Mill training report (viyellatex), Dyeing- Md, Rafsan Jany

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Acknowledgements First of all, our gratefulness goes to Almighty Allah who gave us strength and ability to complete the industrial training and prepare this report; may your name be exalted, honored & glorified. We are highly delighted to express our regards & gratitude to honorable Vice-Chancellor Prof. Dr. Nitai Chandra Sutradhar & Prof. Dr. Md. Zulhash Uddin; Dean, Faculty of Textile Chemical Processing Engineering & Applied Science, for providing us the opportunity to complete our industrial attachment with Viyellatex Group. Our heartiest gratitude to our supervising teacher, Mrs. Sharfun Nahar Arju; Head, Department of Wet Processing Engineering to whom we are extremely indebted for her tremendous support and guidance throughout our training period, without her help it would not have been possible to complete the training successfully. We also take the opportunity to express our sincere thanks to the management, administration & personnel of Viyellatex Group for giving us permission to complete our training period in this industry. We are really grateful to our industrial coordinator Engr. Dewan Mahbub Kamran, Executive Dyeing, Viyellatex Group for his encouragement, inspiration, support, supervision, special care & co-operation during training period. We would also like to thank specially Engr. Faridul Hasan, Executive Dyeing and also Engr. Mr. Mahmud, Engr. Mr. Arif, Engr. Mr. Faisal, Engr. Mr. Fayez for their Cordial Cooperation during the intern period. Above all, we would like to acknowledge our deep debt to all teachers of our university & particularly of Wet Processing Department for their kind inspiration & help, which remain as the backdrop of all our efforts.

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Mill Training Report

Transcript of Mill training report (viyellatex), Dyeing- Md, Rafsan Jany

  • 1. AcknowledgementsFirst of all, our gratefulness goes to Almighty Allah who gave us strength and ability to complete the industrial training and prepare this report; may your name be exalted, honored & glorified.We are highly delighted to express our regards & gratitude to honorable Vice-Chancellor Prof. Dr. Nitai Chandra Sutradhar & Prof. Dr. Md. Zulhash Uddin; Dean, Faculty of Textile Chemical Processing Engineering & Applied Science, for providing us the opportunity to complete our industrial attachment with Viyellatex Group.Our heartiest gratitude to our supervising teacher, Mrs. Sharfun Nahar Arju; Head, Department of Wet Processing Engineering to whom we are extremely indebted for her tremendous support and guidance throughout our training period, without her help it would not have been possible to complete the training successfully.We also take the opportunity to express our sincere thanks to the management, administration & personnel of Viyellatex Group for giving us permission to complete our training period in this industry.We are really grateful to our industrial coordinator Engr. Dewan Mahbub Kamran, Executive Dyeing, Viyellatex Group for his encouragement, inspiration, support, supervision, special care & co-operation during training period.We would also like to thank specially Engr. Faridul Hasan, Executive Dyeing and also Engr. Mr. Mahmud, Engr. Mr. Arif, Engr. Mr. Faisal, Engr. Mr. Fayez for their Cordial Cooperation during the intern period.Above all, we would like to acknowledge our deep debt to all teachers of our university & particularly of Wet Processing Department for their kind inspiration & help, which remain as the backdrop of all our efforts.

2. Table of ContentsS.N.ContentsPage No.1Introduction32Project Description43Manpower Management114Knitting Section165Batch Section276Dyeing Section307Raw Materials568Finishing609Laboratory7510Garments Section8611Printing Section9012Embroidery Section9513Washing Section9614Maintenance10115Utilities10816Effluent Treatment Plant11417Inventory Control11818Costing12019Marketing12420Recommendations12721Conclusion128 3. IntroductionBy means of practical knowledge it is possible to apply the theoretical knowledge in the practical field. For any technical education practical experience is almost equally important in association with the theoretical knowledge.The industrial attachment is the process which builds understanding skill and attitude of the performer, which improves his/her knowledge in boosting productivity and services. Academic education provides us vast theoretical knowledge as well as more practical attachment, despite all these industrial attachment help us to be familiar with the technical support of modern machinery, skill ness about various operation stages.It also provides us sufficient practical knowledge about production management, Productivity evaluation, work study, efficiency, industrial management, production planning & control, production cost analysis, inventory management, purchasing, utility & maintenance of machinery and their operation techniques etc. The above mentioned cannot be achieved successfully by means of theoretical knowledge only. This is why it should be accomplished with practical knowledge in which it is based on industrial attachment makes us reliable to be accustomed with the industrial atmosphere & improve courage & inspiration to take self- responsibility.At Viyellatex Limited, cutting-edge technologies merge seamlessly with human ingenuity and deep seat recommitment to ensure excellence in every stage and area of their activities. From fiber to fabric, Viyellatex Limited is truly integrated undertaking. The Viyellatex Limited has the capability to offer a complete product range for the export textile markets. The goal of Viyellatex Limited is to become the preferred partner for sourcing high quality fabrics and clothing from Bangladesh with highly advanced technology and an emphasis on developing local human resources. 4. Project description 5. Project Description Company Name: Viyellatex group ltd. Status: Private Ltd. Company Type: 100% Export oriented composite knit Dyeing Industry. Sponsor: Mr. Rezaul Hasnat. Annual Production Capacity for dyeing: 75000tons Product Mix: 100% cotton 100% polyestera) Spunb) Filament Nylon Chief Value Cotton (CVC) Polyester Cotton blend Gray mlange (15% Viscose 85% cotton10% Viscose 90% cotton30% Viscose 70% cotton)Ash mlange (1% Viscose 99% cotton) Year of establishment: 2001 Year of starting production: 2002 Address:Factory: 297, Khortoil, Tongi, Gazipur- 1712Head office: 297, Khortoil, Tongi, Gazipur- 1712Telephone no. +880-2- 9813001Fax No. +880-2-9811400Website: www.viyellatexgroup.com Project cost: 20 million $ for dyeing and finishing in the year 2008. 6. Sections of Viyellatex:Knitting Section Yarn Store Circular Knitting V-bed Knitting Inspection Grey Fabric Store Garments Section Merchandising Sample Section CAD/CAM Section Cutting Section Sewing Section Maintenance Section Mechanical Electrical Washing Section Embroidery Section Printing Section Store Section Dyeing Section Batch Section Dye House Dyeing Machine Finishing Quality Control 7. Location from Dhaka:Physical Infrastructure:Viyellatex Group is a Knit Composite Garments Manufacturer & Exporter, having all state of the art facilities with the annual turnover US$ 106.6 Million (2006-2007). They have different types of Knitting, Dyeing, Cutting, Sewing, and Finishing machines supplied by mostly Germany, Japan, Taiwan, China, U.K, U.S.A, Singapore, etc. which are very latest. It has high production where 30 tons of dyed and finished fabrics are produced per day. The production is controlled by technical persons. All of the decision makers of production sector in Viyellatex Group are textiles graduates. All the chemicals and dyes use for dyeing and finishing are well branded.They produce product for their buyer and client coming from international market like U.K, Sweden, Netherland, France, U.S.A, Germany and Spain. Their customer profile is big and top end such as Esprit, M&S, S-Oliver, Puma, G-star, Gap, Tesco and Grew waver etc. They follow all the system for their machines maintenance so production cannot hamper.The mill is built in such a way that there is possibility for further expansion of the mill. The structure such as mill, office buildings, record rooms, guard room etc. are made of solid hard concrete & brick materials. . The whole area is surrounded by safety brick wall .The main set up for m/cs are built of corrugated iron & iron sheet, transparent hard plastics with enough ventilation & scope for passing light & air. Dyeing, finishing and knitting section have shade roof. The garments section is in corporate building. The mill has water treatment plant and Dhaka-Mymensingh Highway KAI Alluminim Co.Ltd. Masco Industries Ltd. SMP Design Pvt. Ltd. FH Fabrics Ltd. Gajipura Tongi Board Bazar Dhaka ViyellaTex 8. effluent treatment plant also.it has a large canteen with facilities for 6000 employer. The mill has official quarter for higher rank officers, which is build the previous year. Vision: To be the most regarded company in Bangladesh by 2015. Mission: We strive to provide quality services on time, based on best practices for the satisfaction of our Partners & Stakeholders. We foster friendly working environment through open communication and mutual respect. We encourage initiative, innovation and teamwork. Workers welfare and right is our premier focus. We are committed for cleaner and greener environment. We are driven by our responsibility to the society as a Corporate Body. Viyellatex Values: Integrity Commitment Customer Satisfaction Innovativeness Fairness EnvironmentMajor buyers of Viyellatex Group: PVH S-Oliver Puma Espirit G-Star M & S Ito Yokoda WoolWorths 9. Business Achievement of the Group: Corporate Social Responsibility Commitments: Execute business with transparency and integrity Comply with all legal requirements to conduct business. Emphasizing and rewarding for better job. To become environment friendly as much as possible. Emphasizing on the up-liftment of the community around the company. Focusing on improved service to the customers and stakeholders. Social contribution:Green (Environment) initiative:Viyellatex is most renowned environment friendly textile production facility in the world. Our renowned environment initiatives have been well recognized not only by other international business organization but also by World Bank & Asian Development Bank as well.Our few exemplary initiatives: More than 280000 liters of treated effluent water is being used for 7000 workers toilet flush every day, saving 75M liters of underground water every year. 250000 square feet roof top is being used to collect approx. 45 million liters of rain water which is later used in textile wet processing without utilizing the valuable underground water and saving extra chemicals of water softening. 5 MW gas generator exhaust used in co-generation chiller to support 750 MT of air cooling in the Viyellatex Spinning Mill. Also in the fabric plant, it is planning to use 3MW generator exhaust in the Boiler. Both technology saves substantial energy and reduced carbon emission. Re-condensed steam water is being transported to the boiler feeder tank which increases the temperature by 15-20C, saves hefty energy and minimizes global warming. 