KOREA magazine [DECEMBER 2011 VOL. 8 NO. 12]

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    People & Culture

    december 2011

    IncheonHead to tHe

    City of Globalism

    SeaSonal cheerdonation fever

    CatCHes in korea

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    Contentsdecember 2011 VOL.8 NO.12

    02cover story

    Take a look into Koreas past through its art.

    12pen & brush

    Yang Haegues work explores the abstract.

    16

    peopleAn Son-jae brings Korean literature to light.

    18great korean

    Ahn Chang-hos activism crossed oceans.

    20seoul

    Feast on the multicultural cuisine of Itaewon.

    22travelTake in sunsets and seafood in Incheon.

    26festival

    Celebrate winter with ripe persimmons.

    27flavor

    Bring in the new year with patjukporridge

    02

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    cover story

    a glimpseof koreapastPainting was at its zenith in terms o both quality and quantity in the lateJoseon Dynasty. By depicting landscapes, scenes rom everyday lie andanimals in realistic detail, the times artists showed their love and prideor their nation and culture. by Park Min-young

    T

    opicImages;NationalMus

    eumo

    fKorea(inset)

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    www.korea.net06|korea| december 2011

    to develop a new technique o painting.

    By modiying the times widely used

    Chinese Southern School style, he

    created a style o painting that was t to

    portray Koreas landscapes. Jeong also

    invented a unique way o painting that

    involved holding two brushes in one

    hand. Te artist consumed so many

    tools during the process that the heap o

    used brushes he threw out is known to

    have been larger than a tomb.

    Support rom Kings Yeongjo andJeongjo, who were generous patrons

    o the arts, played a big role in the

    development o painting as well. A high

    demand or aesthetic paintings existed

    in court at the time, and the most-

    wanted variety was realistic landscapes.

    Paintings rom the late Joseon

    Dynasty showed a great dierence rom

    those in its neighboring countries

    it started to dierentiate itsel rom

    the strong, bold aspects o continental

    Chinese art and also rom the brilliant

    colors o Japanese art. Rather, it was

    independent and unique enough to have

    even inuenced other cultures. Te eraspaintings are known to have played a

    considerable role in the development o

    the Japanese Southern School style.

    gRowth oF genRe Paintings During

    the early years o the Joseon Dynasty, art

    depicting daily lie and people wearing

    casual attire were considered relatively

    vulgar. But in the latter hal o the

    period, this idea was abandoned.

    Genre paintings, or art that illustrates

    the everyday lie o the artists time,

    became greatly popular in the late

    Joseon Dynasty. Te paintings are not

    only highly valuable as art, but are also

    important historical records that can

    inorm the ollowing generations about

    the times liestyle.

    Some o the best painters o the time

    were Yun Du-seo, Kim Hong-do, Shin

    Yun-bok, Kim Deuk-sin and Jo Yeong-

    seok.

    Yun was an important gure in terms

    o genre painting, as he was one o the

    rst artists who ever attempted the style.

    He lived and worked in the early 18th

    century, and six o his original paintings

    are intact, including Women Picking

    Edible Plants and Carving Woodenware.

    As well as depicting labor at the time,

    the painting eaturing women gathering

    plants at the oot o a mountain alsoinorms viewers what kind ohanbok

    (traditional clothes) people wore

    when working. Te womens jeogori is

    signicantly longer compared to those

    depicted in late 18th century paintings.

    Kim Hong-do (also known as

    Danwon) is another painter who

    perected genre painting in the late 18th

    century. He was a highly versatile artist,

    but is best known or his genre pieces,

    such as Pungsokdocheop (Korean Genre

    Paintings), reasure No 527.

    Te work is an album he made in his

    30s and contains 25 paintings o various

    events he witnessed in the country. Iteatures people working, playing sports,

    eating, drinking, dancing and more.

    Every gure has its own story. Like

    Yun, Kim also lef the background bare,

    allowing his main subjects to stand out.

    In the painting Lunch, or example, a

    dog stares at a group o pe ople enjoying

    their midday snack, hoping or a share.

    Treshing Rice shows the unsatised

    rowns o young men striking sheaves o

    rice to the ground in contrast with the

    laid back posture o an old man, possibly

    the landowner, in the background.

    While Kim Hong-do ocused on

    painting rural lie, Shin Yun-bok (whose

    penname was Hyewon) depicted scenes

    o urban lie. Shin was the rst artist

    to boldly depict the gisaeng liestyle

    and the relationship between men and

    women. Te best known works are

    included in Hyewon Pungsokdo. In the

    album, Shin vividly portrays the ashion

    and irtatious attitudes o gisaeng, as

    well as the gallant and ridiculous actions

    o men trying to win their avor.

    Analyzing Shins paintings, one could

    even assume that although women were

    restricted by the patriarchy, they still led

    rather active and autonomous lives.

    PeeRing into PoRtRaits Following

    the Goryeo style o the early Joseon

    Dynasty and the Chinese styles in the

    middle o the era, Joseons own style

    was established in the latter part o

    the period. One consistent aspect o

    portraiture, however, was that the artist

    who was given permission to paint the

    king was considered the best in the land.

    For this task, even painters rom outside

    the court were considered or the job.

    Unortunately, there are no original

    extant copies o any o the kings

    portraits. Tis is because artists regularly

    burned each original afer copying it,

    because it was orbidden to pass down

    a kings portrait once it had aded. Te

    names o the artists who copied the

    portraits were kept secret.

    Te peculiarity o late Joseon Dynasty

    portraits is, once again, realism. Artists

    did not try to beautiy the subjects at

    all, but instead put in extra eorts not to

    leave out a single hair o a beard or any

    sun spots. Tey believed that, by doing

    so, the painting could truly mirror the

    subjects inner side.

    It was not only the king and high

    ocials that commissioned portraits

    in the late Joseon Dynasty. General

    yangban and even commoners started

    to request portraits. And because artists

    could paint according to their own rules

    or this class o people, the artistry o

    portrait painting quickly developed.

    Various orms were introduced in

    the period such as sel portraits, best

    represented by Yun Du-seos amed

    piece. Jeong SeonsMiindo, a ull-

    length portrait o a gisaeng, can also be

    regarded as a type o portrait.L

    eeum,

    SamsungMuseumo

    fArt(above);NationalMuseumo

    fKorea(opposite)

    Famous FolK Paintings Among

    the dierent kinds o olk paintings,

    the ones that are best known rom thlate Joseon Dynasty are those eaturi

    animals, birds, owers and bugs.

    It was a genre most artists enjoyed

    painting in order to earn some extra

    money; even court painters created th

    style ominhwa in their pastime, usu

    on commission rom other patrons.

    Several artists started to specialize in

    the area, or more specically in paint

    certain animals. Byeon Sang-byeok,

    example, ocused on cats and was of

    called the cat artist, and Kim Du-ry

    was especially good with dogs.

    Believing that each subject eature

    in olk paintings represented someth

    positive, elites o the society at the tim

    exchanged olk paintings as New Year

    gifs. For example, dogs symbolized

    happiness, tigers meant courage and

    magpies represented good news.

    lf r, fr bv: Playing Cats rk f fk r by J s-p; Self-

    portrait of Yun Du-seo r ry; prr f r h hyby c Y-.

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    we experienced rapid economic growth

    and most o us completely orgot about

    what it was like during the Japanese

    colonial era. It is time we take pride in

    ourselves, he says.

    Te museum was established in

    1938 by Jeon Hyeong-pil (1906-1962),

    who was better known by his penname

    Kansong. He became a wealthy man at

    the age o 24, having inherited a great

    ortune, and was devoted to buying the

    nations relics and artworks that wereleaking out to Japan. Price was never an

    obstacle or him; i he thought an item

    was o high quality, he purchased it.

    One example is when he bought 20

    pieces o Goryeo Cheongja (celadon

    porcelainware) rom a British collector

    in Japan by selling 10,000 patches o

    eld in Gongju, Chungcheongnam-do

    Province the equivalent o 400 houses

    in Seoul at the time. It was worth it,

    though, because seven o the Cheongja

    were eventually designated as ocial

    treasures.

    Te museums collection includes the

    only extant copy oHunminjeongeum, adocument explaining the new script or

    the Korean language, written by King

    Sejong. It is National reasure No 70

    and was also registered on the UNESCO

    Memory o the World list in 1997. Shin

    Yun-boks Hyewon Pungsokdo (National

    reasure No 135), a 30-lea album

    containing the amed paintingMiindo

    (Portrait o a Beauty), can also be ound

    at the museum.

    In Kansongs time, Japanese scholars

    tried to plant a colonial view o history

    in Koreans minds, emphasizing that our

    culture was worthless. Kansong collected

    the works because he did not believe it

    and wanted to show how excellent our

    culture was, says Choi.

    Te museums opening to the public,

    however, was delayed or many years

    due to the afermath o the Korean War

    (1950-1953). It was only afer Jeons

    death in 1966 that his descendents

    scouted Choi, a scholar and researcher

    at the National Museum o Korea, to

    work at the museum and reopen it.

    Led by Choi, a group o researchers

    who are now regarded as the Kansong

    School started to study the museums

    collection. Tey started the exhibits

    in the autumn o 1971 and also the

    publication oKansong Munhwa, a book

    containing research papers related toeach exhibits theme.

    Among the museums collection,

    works rom late Joseon Dynasty

    comprise the largest portion. Te

    early Joseon Dynasty was inuenced by

    Chinas Zhu Xis Neo-Conucianism, so

    even people in our paintings resembled

    the Chinese. In the latter part o

    the dynasty, though, our own Neo-

    Conucianism was established. When

    ideology is the root, art is like a ower.

