FREE EDITION: Vol. XII Mar. - Apr., 2018Madrid´s only English language newspaperwww.madridmetropolitan.com

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Mar. - Apr., 2018 - The Madrid MetropolitanMadridMetropolitan.com2

A 12 bottle case of fin-est Castilian wine is tobe found at the end ofour hunt that exploresthe many secrets ofMadrid’s sometimedark and mysteriouspast. Every month for12 months we publisha clue or a challengefor those daring read-ers who wish to discov-er the hidden side ofMadrid.

Spring Challenge:To find this iconic Ma-drid vista you need to be in anotherMadrid iconic building. Name it andsend a selfie with the above in theframe to:editor@madridmetropolitan.com

Brought to you by:

Madrid Adventures -teambuildingevents with a Castilian twist.

Welcome to the 12th edition of the Madrid Metropolitan –the city’s only English language newspaper. Availableonline and distributed free throughout the city. To see

our list or if you would like to know where to pick it up just checkout the list on our website:http://www.madridmetropolitan.com/distribution-points

We also have an option where you can sign up for our free month-ly newsletter to get the pdf delivered to your mailbox. In this edi-tion we feature some of the great things happening in town in theSpring in our What´s On section as well as our a great selection ofarticles and insights into life in the great city of Madrid.

Thanks for supporting and we hope you enjoy reading.

The Madrid Metropolitan team

CONTENTS

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PUBLISHED BY: IBERIAN METROPOLITAN PRESSCIF:B87075305Calle Isabel Colbrand 10Planta 5 - Oficina 151, 28050 MadridTomo: 27.630 Folio: 1 Sección: 8 Hoja: M497912

OLAF CLAYTON | EDITOR: JEFF WISEMAN | DESIGN &LAYOUT : TOM LYONS | PHOTOGRAPHY & FEATURES: JAKERICHARDSON | CONTRIBUTORS: CHRIS NEIL, BARRY WALK-ER, MELISSA DURA, ABIGAIL AUSTIN, CHRISTOPHER MILL-ER, DOMINIQUE WHITE | FOOD & DRINK: JEMIMA BUTLER |ART: BRIAN COLLINS | FILM: ANDREW JAMES BALL | BUSI-NESS : ROGER PIKE | WEBSITE: TOM LYONS |

La edición, redacción, impresión, publicación, distribución, venta yexplotación publicitaria de periódicos y revistas con el CNAE 5814EDICIÓN DE REVISTAS.

Views expressed in Madrid Metropolitan are the opinions of thewriters and are not necessarily endorsed by the publishers. Althoughwe make every effort to quote the correct prices and opening hoursfor establishments mentioned in the magazine, it is possible somemay have changed since we went to press. All advertisements arepublished in good faith.

Madrid Metropolitan cannot accept responsibility for errors or omis-sions in individual ads or accept responsibility for work, services orgoods.

Madrid Metropolitan is published by Iberian Metropolitan Press SL.

MADRID TREASURE HUNT

2 Contents

3 A bit of Spanish

4 - 5 What’s On In Madrid

6 Living - Around Madrid

7 Living - What To Look Out For

8 Business - Behavioural Economics

9 Finance - Modelo 720 Reporting

10 Culture - Hidden Madrid

11 Alternative Voice - Sky High

12 Recipe - Seabream with Leeks & ...

13 - 15 Classified directory

OFFER:

This 21st century wine estate opens its doors and its world toour readers to begin a journey of the finest of Castillian winemaking and includes:

● Return luxury coach transfer ( just 1 hour from Madrid)● Estate tour and visit in English● Tasting of 4 wines● Picoteo of local fayre

Date: Sat. 28th AprilLeaving from Plaza España at11.00.

Cost 75 EUR per person - Max group size 16For more information and to book mail:info@madridadventures.com

Mar. - Apr., 2018 - The Madrid MetropolitanMadridMetropolitan.com 3A BIT OF SPANISH

Mar. - Apr., 2018 - The Madrid MetropolitanMadridMetropolitan.com4

The Queen of DarkPop comes to Ma-drid as part of her

world tour to promote herlatest album Lust For Life.Lara has been wowing au-diences since 2011 whenher international hit “Vid-eo Games” was consideredby many critics to have been thebest single of the year.

Nobel Prize win-ner and one ofthe most influen-

tial and iconic singer song-writers of our times BobDylan comes to Madrid toperform songs from hisAmerican roots from anearlier era that stretchesback to the 1930´s

WHAT’S ON THIS SPRING IN MADRID

Bob Dylan: March 26th - 28th

If you miss Bob Dylanthen head to Jazz-ville to see The Love-

hearts. The Lovehearts area Madrid based Brit band(Rebecca Perrett fromdarkest Worcestershire:vocals, violin and percus-sion, Caroline Bradburyfrom deepest Manchester:bass and vocals, Mark Scott fromthe depths of Sunderland: guitarand vocals, Chris Neill from thewastelands of Bristol: trumpet andvocals, and Steve Jenkins from

grimy London, capital of theworld: guitar and vocals) who playtheir own highly original brand ofexistential pop music.

