MEDIA KIT

5 MAR – 31 JUL 2016

Front cover: (left to right) Gavin Brown, Indian snakes and ladders outfit 1985; Magg, Evening outfit c. 1974; Katie Pye, The party 1980; La Petite, Evening dress c. 1960; Toni Maticevski, Dali goddess evening dress 2007; Bright & Hitchcocks, Day dress 1865–70. National Gallery of Victoria, Melbourne. Photo: Virginia Dowzer and Bronwyn Kidd.

(opposite) Magg, Melbourne (fashion house); Zara Holt (designer), Evening outfit c. 1974. National Gallery of Victoria, Melbourne. Photo: Virginia Dowzer and Bronwyn Kidd.

Back cover: (left to right) Australia, Evening dress c. 1805; Flamingo Park, Wattle dress and hat 1978. National Gallery of Victoria, Melbourne. Photo: Virginia Dowzer and Bronwyn Kidd

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MEDIA CONTACTS

Marion Joseph Head of Media and Public Affairs 03 8620 2346 | 0427 147 999 marion.joseph@ngv.vic.gov.au

Tim Jones Publicist, Media and Public Affairs 03 8620 2497 | 0412 620 003 tim.jones@ngv.vic.gov.au

Elisabeth Alexander Coordinator, Media and Public Affairs 03 8620 2347 | 0439 348 357 elisabeth.alexander@ngv.vic.gov.au

Sally Giam Officer, Media and Public Affairs 03 8620 2345 | 0475 978 278 sally.giam@ngv.vic.gov.au

Alongside works by contemporary designers, such as Akira, Richard Nylon, Ellery and Toni Maticevski, the exhibition will showcase standout designs from the last 200 years including Australia’s earliest known surviving dress (c1805), a glamorous 1950s blue feathered ball gown by Collins Street salon La Petite, and a dress from Collette Dinnigan’s ground-breaking 1995 Paris runway show, where she became the first Australian designer invited to show on-schedule at Paris Fashion Week.

‘Australian fashion design has been informed by its geography, resources, migration and its response to international trends,’ said Tony Ellwood, Director, NGV. ‘The NGV is proud to showcase the ways in which designers have responded to these conditions with ingenuity, humour and irony in dialogue with the wider world.’

A highlight is a newly commissioned work by Dion Lee that will signpost the future of Australian fashion and demonstrate the designer’s forward-thinking approach and innovative design practice. Standing at over four metres tall and covered

in Swarovski crystals, this never-before-seen work showcases Dion Lee’s conceptual eye and experimentation with design.

The exhibition will also feature a show-stopping catwalk of garments that celebrate the vibrant output of the Fashion Design Council (FDC), which was established in 1983 to nurture independent Australian fashion design. Well- known designers associated with this movement include Jenny Bannister, Sara Thorn and Kara Baker. Iconic and milestone moments of Australian fashion history will be displayed from early dressmakers and tailors who adapted European fashions to the Australian lifestyle, class system and climate during the nineteenth century. The exhibition will also focus on the output of the nation’s first department stores, such as Buckley & Nunn, David Jones, Farmer and Co. and Bright & Hitchcocks, which were critical in disseminating fashionable dress during this time.

The colour and experimentation of the 1960s will be celebrated through a focused display

featuring mini-dresses, including designs by Prue Acton, who was the first female Australian designer to show in New York. Remarkable knitwear from Jenny Kee and colourful designs by Linda Jackson produced under the Flamingo Park label in the 1970s will also have a dedicated display, illuminating the designer’s landmark Australiana-inspired garments.

The richness of contemporary fashion will also be on show in the work of Australian designers MaterialByProduct, Romance Was Born, Di$count Univer$e, Pageant, PAM, Alpha60, Karla Spetic, Lui Hon and Strateas Carlucci.

