Kipling’s India

21 November – 03 December 2016 Mumbai - Kolkata

‘I am, by calling, a dealer in words; and words are, of course, the most

powerful drug used by mankind.’ Rudyard Kipling (1865-1936) was born and brought up in India. It was India that made him, that charged his imagination and inspired the stories and poetry that earned him the title of being the greatest writer of his day. To mark the 150th anniversary of his birth we’ll be travelling in the footsteps of Kipling taking in some of India’s most vibrant cities, the breathtaking vistas of the Himalayan foothills and the remote jungles of central India. The exclusive 13-day small group tour (November 22-December 3, 2016) begins in India’s vibrant commercial capital Mumbai where Kipling was born on December 30, 1865. Rudyard’s father John Lockwood Kipling had a profound influence on the development of the Indo-Saracenic style that would leave its mark on some of the city’s most iconic buildings such as the Victoria Terminus and a series of friezes at Crawford Market.

From Mumbai we journey into the foothills of the Himalayas travelling to Simla, the former summer capital of the British Raj. His annual visits to the hill station inspired some of Kipling’s most memorable works. A special feature of the New Delhi leg will be exploring the historic laneways, bazaars and havelis of the old city. The tour also includes Humayun’s Tomb (the breathtakingly beautiful precursor to the Taj Mahal), the 12th century Qutub Minar and the 14th century ruins at Lodhi Gardens.

Then it’s time for some wildlife safaris at Kanha National Part in central India, the setting for Kipling’s Jungle Book stories. The tour ends in Kolkata. Dubbed by Kipling as the “city of dreadful night”, Kolkata is also a city of poets and dreamers, of splendid though crumbling palaces and of some of the finest relics of the Raj. We’ll be visiting those parts of Kolkata that most evoke Kipling’s legacy as the “bard of the Empire”, such as the area around Dalhousie Square and the Victoria Memorial.

Tour Leader – John Zubrzycki Your host is writer and journalist John Zubrzycki. John has a degree in South Asian history and Hindi from the Australian National University. He has worked in India as a diplomat, consultant, foreign correspondent and tour guide, spending years searching out its hidden gems. He has written two books on India, both historical biographies, as well as numerous feature articles. His most recent book, The Mysterious Mr Jacob: Diamond Merchant, Magician and Spy, tells the story of the real Lurgan Sahib, one of the most memorable characters in Kipling’s classic novel, Kim. He is currently researching the historical links between Indian and Western stage magicians.

Joseph Rudyard Kipling Joseph Rudyard Kipling was born and brought up in India until the age of five. After schooling in England he returned to India to work as a journalist for The Civil and Military Gazette, Lahore, from 1882 to 1887, and then The Pioneer, Allahabad (“the leading paper in India,” as Kipling described it) from 1887 to 1889. He left India in March 1889, to return briefly in 1891. His father, J. Lockwood Kipling, came to India in 1865 as a teacher of art and crafts in Bombay (Mumbai) at what later became the J.J. School of Art. He moved in 1875 to Lahore as the curator of the city’s museum. When Rudyard Kipling left India in 1889, he was already the author of eight books of poetry and fiction set in India, including Departmental Ditties and Plain Tales from the Hills. Later, while living in Britain and America, he published several more works set in India, including a co-authored novel The Naulahka (1892), the two Jungle Books (1894, 1895), and finally, his masterpiece Kim (1901). The larger significance of Kipling’s formative and vital connection with India as a person and a writer is best summed up by one of his recent biographers: “India was where Rudyard Kipling was happiest, where he learned his craft, where he rediscovered himself through his writing and came of age as a writer. India made him, charged his imagination, and after he left India in March 1889 at the age of twenty-three he was most completely himself as an artist when re-inhabiting the two Indian worlds he had left behind.” (Charles Allen, Kipling Sahib, 2007) Kipling was one of Britain’s most popular writers, in both prose and verse, in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. Henry James said: "Kipling strikes me personally as the most complete man of genius (as distinct from fine intelligence) that I have ever known." In 1907, he was awarded the Nobel Prize in Literature, making him the first English-language writer to receive the prize, and its youngest recipient to date.