One Direction be-came many asthey all went

their different ways. Ma-drid welcomes the onlyone to visit Spain with thissell out concert on the 31stMarch. The Madrid Metro-politan is hoping for an in-vitation to the after-show party.

Vocaloid Opera The End : March 22nd - 24th

HARRY STYLES - March 31st

24th Lied Cycle - Anna Lucia Richter- Apr. 9th

German sopranoAnna LuciaRichter comes to

Madrid to sing the musicof Franz Schubert, accom-panied by pianist MichaelGees.

Teatro de la Zarzuela,Madrid

‘La verdad entrelas manos’ (TheTruth in His

Hands) is an exhibitionorganised by InstitutoCervantes and the Foun-dation for the City of Cul-ture of Galicia. There are158 photos on display pay-ing tribute to Baldomero Pestana, the photographer who portrayedleading writers and intellectuals in Latin America.

The Madrid Metropolitan´s selection of the best that can be enjoyed inthe capital this spring.

LANA DEL REY - April 20th

The End, is a first.The first operamade with a voice

synthesis software calledVocaloid – needs to beseen and heard to be be-lieved!

With over 15 mil-lion albumssold world-

wide, Thirty Seconds ToMars can boast of being areference on the alterna-tive rock scene. Over 30years and 4 albums laterthe trio have an army offans around the world.

Thirty Seconds To Mars: April 12th

María José Montiel: April 6th

The National Archaeologi-cal Museum (MAN) cele-brates its 150th

anniversary this year and topresents by way of commemora-tion a history of the science overthis period as well as showcasing

its duty to “document, preserveand exhibit the material remainsof our history and to convey theknowledge of the past, facilitatingits understanding and ( provide)access to all citizens

The Lovehearts: April 23rd (Jazzville)

https://www.facebook.com/loveheartsmadrid/

WiZINK CENTRE - http://hstyles.co.uk/

National Music Auditorium - http://bobdylan.com

Palacio De Vistalegre, Madrid - http://lanadelrey.com/

http://www.annaluciarichter.com/index.php/en/#biography

WiZink Center - http://www.thirtysecondstomars.com/

In His Hands Instituto Cervantes-https://hermes.cervantes.es/FichaWeb/118425/105

Baldomero Pestana. The Truth - Until Apr. 8th

International operastar María JoséMontiel comes to La

Zarzuela to perform piecesby the great composerJosé Padilla.

National Archaeological Museum -http://www.man.es/man/exposicion/exposiciones-temporales/poder-del-pasado.html

Naves Matadero–International Living Arts Centre -https://naves.mataderomadrid.org/es/actividades/vocaloid-opera-end

Teatro de la Zarzuela-http://www.mariajosemontiel

.com

The power of the past: 150 years ofarchaeology in Spain, Until April 1st

Mar. - Apr., 2018 - The Madrid MetropolitanMadridMetropolitan.com 5

We go from thesublime to theridiculous

with this route that will nodoubt have it’s fans. Thosewho can endure a CocidoMadrileño (a traditionalchick-pea based stew fromMadrid) are in for a treatas you run from one stop to thenext!

The Madrid Stew Route – Running (and youwill be afterwards) untill March 31st

Easter in Madrid

https://www.facebook.com/RutaDelCocidoMadrileno

From Palm Sunday to East-er Sunday, thousands ofbelievers and tourists alike

come to Madrid to attend the city´smany processions to commemo-rate the Passion and death of Jesus.

It may not be Chel-tenham or the Ken-tucky Derby but

Madrid does have a goodhorse racing scene thatkicks off with its 77th sea-son on March 4 and runsthrough till the end of theyear.

The Concierto deAranjuez is one ofthe best loved

classical pieces and cer-tainly the best knownwork of its composerJoaquín Rodrigo. It hasbeen performed countlesstimes around the worldand this time Madrid wel-comes the Argentinian guitarist Rolando Saad who will be performing itat the National Music Auditorium.

Promoconcert. Concierto de Aranjuez -April 5th

The Wanda Metropolitan(no relation to the Ma-drid Metropolitan alas)

hosts its first international game

for what could be a thrilling matchas both sides start to limber up tocompete in the World Cup in Rus-sia in a few months’ time.

International Friendly: Spain vs ArgentinaMarch 27th

Wanda Metropolitano Stadium - http://www.sefutbol.com

La Zarzuela Racecourse - http://www.hipodromodelazarzuela.es

The Conde DuqueCultural Center isthe host of this

cultural event to celebrateInternational Women’sDay with a full multidisci-plinary program that in-cludes both new andestablished female artistsfrom the world of cinema, literature, music, theatre and many otherfields.

