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Marco Romelli

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THE AUTHOR

Marco Romelli, native of Lombardy in Northern Italy, has been a mountaineer for twenty years, concen-trating mainly on the Mont Blanc massif. Illustrator of mountaineering guidebooks and magazines, his passion for the mountains does not stop at climbing, which runs alongside drawing and photography in the constant search for a complete aesthetic experience.

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS

Thanks go to Alpine Guide Patrick Gabarrou for the interest he has shown in this new book.Thanks to Alpine Guide Raymond Angéloz (manager of the Cabane d’Orny), Alpine Guide Armando Chanoine (manager of the Monzino hut) and Alpine Guide Hervé Thivierge (www.grimpailler.com) for invaluable infor-mation on pre-existing itineraries and new routes. A special thank you to Elise Longin for her work and support throughout the writing of this guidebook, from repetitions of routes to historical research.Thanks also to Lucie Havelkova for indispensable “logistical support”, Alpine Guide Alessio Conz (www.lagoraiavventura.it) and Valentino Cividini for numer-ous photos, Enrico Mazzoleni for having given the author the “bug” of passion for the magical world of Mont Blanc. Thanks to all the friends who have posed for photos, submitted images and accompanied the author pa-tiently on many repetitions and photography recces which were essential to the realization of this work.

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5

Opening a book about Mont Blanc is always a moving experience for me, a mountain which I’ve dreamed of so much and which has given me so many dreams in return. First of all, I remember the moment when I discovered these mountains, at fourteen years old, thanks to Gaston Rebuffat’s beautifully entitled book, “Mont Blanc, jardin féérique”*. I am immensely grateful to Rébuffat, who through this book revealed to me a true high-altitude treasure, something I’d only dreamed of, confusedly and ardently, coming from a flat region with no mountains. And then there are numerous memories of hours and hours spent there, in the heart of these mountains, which little by little have become engraved in my memory. As well as these, though, are the precious faces of so many companions, illumi-nated by the light and shade of the mountains. Faces alight with effort or enthusiasm, with fatigue or joy, with worry or relief, with wonder or confusion...

Let this book, so clearly the product of a true lifetime passion, reveal to its readers those great places where dreams are made, along the main roads or secret corners of this inexhaustible “enchanted garden”. Let it guide you in the realisation of those dreams, accomplished and wholly shared in that unique relationship between climbers.

Patrick Gabarrou

* Jardin féérique: enchanted garden

First Edition: June 2012ISBN: 978-88-97299-21-9

Idea Montagna Editoria e AlpinismoVia Guido Rossa, 17 - 35016 Piazzola sul Brenta PD - ItalyTel. +39 049 9601797info@ideamontagna.it - www.ideamontagna.it

General Coordination: Francesco CappellariGraphic Design: Rossella Benetollo - Officina Creativa - PadovaLayout, image processing, maps: Irene CappellariIllustrations/sketches: Marco RomelliEnglish translation: Lynne HemptonPrinted by: Litocenter Srl per conto di Idea Montagna Editoria e AlpinismoCover Photo: Cosmiques Arête (Photo: Marco Romelli)

All rights reserved. Reproduction, including partial reprodution of text, drawings and photographs prohibited.

Warnings: Rock climbing is a potentially fatal activity. The present guide is intended only for experienced rock climbers who are aware of the risks involved.This guide was compiled with the utmost care but there is no guarantee against the possibility of errors or omissions. The use of the information contained herrein is at the user’s own risk. The author and the publisher do not accept any responsability for any misadventure or any other consequences of its use.

O Preface

PHOTOGRAPHSAll the photos were taken by the author, apart from images of huts and those specified below:Raymond Angéloz pag. 20 e 31 in basso; Carlo Barbolini pag.239; Davide Barcella pag. 225; Emer Bavelloni pag. 57 in alto; Davide Bordet pag. 116 in basso; Armando Chanoine pag. 215; Valentino Cividini pag. 50, 82, 92, 171 (alto), 177, 226, 235, 240, 263; Alessio Conz pag. 227, 228 e 229 in alto; Gian Paolo De Nicolò pag. 210 (alto), 214; Fabio Di Fede pag. 44 in basso; Elise Longin pag. 35 in basso, 234, 283; Enrico Mazzoleni pag. 128, 161 (alto), 166, 168, 229 (basso), 238 (basso); Francesco Melchiori pag. 254; Jeffrey Moskowitz pag. 99; Brendan O’Sullivan pag. 133 (basso); Claude Quenot pag. 112.

