Maximum Yield Australia/New Zealand July/Aug 2011

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+Grow Tent Guide (3 Easy Steps)

Fatter Plants Fast

Humidity and Your Grow Room

REd SPidER MiTES:

identification and Control

2 Maximum Yield | May/June 2011

http://www.hygrozyme.com/

3Maximum Yield | July/August 2011

FEATURES

DEPARTMENTS

july / aug 2011CONTENTS

4 From the Editor

4 Letters to the Editor

6 MaximumYield.com

8 Simon Says

10 MAX Facts

12 Product Spotlight

44 Retail Directory

46 Coming up in Sept/Oct

46 Do You Know?

42

14 Humidity, Vapour Pressure Deficit and the Transpiration Streamby Dr. Lynette Morgan

22 Grow Tents for the Constructionally Challengedby Gabriel Bronsztein

28 Advanced Aeroponicsby Joshua T. Serpa

30 Red Spider Mites: Identification and Control

32 Fungi’s Role in the Ecosystemby Luis Bartolo

38 How to Harvest and Store Lavender by Troy Marshall

42 Harvesting Living Waterby Michael Bloch

10

14

8

4 Maximum Yield | July/August 2011

FROM THEeditor jessica raymond

letters to the editor

Maximum Yield reserves the right to edit for brevity.

We want to hear from you!Write us at: Maximum Yield Publications Inc.2339A Delinea Place, Nanaimo, BC V9T 5L9or e-mail us at: [email protected]

Jessica Raymond, [email protected]

E-News Readers RespondE-News readers responded to the following question: What is your favourite pastime (outside of growing)? They were entered to win a copy of our special San Francisco Expo issue of Maxi-mum Yield USA.

Runners-upThanks for all your hard work and efforts involved to produce such an informative magazine. I particularly like the Simon Says column. It offers very useful suggestions. My favourite pastime these days is RVing in a 19 foot camper van. I am particularly looking forward to visiting some hydroponic stores in the area.RegardsTom Gray

Brewing beer! I just got into the hobby recently and it is so interesting to learn of all the different types of beer and the history of this great pastime.Shane Brooks

And the winner is…My favourite pastime, outside of growing, is hiking through the mountains near my home. I do short hikes, collecting pieces of nature—literally and through my android camera. I rescue wildflowers and baby trees/bushes and nurture them in my backyard. Then, I plant them in a community spot and in my own garden. Bad weather brings out my ad-diction to book stores and hardware stores, which of course inspires my gardening [adventures]. I’m hopeless!Laura Olney

And you could win too. Simply sign up to receive Maximum Yield’s E-Newsletter on maximumyield.com and enter our monthly draw to win.

Yellow and MellowIn the March/April 2011 issue of Maximum Yield, I was happy to see Matt LeBannister’s article on dealing with yellowing leaves. Yellow leaves are a recurring problem in my crops. I was wondering if a nitrogen deficiency could be the problem in yellowing bamboo stalks as well. In an older online article (maximumyield.com) from Therese Cressman (Growing Guide: Lucky Bamboo) she says yellow-ing leaves are a sign of too much light or too much fertilizer. She recommends removing the yellow leaves right away. I did but my bamboo continued to suffer. Any suggestions to help my bamboo are much appreciated.Ruth Alston

If the leaves on the lower part of the plant are the ones that are yellowing it is likely to be a nitrogen deficiency. With bamboo it could be caused by fluctuating pH levels. Using pH drops to check the water before it is replaced might do the trick. Bamboo is often grown in containers that cannot be drained. I would recommend replacing the growing container and medium to rid the root-zone of built up nutrients that cannot be flushed. Hope this helps.Maximum Yield Contributor: Matt LeBannister

Precious, living water is a theme that crops up often in discussions of gardening and particularly in discus-sions of hydroponics. Why? Because hydroponic crops get their food from this nutrient-rich drink. Hydroponic gardens are praised for their efficient use of the commodity versus conventional soil gardens, but that doesn’t mean as hydroponicists we shouldn’t try to use it as wisely as possible. This issue Joshua Serpa shares the value of aeroponics and how it pro-vides plants with just the right amount of water and nutrients they need to grow. In addition, Dr. Lynette Morgan explains the importance of humidity and

vapour pressure in your grow room. Along with lots of new products, a step-by-step guide on setting up a grow tent, and garden pest identification and control, you have your hands full with growing tips you won’t find anywhere else. Enjoy the read and make sure to tell me what you loved, and what you want more of by e-mailing [email protected] invite you to join us at one of our upcoming

North American Indoor Gardening Expos in either San Francisco, CA (July 16-17) or Long Beach, CA (October 22-23) or both. More informa-tion is available at www.indoorgardenexpo.com


AUSTRALIAN DISTRIBUTIONDome Garden Supply

FutchatecGrowth Technology

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I N D O O R G A R D E N I N G

VOLUME 9 – NUMBER 2 JULY/AUGUST 2011

Maximum Yield is published bi-monthly byMaximum Yield Publications Inc.

2339A Delinea Place, Nanaimo, BC V9T 5L9Phone: 250.729.2677; Fax 250.729.2687

No part of this magazine may be reproducedwithout permission from the publisher.

If undeliverable please return to the address above.

The views expressed by columnists are a personal opinion and do not necessarily reflect those of Maximum Yield or the Editor.

Publication Agreement Number 40739092

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Become a Maximum Yield contributor and have your articles read by 250,000 readers throughout USA, Canada, UK, Australia and New Zealand. Maximum Yield is the largest free-to-consumer indoor gardening magazine in the world. Every issue is available on maximumyield.com, which has thousands of unique visitors monthly.

Tell us what you think at [email protected]. We’d love to hear from you.

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PRESIDENT/PUBLISHER - Jim JessonGENERAL MANAGER - Don Moores

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ACCOUNTING - Tracy Greeno [email protected]

Dr. Lynette Morgan holds a B. Hort. Tech. degree and a PhD in hydroponic greenhouse production from Massey University, New Zealand. Lynette is a partner with SUNTEC International Hydroponic Consultants and has authored five hydroponic technical books. Visit www.suntec.co.nz/consultants.htm and www.suntec.co.nz/books.htm for more information.

Michael Bloch is the owner and editor of GreenLivingTips.com, an online resource powered by renewable energy. The site offers a wide variety of earth friendly tips, green guides, advice and environment-related news to help consumers and businesses reduce costs, consumption and environmental impact.

UpcoMiNg EvENtsReady, Set, Grow – It’s time for San Fran (SFIGE11)The event you’ve all been waiting for is finally here! You’re all invited to Maximum Yield’s 8th Annual San Francisco Indoor Gardening Expo, July 17 at the Fort Mason Center from noon to 5 p.m. If you can’t make it to this event, plan to attend our 2nd Annual Long Beach Expo October 23 and stay tuned to indoorgardenexpo.com for our 2012 Expo Tour (schedule to be posted soon).

got QUEstioNs? gEt ANswERs.Maximum Yield’s resident expert Simon Hart is available and ready to answer your modern gardening questions. E-mail [email protected] or fill out the Simon Says question form on maximumyield.com

LAtEst NEwsGo green, fertilize with mushrooms, scrutinize produce and embrace high-tech horticulture. Check out these fascinating facts and more of the latest industry news on maximumyield.com

coNNEct with MAxiMUM YiELdwww.maximumyield.comwww.facebook.com/MaximumYieldwww.indoorgardeningexpo.comTwitter.com/Max_Yield

Connect to MaximumYield.com instantly from your Smartphone with our Quick Response (QR) Code, found on the cover of every issue of Maximum Yield. Now you can access the best products, the most in-depth articles and information, and the latest news at high speeds. Simply download the QR Code Reader software compatible with your Smartphone, scan

the QR Code and your phone’s browser will automatically launch, redirecting you to www.maximumyield.com. It’s that simple!

Gabriel Bronsztein is president and founder of Everest Garden Supply, a wholesale-only distribution company based in Northern California. Involved in the hydroponics industry for over 15 years, Gabriel focuses on market leadership through product innovation and superior customer service. He is a member of the Progressive Gardening Trade Association and The International Carnivorous Plant Society.

Jose Luis Pinheiro Bartolo is the president of Biobizz Worldwide Inc., a global leader in the production of hydroponic organic fertilizers and soil mixtures. He is passionate about the organic market and providing the highest service and perfectionism that comes direct from his heart and is projected to all aspects of his life.

Joshua Serpa graduated from Southern Oregon University with a degree in communication and computer science. He is the division manager at Aerolife Systems, a company that manufactures high output aeroponic systems. His book, “The Art of Aeroponics,” will be available Spring 2011.


http://www.superthrive.com/


Do you have a question for Simon?

Send it to [email protected] with the words

“Simon Says” in the subject line, and your answer will be

printed in an upcoming edition.

What a great question and a wonderful example of how experimenting in the garden can generate creative ideas. Before discussing the nutritional and efficacious nature of a jellyfish fertilizer in the garden we should probably mention why this is even being considered.Jellyfish populations around the world are surging. Scientists

are pointing at global warming and environmental pollution. In areas where there is large agricultural runoff, nutrification of the water can cause anoxic (low oxygen) areas in the water. Although this is very bad for fish, which tend to disappear, the jellyfish seem to thrive with their ability to store oxygen within their physical structure—one of many exceptional evolutionary functions found within the lowly jellyfish.Japan was concerned with their overpopulation and its

effect on their fishing industry and tried to be proactive. The government hired fishermen to drag razor wire through the masses of jellyfish but it backfired and unleashed a population explosion, a jelly survival mechanism when they are under attack, yet another evolutionary marvel.Overpopulation is a bit of an understatement in some cases.

