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KICKSTART

Volume 35 No 8 AUGUST 2020

The Official Journal of The Vintage Motorcycle

Club. Member of S.A.V.V.A.

Affiliated to The Vintage Motorcycle

Club Of the United Kingdom

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Table of Contents

VMC CALENDAR OF EVENTS 2020 ....................................................................................................... 3

CHAIRMAN’S CHAT .............................................................................................................................. 4

EDITORIAL ............................................................................................................................................ 4

NOTICE OF ANNUAL GENERAL MEETING ............................................................................................ 5

THE PASSING OF ARCAS VAN ROOYEN................................................................................................ 7

HOBBY X SHOW 2021 .......................................................................................................................... 8

INTRODUCTION TO REGULARITY TIME TRIAL RALLIES – The next step – Practical. ........................... 9

VICTORIA YARDS RUN ........................................................................................................................ 11

UPCOMING EVENTS ........................................................................................................................... 12

FROM THE READERS .......................................................................................................................... 13

Spark Plug Issues ................................................................................................................................. 13

Lockdown Restoration ........................................................................................................................ 13

SPOKED MOTORCYCLE WHEEL BUILDING ......................................................................................... 14

5th VIRTUAL CLUB MEETING - JULY 2020 .......................................................................................... 22

DID YOU HEAR? ................................................................................................................................. 24

CLASSIFIEDS ....................................................................................................................................... 25

FOR SALE: ............................................................................................................................................ 25

WANTED: ............................................................................................................................................ 25

SERVICES: ............................................................................................................................................ 25

CLUB and CONTACT DETAILS ............................................................................................................. 27

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VMC CALENDAR OF EVENTS 2020

Date Event Club Location

31 Jan – 1 Feb

Zwartkops Day of the Champions

Zwartkops / Pretoria

9th Feb. Pre D.J. Run CMC Germiston

Feb. Brit. Motorcycle Gathering BMA Knysna

23rd Feb. D.J. Bikes on Show VVC VVC Oaklands

13-14 Mar. D.J. Rally 2020 VVC Heidelberg / Hillcrest

15 March DJ Prize Giving Breakfast VVC Shongweni

21 March POMC Summer Rally POMC Zwartkops Race Track CANCELLED

Sun. 29 Mar. Century Run VMC Kromdraai area CANCELLED

Sun. 5 April Angela’s Picnic SAMCA Delta Park, Victory Park CANCELLED

1 May Dam Busters Run Sunbeam Club

Hartebeespoort Dam CANCELLED

15 – 16 May Fragram Natal Classic NCMC ATK Drakensville Resort CANCELLED

31 May Cars In The Park – KZN VSCC Pietermaritzburg / CANCELLED

31 May Motorcycle Day at VVC VVC Oaklands CANCELLED

6th June Mampoer Rally POMC WPM Bronkhorstspruit

21 June DJ Memorial Run VMC James Hall Museum -Wemmerpan

4-5 July 1000 Bike Show CMC Germiston CANCELLED

2nd August Pretoria Cars In The Park POMC Zwartkops CANCELLED

TBA Wheels at the Vaal VOWC Vaal CANCELLED

12 – 16 Aug. Magnum Rally POMC Hazyview CANCELLED

29th Aug. Social ride to Ascot Mews VMC Alberton TBA

13th Sept. Social ride in the Cradle VMC Cradle of Mankind

24th Sept. Great Train Race C.Van Heidelberg

27Th Sept. Distinguished Gentleman’s Ri DGR Register on DGR website

28Th Sept. VMC AGM + Club Night VMC Oaklands

8th Nov. Armistice Run (Flat Tankers) VV/VMC Oaklands to Saxonwold WM

1st – 3rd Nov. Fairest Cape Rally CVMC W.CAPE CANCELLED

TBA Historical Run VVC TBA James Hall Museum?

6th Dec. Ride in Memory VMC Cullinan

7th Dec. Chairman’s Cocktail Party VMC Oaklands - Wife / Partner most welcome

Recurring Events 1st Sunday CMC Club Sunday CMC Germiston

2nd Sunday VMC Social rides VMC As advertised

3rd Sunday Piston Ring PR Modderfontein

4th Monday VMC Club Monday Night VMC Oaklands

Last Sunday VVC Club Sunday VVC Oaklands

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CHAIRMAN’S CHAT Ralph Pitchford.

Now that the country has moved to Level 2 we as a committee have decided to get on with it and

return to having Monday Club night meetings. This Monday 24th August at 19h30 will be our first club

night meeting since February this year. We will do temperature screening, sanitizing, etc on arrival.

The format will be like always with a raffle, bike talk & the usual video. The good news is that the bar

will be open.

Various rides & events are been planned by the committee members so keep a look out for emails &

also check out the calendar in Kickstart.

The AGM will be happening at our September 28th meeting so please forward your nominations &

offer your services.

Safe and Fun riding.

EDITORIAL Steven Helm.

Last month in my article regards highlighting club commitments I mentioned some things about the

Classic Motorcycle Club. These were greatly unappreciated by their past and present Chairmen who

complained officially.