    Our own culture started to blossom

    because we nally had our own roots,

    Choi explains.

    Kansong sensed it. Tat is why

    his collection is concentrated on the

    late Joseon period, like paintings by

    Gyeomjae (Jeong Seons penname) and

    Danwon (Kim Hong-do). We have

    enough to hold separate exhibitions on

    08|korea| december 2011 www.korea.net

    Y

    onhapNewsAgency(bot

    tom)

    Koreas art history cannot be discussed without mentioningKansong Art Museum, the oldest private museum in Korea.Chie curator Choi Wan-su explains the history o the museumand shares his thoughts on late Joseon Dynasty paintings.by Park Min-young | photographs by Kim Nam-heon

    A long queue o several hundred meters

    orms down a narrow alley in Seongbuk-

    dong, northern Seoul, every spring and

    autumn. In line are people waiting or

    nothing else but a precious peek into the

    latest exhibit at Kansong Art Museum,

    which only opens to the public twice a

    year: or about two weeks at a time in

    May and October. Visitors wait at least

    an hour, or at most three, to get inside.

    Kansong is the nations oldest private

    museum and holds an impressivecollection o more than 12,000 priceless

    artworks o all genres, including

    paintings, sculptures and calligraphy,

    rom the period o the Tree Kingdoms

    (BC57-668AD) to modern times.

    Among the collection, 12 have been

    designated national treasures and 10

    more are also recognized as treasures.

    One hundred portrait and genre

    paintings by 52 representative artists o

    the Joseon Dynasty (1392-1910) were

    brought out rom the museums private

    stores or its last exhibit in October.

    Upon hearing that complaints are

    growing amongst art acionados aboutthe insuciency o twice-a-year exhibits,

    Choi Wan-su, chie curator at the

    museum, chuckles and shakes his head.

    Museums in general play one or more

    o these three big roles collecting art

    or relics and preserving them; studying

    them; and exhibiting them. Te role o

    Kansong is to study works o art, not

    exhibit them. In a way, we are doing

    volunteer work every spring and all to

    let the public know the results o our

    studies, Choi says with a smile.

    Te number o visitors to Kansong

    jumped soon afer Te Painter of Wind

    a drama about Joseon Dy nasty artist

    Shin Yun-bok became a hit in 2008,

    and has been steadily increasing since.

    Choi believes that it is because Koreans

    sel-esteem is getting stronger.

    We are more educated than beore,

    cover story

    penetrating koreasart History

    each artist.

    Choi says that the peoples love or

    their nation during the late Joseon

    Dynasty is reected in their work.

    Even Mount Geumgangsan, which

    obviously never changed externally, i

    painted more delicately compared to

    early Joseon art. It is because the arti

    examined the mountain more closely

    nally regarding it as beautiul.

    c w-xp v r(pp).t r Kar m(p r).t xrrf K(r).Vrbr f rr xb(br).

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    at K Auction, says that the artworks

    displayed at the shows are not easily

    ound in auctions. Although collectors

    are always looking or investable

    artwork, high quality pieces rom the

    late Joseon Dynasty rarely come out in

    the market, Na explains.

    Seoul Auction and K Auction, the

    two biggest auction houses in Korea,

    allot only a small part o their auctions

    to antique art. In hopes o revitalizing

    the market, several antique art-exclusive

    auction houses such as A Auction and

    My Art Auction were launched last year.

    Due to the limited pool o collectors,

    10|korea| december 2011

    cover story

    www.korea.ne

    Y

    onhapNewsAgency(above);SeoulAuction(opposite)

    however, industry insiders nd it

    dicult to animate the stagnant market.

    Te collector pool or old art does

    not expand that easily. Te general

    assumption that old and rich people

    are the only ones collecting antique art

    is actually right. Among art collectors,

    those interested in antiques only take up

    about 30%. Most preer contemporary

    art because antiques look rather somber

    when placed in houses, says Eum Jeong-

    woo, an auctioneer at Seoul Auction.As much as the collectors stay the

    same, the prices do not uctuate either,

    especially compared to the soaring

    prices o contemporary art.

    Up until 2000, antique art took up

    about 80% o the lots in auctions, and

    the rest was contemporary. But the

    situation soon reversed as art started to

    emerge as an investment tool. Demand

    or older art continuously decreased.

    Tanks to the stable pool o collectors,

    though, prices have stayed the same,

    even in 2008 when contemporary

    art values dropped due to the global

    economic crisis, Eum adds.

    In act, I think people are starting

    to change their minds about antique

    art, seeing how stable they are. Tey

    are realizing that classics never change.

    Antique art auctions steadily mark about

    UndervalUedpaintings

    While museums were elated over the

    recent string o successul exhibits

    eaturing Joseon Dynasty (1392-1910)

    paintings, auction houses were rather

    indierent to the news. Such momentary

    interest o the public does not

    necessarily lead to actual sales, they say.

    Te antique art market is going through

    a slump, like the overall art industry.

    Te recent popularity o antique art

    among the public, temporarily buoyed

    by the exhibitions, doesnt have much to

    do with auctions, says Kim Jong-chun,

    head o A Auction in Seoul.

    Na Yun-jeong, an antique art specialist

    75% to 80% sales each time.

    Among late Joseon Dynasty artworks,

    paintings by Jeong Seon, Shin Yun-bok,

    Kim Hong-do and calligraphy works by

    Kim Jeong-hui consistently comprise the

    highest price range. At Seoul Auctions

    latest antique art auction held in March,

    Kim Hong-dos Baenguigwaneumdo

    (Hermit) was sold at 160 million won

    (US$139,360) and Jang Seung-eops

    Hosaneoeundo (Landscape) was sold at

    150 million won (US$130,662). Bothwere sold near the starting point o the

    estimated price range.

    Tere are detailed standards or xing

    the price o Joseon Dy nasty paintings.

    But even i the artist is the same, prices

    can vary across genres. Jeong Seons

    works, or example, range rom about

    20 million won (US$17,422) to several

    hundred million.

    In the case o works o the same

    genre and theme, some were painted

    with extra care while some were not.

    Te price depends on how much eort

    the artist put into the work and how rare

    that piece is. Jeong Seon, or example,painted many genres, but hisJingyeong

    (realistic) landscapes are considered

    the most expensive because they were

    his major works, and were thus painted

    with great care, says Eum.

    Prices can also vary according to

    whether the painting has a seal or not,

    its overall condition, and its previous

    owners. During the late Joseon Dynasty,

    paintings were already highly valued, so

    it is likely that the owners o works by

    major artists were inuential gures in

    society. I a painting carries the seal o a

    big-name collector rom that time, it is

    appraised at a higher rate.

    Joseon Dynasty artworks and relics

    can also be ound in overseas auctions

    like Sothebys or Christies, because a

    great number o them were leaked out

    o the country or sold to oreigners

    Experts have critically acclaimed thequality and value o late Joseon Dynastypaintings, but priceless works o art areas yet undervalued in local andinternational markets. by Park Min-young

    during and afer the Japanese colonial

    rule (1910-1945). Te auction results

    overseas, however, are poor, especially

    compared to Chinese antique art, which

    continuously breaks auction records.

    Te highest-ever priced antique rom

    the Joseon Dynasty was made o whiteporcelain, which sold or 7 billion won

    (US$6 million) in 1996 at Christies in

    New York, while a Chinese embroidered

    ceramic bottle was sold at over 97 billion

    won (US$84.49 million) in 2010 in

    Bainbridges o London.

    Chinas antique art market is growing

    because Chinese economic power is

    getting stronger and they have great

    pride in their own culture. Tey believe

    that they should take back what is

    theirs rom the world. Te country has

    a large population, and a lot o them

    are interested in overseas auctions,

    comments Na.

    Another reason Koreas antique

    art market is depressed is because o

    orgery issues. Instead o one ocially

    authorized institute to appraise the

    works, there are three private ones. So

    opinions usually split in most cases a

    ail to set a proper price or the work

    Despite problems, however, critics

    argue that antique art, especially late

    Joseon Dynasty paintings, has a high

    cultural value and potential to stand o

    in the international market.

    It was in the late Joseon Dynasty th

    Koreans rst started to see their cultu

    and artworks with their own eyes, say

    art critic Sohn Cheol-ju. Evaluationon contemporary art can change

    anytime. But old artworks, like late

    Joseon Dynasty paintings, are already

    considered masterpieces, he says.

    Sohn adds that Koreas traditional

    culture, including the paintings, is th

    root o the recent Hallyu Korean wav

    and that it could be proved anytime o

    i people would realize it.

    Many expected the Korean wave

    to ade out quickly, but it didnt. It wi

    expand even urther, carried by digita

    tools like social networking sites. Te

    art industry is relatively ignorant in t

    aspect. Tere are almost no websites

    to promote the value o our tradition

    works overseas. What we need to do

    right now is to establish a digital base

    systematically organize and promote

    artworks, Sohn says.

    Pp bd l J-pA Bull s a Kr (pp).Hermitby K h-d d fr 160 (us$139,360) (bv).

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    www.korea.ne12|korea| december 2011

    pen & brush

    Speaking inthe Language

    of Art

    Yang Haegue

    It is no exaggeration to say that one is an

    internationally-acclaimed artist when

    his or her works have been collected

    by prestigious art museums around the

    world. Te Solomon R Guggenheim

    Museum in New York is the latest

    addition to the list o major venues

    to have included works by Korean

    conceptual artist Yang Haegue, ollowing

    the Museum o Modern Art, the Los

    Angeles County Museum o Art and the

    Carnegie Museum o Art.