In November 2007 the only fish farm in Northern Ireland was overrun by a flotilla of jellyfish 16 kilometres wide and 13 metres deep. The army of jellies ate through 2,000,000 worth of fish and wiped out the farm before moving on.So we have a lot of jellyfish and we need to use them while

trying to limit their population explosion. There are many ideas that are being tested. Many people talk about eating them, but

What have you heard about jellyfish fertilizer? I just saw a show produced in Japan about jellyfish fertilizer and I am wondering where I can buy some. Would it be good for all stages of growth?

the ones people eat are actually endangered while the ones no one puts on a table are exploding.In theory all things organic

will decompose into organic matter and nutrients so jellyfish could become plant nutrients. Preliminary research has shown some positive results in the field of vegetables. The initial research has been done in Japan and the species of jellies they tested have elevated levels of nitrogen and phosphorous. They also have similar levels of potassium, magnesium and calcium to that of the surrounding salt water. Unfortunately they also have a strong level of sodium and processes are being tested to try and reduce the sodium levels.With the issue of jellyfish overpopulation being

international I would think that if its found to be effective it won’t be long before it is an organic option for gardeners. MY

SIMONsays

9Maximum Yield | July/August 2011 9Maximum Yield Australia | November/December 2010 9Maximum Yield Australia | September/October 2010

hydroponic news, tips and trivia from around the worldMAXfacts

10 Maximum Yield | May/June 2011

Falklands company shows viability of hydroponics BusinessThis year, Stanley Growers, based on the East Falkland Islands, celebrates their 25th year growing and marketing their hydroponic produce—predominantly fresh salad crops. Over the past quarter of a century, the company has supplied the military and local population of the Falklands and has provided the cruise ship industry and South American countries with a large amount of crops.(Source: http://hydroponicsguide.co.uk)

Nuts About hydroThe Greenearth Project in Savusavu, Fiji has constructed an ingenious hydroponic growing system of bamboo and coconuts. The system uses coconut husks (coir) as a growing media, and worm castings and humus tea as fertilizer.(Source: www.fijilettuce.com)

Fresh connections 2011The fresh produce industry in both Australia and New Zealand has been hit hard by recent unprecedented

natural disasters. Hardest-hit Queensland hosted the international fruit and vegetable event Fresh Connections 2011 to showcase to the region and the world just how resilient the Australasian fresh

produce industry can be.The program included a tour of Brisbane wholesale markets, innovative

grower facilities and leading retailers, and plenary and concurrent sessions with leading local and international speakers.

Attendees included growers, packers and marketers; logistic suppliers; packing and packaging companies; research and technical experts; and government professionals, among other interested groups.(Sources: www.hydroponics.com.au, www.freshconnections2011.com)

Market Lighting Affects NutrientsMany people reach toward the back of the fresh produce shelf to find the freshest salad greens with the latest expiration dates. But a study led by agriculture scientists may prompt consumers to instead look for packages that receive the greatest exposure to light—usually those found closest to the front.For the study, the researchers exposed spinach leaves to light similar to the 24 hour artificial fluorescent light received by spinach in packages located at the front of the display case. A second group was enclosed in two-layer-thick, brown-grocery-bag paper to represent the dark treatment.

Light exposure resulted in a significant increase in levels of:• carotenoids• vitamins C, E, K• B9 or folate

(Source: www.ars.usda.gov)


premium hydroponic strawberries grown Locally in Marlborough, New ZealandHedgerows Hydroponic are popular growers of premium strawberries in Blenheim, Marlborough with 14,000 visitors annually. Home of the famous Desire King berry, their aim is to “produce the best quality strawberries in New Zealand and to get them to the customer as fresh as possible.”They offer comprehensive tours through the hydroponics greenhouse,

which include tasting, and their delicious spray-free strawberries are available from August through January.(Source: www.hedgerows.co.nz)

Lifting spirits with hydroponicsThe United Cerebral Palsy of New York City recently began an indoor farming curriculum. Alternative gardening practices like hydroponics are being used as tools to improve the lives of developmentally disable individuals, providing education, therapy and job opportunities.(Source: www.ucpnyc.org)

Balcony Farms sprout in shanghaiConcerns about food safety and the high cost of organics in Shanghai are prompting some city residents to grow their own veggies. In 2009, 46.6 per cent of China’s population, around 622 million people, lived in urban centres and the number is expected to rise to 70 per cent by 2035.Susan Evans, founder of Kplunk, a company specializing in sustainable strategy

decision making and research, led a study in 2009 on sustainability perceptions and behaviours for around 400 households in Shanghai. It found that around 95 per cent of people surveyed are concerned with food safety; they are unsure and concerned about farming practices, levels of pesticide, fertilizer and the process of manufacturing. Those surveyed also said that certified organic food is too expensive and difficult to find. In 2010, another Kplunk study of around 120 individuals found 60 per cent were interested in growing their own vegetables.(Source: www.theurbn.com)

ground-breaking New waste water treatment Unveiled in south AfricaMajor beer brewers SABMiller is working to reduce its water consumption and clean up waste water from its factories using groundbreaking research. In partnership with Rhodes University, Project Eden will feature an environmentally sustainable treatment system for brewery waste water, with the resulting output being used to successfully rear edible, freshwater fish and grow hydroponic lettuce.(Source: www.guardian.co.uk)

MY


PRODUCTspotlight Your guide to this issue’s hottest items. Ask for them at your local indoor gardening store.

Boldtbags 23 Litre 4 Bag KitThe Boldtbags 23 litre four bag kit offers the perfect range of filtration with the 220, 160, 73 and 25 micron bags. Boldtbags are made from heat-fused nylon and FDA approved watertight lining. The Swiss grade mesh screens have been measured to the absolute micron and heat-stamped to prevent fluctuation. Boldtbags use reinforced military grade nylon stitching and are bolted at the stress points to keep everything in the bags and not on you. The durable nickel-plated grommets can be used easily with suspension systems and will never rust. Visit your local indoor gardening shop for more information.

soft twist tie garden wire Now Available through Authorized greenstar RetailersGreenstar Plant Products is proud to be a new distributor of the Soft Twist Tie Garden Wire. This soft, pliable wire is reusable and great for fastening shrubs, plants, flowers, vines and decorations. UV stabilized and able to handle ex-treme temperatures, these Soft Twist Ties are available in four convenient roll sizes: five metres, 17 metres, 76 metres and 152 metres. For more informa-tion, visit your favourite gardening shop.

titan controls® Atlas 3™, 4™, 5™ and 6™Sunlight Supply®, Inc. is pleased to announce the release of the newest Atlas CO2 controllers from Titan Controls®. The Titan Controls® CO2 control line integrates mul-tiple features, all designed to help take the guesswork out of CO2 monitoring/control-ling in your garden. The Atlas line uses digital technology to monitor/control your garden CO2 levels to help you provide just the right amount of CO2. Be in control with Titan. Visit your favourite indoor gardening shop for more information.

introducing crop sudden RiseCrop Sudden Rise is a ripening brix and resin stimulator. Sudden Rise is applied to plants three to four weeks before harvest, which results in faster finishing time and improved product quality. Additionally, Sudden Rise contains a special form of potassium that has natural anti-mould and anti-fungi attributes, reducing the chances of leaf mould. Sudden Rise is a multi-purpose additive that increases yields. Available now at hydroponic shops across Australasia.


MY

titan controls® helios 15™ EtL Listed 8 Light controller with timerSunlight Supply®, Inc. is pleased to announce the release of the new Helios 15™ - eight light controller with timer from Titan Controls®. This ETL-listed controller is acceptable for use in commercial applications. The Helios 15 features two premium quality Siemens brand relays, a durable powder coated steel chassis, a German made ‘on-board’ 24 hour timer and NEMA six - 15R UL-listed power outlets. Controlling up to eight 1,000 watt lights at 240 volts has never been easier. Visit your local hydro shop for more information.

crop Rootz tweakedCrop Rootz tweaked formula in-duces plants and seeds to produce more roots and germinate quicker. Cuttings and seedlings treated with Rootz establish faster and healthier, contributing to a more successful, high yielding harvest. Rootz also revitalizes stressed and diseased plants. One application of Rootz to an unhealthy plant will

stimulate root growth and provide nutrition for a healthy recovery. Rootz special tweaked formula syncs nutrient sup-ply and root growth that is essential for all young plants. Available now at hydroponic shops across Australasia.

introducing crop sumoCrop Sumo (the king of PKs) consists of unique forms of nitrogen, phos-phorous, potash and humates. These special ingredients are more easily absorbed by plant cells, providing the correct and increased nutrition to plants during the flowering stage. Sumo’s special formula is ideal for application when plants just begin to show flowering sites, usually during the third week of bloom. Sumo application for two to three weeks when flowering sites first appear will increase the flower/fruit size and final yield substantially. Available now at hydroponic shops across Australasia.

http://www.nutrifield.com.au

Humidity, Vapour Pressure Deficit and the Transpiration Stream

by Dr. Lynette Morgan

14 Maximum Yield | July/August 201114 Maximum Yield | July/August 2011

With indoor gardens our focus for optimizing growth is often light, warmth and just the right mix of nutrients; but humidity, or more specifically

vapour pressure deficit (VPD), is sometimes overlooked.

While relative humidity is fairly easy to measure with sensors or meters in the plant canopy, it’s difficult to know exactly what to aim for and how to adjust levels—and what exactly it all means for plants. High humidity gets the blame for all sorts of scourges and nasty disease outbreaks, while low humidity may mistakenly be held accountable for anything that looks like burning, drying, shrivelling or bleaching. However, the issues of humidity and VPD in the growing environment are a little more complex, both in terms of plant growth and disease or growth disorders. To complicate matters further, different levels of humidity and VPD are appropriate for different plant species—from dry atmosphere cactus to wet, steaming tropicals.


Tipburn of the inner leaves of lettuce is more common under high humidity, warm growing conditions that restrict the flow of calcium out to the leaf edges.

Powdery mildew is one of the few diseases that can occur under low or high humidity conditions.

What is relative humidity (RH) and vapour pressure deficit (VPD)?Relative humidity is the most commonly used measure of how much water vapour is held in the air and it’s something most of us are familiar with, as we all know how uncomfort-able hot, steamy air can be. 100 per cent relative humidity is extremely humid, while a humidity reading of only 50 per cent represents a dry environment, but what these values don’t tell us is how much water is actually being held in the air, unless the temperature is also given. This is because cold air holds much less water vapour than hot air. For example, air at 10°C can hold 9.4 grams of water vapour per one cu-bic metre, while air at 30°C can hold three times as much, up to a maximum of 30.4 grams per one cubic metre.

http://www.nutrifield.com.au/


Humidity, Vapour pressure deficit and tHe transpiration stream

A dense canopy of large leaves can rapidly increase the humidity in the growing environment through the process of transpiration.

A dry environment with low humidity typically results in smaller, more compact leaves in tomato crops.

This has some implications for growers as it’s not just a simple case of aiming for one ideal relative humidity value, since the effect of humidity on plants also depends on temperature. As a rough guide, the table below is used by greenhouse growers of many fruiting and vegetable crops and shows the relationship between temperature and humidity levels.

