Lesson 2

Subject: Art/Fashion Design Topic: Dart Manipulation Grade: 12 Allocated Time: 120 minutes

Student Population: The twelfth grade heterogeneous class is comprised of 25 students having various ethnic backgrounds, learning styles and multiple intelligences. The group is taking an introductory Fashion Design elective and has basic knowledge of design concepts and principles having previously taken art and/or design classes.

Description: This is the second lesson in a fashion design class. Students will learn the first principle of dart manipulation and use it to manipulate ten different patterns. After students have made miniature models they will fit them to a miniature dress form to ensure that they have correctly completed each model and successfully made a new pattern.

State Standards:9.1.12.B: Recognize, know, use and demonstrate a variety of appropriate arts elements and principles to produce, review and revise original works in the arts.

9.3.12.B: Determine and apply criteria to a person’s work and works of others in the arts.

Goal: Students will apply their introductory knowledge of dart manipulation principle one to manipulate a one dart pattern to ten different locations on the dress form.

Measurable Objectives:● Students will be able to define dart manipulation principle one.

● Students will be able to label a diagram of ten different dart locations on a bodice pattern.

● Students will begin creating a pattern book consisting of miniature visual models that represent an example of each of the nine basic dart locations they have learned in class.

● Students will have basic knowledge of the single-dart: slash spread dart manipulation method through the creation of their models.  

Student Behaviors Sources of Evidence Criteria for Evaluation

Review of previous lesson: charting dart locations on the dress form

Blank dart diagram worksheet of different dart locations (Attachment A)

Sharing of diagram worksheet answers in small groups

Verbal review of concepts on worksheet

Rubrics: Authentic Assessment – Making and Fitting Pattern Models (Attachment E)

Students performance will be evaluated as: not satisfactory, needs some work, completed, and exceeds expectations in the following categories:

Effort

Students participate in principle one of dart manipulation activity

Q and A with class

Student Input

Dart Manipulation: Principle One worksheet (Attachment B)

Responsibility

Productive Member of Class

Miniature models moving darts to ten different locations on the body are created by students

Instructions for one dart manipulation slash-spread technique (Attachment C)

Miniature dress form (Attachment D)

Classroom demonstration

Skill

Fitting of Models on Miniature Dress Form

Students will discuss activity and arrange worksheets, directions for dart manipulation and ten miniature models in their patternmaking copybooks

Group discussion of success/problems students encountered with fitting models to miniature dress forms

Ten completed one dart models in patternmaking copybook

Required Elements

Knowledge Gained

Background Information

Dart Manipulation:

Principle One:  Introduction to Design Patterns● A dart can be transferred to any location around the pattern’s outline from a

designated pivotal point without affecting the size or fit of the garment.

Corollary:  ● The dart excess (space between the dart legs) can be used as gathers, pleats, tuck-

darts, stylelines (those that cross over the bust point or within 1 inch of the bust), cowls, flare (unstitched dart legs), or ease in the armhole for casual garments. The creative use of the dart excess is called a dart equivalent.

● The dart or its equivalent will always be somewhere within the pattern and garment.  Dart(s) or dart equivalents are directed toward the pivotal point.  A dart ends before reaching the pivotal point and should not go beyond it, especially the pivotal point of the bust.

Single Dart Slash Spread Technique ● Flat patternmaking depends on previously developed patterns as a base for

creating design patterns.● A working pattern is always traced to create other designs and is never altered.● Patterns are saved for later use.

The Process ● Design analysis:  identifying the location of the dart.● Plotting:  drawing line(s) on the traced pattern to indicate where the design

elements are located.  ● A line is drawn from the bust point to the new dart location

Manipulation● To change the shape of the original pattern into a design pattern, the pattern is cut

from the paper and slashed on the plotted line to, but not through, the bust point (pivotal point).  This is to create a hinge, which allows the pattern part to move freely without the piece falling from the pattern through manipulation.  If working with seamed patterns, include slashing from dart point to, but not through, bust point.

Center Front Waist Dart:  The waist dart is relocated to the center front waist. Pattern Plot and Manipulation:

1. Draw slash line from center front waist to bust point.2. Slash pattern from center front waist to, not through, bust point.3. Close dart legs A and B. Tape.

Center Front Neck Dart:  The waist dart is relocated to the center front neck.Pattern Plot and Manipulation:

1. Draw slash line from center front neck dart to bust point.

2. Cut slash line to, not through, bust point.3. Close dart legs A and B. Tape.

Mid-Shoulder Dart:  The waist dart is relocated to the center front neck.Pattern Plot and Manipulation:1. Draw slash line from mid-shoulder to bust point.2. Cut slash line to, not through, bust point.3. Close dart legs A and B. Tape.

French Dart:  The waist dart is relocated to make a French dart.Pattern Plot and Manipulation:1.  Draw slash line from French dart to bust point.2.  Cut slash to, not through, bust point.3.  Close dart legs A and B.  Tape.

Mid-Neck Dart:  The waist dart is relocated to the mid-neck.Pattern Plot and Manipulation:1.  Draw slash line from mid-neck to bust point.2.  Cut slash to, not through, bust point.3.  Close dart legs A and B.  Tape.

Side Dart:  The waist dart is relocated to the side.     Pattern Plot and Manipulation:

1. Draw slash line from side to bust point.2. Cut slash to, not through, bust point.3. Close dart legs A and B.  Tape.

Mid-Armhole Dart:  The waist dart is relocated to the mid-armhole.     Pattern Plot and Manipulation:

1. Draw slash line from mid-armhole to bust point.2. Cut slash to, not through, bust point.3. Close dart legs A and B.  Tape.