Ellas Crean 2018 - Until April 7th

The Conde Duque Cultural Center - http://ellascrean.com

Horse Racing Season in Madrid(every Sunday until July 1st )

Madrid Half Marathon - April 8th

Over 15000 runners areexpected for the Ma-drid Half Marathon

that starts in the Paseo del Pra-do (between Neptuno Fountainand Atocha Station) on April8th. Finishing in the Retiro Parkit’s a fun day out for participantsand friends and family. http://www.mediomaratonmadrid.es

National Music Auditorium -http://promoconcert.es/index.php/es/programaci%C3%B3n-mad/concierto-

aranjuez-5

WHAT’S ON THIS SPRING IN MADRID (cont.)

Mar. - Apr., 2018 - The Madrid MetropolitanMadridMetropolitan.com6 LIVING - AROUND MADRID

John Kiddell, aformer accountantand resident of Ma-

drid, has been presentedwith a British Empire Medalfor his services to the Britishcommunity at an event heldat the Ambassador´s Resi-dence. Over five decades hehas volunteered for a wholerange of British groups andcharities in Madrid, including of-fering his accounting skills forfree, to groups as diverse as theBritish Chamber of Commerce, StGeorge’s Anglican Church, theBritish Ladies Association, theBritish Benevolent Fund, and theBritish Cemetery Committee inMadrid.

“John Kiddell stands out as oneof a kind for his sustained contri-bution to so many groups in Ma-drid over so many decades, alwaysin a humble and understated man-ner. Many of these organisationswould simply not exist today wereit not for his time and skill”, saidthe British Ambassador SimonJohn Manley CMG.

The Madrid Metropolitanwas delighted to havejoined 300 other guests at

the Spanish Irish Business Net-work St Patrick´s Ball at the iconicPalace Hotel. The Ball was theirmost successful to date and raised41,000 Euros for the two namedcharities that were being support-ed. The Peter McVerry Trust pro-vides assistance to homelessnessthroughout Ireland and the Fun-dación Rais who help an estimated8,000 people who sleep rough onSpanish city streets every night.

SIBN Saint Patrick´s Ball 2018

Some recent and future events that caught the attention ofThe Madrid Metropolitan.

SIBN Saint Patrick´s Ball 2018 - https://t.co/zqMfNQRa3R

Supermodel Caterina ar-rives in town for the RedCarpet for Eva Longoria's

Global Gift Gala which will be onMarch 22nd in Madrid Spain atthe Thyssen-Bornemisza Mu-seum. Caterina is currently a Glo-bal Arms Ambassador for theGlobal Gift foundation and willjoining numerous other celebrityAmbassadors such as Pamela An-derson, Marie Bravo, Anastaciaand Rafael Amargo for this pres-tigious event. Caterina has beenknown as an actress and model buthas lately been in the public eyewith her 4-year-old son, Prince-ton, who has just survived 2 majorbrain surgeries in the past year.Princeton’s survival story and hisstrength and resilience hastouched and inspired so manypeople around the world and they

will be having a new TV showcalled: "Achieve the Unimagina-ble” where Princeton will be takingon bucket list challenges with Ca-terina from Swimming withSharks in South Africa to IndoorSkydiving in Dubai that are unim-aginable achievements for a brainsurgery survivor.

Caterina comes to Madrid - March 22nd

Bravo John!

Mar. - Apr., 2018 - The Madrid MetropolitanMadridMetropolitan.com 7LIVING

What To Look Out For In The Coming Months

Mar. - Apr., 2018 - The Madrid MetropolitanMadridMetropolitan.com8

“My colleagues, they study arti-ficial intelligence; me, I study nat-ural stupidity” Amos Tversky

For those who have an in-terest in economics butare put off by endless

graphs and mathematical models,there’s a branch of the ‘dismal sci-ence’ which is much more accessi-ble and quite a lot more fun.Behavioural economics has beengaining recognition in recentyears, and its proponents evenmanage to make it interesting.Richard Thaler’s “Misbehaving” isas good a place as any to start.Traditional economists tend towork on the basis that by andlarge, people take rational deci-sions, and have the knowledge andexperience to choose the right one.The assumption is that enough ofus behave like “homo economicus”for their mathematical models tobe valid. Behavioural economistsquestion that; humans don’t al-ways act rationally. Thaler is oneof the leading minds in the fieldand the latest of several behaviour-al economists to win the NobelPrize for Economics. For him it is“still economics, but it is econom-ics done with strong injections ofgood psychology and other socialsciences”.

People perceive the world in bi-ased ways. Just look at how webuy cars. Or in many cases, whywe buy them. Humans havefaults; we can be lazy or over-con-fident. We are easily influenced byfriends and family, and find self-control difficult. That’s why wetake on credit card debts we can ill

afford. We have a weakness forimmediate gratification, a shamegiven that numerous studies - in-cluding the famous “StanfordMarsh-Mallow experiment” - showthat an ability to delay gratificationis a leading indicator of securityand success in later life. We havegood traits too, and these also in-fluence how we behave. A sense offairness, for example, might per-suade us to pay double for a bar of‘Fair trade’ chocolate or a pot oflocal jam. Most of us will leave atip in a restaurant even if we’reunlikely to return there. Homoeconomicus wouldn’t do that. Buy-ing decisions are mostly not basedon reason, which is why good salespeople tend not to dwell on thebenefits of their product. As con-sumers, reading up on behaviouraleconomics can teach us that buy-ing an extended warranty on ournew TV is almost never worth it.Or that if a salesperson startsshowing us the most expensivedishwasher in the store, we arelikely to end up with a more up-market model than if we were firstshown the cheapest.