Temperature °C Minimum ideal RH(fog or wet down)

Ideal RH Maximum RH(to prevent disease)

15 - 50 per cent 73 per cent

20 46 per cent 64 per cent 80 per cent



The problem with using relative humidity is that it’s hard to set one optimum RH value, particularly when tem-peratures tend to vary between day and night and often throughout a 24 hour period. For this reason many grow-ers prefer to use vapour pressure deficit (VPD) as a more accurate measure of the water vapour content of the air and how this affects plant growth.VPD is the difference (or deficit) between the amount of mois-

ture in the air at the current time and how much moisture the air can hold when it is saturated. Saturated air will condense out to form dew or condensation and leaf wetness, which can lead to rot and a higher occurrence of certain disease pathogens. So while plants don’t want an overly dry atmosphere (high VPD), which sucks the moisture from the foliage, they also don’t want a wet en-vironment (low VPD), which slows transpiration and can lead to

an increase in disease outbreaks. VPD is typically expressed in the units kPa (kilopascals) with the range for most plants being 0.45 kPa to 1.25 kPa, with the optimum being around 0.85 kPa. Most indoor gardens are best run at 0.8 to 0.95 kPa for healthy mature plants, with cuttings needing a more humid environment in the


Transpirational water loss helps the plant cool itself. This is vital under hot sun or artificial lamps.

lower VPD ranges. Unlike relative humidity, the VPD range for optimal growth already takes current temperature into account—so the one ideal value irrespective of temperature is around 0.85 kPa. Growers who come to grips with the concept of VPD can accurately measure and adjust their growing environment to stay within the recommended range and give themselves some con-siderable advantages both in terms of maximizing growth and the ability to control some rather persistent nasties such as Botrytis (grey mould) disease.Technically, VPD more accurately describes what the plant

experiences in relation to the effects of temperature and humid-ity on growth and transpiration. It combines the effects of both humidity and temperature into one value, so it’s easier to use when setting environmental controls.

Why is humidity or VPD so important for plant growth?VPD directly affects the rate of transpiration within the plant. Transpiration not only cools the plant, but the transpiration stream from root to leaf surface carries essential minerals

“Growers who come to grips with the concept of VPD can accurately measure and adjust their growing environment to stay within the recommended range.”




Young, tender and density-grown hydroponic crops such as microgreens need extra attention to humidity and air move-ment to prevent disease outbreaks.

Some species like it hot and dry and others prefer warm and steamy; optimum humidity varies with many plants.

up the plant to where they are needed for tissue development. Leaves exposed to the sun or overhead lamps would soon become dangerously hot if they were not cooled by water evaporating from the leaf sur-face—the process actually works in a similar way to sweat. This evapo-rated water needs to be replaced from the transpiration stream, which moves in the xylem vessels of the plant. If the water flow from roots to shoots in the xylem vessels is not fast enough, the plant will start to wilt and tissue damage will occur. The plant will shut its stomata in an at-tempt to retain turgor pressure and prevent wilting if too much water is being lost via transpiration. When the stomata shut to prevent water loss, photosynthesis cannot oc-

cur as CO2 can’t be taken in from the surrounding air, so plant growth and

yield will be slow if this occurs too often. Low humidity (high VPD) can cause large volumes of water from the transpiration stream to be lost to the air and force the plant to shut down its stomata to prevent desiccation, and this ultimately reduces growth and yields.

“Leaves exposed to the sun or overhead lamps would soon become dangerously hot if they were not cooled by water evaporating from the leaf surface.”


High humidity (low VPD), on the other hand, creates a differ-ent problem. When the air already contains a lot of water vapour and may even be close to saturation, it cannot absorb much more water from the plant surface and transpiration slows or even stops. If high humidity conditions exist at the same time as high temperatures, the plant has a major problem as it can’t evaporate enough water from its foliage to cool its tissue and overheating will then occur. Cell damage, wilting and reduced growth will result where hot plants can’t effectively cool them-selves via transpiration due to high relative humidity, and in these cases some humidity control is essential.The transpiration stream moving through the xylem vessels

from roots to shoots driven by VPD and humidity is essential for plant functioning. Not only does the water carried in the tran-spiration stream maintain plant turgor and support, it also carries with it mineral elements and other compounds taken up by the roots. So without a good rate of transpiration drawing the flow of water and minerals up through the xylem tissues from the roots, plant foliage can’t obtain sufficient levels of nutrients for growth and development. One of the most important aspects of transpiration is the flow of calcium. If transpiration is restricted in any way, the lack of calcium flow out to the leaf tips and new cells in developing fruits will cause problems such as tip burn and blossom end rot, which are conditions common under warm and humid growing conditions.

How RH and VPD influence disease outbreaksThere are a wide range of fungal and bacterial diseases that will attack even healthy plants under high humidity (low VPD) conditions, because fungal spores in particular are carried on air currents and so tend to be around much of the time just waiting for the right conditions to launch an attack. Spores themselves need to absorb water from the environment to germinate and get inside plant tissue, and having free water available such as that from condensation on plant surfaces is perfect for fungal diseases to develop. However, not all fungal disease spores need water on the plant surface, and many will attack when the air humidity is high. For this reason the safe maximum humidity value is often consid-ered to be around 85 per cent at 25°C, or in other words a VPD value of more than 0.35 kPa is recommended at all times in or-der to prevent fungal diseases, which are common under humid conditions. While many of the commonly encountered plant

“An open pan of water should provide enough evaporation to increase the humidity if you’re only dealing with a small area. Evaporative coolers also tend to increase the humidity of the air fairly effectively under warm growing conditions.”



diseases such as Botrytis thrive under humid conditions, and a good degree of control can be achieved by running optimal RH or VPD levels, there is always an exception. Powdery mildew species have spores that contain a lot of water themselves, so they don’t need high humidity or water for germination, and they can also obtain all the water they need for growth from the leaves that they infect. This means that powdery mildew can develop at humidity levels as low as 30 per cent and that its appearance is not necessarily a sign that humidity has been run-ning high.

How to control RH and VPDLow humidity (high VPD) is fairly easy to adjust upwards to high RH, as putting water vapour back into the air can be easily achieved with some light fogging, misting or damping down in the growing area. An open pan of water should provide enough evaporation to increase the humidity if you’re only dealing with a small area. Evaporative coolers also tend to increase the humidity of the air fairly effectively under warm growing conditions. However, having high humidity is a more common

Misting or fogging of the atmosphere in the growing area is an effective way of increasing the humidity in arid climates.

problem, as large surface areas of foliage tend to lose surpris-ing volumes of water through transpiration and this adds to the humidity of the surrounding air. This humid air, referred to as the boundary layer, needs to be removed from directly around the foliage or further transpiration could be restricted. The best way of doing this is with a continual stream of drier

fresh air, which not only lowers the humidity directly surround-ing the leaf surface but also replenishes CO

2 for photosynthesis.

The amount of airflow required to continually remove ex-cess water vapour and bring in sufficient CO

2 is higher than

many growers realize—there should be sufficient airflow to keep the leaves gently moving most of the time. The warmer it is and the faster the plants are growing, the more the air

“The amount of airflow required to continually remove excess water vapour and bring in sufficient CO2 is higher than many growers realize.”



Cuttings or clones need extra humidity to prevent excessive moisture loss during the root formation phase.

needs to be shifted over the leaf surface for these processes to occur at optimal rates. For very humid climates, some-times the only option is a dehumidifier. If the outside air being brought in to cool and dehumidify an indoor garden is naturally very humid it can’t absorb much more moisture from transpiration, and using a dehumidifier is often useful for smaller areas under these conditions.Checking humidity or monitoring vapour pressure deficit in

the growing area is just as important as maintaining tempera-ture, light and nutrition levels when it comes to optimizing plant growth and yields. Having some understanding of the relationship between RH and temperature and VPD and how to influence and optimize these factors is an essential tool for the serious grower, and also for those gardeners who just want to prevent annoying outbreaks of fungal disease. MY

http://www.house-garden.com.au/


Grow Tents for the Construc ionally Challenged

by Gabriel Bronsztein

Why build a grow tent?

One of the biggest obstacles for indoor gardeners is designing and building or setting up the grow space. For the DIY-chal-lenged, grow tents are an excellent alternative for those garden-ers that don’t feel comfortable swinging a hammer or using a screw gun.Indoor grow tents come in many sizes from 1.5 square feet to

10 square feet. They are extremely compact, and even the largest available size fits in a single box that most people could carry. Grow tents are easy to set-up and can be assembled by one per-son in a matter of minutes.Many grow tents are lined with a highly reflective material,

usually a metalized film to maximize light efficiency. Initially, due to the limited sizes available, these tents were most attrac-tive to beginner gardeners lacking experience setting up a grow room. With the recent addition of many new sizes, these tents have become much more attractive to a variety of gardeners with varying levels of experience. Even expert growers are find-ing grow tents to be convenient and effective for their needs.

If building a garden space from scratch is not your idea of a good time, check out the various benefits and ease of set-up with indoor grow tents, which come in a variety of sizes and can be assembled by one person in a matter of minutes.

If you are considering the DIY route, consider this, you will spend more time at the hardware store in line at the check out counter than it would take to assemble a grow tent! When you get home, laden with heavy lumber, sheet rock, screws, paint and primer, you’ve set yourself for more than a few days work.While I think it’s a great idea to build a custom indoor garden

if you are a homeowner, it’s not the most logical option for renters. Indoor grow tents can be taken down and put up in a new location so easily and quickly your plants won’t even notice they moved.

Really making it work

It is becoming increasingly popular for vegetable gardeners to start their plants indoors before moving them outside in late spring. This gives them a head start allowing them to start their plants earlier without fear of frost. Indoor grow tents are so versatile allowing tem-porary gardens to be made in just about any indoor space. The space returns to normal in a few weeks when plants are moved outdoors.


Grow Tents for the Construc ionally Challenged

Today most indoor gardeners take cuttings or clone plants that have desirable characteristics. Too often these plants are shared among fellow gardeners. Inadvertently they are also sharing pests. It is good practice to isolate or quarantine new plants in a separate garden to observe them for pests. This quarantined area can also be used to treat plants with pests before you introduce them into the main garden. This is a great idea that can save you from a serious pest infestation in your garden.Often after building a grow room the grower realizes it would

be nice to have a separate (second or even third) grow space. If not as a quarantine area, the additional space could be used to grow parent material for cuttings (motherplants). Or, it could be a vegetative room featuring a long day light cycle to help your plants grow large and healthy before transferring them into a bloom room with a short day cycle. Having two (or more) sepa-rate areas allows you to grow your plants under 18 hours of light until they have reached the desired bloom height. Then you can move them into your bloom room with 12

hours of light. This has a number of advantages. First, you can have a perpetual harvest by harvesting a few plants every week while having replacements ready to go in the garden. Another advantage is that by eliminating the veg time you can have more harvest cycles in a given period of time.

