Mill Training Report (Viyellatex), Dyeing - Rafsan

8/11/2019 Mill Training Report (Viyellatex), Dyeing - Rafsan

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Acknowledgements

First of all, our gratefulness goes to Almighty Allah who gave us strength and ability to complete

the industrial training and prepare this report; may your name be exalted, honored & glorified.

We are highly delighted to express our regards & gratitude to honorable Vice-Chancellor Prof.

Dr. Nitai Chandra Sutradhar & Prof. Dr. Md. Zulhash Uddin; Dean, Faculty of Textile

Chemical Processing Engineering & Applied Science, for providing us the opportunity to

complete our industrial attachment with Viyellatex Group.

Our heartiest gratitude to our supervising teacher, Mrs. Sharfun Nahar Arju; Head,

Department of Wet Processing Engineering to whom we are extremely indebted for her

tremendous support and guidance throughout our training period, without her help it would not

have been possible to complete the training successfully.

We also take the opportunity to express our sincere thanks to the management, administration

& personnel of Viyellatex Groupfor giving us permission to complete our training period in

this industry.

We are really grateful to our industrial coordinatorEngr. Dewan Mahbub Kamran, Executive

Dyeing, Viyellatex Group for his encouragement, inspiration, support, supervision, special care

& co-operation during training period.

We would also like to thank specially Engr. Faridul Hasan,Executive Dyeing and also Engr.

Mr. Mahmud, Engr. Mr. Arif, Engr. Mr. Faisal, Engr. Mr. Fayez for their CordialCooperation during the intern period.

Above all, we would like to acknowledge our deep debt to all teachers of our university &

particularly of Wet Processing Department for their kind inspiration & help, which remain as the

backdrop of all our efforts.


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Table of Contents

S.N. Contents Page No.

1 Introduction 3

2 Project Description 4

3 Manpower Management 11

4 Knitting Section 16

5 Batch Section 27

6 Dyeing Section 30

7 Raw Materials 56

8 Finishing 60

9 Laboratory 75

10 Garments Section 86

11 Printing Section 90

12 Embroidery Section 95

13 Washing Section 96

14 Maintenance 10115 Utilities 108

16 Effluent Treatment Plant 114

17 Inventory Control 118

18 Costing 120

19 Marketing 124

20 Recommendations 127

21 Conclusion 128


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Introduction

By means of practical knowledge it is possible to apply the theoretical knowledge in the

practical field. For any technical education practical experience is almost equally important inassociation with the theoretical knowledge.

The industrial attachment is the process which builds understanding skill and attitude of the

performer, which improves his/her knowledge in boosting productivity and services. Academic

education provides us vast theoretical knowledge as well as more practical attachment, despite

all these industrial attachment help us to be familiar with the technical support of modern

machinery, skill ness about various operation stages.

It also provides us sufficient practical knowledge about production management, Productivity

evaluation, work study, efficiency, industrial management, production planning & control,

production cost analysis, inventory management, purchasing, utility & maintenance ofmachinery and their operation techniques etc. The above mentioned cannot be achieved

successfully by means of theoretical knowledge only. This is why it should be accomplished with

practical knowledge in which it is based on industrial attachment makes us reliable to be

accustomed with the industrial atmosphere & improve courage & inspiration to take self-

responsibility.

At Viyellatex Limited, cutting-edge technologies merge seamlessly with human ingenuity and

deep seat recommitment to ensure excellence in every stage and area of their activities. From

fiber to fabric, Viyellatex Limited is truly integrated undertaking. The Viyellatex Limited has the

capability to offer a complete product range for the export textile markets. The goal ofViyellatex Limited is to become the preferred partner for sourcing high quality fabrics and

clothing from Bangladesh with highly advanced technology and an emphasis on developing local

human resources.


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Project description


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Project Description Company Name:Viyellatex group ltd.

Status:Private Ltd. Company

Type:100% Export oriented composite knit Dyeing Industry.

Sponsor: Mr. Rezaul Hasnat.

Annual Production Capacity for dyeing:75000tons

Product Mix: 100% cotton 100% polyester

a) Spunb) Filament

Nylon Chief Value Cotton (CVC) Polyester Cotton blend

Gray mlange (15% Viscose 85% cotton10% Viscose 90% cotton30% Viscose 70% cotton)Ash mlange (1% Viscose 99% cotton)

Year of establishment:2001

Year of starting production:2002

Address:Factory: 297, Khortoil, Tongi, Gazipur- 1712

Head office: 297, Khortoil, Tongi, Gazipur- 1712

Telephone no. +880-2- 9813001Fax No. +880-2-9811400

Website: www.viyellatexgroup.com

Project cost: 20 million $ for dyeing and finishing in the year 2008.


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Sections of Viyellatex:

Knitting Section

Yarn Store

Circular Knitting

V-bed Knitting

Inspection

Grey Fabric Store

Garments Section

Merchandising

Sample Section

CAD/CAM Section

Cutting Section

Sewing Section

Maintenance Section

Mechanical

Electrical

Washing Section

Embroidery Section

Printing Section

Store Section

Dyeing Section

Batch Section

Dye House

Dyeing Machine

Finishing

Quality Control


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Location from Dhaka:

Physical Infrastructure:

Viyellatex Group is a Knit Composite Garments Manufacturer & Exporter, having all state of theart facilities with the annual turnover US$ 106.6 Million (2006-2007). They have different typesof Knitting, Dyeing, Cutting, Sewing, and Finishing machines supplied by mostly Germany,Japan, Taiwan, China, U.K, U.S.A, Singapore, etc. which are very latest. It has high productionwhere 30 tons of dyed and finished fabrics are produced per day. The production is controlledby technical persons. All of the decision makers of production sector in Viyellatex Group aretextiles graduates. All the chemicals and dyes use for dyeing and finishing are well branded.

They produce product for their buyer and client coming from international market like U.K,Sweden, Netherland, France, U.S.A, Germany and Spain. Their customer profile is big and topend such as Esprit, M&S, S-Oliver, Puma, G-star, Gap, Tesco and Grew waver etc. They followall the system for their machines maintenance so production cannot hamper.

The mill is built in such a way that there is possibility for further expansion of the mill. Thestructure such as mill, office buildings, record rooms, guard room etc. are made of solid hardconcrete & brick materials. . The whole area is surrounded by safety brick wall .The main set

up for m/cs are built of corrugated iron & iron sheet, transparent hard plastics with enoughventilation & scope for passing light & air. Dyeing, finishing and knitting section have shaderoof. The garments section is in corporate building. The mill has water treatment plant and

Dhaka-Mymensingh Highway

KAIAlluminimCo.Ltd.

MascoIndustriesLtd.

SMP DesignPvt. Ltd.

FH FabricsLtd.

Gajipura

Tongi

Board

Bazar

Dhaka

ViyellaTex


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effluent treatment plant also.it has a large canteen with facilities for 6000 employer. The millhas official quarter for higher rank officers, which is build the previous year.

Vision:To be the most regarded company in Bangladesh by 2015.

Mission: We strive to provide quality services on time, based on best practices for the

satisfaction of our Partners & Stakeholders. We foster friendly working environment throughopen communication and mutual respect. We encourage initiative, innovation and teamwork.Workers welfare and right is our premier focus. We are committed for cleaner and greenerenvironment. We are driven by our responsibility to the society as a Corporate Body.

Viyellatex Values: Integrity Commitment Customer Satisfaction

Innovativeness Fairness Environment

Major buyers of Viyellatex Group:

PVH S-Oliver Puma Espirit G-Star

M & S Ito Yokoda WoolWorths


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Business Achievement of the Group:

Corporate Social Responsibility Commitments:

Execute business with transparency and integrity Comply with all legal requirements to conduct business. Emphasizing and rewarding for better job. To become environment friendly as much as possible. Emphasizing on the up-liftment of the community around the company.

Focusing on improved service to the customers and stakeholders.

Social contribution:

Green (Environment) initiative:

Viyellatex is most renowned environment friendly textile production facility in the world.Our renowned environment initiatives have been well recognized not only by other internationalbusiness organization but also by World Bank & Asian Development Bank as well.Our few exemplary initiatives:

More than 280000 liters of treated effluent water is being used for 7000 workers toiletflush every day, saving 75M liters of underground water every year.

250000 square feet roof top is being used to collect approx. 45 million liters of rainwater which is later used in textile wet processing without utilizing the valuableunderground water and saving extra chemicals of water softening.

5 MW gas generator exhaust used in co-generation chiller to support 750 MT of aircooling in the Viyellatex Spinning Mill. Also in the fabric plant, it is planning to use 3MWgenerator exhaust in the Boiler. Both technology saves substantial energy and reducedcarbon emission.

Re-condensed steam water is being transported to the boiler feeder tank whichincreases the temperature by 15-20C, saves hefty energy and minimizes globalwarming.


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Fabric dryer exhaust is being redirected to air inlet and feed into the burner to reducethe energy consumption. A simple innovative technique which Viyellatex started to use 3years back and now incorporated by famous GMBH Textile Machine Manufacturer,Bruckner in their latest series of Stenter.

Per year approx. 50 Tons of food residue created during lunch of 7000 employees, arebeing used to develop natural fertilizer and being distributed among the neighboring

farmers at free of cost- an initiative which avoids environment pollution and supportsthe community.

Instead of air condition Viyellatex installed Energy Saving Evaporating Cooling System toapparel production floors.

Viyellatex is constantly doing projects with International Partners to develop eco-friendly textile products. It did the Carbon foot print project to minimize the carbonemission in the wet processing with the assistance of world recognize company BASF.