Idea Montagna has collaborated closely with ADMO (Associa-tion for Bone Marrow Donation) - in the Climb for Life project, which aims to raise awareness about stem cell transplants (and the lives which this process can save) in the mountain-eering community.www.admo.it - www.climbforlife.it

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031 � Pointe Lachenal - Pointe Lachenal Traverse 150032 � Triangle du Tacul - Contamine-Négri 152033 � Triangle du Tacul - Contamine-Grisolle 154034 � Triangle du Tacul - Contamine-Mazeaud 156035 � Triangle du Tacul - Goulotte Chéré 158036 � Mont Blanc du Tacul - Normal Route 160037 � Mont Maudit - Tour of the East Ridge 162038 � Monte Bianco - Three monts Traverse 164

SEVEN � ST. GERVAIS - LES CONTAMINES 169039 � Monte Bianco - Normal Route via the Aiguille du Gouter and the Bosses Ridge 176040 � Aiguille de Bionnassay - Ridge Traverse 179041 � Dômes de Miage - Mettrier Ridge to the East Dome 183042 ��Dômes de Miage - Traverse from East to West 186043 � Aiguille Nord de Trélatête - Normal Route of the NNW Face 189

EIGHT � VAL VENY - SEIGNE 191044 � Aiguille des Glaciers - Normal Route 198045 � Dôme de Neige des Glaciers - Lanchettes Ridge 201046 � Petit Mont Blanc - Normal Route 204047 � Aiguille Est di Trélatête - East Ridge 206048 � Aiguille du Châtelet - Idroelettrica or Hydrotecnique 209049 � Aiguille Croux - Ottoz Route on the SE Face 211050 � Aiguille Croux - Cheney Route via the S Ridge 215

NINE � POINTE HELBRONNER - COL DU GÈANT 219051 � Dent du Géant - Normal Route on the SW Face 224052 � Aiguille de Rochefort - Normal Route via the Rochefort Ridge 227053 � Aiguilles d’Entrèves - SW-NE Traverse 230054 � Tour Ronde - Normal Route via the SE Ridge 233055 � Tour Ronde - North Face 237056 � Tour Ronde - Gervasutti Couloir 239057 � Roi de Siam - Le Lifting du Roi 242058 � Pyramide du Tacul - East Ridge or “Ottoz Route” 245

TEN � VAL FERRET 249059 � Parete dei Titani - Génépi 1-2 253060 � Monts Rouges de Triolet - Le Chamois Volant (3289m summit) 255061 � Monts Rouges de Triolet - La Bérésina (3327m summit) 259062 ��Mont Dolent - Normal Route 262

ELEVEN � AIGUILLES ROUGES 265063 � Le Brévent - La Frison-Roche 270064 � Aiguille de Charlanon - Arête du Doigt 273065 � Aiguille de l’Index - Perroux Route-SE Ridge Combination 277066 � Pointe Gaspard - Gaspard Premier 281067 � Aiguilles Crochues - South Ridge to South Summit (Ravanel Route) 283

� PREFACE 5� INTRODUCTION 6� GEOGRAPHICAL SITUATION 10� TECHNICAL INFORMATION 12� USEFUL CONTACTS 18

ONE � ORNY - TRIENT 19001 � Gendarme d’Orny - Papa Paye Route 24002 � Aiguille de la Cabane - Voie du Bon Accueil 28003 � Aiguille d’Orny - La Moquette 32004 � Aiguilles Dorées - Copt Couloir 36005 � Aiguille Sans Nom - S Arête and half traverse of the Aiguilles to the E 41006 � Tête Blanche - N Face 46

TWO � TOUR BASIN 49007 � Aiguille du Tour - Normal Route to the S Peak 54008 � Aiguille du Tour - Couloir de la Table 58009 � Aiguille du Chardonnet - Forbes Arête 60010 � Aiguille du Chardonnet - Éperon Migot 65

THREE � ARGENTIÈRE BASIN 69011 � Petite Aiguille Verte - Normal Route 74012 � Petite Aiguille Verte - Chevalier Couloir 76013 � Aiguille de l’Argentière - Normal Route via the Milieu Glacier 79014 � Aiguille de l’Argentière - Couloir en Y 82015 � Aiguille du Refuge - Le gateau de Riz 85016 � Aiguille du Génépi - South Arête 88

FOUR � MER DE GLACE 91017 � Lower Envers Slabs - Pilier des Rhodo-Dindons 96018 � Lower Envers Slabs - Voie Georges 96019 � Lower Envers Slabs - Vingt Mille Lieues Sous la Neige 96020 � Aiguille du Moine - South Arête 100021 � Aiguille du Moine - Normal Route 104022 � Aiguille Verte - Normal Route via the Whymper Couloir 107