Benefits of indoor grow tents• can be set up and taken down quickly

and easily• create gardens with a minimal impact to

homes and rental properties• allow for separate garden spaces to be

created easily for separate vegetative and blooming gardens, quarantine areas or temporary gardens to establish plants for outdoor growing

• are sturdy but flexible to eliminate breaking or snapping

• are non-toxic• are adjustable and can be modified

Continued on page 26



3Once the tent is properly positioned, install the roof supports. The tent can now be zipped and the viewing windows opened if desired. Happy growing!

Constructing a Grow Tent - Easy as 1...2...3

1Begin to construct your grow tent by assembling the tent poles from the ground up. Start at one corner piece and install the top poles.

2After unpacking the tent, unzip its main zipper as well as the top and bottom too. Drag the tent over the top of the frame, ensuring the vent port is on top. The floor of the tent can now be pulled under the frame and positioned properly.

MY

Grow tents for tHe constructionally cHallenGed

Continued from page 23

27Maximum Yield | May/June 2011

http://www.bacplantfood.com.au


ADVANCED AEROPONICS:

Com

pres

sed A

ir fo

r High Output Plant Production by joshua T. Serpa

Growing plants in compressed air aeroponic systems is an efficient art. True aeroponic systems have the potential to conserve fresh water, one of nature’s most precious resources. By providing plants with just the right amount of water and nutrients they need to grow, water waste is minimal. Due to our population’s predicted exponential growth in the next 40 years, the need for clean, fresh water for food crops is dire. According to Scientific American magazine, 70 per cent of the earth’s fresh water is used for agricul-ture. By 2050, fresh water will become an extremely valuable and expensive commodity unless water collection techniques are im-proved. Enter the age of compressed air aeroponic systems (CAAS). CAAS use water and nutrients efficiently, which reduces the cost of food production and increases profits.Plants grow faster in true aeroponic systems because the nutrient

solution is instantly available for the plants to metabolize. Essentially, there are no barriers between the nutrient solution and cells (root hairs) that consume the plant food. Root zone health is extremely important to the success of any growing system, but in a true

aeroponic system the roots not only live but thrive. In the case of CAAS, plant metabolism is also greatly increased when nutrient so-lution is fogged into the root zone at the optimal micron size (zero to 30 microns), allowing the plants to absorb the solution without causing damage to the root hairs. If the micron size of the fog is too large or too small the aeroponic system will not function properly and will cause root zone damage and potentially crop failure.The most amazing thing about CAAS is the amount of root hairs

that grow in the root chamber. In case you are unfamiliar, root hairs are those fuzzy roots that can be seen after your cuttings have an-chored in a starter cube. They usually expand perpendicular to the main and lateral roots. They are extremely fragile and most aero-ponic systems cannot produce them at all. Root hairs are single-walled cells, which is why they are so good at absorption. They are approximately one micron wide and up to three millimetres long depending on the plant species. Root hairs grow rapidly and can be multiplied with the correct root hormones. In CAAS root hairs can be re-grown if damage occurs in the root zone due to drying

“It takes time to persuade men to do even what is for their own good.” – Thomas Jefferson


ADVANCED AEROPONICS:

Fresh aeroponic roots forming at 12 days. Notice the lack of root hair due to over fogging.

Compressed air aeroponic set-up.

References:Despommier, Dickson. “Growing Skyscrapers: The Rise of Vertical Farms.” Scientific American (November, 2009).

Segal, Eran, Tammi Kushnir, Yechezekel Mualem, and Uri Shani. “Water Uptake and Hydraulics of the Root Hair Rhizosphere.” (2007).

Compressed air aeroponic cuttings

out or over saturation. This is very uncommon if not impos-sible in a typical spray-o-ponic system. These fine root hairs drastically increase the absorption rate of the root zone; they are the point at which mycorrhizal fungi and beneficial bacteria colonize, forming the symbiotic relationship between bacteria, fungus, roots and nutrients. More research needs to be done to study the relationship of root hairs and root respiration. Root respiration is the gas exchange that occurs in the root zone by which O

2 is consumed and CO

2 is released (either by beneficial

bacteria and fungi or the plant itself). Plant growth is posi-tively correlated to root respiration—hence the cloth container craze. With CAAS fresh O

2 is repeatedly injected into the root

zone every time the fog nozzle turns on. This replenishment of oxygen around the root zone is one of the catalysts for true aeroponic growth. With the advent of CAAS gardeners will see increased yields per square foot and plants pushing the limits of their genetic potential.One of the most outstanding advantages of these systems is the

quality of the end product. When plants are grown aeroponi-cally the roots are flushed completely. At harvest pure water is fogged into the root zone forcing the plant to consume any remaining carbohydrates it has stored. Improved flavours are apparent in food grown aeroponically. As aeroponic systems gain popularity, consumers will become conscious of aeroponic produce and seek it out.Conventionally-grown crops (in soil) carry many problems not

seen in indoor, hydroponic or aeroponic gardens. With aeropon-ics, soil pH is no longer a problem. Parasites that commonly breed in soil are no longer a problem. Soil borne pathogens and parasitic fungi (Pythium and Fusarium) are a non-issue as well. People might think that root rot only happens in hydroponics but overwater you soil garden or use stagnate pond water on your soil-grown plants and your roots will rot. In soil gardens root diseases are impossible to see while in an aeroponic system it is very easy to tell if your root zone is healthy and growing. When you grow aeroponically you get to start from scratch with

pure water (zero PPM), exact minerals and the proper concentra-tions of nutrients, exact beneficial fungi (endomycorrhizae), exact sugars (digested cane sugar) and exact beneficial bacteria that plants crave. Aeroponics gives the grower total control over what their plants consume. The grower can maximize flavours and yields and control consistency, quantity and quality.CAAS can be automated so very little physical effort is required

from the grower once the system is set up properly. At the hobby-ist level, this is great for people with disabilities or the elderly. On

a commercial level it is much easier to produce large volumes of produce. Automation reduces the need to hand water and feed. You simply need to make sure all of the parameters are set correctly. If the nutrient solution is properly stored the reservoir can last for long periods of time. The nice thing about an automated garden is that you can focus on plant maintenance, pruning and the other aspects of gardening that will increase your yields.CAAS may not be for everyone. A good understanding of water

purification, reagent grade nutrients, plant genetics, full spectrum lighting, sealed environment agriculture, compost tea and other intricacies is recommended. CAAS are more expensive to set up but the benefits and advantages will far outweigh the initial investment. With a little time and understanding the techniques to successful aeroponic growing can be learned. In the near future, CAAS may become the standard way to grow high value crops. After all, the proof is in the pudding, and aero-ponic pudding tastes great. MY

“Plant growth is positively correlated to root respiration.”

Knowing how to identify and control red

spider mites can help you rid them from

your garden—and enjoy it once again.

Red spider mites are garden pests that

affect a variety of plants, most commonly

azaleas and camellias. Once you get an

infestation, you will find red spider

mites everywhere on the plant. It

is important to take care of the

infestation before the plant becomes

permanently damaged.

What is a red

spider mite?

Red spider mites can be either

the European red spider mite

or the Southern red spider mite

(the most common variety). The

European spider mite is normally

only seen on apple trees, while

the Southern spider mite attacks a

wider variety of plants.

Spider mites are arachnids and

related to spiders, but are smaller and

have only one body section (where

spiders have two).

identification

A plant that is infested by red spider mites

will start to look unhealthy and will have a

“dusty” appearance to the undersides of their

leaves. Close inspection will reveal that the dust is

actually moving and is in fact the spider mites.

The plant may also have some webbing on the

underside or on the branches of plant.

REd SPidER MiTES:

identification and Control

Maximum Yield | July/August 201130

“The best way to control red

spider mites is through the

use of their natural predators.

Lacewings and ladybugs are

commonly used.”

The best way to ensure your plants are free of red spider

mites is by keeping your plants healthy and keeping the

areas around your plants free of debris and dust. Also make

sure your plants are well watered. This will help keep the red

spider mites away as they prefer very dry environments. MY

For more gardening tips and tricks visit

www.gardeningkn

owhow.com or check out

www.gardeningkn

owhow.com/ques

tions

You cannot easily make out the details of red spider

mites with the naked eye but a magnifying glass can

make the details more visible. Red spider mites are—

obviously—all red. The two-spotted spider mite is

partially red. Knocking some off onto a piece of white

paper will make it easier to distinguish the type.

ControlRed spider mites are most active in cool environments.

The best way to control red spider mites is through the

use of their natural predators. Lacewings and ladybugs are

commonly used, but predatory mites can also be used. All

of these spider mite predators are available from reputable

gardening supply centers.

You can also use pesticides to eliminate red spider mites.

Insecticidal soaps and oils work best. You should be

careful using pesticides though as they will also kill their

natural predators and the red spider mites may simply

move from the pesticide treated area to non-treated areas.

Maximum Yield | July/August 2011 31

32 Maximum Yield | July/August 201132 Maximum Yield | March/April 201132 Maximum Yield | May/June 2011

Fungi’s Role in the Ecosystem

Mycorrhizae fungi, an important component of soil life, work with nature to break down nutrients and create optimal conditions for the delivery of food to plants. The many types of Mycorrhizae fungi and their many amazing,

symbiotic functions are discussed here.

by Luis Bartolo



In order for organic gardens to function at optimal levels, healthy soil—abundant with living microorganisms—is required. This living soil is sustained by fertilizers and the natural processes that assist in breaking fertilizers down. Microscopic organisms develop into a self-sustaining ecosystem, which in turn transforms into an acceptable food source for plants. In order for this to happen, all of the elements must be able to unite and work together symbiotically.In nature, the same effect is achieved through years of growth and

decay and natural, cyclic conditions of weather and soil movement. The result is the creation of the pathways and

receptors for nature’s organic and inor-ganic elements to develop.