Itinerary overview Day 01 Arrive Mumbai Day 02 Mumbai Day 03 Mumbai Day 04 Mumbai-Shimla Day 05 Shimla Day 06 Shimla – New Delhi Day 07 Delhi Day 08 Delhi Day 09 Delhi-Kanha Day 10 Kanha Day 11 Kanha-Kolkata Day 12 Kolkata Day 13 Depart Kolkata

DETAILED ITINERARY

DAY 01, 21 NOV (MON) ARRIVE MUMBAI - Recommended flights are on Singapore Airlines After arriving in Mumbai by an international flight and clearing Customs and Immigration formalities, we proceed towards the airport arrival lounge where we are met by the Inspiration India representative, welcomed with garlands and transferred by private transport to the hotel. Assisted check-in at the hotel is available from 2.00pm. Overnight: The Gordon House Meals included: None http://www.ghhotel.com/gh_mumbai_south.html DAY 02, 22 NOV (TUE) MUMBAI Mumbai is the vibrant and pulsating capital of Maharashtra. The British acquired Mumbai from the Portuguese in 1665 and handed it over to their East India Company in 1671 for the handsome annual rent of ten pounds sterling in gold. For over a century, Mumbai has been a principal Indian commercial and industrial centre with its magnificent harbour, imposing Victorian architecture, modern multi-storied buildings, crowded thoroughfares, busy markets and beautiful tourist spots. After breakfast in the hotel we visit the J. J. School of Art, the birthplace of Rudyard Kipling. We’ll tour the grounds and meet with academic staff to discuss the legacy of Kipling’s father, John Lockwood Kipling. Crawford Market, south Mumbai’s main wholesale market, is a short distance away. The Lockwood Kipling friezes at the entrance ways to the colourful Crawford Market show scenes of Indian rural life and farmers bringing produce to the market. Amid stalls selling spices, fruit and vegetables stands “Kipling’s Fountain”, which is decorated with a harmonious jungle of carved animals and birds.

Rudyard Kipling was born on 30 December 1865 in Bombay, to Alice Kipling and John Lockwood Kipling and christened at St Thomas Cathedral. Lockwood Kipling, a sculptor and pottery designer, was Professor of Architectural Sculpture and the first principal at the newly founded Sir Jamsetjee Jeejebhoy School of Art in Bombay. Lockwood Kipling had a profound influence on the development of the Indo-Saracenic style that would leave its mark on some of the city’s most iconic buildings including the Victoria Terminus and a series of friezes at Crawford Market. The building known as Kipling's bungalow stands on the Art School’s campus and for many years was used as the Dean's residence. Although the bungalow bears a plaque stating that this is the site where the writer was born, the current building dates from the 1882, about 15 years after Kipling's birth. Lunch is at Trishna’s Mumbai’s most famous seafood restaurant We continue the program with an afternoon of the Prince of Wales Museum including a meeting with curators (TBC), followed by a visit to the National Gallery of Modern Art and the Jewish Synagogue.

One of the finest museums in India, the Prince of Wales Museum was opened in 1922. Located in the Kala Goda precinct, the building was designed by Scottish architect George Wittet who worked in the Indo-Saracenic architectural style, which Lockwood Kipling promoted. The style is a fusion of British and European architectural forms with some Indian characteristics incorporated. The museum features a rich collection of Indian miniatures, decorative artefacts and sculpture. We complete the day’s tour with visits to the nearby National Gallery of Modern Art and the Jewish synagogue. Established in 1954, the NGMA holds the India’s richest collection of modern art. The gallery’s collection of 17,000 works includes paintings, sculptures, graphics and photography from 1850 onwards. The Keneseth Eliyahoo synagogue, built in 1884, is the second oldest in Mumbai and a testament to the city’s once thriving Jewish community. Dinner at the Raj-era Royal Bombay Yacht Club opposite the Gateway of India Overnight: The Gordon House Meals included: Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner DAY 03, 23 NOV (WED) MUMBAI After breakfast we take a walking tour highlighting Lockwood Kipling’s influence on Mumbai’s architecture.

The UNESCO-listed Victoria Terminus (presently known as Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus) is one of the architectural gems of British India. The station was designed by Frederick William Stevens, a consulting architect in 1887-1888. It took ten years to complete and was named "Victoria Terminus" in honour of the Queen and Empress Victoria. Lockwood Kipling was responsible for training many of the Indian sculptors involved. The building is famous especially for its sculptural embellishments. The statue of Progress on top of the dome is a tribute to the vision of those who built it. We also visit St Thomas Cathedral, the Municipal Corporation Building and Ballard Estate. No visit to Mumbai is complete without an authentic Parsi lunch (Britannia or Jimmy Boy Restaurant). In the afternoon we resume our walking tour by exploring the throbbing Kala Ghoda art district, meander through the sleepy by-lanes of old Colaba, stroll down historic Dockyard Road, visit the splendid University Campus and enjoy the arcaded bazaars along the Victorian-style D.N. (Dadabhai Naoroji) Road. Afternoon tea at the Gymkhana Club Dinner at Khyber Restaurant (Indian cuisine)