FIVE � AIGUILLES DE CHAMONIX 111023 � Aiguille de l’M - NNE Arête 115024 � Lames Fontaine - Voie Abert 119025 � Aiguille du Peigne - Les Lépidoptères 123026 � Aiguille du Peigne - Arête des Papillons 127027 � Aiguille du Peigne - Éperon des Minettes 130

SIX � AIGUILLE DU MIDI 135028 � Aiguille du Midi - Cosmiques Arê te 141029 � Aiguille du Midi - Cosmiques Spur 144030 � Aiguille du Plan - Midi-Plan Ridge 147

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Albert 1er

Aiguille du Tour

Signal Reilly

Glacier du Tour

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slope descending from the col. From the top of the cable car, take the path which climbs right over steep grassy slopes to the path coming from the Col de Balme, without having to reach the col itself (4h to the hut). There is also a path which climbs along the steep moraine on the right bank of the Tour valley, joining the other path just before the hut (signs). This route is direct but arduous, particularly in descent.

The Tour basin is not ideal for combining routes. The iti-neraries, largely glacial, are very different in terms of difficulty: whilst the Aiguille du Tour leaves you ready for more, those returning from a route on the Chardonnet will normally want a rest. In this case, best to keep this area for multiple visits: if you have a few days here, re-laxing on the rock routes of the Aiguilles Rouges is a good way to end the holiday.One interesting option of linking lower grade routes is to climb a route on the Aiguille du Tour, traverse to the Trient refuge, climb the N side of Tête Blanche the following day and then return directly to the Albert 1er hut (see route no. 006).

��� O Tour Basin

The vast plateau of the Glacier du Tour is the last of a series of glaciers which lie along the Chamonix valley. The Trient basin, Swiss territory, is within striking distance and easily accessed in traverse. At its S and N borders, two imposing peaks rise up, two opposing poles of glacier climbing: the Aiguille du Tour, awash with those taking their first few steps in crampons, and the Aiguille du Chardonnet, which demands experience both in ascent and descent.

ACCESSThe start point is the village of Tour, which can be rea-ched from Chamonix by car by heading towards the Col des Montets. Turn right after the village of Argentière, just before the hairpins which lead to the col. Continue until the end of the road to the chairlift car park. In the summer, a cable car and a chairlift lead up towards Col de Balme (2204m), from here a path traverses at length until the Albert Ier hut, near to the glacier du Tour. In autumn, before the heavy snowfalls, the basin can still be accessed and the routes are often in condition. When the lifts are closed, the walk-in is a couple of hours longer. In the spring, the Tour basin is accessed by ski, from the Argentière glacier, crossing the Col du Passon. The village of Tour can also be reached by train from Chamonix. About 15 mins from the train station to the cable car.

LE TOUR-CHARAMILLON-COL DE BALME CABLE CARwebsite: www.compagniedumontblanc.fr

Suggested basesALBERT 1er HUT, 2702 mTel. 0033 (0)4 50 54 06 20Places: 137 bedsOpening period: open in summer, winter refuge during closed periods. (30 beds)

Situated in the Tour basin, the Albert 1er hut is the only support base for this area. During summer weekends, it is not uncommon to find it completely booked up; should this be the case, as soon as it’s dark, between the boulders around the building you can see the torches of many improvised bivvies (lots of camping spots). The hut is accessed from the Col de Balme along an excellent path, well marked and equip-ped in part with a handrail (2h). When the lifts are closed, leave the vil-lage of Tour on foot, initially following a path which cuts across the ski

����n � O Mont Blanc - classic & plaisir

Hut

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Aiguille du Tour

Aiguille Purtscheller

Col sup. du Tour

Col du Tour

Tête Blanche

Aiguille du Chardonnet

AIG. DU COL DU TOURCol Du Tour

Col sup. du Tour

AIG. PURTSCHELLER

3287

3478

3281TÊTE BLANCHE

3429

PETITE FOURCHE3513

AIG. DE LA FENÊTRE

3412

GRANDE FOURCHE3610

Fenêtre du Tour

G l a c i e r d e S a l e i n a

3336AIG. FORBES3489

Fenêtre sup. du Tour

Glacier de l'Épaule

Col du Passon

3456

AIG. DU PASSON3383

AIGUILLE ADAMS REILLY3506

BEC ROUGE SUP.3050

COL DU CHARDONNET3323le Trident

les Capucins3570

AIG. DU CHARDONNET3824

AIG. D’ARGENTIÈRE3900

TÊTE BISELX3509

AIG. DU TOUR3544

2883

AIG. DU PISSOIR3441

AIG. DU MIDIDES GRANDS3302

AIG. DU GÉNÉPI3265

POINTES DES GRANDS3101

2879

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Signal Reilly

Croix de Berons

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AIGUILLE DU TOURViewed from the Albert 1er hut, the Aiguille du Tour is a slender rocky two-pointed pyramid: the N point is 3544m high and the S 3542m. The latter, which hangs directly over the glacier du Tour, is the more frequented of the two. Routes: Normal Route p. 54