    Guggenheim purchased Yangs Series

    o Vulnerable Arrangements Voice

    and Windin October, which was rst

    showcased at the Venice Art Biennale in

    Yang Haegue is one o themost successul Koreancontemporary artistsrecognized domestically andabroad. he Guggenheimrecently added Yangs work totheir collection, cementing theartists reputation a little more.by Park Min-young | photographs by

    Kim Nam-heon

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    www.korea.ne14|korea| december 2011

    2009. Composed o window blinds, ans and sprays, the work

    stimulates all ve senses and entices curiosity by lling the

    space with wind, ragrances and voices.

    Yang met with KOREA at Kukje Gallery in central Seoul

    during a short autumn visit here, saying that she was glad

    to hear the news as it is a relie or an artist when a work is

    collected by a museum. It means that the work will be well

    maintained and that it is guaranteed a long, secure lie. Te

    museum will showcase it over and over in many exhibitions. It

    will be dierent rom works collected by individual collectors,

    which usually disappear rom the eld, she explains.

    She has condence that the oeuvre will work in whatever

    exhibition the museum decides to showcase it in. Everyone

    said that the work was too site-specic aer seeing it on

    show in Venice. It was challenging or me, too, because the

    aquarium-like white cube in the New Museum, where it was

    next showcased, was very dierent rom the bustling pavilion

    in the Biennale. But the result turned out to be satisying; the

    museum even pulled down the ceiling so that the work could

    stand out, Yang explains.

    Crossing Boundaries Born in Seoul in 1971, Yang

    graduated rom Seoul National Universitys Fine Arts College

    and urthered her studies at Stdelschule in Frankurt,

    Germany. German newspaper Capitalincluded her as one

    o the top 100 international installation artists in 2009, along

    with compatriot Lee Bul. Te young artist now lives and works

    alternately in Seoul and Berlin.

    Her art world can be roughly summarized as a collection

    o amiliar materials lights, ans, inrared heaters, window

    blinds, clothes hangers,

    careully olded paper

    cranes or shattered

    glass but reassembled

    in dierent ways to

    create unamiliar, inspiring scenes. Te

    completed works, mostly realized in the orm o

    installations but as paintings or sculptures as well, carries the

    artists sentiments about certain individuals and incidents, or

    more generally about humanity, history and her memories.

    Yang earned the gaze o the international spotlight aer

    representing Korea at the 53rd Venice Biennale. She was invited

    by museums all over the world to participate in group and solo

    exhibitions. Some o her most important shows o late include

    the 2011 joint exhibition Te Sea Wallshe held with Cuban

    artist Felix Gonzales-orress at Arnolni in the UK; her 2011

    solo show eacher o Dance at Modern Art Oxord in the UK;

    and her solo exhibitionArt and echnique o Folding the Land

    held at the Aspen Art Museum in the US.

    In terms o work ethic, Yang is obstinate and meticulous

    to the point o making her peers suer, as the artist hersel

    lightheartedly describes. And unlike many artists who preer

    to be secluded and conceal themselves when it comes to

    communicating with the public, Yang is very outspoken.

    It is not always in the orm o verbal language she

    happens to be uent in Korean, German and English that

    she expresses her thoughts, but through art, writing books or

    even directing monodramas. She wrote the bookMelancholy

    is a Longing or the Absoluteness in 2009 and directed the

    monodrama Te Malady o Death in 2008, based on a shortK

    ukjeGallery(oppositerig

    ht,above)

    how the materials she had

    to use in her Seoul Nationa

    University days at the

    Department o Sculpture d

    not suit her at all.

    Te classes were very

    academic. In order to stand

    out in class, one had to be

    really good at cracking ston

    or kneading clay. I was not

    the type. alking with the

    materials or exploring thesymbol o the materials wa

    not something or me, she

    admits.

    I mostly use manuactu

    materials in my works. Te

    were born in their own actory lines and already have a

    purpose and exist or a reason in society. I am meddling in

    middle o all that.

    Her installation workManteufelstrasse 112 Single and

    Solid, or example, is made o aluminum Venetian blinds, li

    bulbs and radiators that mimic the models she uses in her

    ofce. By gathering everyday household products that have

    a relationship to warmth, Yang materializes the concept o

    house without an address or specic location.

    Te concepts are simple yet surprising. For Yang, ndinginspiration is a magical thing that is hard to recognize in th

    moment. Can you explain every single decision you have

    made in your lie? No. We [artists] may seem dierent, but

    are the same. We are not aliens, she laughs.

    story by French writer Marguerite Duras, whose work has

    been inuential in Yangs style.

    An artist should have a language o ones own, other than

    the linguistic one, something that can be best expressed

    through their works. It can be ones attitude or perspective on

    the world. It diers depending on the individuals and their

    backgrounds. I think that language is the most important one

    or an artist, she says.

    When questioned about her versatility in crossing genres

    o art, literature and theater, Yang shakes her head. Tat is a

    misunderstanding. I am not the type o person who does or

    can do so many dierent things. Te things I do happen to

    be realized in dierent media, but to me, they are simply my

    works, she says.

    Is it not what you do that should be clear, rather than

    the genre? I think materials and media are what should

    ollow, naturally, and get decided upon what you do. Tere

    are, o course, artists who really ocus on the medium and

    ponder deeply on questions like what is video, or what is

    photography. But Im not that much o a media-oriented

    person. I just take the materials that I need at the moment,

    stay under until I ully digest and interpret them in my own

    way, and come back up to the surace. Aer that, I like to be

    ree o that material or genre.

    CommuniCating inspiration At rst glance, Yangs works

    can be difcult to understand. Her choice o materials, usually

    ready-made objects available at stores anywhere in the world,

    would require explanation or most, and is one o the most

    characteristic aspects o her art. Te artist reminisces about

    pc fASeries ofVulnerable

    Arrangementsc YH wll-kw

    wk (lf, flf). all vwf Y lhb nwm nwYk ().

    2007 Remote Room, Galerie Barbara Wien (Berlin)

    2008 Asymmetric Equality, REDCAT (Los Angeles)

    Global EurAsia, Art Cologne (Cologne)

    2009 Condensation, South Korean Pavilion, 53rd Venice Biennale (Italy)

    Your Bright Future: 12 Contemporary Artists from Korea ,

    LACMA (Los Angeles)

    Monument to Transformation, City Gallery Prague (Prague)

    Everything, Then, Passes Between Us, Kolnischer Kunstverein (Colo

    2010 Voice Over Three, Artsonje Center (Seoul)

    Voice and Wind, New Museum (New York)

    After Architects, Kunsthalle Basel (Basel) 10,000 Lives, 8th Gwangju Biennale (Gwangju)

    Like Eskimo Space, 1857 (Oslo)

    2011 Teacher of Dance, Modern Art Oxford (Oxford)

    The Sea Wall, Arnolfini (Bristol)

    Art and Technique of Folding the Land, Aspen Art Museum (Colorad

    Playing Among the Ruins, Museum of Contemporary Art Tokyo (To

    tHe artists major exHiBits

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    people

    www.korea.ne

    Te sounds ogayageum (Korean

    traditional zither) ll the oce

    cluttered with an astounding collection

    o books and tea sets. Tis is where

    Brother Anthony also known by

    his Korean name An Son-jae since his

    naturalization in 1994 translates

    some o Koreas most beloved work,

    bringing the world o Korean poetry to

    the English language.

    A ormer English literature proessor

    at Sogang University, An has earned

    a reputation as an exacting translator.

    oday, he continues his work with

    ervor, while also serving as the

    president o the Royal Asiatic Society.

    with politics, which helped instill a vein

    o independence against government.

    Despite the rocky welcome, An ound

    beauty in Korean traditional culture.

    When asked which part o Korea he

    would most like to share with the outside

    world, An replies: Te best thing to

    share is Korean temples. He explains

    that there, oreigners can be exposed

    to all the elements o culture: hanok

    houses, traditional cuisine, the sounds

    o nature and Buddhist instruments.Te ollowing is excerpts rom the

    interview, which has been edited or

    length.

    For the tea amateur, could you explain

    what the main diferences are between

    Korean, Chinese and Japanese teas?

    Well, theres a lot less o it and nobodys

    heard o it. Korean tea is rare, though o

    course, you have a ew actories like O

    Sulloc, which is the biggest one and run

    by Amore Pacic. Korean teas coming

    out o the actories tend to be a little bit

    in the Japanese style and the plants in

    Boseong and Jeju are basically Japanese

    varieties o tea. Te best kind is hand-

    dried, and they are basically Chinese

    plants growing wild, and then sort o

    planted in the tea elds o Jirisan.

    Korean tea is, when its good,

    handmade tea. Until recently, it was all

    green tea, but now a lot o people make

    yellow tea, or hwang cha. It has a sweeter

    taste than green tea.

    Korean tea is deeper, richer and

    more natural because when making tea

    by hand, humidity and wind become

    actors, and it is much more variable

    when produced on a small scale.

    Which o the works you have

    translated was most interesting to you?

    Teyre all interesting; theyre all

    impossible. Te rst volume we

    published o Ko UnsManinbo, those

    Brhr Ahy has walls up walls fbshls liig his ffi (ppsi). BrhrAhy dris a (p). May rar bs a bs i h raslars ffi (ab).