Became self-reliant in the society & unique return for any business group of Bangladesh.


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Manpower management

Viyellatex Group contains a no. of departments and each department is controlled by a chief

operating officer. The board of directors maintains control on overall departments. Viyellatex

limited possess a strong management system and all the activities are done in efficient way and

in a systematic process.

Board of Directors:

1. Mr. K. M. Rezaul Hasanat, Chairman & CEO

2. Mr. Ahasan Kabir Khan, Vice Chairman

3. Mrs. Kaniz Fatema Zareen, Director

4. Amina Salima Khan, Director

Organogram of Viyellatex Group:

Chairman & CEO

Vice Chairman

Group HR

Group

FINANCE

FABRICS

GDL

VSL

VTG

ISML

FPPL

Group IT

Group

Commercial

LM&S

Ruthna Tea

Estate


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BUs Head of Viyellatex:

Organogram of Knitting department:

Mr. Syed Fatemy Ahmed Roomy Director

Mr. Md. Masudul Hoque MD & COO, GDL

Mr. Md. Abu Haider Rumi MD & COO, FPPL

Mr. Arif Bhuiyan COO, Viyellatex Garments

Mr. Kazi Monjurul Islam COO, Viyellatex Fabrics

Mr. Fateh Ul Islam COO, Interfab

Mr. Yakub Ali COO, Ruthna Tea Estate

Mr. Md. Sharif Dad Khan DGM, VSL

Mr. Kazi Shahidul Karim DGM, Commercial, VG

Mr. Ruhul Amin Chowdhury Head of ISS

DGM/AGM

Manager / Asst. Manager

(Store)

Sr. Executive

/ Executive

Jr. Executive

Yarn

Jr. Executive

Gre Fabric

Store Asst.

Yarn

Store Asst.

Gre Fabric

Loader

Yarn

Batch

Hel er/Loade

Manager/Asst.

manager

Sr. Fitter / Fitter

Asst. Fitter

Servicing

man

Needle man

Servicing

helper

Manager / Asst. Manager

(Prodn& Plan)

Knitting

Master/Executive

Operator/Asst.

O erator

Sr. Fitter /

Fitter

Helper

Sr. Executive (Prodn,

Plan & Sample)

Executive/Jr. Executive

Prodn

Plan & Sam le

Sr. Supervisor

/ Supervisor

Asst. operator

Sr.Operator

/ Operator

Production

Sample

supervisor

Sample asst.


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Organogram of dyeing:

Organogram of finishing:

DGM/AGM

Manager

Planning

Asst. Manager

Sr. Executive/

Executive

Jr. Executive

Sr. Supervisor/

Supervisor

Production

Asst. Manager

Sr. Executive/

Executive

Jr. Executive

Sr. Supervisor/

Supervisor

Store

Asst. Manager

Sr. Executive/

Executive

Jr. Executive

Sr. Supervisor/

Supervisor

Washing

Asst. Manager

Sr. Executive/

Executive

Jr. Executive

Sr. Supervisor/

Supervisor


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Management system:

Intercom telephone

Fax

Written letters &

Oral

Shift change:

Viyellatex limited maintain three shifts at every days work. So the shifts are changed at every

three hours. The shifting times are

A Shift06:0014:00

B Shift14:0022:00

C Shift22:0006:00

General shift & Office time:

09.0018.00

Responsibilities of production officer:

To give dyeing program slip.

To match production sample with target shade.

To collect production sample for sample matching next production.

To observe dyed fabric during finishing running & also after finishing.

To identify disputed fabrics & report to P.M/G.M for necessary actions.

To discuss with P.M. about overall production if necessary.

To sign the store requisition & delivery challan in the absence of P.M.

Also to execute overall floor works.

To maintain loading/unloading khata.

Any other assignment given by higher authority.

Job Description of P.O & S.P.O:

Job title: Production officer & Senior Production officer

Report to: Production Manager

Purpose:

To control shift according to the plan made by the production manager

Territory:

Dyeing section (major)

Batching and Finishing section (minor)

Nature and Scope:

Responsible for the production during his own shift with good quality and minimum time.

Environment:

Production officer has to work under huge stress. He has to work in acute heat under physical

and mental pressure. Also he has to work in acute heat all the year round.


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Job Description of Production Officer:

Report To: Sr. production officer

Job Summary:

To plan, execute & follows up the production activities & control the quality production with

related activities.

Duties & Responsibilities:

Overall supervision of dyeing, finishing production.

Batch preparation & PH check.

Dyes & chemical requisition issue & check.

Write fabrics loading & loading time from m/c.

Program making, sample checking, color management.

Control the supervisors, operator, asst. operator & helpers of dyeing m/c.

And also any other work as & when required by the management.

Job Description of Sr. Production Officer:

Report To: P.M (production)

Job Summary:

To plan, execute & follows up the production activities & control the quality production

with related activities.

Duties & Responsibilities:

Overall supervision of dyeing, finishing production.

Checks the different log books of different areas & report to management.

Checks the sensitive parameters of different machine for smooth dyeing.

Checks out the plan to control the best output from supervisor & workers.

To trained up & motive the subordinates how to improve the quality production.

Maintenance of machine & equipment. Any other works & when required by the

management.

Control the supervisors, operator, asst. operator & helpers of dyeing m/c.


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Process flow chart for knitting:

Yarn in package form

Place the package yarn in the yarn

Feeding the yarn

Set the machine as per design & GSM

Knitting

Withdraw the roll fabric and weighing

Roll marking

Inspection

Numbering

Yarn types:

1. 100% cotton

Carded Combed Rotor

2. Man made

Polyester Lycra

3. Blended CVC (Cotton + Polyester)

PC (Polyester + Cotton)

Mlange (Cotton + Viscose)

White/Ecru Mlange (Dyed fiber0.2-2.0%)

Grey Mlange (Dyed fiber2.0-15.0%)

Anthra Mlange (Dyed fiber15.0-30.0%)

4. Regenerated cellulose

Viscose

Modal

Commonly used yarn count:

Carded yarn 18,20,24,26,30,32,34,36 Ne

Combed Yarn 20,22,24,26,28,30,32,34,36,40 Ne

Rotor yarn 7,10,12,14,16 Ne

Polyester yarn75,100,150 Denier

Lycra yarn 20,30,40,50,70 Denier


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Sources of yarn:

1. Cotton (Both Carded & Combed)

- Viyellatex Spinning Limited

2. Polyester

- Kader Synthetic

- China

3. Mlange

- Patartoli

- Prime

- Sohagpur

- Thermax

4. Lycra

- China

- Korea

-

Taiwan- Japan

List of machines:

Name of the machine Quantity

Single jersey 35Fleece 10

Double jersey 19Auto striper (S/J) 06Auto striper (Rib) 02

Flatbed knitting machine 25Fabric inspection machine 03

Brands of the machine:

Fukuhara Matsuya

Mayer & Cie.

Keumyong

Pai Lung

Terrot

Uzu


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Specification of different types of machine:

Single Jersey machine:

Brand name: Pai Lung

Origin: Taiwan

Model: PL XS 3BFeeder: 108

Gauge: 24

Diameter: 36

No of needle: 2712

Machine speed: Up to 35 rpm

Auto Striper machine:

Brand name: Pai Lung

Origin: TaiwanModel: PLXD CS 6UFeeder: 546cGauge: 18Diameter: 36No of needle: 2040Machine speed: Up to 16 rpm

Fabric Inspection machine:

Brand: Uzu cloth inspection machine

Manufacturer: AATPR Industry Co. Ltd.

Model: UZ 900-3

Origin: Thailand

Different parts of the machine:

1. Start/Stop/Inch buttons: This set of buttons is used to start/stop/slow running of

machine.

2.

Ratchet lever: This lever permit the hand movement of the machine.3. Auto stop motion: Automatic three stages 24v yarn motion, positive feed tapes &

knitting zone. Indicator lamps are on individual stop motions & on the main control

panel. While the yarn is broken we can find the location which is broken as well as to

repair, meanwhile the motor can brake and stop operation at once to keep the security

of the machine.

4. Side creel: For each feed, there are two cones of yarn on the creel.

5. Tensioning device: The yarn goes to the feeder of the machine from the creel through

different tensioning devices. These devices are used to maintain the proper tension of

the yarn.

6. Feeder: Feeder is used to feed the yarn.

7. VDQ pulley: This is one of the important parts of the machine. Through VDQ pulley, the

GSM of the fabric is controlled. If the value of the VDQ pulley is increased, then the loop

Double Jersey machine:

Brand name: Pai LungOrigin: TaiwanModel: PL XRA CEFeeder: 76Gauge: 18Diameter: 38No of needle: 2124Machine speed: Up to 24 rpm

Flat Bed Knitting machine:

Brand name: MatsuyaOrigin: Japan

Model: M-100Feeder: 6Gauge: 14Head: 2Bed length: 102


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length of the fabric will be less and the GSM of the fabric will be high. Vice versa for

make low GSM fabric.

8. Auto counter: Two shift revolution with display counter with predetermined stop, to

settle freely the weight or yardage of fabric.

9. Variable speed drive with machine break: Transistor inverter provided for free

controlled, the process of V.S. motor-drive from slow operation to normal operationis quite & fast brake to prevent damages in case of needles or yarn breakage.

10.Fabric take up system: With variable speed control by a belt drive set canbe adjusted

the speed for different course of fabric-constant and uniform fabric tension.

