Life in an eastern town (part 2)
1
NEWS 12 Tuesday, May 10, 2011 | Western People T he Japanese I have encountered are incredibly diligent, dedicated and perhaps somewhat socially bound by their careers. The ‘sensei’, with whom I work, are in truth more like a third parent. They have a very high standing in the local community and are considered role models in every aspect of their behaviour. Up until very recently, it was common for a teacher of a student who got into difficulty with the law to be contacted before their parents were. It is also the responsibility of the ‘sensei’ to visit each student’s house and instruct the child’s parents on what items need to be purchased in order to create a suitable study area for the child. This is promptly done – without question – by the gracious parents. This high standing in the community however does come at a price. ‘Sensei’ are of course held to a higher standard by the local community and as such, seem to work extremely late hours and very rarely remain at home due to sickness. In fact, one of my colleagues came into school one day wearing a hygienic mask and barely able to talk due to severe influenza. She somehow struggled through, teaching two morning classes, after which I enquired if she would go home to bed. She matter of factly replied that she had made an appointment to admit herself into the local hospital that afternoon – but only after she had taught her classes! Another colleague of mine informed me that she herself returned home at 12 midnight every night for a week, due to a “busy schedule”! It’s no wonder the Japanese have invented a word for death caused by overworking (Kar-shi)! ***** Everyday life here, luckily, does not prove as strenuous for a foreign English teacher and one is not expected to work such late hours, nor vouch for his students down at the local police station! My daily routine usually consists of getting to grips with the Japanese language, mastering the art of the chopstick and entertaining large groups of elementary school kids, who teach you what it must be like to be an international celebrity. So often I enter the Japanese elementary schools to the cries of ‘Brian Sensei’ and I am instantly mauled by about 50 six-year-old kids looking for a high five, autographs or desperate to show me their new comic books. It is very amusing as they look up at you, utterly perplexed as to why you cannot understand a word they are saying. I have also been lucky enough to become friendly with a local chef in the town. Ebara San, the 60-year-old owner and head chef – or ‘master’ as he is referred to by the Japanese – is a keen English practitioner. He has spent 10 years studying and practicing his culinary trade in Kyoto and his food is quite simply sublime. I have become somewhat of a regular at his local restaurant and he often treats me to famous Japanese delicacies and the now customary post-meal cup of coffee, free of charge. He is very interested in European culture and I am generally embroiled in conversation with him regarding the differences between western and Japanese lifestyles. Japanese food is incredibly healthy and the care taken in its presentation is an art in itself. Like many other aspects of Japanese culture, perfection, form and order are of the upmost importance. ***** I have also had the opportunity to venture out of my small town surrounds and head for some of the major Japanese cities during the holidays and long weekends. Hiroshima, with its haunting Genbaku Dome – the only surviving building from the atomic bombing of 1945, located in the beautiful, tranquil surrounds of peace park – was one of my first stops. Osaka, a vibrant, energetic city and Japan’s second largest commercial centre after Tokyo, is also home to the extremely impressive ‘Osaka-jo’ (Osaka Castle). It is renowned for its outgoing, extroverted natives and has a much more laid back atmosphere than Tokyo. When I asked a stranger for directions on arriving at Osaka station, naturally, I was walked 20 minutes directly to the front door of my hotel and politely bombarded with questions by the fascinated native, as to what I was doing there! After leaving Osaka, I made my way to nearby Kyoto. It is said to be Japan’s cultural heart and certainly the most beautiful city I have ever seen in my life, with sublimely crafted temples, Zen gardens, ‘Sakura’ (cherry blossom) trees in full bloom and a rich sense of history and tradition. The area of Gion in Kyoto is like an old Japanese film set; lantern lit streets, lined with beautiful traditional style wooden houses, restaurants and inns, many decorated with sumptuous gardens. The city is truly an incredible feast for the eyes and retains so much of quintessential Japanese heritage. I stayed two nights in Kyoto, one of which I spent resting up in a Zen temple – probably the cheapest place to stay in Kyoto and it proved a great way to get a feel for traditional Japanese culture. The temple is run by an English speaking Japanese monk, Kawakami Sensei, who is a most welcoming host and eager to teach westerners about the practices of Zen. Along with staying in a most comfortable room, equipped with air conditioning, shower facilities and even wi-fi (temples hooked to the internet, welcome to