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Lower Saddle Approach 2014

FALL 2014 ONWARDS 

Fall has hit the Tetons with winter not far beind. With a storm, hikers and climbers to

the Lower Saddle could easily encounter snow, ice, whiteout and below freezingconditions. Keep in mind the decreasing amount of daylight as we continue moving

towards the winter solstice. Crampons and ice axe may be advisable as conditions

change.

SEPTEMBER 6, 2014 

The approach to the Lower Saddle has dried out after the most recent storm on August

31st. Conditions above the Lower Saddle remain snowy/icy.

 AUGUST 24, 2014 

 Approach is dry except for a bit of ice/water at the fixed lines. Continuous fall-like

 weather has dropped 8 inches of snow at the Lower Saddle and Grand Teton. A full day

of solar radiation will be needed to dry all the routes. Chimneys and ledges could remain

icy for the remainder of the season.

 AUGUST 13, 2014 

Conditions persist per last entry. Many climbers chose to climb the fixed line with theirhelmets strapped to their packs rather than on their heads. Rockfall does occur in this

area.

 AUGUST 5, 2014 

Route to the fixed lines is melted out. Beware of rockfall. Please stay on the trail that

heads to the watering hole to protect the vegetation. Traverse South above the fixed

lines.

JULY 29, 2014 

 Axe and crampons are no longer required to reach the Lower Saddle and climbers have

transitioned into using the "summer" route and fixed line. Keep on your toes for rockfall

through the Upper Moraine, especially during or after rain events.

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JULY 17, 2014 

Both routes ("winter" & "summer") continue to be used above the Meadows and both

 ways require dealing with steep snow and loose rock. The bootpack across the headwall

 below the Lower Saddle remains the preferred route as the fixed line is not yet melted

out completely. Ice axe remains STRONGLY RECOMMENDED!

Headwall above the Meadows - "winter" route on far left; "summer" route right of waterfall - 7/17/14 

Climbers crossing steep snow on the "summer" route above the Meadows just prior to the Caves - 7/15/14 

http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-IIl3VQEO9zY/U8hCHhJtZbI/AAAAAAAADCA/6zhT1B0nELk/s1600/IMG_3841.JPGhttp://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Y8IZ1Il39jU/U8hBViN-YFI/AAAAAAAADB4/StRtHEvSQa8/s1600/IMG_3874.JPG

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Headwall below Lower Saddle - 7/17/14 

JULY 8, 2014 The "winter route" up to the Lower Saddle is still being used but melting out quickly- be

aware of the possibility of moats and failing snow bridges. Some are venturing onto the

summer route- take care on these steep snow slopes. The headwall's fixed line is slowly

melting out but not yet fully exposed and the rocks are very wet. The bootpack across

the headwall is the preferred method of travel. Ice axe and crampons still

recommended.

Headwall

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-XIfHtDYDRns/U7xR_UVV22I/AAAAAAAAC3k/ofct5bNyLlA/s1600/ApproachLowerSaddle.JPGhttp://2.bp.blogspot.com/-YFEvdxHI1qI/U8hCwuPZVpI/AAAAAAAADCI/8245XwTToz8/s1600/IMG_3870.JPG

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JULY 2, 2014 

Summer route up to Petzoldt Caves 

 Winter route below the Middle Teton

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5Gg1ag-nazg/U7l83fdboaI/AAAAAAAACxw/o7Bks7lZ0fU/s1600/LS+patrol+july+2-3rd+2014+157.JPGhttp://1.bp.blogspot.com/-GCCLRvPTylc/U7l83akUx_I/AAAAAAAACxs/SvWRDErdP6I/s1600/LS+patrol+july+2-3rd+2014+156.JPG

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Close up of winter route

 View looking down on the Meadows camping zone from the Winter Route

JULY 1, 2014 

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-TGpelApUvfs/U7mBwP2h9KI/AAAAAAAACy8/wUC_AQFXhDo/s1600/LS+patrol+july+2-3rd+2014+152.JPGhttp://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4t3EqnBmagY/U7l82y1t13I/AAAAAAAACxo/CF620_yGNi4/s1600/LS+patrol+july+2-3rd+2014+155.JPG

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