LECTURE - Fashion Stories 2014

8/12/2019 LECTURE - Fashion Stories 2014

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FASHION STORIES:

SEQUENCE AND THE PAGE


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Fashion photographs, what are they about

clothing?atmosphere...

associations...stylistic symbolism...


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clothing?atmosphere...associations...

stylistic symbolism...

Montage / Sequence / Reference


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clothing?atmosphere...associations...

stylistic symbolism...Montage / Sequence / Reference


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Fashion photographs?Fashion sequencesTo look at some key basic ideas in

fashion photography through two

particular fashion stories


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(Group) Analysis of key roles(via Ulrich Lehmann, Fashion Photography, Chic-clicks, 2002)Production:

PhotographerModelRhetoric:

GestureNarrativeText


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Hymn

David Sims

Arena Homme +

A/W 2012

Vacation

Daniel Riera

Fantastic Man

S/S 2012


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Thoughts on sequence?


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Photographer?Style Classical, clarity

A play on deadpanStatic composition / Sharp line / Clear colours


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Photographer?Style Classical, clarity

A play on deadpanShowing clothes? (an old approach)Demonstrating editorial vision?Static composition / Sharp line / Clear colours


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Model?(via Ulrich Lehmann)The models body is the support of the clothes, an abstraction

that then the clothes render realIt is the clothes that make the subject


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Is there an interplay here?What is the model choice here?How does it affect the clothing?


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What is the model choice here?

How does it affect the clothing?


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What is the model choice here?

How does it affect the clothing?


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Mert & Marcus

Versace Men campaign

2012


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Collier SchorrWorkshopFantastic Man, A/W 2013


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Collier SchorrWorkshop

Fantastic Man, A/W 2013


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Gesture?The deadpanThe non-gesture, with a positive outlook


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Narrative?A tripA vacation

Health.The healthy body


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Narrative?A tripA vacation

Health.The healthy body


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Narrative?A fashion story issue to keep the story open / ambiguous andyet retain a universal element for viewer identificationLehmann:

*to keep a story simple, to not exclude the viewer, to not detractfrom clothes

*to keep narrative compelling and generate anticipation, to link

the images, to draw spectator in


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An early fashion paradigm

Healthy Outdoors from mannequin to movementBaron George Hoyningen-Huen

Martin Munkacsi

Louise Dahl-Wolfe


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Baron George Hoyningen-Huen, British Vogue,

August 8th1928

Baron George Hoyningen-Huen, American Vogue,July 5th1930


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Louise Dahl-Wolfe, American Harpers Bazaar, May 1938

Toni Frissell, American Vogue, January 1st1939


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Martin Munkacsi, American Harpers Bazaar, June 1936

Martin Munkacsi, American Harpers Bazaar, December 1933


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Alasdair Mclellan

Vogue, March, 2014


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Martin MunkacsiBeach!c.1930


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Edward Steichen, American Vogue, June 1st1925

A key shift

From clothing as honorific / sign of status

to fashion as centering on the body


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Richard Avedon

Harpers Bazaar1957


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Annie Leibovitz

Prada campaign

2014


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Cecil Beaton

Lady Ottoline Morrell

1927


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Erwin BlumenfeldThe Princess of Pearls

Harpers Bazaar, 1939


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HiroRudi Gernreich

Harpers Bazaar1966


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Current vogue:Alasdair McLellan

In Glorious MonoS/S 2013


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Helmut Newton, French Vogue, November 1981


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Guy Bourdin, Charles Jourdan advertising, Summer 1975;

Spring 1975 variant; Spring 1975


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Julia NoniHow to Look Good NakedBon, S/S 2014


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Daniel RieraButt magazine

2010


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Mario SorrentiPerfect Ten

W Magazine, 2014


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Mario Sorrenti

The Rules of Deception

V Magazine no.582009


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Oliver Zahm: On the Marked Change in Fashion PhotographyFashion photography*is a cannibalistic vampire (devours times, trends, bodies,

youth)*sits between advertising and pornographyFrom advertising (which seeks to incite desire for the object) it

retains the imperative of legibility and ease of decoding the

fashion referent. From pornography (which seeks to incite desire

for the subject) it learns to ritualize desire, and to aestheticize the

sexual act in an impossible prostitutional act, a non-site ofsymbolic exchange

Chic-Clicks, 2002


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Sean & SengStoyaPop, SS 2013


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Sean & SengStoyaPop, SS 2013


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Richard Kern

Sasha Restrained by RichardVice2009


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Steven Klein

James Deen and Stoya2013


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Text?Roland Barthes: The theatre of fashion is always thematic: an

idea (or more precisely, a word) is varied through a series ofexamples or analogies

The Fashion System


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Text?Roland Barthes: The theatre of fashion is always thematic: an

idea (or more precisely, a word) is varied through a series ofexamples or analogies

The Fashion System


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The captionTo describe what is there.

To name the brand.To set a tone (a rare instance, not the usual function)


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Photographer?Style?David Sims

The lyrical, the symbolist


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Photographer?Style?David Sims

The lyrical, the symbolist

D id Si


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David Sims

Prada menswear A/W advertising campaign

2012


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David Sims

Prada menswear S/S advertising campaign

2013


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G sta e Morea


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Gustave MoreauThe Apparition

1876


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The insertFashion-as-and-montage


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Stylistic features:ColourDigital effects


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Sarah Moon


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Saul Leiter


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What kind of digital effect?


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g

David Sims vs. Nick Knight


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Nick KnightCampaign for#DIESELTRIBUTE2013


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Nick KnightGarage no.32012


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David Sims


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Acid Jazz

Arena Homme+ S/S 2013


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Model?


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Daniel Sannwald


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Collections

Arena Homme+ A/W 2012


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Gesture?Narrative?Text?A mystical return to grungeA hymn to a pop-cultural figurePosing the splendid with the sordid the special with the

everydayHymn as dream-logic


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Gesture?Narrative?Text?A mystical return to grungeA hymn to a pop-cultural figurePosing the splendid with the sordid the special with the

everydayHymnas suburban dream-logic


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Narrative?

A fashion story issue to keep the story open / ambiguous YET

Hymn as deliberate obscurity, but with simple premise: David Bowie a

movement away from depicting clothes to emphasis on moodA distancing narrative style anchored by easily understood referent


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Corrine DayEnglands Dreaming

The Face1993


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Corrine DayEnglands Dreaming

The Face1993

The everyday meets the dream


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fashion photography as play with deflation as well as elation(but still essentially constructed)

Juergen Teller


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Juergen Teller

Wolfgang Tillmans


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Wolfgang Tillmans


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Cecil Beaton

Vogue1945


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Cecil Beaton,British Vogue,

September 1941

Hymn

David Sims

Vacation

Daniel Riera


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Arena Homme +

A/W 2012

Fantastic Man

S/S 2012


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To conclude:A fashion story is a mixture of:clothes / modelmood-tone / defining word

stylemodel-castingreferencenarrativeexpectation / anticipation

identification

text-image-relation

LECTURE - Fashion Stories 2014

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