Points should be considered for GSM changing:

1. VDQ (Variable Dia. Quality Control) pulley diameter.2. Yarn count.3. Machine gauge.4. Cam position5. Take up motion

Factors that should be considered for changing of fabric design:

1. Cam arrangement changing.2. Needle butt setting & needle dropping.3. Using of different colors in selected feeder.4. Using of jacquard mechanism.5. Size of the loop shape

Recommended points of buyer:

When a buyer orders for fabric then they mention some points related to production and

quality. Before production of knitted fabric, these factors are needed to consider. Those are as

follows-

1. Diameter of the fabric2. Design of the fabric3. GSM of the fabric4. Total wt. of the fabric5. Yarn count6. Types of yarn

7.

Color of the fabric8. Finishing of fabric.9. Handling & fastness property.


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End products of the knitting machine:

1. Single Jersey machine:

- Plain jersey

- Lycra jersey

- Single Lacoste

- Double Lacoste

- Single Pique

- Double Pique

- Fleece (Three thread)

- Terry Fleece (Two thread)

Production parameters:

- Machine Diameter

-

Machine rpm (revolutions per minute)

- No. of feeds or feeders in use

- Machine Gauge

- Count of yarn

- Required time (Machine running time)

- Machine running efficiency

Production calculation:

1. Production/shift in kg at 100% efficiency:

countYarn

mmSLNeedleofNoFeederofNoRPM

2046.28403654.210

1260)(..

countYarn

mmSLNeedleofNoFeederofNoRPM

80.3527

)(..

2. Production/shift in meter:

100/

1260./

.min/

cmCourse

EfficiencyFeederofNoRPMcmCourse

Course

3. Fabric width in meter:

100/

.

100/

.

cmWales

knittingNeedlesofnoTotal

cmWales

walesofnoTotal

2. Double Jersey machine:

- 11 Rib

- 21 Rib

- Interlock- Mesh

- Flat back Rib

- Waffle

3. V-bed knitting machine:

- Collar

- Cuff

- Emboss


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Methods of increasing production:

There are few ways of increasing production of the machine

1. By increasing m/c speed: Higher the m/c speed faster the movement of needle and

ultimately production will be increased.

2.

By increasing the number of feeder:If the number of feeder is increased in the circumference of cylinder, then the number

of courses will be increased in one revolution at a time

3. By using machine of higher gauge:

The more the machine gauge, the more the production is. So by using machine of

higher gauge, production can be increased.

4. By imposing automation in the m/c:

a) Quick starting & stopping for efficient driving system.

b) Automatic m/c lubrication system for smoother operation.

c) Photo electric fabric fault detector.

5.

By imposing other developments:

a) Using creel-feeding system.

b) Applying yarn supply through plastic tube that eliminates the possibilities of yarn

damage.

c) Using yarn feed control device.

d) Using auto lint removal.

Commonly found fabric faults in the Knitting floor:

Needle mark:Appearance: Spot of line is found at wales direction.

Causes:

Due to decayed needle.

Due to bended needle.

Due to old needle.

Remedies:

Change the needle.

Sinker mark:Appearance: Spot of line is found at wales direction.

Causes:

Due to decayed sinker.

Due to faulty adjustment of sinker with sinker cam.

Remedies:

Change the sinker.

Make necessary adjustments of sinker with sinker cam as required.


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Hole:

Appearance: Hole on the fabric.

Causes:

If needle latch is not working properly.

Due to uneven tension.

Due to needle head breakage. Due to improper cam setting.

Remedies:

Change the needle.

Adjust the tension as required.

Adjust cam setting properly.

Loop:

Appearance: As like small size holes.

Causes:

Due to uneven tension. If cam box is loose, during the cam box setting.

Any type of problem is occurred in m/c setting.

Remedies:

Change the needle & sinker.

Adjust the tension as required.

Baree Mark/Patta:

Appearance: Found stripe effect towards the coarse on knit fabric.

Causes:

If yarns of different lot are mixing together.

If different counts of yarn are mixing together.

Remedies:

Operator should be careful about that different lots of yarn cannot be mix up.

Yarn should be tested before knitting.

Slub:

Appearance: A thick place is made in a particular place on fabric surface.

Causes: Due to using of low quality yarn.

Remedies:

Yarn quality should be good.

Yarn testing should be done very carefully.

Thick & Thin Place:

Appearance: Higher & lower counts of yarn are knitted at a time.

Causes:

Due to using of different counts of yarn during knitting. Due to irregular yarn dia.


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Remedies:

Operator should be careful during the operation that for a particular design.

Count of every cone package should be same.

Tension Mark:

Appearance: Found spot at wales direction of knit fabric.Causes:

Due to excessive tension in yarn.

Remedies:

Tension should be adjusted as required.

Oil Spot:

Appearance: Oil spot on fabric surface.

Causes:

Due to excessive bleeding of oil in the m/c.

If there is any type of problem in needle & sinker, oil can be bled on the fabric.Remedies:

Change the faulty needle & sinker.

Machine should be cleaned time to time.

Pin Hole:

Appearance: Small size of hole as like pin.

Causes:

Due to wrong adjustment of cam box.

If the yarn quality is low especially yarn with less strength causes pin hole in the

fabric.

Remedies:

Make required adjustment of cam box.

Use high quality yarn.

Lycra Out:

Appearance: A Lycra yarn is missing at vertical direction.

Causes:

If Lycra yarn missed or breakage happened.

Remedies: Operator should be more cautious to make necessary adjustment or replacement

or joining the yarn.

Lycra Drop:

Appearance: Tension caused in Lycra out.

Causes:

Due to excessive tension on Lycra yarn when knitted (within its tolerance limit).

Remedies:

Make necessary adjustments to the tension of Lycra yarn.


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Set Off:

Appearance: Found loop gap on knit fabric.

Causes:

Set off occurred when needle & sinker both inactive simultaneously in the

process of knitting.

Remedies: Machine should be stopped as early as possible.

Remarks:Grey fabrics from knitting are used in dyeing. So the quality of the fabrics should be good so

that there are no faults found for knitting of fabric after dyeing process. Also the GSM and

diameter of the fabric should meet the requirements.


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Batching:

Batching is the process to get ready the fabrics which should be dyed and processed for aparticular lot of a particular order. In other words

Batching means separation of fabric according to specification, Dyeing machine capacity &

availability, urgency of the order.Batch contains body of garments as well as collar-cuffs according to the design.

Types of Batching:

1. Solid2. Assorted

Batch Quantity= Total required quantity X Dia Quantity/ Total quantity

Batch Ratio= Total batch quantity + total parts/ Batch Quantity

Batch distribution: Batch is distributed according to nozzle capacity. During distribution maximum equilibrium of different parts is taken into consideration. Lycra fabrics are slit-cut to heat-set. Thats why before dyeing they need to re-sewn.

This is done by Bag-sewing machine.

Tubular fabrics are turned into their backside by turning machine.

Function or Purpose of Batch Section:

-

To receive the grey fabric roll from knitting section or other source.- Turn the grey fabric if required.- To prepare the batch of fabric for dyeing according to the following criteria

Order sheet (Received from buyer) Dyeing shade (color or white, light or dark) M/C capacity M/C available Type of fabrics(100% cotton, PE, PC, CVC) Emergency

- To send the grey fabric to the dyeing floor with batch card.- To keep records for every previous dyeing.

Proper batching criteria:

To use maximum capacity of existing dyeing m/c. To minimize the washing time or preparation time & m/c stoppage time. To keep the no. of batch as less as possible for same shade. To use a particular m/c for dyeing same shade.

Batch management:

Primarily batching is done by dyeing manager taking the above criteria underconsideration. Batch section in charge receives this primary batch plan from dyeing manager.Sometime planning is adjusted according to m/c condition or emergency.


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Machines used in Batching:

1. Bag Sewing machine: There are total 2 sewing machines

Brand: Juki,Model: G39/0141

Power: 10A, 230VType: 2 Needle 2 Looper chain stitches. 1Needle 2 looper in use.Origin: Japan

Brand: Pegasus,Model: M7S2-181

Specification: 2 Needle 4 Loopers. 1 Needle 2Looper in useDevice: BT/88Origin: Japan

2. Turning machine:There are two turning machines also. Both of them have samespecification.

Brand Name : TaidaM/c Speed : 300-500m/minModel : DF 200

Max up clothing : 150 kgCompany : Shandong Taida Dyeing & Finishing Machinery Co. Ltd.Origin : China

3. Light box:

Brand: VerivideModel: CAC60No. of light sources: 4, TL84, D65, F, UVSerial no.: E 614506

Manufacturing year: 2002Power: 220-230V, 270WOrigin: England


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Layout plan of dyeing floor

Number of machine:

Turning machine: 02

Bulk dyeing machine: 15

Sample dyeing machine:

There are two brands of dyeing machine used in Viyellatex. They are:1. Fongs

2.

Thies

Fongs machines are from China and Thies machines are from Germany.


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Number of Fongs Machine:

Bulk machine: 10

Sample machine: 6

Total number of Thies machine:

Bulk machine: 5

Sample machine: 1Total length of dyeing floor: 412 feet

Total width of dyeing floor: 34 feet

Area of the dyeing floor: 41234 = 14008 square feet.

Production per day: Maximum Loading capacity 100% (11.36 tons) Possible maximum loading 80% (9.088 tons) Total production per days (3 shifts) = 9.088 x 2.5 (considering 2.5 batch in 3 shifts)

= 22.72 tons.