modern Japan!), guests are also treated to a half-hour early morning instruction in the practice of Zen meditation. The object of which is “to empty one’s mind of conscious thought and purge oneself of the delusion of the ego, which is believed to be the root of all human suffering”... or something to that effect! Zen is unusual in that, although stemming from a Buddhist tradition, is not so much a religion, as a practical form of mental training. Kawakami Sensei explained how the ‘Samurai’ (18th century Japanese warriors), used these meditation techniques to become completely detached from worldly attainments, become one with their sword and ultimately conquer any fear of death. It is said that the Samurai first became interested in meditation as a result of witnessing the extraordinary courage of the monks, whose temples they were on occasion sent to burn down, due to some political unrest. Very often the monks remained sitting in deep meditation, completely unperturbed, as the buildings burned down around them. It was also fascinating to learn that many of the Samurai who practiced meditation resigned their prestigious positions from the Samurai ‘class’ on realising the futility of killing and became monks themselves. Many of the principles of Zen are still bound with the martial arts in Japan today and particularly found in Karate-do, Kendo, Judo and Aikido, amongst many others. In any case, the practice proved extremely difficult, both mentally and physically, due to the cross legged sitting posture one must adopt but it was incredibly relaxing and a worthwhile experience nonetheless. ***** Finally, I made a trip to Miya-Jima with some fellow English teachers who live in a nearby city, to see the famous ‘Tori Gate’. We took a short ferry ride across the bay in close to Arctic conditions but it was most certainly worth it for the beauty which lay before us. Miya-Jima Island – unsurpassable, breathtaking and enchanting, are the only words which come to mind to convey what I saw there. The gate itself stands proud in the waters to the front of the island and leads one to the fabulous Itsukushima-Shinto Shrine, lying on the shore. The island is a natural paradise, laden with wild plants, forests, rivers, animals and trees of every variety. Nestled amongst the natural splendour, are temples, shrines and statues of which one could assign the description, sheer architectural masterpieces and still fail to be overly generous. Many of them have been assigned as UNESCO World Heritage Sites. ***** It was not long after this in fact, that the tragic events of the now infamous earthquake, tsunami and radiation leaks unfolded. As I entered the staff room of one of my schools, after teaching my final class of the day, I was immediately struck by the sight of several teachers standing around the television set, watching the news reports. Although I watched the reports for almost an hour, it was of course all in Japanese and the seriousness of the situation perhaps did not sink in until later that evening when I returned home and began to watch the BBC news over the internet. I called my friends in Tokyo to make sure they were ok. One was stuck on the subway after the tremors had shut the trains down. They had to get out of the train and walk down the tracks to the next station, but luckily escaped without injury. Another friend of mine was on one of the top floors of a downtown skyscraper in Tokyo. He experienced the violent shaking, from the precarious heights where he found himself, but luckily the building – designed for just such an occurrence – remained structurally sound. He ended up spending the next two nights in his office, as the trains were out of service. I eventually got through to everyone I knew in Tokyo, although it took several hours due to the jammed phone lines. Luckily, all were unharmed. Being located in Hiroshima, some four hours south east of Tokyo by ‘Shinkansen’ (bullet train), I was luckily unaffected by the disaster. What struck me in the immediate aftermath was the sense of order, presence of mind and stoicism of the Japanese people. Although I had previously witnessed such behaviour amidst the chaos of Tokyo, to see people behave in such a well mannered, polite and controlled fashion throughout a crisis of such epic proportions was almost inconceivable. Queues formed at supermarkets, petrol stations and shelters. Nobody in line complained when shops were closed due to the food shortages or petrol being sold out – despite having queued for several hours. There was no looting or fighting over food. The way people behaved, with such emotional reserve in the aftermath of the devastation which they suffered, really is testament to the qualities which Japanese people possess. The focus here is now on rebuilding the destruction which was caused and helping those who have suffered. In almost every shop, restaurant and business there is a collection of some sort to support those in need. All the schools I have taught in have newspaper articles relating to the disaster hung on the walls as a sign of remembrance and solidarity. The hope is that they can rebuild quickly, recover from this tragic occurrence and provide aid for those most in need. ***** I will return home on August 18 