The truth is that we don’t actual-ly use all available informationwhen making a decision. Themind is lazy and looks for short-cuts, known as ‘heuristics’, or whatwe also call rules of thumb, intui-tion or common sense. We processinformation using “frames” whichare personal to us but determinehow we understand an event. Ourdecisions are also framed by lan-guage – would you prefer to hear asurgeon say that your operationhas an 85% chance of success or a

15% chance of failure? Languageprimes us - experiments show thatpeople will perform better in testsif they have previously been toldstories involving high achieve-ment.

Governments have begun to seethat insights from behavioral eco-nomics can be used to improvepublic policy and its results. In-spired by Thaler’s book “Nudge”,in which he explains how smallincentives can push people intomaking decisions, the Uk govern-ment under David Cameron set upthe Behavioural Insights Team,whose aims include “enabling peo-ple to make better choices forthemselves”. That sounds almostsinister, but it has been shown tobe effective in persuading peopleto save up more for retirement, todonate organs and to pay their tax-es on time.

Followers of Spanish politics willfind little evidence of behaviouraleconomics being on the minds ofour municipal, autonomous or na-tional leaders. That’s a pity, be-cause a bit of nudging maypersuade companies into taking on

new workers and paying them adecent wage. But first politiciansneed to understand that hittingfirms with more taxes and regula-tions is not the way to go about it.On recent experience, gettingthem to grasp that will need morethan a gentle nudge.

By Roger Pike

WH Advisers – Market Entry intoSpain.

Subscribe to our regular newslet-ter on business related Spanishnews via the WH Advisers blog:http://www.whadvisers.com/blog/or follow us on Twitter@Whadvisers

www.whadvisers.com

BUSINESS

This month Madrid Metropolitan takes abrief look at Behavioural Economics

Source: https://www.behavioraleconomics.com/the-behavioral-economics-guide-2017/

Mar. - Apr., 2018 - The Madrid MetropolitanMadridMetropolitan.com 9

Modelo 720 – WHAT’S ITALL ABOUT?

In 2013, the Spanish Govern-ment launched an “anti-fraud”plan to prevent tax evasion. Al-though aimed at discovering assetsbought by Spanish nationals withirregular money, it also affectsmembers of the international com-munity living in Spain that holdassets abroad.

It is important that you don’t‘bury your heads in the sand’ re-garding this requirement, hopingthat you won’t getcaught………because eventuallyyou will.

The Modelo 720 reporting re-quirement is based on tax residen-cy; if you are deemed to be a taxresident in Spain, then this re-quirement affects you. In general,you will be deemed tax resident ifyou are in living/working in Spainfor more than 183 days a year, andremember that the onus is on you,the individual, to be able to proveotherwise to the authorities,should they decide to investigate.The reality is that in most cases, itwould be very difficult to demon-strate this to the Spanish Tax Au-thorities and so most people wouldbe deemed Spanish tax resident bythem.

WHO HAS TO REPORT?Any person, permanent estab-

lishment or company who is taxresident in Spain and is the owner,titleholder, representative, author-ised person, beneficiary, or hasdisposal powers of assets locatedoutside of Spain worth more than€50 000 (see assets below), mustreport the value of these assets.Any assets held in other currenciesmust have that value converted toEuros to gauge whether it exceedsthe Euro limit imposed.

WHEN DO YOU REPORT?Between 1 January and 31 March

of each tax year, you must submitdetails of assets from the previousyear. If you have previously report-ed your external assets on theModelo 720, then there is no needto resubmit a report every year un-less the value of any of the assetclasses has increased by €20 000or more.

WHICH ASSETS MUST BEREPORTED?

There are three main asset class-es that need to be reported if thetotal value of each class is over the€50 000 limit:

1. Bank/Building Societyaccounts located outside of Spain

– It is important to note that if youhold several bank accounts andTHE TOTAL amount held exceedsthe €50 000 limit, then ALL theaccounts need to be reported, re-gardless of whether each one isunder the limit.

2. Investments / Life or dis-ability insurance policies – If youare the owner or policyholder of aninvestment or insurance policythen these will need to be declaredif they exceed €50 000. Again,there is a requirement if you havemultiple investments or policies,that if the total value exceeds thelimit then they will all needreporting.If you are holding LifeInsurance Bonds, then the surren-der value of the policy is deemed asthe value. If you hold “pure life”policies that only pay out a benefitin the event of death and have nophysical surrender value these donot have to bereported.Interestingly if you areholding what we describe as Span-ish compliant Life InsuranceBonds, then the onus of reportingon the Modelo falls to the institu-tion themselves. They have theirown version of the Modelo to com-ply with meaning they do not nec-essarily have to go on yourindividual report.