    Brother Anthony, better known to some as An Son-jae, has dedicated more than 30years o his lie to the translation o Korean literature and the study o Koreantraditional teas. hough he already translated more than 25 volumes o poetry andliterature, to An, his work is still ar rom complete. by Ines Min | photographs by Kim Hong-jin

    Culture inTranslation

    A tea connoisseur and brother o the

    France-based Christian monastery

    aiz, An is so-spoken but rm in his

    belies and opinions on Korea.

    Arriving here in May 1980, just

    a ew days beore the Gwangju

    Democratization Movement, Ans

    introduction to the country was stained

    BAck to HeAvenby Chon Sang-pyong, translated by Brother Anthon

    Ill go back to heaven again.

    Hand in hand with the dew

    that melts at a touch of the dawning day,

    Ill go back to heaven again.

    With the dusk, together, just we two,

    at a sign from a cloud after playing on the slo

    Ill go back to heaven again.

    At the end of my outing to this beautiful wor

    Ill go back and say: It was beautiful

    poems evoke his childhood experiences,

    the lie o the people in the villages down

    in Jeollabuk-do Province, the village

    lie, the women, the children during the

    Japanese colonization, just beore the

    war. O course, lie was harsh, children

    died, people were hungry, but it was

    very close to lie.

    What approach do you think Korea

    literature needs in order to appeal

    more to an international audience?

    A lot o Korean ction is written or a

    Korean readership, and Korean write

    o ction tend to assume a kind o

    shared culture, psychology. So when

    you translate it, and its read in anoth

    culture, people are mystied because

    things that need to be explained are n

    explained theyre assumed.

    Another thing is that a lot o Korea

    ction, I think, is much too simple. S

    much o it is the narrators particular

    voice, oen a emale voice, telling a st

    or a series o things that happen with

    almost no development or ambiguity

    suspense. Modern ction tends to pla

    on diferent narrators telling the sam

    event or you have altered versions o

    what has happened. Te reader is le

    with some kind o sense that Korean

    literature can tend to be sentimental.

    A lot o people in the world like

    sentimental ction, though. I mean, w

    saw that with Shin Kyung-sooks Plea

    Look Afer Mom. You cant have a mo

    sentimental book. But it appeals to

    readers in America, and sales have be

    quite good, so why not?

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    great korean

    D

    osanAhnChang-hoMe

    morialFoundation

    Walking around the

    streets o downtown

    Riverside, Caliornia, one

    can see statues o amous

    historical gures. Te

    likeness o Martin Luther

    King Jr and Mahatma

    Gandhi can be ound, as

    well as one other: Ahn

    Chang-ho. Te Korean

    independence activist is

    such a well-known gure

    on the West Coast that

    Riverside designated

    August 11 the day

    Ahns statue was unveiled

    to the public as Dosan

    Ahn Chang-ho Day.

    Te legend o Dosan,

    Ahns pen name, can

    be seen throughout the

    state: Los Angeles has a

    reeway interchange named Dosan Ahn

    Chang Ho Memorial Interchange, while

    there is a post oce named aer him

    in the citys Koreatown. He will also be

    the rst East Asian to be inducted into

    the International Civil

    Rights Walk o Fame at

    the Martin Luther King

    Jr Center on Jan 6, 2012.

    Te center was

    established in 1968

    to honor civil rights

    pioneers rom around

    the world. Inductees

    include ormer US

    Presidents Jimmy

    Carter and Bill C linton;

    Andrew Young, a ormer

    ambassador to the UN;

    Arican-American civil

    rights activist Rosa

    Parks; Stevie Wonder

    and Jesse Jackson. Why,

    you might ask, is Ahn

    Chang-ho so respected

    in the United States?

    Ahn was born in

    Gangseo (now North Korea) in 1878,

    during the close o the Joseon Dynasty

    (1392-1910) and a time when the nation

    was plunged into conusion with the

    prospect o oreign invasion.

    A portrait of Korean independence activist andeducator Dosan Ahn Chang-ho (above). Ahnstands barefoot in an orchard (opposite top). Agroup photo at a branch of the academy Ahnfounded in Pyeongyang (opposite middle). Afamily portrait of Ahn Chang-ho, his wife andfour children (opposite bottom).

    Te outbreak o the First Sino-

    Japanese War (1894-1895) had a major

    impact on Ahn, who was studying

    the Chinese classics at the time. Te

    war made him realize the necessity

    o introducing a new culture and

    civilization to his country and raising an

    independent Koreas status and power.

    When Japan won the war and

    revealed its desire to invade Korea, Ahn

    headed to Seoul to study. In 1896 he

    attended Gusae Hakdang, a missionary-sponsored school in the capital city run

    by Horace G Underwood, and converted

    to Christianity. In 1897, he joined the

    Independence Association, a social

    political group which ocused on the

    importance o a sovereignty that did not

    rely on oreign inuences.

    He also started his career as an

    independence activist and educator

    around this time. At the age o 22,

    he established the rst private co-ed

    primary school in Korea. In 1902, he le

    or America to get a better education.

    While studying in San Francisco and

    Riverside, he witnessed the same

    discrimination and contempt his

    countrymen overseas were experiencing,

    and began to dedicate his time

    protecting the rights o local Koreans by

    ounding the Korean Fellowship Society.

    His activism led him to become one o

    the rst people to bring together the

    Korean-American community.

    Te Eulsa reaty between Japan and

    Korea in 1905, which virtually sealed

    Koreas ate as a colony o Japan, brought

    Ahn back home to Korea. Upon his

    return, he launched the New Peoples

    Association, a clandestine organization

    or ostering the countrys independence,

    ounded the Dae Sung School or

    secondary education and organized the

    Young Students Association to nurture

    uture Korean leaders.

    Hounded by the Japanese police,

    A Life Dedicatedto a Nation

    Many have ollowed in the ootsteps o legendary independence activist AhnChang-ho. He devoted more than six decades o his lie to Korean independenceand the unity o its people. Even today, Koreans owe much o what the country

    has achieved to his hard work. by Seo Dong-chul

    he moved to China and then to

    Vladivostok, Russia, to explore bases or

    his independence movement. He moved

    to the US via Siberia aer trying to bring

    together the Korean community in the

    Russian Far East.

    On March 1, 1919, as protests

    against Japanese colonial rule swept

    the whole nation, independence

    activists gathered in Shanghai to ound

    an interim government. Ahn joined

    this government and devoted himselto national independence, holding

    important posts such as Secretary o the

    Interior, Deputy Prime Minister and

    Secretary o Labor.

    He was imprisoned by the Japanese in

    1938 while trying to integrate diferent

    independence groups. He passed away

    just seven years beore the liberation o

    Korea, on Aug 15, 1945. oday, he rests

    in Dosan Park, Seoul, which was opened

    in commemoration o the activist in

    1973. Ahn dedicated his lie to restoring

    Korean independence and leading a

    prosperous nation. oday, his legacy

    is still admired in the communities in

    which he earned his reputation, rom

    Seoul to Riverside.

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    seoul

    From above, clockwise: A parade at the 2010 Itaewon Global Village Festival;Paraguayan empanadas at Comedor; a dish at OKitchen; A woman eyes her hotstreet kebab in Itaewon.

    One block west, OKitchen cooks u

    impeccable usion are, like basil pest

    orecchiette with ingredients grown o

    the Korean-Japanese owners Mount

    Dobongsan arm.

    Joe McPherson, ounding editor o

    the ZenKimchi Korean Food Journal

    calls Itaewon an incubator or ethn

    restaurants and the neighborhood

    where restaurateurs test new ingredie

    in Korea. He names Spanish tapas,

    Brazilian churrascaria and homebrewbeer as the ckle scenes latest trends

    Just like the menus, Itaewons

    clientele is changing. With the

    neighborhoods dark past behind it, a

    generation o globally-minded Korea

    now outnumber oreigners at many

    establishments. On a recent Sunday

    evening, 22-year-old Lee Uik-won

    was among them. A student who has

    traveled and lived overseas, he enjoys

    Itaewons unique mix. He explains, Y

    can make oreign riends and eat vari

    countries oods. It eels exotic.

    Tis past spring, a similar sentimen

    was echoed by the hit single, Itaewon

    Freedom by the duo UV and produce

    Park Jin-young. Spread virally over

    social media, the videos silly retro m

    eatured Koreans with ake Aros sing

    about a new world where everyone

    meets in Itaewon.

    While some lament Itaewons

    gentrication, Wolounds owner Go

    welcomes the richer mix. Koreans no

    comprise about 60% o his weekday

    patrons, and he says the pubs tightly

    packed tables encourage socialization

    In short order, he says, people talk an

    interact and everyone has a good tim

    As Koreas oreign population now

    exceeds 1 million, the country has

    entered its multicultural era. And, at

    least in Itaewon, breaking bread has

    proven to be the best way to break do

    cultural barriers.

    a ailed 16th-century invasion.

    odays invaders, however, come

    armed with oreign avors. Itaewon is

    probably the only neighborhood in the

    city where a ew meters could separate

    a urkish restaurant, an Irish pub and

    Comedor, a boisterous hole-in-the-wall

    serving Paraguayan empanadas.

    In recent years, these culinary odd

    couples (and threesomes) have made

    Itaewon the destination or local oodies.

    And yet, this wasnt always the case.

    When Canadian Wayne Gold arrived

    in 1997, the neighborhoods oreign

    options were a Western grill, a Tai

    restaurant and a ew bad Italian eateries.