next, for my final year in university. No doubt the adjustment period or ‘reverse culture shock’ as it is often dubbed, may indeed prove more difficult than the initial move to Japan. Bowing at every opportunity (even while driving!), eating and sleeping on the ground, dining with chopsticks, changing from outdoor to indoor shoes every time I enter a building, eating raw fish and being referred to as ‘Brian Sensei’, has become such a part and parcel of everyday life, its unusual nature rarely even registers in my mind any longer. However, it will of course be fantastic to return home, see family and friends, eat some homemade food, sleep in a real bed and speak English at full speed! Time is passing very quickly and the weeks seem to be slipping by. Before returning home I will experience Japan’s rainy season and its notoriously humid summer months. I hope to conquer Mount Fuji, travel to some more parts of the country and continue training in karate. My time here so far has been immense and I’m certain the remaining months will be no different. I have learned much about my own country, along with that of Japan’s. Living here is such a contrast; it’s like holding up a mirror to your own culture and for the first time beginning to appreciate its good and bad qualities. Hopefully, I will return home a little older, wiser and, as the saying goes, ‘with a new pair of eyes’, plenty having been learned from the Japanese people and their truly fascinating way of life. Slán go fóill and sayonara, Brian Foody ([email protected]) 21-year-old Castleconnor native and UL economics student Brian Foody is currently on work placement in Japan. In part two of a two-part series, he tells us more about life in the Northern Pacific. Japanese adventure: The concluding part of a two-part series Life in an Eastern town Life in an Eastern town Chozu-Bachi: Purification ritual before entering the temple. Kinkaku-ji Temple (Golden Pavilion) Miyajima, Tori Gate Getting a lift – Japanese-style! Brian meeting some Geisha girls in Kyoto. Enjoying Japanese hospitality. Brian practising karate with the snow-capped Mount Fuji in the background.
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Japan part 2-Brian Foody
Transcript of Life in an eastern town (part 2)
NEWS12Tuesday, May 10, 2011 | Western People
The Japanese I have encountered areincredibly diligent, dedicated andperhaps somewhat socially bound by
their careers. The ‘sensei’, with whom I work,are in truth more like a third parent. Theyhave a very high standing in the localcommunity and are considered role models inevery aspect of their behaviour. Up until veryrecently, it was common for a teacher of astudent who got into difficulty with the law tobe contacted before their parents were. It isalso the responsibility of the ‘sensei’ to visiteach student’s house and instruct the child’sparents on what items need to be purchased inorder to create a suitable study area for thechild. This is promptly done – without question– by the gracious parents.
This high standing in the communityhowever does come at a price. ‘Sensei’ are ofcourse held to a higher standard by the localcommunity and as such, seem to workextremely late hours and very rarely remain athome due to sickness. In fact, one of mycolleagues came into school one day wearing ahygienic mask and barely able to talk due tosevere influenza. She somehow struggledthrough, teaching two morning classes, afterwhich I enquired if she would go home to bed.She matter of factly replied that she had madean appointment to admit herself into the localhospital that afternoon – but only after she hadtaught her classes!
Another colleague of mine informed me thatshe herself returned home at 12 midnightevery night for a week, due to a “busyschedule”! It’s no wonder the Japanese haveinvented a word for death caused byoverworking (Kar-shi)!
*****
Everyday life here, luckily, does not prove asstrenuous for a foreign English teacher andone is not expected to work such late hours,nor vouch for his students down at the localpolice station! My daily routine usuallyconsists of getting to grips with the Japaneselanguage, mastering the art of the chopstickand entertaining large groups of elementaryschool kids, who teach you what it must be liketo be an international celebrity. So often I enterthe Japanese elementary schools to the cries of‘Brian Sensei’ and I am instantly mauled byabout 50 six-year-old kids looking for a highfive, autographs or desperate to show me theirnew comic books. It is very amusing as theylook up at you, utterly perplexed as to why youcannot understand a word they are saying.
I have also been lucky enough to becomefriendly with a local chef in the town. EbaraSan, the 60-year-old owner and head chef – or‘master’ as he is referred to by the Japanese –is a keen English practitioner. He has spent 10years studying and practicing his culinarytrade in Kyoto and his food is quite simplysublime. I have become somewhat of a regular
at his local restaurant and he often treats me tofamous Japanese delicacies and the nowcustomary post-meal cup of coffee, free ofcharge. He is very interested in Europeanculture and I am generally embroiled inconversation with him regarding thedifferences between western and Japaneselifestyles.