3. Property – Owners orpart owners of an overseas proper-ty where the value exceeds the lim-it must report these properties.

WHAT IF YOU DON’T RE-PORT IN TIME / CORRECT-LY?

The Spanish Tax Authority hasimplemented a series of penaltiesfor those who do not comply withthis regulation. These penaltiescan be imposed for late filing,incomplete/inaccurate filing andeven for presenting the informa-tion to them in a way not deemedacceptable; basically, it must bedone online. These are consideredvery serious offenses and the pen-alties in these cases are fixed, gen-erally to an amount of €5 000 peritem or “set of data” on the sameasset, with a minimum of €10 000.The amount is reduced to €100(with a minimum of €1 500) if theinformation is filed late withoutprior notification from the govern-ment. Speaking to some account-ants and Gestors, they believe andhave seen fines to be around €150if you file late without any notifica-tion, but the law states differentlyso in reality the exact fine is ques-tionable.

WHAT IF YOU DON’T RE-PORT AT ALL?

Should the Spanish Tax Author-ities discover that you have assetswith a cumulative value over €50000 in any of the above asset class-es and deem that you have wilfullynot disclosed this information,penalties are imposed. In somecases the fines issued are as high as150% of the value of the unde-clared assets!!!! It is also impor-tant to note that there is no statuteof limitations when it comes to theModelo 720 so there is no limit tohow far back they can go…………

There have been numerous com-plaints about the unfairness of theModelo 720 and the fines beingimposed. The European commis-sion has been in discussion withthe Spanish Tax Authority to re-duce the fines. The latest I haveheard is that the 150% penalty ofundisclosed assets would notstand and would be reduced to thelower fine levels, providing the as-sets were reported voluntarily,which just means it falls from theundisclosed category to the latereporting category and doesn’thelp those caught not declaring.The Tax Authority is pushing forpeople to report their assets volun-tarily, maybe there will be softersanctions in the future but for now,this is how it stands.

If you want to discuss how toreport the Modelo 720 please feelfree to get in touch. I work closelywith a qualified accountant in Ma-drid who can file on your behalf ifthere is a requirement to do so.

The Spectrum IFA Groupwas established in January 2003.Our independent financial plan-ning advisers demonstrate theirlong-term commitment to boththeir clients and the locality by re-siding permanently within thecommunity in which they work.They have an understanding of ex-pat life and the particular financialrules that apply in your country.Our advisers are qualified, experi-enced and regulated. In total wehave over 50 financial advisersacross Europe, fully supported byadministration and complianceteams.

Our role is to create and providesolutions for expatriates and for-eign residents by way of a broadrange of financial products andservices. These include currencyexchange, bank accounts, tax effi-cient investments and savings,wealth management, QROPS, pen-sions, medical insurance and more.

chris.webb@spectrum-ifa.com

Modelo 720 Reporting - Advice from The Spectrum IFA GroupFINANCE

Mar. - Apr., 2018 - The Madrid MetropolitanMadridMetropolitan.com10 CULTURE - HIDDEN MADRID

Valle de los Caídos (Valley ofthe Fallen), why was it built andfor what purpose?

Driving north westwardsout of Madrid, on the A6La Coruña road, ap-

proaching the Sierra Guadarrama,there looms a monolith of enlarg-ing proportions – the largest crossin the world dominating the hori-zon. If this is your first sight of themonolith, curiosity will lead you tothe valley where the cross is built.Stepping out onto a wide espla-nade (esplanada) you will be em-braced by a curved colonnade ofevenly spaced columns, sometimesreferred to as ‘angel’s wings’ orthose of a ‘vulture’ depending onyour first impressions. Enteringthe main crypt is sepulchral, thelong high vaulted tunnel is dimlylit and imposing, leading to thebeacon-lighted Basilica at the dis-tant end.

The Valley of the Fallen is a Cath-olic basilica and a monumentalmemorial in the municipality ofSan Lorenzo de El Escorial. It wasconceived by Spanish dictatorFrancisco Franco to honour andbury those who died in the SpanishCivil War. Franco claimed that themonument was meant to be a ‘na-tional act of atonement’ andreconciliation.The Valley of theFallen, as a surviving monumentof Franco's rule, and its Catholicbasilica remain controversial, in

part since 10% of the constructionworkforce consisted of convicts,some of whom were Spanish Re-publican political prisoners.

The monument precinct coversover 3,360 acres (13.6 km2) ofwoodlands and granite bouldersand stands more than 3,000 feet(910 m) above sea level. It in-cludes a Basilica, a BenedictineAbbey, a guest house and four cy-lindrical granite columns (Juane-los) dating back to the 16thcentury. The most prominent fea-ture of the monument is the tower-ing 150-metre-high (500 ft) crosserected over a granite outcrop and150 meters over the basilica espla-nade and visible from over 20miles (32 km) away.