Overnight: The Gordon House Meals included: Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner DAY 04, 24 NOV (THU) MUMBAI-CHANDIGARH-SHIMLA After an early breakfast we transfer to Mumbai domestic airport to board Jet Airways flight 9W 489 (09.40/11.55) for Chandigarh. Assistance on arrival at Chandigarh airport and drive to Shimla (approx. 3 ½ hrs). Arrive Shimla and check into the hotel, Oberoi Cecil, which is furnished in luxury-Raj style and has its own Kipling connection: it is built on the site of The Tendrils, one of his homes. Many of its rooms offer panoramic views over the mountains, with ranges silhouetted against each other. Shimla, the capital of Himachal Pradesh spills over the steep slopes of a 12kms long crescent shaped ridge in the lower Himalayas. It was once the glamorous summer capital of British India Home-sick civil servants tried to replicate the old country, giving the quaint bungalows perched precariously on ledges looking out over the Himalayas names like Rookwood, Daisy Bank, Bonny Moon and Windermere. They held picnics in the pine forests, played tennis at the Viceregal Lodge and gathered each evening at the appropriately named Scandal Point to exchange gossip and take in the cool mountain air. Dinner at the hotel Overnight: The Oberoi Cecil Meals included : Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner http://www.oberoihotels.com/hotels-in-shimla-cecil/ DAY 05, 25 NOV (FRI) SHIMLA One of the tour’s highlights will be a full day a exploration of Kipling’s Shimla with Mr. Raaja Bhasin author of Shimla –The Summer Capital of British India and a consultant on the Channel 4 series Indian Summers Kipling first visited Shimla (then known as Simla), the summer capital of British India, in 1883. By then it was established practice for the Viceroy of India and the government to move to Simla for six months to escape the heat of the plains. The town became a "centre of power as well as pleasure". Kipling's family became yearly visitors to Simla, and Lockwood Kipling was asked to serve in Christ Church there. Rudyard Kipling returned to Simla for his annual leave each year from 1885 to 1888, and the town featured prominently in many of the stories that he wrote for the Civil & Military Gazette. He describes this time: "My month’s leave at Simla, or whatever Hill Station my people went to, was pure joy—every golden hour counted. It began in heat and discomfort, by rail and road. It ended in the cool evening, with a wood fire in one’s bedroom, and next morn—thirty more of them ahead!—the early cup of tea, the Mother who brought it in, and the long talks of us all together again. One had leisure to work, too, at whatever play-work was in one’s head, and that was usually full." Lunch at the Simla Club Dinner at the hotel Overnight: The Oberoi Cecil Meals included: Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner

DAY 06, 26 NOV (SAT) SHIMLA / KALKA / DELHI After breakfast we embark on a relaxing tour of Shimla’s environs, including a visit to Wildflower Hall, former residence of Lord Kitchner, for a morning tea and to enjoy the spectacular mountain views. Return to hotel and lunch. Post lunch transfer to Kalka Railway Station to board Kalka Shatabdi (16.45/21.55) for Delhi. Assistance upon arrival at station and transfer to hotel. India’s capital since 1911, New Delhi is a fascinating and heady mix of old and new. Its numerous monuments span a period of almost a thousand years, evidence of a succession of remarkable dynasties. Driving through New Delhi we’ll see the ruins forts and palaces, mosques and temples, memorials and bazaars. The wide, tree-lined avenues of Lutyens Delhi are a reminder of Britain’s imperial past, while its commercial and business centres are evidence of India’s emergence as an economic power house. Overnight: The Claridges (Deluxe Room) Meals included: Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner http://www.claridges.com/hotels/the-claridges-new-delhi.html DAY 07, 27 NOV (SUN) DELHI Our first morning in India’s capital starts with a tour Lutyen’s Delhi including India Gate, the imposing President’s House, the North and South Blocks and Parliament House. We also visit the National Crafts Museum. As well as bringing artisans from all over India who demonstrate and sell their crafts on the premises, the museum has various galleries dedicated to tribal and rural crafts, the crafts of courtly India, a textile gallery, etc. Lunch at Café Lota at the Crafts Museum After lunch we drive to the Qutub Minar, Tower of Victory, built in the 12th century by Qutbuddin Aibak. The surrounding archaeological area contains numerous buildings, notably the magnificent Alai-Darwaza Gate, a masterpiece of Indo-Muslim art (built in 1311), and two mosques, including the Quwwatu'l-Islam, the oldest in northern India, built of materials reused from some 20 Brahman temples. Dinner at the Indian Accent Restaurant, the only restaurant in India to feature in the World’s 50 Best Restaurants 2015 Overnight: The Claridges (Deluxe Room) Meals included: Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner DAY 08, 28 NOV (MON) DELHI