Bulk machine specification

M/CNo. Brand Model

Year ofMfg. Origin Capacity

Kg

No. ofNozzle

Maxmtemp

0C

Maxm

PressureKPa

Dimension(inch)

1 Fongs ECO 38 2T 2003 China 500 2 140 380 1218

2 Thies FarbavesselECOSOFTPLUS

2004 Germany 1000 4 140 550 2018


2003 Germany 1000 4 140 550 2018


2002 Germany 250 1 140 550 1218


2002 Germany 500 2 140 550 1418


2002 Germany 750 3 140 550 1618

7 Fongs ECO 61T 2005 China 200 1 140 380 918

8 Fongs ECO 61T 2005 China 250 1 140 380 9189 Fongs ECO 61T 2005 China 750 3 140 380 2018

10 Fongs HSJ-4T 2007 China 1120 4 140 350 2118

11 Fongs HSJ-3T 2007 China 840 3 140 350 1818

12 Fongs HSJ-SR-2T 2007 China 560 2 140 350 1518

13 Fongs HSJ-SR-6T 2007 China 1680 6 140 350 3318

14 Fongs HSJ-SR 2007 China 840 3 140 350 1818

15 Fongs HSJ-SR 2007 China 1120 4 140 350 2418


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Sample machine specification

M/CNo. Brand Model

Year ofMfg. Origin Capacity

Kg

MaximumTemp.

0C

MaximumPressureKPa

Dimension(Inch)

1 Fongs ALLFIT-30 2003 China 25 140 400 913

2 Thies N/A 2002 Germany 25 140 350 613

3 Fongs ALLFIT-30 2005 China 30 140 400 3.511





MACHINE DESCRIPTION

Technology of the dyeing machine:

Viyellatex dyeing unit used special types of dyeing machine. In these machine, the Jet and Winch

technology is combined i.e. during dyeing, dye liquor circulate through the machine like jet dyeing

machine also the fabric is circulated through the winch as like winch dyeing machine. This

combination is made for better dyeing of the fabric.

Main parts of dyeing machine:

The main parts of the dyeing machine are-

1. Main tank

2. Reserve tank/PT tank

3. Additional/Mixing tank

4. Main pump

5. Heat exchanger

6. Filter


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The description of the main parts of the machine is as follows

Main tank:

Main tank is the largest part of the dyeing machine. This is the main dye bath which contains thedye liquor & the fabric. The size of the tank depends on the capacity of the machine. Liquor &

fabric circulates in the main tank during dyeing process. There may have different number of

nozzle connected to main tank according to the machine capacity. Each nozzle may handle 300-

900m of fabric.

Fig: Main Tank

Reserve/PT tank:

This tank is mainly used for storage of hot water that will be used for the dyeing of fabric. The

temperature of water in the P.T. tank is maximum 800C. By using this hot water in the machine

during dyeing there is a reduction of time for heating the water in the main tank which results in

the reduction of total dyeing time.


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Additional/Mixing tank:

This tank is mainly used for storage of hot water that will be used for the dyeing of fabric. The

temperature of water in the P.T. tank is maximum 800C. By using this hot water in the machine

during dyeing there is a reduction of time for heating the water in the main tank which results in

the reduction of total dyeing time.

Fig: Mixing tank

Main pump:

This is one of the essential parts of the dyeing machine. This is used for displacing of dye bath

liquor causing a flow from main tank to heat exchanger through filter. That means the pump

ensures the liquor circulation throughout the dyeing process.

Heat exchanger:

During the different stage of dyeing (also pre-treatment, after-treatment), there is a need of

increasing or decreasing the temperature of dye liquor gradually. We cannot use liquor of

required final temperature directly because there may be possibilities of thermal shocking of the

fabric. So, the temperature should be increased or decreased in a controlled manner. Thiscontrolling is done by heat exchanger. Actually it is an indirect heater. During the circulation of

dye bath liquor, the liquor passes through the heat exchanger.

Mechanism of Heat-exchanger:

1. Heat-exchanger consists of no. of tubes surrounded by a shell body.

2. Two fluids of different temperature flow through the heat exchanger. The fluids can be

either gas or liquid on either the shell side or the tube side.

3. One flows through the tube other flows through the shell.

4. The temperature of the two fluids is different, so transfer of heat occurs from one fluid to

another through shell.


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Figure: Mechanism of Heat exchanger Figure: Heat exchanger

5. The fluids which flow through the tubes come in and pass out from the heat-exchanger on

the same side. On the other hand the fluid used in shell comes in and pass out from the

different side of the shell.

Filter:

During the treatment of fabric in the machine, lots of lose fiber is produced from the fabric. To

eliminate these lose fibers, filter is used. It also reduces the lose fibers loads from the fabric. If

the lose fibers are not eliminated, then the running of fabric is disturbed & entanglement can be

occurred.

Ways of Liquor Flow from Additional Tank:

Liquor from additional tank flow to the main tank is mainly done in two ways. They are

1. Inject: In this system, all amounts of liquor flows directly to the main tank at a time. This

is done when the chemicals need to pass at short time. This system ensures high rate of

flow of the liquid.

2. Dosing: In this system, the liquor does not pass to the main tank at a time. There are few

chemicals which have very severe action to the fabric if it flows directly like sodium

hydroxide (NaOH). These chemicals pass to the main tank in an increasing or decreasing

way with time so that the harsh effect of these chemicals is minimized. There are three

3.

types of dosing:

- Linear Dosing - Progressive Dosing - Decreasive Dosing


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Linear dosing Progressive dosing Decreasive dosing

Liquor circulation system:

During the treatment of fabric, the liquor is circulated throughout the machine. At first, the

required amount of liquor is taken in the main tank. Then the liquor goes to the filter through

pump and then it goes to the heat-exchanger. From the heat-exchanger, the liquor goes to the

main tank through nozzle. The schematic diagram of liquor circulation system is given below-

Figure: Liquor circulation system

Types of machine according to temperature:

Atmospheric machine

High temperature machine


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There are one atmospheric machine of Fongs brand in Viyellatex. Others are high

temperature machine (both Fongs and Thies). Also there are special types of high

temperature machine used in Viyellatex named as Fongs High Speed Jumbo (HSJ) Machine.

Features of Fongs atmospheric machine:

The machine is designed for pre-treatment, dyeing & after-treatment under atmosphericcondition.

Nozzle is sized for smooth passing through by the fabric and extensive exchange with the

liquid.

Two standard nozzle sizes with sufficiently large diameter are available.

Circulation pump is sized for heavy fabric

Production capacity: 500 kg maximum per batch.

Maximum temperature: 98o C.

Maximum pressure: 1 atm.

Figure: Fongs atmospheric machine

Features of high temperature machine (Both Thies & Fongs):

The machine is designed for the pretreatment, dyeing and after treatment which can

provide temperature up to 1400C.

Nozzle lead gets interlocked after temperature exceeds 800C.

Loading per nozzle 250kg

Design pressure: 350-550kpa

Design Temp : 1400C

Hydraulic Test Pressure: 585Kpa Manufacturer: Germany (Thies), China (Fongs)

No of nozzles: 1-8.


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Figure: High temperature machine

Features of Fongs High Speed Jumbo (HSJ) machine:

Variable Loading (VL) storage chamber design gives extra capacity to carry loading up to

280 kg per tube

Heat Exchanger of extreme efficiency gives the largest heating rate with minimum heat

loss to the environment

Multi Saving Rinsing System (MSR) shortens the dye cycle and reduces the water

consumption

Advanced Intelligent Rinsing System (MIR) controls the rinsing water consumption and

shortens the rinsing process

Highly optimized machine structure reaches the lowest possible liquor ratio of 1:4.5 to

run the machine.

Dissolution pumps for proper circulation of liquor.

safety valve test:350kpa

Maximum fabric speed: 400 m/min.

Maximum working temperature: 140 C

Figure: Fongs high speed jumbo machine


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Some additional features of Fongs HSJ machine:

There are few additional features of Fongs HSJ machine which gives more productivity, better

control and less stoppage times of the machine. These are

Dissolution Pump

Variable Loading Chamber MIR Rinsing System

MSR Rinsing System

Dissolution pump:

Dissolution pump makes the chemical concentration (salt, soda, dye, auxiliaries) low

before passing it to the main tank from additional tank.

This concentration is reduced in 1:4 ratios (liquor from additional tank: liquor from main

tank).

As a result rate of chemical dosing become slow which gives better fixation. Thus better color yield and even dyeing can obtain.

Figure: Dissolution pump

Variable Loading Chamber:

This is one of the advanced techniques of space utilization of the round shaped dyeing machine.

Experiment shows that the volume of the chamber can be increased per nozzle up to 30 Kg of

fabric depending upon the linear density of the fabric.

Few advantages of variable loading chamber are

Better alignment of the fabric.

More loading facility.

Less entanglement of the fabric.


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Linear Density Variable chamber setting

Up to 350 g/m 0%

Up to 350-450 g/m 50%

Above 450 g/m 100%

MIR Rinsing System: Multi-function intelligent rinsing system. If the temperature is below 80C It is a Low Level Continuous Rinsing Shorten Rinsing

time. Save Rinsing Water. Fill and Drain at the same time at low level.

Figure: MIR Rinsing System

Figure: Schematic diagram of Variable Loading Chamber


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MSR Rinsing System:

Multi- saving rinsing system.

If the temperature above 80C it is Combined cooling and Rinsing at high temperature.

Save Steam in Hot Rinsing.

Rinsing efficiency at higher temperature is faster, so rinsing time is shortened.