Within this ecosystem are also certain types of fungi that

serve to assist the natural processes of life and decay. These fungi, called My-

corrhizae, form working partnerships with plants and transform base materials into food.Mycorrhiza is a fungus

that lives among and upon the roots of plants and trees. It exists to assist with the breakdown of complex nutrients—similar to en-

zymes—and has the ability to create optimal conditions for

delivery of food directly to plants’ roots. In some rare

cases, Mycorrhiza acts as a pathogen, which exists only to feed itself at the expense of the plant.Mycorrhizae are grouped into several scientific categories ow-

ing to the types of plants and trees that they develop the strongest bonds and in the differences in growth and operation.

Let’s introduce some Mycorrhizae.EctomycorrhizaeWoody shrubs and trees commonly form Ectomycorrhizae. Pines and other forest trees often grow poorly or cannot survive in the absence of the Mycorrhizae. This species of the fungi is recognized by its unique web-like form, known as a hartig net, named after bota-nist Robert Hartig.The network forms pathways between the

roots, covering the whole surface area. This then extends into the roots and the cell struc-ture creating a direct pathway from the inside out. Outwardly of the root web, Ectomycor-rhizae form thinker tendrils that extend out into the soil. These pathways can travel miles into the soil to search for water and difficult to acquire minerals such as potassium, which they are then able to transport back to the rhizosphere of the plant or tree.

Arbuscular MycorrhizaeArbuscular Mycorrhizae are recognized by their branching growth pattern not unlike the structure of a tree. They too live within the root system between cells. They are also able to fully penetrate and grow within a plant’s cell and extend from within. Analysis has shown that the host plant allows this to hap-pen by changing its own physiological chemistry to adapt to the DNA profile of the Mycorrhizae. Arbuscular Mycorrhi-zae are particularly adept at obtain-ing hard to acquire phosphor from the soil and feeding it to the plants in a usable form.Fossil and molecular evidence

indicates the earliest land plants had arbuscular Mycorrhizal


partnerships 450 million years ago. Because of its prevalence in so many plant fossils of this period it is strongly assumed that it would

have contributed to the development of plants worldwide.

Ericaceous Mycorrhizae

As the name suggests this form of Mycor-rhizae is found mainly in the plants of the

Ericaceae family, acid lovers like azaleas,

rhododendrons and heathers. Unlike other Mycorrhizae, Ericaceous Mycor-

rhizae grow and form a loose sheath around root systems rather than penetrat-ing or living inside it.

This is perfect for these plants as they have very

fine root systems and are usually found in wet, peaty soil. The Mycorrhizae protect the root

system in a hostile environment whilst translocation and feeding the plant. Like the other categories Ericaceous Mycorrhiza also has the ability to travel to other species and is often found linked to trees and other shrubs outside of the Ericaceous order. This may be so it is able to acquire a more varied spectrum of nutrient for itself or the host.

Orchidaceous MycorrhizaeMycorrhizal fungi have a unique role in the lifecycle of plants in the Orchidaceae family. Orchids typically have very small seeds with little nutrient reserve. The plant colonizes shortly after germi-nation, and the mycorrhizal fungus supplies carbon and vitamins to the developing embryo. The fungus grows into the plant cell, surrounding the cell membrane and forming protective coils within the cell. These coils are active for only a few days, after which they lose vigour and degenerate; the developing orchid then absorbs the nutrient contents. In mature orchids, Mycorrhizae also have roles in nutrient uptake and translocation.

Building BridgesA plant feeds through the outer surface of its roots. The effect of the Mycorrhizae around the root’s surface serves to expand this surface area in many directions whilst permitting more nutrients to be ab-sorbed and contained within the rhizosphere.In the case of phosphorus—which is difficult for a plant to absorb

due to its immobility—it forms bridges that directly seeks out phos-phoric sources, sometimes at great distances. In turn, the fungi are able to transform it in a way that is mobile and in an accessible and digestible form for the plant.Alongside these Mycorrhizae enable the mineralization of nitrogen

and carbon by naturally-composting decaying plant matter in the soil and re-delivering it to the plant and surrounding soil as available and useable food sources.Mycorrhiza is a remarkable, natural phenomenon that connects all

growth and life, providing for itself and its environment and sustain-ing and regenerating itself through its myriad connections.Serious research on the workings of Mycorrhizae only commenced

in the last 40 years. Its many benefits are now known; particular strains are grown and colonies applied in situations of low microbial activity such as barren landscapes with no nutritional content or overworked farmland. This has far-reaching possibilities in the area of agriculture and particularly food production where the introduc-tion of beneficial Mycorrhizae could assist in sustaining third world countries and feeding their people.For the hobby grower, strains of Mycorrhizae can be purchased

and added to garden beds and potting mixes to colonize and assist in plant development. MY

“Mycorrhiza is a remarkable, natural phenomena that connects all growth

and life.”

funGi’s role in tHe ecosystem

35Maximum Yield | May/June 2011

http://twitter.com/#!/Max_Yield

YOU TELL US

Maximum Yield (MY): What is the history of BoldtBags?Stephanie: Boldtbags is the oldest filtration bag manufacturer in America. Started over eight years ago, a couple of guys got together and created the ultimate filtration bag ever produced for commercial use. In the beginning, the bags got loaned out to friends and then their friends. Today Boldtbags are in demand around the world.

MY: What products does BoldtBags offer to growers and what makes each product unique?Stephanie: Boldtbags continues to offer a full line of commercial grade water filtration products from small one

Maximum Yield sits down with stephanie gentry of Boldtbags to talk about wash bags, cone filters and product quality assurance.

gallon sizes to large 32 gallon bags, and also has suspension systems for help with the larger bags. The bags are made with pride and a guarantee against any manufacturing defects.

MY: How are BoldtBags used and what type of grower are they suitable for?Stephanie: Boldtbags are used to brew fresh organic compost teas and to filter extracts, water and essential oils. Fresh organic compost teas contain natural biocolonies of beneficial bacteria, fungi and protozoa. Using Boldtbag filters to brew increases the availability of phosphorous and other nutrients and vitamins to meet critical plant needs. These bags are suitable for the beginning gardener as well as commercial farmers.

Maximum Yield | July/August 201136

MY: What are your Wash Bags used for? What are your Cone Filters used for?Stephanie: We offer Wash Bags and we are the only company with the patented award-winning Cone Filter bags. Large and small wash bags are great for washing machine use and our cone kits are the highest yielding filtration products on the market. Just turn it inside out. No scraping needed. Boldtbags are available in different kit sizes including a three bag, four bag and eight bag kit. The three bag kit offers the 220, 73 and 25 micron bags. The four bag kit includes the 160 micron as well, and the eight bag kit includes all eight microns—220, 190, 160, 120, 90, 73, 45 and 25.

MY: How are BoldtBags made to ensure quality and effectiveness?Stephanie: Boldtbags are made with industrial strength nylon and we are the only company to offer our exclusive FDA approved food safe lining. This waterproof lining ensures no absorption of the bag contents into the fabric and produces a higher yield. Boldtbags are sewn with reinforced double stitching and use military spec materials. The grommets are marine grade nickel plated brass and will never rust. The screens used in Boldtbags are Swiss grade quality, pressure rated and measured to the absolute micron. They are heat stamped to assure micron accuracy and to prevent pore-size fluctuation.

MY: What strategies has BoldtBags implemented to lessen their environmental impact on our planet?Stephanie: Boldtbags is a very environmentally and proactive company that uses solar power, electric transportation and is exploring bio-diesel, using our own filtration products in the process.

MY: How does BoldtBags support local causes and community building? What does BoldtBags have planned for the future in the way of products and technologies?Stephanie: Boldtbags is always constantly doing research, testing filtrations and developing new products to help improve gardening and culinary experiences. We actively listen to our community of farmers and growers and strive to not only meet, but exceed, their expectations for amazing new products. We sponsor many local artists and community building events across the country.Boldtbags has a number of new products in pre-production and are eager to get them

to market as we know they will be a huge success. As to what they are, you just might have to wait and see…

MY: Where in Australia can indoor gardeners find BoldtBags?Stephanie: We are always looking for distribution partners and venturing into new markets such as Australia where we know Boldtbags are very appreciated for their quality craftsmanship. Ask your favourite store to carry them or go to www.boldtbags.com to order a set today. We can also be reached toll free at 1-877-450-2247. MY


“We actively listen to our community of farmers and growers and strive to not only

meet, but exceed, their expectations for amazing new products.”


Lavender is not only beautiful to look at, it smells great as well. Lavender can be used to decorate your home, in cooking and in some home remedies. Commercially grown lavender can be purchased in dried form or as lavender oil, but you can easily grow and harvest your own. Growing lavender will surely add beauty to your garden.

How to Harvest and Storeby Troy Marshall

Lavender

Harvesting lavender:• Wait until the flowers have just fully opened. The fully

opened lavender flowers are fragrant but not overpowering. You will want to preserve the flowers at this point because they contain a fine concentration of essential oils. The longer the flowers are in bloom, the less potent they are.

• Use a pair of pruners or secateurs in cutting the flowers. Be careful when cutting so you don’t crush the flowers.

• Cut right above the leaves. Also, pick flowers that are part of a long stem. This way when you dry the lavender, you can easily hang the flowers using the stems.

• Encourage more flowers to grow. You can accomplish this by leaving around 2.5 to five centimetres of green when cutting. Don’t cut the woodiest parts.

Drying and storing lavender:• Use a drying rack. Although this is not required, a drying

rack for herbs and flowers makes it easier for you to dry your lavender.

• Hang the lavender. In the absence of a drying rack, you can use strings or rubber bands to hold the stems together


and hang these upside down. You can group the stems into six before tying them together firmly. Another option is to hang the lavender stems individually on a string. If your home is located in an area with low humidity, you can group the stems together in half dozen bunches. Otherwise, it is best to hang each stem separately in order to dry the flowers faster.

• Place the lavender in a dry, dark place. In a moist environment, the lavender will mould and rot. The ideal drying temperature is between 30 to 32°C on the first drying day. For the next drying days, the temperature should be between 24 and 28°C. Attics and lofts are great places to dry them. You can also place the lavender in brown paper bags with holes at the bottom and on the sides so air comes in.

• Check the drying progress. Once in awhile, see how the lavender is doing. The stems will shrink so adjust the string or tighten the rubber bands. After a month, the lavender should be dry enough.

• Store the lavender in a dry, dark place. You can place them in a cardboard box or a brown paper bag with no holes. Depending on how you want to use the dried lavender, you can choose to remove the flowers from the stems or keep the flowers on the stems.