    Whats more, the neighborhood was

    better known or vice than vittles.

    By the mid-2000s, however, the scene

    was already changing. In 2006, Gold and

    three riends opened an Irish pub, the

    Wolound. Around the same time, the

    stretch o asphalt behind the Hamilton

    Hotel was showing early signs o what

    was to come.

    oday, the alley is anchored by

    delicious destinations like Zelen, Koreas

    only Bulgarian eatery. Customers o

    the green-themed restaurant can enjoy

    delectablepulneni chushki, baked

    peppers stued with rice and minced

    meat and topped with yogurt and resh

    dill. Tis being eclectic Itaewon, you can

    wash it down with Mukuzani wine rom

    Georgia or a Jgerbomb.

    Savoring ItaewonsRich MixAter decades o being labeled a seedy playground,Seouls colorul Itaewon neighborhood has parlayed itsmulticultural mix into becoming the citys mostcosmopolitan restaurant scene. by Matt Kelley | photographs by Choi Ji-young

    Zelen

    OKitchen

    The Wolfhound

    Comedor

    ItaewonStation,Subway Line 6

    Te sidewalks around Itaewon Station

    are embedded with brass plaques. Each

    depicts a country, its ag and how to

    say hello in the respective language. In

    Seouls multicultural hamlet o Itaewon,

    such inormation is actually useul.

    o celebrate their unique cultural

    mosaic, every autumn local ocials

    and merchants host the Itaewon Global

    Village Festival. In-costume, the estivals

    participants resemble an exaggerated

    version o daily lie in Itaewon, a Seoul

    neighborhood thats been synonymous

    with oreign or decades, i not

    centuries. In act, some etymologists

    think the word Itaewon alludes to

    oreign soldiers who stayed behind afer

    4

    1

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    travel

    T

    opicImages

    Te sun crosses the water around

    Incheon and heads west aer completing

    its days work. Mountains and rivers

    are colored red-orange like a ripe

    persimmon, almost as i theyre grieving

    over their separation rom the sun.

    Beginning with the islands in the Yellow

    Sea, they gradually embrace the parting

    o ways. Soon, night will all, and the

    two main majestic towers on Incheon

    Bridge will shine in the darkness.

    Cutting-EdgE City Im sitting atHeungnyunsa, a temple on Mount

    Cheongnyangsan. Tis is the perect spot

    to look over the Yellow Sea. Te dying

    embers o the sunset hit everything here

    the trees, the grass, the rice elds.

    Te same is not true in the city. With

    most people locked up in oces all day,

    urban dwellers arent aorded the same

    chance to watch the sun go down. Its

    ironic that its only humans who cant

    eel the sun and the wind, and embrace

    such a beautiul sunset when every other

    creature on the planet can.

    Incheon is a city o sunsets and

    beaches, while not being very ar away

    rom Seoul. O the coast o Incheon,

    the sun sets on an endless horizon,capturing everyones attention as

    they stop and turn towards the west.

    People living here are able to savor that

    enchanted moment every day.

    At the southern tip o the city is a p

    called Soraepogu. At daybreak, the po

    is alive with conversation and laughte

    echoing the sounds o the splashing

    sh. Te Yellow Sea around the Korea

    Peninsula may not be home to the

    largest diversity o sea creatures, but

    nights catch o founder, black rock

    gizzard shad, mullets and blue crabs w

    all be available at the local market the

    next morning.

    Visitors rom both Incheon and Se

    swarm to Soraepogu to relish in thevibrant sea lie and port market. Man

    people choose to eat the sh raw, wh

    is called hoe in Korean. Indeed, there

    are ew other things as delicious as ho

    Part o what makes cities like Venice, Amsterdam and Macau special is that theyreall located near bodies o water. Incheon ollows in this model, and adds to it aworld-class international airport and the site o the 2014 Asian Games.by Chung Dong-muk | photographs by Park Jeong-Roh

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    wrapped in lettuce withgochujang(hot

    pepper paste), which is available right

    next to the market.

    Autumn in Soraepogu is the season

    or saeujeot(salted and ermented

    shrimp), which is one o the most

    important ingredients in kimchi.

    Saeujeot is made by ermenting shrimp

    caught between May and June or ve to

    six months, then salt is added and it is

    sealed in a big tin drum. Te longer the

    ermenting period, the higher the price

    it will etch.

    Saeujeot has a unique taste that

    adds a delicate favor to kimchi when

    ermented. Merchants at Soraepogu are

    oen very generous, allowing market

    visitors to reely sample any o their

    numerous products.

    Lying west o Seoul, Incheon is Koreas

    second biggest port city. Sailors leave

    through Incheon port when heading

    to the Pacic Ocean via the Yellow

    Sea, while the citys airport serves as a

    gateway to the rest o the world.

    Incheons geographical location hashistorically made it the rst Korean

    city to be exposed to outside infuences

    and adopt new items: daily necessities

    (matches, glass and soap), oreign ood

    is undoubtedly the Northeast Asia

    rade ower, a 68-foor building with

    an observatory on the 65th foor that

    commands a spectacular view o the

    sea and the city. Once all the work is

    completed on this landmark man-

    made city in 2018, Songdo will certainly

    attract the attention o the world, and

    the Northeast Asia rade ower will play

    a key role as a global business hub.

    Ten theres Songdo Convensia, the

    Compact/Smart City, the ri-Bowl,the Jack Nicklaus Gol Club and the

    many luxury hotels, some o which

    have completed construction. When

    all is said and done, this international

    city will come at a cost o more than

    1.4 trillion won (US$1.2 billion) and

    cover an area o 53.4sqm. It will be a

    global business hub that embraces the

    I and biotechnology industries with a

    knowledge-based industrial complex, a

    bio-industrial complex and cutting-edge

    industrial clusters.

    oday, a source o great pride or many

    is the Incheon Bridge, which graceully

    crosses over the adjacent sea to Songdo.

    Te bridge is 21.4km long, built with

    the latest technology, and supported by

    the two main towers, which are 238.5m

    high. It is Koreas longest bridge and the

    worlds h longest cable-stayed bridge.

    When you drive over it, youll eel as i

    youre running on the sea.

    Te current site o Incheon

    International Airport was created

    by reclaiming the land between two

    surrounding islands, Yongyudo and

    Yeongjongdo. Part o Koreas excellent

    construction reputation stems rom its

    vast experience in reclamation projects

    that take advantage o its unique ria

    coast.oday, Incheon International Airport

    is positioning itsel as a major global

    hub and has been ranked one o the

    top airports by the SKYRAX World

    (cider andjajangmyeon, or black bean

    noodles), and other things like baseball.

    For that same reason, Incheon has

    been chosen by the Korean government

    as the optimal place to launch a Free

    Economic Zone (FEZ). Incheons FEZ

    is a special area which aims to attract

    oreign investment with government

    support, based on the Foreign

    Investment Promotion Act. Foreign

    businesspeople are given various

    incentives here, including nancialsupport, prime industrial locations and

    tax benets.

    Te city designated the three districts

    o Cheongna, Yeongjong and Songdo

    as part o FEZ. O these three areas,

    Songdo International Business District

    is the astest growing.

    HEavEn on EartH You can ride a

    water taxi and travel a two-kilometer

    road created in Songdos Central Park

    while taking in the exotic views o this

    new city. Skyscrapers are going up all

    around and will remind visitors o

    international business centers in Asia

    like Hong Kong, Macau, and Singapore.

    And the skyline, when seen against the

    backdrop o a pure blue sky, is nothing

    less than dazzling.

    Te most impressive building here

    How to gEt tHErEC There are a number of routes from Seoul

    to Incheon, including three different

    Gyeongin Expressways. Choose the one nearest to

    your final destination in Incheon. Drivers can go over

    the Incheon Bridge from the airport when going

    south, or drive over the Yeongjong Bridge when

    heading north.

    Bs There are numerous buses that go from

    Seoul to Incheon. You can board a bus at

    Seoul Station, Gangnam Bus Terminal or Sinchon

    Rotary. An airport limousine also runs from theairport to downtown Incheon.

    t You can get to Incheon Station by transferring to Subway Line 1 on the Seoul

    Metropolitan Subway. At the airport, you can take the Incheon International Airport

    Railway and get off in the northern part of the city. You can also take a city tour by subway.

    wHErE to StayAs one of the biggest tourist attractions in the country, Incheon offers a wide range of

    accommodation, from five-star hotels to more affordable places. You can make a

    reservation online for the Sheraton Incheon Hotel and the Hyatt Regency Incheon Hotel. Mu

    Island Family Hotel (+82 32 752 5114) and Hotel Pi (+82 32 428 0314) are also nice places to

    stay. You could also try staying at one of the newer hotels in Songdo like the Songdo Park Ho

    (+82 32 210 7250) or the Songdo Bridge Hotel (+82 32 210 3000).

    wHat to EatOn top of its coastal location, Incheon has a special place in Korean history as it was th

    first city to open up to the outside world and thus has a great selection of cuisine.

    Famous restaurant streets include East Incheons Samchi, Bukseong-dong Jajangmyeon,

    Hwapyeong-dong Naengmyeon, and Bukseong-dongs Chinatown, to name a few. If you w

    to try some special Korean food outside the city, try the grilled shellfish at Eurwangni Beach.

    travEl information

    ichesCh

    Se Sepmke

    a e S iBd

    iche

    Se

    Airport Quality Audit or six straight

    years. Currently, it is the second largest

    handler o international reight and

    the eighth busiest or international

    passenger transportation.

