•Cleaning of roofs with replacement of all

damaged elements-Replacement of tiles,

beams, roof laths, ingots and other cement or

other eaves.

-How to do:

Broken tiles, lift the tiles that

cover the starting tile, remove,

lifting laterally and detach it from

the nearby tile, lift the top tile for

easy loosen up of the clapboard.

Insert the new tile and attach it to the strip. If

the tile is nailed or fastened with a hook start

by detaching the tiles that are around. If you

need to replace several tiles work from the

bottom up.

Beam damage, treat with fungicide and insec-

ticide, if that is not enough, attach to each

side, a board or a piece of thick plywood. So-

lidify the set screw and handle this reinforce-

ment with fungicide and insecticide

Moss on the roof, use high pressure

machine with brush, work from the

top to bottom in the direction of the

inclination. Caution not to cover

downspouts, so as not to clog. Allow

to dry and apply anti moss with

steamer and in the end apply a spe-

cial protective impervious coverage.

1. Coverages 2. Coverages

•Cleaning of gutters with clearing and replace-

ment of sections in poor condition

-How to do:

Check this talon if it in a good condition if not

replace it. The gutter shouldn´t be leveled,

should have a slight slope towards the down

pipe. Place grid in a half sphere or metal or

plastic filter applied also net or other accesso-

ries that allow completely to cover the gutter

and prevent leaves from accumulating.

•Cleaning riser pipe with unlocking, and re-

placement of section in poor condition, man-

hole and exits

-How to do:

Clearance from the top using wire hook for cleaning, if the water runs between two sec-tions of the drop tube it means that the ob-struction is located below, use drain cleaner or high pressure cleaning machine, if it doesn’t work disassemble the downpipe piece by piece and clean

•Cleaning of chimneys, vent pipes and others

with unblocking and repairing of cracks, fis-

sures or zones in poor condition, and eventual

replacement of finishes

-How to do:

Chimney cleaning, use a pipe cleaner to clean chimneys, depending on the height apply the cables together, for cracks and fissures apply plaster

Safety: Safety: ⇒ Furr Carinhas

•Hole in the stucco

-How to do:

The repair of a hole is made with filling product or with plas-ter. Scrape the edges of the hole and remove the dust and debris of plaster with a brush. Moisten the area with water. Spread the product across the area until the consistency is firm. Let it harden and apply the second layer. Smooth the

plaster or other product using the spatula.

•Esquina danificada

-How to do:

Remove the plaster that does not stick as well as all debris and dust. Nailing a batten straight in the opposite corner to be repaired. Fill the space between the lath and the wall with plas-ter, preventing it passes to the other side of the corner and let dry. Remove the strip of caution not to damage repairs effected at the corner. To prevent recurring damage apply a plastic or metal bracket

4. Interior Walls

Safety:

•Damaged Tile

-How to do:

Put tape around the damaged tile and in the appropriate center. Drilling the tile with a spe-cial concrete drill for tiles (wear goggles and gloves to avoid splinters).

Enlarge the hole with a chisel

and a hammer, remove debris by

hand. Scrape glue residues with

the chisel. Now use a notched

trowel to spread the glue in a

new tile and press it against the

wall. Allow to dry overnight before performing

the joints.

•Hole in plasterboard

-How to do:

Cut the edges of the hole with a jig saw or a knife, make a rectangular shape, introducing a new piece of plasterboard in the hole according to the de-sired size. Place it in the hole and stick it with a filling prod-

uct. Fill the joints alike. Larger pieces should be reinforced with a strip frame covered with a suitable filling.

5. Interior Walls

Safety: Safety:

•Cleaning of interior walls and ceilings, includ-

ing baseboards and moldings, with execution,

if necessary, new finishes, or renewal of areas

in poor condition..

• Execution of paintings or other finishes or

coatings, with eventual chipping and recon-

struction of plaster, outlines and stucco areas

deteriorated

• Varnishing, if the woods are decayed

-How to do:

Apply mass for wood and let dry, polish and

clean the work area well and then apply var-

nish. The varnish is applied to doors, base-

boards, wood floors, millwork, shutters and in

the windows with one or two coats of varnish

• Repair Cracks in stucco

-How to do:

Widen the crack with a putty knife or scraper.

Clean and moisten with a sponge. Fill the

crack with filler product. Smooth product and

when properly dried pass thin sandpaper on

its surface

3. Interior Walls

8. Products to apply 7. Products to apply

Safety:

6. Exterior Walls

•Maintenance of stone wall

-How to do:

Washing with high pressure hose. When using this method be careful not to get water in the spaces around the windows and doors in or-der to prevent rotting of the woods.

Polishing: If the prior art does not work, pass in stained zones of the wall with sandpaper applied to an electric drill. Use a moderate speed.

•Maintenance of a brick wall

-How to do:

•Use hot water and a stiff brush to remove dust and grime. Do not use soap or detergent in the water as it leaves stains that do not come out. To clean the toughest dirt, get a brick of the same type, leave it and use one of the pieces as an abrasive block, rubbing it in place.