10. Fabric dryer exhaust is being redirected to air inlet and feed into the burner to reduce the energy consumption. A simple innovative technique which Viyellatex started to use 3 years back and now incorporated by famous GMBH Textile Machine Manufacturer, Bruckner in their latest series of Stenter. Per year approx. 50 Tons of food residue created during lunch of 7000 employees, are being used to develop natural fertilizer and being distributed among the neighboring farmers at free of cost- an initiative which avoids environment pollution and supports the community. Instead of air condition Viyellatex installed Energy Saving Evaporating Cooling System to apparel production floors. Viyellatex is constantly doing projects with International Partners to develop eco- friendly textile products. It did the Carbon foot print project to minimize the carbon emission in the wet processing with the assistance of world recognize company BASF. Became self-reliant in the society & unique return for any business group of Bangladesh. 11. Manpower managementViyellatex Group contains a no. of departments and each department is controlled by a chief operating officer. The board of directors maintains control on overall departments. Viyellatex limited possess a strong management system and all the activities are done in efficient way and in a systematic process. Board of Directors:1. Mr. K. M. Rezaul Hasanat, Chairman & CEO2. Mr. Ahasan Kabir Khan, Vice Chairman3. Mrs. Kaniz Fatema Zareen, Director4. Amina Salima Khan, Director Organogram of Viyellatex Group:Chairman & CEO Vice ChairmanGroup HR Group FINANCE FABRICS GDL VSL VTG ISML FPPL Group IT Group Commercial LM&S Ruthna Tea Estate 12. BUs Head of Viyellatex: Organogram of Knitting department:Mr. Syed Fatemy Ahmed RoomyDirectorMr. Md. Masudul HoqueMD & COO, GDLMr. Md. Abu Haider RumiMD & COO, FPPLMr. Arif BhuiyanCOO, Viyellatex GarmentsMr. Kazi Monjurul IslamCOO, Viyellatex FabricsMr. Fateh Ul IslamCOO, InterfabMr. Yakub AliCOO, Ruthna Tea EstateMr. Md. Sharif Dad KhanDGM, VSLMr. Kazi Shahidul KarimDGM, Commercial, VGMr. Ruhul Amin ChowdhuryHead of ISS DGM/AGM Manager / Asst. Manager (Store) Sr. Executive / Executive Jr. Executive (Yarn) Jr. Executive (Grey Fabric) Store Asst. (Yarn) Store Asst. (Grey Fabric) Loader (Yarn) Batch Helper/LoadeManager/Asst. manager Sr. Fitter / Fitter Asst. Fitter Servicing man Needle man Servicing helper Manager / Asst. Manager (Prodn & Plan) Knitting Master/Executive (Flat) Operator/Asst. Operator Sr. Fitter / Fitter Helper Sr. Executive (Prodn, Plan & Sample) Executive/Jr. Executive (Prodn, Plan & Sample) Sr. Supervisor / Supervisor Asst. operator Sr.Operator / Operator Production Helper Sample supervisor Sample asst. 13. Organogram of dyeing: Organogram of finishing:DGM/AGM Manager Planning Asst. Manager Sr. Executive/ Executive Jr. Executive Sr. Supervisor/ Supervisor Production Asst. Manager Sr. Executive/ Executive Jr. Executive Sr. Supervisor/ Supervisor Store Asst. Manager Sr. Executive/ Executive Jr. Executive Sr. Supervisor/ Supervisor Washing Asst. Manager Sr. Executive/ Executive Jr. Executive Sr. Supervisor/ Supervisor 14. Management system: Intercom telephone Fax Written letters & OralShift change:Viyellatex limited maintain three shifts at every days work. So the shifts are changed at every three hours. The shifting times are A Shift 06:00 14:00B Shift 14:00 22:00C Shift 22:00 06:00General shift & Office time:09.00 18.00Responsibilities of production officer: To give dyeing program slip. To match production sample with target shade. To collect production sample for sample matching next production. To observe dyed fabric during finishing running & also after finishing. To identify disputed fabrics & report to P.M/G.M for necessary actions. To discuss with P.M. about overall production if necessary. To sign the store requisition & delivery challan in the absence of P.M. Also to execute overall floor works. To maintain loading/unloading khata. Any other assignment given by higher authority.Job Description of P.O & S.P.O:Job title: Production officer & Senior Production officerReport to: Production ManagerPurpose:To control shift according to the plan made by the production managerTerritory:Dyeing section (major)Batching and Finishing section (minor)Nature and Scope:Responsible for the production during his own shift with good quality and minimum time.Environment:Production officer has to work under huge stress. He has to work in acute heat under physical and mental pressure. Also he has to work in acute heat all the year round. 15. Job Description of Production Officer:Report To: Sr. production officerJob Summary:To plan, execute & follows up the production activities & control the quality production with related activities.Duties & Responsibilities: Overall supervision of dyeing, finishing production. Batch preparation & PH check. Dyes & chemical requisition issue & check. Write fabrics loading & loading time from m/c. Program making, sample checking, color management. Control the supervisors, operator, asst. operator & helpers of dyeing m/c. And also any other work as & when required by the management.Job Description of Sr. Production Officer:Report To: P.M (production)Job Summary:To plan, execute & follows up the production activities & control the quality production with related activities.Duties & Responsibilities: Overall supervision of dyeing, finishing production. Checks the different log books of different areas & report to management. Checks the sensitive parameters of different machine for smooth dyeing. Checks out the plan to control the best output from supervisor & workers. To trained up & motive the subordinates how to improve the quality production. Maintenance of machine & equipment. Any other works & when required by the management. Control the supervisors, operator, asst. operator & helpers of dyeing m/c. 16. Process flow chart for knitting:Yarn in package formPlace the package yarn in the yarnFeeding the yarnSet the machine as per design & GSMKnittingWithdraw the roll fabric and weighingRoll markingInspectionNumberingYarn types:1. 100% cotton Carded Combed Rotor2. Man made Polyester Lycra3. Blended CVC (Cotton + Polyester) PC (Polyester + Cotton) Mlange (Cotton + Viscose) White/Ecru Mlange (Dyed fiber 0.2-2.0%) Grey Mlange (Dyed fiber 2.0-15.0%) Anthra Mlange (Dyed fiber 15.0-30.0%)4. Regenerated cellulose Viscose ModalCommonly used yarn count: Carded yarn 18,20,24,26,30,32,34,36 Ne Combed Yarn 20,22,24,26,28,30,32,34,36,40 Ne Rotor yarn 7,10,12,14,16 Ne Polyester yarn 75,100,150 Denier Lycra yarn 20,30,40,50,70 Denier 17. Sources of yarn:1. Cotton (Both Carded & Combed)- Viyellatex Spinning Limited2. Polyester- Kader Synthetic- China3. Mlange- Patartoli- Prime- Sohagpur- Thermax4. Lycra- China- Korea- Taiwan- JapanList of machines:Name of the machineQuantitySingle jersey35Fleece10Double jersey19Auto striper (S/J)06Auto striper (Rib)02Flatbed knitting machine25Fabric inspection machine03Brands of the machine: Fukuhara Matsuya Mayer & Cie. Keumyong Pai Lung Terrot Uzu 18. Specification of different types of machine:Single Jersey machine:Brand name: Pai LungOrigin: TaiwanModel: PL XS 3BFeeder: 108Gauge: 24Diameter: 36No of needle: 2712Machine speed: Up to 35 rpmAuto Striper machine:Brand name: Pai LungOrigin: TaiwanModel: PLXD CS 6UFeeder: 546cGauge: 18Diameter: 36No of needle: 2040Machine speed: Up to 16 rpmFabric Inspection machine:Brand: Uzu cloth inspection machineManufacturer: AATPR Industry Co. Ltd.Model: UZ 900-3Origin: ThailandDifferent parts of the machine:1. Start/Stop/Inch buttons: This set of buttons is used to start/stop/slow running of machine.2. Ratchet lever: This lever permit the hand movement of the machine.3. Auto stop motion: Automatic three stages 24v yarn motion, positive feed tapes & knitting zone. Indicator lamps are on individual stop motions & on the main control panel. While the yarn is broken we can find the location which is broken as well as to repair, meanwhile the motor can brake and stop operation at once to keep the security of the machine.4. Side creel: For each feed, there are two cones of yarn on the creel.5. Tensioning device: The yarn goes to the feeder of the machine from the creel through different tensioning devices. These devices are used to maintain the proper tension of the yarn.6. Feeder: Feeder is used to feed the yarn.7. VDQ pulley: This is one of the important parts of the machine. Through VDQ pulley, the GSM of the fabric is controlled. If the value of the VDQ pulley is increased, then the loop Double Jersey machine: Brand name: Pai Lung Origin: Taiwan Model: PL XRA CE Feeder: 76 Gauge: 18 Diameter: 38 No of needle: 2124 Machine speed: Up to 24 rpm Flat Bed Knitting machine: Brand name: Matsuya Origin: Japan Model: M-100 Feeder: 6 Gauge: 14 Head: 2 Bed length: 102 19. length of the fabric will be less and the GSM of the fabric will be high. Vice versa for make low GSM fabric.8. Auto counter: Two shift revolution with display counter with predetermined stop, to settle freely the weight or yardage of fabric.9. Variable speed drive with machine break: Transistor inverter provided for free controlled, the process of V.S. motor-drive from slow operation to normal operation is quite & fast brake to prevent damages in case of needles or yarn breakage.10. Fabric take up system: With variable speed control by a belt drive set canbe adjusted the speed for different course of fabric-constant and uniform fabric tension.Points should be considered for GSM changing:1. VDQ (Variable Dia. Quality Control) pulley diameter.2. Yarn count.3. Machine gauge.4. Cam position5. Take up motionFactors that should be considered for changing of fabric design:1. Cam arrangement changing.2. Needle butt setting & needle dropping.3. Using of different colors in selected feeder.4. Using of jacquard mechanism.5. Size of the loop shapeRecommended points of buyer:When a buyer orders for fabric then they mention some points related to production and quality. Before production of knitted fabric, these factors are needed to consider. Those are as follows-1. Diameter of the fabric2. Design of the fabric3. GSM of the fabric4. Total wt. of the fabric5. Yarn count6. Types of yarn7. Color of the fabric8. Finishing of fabric.9. Handling & fastness property. 20. End products of the knitting machine:1. Single Jersey machine:- Plain jersey- Lycra jersey- Single Lacoste- Double Lacoste- Single Pique- Double Pique- Fleece (Three thread)- Terry Fleece (Two thread)Production parameters:- Machine Diameter- Machine rpm (revolutions per minute)- No. of feeds or feeders in use- Machine Gauge- Count of yarn- Required time (Machine running time)- Machine running efficiencyProduction calculation:1. Production/shift in kg at 100% efficiency:YarncountRPM No of Feeder No of Needle SL mm 10 2.54 36 840 2.2046. . ( ) 60 12YarncountRPM No of Feeder No of Needle SL mm 3527.80. . ( )2. Production/shift in meter:/ 100. 