The NGV has collected fashion and textiles for more than 120 years and boasts an outstanding collection of incredible breadth, quality and craftsmanship. Since the 1970s the NGV has organised close to 50 fashion and textile exhibitions, with 200 Years of Australian Fashion the largest survey of Australian fashion to date.

The NGV will present 200 Years of Australian Fashion as part of the Cultural Program of the Virgin Australia Melbourne Fashion Festival, which celebrates its 20th Festival in 2016.

‘The Festival is proud to feature 200 Years of Australian Fashion as part of our Cultural Program. This NGV exhibition reaffirms the influence Australian designers have and celebrates our nation’s creative achievements over 200 years,’ said Virgin Australia Melbourne Fashion Festival CEO Graeme Lewsey.

The National Gallery of Victoria unveils the first and most comprehensive major survey of Australian fashion to date, 200 Years of Australian Fashion. The exhibition will present more than 120 works from over 90 designers and celebrate Australia’s unique voice in the fashion industry.

The Ian Potter Centre: NGV Australia at Federation Square 5 March – 31 July 2016, exhibition fees apply

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MEDIA RELEASE

(left to right) Plain Jane, Melbourne (fashion house); Gavin Brown (designer) Indian snakes and ladders outfit 1985. National Gallery of Victoria, Melbourne. Photo: Virginia Dowzer and Bronwyn Kidd; Katie Pye Studio, Sydney (fashion house); Katie Pye (designer) The party 1980. National Gallery of Victoria, Melbourne. Photo: Virginia Dowzer and Bronwyn Kidd.

EXHIBITION THEMES AND CONCEPTS

COLONIALColonial showcases the pragmatism and ingenuity of early Australian designs that adapted to Australia’s harsh climate and includes the earliest examples of surviving dress in Australia from the colonial period to the 1850s.

THE DEPARTMENT STORE In the late 1800s, the Department Store was representative of the emerging metropolis with grand emporiums, such as Buckey & Nunn and Farmer & Co., offering custom made and imported gowns in evocative palaces of consumption.

DRESSMAKERS AND TAILORS Dressmakers and Tailors depicts the crafts of dressmaking and tailoring and the emergence of the individual designer label, such as Miss Scott and Doak & Beattie, who came to the fore in the late 1870s.

THE SALONThe Salon reflects the grandeur of the Paris-style salon where mid-century gowns were paraded and purchased, particularly along the ‘Paris end’ of Collins Street. This section showcases the work of talent Australian couturiers as well as the appetite for glamour in the 1950s.

MINIS AND MAXISMinis and Maxis marks the various cultural movements of the 1960s through the advent of the mini-skirt, followed by a return to full length hems in bold patterns in the 1970s.

FLAMINGO PARKFlamingo Park presents a celebration of Australian motifs, such as native flora and fauna, through the landmark work of Jenny Kee and Linda Jackson pioneered in the 1970s.

ART CLOTHESArt Clothes considers the advent of contemporary Australian fashion in the art gallery from 1980 with particular focus on Art Gallery of NSW which saw contemporary Australian designers, such as Jenny Bannister and Ruby Brilliant, presented in a museum and art gallery context for the first time.

FASHION DESIGN COUNCILFashion Design Council captures the energy, excitement and impact of the creative collaboration of independent designers through parades, exhibitions and publications from 1984 to 1993. Well-known designers associated with this movement include Martin Grant, Sara Thorn, Gavin Brown and Kara Baker.

FASHION WEEKSFashion Weeks presents Australian fashion on the world stage. From the invitation of Australian designers to present in Paris, to the advent of Australian Fashion week and the Melbourne Fashion Festival in the 1990s, this section showcases the ways in which these important organisations celebrate, support and promote Australian fashion.

CONTEMPORARY FASHIONContemporary Fashion presents the individual signatures of some of Australia’s foremost designers, as well as a world-premiere commission by Dion Lee comprising a four metre-tall gown encrusted with Swarovski crystals. Designers showcased in this section include Ellery, Toni Maticevski, Pageant, Romance Was Born and Di$count Univer$e.