Comparison between Fongs and Thies dyeing machine:

Fongs Thies

Have heat-exchanger for preparation tank.Such facilities are not present.

Liquor pass through the filter & heat-exchanger

Filter and heat-exchanger are separate.

Have dissolution pump for mixing chemical in1:4 ratio.

Not present.

Horizontal heat-exchanger. Vertical heat-exchanger.

Two additional tank. One additional tank.

Variable loading chamber. Not present.

Loading per nozzle 280 kg (HSJ). Loading per nozzle 250 kg

Winch speed can be above 450 m/min. Up to 350 m/min.

Calculation of Winch Speed:

Let,

Fabric weight = 1000kg

Per nozzle fabric weight =250kg

Fabric Diameter (open) = 56 inch

Cycle time or Dwell time = 2.5-3.0 m per minute

G.S.M =180We know, GSM = gram / meter2

= gram / (Length Diameter)

Or, Length = gram / (GSM Diameter)

= (2501000100) / (562.54180)

= 976 meters.

So, Winch or Reel Speed = Per nozzle Fabric length / Cycle time

= 976 / 3 meter/minute

= 325 meter/minute.

Calculation of Linear Density:

Linear Density = (DiameterGSM2.54) / 100 gram/meter


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Production planning and sequence of operation:

Dyeing process flow chart:

Grey fabric receive from knitting section

Batching

Turning of fabric (only for Single Jersey)

Selection machine no

Fabric loading

Select production program

Select recipe for dyeing

Pretreatment

Dyeing

After treatment

Fabric Unload

Production Parameters:

1) PH

- Scouring PH12.5

- During H2O2bleaching PH10.5-11

-Enzyme PH4.5

-Before dyeing (Leveling) PH6.5

2) Temperature:

-For cotton fabric scouring: 105C

During NaOH addition 65oC

During H2O2addition 70oC

Peroxide killing at 80oC

- Sequestering at 90oC

- Bio-polishing at 55oC

- For cotton dyeing:

Low brand45

o

C Medium brand - 600C

Hot brand80oC

-Salt PH7-8

- During reactive dyeing PH10.5-11.5

- During disperse dyeing PH4.5-6.0

- Softener PH6.5

- Migration for turquoise color at90oC

- Optical brightening agent (OBA) at80oC

- Polyester dying: 1000-1300C

- Softener at45oC


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3) Time:

- For white fabric 4-5hrs

- For 100% cotton 8-10hrs

- For 100% polyester 5hrs

- CVC 2 parts 13-14 hrs.

4) M: L ratio:

- For reactive dyeing M: L ratio maintained between 1:6

Pretreatment process:

Typical recipe for scouring: (all in g/l)

Felson NOF0.7

Kapazon H530.5

Caustic2H2O22.5

Recorit wez/Peroxide killer0.75

Acetic acid0.8

Biopolish B-111.5

Securon 5400.5

Pretreatment flow chart

Fresh water and fabric Load at 45oC

Temperature raise to 60oC

Detergent, Peroxide Stabilizer inject

Run for 5 min

Inject Caustic and run 5 min

Raise temperature to 70oC

H2O2inject and run 5 min

Temperature raise to 105oC

Run for 30 min

Lower the temperature to 80oC

Bath drain

Peroxide killer inject and run 10 min

Rinsing and unload the fabric.


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Curve for scouring of fabric:

Types of shade:

Light Medium Dark White

Dyeingprocess

Isothermaldyeing

Migrationdyeing


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evel in at 60 C

Color dosing 60C x 35( linear dosing)

Run time 60C x 15

Salt dissolving 15(recirculation process)

Run 15

Soda dosing for 50( 70% progressive)

Check the sample after 10

Migration Dyeing

evel in at 60 C

Color dosing for 35

Run time 10

Salt dissolving 15 min

Run time 10Temperature rise at 80oC

Run time 20

Temperature drop at 60oC

Order of Color and Salt dissolving/dosing:

In case of 0-1.0 % (light) shade color is dosed first then salt dissolving is

performed. In case of 1-2.5% (medium) shade salt is dissolved at first then color is dosing. In case of 3 & above % (dark) shade salt is dissolved at first then color is dosing.

Dyeing procedure for dark shade: (Black)

Typical recipe: (all in g/l)A41/Leveling agent0.5RS Yell 3RFN0.424 %RS Red 3BFN0.21 %RS Black EDGH9.27 %Salt90

Soda ash5Caustic1.75

Isothermal Dyeing


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Process Flow Chart

Fresh Watertaken at 60oC

Inject Leveling agent and keep for 7 min

Salt dosing 20 min & runtime 20 min

Color dosing 35 min and run for 15 min

Soda dosing for 30 min (70% progressive) and run 10 min

Caustic dosing for 25 min and run 20 min

Sample check after 10 min

Wash and unload.

Curve for black shade (dark) cotton dyeing

Dyeing procedure for Light/Medium Shade:

Typical recipe:SV/Sequestering agent1.5 g/lADM/Leveling agent1 g/lR Yell RR0.106 %

R BR Blue R (SPL)0.172 %Salt24 g/lSoda ash8 g/l


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Flow Chart:

Fabric load and then Water taken

Rise temperature to 60oC

PHcontrol to 6.5

Inject leveling agent and run for 10 min

Color dosing for 45 min + add SV

Run the bath 10 min

Other SV inject and run 20 min

Salt add and run 10 min

Extra Salt addition and run for 20 min

Soda dosing for 60 min

After 10 min Sample check

Rinsing and unloading

Curve for Cotton part Dyeing


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Production flow chart for white shade:

Typical recipe:(all measurement in g/l)

Felson NOF0.5

Kapazon H530.5

Caustic2.5

H2O26

4BK/Whitening agent0.15

Acetic acid1

Biopolish B-111.5

Securon-5400.5

FPG/Softener1.5

Process flow chart

Detergent, Peroxide stabilizer added at 60

0

CFabric load and run for 5 min

Caustic dosing for 5 min at 600C

Temperature rasied to 70oC

Peroxide added and raise temperature to 80oC

Optical brightening agrnt dosing for 10 min and temperature raise to 105oC

Run for 50 min and lower temperature to 80oC

Bath drain and water taken at 80oC

Rinsing for 10 min then bath drain

Fresh water taken and Acetic acid at 60oC

Run for 10 min then again drain the bath

Acetic acid at 55oC and PHcontrol to 4.5

Enzyme is added and run for 50 min at 55oC

Bath drain and fresh water at 60oC

Inject Sequestering agent and temperature raise to 90oC

Run 10 min and add Softener, againg run 20 min

Fabric unload


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Curve for White shade

Dyeing of 100% Polyester

Typical recipe :

Antifoaming agent0.15 g/l

T Yellow W-4G0.0012826 %

DIA BR Red SF0.1333904 %

T Blue WBLS0.00153912 %

AB-450.5 g/l

Process Flow Chart : Fabric Load

Water LevelAs Required

Raise temp to 600C

Add Felson NOF

Raise temp.to 900C & run time 10 min

Bath drainWater in

Raise temperature to 450C

Add acetic acid & runtime 10 min

Bath drain

Water taking

Raise temperature to 450C

Dye dosing for 10 min


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Raise temperature to 1300C & run for 45 min

Drain

Water taking

Cooling at 700C & sample cheek if shade ok then bath drop

Hydrose + Caustic at 800C for 20 min

Hot wash

Curve for Polyester dyeing:

Production flow chart for CVC:

For CVC fabric dyeing, at first polyester part is dyed at 1300C according to dyeing procedure

of 100% polyester dyeing.Then cotton part is first scoured & bleached. Then cotton part is dyed according to

dyeing procedure of 100% cotton.

Turquois color dyeing:

Typical recipe:Kapavon CL/Anticreasing agent0.5 g/lSV/Sequestering agent1.5 g/lR BR Yell 3GL0.0814 %R Turq B1G3.4556 %R BR Blue RSPL3.14 %Salt90 g/lSoda5 g/lCaustic1.75 g/l


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Flow chart of turquoise color dyeing:

Water taken at 60oC and PH= 6.5

Raise the temperature to 80oC

Ant creasing and Sequestering agent inject and run 10 min.

Color + SV dosing for 50 min and run 10 min.

SV inject and run for 10 min.

Salt dosing for 10 min. then run 10 min.

Again Salt dosing and run 10 min

Temperature to 90oC (1oC/min) and run 20 min

Temperature reduce to 80oC

Soda dosing (70% progressive) for 40 min then run 10 min

Caustic dosing (70% Progressive) for 40 min then run 10 min

Sample check

Curve for dyeing with turquoise color:


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Washing of grey mlange fabric:

Level in

Wetting agent at 60C

Bath Drain

Level in

PH 5.5 and temperature 55oC

Enzyme

Run time 60min

Rise temperature to 80C

MIR rinse for 15

Level in

Softener 45Cx10'

Bath Drain

Cold rinse

After treatment

After treatment Process flow chart:

Wash off at 95 C*15 (soaping agent 1-1.5 g/l)

Overflow Rinse/MIR 50C x 15

Acid 0.35 g/l

Softening treatment 45 C x 20 at PH - 4.5~5

Rinse 15

Unload

After treatment process may vary according to byer requirement like whether softener,

anticreasing or enzyme should be applied or not.


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Process Loss:

Fabric types Loss of percentage

Puma (CVC fleece) 14%

S.Oliver (s/j) 13.5%

G.Star (s/j) 12%

M&S (s/j) 10%

Espirit (s/j) 12%

Lycra (S/J) 14%

YID fabrics 7%

Grey mlange

( Puma & M&S)

10%

Grey mlange

(G.Star)

12%

Common dyeing faults with their remedies:

1.