Old Delhi evokes the Lahore of Kipling’s youth and our morning will be taken up by exploring the fascinating and living legacy of the Indo-Islamic culture and lifestyle of the walled city. Kipling visited Delhi on several occasions and

the city features in a number of his short stories. We wander through the busy, narrow streets of the mile-long Chandni Chowk, popularly called “Silver Street”, surrounded by shops and bazaars. We also visit the Jama Masjid with its tapering minarets and wonderful marble domes. The largest mosque of Old Delhi it can accommodate 20,000 people at one time. We also explore the historic havelis, gateways, mosques and temples associated with Delhi’s rich and fascinating history. Lunch at Lodhi –The Garden Restaurant After lunch we take in the splendour of the UNESCO-listed Humayun’s Tomb. Built in the 16th century and set in a beautifully restored Mughal garden, the tomb is considered the architectural forerunner of the Taj Mahal. From Humayun’s tomb it is a short drive to the relaxing Lodhi Gardens whose numerous tombs and mosques were built by the 15th century Lodhi kings. Optional shopping visit to nearby Khan Market, one of Delhi’s most interesting shopping areas. Dinner at Dhaba Restaurant at the hotel Overnight: The Claridges (Deluxe Room) Meals included: Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner DAY 09, 29 NOV (TUE) DELHI / NAGPUR / KANHA Early morning, transfer to airport to board Air India flight AI 469 (05.45/07.35) for Nagpur. Arrive Nagpur and drive to Kanha National Park (approx. 5.5 hrs). On arrival check into the camp. Kanha National Park is often cited as the inspiration for the landscapes in Kipling’s much-loved Jungle Books. Kanha is one of the largest national parks in India extending over 1945 sq. km. of undulating country, which includes a core area of 940 sq km. Kanha has some 22 species of mammals including tiger, jackal, hyena, panther, mouse deer, four-horned antelope, porcupine and wolf. The park also has some 200 species of birds. Kipling Camp was established by the Wright family, passionate advocates for wildlife protection, whose connection with the Indian Subcontinent began in the late 1700s. Kipling Camp is also the home of Tara — the heroine of Mark Shand’s

epic tale Travels on my Elephant. After an al fresco lunch at Kipling Camp we depart for the first of two safaris into Kanha’s wilderness. Game drives provide the best opportunity for all types of wildlife viewing, from bird and butterfly watching, to sighting the major prey species and chancing an encounter with a big cat. The drives would incorporate different regions of the park, showcasing its huge bio-diversity. Afternoon drives are predominantly in the Mukki region, often parked quietly aside water holes, waiting and watching for the late evening activity.

Lunch & Dinner at the Camp. Overnight: Kipling Camp Meals included : Breakfast on the flight, Lunch & Dinner http://www.kiplingcamp.com/intro.html DAY 10, 30 NOV (WED) KANHA Morning: Jeep safari drive into the park. Afternoon: Walking safari park hinterland/ village tour. The park is closed on Wednesday afternoons. Overnight: Kipling Camp Meals included: Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner DAY 11, 01 DEC (THU) KANHA / RAIPUR / KOLKATA Post breakfast: Checkout and drive to Raipur Airport to board Jet Airways flight 9W 7037 (1510/1655hrs) to Mumbai. Arrive Mumbai and connect 9W 625 (17.55/20.35) for Kolkata. Assistance on arrival and transfer to hotel. Dubbed by Kipling as the “city of dreadful night”, Kolkata is also a city of poets and dreamers, of splendid though crumbling palaces and of some of the finest relics of the Raj. The tour concentrates of those parts of the former Imperial capital that most evoke Kipling’s legacy as the “bard of the Empire”, such as the area around Dalhousie Square, the Victoria Memorial and the British Cemetery on Park St. The capital of the British Raj until 1911, Kolkata retains its imperial splendour in its grand buildings and rich colonial heritage. Kolkata is frequently referred to as India’s intellectual capital, the birthplace of some of its best-known writers, artists and filmmakers. Its teeming bazaars and stately mansions are testimony to its prominence as the commercial hub of eastern India. Kolkata is a vibrant, many-layered city with a rich cultural life and many fascinating areas to explore. Overnight: Taj Bengal Meals included : Breakfast, packed Lunch from Kipling Camp (NO dinner) http://www.oberoihotels.com/hotels-in-shimla-cecil/ DAY 12, 02 DEC (FRI) KOLKATA After breakfast we drive past the Maidan and Eden Gardens cricket stadium to commence our walking tour of central Kolkata including the Great Eastern Hotel where Kipling stayed, Raj Bhawan, The Writer’s Building, Calcutta High Court, St. John’s Church etc. Lunch at The Lalit Great Eastern In the afternoon we venture into busy north Kolkata to visit the Marble Palace and Indian Coffee House The sprawling 19th century mansion of the Mullick family, The Marble Palace houses an eclectic collection of art and antiques ranging from Old Masters to statues of Hindu gods. The palace earned its name from the 90 varieties of patterned marble on its floors. There are paintings by Reubens and Joshua Reynolds, Dresden figurines and Bohemian goblets. The author Geoffrey Moorhouse described it as ‘the richest, the quaintest, the eeriest, the most haphazard and the most ridiculous, the most astounding and the most loveable’ place in Kolkata. We also visit the nearby historic India Coffee House on College Street opposite Calcutta University where generations of Bengali students have congregated to debate politics, swap news and relax. Farewell dinner at the poolside in the hotel.