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Athol Shmith No title (Fashion illustration. Model Ann Chapman) c. 1960. National Gallery of Victoria, Melbourne. © The Estate of Athol Shmith/Licensed by Kalli Rolfe Contemporary Art.

PUBLIC PROGRAMS

WHAT IS AUSTRALIAN FASHION? SYMPOSIUMSat 5 March, 10am – 3.30pm Beyond the clichés, what is Australian fashion? If such an identity exists, what separates Australian designers and dress from the rest of the world? Hear from leading Australian fashion designers, curators and commentators as they share current issues and developments in the market place and global contexts. Speakers Sophie Tedmanson, Deputy Editor and Features Director, Vogue Australia; Graeme Lewsey, CEO, Virgin Australia Melbourne Fashion Festival; Margaret Maynard, Honorary Research Associate Professor, University of Queensland;

Cami James and Nadia Napreychikov, fashion designers, Di$count; Wendy Syfret, Editor, i-D Australia; Annette Cooper, author; Jenny Kee, fashion designer; Kara Baker, fashion designer; John Flower, Director, Hothouse Media & Events; Kate Rooney, Centre Manager at Emporium Melbourne; Katie Somerville, Senior Curator, Fashion and Textiles, NGV; Danielle Whitfield, Curator, Fashion and Textiles, NGV; Paola Di Trocchio, Curator, Fashion and Textiles, NGV Cost $32 M / $40 A / $35 C (includes exhibition admission)Venue Theatre, NGV Australia

DESIGN TALKSTake a closer look at the key themes in 200 Years of Australian Fashion with a range of talks and conversations led by curators, designers and fashion historians. Learn about the important pieces and people that have made Australian fashion what it is today.• Sun 6 Mar, 11am: Australian Fashion Now Speakers Danielle Whitfield and Paola Di Trocchio, Curators, Fashion and Textiles

• Sun 6 Mar, 2pm: Flamingo Park Frock Salon Speakers Linda Jackson and Jenny Kee, fashion designers

• Sat 2 Apr, 11am: What We Wore When – Australia’s Changing Fashion Identity

Speaker Karen Webster, Head of Strategy and Development, Whitehouse Institute of Design

• Thu 14 Apr, 2pm: Captivating Style – Fashion, Photography and Glamour in 1950s Australia

Speaker Katie Somerville, Senior Curator, Fashion and Textiles

Cost Exhibition admissionVenue Exhibition space

MEET THE DESIGNERSSun 6 Mar, 3pm As part of 200 Years of Australia Fashion the NGV design store has collaborated with Melbourne fashion label Pageant to offer an exclusive capsule range. Amanda Cumming and Kate Reynolds established their independent fashion label Pageant in 2010. Drawing inspiration from diverse fields and praised for their innovation and ingenuity, Pageant collections advocate an alternate vision of femininity that is fresh, fierce and current. Join Pageant designers Amanda Cumming and Kate Reynolds as they give a short talk about their practice in the NGV design store. Following the talk Amanda and Kate will meet and greet the audience.Speakers Amanda Cumming and Kate Reynolds, Pageant and Danielle Whitfield, Curator, Fashion and Textiles, NGVCost FreeVenue NGV design store, NGV Australia

FASHION ILLUSTRATION: SKETCHING AUSTRALIAN STYLESat 7 May and 9 Jul, 2pm – 4pmEvery garment begins with putting pen to paper. Fashion illustration is crucial to the design process and also serves as a form of art. Learn about the techniques and skills of fashion illustration in a designer-led drawing session in the heart of the exhibition space. Facilitator Angie Réhe, designer and illustratorCost Exhibition admissionVenue Exhibition space

UNDRESSING MELBOURNE: WALKING THROUGH THE FASHION CAPITALSun 22 May, 10am – 12pmExplore Melbourne’s fashionable side as you are led on a walking tour of some of the city’s great fashion labels, as featured in 200 Years of Australian Fashion. See designers at work and learn about their practice as you make your way down Collins St, visiting historic sites along the way. Finish off at NGV Australia for an opportunity to view the exhibition. Facilitator Paola Di Trocchio, Curator, Fashion and Textiles Cost $28 M / $35 A / $32 C (includes exhibition admission)

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(opposite) Jenny Kee and Linda Jackson wearing Tutti Frutti and Trixie Dixie dresses 1975. Photo: Ann Noon.

