inc., knows a thing or two about spirits: they have created some of the country’s most popular brands of rum, tequila, vodka, brandy, and gin.

Now, on the heels of the successful launch in early 2014 of Manille Liqueur de Calamansi—the first in a new line of all-natural fruit liqueurs—the Philippines’ oldest distillery follows up with Manille Liqueur de Dalandan,

made from the essential oils of the zesty native orange.

While it can be enjoyed as a straight shot, Manille Liqueur de Dalandan also complements other spirits, lending a subtly sweet citrus flavor to favorite cocktails. In the hands of Enzo Lim, mixologist and co-owner of New York City’s popular Filipino restaurants Maharlika and Jeepney, the delicious quality and versatility of Destileria Limtuaco’s newest liqueur truly shine.

Mixologist Enzo Lim prepares an original cocktail.

sansRival 25

Grapevine

24 December 2015

Grapevine

A Gift That Keeps GivingIn the spirit of the holiday season, Rustan’s Supermarkets is marking its 45th anniversary with a commemorative wine, whose purchase will provide for a child and his or her family during this special time of year.

Make a wonderful addition to your Christmas table with a bottle of Baron

Philippe de Rothschild Mouton Cadet from Bordeaux, France, specially packed for Rustan’s Supermarkets in an anniversary edition wooden box. With each bottle, you can take part in a meaningful opportunity to fully realize the spirit of giving to those who are truly in need.

Every purchase of Baron

Philippe de Rothschild Mouton Cadet Bordeaux provides a basket of food for one child’s family through MovEd (Molding Optimism and Values through Education), an organization that provides quality pre-school education to more than 400 children in underserved communities across Metro Manila and Bicol. MovEd also offers supplementary workshops and nutritional programs to promote valuable childhood developmental care.

Give this gift for your loved ones to make their Christmas, as well as another family’s Christmas, even more special. This unique initiative is available to shoppers at all Rustan’s Supermarket and Marketplace by Rustan’s stores until the end of December.

Tasting NotesBaron Philippe de Rothschild Mouton Cadet displays a deep red color with a slightly purple tint. Scents of blackberry and black currant develop into fragrances of coffee and vanilla upon airing. At first taste, it is intensely aromatic with elegant tannins, while the mid-palate boasts of fruity berry flavors, and the lasting note reveals hints of coconut and coffee with a touch of smokiness.

61,545

It’s time for a new Christmas tradition—now you can make your own cheese, tofu, and butter with the whole family.

1. Tofu Making Kit 61,850

2. Cheese Making Refill Boxes 6750

3. Mozzarella Cheese Making Kit 61,650

4. Chevre Cheese Making Kit 61,650

5. Ricotta And Cottage Cheese Kit 61,650

6. Homemade Butter Kit 61,650

Roaring Brook Dairy, all-American makers of gourmet kits for cooks and non-cooks alike, are available exclusively at Rustan’s Supermarkets and Marketplace by Rustan’s.

26 December 2015

Grapevine

Sweet SensationsRustan’s Supermarkets and Marketplace by Rustan’s invite you to celebrate the joys of Christmas with exquisite cakes, pastries and novelty confections that will leave you caroling for more. Call 869 7525 to order.

1. Pistachio Chocolate Tart 6799 pc

2. Brownies With Fondant 4’s 699 box

3. Gingerbread Man 639 pc

4. Salted Caramel Cake 6650 pc

5. Christmas Sugar Cookies 649 pc

6. Yule Log Cake 61,250 pc

Prices are subject to change without prior notice. Product availability may vary per store. Comes in cake boxes. Three to five days lead time.

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1. Traditional Loaf Fruitcake 6330

2. Queso de Bola Cheesecake 6799 pc

3. Raspberry Walnut Torte 6650 pc

4. Richly Topped Fruitcake 6485 pc

5. Food for the Gods 6’s 6265 box

Prices are subject to change without prior notice. Product availability may vary per store. Comes in cake boxes. Three to five days lead time.

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Ige RamosBook Designer • Food Writer • Editorial Design Instructor • Cook • Traveller

15B Boardwalk, Bay Gardens, Metropolitan Park, Roxas Blvd., Pasay City, Philippines 1300

+63 0917 586 1963 | [email protected] | @bookchef | @igrams

[Editor-in Chief, Rustan’s Supermarket SansRival Magalogue]

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Mr. Ige Ramos - Book Design for Food: From Plate to Print

Food

Transcript of Mr. Ige Ramos - Book Design for Food: From Plate to Print