Lavender has many uses. They can be used for decorating your home by including them in a dried flower arrangement. The dried flowers can be added to scented sachets or used in candle making. Aromatherapy oils and lotions come infused with lavender oil. It is very easy to grow, harvest and store lavender. Instead of buying dried lavender, consider growing lavender plants yourself.

(Source: www.howtodothings.com)

MY

http://www.maximumyield.com/winbigAUS


NEEd Fp

http://www.indoorgardenexpo.com/


http://www.indoorgardenexpo.com/


Drought is a part of normal life in many parts

of the world and given the threats posed by

climate change combined with traditionally

low rainfall, growers and non-growers alike

need to keep their clean water supplies high.

A rainwater tank is a sustainable option to

help through lean times. by Michael Bloch

Living WaterHarvesting

Here in Australia, the corrugated metal rainwater tank is somewhat of a national icon. In South Australia, around 30 per cent of homes have rainwater catchment systems. Water tanks haven’t been an overly attractive home addition until recently. These days, tanks come in many shapes, colours, materials and sizes to suit any home and space. If having a full size water tank isn’t an option for you, rain barrels are a very affordable and easy-to-install option. They look like a pickle barrel, are mostly made of plastic and hold up to 363 litres.In this article we’ll take a brief look at the various materials

commonly used to construct larger tanks—and the various advantages and disadvantages.

Poly (plastic) rainwater tanksPoly tanks are made from polyethylene, a UV-stabilized, food-grade plastic. These tanks are light and have a long, serviceable life. Many poly tanks carrying a 25 year warranty, although many claim 15 years is a more realistic lifespan. They are also usually the second cheapest of the options covered in this article.One of the major disadvantages of polyethylene is the material

is made from petrochemicals, meaning this big hunk of plastic


will take decades generations to breakdown and it will release toxins in doing so. However, polyethylene tanks can be easily recycled after 15 years, so it’s just a matter of breaking the tank up and carting it to a recycler.Some poly tanks are made with a

vertical seam; this is a weak point that may cause splitting and subsequent water loss so a seamless tank is probably a better choice. Polyethylene water tanks and fire don’t mix as they’ll just melt should the flames get too close.The other issue is the effects of drinking water stored for

such a long time in this material. Polyethylene tanks are relatively new on the market, so there are no serviceable life studies in relation to these issues as far as I know.I had a polyethylene rainwater tank at my original place

in the outback where temperatures would get up to around 46°C in the shade and below freezing during winter. The tank performed well over the couple of years I had it before selling the property, but there was a bit of an odd taste to the water on hot days. A subsequent poly tank I acquired for my current property has also stood up well to similar extremes, and without the odd taste.Before purchasing a poly tank, check the warranty for

temperature stipulations as some manufacturers will void the warranty if the tank is installed near extremely hot conditions.

Steel tanksGalvanized tanks have been around for over 150 years and are usually the cheapest option. Hot-dip galvanizing is a process used to coat steel or iron with zinc. The zinc helps slow down corrosion, but depending on environmental factors, a galvanized tank may last well under five years, particularly if the roof of the structure capturing the rainwater is made from Zincalume, due to electrolysis.Zincalume® has been around for about 30 years and was

originally used for roofing. It’s a mix of 55 per cent aluminium, 43.5 per cent zinc and 1.5 per cent silicon bonded to steel. There’s a lot of conflicting information around about lifespan, but the general consensus seems to be about 10 to 15 years.Some metal tanks now also have

polyethylene linings to further slow down corrosion. If you do buy a steel tank, look into installing extra sacrificial anodes to further delay corrosion.

Concrete water tanksConcrete rainwater tanks can be installed either above or underground. The latter is a good option if you’re short on space as they can be constructed to allow for load bearing, for

example, under a driveway.Given the material, they are very

heavy and often poured on-site or delivered in sections that are then basically cemented together. Again, a polyethylene liner may be used. Without a liner, the tank will leach lime and over time you’ll have slightly alkaline water. Concrete is porous so

without a liner water will penetrate into the concrete over time, which may cause corrosion of steel framework. Concrete is also an energy-intensive product that requires a great deal of heat and water in its production.

FibreglassThis is another long-lasting option that can be installed above or underground. Fibreglass tanks resist corrosion and are not generally affected by chemicals. As fibreglass tanks tend to allow more light in than other types of tank materials, this can encourage the growth of algae, so they should be painted or a gel coat should be applied. Fibreglass can also be brittle, leaving it prone to cracks; something you don’t want, particularly in an in-ground situation.

Choosing a tank materialChoice is wonderful, but as you can see, there are advantages and disadvantages with each type of tank—particularly when it comes to environmental impact—so it’s really a matter of gauging your needs and budget and then choosing the lesser of the evils. In regards to the required investment, you should bear in mind the initial cost and possible replacement costs.Rebates on rainwater tanks and associated plumbing are

working checking into; many governments now offer cash-back schemes. Even with the various disadvantages of each material, given the length of serviceable life of most tanks and the tens of thousands of litres of water you can collect over that time;

installing a rainwater tank is still a very green move.

A brief note on rainwater tank regulations

Before buying and installing a tank you should check with your local authorities as in some places you will need a special permit and in others they may be totally banned. Even in Australia, the driest inhabited

continent on Earth, some local governments had bans in place until

relatively recently—but the millennium drought thankfully sorted out most of those

short-sighted councils. MY

“It’s really a matter of gauging your needs and budget and then choosing the lesser

of the evils.”


AUSTRALIAACT

South pacific hydroponics #2 - 84 - 86 Wollongong St., Fyshwick ACT 2609 (02) 6239 2598South pacific hydroponics 70 Oatley Court , Belconnen ACT 2617 (02) 6251 0600

NEW SOUTH WALESAbC Aquaculture 54 Wahroonga Road, Kanwal NSW 2259 (61) 2 4393 3131ASe hydroponicsFactory 10/45 Leighton Pl., Hornsby NSW 2077 (02) 9477 3710ballina hydro 3 Ray O’Niell Crescent, Ballina NSW 2478 (02) 6686 7321brunswick hydro & Aquarium Supplies 19 Booyun Street, Brunswick Heads NSW 2483 (02) 6685 1552Criscete hydroponics and organics Unit 2/15 Kam Close, Morisset, NSW 2264 (02) 4973 5779Dr. Van Der bloom’s hydroponics Supplies 5/5 Forge Drive, Coff’s Harbour, NSW 2450 (02) 6651 9992Dubbo hydro & tobacconist 42c Victoria Street, Dubbo West NSW 2830 (02) 6885 1616ezi grow hydro 177 Mt Druit Road, Mt Druitt NSW 2770 (02) 9832 1610ezi grow hydro 1B/340 Windsor Street, Richmond NSW 2753 (02) 4588 5826ezi grow hydro 56 Fish Parade, Bathurst NSW 2795 (02) 9832 1610ezi grow hydro - head office 18 Part Street, Eglinton NSW 2795 (02) 6337 1485Favgro hydroponics growers 107 Glenella Road, Batehaven NSW 2536 (02) 4472 7165Felanza - hydroponics140 Princess Highway, Arncliffe, NSW 2205 (02) 9556 1494general hydroponics 7/14 Sunnyholt Road, Blacktown NSW 9676 (02) 9676 8682grow Australia Factory 1/5 Sefton Road, Thronleigh NSW 2120 (02) 9473 5000grow Your own Unit 6/34 Alliance Ave, Morisset NSW 2264 (02) 4973 5179happy grow hydro 15/The Crescent Street, Penrith NSW 2750 (02) 4732 2870hobby grow 6/46 Through Street South Grafton NSW 2460 (04) 2283 8069home harvest 423 Princess Highway, Rockdale NSW 2216 (02) 9567 8841hyalite moorebank 6/376 Newsbridge Road, Moorebank NSW 2170 (02) 9824 3400hyalite Villawood 2/21 Birmingham Avenue, Villawood NSW 2163 (02) 9723 7199hydro masta 100 Station Road, Seven Hills, Sydney NSW 2147 (02) 8812 2845hydro masta pty Ltd 76 Beecroft Road, Epping NSW 2121 (02) 9869 3011hydro net 2/14 Aific Street, Long Jetty NSW 2261 (02) 4334 6955hydro place 1/68 Nelson Street, Wallsend NSW 2287 (02) 4965 6595hydro Shop and Reptile Supplies 2/390 The Esplanade, Warners Bay NSW 2282 (02) 4958 1489hydro Shop pty Ltd Unit 1/5-7 Channel Road, Mayfield West NSW 2304 (02) 4960 0707hydro Supplies 57 Flinders Street, Darlinghurst NSW 2010 (02) 9326 0307hydro Wise B/385 The Entrance Road, Long Jetty NSW 2261 (02) 4333 5700hydroponics grow All Year 14 Fitzmaurice Street, Wagga Wagga NSW 2650 (02) 6921 5911hygrow horticulture (greenlite) 252 Oxford Street, Bondi Junction NSW 2022 (02) 9369 3928indoor Sun Shop 745 Victoria Road, Top Ryde NSW 2112 (02) 9808 6511indoor Sun Shop Unit 2/109 Junction Road, Moorebank NSW 2170 (02) 9822 4700international Fans PO Box 120, St. Mary’s NSW 2760 (02) 9833 7500Kyper’s tools and hydroponics Stuart & Tincogan Sts, Mullumbimby NSW 2482 (02) 6684 4928Lismore hydro 1/106 Canway Street, Lismore NSW 2480 (02) 6621 3311

Lismore hydroponics rear of 28 Casino St., South Lismore, NSW 2480 (02) 6621 3311northern nursery Supplies pty Ltd 14-16 Nance Road, Kempsey NSW 2440 (02) 6563 1599nowra hydro 68 Bridge Road, Nowra NSW 2541 (02) 4423 3224nutriflo hydroponic Systems 19/5 Daintree Place, Gosford West NSW 2250 (02) 4323 1599parkview plants 250 Princess Highway, Nowra South NSW 2541 (02) 4423 0599port pumps and irrigation 20 Uralla Road, Pt Macquarie NSW 2444 (02) 6581 1272Quik grow 510a Great Western Hwy., Pendle Hill NSW 2145 (02) 9636 7023Quick grow 823 King Georges Road, S. Hurstville NSW 2221 (02) 9546 8642Quik grow pty Ltd 490 Parramatta Road, Petersham NSW 2049 (02) 9568 2900Simple grow Hassall Street & Windem, Wetherill Pk NSW 2164 (02) 9604 0469tweed Coast hydroponics 2/58 Machinery Dr., Tweeds Head South NSW 2486 (07) 5524 8588uncle Wal’s gardenland 31 Crescent Avenue, Taree NSW 2430 (02) 6550 0221home grown Aquaponics 13/8a-8b Hartley Drive, Thornton NSW 2322 (02) 4028 6388Westside Lighting & electrical (ezi Range) PO Box 274, Mascot NSW 1400 1 800 661 475Wollongong hydroponic Center 318 Crown Street, Wollongong NSW 2500 (02) 4225 8773