60 12//min . Course cmRPM No of Feeder EfficiencyCourse cmCourse3. Fabric width in meter:/ 100./ 100.Wales cmTotal no of Needles knittingWales cmTotal no of wales2. Double Jersey machine:- 11 Rib- 21 Rib- Interlock- Mesh- Flat back Rib- Waffle3. V-bed knitting machine:- Collar- Cuff- Emboss 21. Methods of increasing production:There are few ways of increasing production of the machine 1. By increasing m/c speed: Higher the m/c speed faster the movement of needle and ultimately production will be increased.2. By increasing the number of feeder:If the number of feeder is increased in the circumference of cylinder, then the number of courses will be increased in one revolution at a time3. By using machine of higher gauge:The more the machine gauge, the more the production is. So by using machine of higher gauge, production can be increased.4. By imposing automation in the m/c:a) Quick starting & stopping for efficient driving system.b) Automatic m/c lubrication system for smoother operation.c) Photo electric fabric fault detector.5. By imposing other developments:a) Using creel-feeding system.b) Applying yarn supply through plastic tube that eliminates the possibilities of yarn damage.c) Using yarn feed control device.d) Using auto lint removal.Commonly found fabric faults in the Knitting floor: Needle mark:Appearance: Spot of line is found at wales direction.Causes: Due to decayed needle. Due to bended needle. Due to old needle.Remedies: Change the needle. Sinker mark:Appearance: Spot of line is found at wales direction.Causes: Due to decayed sinker. Due to faulty adjustment of sinker with sinker cam.Remedies: Change the sinker. Make necessary adjustments of sinker with sinker cam as required. 22. Hole:Appearance: Hole on the fabric.Causes: If needle latch is not working properly. Due to uneven tension. Due to needle head breakage. Due to improper cam setting.Remedies: Change the needle. Adjust the tension as required. Adjust cam setting properly. Loop:Appearance: As like small size holes.Causes: Due to uneven tension. If cam box is loose, during the cam box setting. Any type of problem is occurred in m/c setting.Remedies: Change the needle & sinker. Adjust the tension as required. Baree Mark/Patta:Appearance: Found stripe effect towards the coarse on knit fabric.Causes: If yarns of different lot are mixing together. If different counts of yarn are mixing together.Remedies: Operator should be careful about that different lots of yarn cannot be mix up. Yarn should be tested before knitting. Slub:Appearance: A thick place is made in a particular place on fabric surface.Causes: Due to using of low quality yarn.Remedies: Yarn quality should be good. Yarn testing should be done very carefully. Thick & Thin Place:Appearance: Higher & lower counts of yarn are knitted at a time.Causes: Due to using of different counts of yarn during knitting. Due to irregular yarn dia. 23. Remedies: Operator should be careful during the operation that for a particular design. Count of every cone package should be same. Tension Mark:Appearance: Found spot at wales direction of knit fabric.Causes: Due to excessive tension in yarn.Remedies: Tension should be adjusted as required. Oil Spot:Appearance: Oil spot on fabric surface.Causes: Due to excessive bleeding of oil in the m/c. If there is any type of problem in needle & sinker, oil can be bled on the fabric.Remedies: Change the faulty needle & sinker. Machine should be cleaned time to time. Pin Hole:Appearance: Small size of hole as like pin.Causes: Due to wrong adjustment of cam box. If the yarn quality is low especially yarn with less strength causes pin hole in the fabric.Remedies: Make required adjustment of cam box. Use high quality yarn. Lycra Out:Appearance: A Lycra yarn is missing at vertical direction.Causes: If Lycra yarn missed or breakage happened.Remedies: Operator should be more cautious to make necessary adjustment or replacement or joining the yarn. Lycra Drop:Appearance: Tension caused in Lycra out.Causes: Due to excessive tension on Lycra yarn when knitted (within its tolerance limit).Remedies: Make necessary adjustments to the tension of Lycra yarn. 24. Set Off:Appearance: Found loop gap on knit fabric.Causes: Set off occurred when needle & sinker both inactive simultaneously in the process of knitting.Remedies: Machine should be stopped as early as possible.Remarks:Grey fabrics from knitting are used in dyeing. So the quality of the fabrics should be good so that there are no faults found for knitting of fabric after dyeing process. Also the GSM and diameter of the fabric should meet the requirements. 25. Batching:Batching is the process to get ready the fabrics which should be dyed and processed for a particular lot of a particular order. In other wordsBatching means separation of fabric according to specification, Dyeing machine capacity & availability, urgency of the order.Batch contains body of garments as well as collar-cuffs according to the design.Types of Batching:1. Solid2. AssortedBatch Quantity = Total required quantity X Dia Quantity/ Total quantityBatch Ratio = Total batch quantity + total parts/ Batch QuantityBatch distribution: Batch is distributed according to nozzle capacity. During distribution maximum equilibrium of different parts is taken into consideration. Lycra fabrics are slit-cut to heat-set. Thats why before dyeing they need to re-sewn. This is done by Bag-sewing machine. Tubular fabrics are turned into their backside by turning machine.Function or Purpose of Batch Section:- To receive the grey fabric roll from knitting section or other source.- Turn the grey fabric if required.- To prepare the batch of fabric for dyeing according to the following criteria Order sheet (Received from buyer) Dyeing shade (color or white, light or dark) M/C capacity M/C available Type of fabrics(100% cotton, PE, PC, CVC) Emergency- To send the grey fabric to the dyeing floor with batch card.- To keep records for every previous dyeing.Proper batching criteria: To use maximum capacity of existing dyeing m/c. To minimize the washing time or preparation time & m/c stoppage time. To keep the no. of batch as less as possible for same shade. To use a particular m/c for dyeing same shade.Batch management:Primarily batching is done by dyeing manager taking the above criteria under consideration. Batch section in charge receives this primary batch plan from dyeing manager. Sometime planning is adjusted according to m/c condition or emergency. 26. Machines used in Batching:1. Bag Sewing machine: There are total 2 sewing machinesBrand: Juki,Model: G39/0141Power: 10A, 230VType: 2 Needle 2 Looper chain stitches. 1 Needle 2 looper in use.Origin: JapanBrand: Pegasus,Model: M7S2-181Specification: 2 Needle 4 Loopers. 1 Needle 2 Looper in useDevice: BT/88Origin: Japan2. Turning machine: There are two turning machines also. Both of them have same specification.Brand Name : TaidaM/c Speed : 300-500m/minModel : DF 200Max up clothing : 150 kgCompany : Shandong Taida Dyeing & Finishing Machinery Co. Ltd.Origin : China3. Light box:Brand: VerivideModel: CAC60No. of light sources: 4, TL84, D65, F, UVSerial no.: E 614506Manufacturing year: 2002Power: 220-230V, 270WOrigin: England 27. Layout plan of dyeing floorNumber of machine:Turning machine: 02Bulk dyeing machine: 15Sample dyeing machine:There are two brands of dyeing machine used in Viyellatex. They are:1. Fongs2. ThiesFongs machines are from China and Thies machines are from Germany. 28. Number of Fongs Machine:Bulk machine: 10Sample machine: 6Total number of Thies machine:Bulk machine: 5Sample machine: 1Total length of dyeing floor: 412 feetTotal width of dyeing floor: 34 feetArea of the dyeing floor: 41234 = 14008 square feet.Production per day: Maximum Loading capacity 100% (11.36 tons) Possible maximum loading 80% (9.088 tons) Total production per days (3 shifts) = 9.088 x 2.5 (considering 2.5 batch in 3 shifts)= 22.72 tons.Bulk machine specificationM/CNo.BrandModelYear ofMfg.OriginCapacityKgNo. ofNozzleMaxmtemp0CMaxmPressureKPaDimension(inch)1FongsECO 38 2T2003China500214038012182ThiesFarbavesselECOSOFTPLUS2004Germany1000414055020183ThiesFarbavesselECOSOFTPLUS2003Germany1000414055020184ThiesFarbavesselECOSOFTPLUS2002Germany250114055012185ThiesFarbavesselECOSOFTPLUS2002Germany500214055014186ThiesFarbavesselECOSOFTPLUS2002Germany750314055016187FongsECO 61T2005China20011403809188FongsECO 61T2005China25011403809189FongsECO 61T2005China7503140380201810FongsHSJ-4T2007China11204140350211811FongsHSJ-3T2007China8403140350181812FongsHSJ-SR-2T2007China5602140350151813FongsHSJ-SR-6T2007China16806140350331814FongsHSJ-SR2007China8403140350181815FongsHSJ-SR2007China112041403502418 29. Sample machine specificationM/CNo.BrandModelYear ofMfg.OriginCapacityKgMaximumTemp.0CMaximumPressureKPaDimension(Inch)1FongsALLFIT-302003China251404009132ThiesN/A2002Germany251403506133FongsALLFIT-302005China301404003.5114FongsALLFIT-302005China1201404006165FongsALLFIT-302006China301403504116FongsALLFIT-302007China601403504157FongsALLFIT-302007China60140350415MACHINE DESCRIPTIONTechnology of the dyeing machine:Viyellatex dyeing unit used special types of dyeing machine. In these machine, the Jet and Winch technology is combined i.e. during dyeing, dye liquor circulate through the machine like jet dyeing machine also the fabric is circulated through the winch as like winch dyeing machine. This combination is made for better dyeing of the fabric.Main parts of dyeing machine:The main parts of the dyeing machine are-1. Main tank2. Reserve tank/PT tank3. Additional/Mixing tank4. Main pump5. Heat exchanger6. Filter 30. The description of the main parts of the machine is as follows Main tank:Main tank is the largest part of the dyeing machine. This is the main dye bath which contains the dye liquor & the fabric. The size of the tank depends on the capacity of the machine. Liquor & fabric circulates in the main tank during dyeing process. There may have different number of nozzle connected to main tank according to the machine capacity. Each nozzle may handle 300- 900m of fabric.Fig: Main TankReserve/PT tank:This tank is mainly used for storage of hot water that will be used for the dyeing of fabric. The temperature of water in the P.T. tank is maximum 800C. By using this hot water in the machine during dyeing there is a reduction of time for heating the water in the main tank which results in the reduction of total dyeing time. 31. Additional/Mixing tank:This tank is mainly used for storage of hot water that will be used for the dyeing of fabric. The temperature of water in the P.T. tank is maximum 800C. By using this hot water in the machine during dyeing there is a reduction of time for heating the water in the main tank which results in the reduction of total dyeing time.Fig: Mixing tankMain pump:This is one of the essential parts of the dyeing machine. This is used for displacing of dye bath liquor causing a flow from main tank to heat exchanger through filter. That means the pump ensures the liquor circulation throughout the dyeing process.Heat exchanger:During the different stage of dyeing (also pre-treatment, after-treatment), there is a need of increasing or decreasing the temperature of dye liquor gradually. We cannot use liquor of required final temperature directly because there may be possibilities of thermal shocking of the fabric. So, the temperature should be increased or decreased in a controlled manner. This controlling is done by heat exchanger. Actually it is an indirect heater. During the circulation of dye bath liquor, the liquor passes through the heat exchanger.Mechanism of Heat-exchanger:1. Heat-exchanger consists of no. of tubes surrounded by a shell body.2. Two fluids of different temperature flow through the heat exchanger. The fluids can be either gas or liquid on either the shell side or the tube side.3. One flows through the tube other flows through the shell.4. The temperature of the two fluids is different, so transfer of heat occurs from one fluid to another through shell. 