Overnight: Taj Bengal Meals included: Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner DAY 13, 03 DEC (SAT) KOLKATA /DEPART On our last morning in India we visit the Victoria Memorial and the Self Help Enterprise

Funded by Indian princes, the British government and the former Viceroy of India Lord Curzon, the Victoria Memorial was inaugurated by the Prince of Wales in 1921. Constructed from the same marble use by the Mughal emperor Shah Jahan to build the Taj Mahal, the Memorial exudes majesty and elegance. It houses a number of galleries displaying a rich collection of sculpture, painting, armaments and other historical treasures.

SHE (Self Help Enterprise) is a not-for-profit NGO focused on women’s welfare in rural Bengal. Through its attempts to revive Kantha, the traditional quilting stitch of Bengal, SHE provides of artisans with the required training and support to produce exquisite pieces for international markets. SHE is a great place to pick up some exquisite textiles. Lunch at Kewpie’s renowned for its Bengali food For those who don’t want to return to the hotel and relax, there is an optional visit to Kalighat temple dedicated to the Hindu Goddess Kali. Kalighat is the most important pilgrimage site in Kolkata.

Late check out at 18.00 and transfer to airport to board an international flight back to home. Meals included today: Breakfast & Lunch

END OF TOUR

TOUR COST – BASED ON 8 PARTICIPANTS

$7,890 - Twin share per person $9,525 - Single If minimum numbers are not reached, then Travel on Q may offer participants a surcharge based on the actual numbers to ensure that the tour proceeds. Otherwise deposits will be refunded, less a $25 administration fee.

To book this tour, please contact Travel on Q for a booking form. A non- refundable deposit of $750 is required. The balance will be due 65 days prior to departure. Credit card payments accepted.

Contact details appear below.

TOUR INCLUSIONS: Accommodation for 12 nights on double occupancy basis in the mentioned hotels or

similar with late check-out on day 13. Meals as per the programme. Breakfast at all places, 12 Lunches and 09 Dinners One welcome and one farewell dinner with Indian house wines.

Transportation by Mini Coach at Mumbai, Delhi and Kolkata, Mini Van at Kanha for transfers and Toyota Innova’s at Simla.

Two game safaris at Kanha by Jeeps. Mineral water during transfers and sightseeing. Entry fees and monuments fees (single entry) as per programme. Local English speaking guides in Mumbai, Simla and Kolkata. Accompanying Tour leader costs. All tipping throughout the tour. All currently applicable taxes.

TOUR EXCLUSIONS:

International airfares, visa fees, airport tax and Travel insurance. Beverages and any other meals than those mentioned in the itinerary. Still and video camera fee at monuments and game parks. Items of personal nature - laundry, telephone calls and internet fees if applicable. Any other item not specifically mentioned above as 'INCLUDED'.

GENERAL CONDITIONS:

Prices are in Australian dollars based on the current exchange rate to the Indian Rupee. Prices are subject to change if the exchange rate varies significantly. Check-in time is 2pm and check-out time is 11am. All prices are subject to any revision of Indian and tariff changes. Travel insurance is compulsory. The Tour operator/Tour Leader/Travel Agent is not liable for or to be held responsible for

changes in the itinerary due to reasons beyond their control ie: flight and train schedule; cancellation of flights, political disturbances, natural phenomena.

OPERATIONAL RESTRICTIONS: All Museums are closed on Mondays. National Parks in Madhya Pradesh are closed on Wednesdays afternoon.

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