NORTHERN TERRITORYKatherine hydroponics Centre 17 Rundle Street, Katherine NT 0850 (08) 8972 1730

QUEENSLANDA happy medium hydroponics Unit2/10 Central Court, Browns Plains QLD 4118 (07) 3809 3322Allgrow hydro 13 - 58 Bullock Head St., Sumner Park QLD 4074 (07) 3376 7222Aquatic oasis Unit 2/33 Smith Street, Capalaba QLD 4157 (07) 3245 7777billabong hydroponics Lot 1, Billabong Court, Childers QLD 4660 (07) 4126 3551D-bay hydroponics Shop 5/404 Deception Bay Road, Deception Bay QLD 4508 (07) 3204 8324e.t. grow home Unit 1/4 Windmill Street, Southport QLD 4215 (07) 5591 6501eye Lighting Australia pty Ltd PO Box 306, Carole Park QLD 4300 (07) 3335 3556green power hydroponics 2/80 Beerburrum Road, Caboolture QLD 4510 (07) 5428 1133grow hydro 22 Mining Street, Bundamba QLD 4304 (07) 3816 3206hyalite Varsity 5/11 John Duncan Crt.,Varsity Lakes QLD 4227 (07) 5593 7385hydroponic Roots & Shoots Lot 3 Herberton Road, Atherton QLD 4883 (07) 4091 3217hydroponics & garden Supplies 93 Cook St., Portsmith QLD 4870 (07) 4035 5422hydroponics today PO Box 785, Stanthorpe QLD 4380 (07) 4683 3133indoor Solutions Unit 2 / 79 Oxford Tce., Taringa QLD 4068J&K hydroponics 10 Wacol Station Road, Wacol, Brisbane QLD, 4076 (07) 3271 6210KY garden 3/31 Argyle PDE, Darra Brisbane QLD 4076 (07) 3375 9098nerang hydroponic Centre 27 Lawrence Drive, Nerang QLD 4211 (07) 5527 4155north Queensland hydro Supplies Shop 2B/20-22 Fleming St., Townsville QLD 4810 (07) 4728 3957northern hydroponics383 Mulgrave Road, Cairns QLD 4870 (07) 4054 5884pioneer hydroponics 194 Doyles Road, Pleystowe QLD 4741 (07) 4959 2016SA hydroponics Shed 3, 1191 Anzac Avenue, Kallangar QLD 4503 (07) 3285 1355Simply hydroponics gold Coast 42 Lawrence Drive, Nerang QLD 4211 (07) 5596 2250

Sunstate hydroponics 1137 Ipswitch Road, Moorooka QLD 4105 (07) 3848 5288Sunstate hydroponics67 Aerodrome Road, Maroochydore QLD 4558 (07) 5479 1011the hydroponic Warehouse Shop 3/73 PIckering Street, Enoggera QLD 4051 (07) 3354 1588tumbling Waters hydroponics2 Clarkes Track, Malanda QLD 4885 (07) 4096 6443Walsh’s Seeds garden Centre 881 Ruthven Street, Toowoomba QLD 4350 (07) 4636 1077

SOUTH AUSTRALIAAmazon Aquariums & gardening Unit 5, 16 Research Road, Pooraka SA 5095 (08) 8359 1800Ascot park 753 Marion Road, Ascot Park SA 5043 (08) 8357 4700barry’s hardware Saints & Main North Rd., Salisbury Plains SA 5109 (08) 8281 4066bolzon home & garden 103 Tolley Road, St Agnes SA 5097 (08) 8265 0665Chocablock Discount Variety Store 15-17/1220 Grand Junction, Hope Valley SA 5090 (08) 8396 3133Complete hydroponics 1581 Main North Road Salisbury East SA 5109 (08) 8258 4022Country hydro 434 Saddleback Road, Whyalla SA 5600 (08) 8645 3105D & W Dependable hardware 45B Kettering Road, Elizabeth South SA 5112 (08) 8287 6399Festive hydro 2 Kreig Street, Evanston Park SA 5116 (08) 8523 5100Fulham gardener nursery 597 Tapleys Hill Road, Fulham SA 5024 (08) 8235 2004Futchatec Distribution 4 Symonds St. Royal Park, 5014 (08) 8447-1122glandore hydroponics 644 - 646 South Road, Glandore SA 5037 (08) 8371 5777greener then green 52 - 54 Cliff Avenue, Port Noarlunga South SA 51 (08) 8386 2596greenhouse Superstore Lonsdale 35 to 37 Aldenhoven Road SA 5160 (08) 8382 0100greenhouse Superstore Royal park 4 Symonds St. Royal Park SA 5014 (08) 8447 5899ground-up Service nursery 3 Copinger Road, Pt. Pirie SA 5540 (08) 8264 9455harvest time hydroponics Shop 3/146-148, Findon Road, Findon SA 5023 (08) 8244 0222hindmarsh hydroponics 39a Manton Street, Hindmarsh SA 5095 (08) 8346 9461highland hydro 14/1042 Grand Junction Road, Holden Hill SA 5088 (08) 8395 4455hong Kong hydro 13 Research Road, Pooraka SA 5095 (08) 8260 2000hydro heaven Kane Motors-Hunt Road, Mount Barker SA 5251 (08) 8391 1880hydro Sales & Service 1 Salisbury Crescent, Colonel Light SA 5041 (08) 8272 2000hydro technics 321 South Road, Croydon SA 5008 (08) 8241 5022hydro Warehouse 181 Seacombe Road, South Brighton SA 5048 (08) 8377 1200hydro World 40 Folland Avenue, Northfield SA 5085 (08) 8262 8323Koko’s hydro Warehouse Unit 2/2 McGowan Street, Pooraka SA 5095 (08) 8260 5463Larg’s bay garden Supply 239 Victoria Road, Largs Bay SA 5016 (08) 8242 3788martins Road hydro # 5- 353 Martins Road, Parafield Gardens SA 5107 (08) 8283 4011mitre 10 Drive in 152 Hanson Road, Mansfield Park SA 5012 (08) 8445 1813new Age hydroponics 135-137 Sir Donald Bradman Dr., Hilton SA 5033 (08) 8351 9100owen Agencies 17-19 Railway Terrace, Owen SA 5460 (08) 8528 6008professional hydro 4/522 Grange Road, Fulham Gardens SA 5024 (08) 8353 0133professional hydro Shop 5/645 Lower North East Road SA 5075 (08) 8365 5172professional hydroponics113 Maurice Road, Murray Bridge SA (08) 8532 3441

RETAILdirectory


Seaton hydroponics129 Tapleys Hill Road Seaton SA 5023 (08)82682636 Soladome Aquaculture & hydro 44 Chapel St., Norwood SA 5067 (08) 8362 8042South Coast hydroponics 6/25 Gulfview Road, Christies Beach SA 5165 (08) 8384 2380State hydroponics 174 Semaphore Road, Exeter SA 5019 (08) 8341 5991tea tree gully hydro 32 Famechon Cresent, Modbury North SA 5092 (08) 8264 9455two Wells hardware 86 Old Port Wakefield Road, Two Wells SA 5501 (08) 8520 2287urban grow Solutions1/111 Main Sth Rd, O’Halloran Hill, S.A 5189 (08) 8322 0040 West garden Centre Peachey Road, Elizabeth West SA 5113 (08) 8255 1355

TASMANIAAdvanced hydroponics 26 Mulgrave Street, South Launceston Tas 7249 (03) 6344 5588ezy grow 625 East Derwent Highway, Lindisfarne Tas 7015 (03) 6243 9490garden World 717 West Tamar Highway, Legana Tas 7277 (03) 6330 1177green Acres hydroponics Unit 1 46-48 Bingalong Rd, Mornington, TAS 7018 (03) 6245 1066growers Choice 225 Main Road, Derwent Park Tas 7009 (03) 6273 6088hydroponics Systems131 Main Rd, Moonah, TAS 7009 (03) 6278 3457 hydroponic World 322 Bass Highway, Sulphur Creek Tas 7316 (03) 6435 4411organic garden Supplies tas 17 Don Road, Devonport Tas 7310 (03) 6424 7815tas hydroponic Supplies 99 Lampton Avenue, Derwent Park Tas 7009 (03) 6272 2202the hydroponic Company 69 Charles Street, Moonah Tas 7009 (03) 6273 1411the hydroponics Company 289 Hobart Road, Kings Medow Tas 7428 (03) 6340 2222