32. Figure: Mechanism of Heat exchanger Figure: Heat exchanger5. The fluids which flow through the tubes come in and pass out from the heat-exchanger on the same side. On the other hand the fluid used in shell comes in and pass out from the different side of the shell.Filter:During the treatment of fabric in the machine, lots of lose fiber is produced from the fabric. To eliminate these lose fibers, filter is used. It also reduces the lose fibers loads from the fabric. If the lose fibers are not eliminated, then the running of fabric is disturbed & entanglement can be occurred.Ways of Liquor Flow from Additional Tank:Liquor from additional tank flow to the main tank is mainly done in two ways. They are 1. Inject: In this system, all amounts of liquor flows directly to the main tank at a time. This is done when the chemicals need to pass at short time. This system ensures high rate of flow of the liquid.2. Dosing: In this system, the liquor does not pass to the main tank at a time. There are few chemicals which have very severe action to the fabric if it flows directly like sodium hydroxide (NaOH). These chemicals pass to the main tank in an increasing or decreasing way with time so that the harsh effect of these chemicals is minimized. There are three3. types of dosing:- Linear Dosing - Progressive Dosing - Decreasive Dosing 33. Linear dosing Progressive dosing Decreasive dosingLiquor circulation system:During the treatment of fabric, the liquor is circulated throughout the machine. At first, the required amount of liquor is taken in the main tank. Then the liquor goes to the filter through pump and then it goes to the heat-exchanger. From the heat-exchanger, the liquor goes to the main tank through nozzle. The schematic diagram of liquor circulation system is given below-Figure: Liquor circulation systemTypes of machine according to temperature: Atmospheric machine High temperature machine 34. There are one atmospheric machine of Fongs brand in Viyellatex. Others are high temperature machine (both Fongs and Thies). Also there are special types of high temperature machine used in Viyellatex named as Fongs High Speed Jumbo (HSJ) Machine.Features of Fongs atmospheric machine: The machine is designed for pre-treatment, dyeing & after-treatment under atmospheric condition. Nozzle is sized for smooth passing through by the fabric and extensive exchange with the liquid. Two standard nozzle sizes with sufficiently large diameter are available. Circulation pump is sized for heavy fabric Production capacity: 500 kg maximum per batch. Maximum temperature: 98o C. Maximum pressure: 1 atm.Figure: Fongs atmospheric machineFeatures of high temperature machine (Both Thies & Fongs): The machine is designed for the pretreatment, dyeing and after treatment which can provide temperature up to 1400C. Nozzle lead gets interlocked after temperature exceeds 800C. Loading per nozzle 250kg Design pressure: 350-550kpa Design Temp : 1400C Hydraulic Test Pressure: 585Kpa Manufacturer: Germany (Thies), China (Fongs) No of nozzles: 1-8. 35. Figure: High temperature machineFeatures of Fongs High Speed Jumbo (HSJ) machine: Variable Loading (VL) storage chamber design gives extra capacity to carry loading up to 280 kg per tube Heat Exchanger of extreme efficiency gives the largest heating rate with minimum heat loss to the environment Multi Saving Rinsing System (MSR) shortens the dye cycle and reduces the water consumption Advanced Intelligent Rinsing System (MIR) controls the rinsing water consumption and shortens the rinsing process Highly optimized machine structure reaches the lowest possible liquor ratio of 1:4.5 to run the machine. Dissolution pumps for proper circulation of liquor. safety valve test:350kpa Maximum fabric speed: 400 m/min. Maximum working temperature: 140 CFigure: Fongs high speed jumbo machine 36. Some additional features of Fongs HSJ machine:There are few additional features of Fongs HSJ machine which gives more productivity, better control and less stoppage times of the machine. These are Dissolution Pump Variable Loading Chamber MIR Rinsing System MSR Rinsing SystemDissolution pump: Dissolution pump makes the chemical concentration (salt, soda, dye, auxiliaries) low before passing it to the main tank from additional tank. This concentration is reduced in 1:4 ratios (liquor from additional tank: liquor from main tank). As a result rate of chemical dosing become slow which gives better fixation. Thus better color yield and even dyeing can obtain.Figure: Dissolution pumpVariable Loading Chamber:This is one of the advanced techniques of space utilization of the round shaped dyeing machine. Experiment shows that the volume of the chamber can be increased per nozzle up to 30 Kg of fabric depending upon the linear density of the fabric.Few advantages of variable loading chamber are Better alignment of the fabric. More loading facility. Less entanglement of the fabric. 37. Linear Density Variable chamber settingUp to 350 g/m 0%Up to 350-450 g/m 50%Above 450 g/m 100%MIR Rinsing System: Multi-function intelligent rinsing system. If the temperature is below 80C It is a Low Level Continuous Rinsing Shorten Rinsingtime. Save Rinsing Water. Fill and Drain at the same time at low level.Figure: MIR Rinsing SystemFigure: Schematic diagram of Variable Loading Chamber 38. MSR Rinsing System: Multi- saving rinsing system. If the temperature above 80C it is Combined cooling and Rinsing at high temperature. Save Steam in Hot Rinsing. Rinsing efficiency at higher temperature is faster, so rinsing time is shortened.Comparison between Fongs and Thies dyeing machine:Fongs ThiesHave heat-exchanger for preparation tank.Such facilities are not present.Liquor pass through the filter & heat-exchangerFilter and heat-exchanger are separate.Have dissolution pump for mixing chemical in1:4 ratio.Not present.Horizontal heat-exchanger.Vertical heat-exchanger.Two additional tank.One additional tank.Variable loading chamber.Not present.Loading per nozzle 280 kg (HSJ).Loading per nozzle 250 kgWinch speed can be above 450 m/min.Up to 350 m/min.Calculation of Winch Speed:Let,Fabric weight = 1000kgPer nozzle fabric weight =250kgFabric Diameter (open) = 56 inchCycle time or Dwell time = 2.5-3.0 m per minuteG.S.M =180We know, GSM = gram / meter2= gram / (Length Diameter)Or, Length = gram / (GSM Diameter)= (2501000100) / (562.54180)= 976 meters.So, Winch or Reel Speed = Per nozzle Fabric length / Cycle time= 976 / 3 meter/minute= 325 meter/minute.Calculation of Linear Density:Linear Density = (DiameterGSM2.54) / 100 gram/meter 39. Production planning and sequence of operation:Dyeing process flow chart:Grey fabric receive from knitting sectionBatchingTurning of fabric (only for Single Jersey)Selection machine noFabric loadingSelect production programSelect recipe for dyeingPretreatmentDyeingAfter treatmentFabric UnloadProduction Parameters:1) PH- Scouring PH 12.5- During H2O2 bleaching PH 10.5-11- Enzyme PH 4.5- Before dyeing (Leveling) PH 6.52) Temperature:-For cotton fabric scouring: 105C During NaOH addition 65oC During H2O2 addition 70oC Peroxide killing at 80oC- Sequestering at 90oC- Bio-polishing at 55oC- For cotton dyeing: Low brand 45oC Medium brand - 600C Hot brand 80oC- Salt PH 7-8- During reactive dyeing PH 10.5-11.5- During disperse dyeing PH 4.5-6.0- Softener PH 6.5- Migration for turquoise color at 90oC- Optical brightening agent (OBA) at 80oC- Polyester dying: 1000-1300C- Softener at 45oC 40. 3) Time:- For white fabric 4-5hrs- For 100% cotton 8-10hrs- For 100% polyester 5hrs- CVC 2 parts 13-14 hrs.4) M: L ratio:- For reactive dyeing M: L ratio maintained between 1:6Pretreatment process:Typical recipe for scouring: (all in g/l)Felson NOF 0.7Kapazon H53 0.5Caustic 2H2O2 2.5Recorit wez/Peroxide killer 0.75Acetic acid 0.8Biopolish B-11 1.5Securon 540 0.5Pretreatment flow chartFresh water and fabric Load at 45oCTemperature raise to 60oCDetergent, Peroxide Stabilizer injectRun for 5 minInject Caustic and run 5 minRaise temperature to 70oCH2O2 inject and run 5 minTemperature raise to 105oCRun for 30 minLower the temperature to 80oCBath drainPeroxide killer inject and run 10 minRinsing and unload the fabric. 41. Curve for scouring of fabric:Types of shade: Light Medium Dark WhiteDyeingprocessIsothermaldyeingMigrationdyeing 42. evel in at 60 CColor dosing 60C x 35( linear dosing)Run time 60C x 15Salt dissolving 15 (recirculation process)Run 15Soda dosing for 50( 70% progressive)Check the sample after 10Migration Dyeingevel in at 60 CColor dosing for 35Run time 10Salt dissolving 15 minRun time 10Temperature rise at 80oCRun time 20 Temperature drop at 60oCOrder of Color and Salt dissolving/dosing: In case of 0-1.0 % (light) shade color is dosed first then salt dissolving isperformed. In case of 1-2.5% (medium) shade salt is dissolved at first then color is dosing. In case of 3 & above % (dark) shade salt is dissolved at first then color is dosing.Dyeing procedure for dark shade: (Black)Typical recipe: (all in g/l)A41/Leveling agent 0.5RS Yell 3RFN 0.424 %RS Red 3BFN 0.21 %RS Black EDGH 9.27 %Salt 90Soda ash 5Caustic 1.75Isothermal Dyeing 43. Process Flow ChartFresh Water taken at 60oCInject Leveling agent and keep for 7 minSalt dosing 20 min & runtime 20 minColor dosing 35 min and run for 15 minSoda dosing for 30 min (70% progressive) and run 10 minCaustic dosing for 25 min and run 20 minSample check after 10 minWash and unload.Curve for black shade (dark) cotton dyeingDyeing procedure for Light/Medium Shade:Typical recipe:SV/Sequestering agent 1.5 g/lADM/Leveling agent 1 g/lR Yell RR 0.106 %R BR Blue R (SPL) 0.172 %Salt 24 g/lSoda ash 8 g/l 44. Flow Chart:Fabric load and then Water takenRise temperature to 60oCPH control to 6.5Inject leveling agent and run for 10 minColor dosing for 45 min + add SVRun the bath 10 minOther SV inject and run 20 min Salt add and run 10 minExtra Salt addition and run for 20 minSoda dosing for 60 minAfter 10 min Sample checkRinsing and unloadingCurve for Cotton part Dyeing 45. Production flow chart for white shade:Typical recipe: (all measurement in g/l)Felson NOF 0.5Kapazon H53 0.5Caustic 2.5H2O2 64BK/Whitening agent 0.15Acetic acid 1Biopolish B-11 1.5Securon-540 0.5FPG/Softener 1.5Process flow chartDetergent, Peroxide stabilizer added at 600CFabric load and run for 5 minCaustic dosing for 5 min at 600CTemperature rasied to 70oCPeroxide added and raise temperature to 80oCOptical brightening agrnt dosing for 10 min and temperature raise to 105oCRun for 50 min and lower temperature to 80oCBath drain and water taken at 80oCRinsing for 10 min then bath drainFresh water taken and Acetic acid at 60oCRun for 10 min then again drain the bathAcetic acid at 55oC and PH control to 4.5Enzyme is added and run for 50 min at 55oCBath drain and fresh water at 60oCInject Sequestering agent and temperature raise to 90oCRun 10 min and add Softener, againg run 20 minFabric unload 46. Curve for White shadeDyeing of 