    Beyond the airport is a series oislands that eature pristine natural

    beauty. wo sites everyone should visit

    are Eurwangni Beach and Angels Rock

    Beach on Yongyudo. Lovers on the

    stretch o the sandy beaches, seagulls

    above, and small restaurants dotting

    waterline add to a quiet, beautiul sce

    o relaxation.

    Incheon will soon host the 2014

    Asian Games, and is preparing or thprestigious event. Incheon is certain t

    become one o the most popular coas

    cities once Songdo is completed and

    aer hosting the Asian Games.

    a h e S (p). a e shesh (be). a k he bs Sepmke (be).

    estival fav

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    hough red beans are consumed yearround, winter is one o the best times to

    savor the mythical and gastronomicaadvantages opatjuk. by Ines Mi

    On the longest night o the year, during the coldest month

    o the season, Koreans traditionally sit down to a bowl o

    patjuk, or red bean porridge. Te winter solstice (dongji

    in Korean) is marked by the consumption o this dish due

    to generations o passed down olklore, and has come to

    represent a traditional constant.

    Te popular belie was that the color red rightens

    o spirits and dispels

    misortune, hence the red-

    coloredpatbeans o the

    patjuk. It was customary

    to sprinkle some o the

    porridge in the kitchen,

    ront gate and yard beore

    consumption, in order to

    ward o demons and protect

    rom inectious diseases. It is

    believed that these practices

    originated rom the tale o Gong Gong, a man who died

    on the winter solstice. Legend has it that Gong Gong hated

    patjuk with a passion, which is why his spirit shies away

    when conronted by it at a household.

    However, the most characteristic trait o patjuk is the

    saealsim rice cakes, which provide a break in texture rom

    the soened beans. Saealliterally means birds egg, in

    reerence to the shape and color o the glutinous rice balls

    that dot each bowl o patjuk. It was believed that a person

    should eat the same number o saealsim as his/ her age,

    which gave rise to the dongji colloquialism I ate another

    year (I am a year older).

    Patjuk is a airly simple dish to make, b eing comprised

    o sweetened red beans, rice and water. Te minimalist

    dish was typically consumed by itsel, with no side dishes,

    which is contrary to most Korean cuisine. Tis was due to

    the act that it used to be a winter meal, made when grains

    were sparse. oday, patjuk is oen eaten in accompaniment

    with dongchimi, or white water kimchi.Patjuk has a slightly sweet taste and a smooth texture.

    Tere is a variety o dierent traditional porridges (chicken,

    pumpkin, black sesame, etc), but it is patjuk that retains a

    much-loved winter niche.

    estival fav

    Y

    eongdongDriedPersim

    monsFestival(top);YonhapNewsAgency(belowl

    eft);GettyImages(opposite)

    PersimmonParadise

    Persimmons have long been a part o Asian tradition, and

    are particularly known or their diverse uses and preparation

    methods. One o the most popular varieties in Korea is the dried

    kind, which will be celebrated this year at the 2011 Yeongdong

    Dried Persimmons Festival.

    Held rom Dec 16 to 18, this years edition will eature a host

    o un amily events that make use o the ruits diverse attributes.

    Visitors can make their own jar o persimmon jam rom the

    regions best (cost is 1,000 won or US$0.88), participate in seed-

    spitting contests or even compete to see who can peel the orange

    ruit in a single, long strip. Tose who care or a bit o relaxation

    can dip their eet into a cool bath, made rom the leaves and

    peels o resh persimmons. An ice sculpture exhibit andgugak

    (traditional music) perormances will be held throughout the

    three-day event, and lessons in making cras rom the wood o

    persimmon trees will be oered.

    Te region o Yeongdong, Chungcheongbuk-do Province, is

    best known or its ruit harvests. Roughly 221,000 persimmon

    trees are cultivated on fve square kilometers in the county.

    Yeongdong comprises approximately 68% o the provinces entire

    persimmon production.

    Te frst persimmon trees were

    planted in Yeongdong in 1970, and

    today the crops line a 37km stretch

    o road that is known as Gam NamuGarosu (Persimmon ree Road).

    Each all, the abundant trees become

    spotted with the ripe ruits, creating

    an idyllic harvest scene. Ag fk, patjukas ff v sps a msf.

    Dont be fooled by this modest

    title, which alludes to the concept

    that the best food is homemade.

    Second Best is perhaps the best

    that can be bought, and

    oftentimes people will line up

    outside the entrance to get a taste.

    28-21 Samcheong-dong,

    Jongno-gu, Seoul

    Ph +82 2 734 5302

    Second BeSt PlAce in Seoul

    The festival is held at the

    Nangye Hall of Korean Classical

    (Traditional) Music & Youth

    Center in Yeongdong. From

    Dong (East) Seoul Bus Terminal,

    take an intercity bus to

    Yeongdong. The bus departs

    5 times a day starting at 8am.

    How to Get tHere

    PorridgeJust Right

    he season has arrived to indulge inwinter ruits, but set aside the oranges andmake way or persimmons. by Ines Min

    ch pay a h 2010 fsva (p f). Ks paak jam-makg (p gh). Psmms hag y (abv).

    now in korea

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    now in korea

    KyoboLifeInsurance

    Te rst Asian Dream Cup, a charity soccer game, was

    held on June 15 at Tong Nhat Stadium in Ho Chi

    Minh City, Vietnam. Famous soccer stars rom Korea

    and other countries, including Park Ji-sung, Park Ju-

    young and Nakata Hidetoshi, hosted a soccer clinic

    in a bid to provide hope and support to young soccer

    players in Vietnam. Prots rom ticket sales were

    donated to help develop youth soccer in Vietnam.

    Joined by other major stars, the estival was hosted

    by the JS Foundation, a social contribution group

    established by Park this year. Park says the oundation

    was a dream o his, adding, Id like to help make

    dreams come true and provide hope to children rom

    poor amilies, while providing an arena or diferentcountries to exchange cultures through soccer.

    Charity acts by celebrities like Park are not only

    attracting attention, but also raising public awareness

    on the concept o donating. Comedian Hwang Ki-

    TheBeauty of

    SharingAs the year comes to an end, a growingnumber o people rom sports stars tocorporations are giving moreattention to the underprivileged. Beyondthe conventional means o donating cashand goods, people are now volunteeringmore oten, while companies take agreater role in social responsibilityactivities. by Lee Se-mi

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    their own pockets. Te oundation, which aims to help young

    entrepreneurs, is the rst and to date largest social

    welare project launched voluntarily by Korean business

    leaders with their own unds.

    Kyobo Lie Insurance, Koreas leading lie insurer, won

    the Seoul Welare Award last year in recognition o its well-

    organized and consistent volunteer activities, which are

    considered a model or corporate social contribution.

    Kyobo established the Dasomi Foundation, which b ecame

    Koreas rst social corporation in 2007 based on the Kyobo

    Dasomi Caregiver eam, which started earlier in 2003. Te

    program runs in partnership with non-prot organizations,

    training disadvantaged women to be come proessional

    caregivers. Te women then return the ree ser vice by taking

    care o low-income patients. What started with 20 caregivers

    has today increased to 16,000.

    SKs social contribution oundation, Happy Nanum

    Foundation, is also carrying out a variety o programs, suchas Sunny (a college student-based volunteer group) and

    supporting the establishment o social corporations, which

    started with its Lunch Box to Share Happiness project.

    Tis last project gives out ree and nutritious lunches to

    www.korea.ne30|korea| december 2011

    children and senior citizens. It also provides jobs by training

    cooks rom socially marginalized groups so they can lead

    better lives and become nancially independent. Tere are

    currently 29 centers nationwide providing ree meals to 13,500

    people a day, while employing more than 500 people, 84% o

    which come rom low-income amilies.

    Modern donations Te public is becoming more involved

    in donating as well. As donations continue to increase, the way

    in which people share is also expanding.

    Park Im-ja joined a two-year volunteer program in

    Dandong, China, as a member o an international volunteer

    group organized by the Korea International Cooperation

    Agency (KOICA). Now studying childrens psychology at

    graduate school, she has been donating every month to several

    non-prot organizations since 2005. For Park, donating is a

    part o her lie. Ive been donating small amounts o money

    like 10,000 won [US$8.71] every month to a ew groups,including UNICEF and Nanum Munhwa. Although its not

    very much, it still gives me pleasure to share and makes me

    more ullled as a person. It eels good to help others. Im

    planning to gradually increase the amount as I graduate this

    soon, who serves as a PR ambassador or the undraising

    organization Community Chest Korea, has been holding

    undraising events since 2000. In the past decade, he has

    donated over 1,000 wheelchairs through the Big Bicycle

    March. Singer Kim Jang-hun, afectionately known as

    the Charity Angel, has donated more than 10 billion won

    (US$8.7 million) rom his concerts and commercials.

    noblesse oblige In Korea, many government-led

    undraising activities were taken over by private institutions in

    the 1990s. In 2000, the number o donation methods grew, as

    corporate social contribution expanded and more individualsjoined charitable organizations.

    Major Korean conglomerates are leading the way in the

    corporate world when it comes to sharing. Such corporate

    contribution is welcomed by the public as a practice o

    noblesse oblige, as these companies help the underprivileged

    by establishing social welare oundations.