Works started in 1940 and tookover eighteen years to complete,with the monument being official-ly inaugurated on April 1, 1959.According to the official ledger, thecost of the construction totalled1,159 million pesetas (nearly 7 mil-lion Euros), funded through na-tional lottery draws and donations.The complex is owned and operat-ed by the Patrimonio Nacional, theSpanish governmental heritageagency, and ranked as the thirdmost visited monument after TheRoyal Palace in Madrid and El Es-corial. In 1960, Pope John XXIIIdeclared the underground crypt abasilica. The dimensions of thisunderground basilica, as excavat-ed, are larger than those of St. Pe-

ter's Basilica in Rome. To avoidcompetition with the apostle'sgrave church on the Vatican Hill, apartitioning wall was built near theinside of the entrance and a sizableentryway was left unconsecrated.On the wrought-iron entrancegates, Franco's neo-Habsburgdouble-headed eagle is prominent-ly displayed. On entering the ba-silica, visitors are flanked by twolarge metal statues of art deco an-gels holding swords.

There is a funicular that connectsthe basilica with the base of thecross. A spiral staircase and a liftare inside the cross, connecting thetop of the basilica dome to a trap-door on top of the cross, but theiruse is restricted to maintenancestaff. The Benedictine Abbey of the

Holy Cross of the Valley of the Fall-en (Abadía Benedictina de la SantaCruz del Valle de los Caídos), onthe other side of the mountain,houses priests who say perpetualMasses for the repose of the fallenof the Spanish Civil War as well asfor later wars and peacekeepingmissions fought by the RoyalSpanish Army. The Abbey ranks asa Royal Monastery. Within theValley itself, preserved as a nation-al park, lie the remains of 40,000people from both sides of the civilwar and whose names are account-ed for in the monument's register.The Basilica houses the tomb ofFrancisco Franco who died in 1975and although it was not his wish tobe buried there, his family and theGovernment of the time interredhis remains there. Strangely, onlyhis Christian name and first sur-name is engraved on the tomb. Theonly other tomb is that of José An-tonio Primo de Rivera, one of thefounders of the Falange Española,the fascist political party formed in1933.

According to the official programrecords, 2,643 workers participat-ed directly in the construction,some of them highly skilled, as re-quired by the complexity of thework. Only 243 of these were con-victs and contrary to them being‘forced labour’ they were given thechance that for every day workedthey would have two days, laterincreased to seventeen, deductedfrom their prison term. They werealso paid the same as labourers onthe works. The Valley of the Fallenhas been a political and emotionalfootball between the opposing po-litical parties for many years butfinally the Historical Memory Law,voted on by the Congress of Depu-ties on October 16th 2007 decreedthat ‘the management organisa-tion of the Valley of the Fallenshould aim to honour the memoryof ALL of those who died duringthe civil war and who suffered re-pression’.

A visit to the Valley of the Fallenis to witness a unique and unfor-gettable experience.

By Barry Haslam-WalkerFRICS

Why ‘Valle De Los Caídos’?

Mar. - Apr., 2018 - The Madrid MetropolitanMadridMetropolitan.com 11

death, or perhaps to plunge into acold merciless sea.

Which brings us on to the actualflight. Like industrial livestockfarmers, airlines have designedtheir freightage so that as manyitems as possible can be packed inwithout causing too many deathsduring transit. So, aside from theodd casualty to deep vein throm-bosis, you are unlikely to actuallydie while rammed into your deeplyuncomfortable seat, although onlonger flights you may wish to. Theplane like the airport itself is amicrocosm of the class system andin keeping with the neo liberalmodel has been divided into amplespaces for the very rich and muchsmaller spaces for the masses.However, lately there has been anattempt to create a tiny middleclass by charging more for a fewinches of extra legroom in selectseats near the toilets. Once we areall strapped in, knees jammedagainst the seat in front, elbowsjockeying for space on the armrest,the inane safety demonstration be-gins, designed solely to create theillusion that you might actuallysurvive a crash. After the tedioustaxi to the runway which in Ma-drid often has you wonderingwhether you should have taken thebus to Casablanca, or just walked,you will eventually experience takeoff, whereupon the more sensitiveamong us tend to reflect on thefact that we have placed ourselvesin the hands of an over evolvedprimate, who may be subject to

feelings of depression and despair,or even in possession of a Freud-ian death wish.

Of the flight itself I have little tosay because very little happens.Throughout the ordeal you will beoffered “refreshments”, whichonce again illustrate just howmuch an effective business loves atrapped consumer. If you candrink and drug your way throughit all then I recommend that youdo so. Heavy turbulence mayawake you from the stultifyingboredom although it may alsoforce you to confront the existen-tial terror of mortality at 30,000feet, and the futility and randomnature of existence. If not, then onlonger flights you might watch acrap film with crap sound on acrap screen, or if you are a smugbastard you might lose yourself inyour IPad. If however, Dear Read-er, you are able to submit to thecohorts of the cabin crew and actu-ally “enjoy the flight” then you areeither a fucking idiot, or a danger-ous lunatic, and should probablynot be on a plane.