Japanese food is incredibly healthy and thecare taken in its presentation is an art in itself.Like many other aspects of Japanese culture,perfection, form and order are of the upmostimportance.
*****
I have also had the opportunity to ventureout of my small town surrounds and head forsome of the major Japanese cities during theholidays and long weekends. Hiroshima, withits haunting Genbaku Dome – the onlysurviving building from the atomic bombing of1945, located in the beautiful, tranquilsurrounds of peace park – was one of my firststops. Osaka, a vibrant, energetic city andJapan’s second largest commercial centre afterTokyo, is also home to the extremelyimpressive ‘Osaka-jo’ (Osaka Castle). It isrenowned for its outgoing, extroverted nativesand has a much more laid back atmospherethan Tokyo. When I asked a stranger fordirections on arriving at Osaka station,naturally, I was walked 20 minutes directly tothe front door of my hotel and politelybombarded with questions by the fascinatednative, as to what I was doing there!
After leaving Osaka, I made my way tonearby Kyoto. It is said to be Japan’s culturalheart and certainly the most beautiful city Ihave ever seen in my life, with sublimelycrafted temples, Zen gardens, ‘Sakura’ (cherryblossom) trees in full bloom and a rich sense ofhistory and tradition. The area of Gion inKyoto is like an old Japanese film set; lanternlit streets, lined with beautiful traditional stylewooden houses, restaurants and inns, manydecorated with sumptuous gardens. The city istruly an incredible feast for the eyes andretains so much of quintessential Japaneseheritage.
I stayed two nights in Kyoto, one of which Ispent resting up in a Zen temple – probably thecheapest place to stay in Kyoto and it proved agreat way to get a feel for traditional Japaneseculture. The temple is run by an Englishspeaking Japanese monk, Kawakami Sensei,
who is a most welcoming host and eager toteach westerners about the practices of Zen.Along with staying in a most comfortableroom, equipped with air conditioning, showerfacilities and even wi-fi (temples hooked to theinternet, welcome to modern Japan!), guestsare also treated to a half-hour early morninginstruction in the practice of Zen meditation.The object of which is “to empty one’s mind ofconscious thought and purge oneself of thedelusion of the ego, which is believed to be theroot of all human suffering”... or something tothat effect! Zen is unusual in that, althoughstemming from a Buddhist tradition, is not somuch a religion, as a practical form of mentaltraining.
Kawakami Sensei explained how the‘Samurai’ (18th century Japanese warriors),used these meditation techniques to becomecompletely detached from worldly attainments,become one with their sword and ultimatelyconquer any fear of death. It is said that theSamurai first became interested in meditationas a result of witnessing the extraordinarycourage of the monks, whose temples theywere on occasion sent to burn down, due tosome political unrest. Very often the monks
remained sitting in deep meditation,completely unperturbed, as the buildingsburned down around them.
It was also fascinating to learn that many ofthe Samurai who practiced meditationresigned their prestigious positions from theSamurai ‘class’ on realising the futility ofkilling and became monks themselves. Many ofthe principles of Zen are still bound with themartial arts in Japan today and particularlyfound in Karate-do, Kendo, Judo and Aikido,amongst many others. In any case, the practiceproved extremely difficult, both mentally andphysically, due to the cross legged sittingposture one must adopt but it was incrediblyrelaxing and a worthwhile experiencenonetheless.
*****
Finally, I made a trip to Miya-Jima withsome fellow English teachers who live in anearby city, to see the famous ‘Tori Gate’. Wetook a short ferry ride across the bay in closeto Arctic conditions but it was most certainlyworth it for the beauty which lay before us.Miya-Jima Island – unsurpassable,breathtaking and enchanting, are the onlywords which come to mind to convey what Isaw there. The gate itself stands proud in thewaters to the front of the island and leads oneto the fabulous Itsukushima-Shinto Shrine,lying on the shore.
The island is a natural paradise, laden withwild plants, forests, rivers, animals and trees ofevery variety. Nestled amongst the naturalsplendour, are temples, shrines and statues ofwhich one could assign the description, sheerarchitectural masterpieces and still fail to beoverly generous. Many of them have beenassigned as UNESCO World Heritage Sites.