Uneven dyeing:Causes:- Uneven pretreatment (uneven scouring & bleaching).- Rapid addition of Dyes and Chemicals.- Improper color dosing.- Using dyes of high fixation property.- Uneven heat-setting in case of synthetic fibers.- Lack of control on dyeing m/c

Remedies:- By ensuring even pretreatment.

- By ensuring even heat-setting in case of synthetic fibers.- Proper dosing of dyes and chemicals.- Proper controlling of dyeing m/c

2. Batch to Batch Shade variation:

Causes:- Fluctuation of temperature.- Improper dosing time of dyes & chemicals.- Batch to batch weight variation of dyes and chemicals.- Dyes lot variation.- Improper reel speed, pump speed, liquor ratio.- Improper pretreatment.- Liquor ratio changed.- Different dyeing procedure for each batch.


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Remedies:- Use standard dyes and chemicals.- Maintain the same liquor ratio.-Follow the standard pretreatment procedure.-Maintain the same dyeing cycle.

-Identical dyeing procedure should be followed for the same depth of the Shade.- Make sure that the operators add the right bulk chemicals at the same time andtemperature in the process.- The pH, hardness and sodium carbonate content of supply water should check daily.

2. Dye Spots:Causes:

- Not proper agitation of dyestuffs.- Dye bath hardness.- Operators ignorance about mixing and dissolving the dyestuffs and

chemicals.

Remedies:

- Proper agitation of dyestuffs.

- Use adequate amount of sequestering agent to minimize hardness.

Remarks:

We have seen that in dyeing different production parameters like temperature, time, PH,

M:L ratio etc. are strictly followed. Sometimes the original dyeing process may not be foundaccording to dyeing curve as they produce some complicated shade. One thing is clearly

noticeable that production manager and officers are committed to try their best for reducing

production time.


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Types of raw material:

1. Yarn2. Fabric3. Dye stuff4. Chemical and auxiliaries

List of Chemicals used in Viyellatex

Serial No. MaterialDescription Agent1 Acetic Acid Basic Chemicals2 Caustic Soda Basic Chemicals3 Glauber Salt Basic Chemicals4 Hydrogen Peroxide (H2O2) Basic Chemicals5 Soda Ash Basic Chemicals6 Hydrose(BASF) Reduction Clearer7 Hydrose(China) M/C Wash8 Feloson -NOF Detergent9 Rucozen WBL Detergent10 INVADINE-LUN Detergent11 Nearpon BW-LF Detergent12 LUBRIMAX-TL Anti-creasing13 Kappvon -CL Anti-creasing14 BREVIOL PAM-N Anti-creasing15 Kappazon -H-53 Stabilizer16 OXISTAB-C Stabilizer

17 Invatex -PC Peroxide Killer18 Kappatex -PKS Peroxide Killer19 Rucorit WEZ Base Peroxide Killer20 Kilat Sequestering21 Securon-540 Sequestering22 GENENCOR BP NANO Enzyme23 Genencor BF 1600L Enzyme24 BIOPOLISH -B14 Enzyme25 ALBAFLOW-JET Antifoam26 PROFOAM-SLK Antifoam27 Sarabid -LDR Leveling

28 Kappquest -A41 Leveling29 OPTAVON SV Leveling30 CROSCOLOR ADM Leveling31 Rucozen -NZA Soaping32 DEKOL-SN Soaping33 Cycalonan -X-C-W Soaping34 ULYSIN S Soaping35 Protnin -FCE-375 Fixing36 Sapamine -CWS Color Softener37 Nearsopht JS-100 Color Softener38 KAPPASOFT-BD Color Softener

39 SAPAMINE-FPG White Softener40 Nearsopht -NI White Softener41 Rucofin -GWE Silicon Softener42 Rucofin -HHS Silicon Softener


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43 Syno White 4BK Optical Brightener44 Uvitex -CB Optical Brightener45 Uvitex -BAM Optical Brightener46 Uvitex -BBT Optical Brightener47 Uvitex -BHB Optical Brightener48 ALVATEX-AB-45 C.V.C Chemicals

49 ALBATEX-AR C.V.C Chemicals50 UNIVADINE-DIF C.V.C Chemicals51 Repellan SRF Stain release chemicals52 Repellan XL-E Stain release chemicals53 Adalin NI Stain release chemicals54 Foryl LN Stain release chemicals55 Common Salt WTP Chemicals56 Cogulant ETP Chemicals57 Lime ETP Chemicals58 BLUE J OCEAN MAGIC R Washing Chemicals59 AVOLAN IS Washing Chemicals

Dyes with Brand name

Serial No.BEZEMA

1 Bezactive Yellow S-3R

2 Bezaktive Red -S2B

3 Bezaktive Red -S3B

HUNTSMAN

4 Cibacrone -Blue -FNR

5 Cibacrone Yellow -F-4G

6 Cibacrone Yellow -FN-2R

7 NOVACRON BRILL BLUE H-GR

8 NOVACRON BRILL. RED FN-3GL

9 NOVACRON SCARLET FN-6G

10 Terasil Black -WNS

11 Terasil Navy -WRS

12 Terasil Red -W-4BS13 Terasil Yellow -W4G

14 TERASIL BLACK -SRL

JIHUA

15 Reactive Starfix Black-WM

16 Reactive Starfix Red -3-BFN

17 Reactive Starfix Red -EP

18 REACTIVE STARFIX BLACK ED HG

DYSTER

19 Dianix Yellow -SEG

20 Dianix Sport Red-SF

21 DIANIX BRILL RED SF

22 Remazol Blue-RGB


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23 Remazol Navy Blue-RGB

24 Remazol Brill Red -F-3B

25 Remazol Deep Black -RGB

26 Remazol Red -RR

27 Remazol Red-RGB

28 Remazol Ultra Carmine -RGB29 Remazol Yellow -RR

IMPOCOLOUE

30 Imcozin Brill. Blue -VR Special

31 Imcozin Golden Yellow -V-RNL

32 Imcozin Red -E-3BF

33 Imcozin Turquise -VG

34 Imcozin Brill. Yellow -V-4GL

SUNFIX

35 Sunfix Red -MF-3BD

36 Sunfix Red-SPD

37 Sunfix Yellow -SPD

38 Sunfix Navy Blue -MF-D

39 Sunfix Navy Blue -SBF


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Finishing

Textile finishing, in a restricted sense, is the term used for a series of processes to which all

bleached, dyed, printed & certain greige fabrics are subjected before they are put to market.

Its one of the most important operations in knit processing.

Objectives of Finishing:

-Improving the appearance, luster, whiteness etc.

-Improving the feel, this depends on the handle of the material & its softness, suppleness,

fullness etc.

-Wearing qualities, non- soiling, anticrease, antishrink comfort etc.

-Special properties required for particular uses like water -proofing flame-proofing etc.

-Covering of the faults in the original cloth.

-Increasing the weight of the cloth.

Effects of Finishing:-Easy care.

-Crease recovery.

-Dimensional stability.

-Good abrasion resistance.

-Improved tear strength.

-Good sew ability.

- Soft or stiff handle.

-Shine or luster.

Layout of Finishing Section:


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Types of Finishing:

Mechanical Finishing (Used to control dimension to improve appearance & handle)

Chemical Finishing (Used to make glossy protection. To improve performance or

serviceability)

Finishing Process

Knit fabrics require finishing process after dyeing. During dyeing all knit fabrics are dyed in

tubular form. According to buyers requirement dyed fabrics are finished in either tubular

form or Open-width form.

Depending on which Finishing sections are separated into two sectionsOPEN & TUBE section.

1. Tubular finish:

Dewatering

Dryer

Tube Compactor

2. Open finish:

Slitting

Stenter

Open Compactor

3. Special Finish (Raising & Sueding):

Slitting

Stenter

Raising/Sueding

Stenter

Compacting

No. of Machines of finishing section:

Name of the m/c No. of the m/c

Dewatering 2

Slitting 2

Dryer 2

Open compactor 2

Tube compactor 2

Rasing m/c 3

Sueding m/c 1


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1. Dewatering Machine

Machine Specification:

Brand - Heliot International

ModelEXP 226

OriginFranceCapacity3 tones/shift

Function of Dewatering m/c:- Removal of excess water (70-75%)- Removal of residual dirt- De-twisting of the rope fabric- Make the fabric Tubular from Rope form- Improve the hand feel of the fabric by using

softener

Controlling points:

- Width control (can be increased up to 3)- Pressure variation according to GSM

(higher GSM-3-3.5bar, Lower GSM-2-2.5bar)

- Fabric speed - 15m/min

Checking points: Hand feel

Color spot

Softener spot

Fabric Path of Dewatering machine


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2. Slitting machine:

Fabric path of slitting machine

Parameter:

- Padder pressure (1-6 bar)

- Fabric speed (200 m/min)

- Maximum fabric width86-88

Checking points:

- Needle mark

- Dirty spot

Power consumption:

Voltage: 400V

Frequency: 50Hz

Maximum power: 24kwatt

MachineSpecification:Brand - Corino

Model - Strada Monticell 0.231Origin - Italy

Year - 2005

Capacity3 tones/shift

Voltage400V

Frequency50Hz

Function:- Slit the fabric to make it into open form

- Removal of excess amount of water

- De-twisting of the tube fabric


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Dryer Machine:

Two types of dryer machine:

o Heliot dryerfor drying only tube fabrico Santex AG dryerfor drying both tube and open fabric