Shoulder-Tip Dart:  The waist dart is relocated to the shoulder tip.     Pattern Plot and Manipulation

1. Draw slash line from shoulder-tip to bust point.2. Cut slash to, not through, bust point.3. Close dart legs A and B.  Tape.

Center Front Bust Dart:  The waist dart is relocated to the shoulder tip.     Pattern Plot and Manipulation

1. Draw slash line from center bust dart to bust point.2. Cut slash to, not through, bust point.3. Close dart legs A and B.  Tape.

Time Activity Differentiation

25 Minutes

25 Minutes

WARM-UP: (As students enter class) Students will label a diagram of the ten different darts on a bodice (A). This activity is based on concepts learned from previous lesson.

● Split students into pairs to have self-initiated discussions of the inspiration behind their mood boards.

● While students are in pairs have them compare answers from dart location diagram they labeled during warm-up to ensure completion and accuracy.  

● Monitor groups and be available as a resource for questions about mood board and dart diagram activity.

● Review any unclear concepts before moving students back to their individual design area.

INTRODUCTION:  Ask students: 1. What are darts?  2. What is their purpose?  3. What darts are located on the clothing that you are wearing?

Elicit student input

Introduce the concept of dart manipulation.

● Hand out principle one worksheet (B) and students will copy the following definition onto their worksheet:Principle One:   Introduction to Design Patterns A dart can be transferred to any location around

Linguistic learners can talk about the different dart locations on the bodice in groups and assess each other’s charts verbally. A verbal classroom review of dart chart also aides linguistic students in comprehension.

Kinesthetic learners can complete dart chart by going to the 3 dimensional dress form and physically tracing the locations of the different darts to aide them in labeling their chart.

Visual learners can label diagram and have visual application of different dart locations on the bodice.

Linguistic learners can respond to introductory dart questions.

Kinesthetic learners can use model materials that they have prepared to physically hold and manipulate cut outs while dart introduction is taking place.

Visual learners have written notes on principle one of dart manipulation and can both read along and fill in the blank notes on their sheet.

60 Minutes

the pattern’s outline from a designated pivotal point without affecting the size or fit of the garment.

● Ask students to get out materials that they prepared for today’s lesson: template cut-outs for beginning of dart manipulation.● Explain to students that they are going to make mini-models of different types of darts

DEVELOPMENT: Students will move darts to different locations on the bodice. The different locations were learned and labeled in previous lesson.

● Hand out instructions for manipulating one dart around a bodice using the slash-spread technique (C).

● Hand out miniature dress form (D).

● Demonstrate the first dart manipulation for the center-front waist dart.

● Students will follow along with demonstration to create their first model doing the following steps:

1. Students will read the directions for Center Front Waist Dart.

2.  Students will draw a slash line from the center front waist to bust point.

3.  Students will slash pattern from center front waist to, not through, bust point.

4. Students will close dart legs A and B and tape the two together.

Linguistic learners have verbal demonstration of how to manipulate darts by following along with teacher in first example. Students can also benefit from listening to classroom volunteer doing second dart example

Kinesthetic learners can physically make models of different dart locations

Visual learners can follow along with written directions to create visual representation of each dart through completed model.

10 Minutes

● Ask for a volunteer to do the second dart manipulation as an example at the front of the class. The class will follow the instructions along with the volunteer and teacher. This will complete the second model.

● Students will be broken up into groups of four.

● As a small group students will follow their directions to complete the remaining dart manipulations.

ASSESSMENT: An authentic assessment rubric (E) will be used to assess a student’s ability to create different patterns. Using their miniature dress forms, students will fit their patterns to miniature form. This will demonstrate real-world meaningful application of skills being taught. Degree of effort and participation are also factored into assessment.

CLOSURE: The class will take the patterns they have created and arrange them in their pattern books so that there are ten sets of instructions with ten miniature models.

As students are adding to their patternmaking books they can discuss in their groups their success/problem with fitting their miniature models to their miniature dress form.

Linguistic learners can discuss their models in small groups.

Kinesthetic learners can physically assemble their pattern pages in their pattern books.

Visual learners can see instructions for each dart manipulation above the model they made to be able to recall the process of making each different concept.

CONNECTIONS: Students can connect the formula of principle one of dart manipulation and the process of manipulating darts to formulas and following of a process in science. Students can also apply the activity of having accurate measurements and fit to math measurements and using a formula to get a result.

Follow-up:

● Students can look at clothing in their closets to find different examples of dart locations that they created to apply their two dimensional models to three dimensional design.

● Students can write about how darts help patterns fit around the body.

● Students can design their own miniature dress form to use when fitting their dart models. This can replace the form template students received with the goal of further personalizing the patternmaking experience.

Materials:

● Blank diagram of different dart locations on the body (A)● Dart Manipulation: Principle One worksheet (B)● Instructions for one dart manipulation slash-spread technique (C)● Miniature dress form template (D)● Tape, paper, scissors, envelopes● Patternmaking for fashion design book● Rubrics for authentic assessment (E)

Resources:

● Patternmaking for Fashion Design – Fourth Edition: Helen Joseph Armstrong○ This book serves as the most current and primary basis for pattern drafting

in the Fashion Industry.

● Patternmaking for Fashion Design – Second Edition: Helen Joseph Armstrong○ This book is a previous edition of the book listed above. It provides some

of the examples in a more simplistic form.

Technology

● Students can use the Internet to look up pictures of designs that incorporate the different dart locations they made models of. Students can use these images to get a better idea of what their two dimensional models would look like if they were created out of fabric.