10. Openings

Safety: Safety: Safety:

•Door hinges squeaking

-How to do:

Lift the door slightly and dis-engage the hinges with the help of a wooden wedge. Clean the bolts and snap ring hinges with a cloth soaked in turpentine and put mineral oil. Remove the wooden

wedge and lower the door to test, open and close the door to spread the oil.

•Door hinges to loosen

-How to do:

Remove the hinge screws and curl a wire in each of the sides of the screw. Insert the screw into wood glue and put in place.There are other

solutions put longer bolts of the same diame-ter or increase the bolt holes and placing a sleeve wood covered with glue slightly leaving the surface dry after sawing the part of the sleeve surface which was put by screwing the hinge the screw bushings.

•Doors closing bad / warped

-How to do:

Solid wooden doors can deform due to humid-ity the only solution is replacement.

• Doors that block

-How to do:

Check attachment of hinges, if it’s loose tighten if it doesn’t work look for where it can be blocked, if you have doubts put talcum powder on the floor and shoulder pads and close and open the door to find the place where it blocks. Sanding the site concerned and, if necessary use the planer and then sandpaper

•Door rubs on the floor

-How to do:

Introducing a metal ring or nylon axes on the hinges. If there’s no result take apart and pol-ish or even flatten the door. Polishing always in the direction of the wood grain.

•Lock cylinder

-How to do: Periodically lubricate do not use oil because the powder sticks quickly. Remove the can-non, to cleanse by dipping it in a solution of oil or turpentine. Allow to dry and lubricate with graphite dust. Verify that it works before mounting

11. Openings 9. Openings

•Frames disjointed

-How to do:

You can separate them in order to put them back on the site after pasting it. Another method, the simplest, is to strengthen the an-gles of the frame with metal connectors. Plac-ing the connectors in the corners on the inside and / or outside the frame and drawing with an X-acto, each perimeter. Digging and chopping wood enough that the connectors are at the level of the wood. Place the frame with a right angle and tighten the connectors. Cover with a layer of paint

•Frames rotting

-How to do:

Chopping wood with a pin punch tip to pene-trate the wood easily if it is rotten. Eliminate the rotten wood until you find the wooden sound. Fill the parts removed with a new piece of wood or resin based product. If the hole is deep apply several coats and let dry between each application layer. Smooth the final layer so as to place it at the level of the wood sur-face which has been repaired. Sanding, after drying, the entire window before painting.

Safety:

13. Pavements

•Repair a loose plank

-How to do:

Lift the board to check for cables or pipes un-derneath. If the board is not completely loose, use a holder of pipes and cables. Screw the loose boards closer to the beams. With a drill, drill the boards to accommodate the screws and be sure to soak their heads.If a board has been cut and there is no support underneath, nailing a batten to the rafter to increase the size of this. Then, place the board on the lath a n d s e c u r e w i t h s c r e w s .

•Replacing s damage plank

-How to do:

If the boards are connected by a joint to the top,start at the end of the damaged board. Enter the chisel between the junction of the boards and get one that is damaged.As the nails are being pulled, push the board down to the studs are exposed and can be removed with the ears of a hammer. Avoid hammering hard, especially in an older home, to prevent damage to stucco ceilings downstairs. When lifting the board put slats under it while still removing the other nails. If the board is just used, you can repackage it turning it over and pinning the side has not used up. However, if the board is too damaged, cut a new one and nail it in place.

14. Standard Tecnics 12. Pavements

•Maintenance of Marble pavements

-How to do:

Do not use abrasives. Pass the mop soaked in a solution of water and dishwashing liquid, work in sections to clean up the area if it is too large, scrubbing stubborn stains, if necessary. Then pass the floor with clear water and then dry it. Can shine by applying a wax or silicone based with a product suitable for marbles. Choose a product that does not make the sur-face slippery.

•Parquet floors of maintenance

-How to do:

Waxing and brushing along the grain. In the case of modern flooring, lacquered or glazed, simply vacuum or pass with a brush of silk. If the parquet is loose remove the parquets that are close to this loose and then remove the old glue residue from the floor, if there is no new material pass sandpaper on the old par-quet apply on the parquet loose behind and put new glue in the soil and let dry.

Atention!!

The wooden floor does not get along with the water. As such, when you need to clean, do not use large amounts of water.

•Concrete: Mixture cement ,sand, gravel and water

-How to do:

Use a smooth, flat surface, mix the sand and gravel after that make a well in center hole in the mixture and add cement, mix until you have a uniform color make a new hole in the center and pour water and mix the dry mass with water . Add more or less water according to the use of concrete

.

Note: Concrete is on average the proportion 1 part cement, 2 parts sand and 4 parts gravel.

•Grout

-How to do:

Pour 2/3 of the amount of water in the rotary tub (mixer) and then mix the cement and sand, according to the quantities desired. Add more water (not much).The grout mix must be ho-mogeneous nor too dry nor too liquid.Check the mixture through a small trick that consists on hand kneading a small ball of grout and can not leave water mixture and if this hap-pens to be too wet or if the ball falls apart the mortar this too dry.

Note: There are on the market already pre-pared mixtures of 2 to 10 kg which is only nec-essary to add water.

Safety:

15. Safety