In any case perhaps one day wewill meet, shuffling joylesslythrough the Adolfo Suarez BarajasMadrid International Airport onour way to a shopping precinctsomewhere out there in the greatwide world.

I wish you a safe and pleasantjourney.

For the modern bourgeois, ormaybe not so bourgeois, travellerthere can be few greater horrorsin modern life than flying. Theemergence of cheap air travel hastransformed our lives and ena-bled us to spread out across theglobe and turn all those places weused to try to escape to into evercloser imitations of the places wewere trying to escape from..

A weekend break to Buda-pest has become as pro-saic as a 1970s day at the

seaside, while even in the mostexotic of locations we find versionsof ourselves everywhere, as well asprices that increasingly make usfeel very much at home, as localsobey the first law of economics,which is to “always fleece the visi-tor.” Madrid is not immune fromthe ravages of EasyJet and Rya-nair. Visitors can now reassuring-ly find the same shops here as theycan find everywhere else, and notrip to the Puerta del Sol is com-plete without a visit to the giantApple Store where you can relaxand mingle with the locals, as yousign up together to eternal corpo-rate servitude. A wide range of fastfood establishments are also busyputting traditional Spanish barsout of business as the citizens ofEurope and the wider world, cometogether at the great global troughto enjoy a random selection of paleimitations of once proud local cui-sines.

And of course you can now do allthis in English. In fact, you haveto. As a foreigner, you are an auto-matic target for a new generationof Spanish waiters anxious topractice their English speakingskills, with the hope of perhapsone day forming part of the flexi-ble and fully mobile Europeanworkforce that has enabled somany young Spaniards to enjoythe experience of precarious lowpaid work in London and beyond.

But devastating as ubiquitouscheap air travel has been for theactual destinations, the horrors ofglobalisation pale into insignifi-cance compared to the actual proc-ess of air transportation itself.Actually, the trip to and from thesnappily named Adolfo SuarezBarajas Madrid International Air-port is not bad if you go by metro.It’s fast and cheap, and certainlybetter value than the Gatwick Ex-press where your wallet is primedon arrival in the UK for the torturethat awaits once you actually get toLondon. Driving to Madrid airportthough is another matter. Spanishroad signs, junctions, and sliproads have traditionally been de-signed by sadistic halfwits to causemaximum confusion and hopeful-ly the odd crash, but the signage tothe airport is a particularly mag-nificent effort, a piece de resist-ance in the art of confusion. Thereis however, the option of the toll

road, built specifically for the gul-lible, or those in desperate need ofsaving 30 seconds.

Once you are at the airport itselfit’s the usual existential night-mare. If you are dropping some-one off, or worse still waiting forsomeone, then the usual heavilyarmed Spanish police are on handto force you into the carpark wherewill you meet armies of lost soulstrying to work out how to pay(whatever you do, don’t follow thesigns.) Then the usual fun andgames ensue of trying to get awaywith hand luggage that cannot fitinto the geometrically absurd sam-ple containers that budget airlineshave placed for your convenienceso they can penalise you with asmile if you require more than atoothbrush for your travels. Andthen on to security where you willbe stripped of all liquids, and ofcourse of all human dignity.

Airports themselves are merereflections of wider society, andMadrid is no exception. There arelots of shops for very rich people,and a Burger King for the plebsalthough the stylish and deeplyconfusing T4 has a McDonalds. Inessence it is all a microcosm of theneo liberal nightmare. There areactually free water fountains butthey have been set up with a flowso weak you would be better offsucking on a pebble. The inevita-ble thirst and frustration is ofcourse, designed to force you intopaying for the overpriced bottlesof water available at multiplevending machines. Neo liberalismloves a consumer, particularly atrapped consumer suffering fromdehydration. As you will have beenpanicked into arriving hours be-fore your inevitably delayed flightyou will have plenty of time to buya couple of Hugo Boss shirts, aBurberry scarf, or a few of bottlesof Chanel Bleu and single maltScotch. If you are a pleb then youcan satiate your lust for consump-tion by buying three massive to-blerones for the price of two. It isan established fact that the To-blerone family have shares in allEuropean airports. Or you can justsit there, waiting to be herdedaboard the metal tube, and con-template what it would be like tohurtle to the ground in a terrifying

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Sky High

Seabream with Leeks, Mushrooms, Cream and Samphire - By Jemima Butler

Butler’s CateringWhatever your event, you’ll wantthe personal touch.A mother and daughter businessthat for 40 years has been deliv-

ering the best in Madrid andLondon

www.butlerscatering.net

Mar. - Apr., 2018 - The Madrid MetropolitanMadridMetropolitan.com12 RECIPE

Lent is the time when we aresupposed to pay penance and ex-ercise self-denial as preparationfor Easter when we then give in toeating vast amounts of meat andchocolate!