Heliot Dryer:

Specification

BrandHeliot internationalModelD700 HWTNo of heating chamber3No of burner3No of nozzle - 35Capacity8 tons/dayOriginFrance

Fabric path of Heliot Dryer


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Function:

To dry the fabric

To control the shrinkage

Controlling points:

Overfeed

Temperature (Maximum-1700C, Min- 900C)

Fabric speedMaximum 30m/min

Checking Points:

Shade check

Fabric width

Santex Dryer

Fabric path of Santex AG dryer

Specification:Brand: Santex AG

Type: Santashink

Year: 2008

No of chamber: 5

Capacity: 12 tones/day

Origin: Switzerland

Function:- To dry the fabric

- To control fabric dia

- To control Fabric shrinkage

- To control the fabric GSM

(can be increased 10-15 GSM)

- To apply special chemical


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Controlling points:

Overfeed (050%)

Temperature (Maximum1800C)

Vibration800

Fabric speed (Maximum 80m/min)

Fabric width (open fabric

Checking Points:

Shade check

Width check

GSM check

Temperature:

White/light shade: 100-120`C

Medium shade; 110-130`C

Dark shade: 140-160`C

Stenter Machine

Two types of Stenter machine:

1. Bruckner Stenter machine

2. Sun Super Stenter machine

Bruckner Stenter machine:

Specification:

Brand name: BRUCKNER

Type/model no: 72276-0463

Country: Germany

Total no of chamber: 5

Maximum temp.: 2500C

Steam pressure: max. 2 bar

Air pressure: max. 10 bar

Capacity: 3 tones/shift

Main parts of the machine:

i) Feed zone-Centering device

ii) Chemical padding zone-Squeezing roller-Chemical tray

iii) Bowing control zone-Bowing roller (rubber roller, no of roller -2)-Sensor (no of sensor -6)-

Uncurling rolleriv) Chain entry zone

-Uncurling device (both side of the chain entry)


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-Sensor (both side of the chain entry)-Brush roller (for attaching the fabric with the pin of the chain, no of brush roller

-4)-Selvedge gumming device with gum box under the chain entry

v) Drying zone-Gas rotamatic burner (10)

vi)

Cooling zonevii) Delivery zone

Function:

Drying

GSM control

Width control

Shrinkage control

Decrease spirality

Decrease Bowing effect

Heat setting for cotton lycra fabric

Controlling points:

- Overfeed (45-60%)

- Temperature (max 2500C)

- Fabric Speed (18-28m/min)

- Padder pressure (1.52 bar)

Checking points:

Shade

GSM Width

Faults (Uneven, Color spot, Shrinkage, Hole, Needle mark etc.)

Finishing parameters for different types of fabrics in BRUCKNER machine:

Fabric type GSM Dia Temperature Overfeed Padder

pressure

Speed Blower

RPM

s/j 115-150 2''plus 110-140C 45-55% 2 bar 20-25 60-70

s/j 160-220 2''plus 120-170C 45-50% 2.5 bar 18-23 65-75

L.S/J 160-220 4''plus 130-160C 60% 2 bar 18-23 60-70

L.S/J 200-250 4''plus 140-160C 60% 2 bar 12-20 65-75

Pique 160-250 3''plus 130-160C 50-55% 1.5-2bar 20-25 70-80

Fleece/terry 260-300 4"plus 140-170C 50-55% 2 bar 20-25 70-80

1*1rib 160-220 2"plus 130-160C 50% 2bar 24-28 70-802*2rib 190-220 2"plus 140-160C 50% 2 bar 20-25 60-70Interlock 190-220 3"plus 130-160C 50% 2 bar 20-25 70-80


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Sunsuper Stenter Machine

Specification:Brand name: SUN SUPER.

Country: KOREA.

Total no of chamber: 8Capacity: 4 tones/shift

Speed: Max. 110m/min

Temperature: Max 2200C

Steam pressure: 2 bar

Air pressure: 10 bar

Function: To dry the fabric.

Heat-set the synthetic fiber fabric.

Controlling the width of fabric or maintain dimensional stability.

Controlling the GSM of fabric.

Skew ness & Bowing controlling of stripe fabric.

Spirality & Twisting control.

Fabric hand-feel modification-like-Softening or Hardening. Shade control.

Gumming & Cutting.

Controlling Points:

Overfeed (050%)

Temperature

Speed

Padder pressure

Checking Points: Shade

Width

GSM

Faults

Finishing parameters for different types of fabrics in Sunsuper stenter:

Fabric type GSM Dia Temperature Overfeed Padderpressure

Speed BlowerRPM

s/j 115-150 2''plus 110-140C 40-45% 2 bar 30-35 1100-1300

s/j 160-220 2''plus 120-170C 40-45% 2.5 bar 25-30 1200-1400L.s/j 160-220 4'plus 130-160C 50% 2 bar 25-30 1200-1400L.S/J 200-250 4'plus 140-160C 50% 2 bar 24-28 1200-1400


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Utility for stenter machines:

Gas Electricity Compressed air.

Compacting machine:

Two types of compacting machines are used in Viyellatex-

1. Open compacting machine

2. Tube compacting machine

1. Brand: FERRARO 2. Brand: Heliot

Type/model: COMPTEX-RE 2800 Overfeed: 50-60%

Country: ITALY Temperature: 90-1300C

Year: 2006 Teflon pressure: 16-18 PSI

Capacity: 3.5 tons/shift Origin: France

Function:

Fabric compaction

Make glossy, luster effect

To control the shrinkage

To maintain proper width and GSM

Controlling points:

Overfeed

Temperature

Speed

Pique 160-200 3'plus 130-160C 40-45% 1.5-2bar 25-30 1200-1400Fleece/terry 260-300 4"plus 140-170C 40-45% 2 bar 20-25 1300-14001*1rib 160-220 2"plus 130-160C 45% 2bar 24-28 1300-14002*2rib 190-220 2"plus 140-160C 45% 2 bar 20-25 1200-1400Interlock 190-220 3"plus 130-160C 50% 2 bar 20-25 1200-1400


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Specification:

Brand name: HELIOT INTERNATIONAL

Model: HC99PI

Company: France.

Capacity: 3 tones/shift

Function: To control the shrinkage

To maintain proper width of fabric

To control fabric GSM

Controlling Points:

Overfeed

Temperature

Fabric Speed

Special Finishing machine:1. Sueding machineSpecification:

Brand name: Lafer SPA

Type/model no: GSI106

Company: Italy

Year: 2002

Fabric speed: 110 m/min

Function:

To make the fabric smooth(Face side of the fabric)

To increase the handle property Improve heat insulation properties.

Controlling Points:

Drum speed

Fabric tension

Plaiter tension

Fabric path of sueding machine

Taker in

Front Drag RollerDrum

Plaiter

Delivery

Feed

Rear Drag Roller

Checking points:

Fabric GSM Shrinkage

Fabric diameter

Crease mark

Utility for Compacting machine:

Steam

Electricity

Compressed Air


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Checking Points: Hole Improper Sueding Line mark Quality of Sueding

2. Raising machine:

Specification:

Brand name: Lafer SPA

Type/model no: GRI 224A

Country: Italy

Year: 2003

Capacity: 3.5 tones/shift

Fabric speed: 90rpmFunction:

To produce pile on fabric surface

To increase hand feel of the fabric

To make the fabric soft

Increase the warmth of the fabric.

Fabric path of raising machine

Inspection in Finishing Section

Steps of Inspection:

1ststep- Shade Check

2ndstep- Running Shade Check

3rdStep- Dia Check4thStep- Faults & G.S.M Check

ControllingPoints:

Pile & Counter pile speed

Drum speed

Fabric tension

Plaiter tension

Checking Points:

Hole

Uneven raised Line mark

Quality of raising


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Measurement of Fabric Faults:

Four Point System:

Defect Length Assigned Point

0-3 1 point

3.1-6 2 point

6.1-9 3 point>9.1 4 point

Calculation:

Average points/100 yds. = total points /total inspected yds. * 100

Faults appeared in finishing

Defects Source

Hole Knitting

Oil Stain KnittingFly Yarn Knitting

Barrie Mark Knitting

Chemical Stain Dyeing

Dye Stain Dyeing

Patches Dyeing

Uneven Shade Dyeing

Crease Mark Dyeing + Knitting

Neps Fiber Problem

Yarn Contamination Spinning

Bowing FinishingCrumple Mark Finishing


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Working procedure of laboratory:

Sample in (Fabrics)

Check & note the Lot no, Style no, Item no & Collar

Sample Preparation

Run the test

Physical test Wet lab

Color Fastness to washBursting strength

Pilling Color Fastness to washingCrocking

Evaluate the sample Pre-production Sample Final sample

Report Making Test Test

Prepared the report prepared the reportPass Fail

Deliver Refinish Pass Fail Pass Fail

Need to test again Go for the final Refinish

Need to test againDimensional Stability.

Prepare the sample

Wash the sample according to buyer method.

Tumble dry

Keep the sample flat in the conditioned temperatureAt least four hours before, after measurement.

Measure the sample

Prepared the report

Pass Fail

Ready to delivery Refinish

Need to test again


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14. Lap dyeing m/cM/C name: Ahiba Nuance lab dyeing m/cJames H.Heal & Co ltd.

15. Perspiration testerJames H.Heal & Co ltd.

16. Digital PH tester

17. Lab rotator

18. RotawashTest name: C/F to washing dry cleaningTest method: ISO 105-C06.ISO 105-DO2

Quality Assurance System:

The quality assurance department is assigned to maintain consistency for uniform quality of thematerial in process & various stages of its manufacturing.