VICTORIAAlbury hydroponics 62 Thomas Mitchell Drive, Springvale Vic 3171 (03) 9540 8000All Seasons hydroponics 3 Springvale Road, Springvale Vic 3171 (03) 9540 8000banksia greenhouse and outdoor garden 530 Burwood Highway, Wantirna Vic 3152 (03) 9801 8070barb’s hydro and nursery 15 Wallace Avenue, Interverloch Vic 3196 (03) 5674 2584bayside hydroponics Factory 2/8 Rutherford Road, Seaford Vic 3196 (03) 9775 0495belgrave hydroponics 5/ 60-68 Colby Drive, Belgrave Heights Vic 3160 (03) 9754 3712brew ‘n’ grow 4 - 479 Nepean Highway, Edithvale Vic 3199 (03) 9783 3006Casey hydro 12 The Arcade Street, Cranbourne Vic 3977 (03) 5996 3697Casey hydro 78 Spring Square, Hallam Vic 3803 (03) 9796 3776Chronic hydroponics 31 Anderson Street, Templestowe Vic 3106 (03) 9646 8133Complete garden Supplies 580 Ballarat Road, Sunshine Vic 3020 (03) 9311 9776Discount hydroponics 752 Waverley Road, Chadstone Vic 3148 (03) 9568 1860echuca hydroponic nursery & Supplies 23 Ogilvie Avenue, Echuca Vic 3564 (03) 5480 2036echuca pump Shop 128 Ogilvie Avenue, Echuca Vic 3564 (03) 5480 7080excel Distributors pty Ltd 2/41 Quinn Street, Preston Vic 3072 (03) 9495 0083F.L.o.W. plants and environments 66B Chapel Street, Windsor Vic 3181 (03) 9510 6832gardensmart 810-834 Springvale Road, Keysborough Vic 3173 (03) 9769 1411global hydroponics 10 Knight Avenue, Sunshine Vic 3020 (03) 9356 9400greenleaf hydroponics 9a Church Street, Traralgon Vic 3844 (03) 5176 0898

greenleaf hydroponics Factory 7, Industrial Park Drive, Lilydale Vic 3140 (03) 9739 7311greenLite - Ringwood 291 Maroondah Highway, Ringwood Vic 3134 (03) 9870 8566grow 4 XS Rear 24 Simms Road, Greensborough Vic 3088 (03) 9435 6425holland Forge pty Ltd. 5 Hi-tech Place, Rowville Vic 3178 (03) 9764 1372hydroware 59a Lara Way, Campbellfield, Vic, 3061 (03) 9357 8805hyalite Airport West Unit 4/504-506 Fullarton Road, Airport West 3042 (03) 9331 5452hyalite bayswater 4/19 Jersey Road, Bayswater Vic 3153 (03) 9720 1946hyalite global 10 Knight Avenue, Sunshine North Vic 3020 (03) 9356 9400hyalite Westend 3 Third Avenue, Sunshine Vic 3020 (03) 9311 3510indoor garden Company29 Glasgow Street, Collingwood Vic 3066 (03) 9416 1699impact Distribution PO Box 2188, Salisbury Downs 5108 (08) 8250-1515Jb Lighting 492 - 500 Neerim Road, Murrumbeena Vic 3163 (03) 9569 4399Just hydroponics Deer park Unit 11 29-39 Westwood Drive, Deer Park, VIC 3023 (03) 8390 0861Just hydroponics geelong Unit 7 36-38 Saunders street, North Geelong, VIC 3215 (03) 5278 6478 Latrove Valley home brew Supplies PO Box 802, Morwell Vic 3804 (03) 5133 9140Living Jungle 345 Sommerville Road, Footscray West Vic 3012 (03) 9314 0055melton hydroponic Supplies 18/10 Norton Drive, Melton Vic 3194 (03) 9746 9256midtown hydroponics Factory 1, 821B Howitt St., Wendouree Vic 3355 (03) 5339 1300one Stop Sprinklers 1 Burwood Highway, Wantirna Vic 3152 (03) 9800 2177pam’s home brew & hydroponics 61 McArthur Street, Sale Vic 3850 (03) 5143 1143palms & plants 175 Salisbury Highway, Salisbury S.A. 5108 (08) 8285 7575Shepparton hydroponics 87A Archer Street, Shepparton Vic 3630 (03) 5831 6433Simply hydroponics 5/ 411-413 Old Geelong Rd., Hoppers Cros. 3029 (03) 9360 9344Simply hydroponics 8, 59-61 Miller St., Epping 3076 (03) 9408 4677Sunlite hydroponics 1/104 Shannon Avenue, Geelong West Vic 3281 (03) 5222 6730Sunray hydro 157 Tenth Street, Mildura Vic 3500 (03) 5023 6422Supply net international p/L PO Box 171, Highbury Vic 5089 (88) 264-3600the hydroponic Connection 397 Dorset Road, Boronia Vic 3155 (03) 9761 0662Waterworks hydroponics Unit 1, 5 Brand Drive, Thomastown Vic 3074 (03) 9465 1455

WESTERN AUSTRALIAAccent hydroponics Unit 2/141 Russell Street, Morley WA 6062 (08) 9375 9355Aqua post Unit 2B 7 Yampi Way, Willetton WA 6155 (08) 9354 2888Aquaponics Lot 12 Warton Road, Canning Vale WA 6155 1800 640 222bunbury Alternate growing Supplies8/13 Worcestor Bend, Davenport, WA 6230 (08) 9725 7020Creative hydroponics 1/95 Dixon Road, Rockingham WA 6168 (08) 9528 1310great Southern hydroponics Shop 1, 21 Hennessy Road, Bunbury WA 6230 (08) 9721 8322greenfingers World of hydroponics Albany Hwy & Kelvin Rd.,Maddington WA 6109 (08) 9452 0546greenfingers World of hydroponics Unit C 14-16 Elliot Street, Midvale WA 6056 (08) 9274 8388greenlite hydroponics 4/91 Wanneroo Road, Tuart Hill WA 6060 (08) 9345 5321

growsmart hydroponics 47768 South Coast Highway, Albany WA 6330 (08) 9841 3220hydro nation 41A Rockingham Road, Hamilton Hill WA 6163 (08) 9336 7368hydroponic Solutions 1/1928 Beach Road, Malaga WA 6090 (08) 9248 1901hydroponic Warehouse Unit 7/627 Wanneroo Road, Wanneroo WA 6065 (08) 9206 0188hydroponica 317 Guildford Road, Maylands WA 6051 (08) 9371 5757isabella’s hydroponics 66 Jambanis Road, Wanneroo WA 6065 (08) 9306 3028Johnson’s nursery garden Centre 30 Blencowe Road, Geralton WA 6530 (08) 9921 6016neerabup organic & hydroponic Supplies Unit 1, 21 Warman St. Neerabup WA 6031 (08) 9404 7155one Stop hydroponics 947 Beaufort Street, Inglewood WA 6052 (08) 9471 7000perth hydroponic Centre Shop 4, 171-175 Abernathy Road, Belmont WA 6104 (08) 9478 1211Reptile and grow Store Unit 7 - 117-119 Dixon Road, Rockingham WA 6168 (08) 9527 2245 Southwest hydroponics Lot 29, Pinjarra Road, Mandurah WA 6210 (08) 9534 8544the grow Room 1/1451 Albany Highway, Cannington WA 6107 (08) 9356 7044bloem PO Box 1816, Subiaco WA 6008 (08) 9217 4400the Watershed Water Systems 150 Russell Street, Morley WA 6062 (08) 9473 1473the Watershed Water Systems 2874 Albany Highway, Kelmscott WA 6111 (08) 9495 1495the Watershed Water Systems 1/146 Great Eastern Highway, Midland WA 6210 (08) 9274 3232Water garden Warehouse 14 Drake Street, Osborne Park WA 6017 (08) 9443 7993

NEW ZEALANDeasy grow new Lynn 3018 Gt North Rd New Lynn, Auckland 09 827 0883 easy grow manukau15/69 Wiri Station Road, Manukau, Auckland 09 263 7560guru gardener 14 Molesworth St., New Plymouth 06 758 6661otaki hydroponics1083 S.H. 1 South Otaki 06 364 2206house of hydro221 Waiwhetu Rd., Lower Hutt Wellingtonpet and garden10 Fitzgerald Ave., Christchurch 03 377 2507grow and brew14a Flexman Place, Silverdale Auckland 09 426 2095green Day hydroponics Cnr of Maunganui Rd & Tawa St., Mt Maunganui 07 575 4090Switched on gardenerNumber 189 (Lower) Dent Street, Whangarei (09)438 0223Switched on gardenerUnit 159 Central Park Drive, Henderson (09) 837 1210Switched on gardenerUnit 1/60 Ti Rakau Drive, Pakuranga (09) 576 0296Switched on gardenerNumber 1c Sunshine Ave, Hamilton (07) 850 8351Switched on gardenerNumber 513 Heretaunga Street West, Hastings (06) 876 7885Switched on gardenerNumber 62 Kaiwharawhara Road, Wellington (04) 472 5265Switched on gardener Unit 7/67 View Road, Glenfield (09) 443 0106Switched on gardenerNumber 1 Rata Street, New Lynn (09) 826 4444Switched on gardenerNumber 57 Cavendish Drive, Manukau (09) 263 4336Switched on gardenerNumber 427 Cameron Road, Tauranga (07) 579 9840Switched on gardenerNumber 1060 Fergusson Drive, Upper Hutt (04) 526 3913Switched on gardenerNumber 3 Pascoe Street, Nelson (03) 546 4769Switched on gardener Number 9 Buckley Road, Linwood (03) 381 0937Switched on gardener Number 143 Tuam Street, Christchurch CBD (03) 374 5682Switched on gardenerNumber 313 King Edward Street, Dunedin (03) 456 1980


DO YOUknow?COMING UP INSep - Oct 2011

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Zincalume® has been around for about 30 years and was originally used for roofing. It’s a mix of 55 per cent aluminium, 43.5 per cent zinc and 1.5 per cent silicon bonded to steel.

Air at 10°C can hold 9.4 grams of water vapour per one cubic metre, while air at 30°C can hold three times as much, up to a maximum of 30.4 grams per one cubic metre.

Root hairs are single walled cells, approximately one micron wide and up to three millimetres long depending on the plant species.

Arbuscular Mycorrhizae and are able to fully penetrate and grow within a plant’s cell and extend from within. The host plant allows this to happen by changing its own physiological chemistry to adapt to the DNA profile of the Mycorrhizae.

A plant that is infested by red spider mites will start to look unhealthy and will have a dusty appearance to the undersides of their leaves.

In South Australia, around 30 per cent of homes have rainwater catchment systems.

Lavender flowers contain a fine concentration of essential when they are just fully open. The longer the flowers bloom, the less potent the essential oils are.

Vapour Pressure Deficit (VPD) is typically expressed in the units kPa (kilopascals) with the range for most plants being 0.45 kPa to 1.25 kPa.

Healthful Properties of AniseThis medicinal herb can treat digestive problems and toothaches, and the bonus is it can be easily grown at home.

www.maximumyield.comMaximum Yield September/October will be available September 1 for FREE at selected indoor gardening retail stores across Australia and New Zealand.

Subscriptions are available by contacting [email protected]

or visiting maximumyield.com/subscriptions.php

The Real Organic HydroponicsCombine quality and taste be employing organic hydroponics, a challenge that has yet to be reached fully.

The Flavour WheelEnhance the distinctive flavour of your crops by exerting control over nutrition—and other factors—for the ultimate taste experience.

Plus: The latest hydroponics news and trivia, the newest indoor gardening products, giveaways, upcoming events, beginner tips, industry insight and more.


http://www.genhydro.com/

48 Maximum Yield | July/August 201148 Maximum Yield Australia | November/December 2010


Maximum Yield Australia/New Zealand July/Aug 2011

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