100% PolyesterTypical recipe :Antifoaming agent 0.15 g/lT Yellow W-4G 0.0012826 %DIA BR Red SF 0.1333904 %T Blue WBLS 0.00153912 %AB-45 0.5 g/lProcess Flow Chart :Fabric LoadWater Level As RequiredRaise temp to 600CAdd Felson NOFRaise temp.to 900C & run time 10 minBath drainWater inRaise temperature to 450CAdd acetic acid & runtime 10 minBath drainWater takingRaise temperature to 450CDye dosing for 10 min 47. Raise temperature to 1300C & run for 45 minDrainWater takingCooling at 700C & sample cheek if shade ok then bath dropHydrose + Caustic at 800C for 20 minHot washCurve for Polyester dyeing:Production flow chart for CVC:For CVC fabric dyeing, at first polyester part is dyed at 1300C according to dyeing procedureof 100% polyester dyeing.Then cotton part is first scoured & bleached. Then cotton part is dyed according todyeing procedure of 100% cotton.Turquois color dyeing:Typical recipe:Kapavon CL/Anticreasing agent 0.5 g/lSV/Sequestering agent 1.5 g/lR BR Yell 3GL 0.0814 %R Turq B1G 3.4556 %R BR Blue RSPL 3.14 %Salt 90 g/lSoda 5 g/lCaustic 1.75 g/l 48. Flow chart of turquoise color dyeing:Water taken at 60oC and PH = 6.5Raise the temperature to 80oCAnt creasing and Sequestering agent inject and run 10 min.Color + SV dosing for 50 min and run 10 min. SV inject and run for 10 min. Salt dosing for 10 min. then run 10 min.Again Salt dosing and run 10 minTemperature to 90oC (1oC/min) and run 20 minTemperature reduce to 80oCSoda dosing (70% progressive) for 40 min then run 10 minCaustic dosing (70% Progressive) for 40 min then run 10 minSample checkCurve for dyeing with turquoise color: 49. Washing of grey mlange fabric:Level inWetting agent at 60CBath DrainLevel inPH 5.5 and temperature 55oCEnzymeRun time 60minRise temperature to 80CMIR rinse for 15Level inSoftener 45Cx10'Bath DrainCold rinseAfter treatmentAfter treatment Process flow chart:Wash off at 95 C*15 (soaping agent 1-1.5 g/l)Overflow Rinse/MIR 50C x 15Acid 0.35 g/lSoftening treatment 45 C x 20 at PH - 4.5~5Rinse 15UnloadAfter treatment process may vary according to byer requirement like whether softener,anticreasing or enzyme should be applied or not. 50. Process Loss:Fabric types Loss of percentagePuma (CVC fleece) 14%S.Oliver (s/j) 13.5%G.Star (s/j) 12%M&S (s/j) 10%Espirit (s/j) 12%Lycra (S/J) 14%YID fabrics 7%Grey mlange( Puma & M&S)10%Grey mlange(G.Star)12%Common dyeing faults with their remedies:1. Uneven dyeing:Causes:- Uneven pretreatment (uneven scouring & bleaching).- Rapid addition of Dyes and Chemicals.- Improper color dosing.- Using dyes of high fixation property.- Uneven heat-setting in case of synthetic fibers.- Lack of control on dyeing m/cRemedies:- By ensuring even pretreatment.- By ensuring even heat-setting in case of synthetic fibers.- Proper dosing of dyes and chemicals.- Proper controlling of dyeing m/c2. Batch to Batch Shade variation:Causes:- Fluctuation of temperature.- Improper dosing time of dyes & chemicals.- Batch to batch weight variation of dyes and chemicals.- Dyes lot variation.- Improper reel speed, pump speed, liquor ratio.- Improper pretreatment.- Liquor ratio changed.- Different dyeing procedure for each batch. 51. Remedies:- Use standard dyes and chemicals.- Maintain the same liquor ratio.- Follow the standard pretreatment procedure.- Maintain the same dyeing cycle.- Identical dyeing procedure should be followed for the same depth of the Shade.- Make sure that the operators add the right bulk chemicals at the same time andtemperature in the process.- The pH, hardness and sodium carbonate content of supply water should check daily.2. Dye Spots:Causes:- Not proper agitation of dyestuffs.- Dye bath hardness.- Operators ignorance about mixing and dissolving the dyestuffs andchemicals.Remedies:- Proper agitation of dyestuffs.- Use adequate amount of sequestering agent to minimize hardness.Remarks:We have seen that in dyeing different production parameters like temperature, time, PH,M:L ratio etc. are strictly followed. Sometimes the original dyeing process may not be foundaccording to dyeing curve as they produce some complicated shade. One thing is clearlynoticeable that production manager and officers are committed to try their best for reducingproduction time. 52. Types of raw material:1. Yarn2. Fabric3. Dye stuff4. Chemical and auxiliariesList of Chemicals used in ViyellatexSerial No. Material Description Agent1 Acetic Acid Basic Chemicals2 Caustic Soda Basic Chemicals3 Glauber Salt Basic Chemicals4 Hydrogen Peroxide (H2O2) Basic Chemicals5 Soda Ash Basic Chemicals6 Hydrose(BASF) Reduction Clearer7 Hydrose(China) M/C Wash8 Feloson -NOF Detergent9 Rucozen WBL Detergent10 INVADINE-LUN Detergent11 Nearpon BW-LF Detergent12 LUBRIMAX-TL Anti-creasing13 Kappvon -CL Anti-creasing14 BREVIOL PAM-N Anti-creasing15 Kappazon -H-53 Stabilizer16 OXISTAB-C Stabilizer17 Invatex -PC Peroxide Killer18 Kappatex -PKS Peroxide Killer19 Rucorit WEZ Base Peroxide Killer20 Kilat Sequestering21 Securon-540 Sequestering22 GENENCOR BP NANO Enzyme23 Genencor BF 1600L Enzyme24 BIOPOLISH -B14 Enzyme25 ALBAFLOW-JET Antifoam26 PROFOAM-SLK Antifoam27 Sarabid -LDR Leveling28 Kappquest -A41 Leveling29 OPTAVON SV Leveling30 CROSCOLOR ADM Leveling31 Rucozen -NZA Soaping32 DEKOL-SN Soaping33 Cycalonan -X-C-W Soaping34 ULYSIN S Soaping35 Protnin -FCE-375 Fixing36 Sapamine -CWS Color Softener37 Nearsopht JS-100 Color Softener38 KAPPASOFT-BD Color Softener39 SAPAMINE-FPG White Softener40 Nearsopht -NI White Softener41 Rucofin -GWE Silicon Softener42 Rucofin -HHS Silicon Softener 53. 43 Syno White 4BK Optical Brightener44 Uvitex -CB Optical Brightener45 Uvitex -BAM Optical Brightener46 Uvitex -BBT Optical Brightener47 Uvitex -BHB Optical Brightener48 ALVATEX-AB-45 C.V.C Chemicals49 ALBATEX-AR C.V.C Chemicals50 UNIVADINE-DIF C.V.C Chemicals51 Repellan SRF Stain release chemicals52 Repellan XL-E Stain release chemicals53 Adalin NI Stain release chemicals54 Foryl LN Stain release chemicals55 Common Salt WTP Chemicals56 Cogulant ETP Chemicals57 Lime ETP Chemicals58 BLUE J OCEAN MAGIC R Washing Chemicals59 AVOLAN IS Washing ChemicalsDyes with Brand nameSerial No.BEZEMA1 Bezactive Yellow S-3R2 Bezaktive Red -S2B3 Bezaktive Red -S3BHUNTSMAN4 Cibacrone -Blue -FNR5 Cibacrone Yellow -F-4G6 Cibacrone Yellow -FN-2R7 NOVACRON BRILL BLUE H-GR8 NOVACRON BRILL. RED FN-3GL9 NOVACRON SCARLET FN-6G10 Terasil Black -WNS11 Terasil Navy -WRS12 Terasil Red -W-4BS13 Terasil Yellow -W4G14 TERASIL BLACK -SRLJIHUA15 Reactive Starfix Black-WM16 Reactive Starfix Red -3-BFN17 Reactive Starfix Red -EP18 REACTIVE STARFIX BLACK ED HGDYSTER19 Dianix Yellow -SEG20 Dianix Sport Red-SF21 DIANIX BRILL RED SF22 Remazol Blue-RGB 54. 23 Remazol Navy Blue-RGB24 Remazol Brill Red -F-3B25 Remazol Deep Black -RGB26 Remazol Red -RR27 Remazol Red-RGB28 Remazol Ultra Carmine -RGB29 Remazol Yellow -RRIMPOCOLOUE30 Imcozin Brill. Blue -VR Special31 Imcozin Golden Yellow -V-RNL32 Imcozin Red -E-3BF33 Imcozin Turquise -VG34 Imcozin Brill. Yellow -V-4GLSUNFIX35 Sunfix Red -MF-3BD36 Sunfix Red-SPD37 Sunfix Yellow -SPD38 Sunfix Navy Blue -MF-D39 Sunfix Navy Blue -SBF 55. FinishingTextile finishing, in a restricted sense, is the term used for a series of processes to which allbleached, dyed, printed & certain greige fabrics are subjected before they are put to market.Its one of the most important operations in knit processing.Objectives of Finishing:-Improving the appearance, luster, whiteness etc.-Improving the feel, this depends on the handle of the material & its softness, suppleness,fullness etc.-Wearing qualities, non- soiling, anticrease, antishrink comfort etc.-Special properties required for particular uses like water -proofing flame-proofing etc.-Covering of the faults in the original cloth.-Increasing the weight of the cloth.Effects of Finishing:-Easy care.-Crease recovery.-Dimensional stability.-Good abrasion resistance.-Improved tear strength.-Good sew ability.- Soft or stiff handle.-Shine or luster.Layout of Finishing Section: 56. Types of Finishing: Mechanical Finishing (Used to control dimension to improve appearance & handle) Chemical Finishing (Used to make glossy protection. To improve performance orserviceability)Finishing ProcessKnit fabrics require finishing process after dyeing. During dyeing all knit fabrics are dyed intubular form. According to buyers requirement dyed fabrics are finished in either tubularform or Open-width form.Depending on which Finishing sections are separated into two sections OPEN & TUBE section.1. Tubular finish:DewateringDryerTube Compactor2. Open finish:SlittingStenterOpen Compactor3. Special Finish (Raising & Sueding):SlittingStenterRaising/SuedingStenterCompactingNo. of Machines of finishing section:Name of the m/c No. of the m/cDewatering 2Slitting 2Dryer 2Open compactor 2Tube compactor 2Rasing m/c 3Sueding m/c 1 57. 1. Dewatering MachineMachine Specification:Brand - Heliot InternationalModel EXP 226Origin FranceCapacity 3 tones/shiftFunction of Dewatering m/c:- Removal of excess water (70-75%)- Removal of residual dirt- De-twisting of the rope fabric- Make the fabric Tubular from Rope form- Improve the hand feel of the fabric by usingsoftenerControlling points:- Width control (can be increased up to 3)- Pressure variation according to GSM(higher GSM-3-3.5bar, Lower GSM-2-2.5bar)- Fabric speed - 15m/minChecking points: Hand feel Color spot Softener spotFabric Path of Dewatering machine 58. 2. Slitting machine:Fabric path of slitting machineParameter:- Padder pressure (1-6 bar)- Fabric speed (200 m/min)- Maximum fabric width 86-88Checking points:- Needle mark- Dirty spotPower consumption: Voltage: 400V Frequency: 50Hz Maximum power: 24kwattMachine Specification:Brand - CorinoModel - Strada Monticell 0.231Origin - ItalyYear - 2005Capacity 3 tones/shiftVoltage 400VFrequency 50HzFunction:- Slit the fabric to make it into open form- Removal of excess amount of water- De-twisting of the tube fabric 59. Dryer Machine:Two types of dryer machine:o Heliot dryer for drying only tube fabrico Santex AG dryer for drying both tube and open fabricHeliot Dryer:SpecificationBrand Heliot internationalModel D700 HWTNo of heating chamber 3No of burner 3No of nozzle - 35Capacity 8 tons/dayOrigin FranceFabric path of Heliot Dryer 60. Function: To dry the fabric To control the shrinkageControlling points: Overfeed Temperature (Maximum-1700C, Min- 900C) Fabric speed Maximum 30m/minChecking Points: Shade check Fabric widthSantex DryerFabric path of Santex AG dryerSpecification:Brand: Santex AGType: SantashinkYear: 2008No of chamber: 5Capacity: 12 tones/dayOrigin: SwitzerlandFunction:- To dry the fabric- To control fabric dia- To control Fabric shrinkage- To control the fabric GSM(can be increased 10-15 GSM)- To apply special chemicalfinish 61. Controlling points: Overfeed (0 50%) Temperature (Maximum 1800C) Vibration 800 Fabric speed (Maximum 80m/min) Fabric width (open fabricChecking Points: Shade check Width check GSM checkTemperature: White/light shade: 100-120`C Medium shade; 110-130`C Dark shade: 140-160`CStenter MachineTwo types of Stenter machine:1. Bruckner Stenter machine2. Sun Super Stenter machineBruckner Stenter machine:Specification:Brand name: BRUCKNERType/model no: 72276-0463Country: GermanyTotal no of chamber: 5Maximum temp.: 2500CSteam pressure: max. 2 barAir pressure: max. 10 barCapacity: 3 tones/shiftMain parts