As a tradition in Lent manypeople talk about givingsomething up, whether

chocolate, alcohol, smoking orwhatever other delicious naughtyhabit they enjoy. I have often spo-ken about doing it myself and haveeven tried, maybe to give up choc-olate or wine but have never madeit last. This year however I decidedfor the first time ever to properly

give up something during Lentand that was giving up eating meat.

Living in Madrid there is aplethora of fantastic restaurants.Whether you just want a quick ta-pas and a beer or a very substantial3-course meal with wine andbread included you can find alltypes of eateries on the samestreet. You can never be far from abar serving something that yourtaste buds will come alive with,even if that may just be the bestcrisps or olives ever and a bril-liantly served caña.

That’s why I knew that whilstgiving up meat for the 40 days ofLent I would not go hungry. I

Recipe: Seabream with Leeks,Mushrooms, Cream and Samphire

Ingredients2 tablespoons of olive oil1 large shallot - finely chopped1 Leek - the white part - only finely chopped3 Portobello Mushrooms – thinly slicedWhite wine or Jerez – one small glassSamphire optional – small handfulSeabream – 2 filletsCream – 2 tablespoonsSalt and Pepper - to taste

would eat fish which I love. Ma-drid has some of the best fresh fishin Europe and it is often comparedto Tokyo for this reason, as geo-graphically it is in the centre of thepeninsular and not near any coast.

The fish counters in the localmarkets in Spain are a work of art,so beautiful, they make you wantto stare in wonder…. the glimmer-ing ice and the spray of waterkeeping the fish glistening and theshells of the seafood looking brightand shiny.

The weekends are always thebest at the fishmongers. They getfancy at the weekends knowingthat the cooks of the householdswill be ready to spend more moneyand get something special for thelarge family weekend lunches.They bring in the top expensivefish; whole tunas, fresh enough toeat there and then, turbot, hake,amazing fresh prawns and all sortsof cockles, clams and barnacles forwhoever is brave enough and forwhoever knows what to do withthem!

When I am in the queue waitingto be served, I wait fantasisingabout all the different recipes Icould make with the differentfresh produce and find it hard tochoose only a small quantity offish or seafood to go home withand create delicious variations ofdifferent recipes. I don’t like tobuy too much as it really is bestto eat fish and shellfish totallyfresh.

There are many flavours thatgo really well with fish and sea-food. Some of the obvious oneslike, lemon, garlic, onion, cream,capers then meaty ones like ba-con, chorizo and jamón…not for-getting fresh herbs; parsley,chives and dill. For somethingtotally different and delicioususe fish and seafood in curriesfor a change.

I like to cook fish and seafoodwith different sauces, sole meu-nier, rich butter sauce with ca-pers, mackerel with spicy tomatosauce and long spanish greenpeppers, (or even fresh chillies)gambas al ajillo, prawns withgarlic, chilli and parsley, Atún en

Tomate, tuna in a rich tomatosauce, Merluza a la Vasca, bakedhake with potatoes, olive oil withconfit garlic and pimentón. Thelist goes on.

As you probably know depend-ing on when Easter falls, Lent fallsat a different time each year. Thisyear Lent started on February 14thand ends on March 29th. As I friedup the bacon for Sunday Brunch,my children reminded me that Istill have another 18 days to gobefore I can have any.

I thought I would share with youa recipe which celebrates the deli-cacy of a seabream, (dorada), a flatwhite fish, easy to find in the fish-mongers in Spain. I have matchedit with a creamy sauce and slowlypoached vegetables in olive oil andsome white wine or light dry sher-ry. I have found a greengrocerswhich sells Samphire also knownas sea asparagus (for those of youwho don’t know - it’s a plant whichgrows near the coast and it has acrisp and salty flavour) so I decid-ed to add that at the last minute toadd a slight crunch and saltinessto the sauce. It fits very well withfish.

MethodPour the oil into a large frying.

On a low heat fry the shallot andlet gently soften. Add the leeksand mushrooms and slowly poachin the olive oil. When the onionsare transparent and the vegeta-bles are softened add the glass ofwhite wine or sherry. Turn up theheat to let the whole pan bubbleaway to burn off the alcohol andreduce to half. Once reduced turndown the heat and stir in thecream. Making sure the sauce ittotally homogenised, add thesamphire and stir in. Place the

Seabream on top and submerge ita little, cover the pan with a lid orgently with tin foil to let the fishcook in the sauce and steam. Thisshould not take more than 5 min-utes. It is easy to overcook. Youwant the fish to be just cookedthrough and the samphire stillwith a bit of a bite.

I served this with a gentle saf-fron risotto. It is also lovelyserved with either steamed pota-toes, baked sweet potatoes orfluffy white rice to mop up thesauce.

Happy Easter!

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