    Last October, nine presidents rom Hyundai Group

    companies, including KCC, Hyundai Department Store,

    Hyundai Development, HI Investment & Securities Co,

    Ltd and Hyundai Heavy Industries, established the Asan

    Foundation with 500 billion won (US$435.5 million) out o

    HappyNanumFoundation(oppositebelow);JSFoundation(oppositeabove;above)

    semester and get a job, she says.

    From simple donations to emergency aid, young people

    are now emphasizing the concept o helping, which has onl

    increased with the accessibility o social media. Sharing has

    become as easy as simply clicking a button now.

    Te increasing use o smartphones has promoted diverse

    ways to share through social networking sites (SNS) such

    as witter, Facebook and Goo gle+. Tus, communicating

    through SNS has provided new ways o outreach with its re

    time communication making donations ast and easy.

    Te domestic Internet site Happy Bean is a good exampl

    o making donations a part o daily lie. Internet users can

    support non-prot groups o their choice by using the sites

    e-mail, or posting to blogs or Internet cas. Tey receive

    beans, a donation medium equivalent to 100 won (roughl

    US$0.10), and can make use o bean auctions, bean coupon

    and a bean store. Te site was launched in 2007, and in 201

    raised 550 million won (US$479,000) or the Haiti earthquaYoo Han-il, one o the sites bloggers, says, I like that I ca

    donate to an organization Im interested in just by blogging

    photos. It may not be a huge contribution, but it still makes

    me eel good that I can share something.

    Corporate donations

    In 2009, corporate donations increased by 100 billion won (US$87.1

    million) from the previous year. An emphasis on corporate social

    responsibility has been increasing, and the total amount of donations has

    risen every year. Since 2005, corporate donations have gone up by more

    than a trillion won.

    Unit: trillion won

    Y 2005 2006 2007 2008 2009

    Corporate Donations 2.5 2.8 3.3 3.4 3.5

    (Source: Koreas National Tax Service)

    ac H Hy-j wh c f cc Vm (v). Vu f uchx (w).pk J-u fu h f cc ().

    entertainment

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    Te Korean lm industry has been booming with hits in

    recent years, and estivals dedicated to Korean lms are now

    appearing across the world. Hallyu, or Korean wave, has

    moved rom television dramas to K-pop and is now advancing

    through the cinematic arts.

    Reaching major cities such as London, Singapore, Australia,New York and even Abu Dhabi, a solid run o estivals took

    place rom August to December. Some o the events are in

    their inaugural year, while others like the London Korean

    Film Festival now in its sixth installment are quicklyY

    onhapNewsAgency

    becoming traditions.

    Te growth o Korean lm estivals can be attributed to

    several actors. Te rst is the growing popularity o lms on

    an international level. According to the London Film Festival

    website, the total export o Korean movies in 1996 was about

    US$400,000. As o 2005, just nine years later, the amountincreased to US$76 million.

    Te quality o lms has also greatly improved over the years,

    with a number o directors earning the spotlight with their

    innovative works. Just this year, Park Chan-wook, Kim Ki-duk

    award-winning lms, opening with Bareoot Ki-bong, a

    touching story about a mentally disabled 40-year-old who

    runs a hal marathon on behal o his mother. Lead actors S

    Hyun-jun and ak Jae-hoon made a special appearance. Ot

    eatures screened include Cannes Un Certain Regard-winn

    Ha Ha Ha (2010) and indie ickRe-encounter.

    Te month-long Korean Film Festival in Australia took

    place in two cities, Sydney and Melbourne. Director Ryoo

    Seung-wan made a special appearance, and his lm Te Un

    served as the Sydney events opener. Te Australian estival

    hosted a competition or budding ethnic Korean lmmaker

    and an array o Korean traditional perormances were held

    Abu Dhabi is holding a three-day estival rom Dec 18 to

    o be screened is Old Partner, a documentary about an eldarmer and his 40-year-old cow; Le Grand Che, a story abo

    two ches competing to be the heir to the last Royal Che o

    the Joseon Dynasty; and Bronze Medalist, the touching stor

    o an all-emale high school liing team rom a rural town.

    The poster for years LondonKorean FilmFestival is seentheater (opposClockwise, fromfar left: a filmgat the Australifilm festival;director Kim Ji-woon (left) anLee Byung-hunthe London evin 2008; a Korefilm festival inMoscow this yvisitors inIndonesia at afestival in 2009

    With the growing popularity o Korean ilms at international ilm ests, Hallyus next step is in theemergence o estivals devoted to local cinema popping up all over the world. by Emily Shook

    Film Festival Frenzyand others were recognized at the triumvirate o lm estivals:

    the Cannes Film Festival, the Venice Film Festival and the

    Berlin International Film Festival.

    Te other is the active support o Korean consulates,

    embassies and organizations abroad, such as Korean culture

    centers, the Korean Film Council and the Korean Creative

    Content Agency. Korean lm estivals are oen hosted in

    conjunction with either an embassy or cultural center.

    Tis years London Korean Film Festival took place rom

    Nov 3 to Nov 24 and screened a wide variety o lms, rom the

    2011 amily drama Sunny to the animated box ofce success

    Leafe, a Hen into the Wild(based on the popular childrens

    novel). Te estival has proven itsel a must-go venue or

    Korean cinephiles looking to be the rst to see major Koreanworks. Kim Han-mins box-ofce hitArrow: the Ultimate

    Weapon made its UK premiere as the events opening eature

    while Kim Ki-duksArirangclosed the event.

    Tis years Singapore Korean Film Festival ocused on

    sports

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    www.korea.ne

    a sport that receives very little interest

    rom the Korean population and or

    which there is little inrastructure.

    Beore I made the national team, I

    trained at a school gymnasium without

    a proper mat. And it was so cold that I

    easily got ankle or wrist injuries Tere

    is only one rhythmic gymnastics mat

    that meets the international standard in

    Korea. Tats at the National raining

    Center (in northern Seoul), Son said in

    a Yonhap interview last year.

    Most people probably havent yet

    heard o Yang Hak-seon, or know much

    about the intricacies o the vault in

    gymnastics. But that may soon change

    completely. At the world gymnastics

    championships in okyo in October,

    Yang won the mens vault in historic

    ashion, by attempting the most

    dicult vault ever attempted at a world

    championship. He was almost perect,

    taking just a small step aer sticking the

    landing, exhibiting great power, strength

    and speed in the process.

    Yang unveiled the handspring ront

    triple twist back in July at a competition

    in Korea, in which he also took gold.

    Te vault has a degree o diculty o

    7.4, while the other top competitors

    in okyo attempted vaults no harder

    than 7.0. Te event sent a clear signal

    that hes the best in the world right

    now, eectively raising the bar or the

    competition in London.

    Perhaps no Korean athlete casts as

    great a shadow as Kim Yu-na, still one

    o Koreas biggest stars, in sports or

    otherwise, at home and abroad. But she

    was not the only Korean emale gure

    skater competing in Vancouver. Kwak

    Min-jeong was a respectable 13th, and is

    still just 17 years old.She was eighth at the Four Continents

    Championship and third at the Asian

    Winter Games this year. It remains to be

    seen i she can take the next step in this

    34|korea| december 2011

    No matter the sport,

    Korean ans love a

    world-beater. Despite

    the low prole o

    gure skating in

    Korea, Kim Yu-na

    became one o the

    countrys most

    beloved celebritiesas she ascended

    to the top

    o the

    gure

    skating world. Swimmer Park ae-hwan

    became a celebrity in his own right aer a

    gold medal at the 2008 Beijing Olympic

    Games, and even those who know little

    about swimming have ollowed the ups

    and downs o his career.

    Te ame o Jang Mi-ran a Beijing

    gold medalist in weightliing and

    ocially the worlds strongest woman extends beyond the sporting world,

    while Manchester United midelder

    Park Ji-sung (aka, Tree-Lung Park) tops

    them all. His status as a sports icon was

    cemented during the 2002 FIFA World

    Cup and reached new heights when he

    joined the English Premier League club

    a ew years later.

    Yet a new crop o athletes who have

    thus ar fown below the radar are

    looking to enshrine their names among

    Koreas biggest sporting stars. Nineteen-

    year-old gymnast Yang Hak-seon and17-year-old rhythmic gymnast Son

    Yeon-jae have both qualied or their

    rst Olympic Games and will arrive in

    London next summer with plenty o

    potential. Meanwhile, 2012 could see

    an heir apparent or Queen Yu-na move

    into the spotlight and Koreas next Major

    League Baseball player make his big

    league debut.

    Six months o competing and training

    abroad culminated with gymnast Son

    Yeon-jae qualiying or the Olympics at

    the 2011 World Rhythmic Gymnastics

    Championships in Montpellier, France,

    nishing 11th among 24 nalists in the

    individual nal. She will be among a

    group o just 16 competitors in London

    in the all-around event, which includes

    the hoop, ball, clubs and ribbon. Son

    will spend most o the next ew months

    training in Russia with her coach,

    Nadezda Kholodkova.

    Son will be one o Koreas most

    marketable athletes in the run-up to the

    Olympics. Her graceul, acrobatic moves

    and beauty have led many to draw

    comparisons between her and Kim Yu-

    na. Im pleased that they compare me

    to her shes so great, Son told YonhapNews Agency last year. But I have a

    long way to go.

    Te comparisons to Kim dont stop

    there. Like Kim, Son is competing inY

    onhapNewsAgency

    winters major competitions.

    Meanwhile, in Major League Baseb

    Park Chan-hos return to Asia and Ch

    Shin-soos struggles this past season

    have le baseball ans hoping that a n

    star can emerge in the major leagues.