of the machine:i) Feed zone- Centering deviceii) Chemical padding zone- Squeezing roller- Chemical trayiii) Bowing control zone- Bowing roller (rubber roller, no of roller -2)- Sensor (no of sensor -6)- Uncurling rolleriv) Chain entry zone- Uncurling device (both side of the chain entry) 62. - Sensor (both side of the chain entry)- Brush roller (for attaching the fabric with the pin of the chain, no of brush roller-4)- Selvedge gumming device with gum box under the chain entryv) Drying zone- Gas rotamatic burner (10)vi) Cooling zonevii) Delivery zoneFunction: Drying GSM control Width control Shrinkage control Decrease spirality Decrease Bowing effect Heat setting for cotton lycra fabricControlling points:- Overfeed (45-60%)- Temperature (max 2500C)- Fabric Speed (18-28m/min)- Padder pressure (1.5 2 bar)Checking points: Shade GSM Width Faults (Uneven, Color spot, Shrinkage, Hole, Needle mark etc.)Finishing parameters for different types of fabrics in BRUCKNER machine:Fabric type GSM Dia Temperature Overfeed PadderpressureSpeed BlowerRPMs/j 115-150 2''plus 110-140C 45-55% 2 bar 20-25 60-70s/j 160-220 2''plus 120-170C 45-50% 2.5 bar 18-23 65-75L.S/J 160-220 4''plus 130-160C 60% 2 bar 18-23 60-70L.S/J 200-250 4''plus 140-160C 60% 2 bar 12-20 65-75Pique 160-250 3''plus 130-160C 50-55% 1.5-2bar 20-25 70-80Fleece/terry 260-300 4"plus 140-170C 50-55% 2 bar 20-25 70-801*1rib 160-220 2"plus 130-160C 50% 2bar 24-28 70-802*2rib 190-220 2"plus 140-160C 50% 2 bar 20-25 60-70Interlock 190-220 3"plus 130-160C 50% 2 bar 20-25 70-80 63. Sunsuper Stenter MachineSpecification:Brand name: SUN SUPER.Country: KOREA.Total no of chamber: 8Capacity: 4 tones/shiftSpeed: Max. 110m/minTemperature: Max 2200CSteam pressure: 2 barAir pressure: 10 barFunction: To dry the fabric. Heat-set the synthetic fiber fabric. Controlling the width of fabric or maintain dimensional stability. Controlling the GSM of fabric. Skew ness & Bowing controlling of stripe fabric. Spirality & Twisting control. Fabric hand-feel modification-like-Softening or Hardening. Shade control. Gumming & Cutting.Controlling Points: Overfeed (0 50%) Temperature Speed Padder pressureChecking Points: Shade Width GSM FaultsFinishing parameters for different types of fabrics in Sunsuper stenter:Fabric type GSM Dia Temperature Overfeed PadderpressureSpeed BlowerRPMs/j 115-150 2''plus 110-140C 40-45% 2 bar 30-35 1100-1300s/j 160-220 2''plus 120-170C 40-45% 2.5 bar 25-30 1200-1400L.s/j 160-220 4'plus 130-160C 50% 2 bar 25-30 1200-1400L.S/J 200-250 4'plus 140-160C 50% 2 bar 24-28 1200-1400 64. Utility for stenter machines: Gas Electricity Compressed air.Compacting machine:Two types of compacting machines are used in Viyellatex-1. Open compacting machine2. Tube compacting machine1. Brand: FERRARO 2. Brand: HeliotType/model: COMPTEX-RE 2800 Overfeed: 50-60%Country: ITALY Temperature: 90-1300CYear: 2006 Teflon pressure: 16-18 PSICapacity: 3.5 tons/shift Origin: FranceFunction: Fabric compaction Make glossy, luster effect To control the shrinkage To maintain proper width and GSMControlling points: Overfeed Temperature SpeedPique 160-200 3'plus 130-160C 40-45% 1.5-2bar 25-30 1200-1400Fleece/terry 260-300 4"plus 140-170C 40-45% 2 bar 20-25 1300-14001*1rib 160-220 2"plus 130-160C 45% 2bar 24-28 1300-14002*2rib 190-220 2"plus 140-160C 45% 2 bar 20-25 1200-1400Interlock 190-220 3"plus 130-160C 50% 2 bar 20-25 1200-1400 65. Checking Points: Fabric Diameter GSM Shrinkage Fabric faultsMain parts of the machine:1. Heating chamber2. Blower (2, one at the entry chain zone for uncurling and another at the entry ofcompacting zone)3. Synthetic blanket as a conveyor,4. Folder5. Exhaust fan6. Unpinning cylinder7. Belt cylinder8. Uncurling device at entry of compacting zone.9. sensorFinishing parameters for different types of fabrics in compactor (Ferraro, open widthcompactor):Fabric type Color Speed Overfeed Temperature BlanketpressureTeflonpressures/j White color 15-18 25-30 90-100C 1.5-2(bar) 33(P.S.I)L.s/j White color12-16 12-16 90-100C 1.5-2(bar) 33(P.S.I)Pique White color15-18 30-35 100-110C 1.5-2(bar) 33(P.S.I)Fleece/terry White color15-20 25-30 100-110C 1.5-2(bar) 33(P.S.I)1*1 rib White color15-20 20-30 110-120C 1.5-2(bar) 33(P.S.I)2*2 rib White color12-15 25-30 100-110C 1.5-2(bar) 33(P.S.I)Interlock White color12-16 Full overfeed100-110C 1.5-2(bar) 33(P.S.I)Tube compactor 66. Specification: Brand name: HELIOT INTERNATIONAL Model: HC99PI Company: France. Capacity: 3 tones/shiftFunction: To control the shrinkage To maintain proper width of fabric To control fabric GSMControlling Points: Overfeed Temperature Fabric SpeedSpecial Finishing machine:1. Sueding machineSpecification: Brand name: Lafer SPA Type/model no: GSI106 Company: Italy Year: 2002 Fabric speed: 110 m/minFunction: To make the fabric smooth(Face side of the fabric) To increase the handle property Improve heat insulation properties.Controlling Points: Drum speed Fabric tension Plaiter tensionFabric path of sueding machineTaker inFront Drag RollerDrumPlaiterDeliveryFeedRear Drag RollerChecking points: Fabric GSM Shrinkage Fabric diameter Crease markUtility for Compacting machine: Steam Electricity Compressed Air 67. Checking Points: Hole Improper Sueding Line mark Quality of Sueding2. Raising machine:Specification: Brand name: Lafer SPA Type/model no: GRI 224A Country: Italy Year: 2003 Capacity: 3.5 tones/shift Fabric speed: 90rpmFunction: To produce pile on fabric surface To increase hand feel of the fabric To make the fabric soft Increase the warmth of the fabric.Fabric path of raising machineInspection in Finishing SectionSteps of Inspection:1st step- Shade Check2nd step- Running Shade Check3rd Step- Dia Check4th Step- Faults & G.S.M CheckControlling Points: Pile & Counter pile speed Drum speed Fabric tension Plaiter tensionChecking Points: Hole Uneven raised Line mark Quality of raising 68. Measurement of Fabric Faults:Four Point System:Defect Length Assigned Point0-3 1 point3.1-6 2 point6.1-9 3 point>9.1 4 pointCalculation:Average points/100 yds. = total points /total inspected yds. * 100Faults appeared in finishingDefects SourceHole KnittingOil Stain KnittingFly Yarn KnittingBarrie Mark KnittingChemical Stain DyeingDye Stain DyeingPatches DyeingUneven Shade DyeingCrease Mark Dyeing + KnittingNeps Fiber ProblemYarn Contamination SpinningBowing FinishingCrumple Mark Finishing 69. Working procedure of laboratory:Sample in (Fabrics)Check & note the Lot no, Style no, Item no & CollarSample PreparationRun the testPhysical test Wet labColor Fastness to washBursting strengthPilling Color Fastness to washingCrockingEvaluate the sample Pre-production Sample Final sampleReport Making Test TestPrepared the report prepared the reportPass FailDeliver Refinish Pass Fail Pass FailNeed to test again Go for the final RefinishNeed to test againDimensional Stability.Prepare the sampleWash the sample according to buyer method.Tumble dryKeep the sample flat in the conditioned temperatureAt least four hours before, after measurement.Measure the samplePrepared the reportPass FailReady to delivery RefinishNeed to test again 70. Machines used in Laboratory:1. Digital button testerImada, Japan2. Apollo light & weatherJames H.heal & co. Ltd. Halifax, England.3. IncubatorTest name: Color fastness to water, sea water, perspiration &phenolic yellowing testTest method: ISO 105-E01, ISO 105-EO2, ISO 105-E04 etc.James H.Heal & Co ltd. Halifax, England.4. Rubbing & Crocking testerHealinkJames H.Heal5. Spray rating testerJames H.Heal & Co ltd.6. Pilling & Snagging testerM/c name: Orbitor pilling & snagging testerTest name: Pilling resistance testTest method: BSENISO 12945-1, B55811James H.Heal & Co ltd.7. TruburstBrusting strength testerJames H.Heal & Co ltd.8. ImpulseRandom tumble pilling testerJames H.Heal & Co ltd.9. Matendel abrasion testerJames H.Heal & Co ltd.10. ElmatearDigital tear tester (woven)James H.Heal & Co ltd.11. Fastness tester (color fastness to wash)Graywash for 40C12.Test name:Colour fastness to washing, dry cleaningM/C name: Rota washTest method: ISO105-C06,ISO 105-D0213. Washing machineHealinkJames H.Heal & Co ltd.Fig: Apollo Light & WeatherFig: Rubbing & crocking tester 71. 14. Lap dyeing m/cM/C name: Ahiba Nuance lab dyeing m/cJames H.Heal & Co ltd.15. Perspiration testerJames H.Heal & Co ltd.16. Digital PH tester17. Lab rotator18. RotawashTest name: C/F to washing dry cleaningTest method: ISO 105-C06.ISO 105-DO2Quality Assurance System:The quality assurance department is assigned to maintain consistency for uniform quality of thematerial in process & various stages of its manufacturing.Objects of quality control: Research Selection of raw material process control Process development Product testing Specification testQuality Control system mainly two types:1. Online QC2. Offline QC1. Online QCOnline quality control comprises with the raw material quality control and the process control.Raw material control:As the quality of product depends on the raw materials quality so we must provide the bestquality raw material with an economical consideration. The fabric must be fault-free, withproper absorbency, whiteness as per requirement of the subsequent process. The Greyinspection report gives the condition of the raw fabric.Process control:The method chosen for the process must be provided with the necessary accurate parameters.Here the specific gravity, water level, residual hydrogen per oxide etc. at each stage is checked.Laboratory:Lab is the important part of a textile industry. Higher precision in a trial can aid easily to achievethe goal of the organization. Before bulk production a sample for the approval from industry issent to the buyer. As per the requirement of the buyer the shade is prepared in a labconsidering the economic aspects. 72. Lab line:1. Standard sample: It is obtained from buyer. The sample is measured by the CCM toget the recipe.2. Lab trial: Getting the recipe the lab officer produce lab trial and match with standardaccording to buyer requirement. Lab trial is made by the AHIBA dyeing machine. There aresome programs for dyeing. The programs will be described later.2. Offline QCOff-line tests: All the Offline tests for finished fabrics can be grouped as follows:A. Physical testsB. Chemical testsPhysical Tests: GSM test Shrinkage test Spirality test Tensile strength Abrasion resistance Pilling resistance Button Strength Testing Crease resistance Dimensional stability Bursting strength testFabric Inspection:The fabric inspection is done for both grey and finished fabric.1. Grey Fabric Inspection:Grey fabric inspection is performed according to 4-point system.2. Finished Fabric Inspection:4 point numbering system is followed for finished fabric inspection. Defects found in thefinal inspection:1. Uneven shade2. Oil spot3. Neps4. Crease mark5. Machine Stoppage mark6. Listing7. Line mark8. Pick missing9. Double yarn10. Dead cotton11. Bowing12. Fly yarn contaminationChemical Tests: Color Fastness to washing. Color Fastness to light. Color Fastness to heat. Color Fastness to Chlorinatedwater. Color Fastness to waterspotting. Color Fastness to perspiration. Color Fastness to Sea-water. Fiber analysis. PH test. Spray test (water repellency). 