Charles & Colvard created Moissanite is a new jewel, which is second in hardness only toa diamond (914 on the Mohs scale), and is also exceptionally tough. The following guidelinesfor working with this jewel are offered here.

SettingYou may handle this jewel as you would diamond and experience a very low percentage ofbreakage. The steel tools (gravers) used in setting processes have a hardness of 6 and will notscratch this jewel. However, like diamond, moissanite does not have cleavage directions thatwill cause the jewel to chip if these tools are pressed hard against a sharp edge (girdle or facetedge) of the jewel. Also, like diamond, they may chip if crowded against an adjacent jewelso that their girdle edges are forced against each other during the setting process. Special careshould be taken to leave some space between one jewel and the next in a mounting.

Moissanite is a tough material not easily prone to damage, but unless special care is givenwhere sharp points and thin girdles are concerned, chipping may occur. The sharp points onthe Radiant, Princess and Marquise cuts must be protected against unnecessary pressure.When bearings are cut as a seat for such jewels, a small hole should be drilled at the edge ofthe bearing where the points of the jewel rest. This will allow setting pressure against thesides, but will avoid pressure against the points. Also, if you presently use 60 degree bearing cutter burs, try 90 degrees instead. This angle is more parallel to the jewel and mayalso prevent breakage on the girdles. Pliers should never be used to set any moissanite because pressure cannot be properly controlled. When bezel setting these cuts, the entirebezel must be level and clear of burs. The corners should be drilled and the angle at the bottom of the bearing should match the angle on the pavilion of the jewel. Push downwardon the gold, making sure it forms over the edge of the crown, thereby closing the bezel. Donot push the gold into the edge of the jewel to close the bezel.

Prong WorkIf bearings (seats) are properly made in each prong the jewel should pose noproblem. In setting with pre-cut bearings you must be sure that the lower sectionof the bearing is parallel with the pavilion facets of the jewel. If not, it is a simple matter to just shape the lower part of the bearing so that the jewel fitsinto it instead of being pushed up against a curved edge. In such cases the pointof contact acts as a fulcrum and even slight pressure may chip the girdle. Thisholds true for diamonds as well. Look at the contact between the jewel and thebearing. If there is an open space next to the girdle then the bearings bottomedge needs to be adjusted.

Bead WorkGirdles should be fitted slightly below the metal surface and beads raised abovethe girdle rather than against it. Girdle edges on both diamond and moissanitemay chip if direct pressure is applied against it.

Lab-Created Moissanite:Jewelers Bench Guide

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PolishingAny abrasives used to polish gold or platinum may be used with moissanite. You may boiland steam as you would with a diamond. This jewel has excellent thermal properties. Do nottumble polish jewelry with any jewels that are set. Even diamonds will scratch during this process.

Ultra-sonic MachinesSingle pieces will cause no problems in ultrasonic cleaners. If you clean a number of piecesthey should be arranged on hooks so that jewels do not bounce against each other. You mayuse the solution either hot or cold.

Repairs and SizingRepairs may be done with moissanite in place. Be sure the jewel is properly cleaned beforeapplying the torch and be sure that the torch heat not be used above the solder melting point.This jewel can be cast in place, but some torches are capable of extreme ranges of temperature and may cause damage. Upon heating, the jewel will turn a cherry red color butwill return to its original color when cool. When repairs are made using platinum, solderdoes not present a problem. Quenching should be done after a few seconds.

AcidsYou may pickle the repaired pieces as with diamond.

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Hammer WorkIf bearings are properly cut you may use your electric hammer to move metalabove the girdle on the jewel. Trimming the inside of the fold with a gravershould not pose any problems. Burnishing should be done on the metal over thejewel not against the jewel.

Trimming Metal ProngsIf you use abrasive wheels to trim prongs after setting you must be sure that thewheels are made of rubber (not stone) and do not contain either silicon carbide(carborundum) or diamond abrasives. These will scratch the jewels on contactand require re-polishing of the scratched facets. If the wheels are of hard rubber avoid contact with the girdles of the jewels. Your tool supplier should beable to provide information regarding the abrasives in the rubber wheels you areusing. If you use files to trim prongs avoid passing the file over the sharp facetedges or the girdle edges. They can chip the jewel not scratch it. One way toavoid the rough file catching on a jewels edge is to use a three-corner file andgrind down and polish the corners. This will allow you to trim the inside of aprong with the file while only the polished corner edge is touching the jewel.

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