(right) La Petite, Melbourne (fashion house); Pat Rogers (designer); Neil Rogers (designer), Evening dress 1960. National Gallery of Victoria, Melbourne. Photo: Virginia Dowzer and Bronwyn Kidd.

EXHIBITION CATALOGUE

200 Years of Australian Fashion celebrates the work of more than ninety local designers and makers. This authoritative and beautiful volume considers what and who has defined the Australian fashion industry; from the dressmakers of colonial Sydney and mid-century salons of Melbourne’s Collins Street to the inner-city studios of contemporary designers.

Australian fashion designers have responded to the country’s geography and resources as well as to migration and international trends. Fashion writer Marion Hume said, ‘At the heart of the fashion fairytale is the belief that its lead characters can come from anywhere’. 200 Years of Australian Fashion examines what Australian fashion has been and can be.

200 Years of Australian Fashion exhibition catalogue edited by exhibition curator Paola Di Trocchio.

LIMITED EDITION EXHIBITION CATALOGUEThe NGV will produce the 200 Years of Australian Fashion exhibition catalogue in a limited edition. In an edition of 25, the soft cover catalogue will be presented in cloth bound box and will include a digitally printed silk scarf by Australian fashion designer Dion Lee.

Designed and made exclusively for the limited edition catalogue, the scarf design will reference Dion Lee’s commission for the NGV’s exhibition and collection.

The catalogue and scarf edition will feature a signed and numbered certificate by Dion Lee.

Price upon request.

Contributing WritersDr Nadia Buick is a fashion curator and author based in Brisbane. She is Co-Director of The Fashion Archives.

Associate Professor Margaret Maynard is an Honorary Consultant, in the School of Communication and the Arts, The University of Queensland.

Paola Di Trocchio, Curator, Fashion and Textiles.

Danielle Whitfield, Curator, Fashion and Textiles.

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(opposite) Romance Was Born, Sydney (fashion house); Anna Plunkett (designer); Luke Sales (designer), Rainbow tartan feather suit 2015. National Gallery of Victoria, Melbourne. Photo: Virginia Dowzer and Bronwyn Kidd.

(right) Bright & Hitchcocks, Geelong, Victoria (manufacturer and retailer), Day dress 1865–70. National Gallery of Victoria, Melbourne. Photo: Virginia Dowzer and Bronwyn Kidd.

MERCHANDISE

The NGV design store collaborates with leading local and international artists, designers and makers to offer unique contemporary products. Each of these collaborations reveals a purposeful and innovative approach to materials and making.

In conjunction with the exhibition 200 Years of Australian Fashion the NGV design store has collaborated with Melbourne fashion label Pageant to offer an exclusive capsule range.

NGV design store will also showcase its new collection range featuring the work Rainbow Gumleaves by Australian Fashion designer Linda Jackson, a curated selection of scarves and knits from Jenny Kee’s 2015 collection and accessories by Melbourne fashion label, Di$count Univer$e.

PAGEANTHaving previously worked for iconic labels such as Christopher Shannon, Christopher Kane and Perks and Mini (PAM), Amanda Cumming and Kate Reynolds established their independent fashion label Pageant in 2010. Drawing inspiration from diverse realms and praised for their innovation and ingenuity, Pageant collections advocate an alternate vision of femininity that is fresh, fierce and current. Their garments are forged from technically sophisticated fabrics, with aesthetic odes to sportswear.

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Amanda Cumming and Kate Reynolds from Pageant. Photo: Tom Ross.