    In 2012, that player could be Lee Hak

    ju, a 21-year-old shortstop rom Jeonj

    Jeollabuk-do Province. Lee has climb

    the rankings among proessional sco

    who believe the amp

    Bay Rays

    player could

    be an excellent

    leado hitter withspeed and play excelle

    deense, with the

    potential to someday be

    an all-star.

    Clockwise, fromopposite bottom:17-year-old figureskater Kwak Min-

    jeong; 17-year-oldrhythmic gymnastSon Yeon-jae;gymnast YangHak-seon; skaterKwak; Sonperforms.

    Success at home is one thing, but when an athletegoes abroad and beats the world, he or she is assureda heros welcome back home. KOREA looks at ourathletes who may be the next to reach superstardom, taking a place alongside Queen Yu-na, theChoo Choo rain and hree-Lung Park. by Matt Flemming

    Finding theNext Star

    special issue

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    K

    oreaTourismO

    rganiza

    tion

    On Nov 11 at 4am (KS) an announcement was made in

    Zurich, Switzerland, that sent more than 1,000 people gathered

    on Jeju Island into a renzy. Jeju had been named one o the

    new Seven Wonders o Nature in a competition hosted by the

    New7Wonders Foundation, a Swiss NGO that conserves and

    promotes heritage sites around the world.

    Te competition was the second o its kind rom the NGO,

    which previously selected Seven Wonders o the World in 2007

    rom a selection o 200 monuments. Jejus win is a part o the

    oundations second project to nd the New Seven Wonders

    o the Natural World. Aer a verication process, the winners

    will be ocially inaugurated in early 2012.

    Ranked 261st out o 440 initial locations in December 2008,

    Jeju was voted one o the 28 nalists in July 2009. Koreas

    largest island was then successully voted into the top 10beore it was announced as one o the nal seven. Te other

    six winners are the Amazon in South America; Ha Long

    Bay, Vietnam; Iguazu Falls, Argentina and Brazil; Komodo

    National Park, Indonesia; Puerto Princesa Underground River,

    the Philippines; and able Mountain, South Arica.

    Te Foundation had several criteria or competitors, at least

    one o which had to be met in order to qualiy: landscape,

    island, volcanoes, beaches, caves, rainall and orests. Some

    speculate that one o the reasons why Jeju was selected is

    because it is the only entry that met all seven criteria.

    Te island has long been a popular destination or couples in

    Korea, as well as a popular spot or lming V dramas due to

    its warm climate and sandy beaches. But aside rom the love-

    struck couples wandering along the islands beaches, there is

    just as much un to be had or the scientically minded.Geomunoreum , which reers to the oreum (Jeju dialect or

    parasite volcano), is regarded as the nest system o lava tube

    caves anywhere a act not lost on UNESCO, which in 2007

    recognized it as a World Natural Heritage Site.

    Seongsan Ilchulbong peak is perhaps one o the islands

    most iconic vistas, a 600-meter-wide crater rising rom the

    sea whose northwest side is a verdant hill that connects to

    Seongsan Village. In spring, the islands hillsides are swathe

    in bright yellow rape owers that overlook gol courses and

    network oolle walking trails.

    Te trails, 200km o connecting paths that take travelers

    all along the south coast o Jeju, were inspired by the amou

    Pilgrims rail in Spain and made rom hidden, orgotten

    routes. Te trails take visitors through orests, mountains a

    beaches, and ofer unrivalled viewsJejus dramatic volcanic landscape.

    Another unique attraction is the

    islands haenyeo. Concentrated on

    Udo Island (Cow Island), the haen

    are women amed or their natural

    skills as divers. Udo is small enoug

    that it can be traversed in a ew hours by scooter or gol car

    Recently, Jeju has become known or its gol acilities,

    which are so high-end that the island hosted a PGA our A

    event in 2004 at Jungmun Beach Gol Club. Highlighting th

    investment made in the island is the increase in world-clas

    gol courses, and the 12 country clubs in 2004 have more th

    doubled to 28 as o last year.

    According to the Korea JoongAng Daily, around 700,000

    tourists visited the island in 2010, accounting or 8.8% ototal tourist gures or the mainland. Te Jeju Developmen

    Institute projects that the results o the competition will

    increase tourism to the island by 8.5% in Korean tourists an

    massive 73.6% in oreign visitors.

    Mount Hallasan is anicon of Jeju Island(opposite). A haenyeodiver returns with hercatch (top left). An aerialphoto of SeongsanIlchulbong (above right).

    A New WorldWonder

    Jeju Island

    Jeju Island, also known as the Honeymoon Isle, wasrecently voted by members o the international public as

    one o the new Seven Wonders o Nature, beating outsome pretty prestigious competition. by Rob McGovern

    summit diplomacy

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    meters o natural gas annually rom

    Russia. For a country that importsnearly all o its energy, Koreas deal

    with Russia would ll 20% o the

    energy-hungry nations projected

    demands in 2015.

    The 30-year, US$90 billion deal,

    however, moved slowly because

    relations between the two Koreas

    worsened rapidly.

    Russia has recently moved to nudge

    the North to cooperate, and the stalled

    project gained momentum in August

    when North Korean leader Kim Jong-

    il met with Medvedev and expressed

    the isolated communist regimes

    willingness to cooperate with the

    pipeline construction.

    More progress was made beore

    Lees visit to Russia. The Korea Gas

    Corporation and Russias state giant

    Gazprom agreed in September to a

    new timetable o the gas pipeline

    project. They agreed that the

    construction o the pipeline will beg

    in 2013, and the Siberian gas supply

    the North will start in 2017.

    The two leaders agreed that the

    project, when successully carriedout, will bring economic benets to

    all three countries involved And

    they agreed to cooperate closely,

    said Park Jeong-ha, a Cheong Wa Da

    spokesman.

    Lee stressed that the project will n

    only provide economic gains, but al

    contribute to peace on the Korean

    Peninsula and improve inter-Korean

    relations. However, the president als

    spoke to the Russian leader about

    concerns o a North Korean risk.

    Because o the Norths past two

    provocations, the people are very

    concerned about the risk o building

    pipeline through the North, Lee wa

    quoted as saying by Park during the

    summit. We have high expectation

    or Russias role to resolve the issue.

    According to Park, the Russian

    expanding an

    international network

    An ambitious energy cooperation

    project between Korea and Russia was

    discussed during President Lee Myung-

    baks summit with Russian President

    Dmitry Medvedev in early November, as

    the two leaders rearmed their close

    cooperation to provide Russias naturalgas to South Korea via a pipeline

    through North Korea. In addition to

    his trip to Russia, Lee visited France to

    attend the Group o 20 Summit and

    joined the premier orum to talk about

    the global economic crisis.

    GAS PIPELINE PROJECT Lee arrived in

    St Petersburg, Russia, on Nov 1 and

    met with his Russian counterpart the

    next day. During the summit, the

    two leaders discussed a wide range

    o issues to delve into ways to give

    more concrete shape to the strategic

    cooperative partnership between the

    two nations, to enhance substantive

    collaboration and to work closelytogether or the modernization o the

    Russian economy, according to the

    Korean presidential oce o Cheong

    Wa Dae (the Blue House).

    In addition, the two leaders discussed

    issues concerning the Korean Peninsula

    and the international community, such

    as eorts to end North Koreas nuclear

    arms programs.

    The highlight o Lee and Medvedevs

    summit was their discussion on the

    project to supply Russias natural gas to

    Korea as early as 2015 possibly via

    North Korea by building a pipeline. The

    massive project has been in talks or

    two decades, and an agreement was

    conceived in September 2008 during

    Lees rst summit with Medvedev in

    Moscow. According to the deal, Korea

    would buy at least 10 billion cubicYonhapNewsAg

    ency

    President Lee Myung-bak and Russian PresidentDmitry Medvedev greet each other warmly(opposite). Members of the Group of 20 stand fora group photo at the G20 Summit in Cannes,France (above).

    President Lee Myung-bak visited Russia in November to push orward an ambitious project toimport Russias natural gas via a pipeline through North Korea. He moved on to France, where

    Lee urged business leaders to work w ith governments to ght the nancial crisis. by Ser Myo-ja

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    including collaboration or thesuccessul hosting o Seouls Nuclear

    Security Summit and Vladivostoks Asia-

    Pacic Economic Cooperation (APEC)

    summit next year.

    According to Cheong Wa Dae, the

    two leaders agreed to cooperate closely

    to resume the six-party nuclear talks

    to end North Koreas atomic weapons

    programs, based on the understanding

    that a comprehensive and undamental

    resolution o the nuclear crisis on the

    peninsula is the key to peace and

    stability o the region.

    Following the summit, Lee attended

    a luncheon hosted by his Russian

    counterpart. They later attended the

    closing ceremony o the Korea-RussiaDialogue, hosted by St Petersburg State

    University. It was the second time that

    the two countries hosted the event.

    The November visit was Lees third

    trip to Russia during his term. It was

    the leaders sixth summit, and their

    meetings have become a routine part

    o the two countries eorts to improve

    ties, according to Cheong Wa Dae.

    SEEKING BUSINESS COOPERATION

    Following his visit to Russia, Lee arrived

    in Cannes, France, to take part in

    the G20 and a conerence o global

    business leaders on the sidelines o the

    premier orum.

    According to Cheong Wa Dae, the

    agenda o the G20 Summit included

    response measures or the nancial

    crisis in the euro zone, macroeconomic

    policy coordination or the recovery