*****
It was not long after this in fact, that thetragic events of the now infamous earthquake,tsunami and radiation leaks unfolded. As Ientered the staff room of one of my schools,after teaching my final class of the day, I wasimmediately struck by the sight of severalteachers standing around the television set,watching the news reports. Although I watchedthe reports for almost an hour, it was of courseall in Japanese and the seriousness of thesituation perhaps did not sink in until laterthat evening when I returned home and beganto watch the BBC news over the internet.
I called my friends in Tokyo to make surethey were ok. One was stuck on the subwayafter the tremors had shut the trains down.They had to get out of the train and walk downthe tracks to the next station, but luckilyescaped without injury. Another friend ofmine was on one of the top floors of adowntown skyscraper in Tokyo. Heexperienced the violent shaking, from theprecarious heights where he found himself, butluckily the building – designed for just such anoccurrence – remained structurally sound. Heended up spending the next two nights in hisoffice, as the trains were out of service. Ieventually got through to everyone I knew inTokyo, although it took several hours due tothe jammed phone lines. Luckily, all wereunharmed.
Being located in Hiroshima, some four hourssouth east of Tokyo by ‘Shinkansen’ (bullettrain), I was luckily unaffected by the disaster.
What struck me in the immediate aftermathwas the sense of order, presence of mind andstoicism of the Japanese people. Although I
had previously witnessed such behaviouramidst the chaos of Tokyo, to see peoplebehave in such a well mannered, polite andcontrolled fashion throughout a crisis of suchepic proportions was almost inconceivable.
Queues formed at supermarkets, petrolstations and shelters. Nobody in linecomplained when shops were closed due to thefood shortages or petrol being sold out –despite having queued for several hours. Therewas no looting or fighting over food. The waypeople behaved, with such emotional reservein the aftermath of the devastation which theysuffered, really is testament to the qualitieswhich Japanese people possess.
The focus here is now on rebuilding thedestruction which was caused and helpingthose who have suffered. In almost every shop,restaurant and business there is a collection ofsome sort to support those in need. All theschools I have taught in have newspaperarticles relating to the disaster hung on thewalls as a sign of remembrance and solidarity.The hope is that they can rebuild quickly,recover from this tragic occurrence andprovide aid for those most in need.
*****
I will return home on August 18 next, for myfinal year in university. No doubt theadjustment period or ‘reverse culture shock’ asit is often dubbed, may indeed prove moredifficult than the initial move to Japan.Bowing at every opportunity (even whiledriving!), eating and sleeping on the ground,dining with chopsticks, changing from outdoorto indoor shoes every time I enter a building,eating raw fish and being referred to as ‘BrianSensei’, has become such a part and parcel ofeveryday life, its unusual nature rarely evenregisters in my mind any longer. However, itwill of course be fantastic to return home, seefamily and friends, eat some homemade food,sleep in a real bed and speak English at fullspeed!
Time is passing very quickly and the weeksseem to be slipping by. Before returning home Iwill experience Japan’s rainy season and itsnotoriously humid summer months. I hope toconquer Mount Fuji, travel to some more partsof the country and continue training in karate.
My time here so far has been immense andI’m certain the remaining months will be nodifferent. I have learned much about my owncountry, along with that of Japan’s. Living hereis such a contrast; it’s like holding up a mirrorto your own culture and for the first timebeginning to appreciate its good and badqualities.
Hopefully, I will return home a little older,wiser and, as the saying goes, ‘with a new pairof eyes’, plenty having been learned from theJapanese people and their truly fascinatingway of life.
Slán go fóill and sayonara,
Brian Foody ([email protected])
21-year-old Castleconnor native andUL economics student Brian Foodyis currently on work placement inJapan. In part two of a two-partseries, he tells us more about life inthe Northern Pacific.
Japanese adventure: The concluding part of a two-part series
Life in anEastern townLife in anEastern town
Chozu-Bachi:Purification ritual before
entering the temple.
Kinkaku-ji Temple(Golden Pavilion)
Miyajima, Tori GateGetting a lift – Japanese-style!
Brian meetingsome Geishagirls in Kyoto.
EnjoyingJapanesehospitality.
Brian practising karate withthe snow-capped Mount Fujiin the background.