Couloir de La Table p. 58

AIGUILLE DU CHARDONNETThe Aiguille du Chardonnet is an isolated mountain, with an elegant and complex profile. Located on the far SE limits of the glacier du Tour, perspectives are skewed: only after a long walk-in do its true dimensions become apparent. The ascent routes, never dull, and the exposed and dangerous des-cent make this peak the ‘little sister’ of Aiguille Verte, which overlooks it from the nearby upper part of the Argentière glacier. Routes: Forbes Arête p. 60

Éperon Migot p. 65

��� O Tour Basin����n � O Mont Blanc - classic & plaisir

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AiguillePurtscheller

Aiguille du Tour

Glacier du Tour

Glacier du TrientCol sup. du

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7 7a

Aiguille S du Tour

Aiguille N du Tour

7 7a

Aiguille S du Tour

Aiguille N du Tour

Easy and enjoyable route: The pitches are varied (glacier traverse, surmounting a col, final wall and ridge), and the superb panoramas are ever-chang-ing. It’s impossible even for the most experienced mountaineer to get bored, should they choose this route to introduce their friends to glacier travel.

GEAREquipment for glacier travel. A couple of long threads and some ice screws can prove useful in dry seasons, when the slope underneath the summit is formed of black ice.

APPROACHFrom the Albert 1er hut, follow the cairned path in a rising traverse towards the glacier. This is reached in correspondence with the second-ary glacial snout which descends from the Fenêtre du Pissoir (20mins).

AIGUILLE DU TOUR 3544 mNormal Route to the S Peak

• FIRST ASCENT: C.G. Heathcote with M. Andermatten, 18 August 1864

• GRADE: F, I-II

• HEIGHT GAIN: 800 m

• SUPPORT BASES: Albert 1er hut

• FEATURES: Glacier traverse, easy rocky ridge

��� O Tour Basin����n � O Mont Blanc - classic & plaisir

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with the path coming from the Cabane du Trient). From here, the two rocky pinnacles of the Aiguille du Tour are visible and within reach. Continue, aiming for the left (S) peak. Reach the short but steep slope which descends from the summit, cross the bergschrund and move left to reach the rocks. Follow ledges to the right, to a small col on the N ridge. Follow the ridge over boulders, scratched by thousands of cram-pon points, until the summit (3h from the hut).

DESCENTSame route.

IDEAL CONDITIONSExtremely busy route from the start of summer to autumn. At the end of the season or during very warm periods, the final slopes transform into black ice and there is a risk of rockfall from above. In autumn, af-ter the first snowfalls, the glacier traverse is very delicate (hidden and fragile ice bridges).

OTHER OPTIONS• 7a from the base of the two small E faces of the Aiguille du Tour, it is possible to climb the N peak over slightly more difficult rock sections. (see photo page 54).• 7b the N face of Tête Blanche is not far from the Col Superieur du Tour (20mins of slightly descending traverse along the Plateau du Tri-ent).

ROUTEThe first part of the route follows the right bank of the glacier du Tour to reach and overcome the Col Superieur du Tour, then leads across the upper part of the Plateau du Trient. From here, continue until the small E faces of the two peaks and climb over rocks to the summit. From the Albert Ier hut, once at the glacier du Tour, traverse aiming towards the Signal Reilly (2883m), a small rocky rise underneath the SW ridge of the Ai-guille du Tour. Go beyond this (possible to go below or above), to reach the upper slopes. Climb obliquely right, avoiding a treacherous section (large cre-vasses). Continue until the rocky ridge to the left of Col Sup. du Tour. Go around its WSW spur to enter into the narrow secondary valley which descends from the Col Superieur du Tour, on ever-steepening slopes. A few metres on rock lead to the col. Descend easily from the other side onto the Plateau du Trient and continue ascending, bordering the red rocks of the sharp Aiguille Purtscheller (usual meeting point

Previous page, above: on the Glacier du Trient, towards the N and S peaks of the Aiguille du TourPrevious page, below: N SummitAbove: on the summitBelow: the plateau of the Glacier du Tour

��� O Tour Basin����n � O Mont Blanc - classic & plaisir