Objects of quality control:

Research Selection of raw material process control Process development Product testing Specification test

Quality Control system mainly two types:

1. Online QC

2. Offline QC

1. Online QC

Online quality control comprises with the raw material quality control and the process control.

Raw material control:

As the quality of product depends on the raw materials quality so we must provide the best

quality raw material with an economical consideration. The fabric must be fault-free, withproper absorbency, whiteness as per requirement of the subsequent process. The Grey

inspection report gives the condition of the raw fabric.

Process control:The method chosen for the process must be provided with the necessary accurate parameters.Here the specific gravity, water level, residual hydrogen per oxide etc. at each stage is checked.

Laboratory:

Lab is the important part of a textile industry. Higher precision in a trial can aid easily to achieve

the goal of the organization. Before bulk production a sample for the approval from industry is

sent to the buyer. As per the requirement of the buyer the shade is prepared in a lab

considering the economic aspects.


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Lab line:

1. Standard sample: It is obtained from buyer. The sample is measured by the CCM toget the recipe.

2. Lab trial: Getting the recipe the lab officer produce lab trial and match with standardaccording to buyer requirement. Lab trial is made by the AHIBA dyeing machine. There aresome programs for dyeing. The programs will be described later.

2. Offline QC

Off-line tests: All the Offline tests for finished fabrics can be grouped as follows:

A. Physical testsB. Chemical tests

Physical Tests:

GSM test Shrinkage test

Spirality test Tensile strength Abrasion resistance

Pilling resistance

Button Strength Testing

Crease resistance

Dimensional stability

Bursting strength test

Fabric Inspection:

The fabric inspection is done for both grey and finished fabric.

1. Grey Fabric Inspection:

Grey fabric inspection is performed according to 4-point system.

2. Finished Fabric Inspection:4 point numbering system is followed for finished fabric inspection. Defects found in the

final inspection:

1. Uneven shade

2. Oil spot

3.

Neps4. Crease mark

5. Machine Stoppage mark

6. Listing

7. Line mark

8. Pick missing

9. Double yarn

10.Dead cotton

11.Bowing

12.

Fly yarn contamination

Chemical Tests: Color Fastness to washing. Color Fastness to light.

Color Fastness to heat. Color Fastness to Chlorinatedwater.

Color Fastness to waterspotting.

Color Fastness to perspiration. Color Fastness to Sea-water. Fiber analysis. PHtest. Spray test (water repellency).


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Procedure of the Different Tests:

Physical test:

1. Measuring the Dimensional Stability (Shrinkage & Spirality):

Sample: Two pieces of 50 cm 50 cm fabric is taken for test.

Procedure:a. Conditioning: Put the sample in table for 4 hrs. for conditioning before starting

test.b. Cut the sample 50x50 cm & benchmark should be 35x35 cm. Stitch the sample (3

sides) by over lock sewing machine.c. Put sample in washing machine and run according to buyers choice.d. Drying: All Buyers requirement is tumble Dry except ECHO SCOURING is flat dry.

2. Pilling test:

Procedure:Cut the fabric 12.5 x 12.5cm & balance mark should be 10cm by using template. Then sew the

fabric so that it can be firmly fit in the tube molded polyurethane tubes. Then four tubes areplaced in a box & start 602 rev/min for 5 hrs. or according to buyer requirement. Here mainly

used 3hrs (1100 cycle). Then assess the pilling by putting tested specimen on the viewing

cabinet & compare with standard photographs

3. PH Test:

Procedure:Take 2gm sample fabrics and cut into small pieces. Then put it conical flax with 100cc water(M: L -1:50). Then shake it 15 min, then place it in a shaker m/c for 1 hour. Then check PH byPHmeter.

4. GSM TEST:

Procedure:GSM is the most important factor. There is a GSM cutter. The sample is cut by the GSM

cutter is weighted in the electronic balance. The reading (in gm.) from the balance is multipliedby 100 to get the value of GSM.5. Bursting Strength Test: Cut sample of 250x250 mm2shape and see how much air pressure is needed to tear

apart.

160-250 KPa is the allowable range for all.

Chemical Test:

1. Color Fastness to Wash Test:

Required materials:

1. Sample size 10cm x 4cm

2. Multi-fiber of 10cm x 4cm

3. ECE detergent (WOB)4g/L

4. Sodium Perborate (Na2BO3.H2O2.3H2O2-1g/L) - 1g/L

5. Distilled water

6. Normal cold water

7. Steel balls


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Required instrument:

1. Rota Wash machine

2. Scissors

3. Stitch machine

Procedure:

1.

Cut sample & multi-fiber at 10cm x 4cm and then stitch.2. 5g/l ECE detergent (WOB) & 1g/l ml Sodium per borate tetra hydrate is taken with

the sample.

For Marks & Spencer, the solution is taken by the following formula:

3. The sample is kept in 600C for 30 minutes in Rota Wash Machine. Weight this

composite specimen to calculate the volume of wash liquor required to give a 1:50

liquor ratio. (i.e. 50 ml of liquor of 1gm of composite specimen.)

4. Rinse the sample twice with cold water.

5. Dry at 60C by hanging or by Flat iron pressing but temperature should not be more

than 150C.

Report:Dry the specimen and the change of shade & degree of staining is measured by Grey

Scale & Staining Scale.

2. Color Fastness to Perspiration Test:

Test specimen:

Sample fabric50 mm 50 mm

Multifiber fabric 50 mm 100 mm

Cut the multifiber into two pieces

Sandwich the test specimen between two pieces of multi-fiber.

Testing Solution:

1. Alkaline Solution:

Histadine monohydro chloride monohydrate (C6H10ClN3O2.H2O)5.00 g/L

NaCl5.00 g/L

Di sodium hydrogen orthophosphate (Na2HPO4.2H2O)2.5 g/L

PH8 (Adjust by 0.1 N NaOH)

2. Acidic Solution:

Histadine monohydro chloride monohydrate (C6H10ClN3O2.H2O)5.00 g/L

NaCl5.00 g/L

Sodium di-hydrogen orthophosphate (NaH2PO4.2H2O)2.5g/LPH5.5 (Adjust by 0.1 N NaOH)

Method:

- The composite specimen is put in a petri dish (2 specimen of a sample).

- Solution (Alkaline & Acidic) is taken in the two petri dishes. Here, M:L is taken 1:20.

- Bubble is made out from the specimen by tapping.

- The specimen is kept for 30 minutes.

- A glass plate is placed on the composite specimen for 15 minutes at room

temperature.

- Excess solution is poured off.

-

Petri dish with composite specimen & glass plate is placed into the incubator at(372)0C for 4 hours.

- The specimen is dried (temp 600C)


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Report:

- Change of shade & degree of staining is measured by the Grey Scale & Staining

Scale.3. Color Fastness to Water Test:

Test specimen:

Sample fabric50 mm 50 mmMulti fiber fabric50 mm 100 mm

Cut the multi-fiber into two piece

Sandwich the test specimen between two pieces of multi-fiber.

Testing Solution:

Water is taken as required

Method:

- The composite specimen is put in a petri dish (2 specimen of a sample).

- Water is taken in the petri dish as required.

- Bubble is made out from the specimen by tapping.

- The specimen is kept for 30 minutes.

- A glass plate is placed on the composite specimen for 15 minutes at room

temperature.

- Excess solution is poured off.

- Petri dish with composite specimen & glass plate is placed into the incubator at

(372)0C for 4 hours.

- The specimen is then dried (Temp 600C)

Report:

- Change of shade & degree of staining is measured by the Grey Scale & Staining Scale.

4. Color the Fastness to Rubbing (Dry & Wet) Test:

Sample:

- Dyed fabric dimension of 15 cm 5 cm

- White Test Cloth of 5 cm 5 cm

Procedure:

- White test cloth is put on to the grating and stag by steel wire.

- The sample is run twenty times manually for ten seconds and the rubbing fastness

of the sample cloth and degree of staining is accessed.

- For rubbing fastness (Wet), the rubbing cloth is placed in the water and socked and

squeeze. The wet rubbing cloth is placed on to the grating and stag with stainless

steel wire and run ten times manually. Then assess the staining on to the rubbing

cloth and the rubbing fastness of the sample cloth is accessed.

Report:

- Change of shade of the sample is measured with grey scale and degree of staining

of the white test cloth is measured by Staining Scale.

Shrinkage Test Calculation:

Shrinkage % = (Before washAfter wash)/Before Wash*100


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Spirality test calculation:

S = (S1+S2) / 2

Spirality = (S+S L)/100.

Suppose,S1= The right side distance of the specimen from the stitch line after wash.S2= The left side distance of the specimen from the stitch line after wash.L = Length before wash

Lab. Dip Dyeing

Sample:- Weight5gm.

Procedure:- At first the recipe for the sample is calculated according to the sample weight.

- The fabric is kept in the dyeing chamber.

- Then the dyes, chemicals, salt & required amount of water is taken in that dyeing

chamber by digital pipetting on the basis of stock solution.

- Then the beaker is set into the lab. Dip. Dyeing machine for dyeing.

- The program for dyeing is started for 20 min at 400C.

- After 20 min soda is added by pipetting.

- Then the dyeing program is set for 60 min at 60 0C for normal colour,80C for

turquois colour,130C for PET.

- When the dyeing time is finished the sample is taken out from the machine at 400C.

- Then

Mill Training Report (Viyellatex), Dyeing - Rafsan

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