73. Procedure of the Different Tests:Physical test:1. Measuring the Dimensional Stability (Shrinkage & Spirality):Sample: Two pieces of 50 cm 50 cm fabric is taken for test.Procedure:a. Conditioning: Put the sample in table for 4 hrs. for conditioning before startingtest.b. Cut the sample 50x50 cm & benchmark should be 35x35 cm. Stitch the sample (3sides) by over lock sewing machine.c. Put sample in washing machine and run according to buyers choice.d. Drying: All Buyers requirement is tumble Dry except ECHO SCOURING is flat dry.2. Pilling test:Procedure:Cut the fabric 12.5 x 12.5cm & balance mark should be 10cm by using template. Then sew thefabric so that it can be firmly fit in the tube molded polyurethane tubes. Then four tubes areplaced in a box & start 602 rev/min for 5 hrs. or according to buyer requirement. Here mainlyused 3hrs (1100 cycle). Then assess the pilling by putting tested specimen on the viewingcabinet & compare with standard photographs3. PH Test:Procedure:Take 2gm sample fabrics and cut into small pieces. Then put it conical flax with 100cc water(M: L -1:50). Then shake it 15 min, then place it in a shaker m/c for 1 hour. Then check PH byPH meter.4. GSM TEST:Procedure:GSM is the most important factor. There is a GSM cutter. The sample is cut by the GSMcutter is weighted in the electronic balance. The reading (in gm.) from the balance is multipliedby 100 to get the value of GSM.5. Bursting Strength Test: Cut sample of 250x250 mm2 shape and see how much air pressure is needed to tearapart. 160-250 KPa is the allowable range for all.Chemical Test:1. Color Fastness to Wash Test:Required materials:1. Sample size 10cm x 4cm2. Multi-fiber of 10cm x 4cm3. ECE detergent (WOB) 4g/L4. Sodium Perborate (Na2BO3.H2O2.3H2O2-1g/L) - 1g/L5. Distilled water6. Normal cold water7. Steel balls 74. Required instrument:1. Rota Wash machine2. Scissors3. Stitch machineProcedure:1. Cut sample & multi-fiber at 10cm x 4cm and then stitch.2. 5g/l ECE detergent (WOB) & 1g/l ml Sodium per borate tetra hydrate is taken withthe sample.For Marks & Spencer, the solution is taken by the following formula:3. The sample is kept in 600C for 30 minutes in Rota Wash Machine. Weight thiscomposite specimen to calculate the volume of wash liquor required to give a 1:50liquor ratio. (i.e. 50 ml of liquor of 1gm of composite specimen.)4. Rinse the sample twice with cold water.5. Dry at 60C by hanging or by Flat iron pressing but temperature should not be morethan 150C.Report:Dry the specimen and the change of shade & degree of staining is measured by GreyScale & Staining Scale.2. Color Fastness to Perspiration Test:Test specimen: Sample fabric 50 mm 50 mm Multifiber fabric 50 mm 100 mm Cut the multifiber into two pieces Sandwich the test specimen between two pieces of multi-fiber.Testing Solution:1. Alkaline Solution:Histadine monohydro chloride monohydrate (C6H10ClN3O2.H2O) 5.00 g/LNaCl 5.00 g/LDi sodium hydrogen orthophosphate (Na2HPO4.2H2O) 2.5 g/LPH 8 (Adjust by 0.1 N NaOH)2. Acidic Solution:Histadine monohydro chloride monohydrate (C6H10ClN3O2.H2O) 5.00 g/LNaCl 5.00 g/LSodium di-hydrogen orthophosphate (NaH2PO4.2H2O) 2.5g/LPH 5.5 (Adjust by 0.1 N NaOH)Method:- The composite specimen is put in a petri dish (2 specimen of a sample).- Solution (Alkaline & Acidic) is taken in the two petri dishes. Here, M:L is taken 1:20.- Bubble is made out from the specimen by tapping.- The specimen is kept for 30 minutes.- A glass plate is placed on the composite specimen for 15 minutes at roomtemperature.- Excess solution is poured off.- Petri dish with composite specimen & glass plate is placed into the incubator at(372) 0C for 4 hours.- The specimen is dried (temp 600C) 75. Report:- Change of shade & degree of staining is measured by the Grey Scale & StainingScale.3. Color Fastness to Water Test:Test specimen: Sample fabric 50 mm 50 mm Multi fiber fabric 50 mm 100 mm Cut the multi-fiber into two piece Sandwich the test specimen between two pieces of multi-fiber.Testing Solution: Water is taken as requiredMethod:- The composite specimen is put in a petri dish (2 specimen of a sample).- Water is taken in the petri dish as required.- Bubble is made out from the specimen by tapping.- The specimen is kept for 30 minutes.- A glass plate is placed on the composite specimen for 15 minutes at roomtemperature.- Excess solution is poured off.- Petri dish with composite specimen & glass plate is placed into the incubator at(372) 0C for 4 hours.- The specimen is then dried (Temp 600C)Report:- Change of shade & degree of staining is measured by the Grey Scale & Staining Scale.4. Color the Fastness to Rubbing (Dry & Wet) Test:Sample:- Dyed fabric dimension of 15 cm 5 cm- White Test Cloth of 5 cm 5 cmProcedure:- White test cloth is put on to the grating and stag by steel wire.- The sample is run twenty times manually for ten seconds and the rubbing fastnessof the sample cloth and degree of staining is accessed.- For rubbing fastness (Wet), the rubbing cloth is placed in the water and socked andsqueeze. The wet rubbing cloth is placed on to the grating and stag with stainlesssteel wire and run ten times manually. Then assess the staining on to the rubbingcloth and the rubbing fastness of the sample cloth is accessed.Report:- Change of shade of the sample is measured with grey scale and degree of stainingof the white test cloth is measured by Staining Scale.Shrinkage Test Calculation:Shrinkage % = (Before wash After wash)/Before Wash*100 76. Spirality test calculation:S = (S1+S2) / 2Spirality = (S+S L)/100.Suppose,S1 = The right side distance of the specimen from the stitch line after wash.S2 = The left side distance of the specimen from the stitch line after wash.L = Length before washLab. Dip DyeingSample:- Weight 5gm.Procedure:- At first the recipe for the sample is calculated according to the sample weight.- The fabric is kept in the dyeing chamber.- Then the dyes, chemicals, salt & required amount of water is taken in that dyeingchamber by digital pipetting on the basis of stock solution.- Then the beaker is set into the lab. Dip. Dyeing machine for dyeing.- The program for dyeing is started for 20 min at 400C.- After 20 min soda is added by pipetting.- Then the dyeing program is set for 60 min at 600C for normal colour,80C forturquois colour,130C for PET.- When the dyeing time is finished the sample is taken out from the machine at 400C.- Then the sample is washed off. At first cold wash & then hot wash is done. After itsoaping is done.- Then the sample is dried and compared with standardDyeing Curve:600C60 400C20 Wash offSodaReport:Dry the specimen and the change of shade & degree of staining is measured by Grey Scale& Staining Scale.Finished fabric Inspection:The final product should pass against the norms given by the buyer. The following tests aredone---Shade check-GSM test-Width or diameter test-Shrinkage testDyes + Salt +Material+Water 77. -Crocking test-Pilling resistance test-Color fastness to test-Color fastness to perspiration-Dimensional stabilityQuality Standard:Viyellatex Ltd. maintains the ISO: 9002 standard in case of quality. Therefore, four pointsystem is followed to inspect the body & rib fabric. The defects found and points given againstare recorded in the inspection sheet. Following table shows the four point grading systemfollowed by inspection at Viyellatex Ltd.Four point grading systemSize of defects Penalty3 inches or less 1 pointOver 3 inch but not over 6 inch 2 pointOver 6 inch but not over 9 inch 3 pointOver 9 inch 4 pointFollowing table shows common body and rib faults and response by inspection section atViyellatex Ltd.:-Rejection criteria for body & ribsNo. Faults Response1. Needle mark Major needle line is rejected2. Stripe Major needle line is rejected3. Barre mark Rejected4. Contamination & flyApproved for color but for whiteshed 1 point is assigned5. Slubs 1 point6. Thick thin place Reject7. Birds eye 1 point8. Pin holes 1 point9. Wrong design Reject10. Mixed yarn Discuss with manager11. Sinker mark Major sinker mark is rejected.12. Missing yarn Use 4 point13. Holes Do14. Oil line/stain Do15. Chemical Do16. Dirt stain Do17. Crease line Do18. Uneven tension Discuss with manager 78. Following table shows common collar and cuff fault and response taken by inspectionsection at Viyellatex Ltd:-Rejection criteria for collar & cuffNo. Faults Response1. Wrong ply Reject2. Hole Reject3. Needle line Reject4. Slubs Reject5. Wrong design Reject6. Wrong tripping Reject7.Fly & contaminationAcceptable for color but not forwhite8. First round problem Reject9. Uneven tension Discuss with manager10. Missing yarn Reject11. Crease line Reject12. Rust line Reject13. Oil stripe Reject14. Thick-thin Reject15. Wrong tube RejectRemarks:Viyellatex have a well-equipped Testing laboratory for all kinds of Textile Testing. All of themare fully featured. The laboratory of Viyellatex is approved by world renowned buyers. Everykind of textile testing can be done with great accuracy and ease. 79. Production Capacity:Total line 80Total floor 8Total m/c 2600(approximately running)Production/day 60000 pcs/day (minimum) 2.5-3 Million pcs/monthInput Process Flow Chart:Inform The Corresponding Officer about completion of garments production TargetCorresponding Officer Forward a requisition form to the Planning DepartmentPlanning Department Gives a token Containing new style No.Showing the token collect fabric from Cutting & Accessories from StoreQuality CheckReady for SewingSewing process flow Chart:InputMeasurement CheckPrint & Embroidery CheckSewing StartedGet Full garments as outputGarments InspectionForward it to the Finishing Sectionist of M/cs:Machine Name Brand1-Needle lock Stitch(Auto thread Time)Juki, Brothers4-Thread Overlock with electric chain cutter Sunstar2/3 Needle Covering stitch Juki, Kansai1-Needle chain stitch(flatbed) Pegasus2-Needle Chain Stitch(flatbed) Joje2-Needle Piping(backtape) Kansai, Joje, Zusan2-Needle lock stitch Pegasus, KansaiVertical Trimmer SunstarMulti Needle Chain Stitch(PMD) Juki, Sunstar 80. Bartack Machine(Computerized) KansaiButtonhole(computerized) Juki, Sunstar, BrothersButton Sewing(Computerized) Juki, BrothersZigzag Machine(Computerized) Juki, BrothersSmocking Machine(12 & 33 Needle) Juki, BrothersShirring Machine(12 Needle elastic threads) KansaiPicoting Machine KansaiShading Stitch KansaiBlind Stitch(Overlock) KansaiRib Cutting Machine JojeHeat Transfer Machine Lee Way, LocaHot Fixing Machine SalliSnap Button Nyoto, Uzu, MaxFusing Machine(Ranning)Fusing Machine(R Hat)HashimaNeedle Used in different Machine & Its Sizes:Machine Name Needle Group SizePlain Machine DB x1 9,11,14Overlock Machine DC x1 9,11Flatlock Machine UY x128 9,112-Needle Chain Stitch Machine UY x128 142-Needle Lock stitch DP x5 9,11Button Hole(Two Needle) DP x5 11,14Button Stitch DP x7 14Kansai Special(PSF) UO x113 11Saddle Stitch CP x12 9,11Vertical Trimmer DB x1 9,11Smocking DV x57 9,11 81. Garment finishingProcess flowchart of garment finishing:Finishing input (style, color & size wise)IroningInspectionHang tagGet up changeFoldingPolyBar code (buyer wise sticker)Metal checkCartooningFinal inspection by buyerRemarks:We learned a lot from previous weeks visiting these sections of the garments. The Peoplesaround these sections are very helpful and willingly helped us in our work. This will help in ourfurther visit to other sections also. 82. Printing Section:There are two floors in the printing section. Here are the details about the Gothic Printing-Gothic PrintingDetails Quantity1. Tables 24 pcs2. Auto Screen Printingm/c4 pcs3.Conveyer Dryer 4 pcs4. Heat Press 3 pcsDevelopment flow chart:Order received from customerDifferent types of Printing: Pigment Print Rubber print High Density Print Plastisol Print Puff print Gliter print Rainbow print Pearl scent Radium print Foil print Jel print Metallic print Heat transfer (this system is not used) Flock Print (this system is not used) Discharge printDevelopmentSample makeDesignExpose roomSend to productionSample approval 83. Sequence of printing:Garment parts countScreen preparationPrinting paste preparationApplied garment part on the printing bed by (adhesive) gum in the marked portionPrinting the garment part by using screenDrying the printed portion by hard dryer applying hot air flowCuring the printed portion by passing through the conveyor dryer at 1600 - 1800 cInspection is done in qualify control departmentScreen Preparation:Mesh fabric tight with frameApplied chemical auto sol and potassium dichromate on the mesh & dried 8 min in air.Placed design paper under the mesh.Light passes through the design paper & mesh fabric for 3-4 min.Remove the colored TXR from the design area by water spraying. 84. Different types of print used in Viyellatex with their chemical name:1. Pigment print:Print perfect 226 EC (ready paste)+color basic=various types of shade are produced.Supplier name:DysinCHTBrand name: CHT SeikafixBrand name of CHT: Red KGC Red HBB Violate FB Orange RG Yellow 3GT Yellow RR Violate KB Black BDC Turquoise GT Green GTBrand name of seikafix:Seikafix redSeikafix yellowAnd so many colorDysin:PTSD (red,yellow,blue etc.) (Chemical group or brand name)SERICOL (red,yellow,blue etc.)(Chemical group or brand name)CHT:Printop (chemical group)Uniflux(chemical group)3. High density & Plasticol:Shade can be produced to mix ready color and basic. If the density of the plastisol is high thenit is called high density.4. Puff:Dysin chemical: SP37(for puff) White paste 101 Orient paste 251 Clear 5942. Rubber:Supplier name: Daysin White paste 101 Orient paste 251 Clear 594 OxalRubber paste of CHT: Balance 600(white paste) Laclf(matty type) Mc 230(glossy type) Oxal 85. CHT chemical: PPEXTS-2(for puff) Balance 600(white paste) Laclf(matty type) Mc 230(glossy type)5. Gliter print: Daysin paste BF733/ST60(paste) CHT pasteGD200 Gliter Oxal6. Rainbow: Dysin paste BF733/ST60(paste) CHT pasteGD200 Rainbow Oxal7. Pearlscent:Ready paste & basicPaste type:Asuchem (supplier) Asugold 80 (chemical type) Asusilver 70(chemical type)Printing faults:1. Print color shading 19. Print gap2. Print slarted 20. Print over3. Color spot 21. Wrong side4. Bleeding 22. Color wrong5. Print wrong 23. Size mistake6. Print burn 24. Bundle card mistake7. Air hole 25.Fabric hole8. Print bubble 26.Fabric shade9. Print missing 27.Crease mark10. Wrong place 28. Oil spot11. Not properly attached 29. Fabric burn12. Hand feels 30.Needle mark13. Migration 31. Cutting problem14. Dirty mark 32. Sticker wrong15. Uneven shade 33. Dye migration16. Shade variation 34.Yarn hole17. Print sticky 35. Yarn contamination18. Print not coverage 36. Fly yarn.8. Radium:Ready paste9. Foil print:Foil paste (k-40) Dysin10. Jel paste:CHT (supplier)GD200 (gel paste)11. Metallic:Same as pearlscent12. Discharge:Asuchem (supplier)Asurongent EB 86. Embroidery SectionEmbroidery machine specification:No. of machine: 08(1) 7 M/C of 12 heads(2) 1 M/C of 8 heads.Electronic multi-head automatic Embroidery M/CBrand: TajimaCountry: JapanModel: TFGn-920No. of head: 20No. of Needle per head: 9M/cs computer: screen touch monitorStitching types: Satin stitch Tatami stitch Eve design Run stitch Single run Double run Fly stitch Chain stitch Motif run stitchThread information:Threads brands Types Country Thread contain m/coneCoats BangladeshSilko (polyester 120/2)Rapose (polyester 120/2)Bangladesh3000Madera(polyester 135/2)Super twist 135/2Germany2500-3000Airplane(polyester 120/2)(polyester 120/2)Korea 5000Well (polyester 120/2) Bangladesh 3000Metallic thread (polyester 120/2)BangladeshJapanKorea3000-10000Pearl thread (polyester 120/2) Bangladesh 3000Basic thread Polyester 120/2 Bangladesh 5000Marathons Polyester 120/2 Korea 5000Embroidery faults: Stitch gap Bobbin outLining:o Soft liningo Discreet liningo Fusing liningo Hard lining Oil spot Miss thread Measurement up-down Needle hole 87. Washing 88. Washing Machine Layout:1 Cosmotex sample dryer (70 0C)2-5 Cosmotex dryer (70 0C)6-9 Automatic steamer & dryer (100 0C)(Brand: Greenmac International Pte. Ltd.Country: Singapore)10-11 Centrifugal extractors(Brand: Greenmac International Pte. Ltd.Country: Singapore)12,14 Cosmotex sample garments dyeing & washing m/c(Capacity: 20 Kg)13,15-21 Cosmotex garments dyeing & washing m/c(Capacity: 250 Kg)Entrance8 7 65 4 3 21Table13 15 14 16 17 18 19 20 2110911122Table 89. Washing flow chart:Garments from store houseCountQuality checkBatchWashingHydro extractorDryingQuality checkPackingDeliveryM/C brand and no of M/C1. No of washing m/c: 42. No of garments dyeing m/c: 4 Brand name: Cosmotex Origin: Spain3. Sample washing m/c: 2 Brand name :Cosmotex Origin: SpainTypes of wash: Normal garments wash Vintage wash Enzyme wash Acid wash Super softener wash Spray wash Dip dyeing wash4. Hydro extractor: 2 Brand :Green mac Origin : China5. Dryer: 8 4 Cosmotex 4 Green mac6. Sample dryer: 1 Brand name: CompotexRecipe:1. Normal garments wash:M:L : 1:10Felosan nof : 5g/lTemperature : 50-55CTime : 8 minSoftener : 1-2 g/l 90. 2. Vintage wash: Applies heavy stonewashing or a cellulose enzyme wash, with or without bleach. Gives an old and worn look.M : L :1:10Felosen nof : 0.5g/lSoda : 3-4 g/lCaustic : 0.5g/lTemperature: 60CTime : 35-40Acetic acid : 1g/lSoftener : 2g/l4. Acid wash:It is done by tumbling the garments with pumice stones presoaked in a solution of sodiumhypochlorite or potassium permanganate for localized bleaching resulting in a non-uniformsharp blue/white contrast.5. Super softener wash:Silicon: 8g/lSoftener: 2g/lOver dye: Dyeing over the fabric or jeans to add another tone of color. Also can be applied with spray gun or paintbrush for local coloring.A typical recipe of over dyeing method:Fabric weight 2 kgWater 16 liter 700C x5 minNOF (Wetting agent) 8 gm(After Normal wash)DBC (leveling agent) 8 gm 600C x5 minR.G. Yellow- RGB 0.368% 8 gmR.ul.Car-RGB 0.63% 12 gm 600C x (10+10) minR.Navy-RGB 1.48% 31 gmSalt 960 gm 600C x (10+10)Soda 256 gm(After normal wash)R (soaping agent) 1 g/l 16 gm 600C x5 minAcetic acid 1 g/l 16 gm Room temp. for 5 minE.C. (fixing agent) 1 g/l 16 gm 400C x5 min3. Enzyme washEnzyme : 0.5g/lFesoson nof : 0.5g/lPH : 4.5Time : 25-30Temperature: 55C 91. Problems occur in washing:Before wash: Dirty spot Dyeing/color spot. Needle damage. Fabric hole. Measurement problem. Shade variation. Printing problem.After wash: Measurement problem. Shrinkage problem. Color bleeding. Needle line. Spirality problemREMARKS:We have learned a lot of from this section of washing. The employers and employee helped usso much during our working. This will help further visit to other sections also. 92. Maintenance of machinery is a very essential mechanical effort for achieving smoothrunning of different machines. Machines, buildings and other service facilities are subjected todeterioration due to their use and expose to industrial conditions. Maintenance is a procedureby which we can maintain active functioning in operation according to the behavior and utilityof a particular element. In engineering, we use this terminology for maintaining smooth anduninterrupted performance of machines, tools and metallurgical characteristics in practical uses.Necessity of maintenance: To keep the downtime of machines to the minimum thuds to have control over theproduction program. To prolong the useful life of the factory plant and machine by retaining their acceptancelevel of accuracy of performance. To keep the factory plants, equipments, machine tools in an optimum workingcondition. To ensure specified accuracy to product and time schedule of delivery to customer. To keep the production cycle within the stipulated range. To modify the machine tools to meet the need for production.Major Maintenance points for different machines: Routes of different utilities like water, steam, gas, electricity, compressed air etc. Dyestuff & chemical dosing system. Drainage system of waste water, color & chemical. Driving arrangement of different machines. Power transmission to different machineries. Fabric guiding system through the machineries. Cleanliness of machine parts.Different types of Maintenance procedure:In Viyellatex, three types of maintenance procedure is performed 1. Routine/Schedule Maintenance.2. Preventive Maintenance.3. Breakdown Maintenance.1. Routine/Schedule Maintenance:After a particular period of operation, the machines are cleaned & reordered, that is routine orschedule maintenance. The maintenance department does it once in a month. Routine/Schedulemaintenance varies, time in time & also depends on situation according to types of machines,because maintenance is directly related to production. 93. Maintenance schedule for dyeing & finishing section S.N. Machine Schedule1 Dyeing m/c-1+sample-1 1 0 th day of the month2 Dyeing m/c-2+ dyeing m/c-9 + sample m/c-5 1 1 th day of the month3 Dyeing m/c-3+ dyeing m/c-10 1 2 th day of the month4 Dyeing m/c-4+sample-2+dyeing/c-15 1 3 th day of the month5 Dyeing m/c-5+sample-3 1 4 th day of the month6 Dyeing m/c-6+ dyeing m/c-11 1 5 th day of the month7 Dyeing m/c-7+ dyeing m/c -12+dyeing m/c-14 1 6 th day of the month8 Dyeing m/c-8+ dyeing m/c-13 1 7 th day of the month9 Open compacting m/c+tube -1 1 st &18th day of the month10 Open compacting m/c+tube -1 2 nd &19th day of the month11 Dewatering m/c-1&2 3 rd&20th day of the month12 Corino slitting m/c+Bianco slitting m/c 4 th & 21st day of the month13 Slitting m/c+sample dyeing m/c-4 5 th &22nd day of the month14 Sueding m/c+ sample dyeing m/c-5 6 th &23rd day of the month15 Raising m/c+ sample dyeing m/c-6 7 th & 24th day of the month16 Dryer m/c+sample dyeing m/c-7 8 th & 25th day of the month17 Santex dryer 9 th & 26th day of the month18 Stenter m/c(bruckner) F r i d a y e v e r y week19 Stenter m/c(sun super) Friday every weekMaintenance schedule for utility section:S.N. Machine Schedule1 Boiler la s t F r i d a y o f m onth2 Substation 1st Friday of month2. Preventive Maintenance:This type of maintenance is performed periodically (or continuously) prior to functional failure toachieve the desired level of safety and reliability for an item. These actions are performed toprevent or reduce consequences of failures.Maintenance schedule for dyeing & finishing section S.N. Machine Schedule1 Open compacting m/c-1+tube -1 1 st &19th day of the month2 Open compacting m/c+tube -1 2 nd &20th day of the month3 Dewatering m/c-1&2 3 rd&21th day of the month4 Slitting m/c 1&2 4 th &22nd day of the month5 Slitting m/c 03+sample dyeing m/c-4 5 th &23nd day of the month6 Sueding m/c+ sample dyeing m/c-5 6 th &24rd day of the month7 Raising m/c-1, 2, 3 7 th & 25th day of the month8 Dryer m/c-1+sample dyeing m/c-6 8 th & 26th day of the month 94. 9 Dryer m/c-2+sample dyeing m/c-7 9 th & 27th day of the month10 Dyeing m/c-1+sample-1 1 0 th day of the month12 Dy