Let me take the opportunity to apologize to the CMC committee & its members for the comparison

that I made and in alleging that they are with minimal funds, I was corrected in that this is untrue. My

intention was simply to highlight the need for a bike show especially with all the work our members

have managed to put into bikes during this period. I was guilty of some badly attempted humour

which was out of place in our current economy and situation.

This articles origin was solely mine and I would also like to apologize to all VMC members as

comments like this taint us all and relations between our clubs do not need the strain.

Steven.

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NOTICE OF ANNUAL GENERAL MEETING MONDAY 28TH SEPTEMBER 2020

Notice is hereby given that the Annual General Meeting for the Vintage Motorcycle Club will

be held at the VVC Clubhouse on Monday, 28th September 2020 at 19:30 to transact the

business listed below. The club meeting will follow after the AGM.

AGENDA

1. Welcome to all members present by Chairman – Ralph Pitchford

2. Quorum (15%) membership or by a proxy. Apologies for absence

3. The notice convening the meeting

4. Chairman’s report

5. Treasurers report

6. Election of office bearers

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THE VINTAGE MOTORCYCLE CLUB

MINUTES OF THE ANNUAL GENERAL MEETING - 2019

Date: 26th August 2019

Venue: Vintage and Veteran Club

Action Items / Noted / Resolved

1. Present :

1.1 32 x Members attended 9

x Apologies received

2. Notice of Meeting :

2.1 The required notice of the meeting having been circulated to all members, was taken as read, with the consent of the meeting.

3. Welcome :

3.1 The Chairman, Ralph Pitchford, welcomed all the members present to the AGM.

4. Business of AGM :

4.1 The Chairman presented and circulated his report which gave an overview of the Club’s activities of the past year.

4.2 The Treasurer circulated the financial statements for the financial year ending 30 June 2019.

4.3 No comments were received from the quorum with regards to the financial report.

4.5 The committee members remain as follows : Chairman :

Ralph Pitchford

Vice Chairman : Ian Holmes

Treasurer / “Kickstart” Editor : Peter Vliestra

Secretary : David Pitchford

Event Organiser : Rob Pattison-Emms

Librarian : John Hassall

Committee Member : Brandon Jarvis

Mark Broady

Frank Barnes

Calendar : Richard Hulsbos

Dating Officer : Kevin Walton

5. Closure :

5.1 The AGM meeting closed at 20:30 and Ralph Pitchford continued with the club night.

Signed Chairman: Date:

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THE PASSING OF ARCAS VAN ROOYEN

Dear Fellow VMC Motorcyclists,

Arcas passed away on the 3rd of this month, aged 84 – quite suddenly, heart failure. Strange actually, because

at age 50 he was still fit enough to play a rugby friendly with the likes of Springboks Pierre Spies, Louis

Moolman, Thys Lourens and Andre van Staden (His last game was at age 55). Due to Covid 19 regulations the

funeral went ahead with only family and a few of his oldest friends.

Arcas was my friend for 63 years. During that time we had a passionate interest in firearms, especially rifles,

bushveld /ethical hunting “for the pot”/biltong – camping wild. Those were the days my friend – no so-called

guides! He and I naturally belonged to hunters and firearm- collector associations. Arcas over time became

increasingly emotionally involved with old cars, especially Adlers, of which he eventually owned five, including

a very desirable two door rag-top cabriolet he restored totally. He was a bit of a perfectionist, having recently

redone the engine after importing a new cylinder- head. In the late 80’s he became interested in all things

Italian, but especially MotoGuzzis, of which he had six ,ranging from an Astore down through a 350cc racer to

an intriguing model that looked like a cross between a Vespa and a normal motorcycle with quite large spoked

wheels. This he used for shopping. Then he became intrigued with motorcycle rallying. We did this together

dozens of times in this country and in Italy – the Moto Giro d’Italia four times, which is another story. They say

you really only know a friend after 20 years acquaintance or in my version after you’ve hunted together and/or

motorcycled – and not just around the block. For instance, during the 1997 Giro another competitor (an Italian

medical doctor, nogal) smashed into me from behind and I landed up in an Italian hospital with not one

English-speaking staff member. With my one leg in plaster Arcas figuratively carried me on the rest of our

planned trip to the Isle of Man races – he was a determined character - then for the flight back home

organised, via the air hostesses ,four adjoining seats (armrests down ) so that I could stretch out when

necessary – he was an accomplished organiser. Which reminds me, he was a major sponsor of rallies for years;

he had a very soft spot for the Magnum , simultaneously riding and sponsoring! This facet of his involvement

was never used for personal gain or self-indulgence.

Arcas built up his clutch and brake business to the extent that his Mitchell Street sales operation was fed not

by imported products but by his purpose- built factory in Ekindustria. Eventually through stringent quality

control he landed huge contracts supplying clutch assemblies to the major tractor manufacturers in the U.S.A.

and Italy. I used to chaff him he could afford to close down the Mitchell Street sales outlet and convert it into a

clutch and brake repair facility for V.M.C. members only.

Arcas was also a political animal! He was for many years a member of the executive committees of two

successive political parties in this country, but he never raised political issues at club events.

Well, as they say, -all good things must come to an end. So, good- bye my friend, for the time being. I’m sure

someday we’ll all be riding our favourite motorcycles together.

Fritz Kraehmer

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HOBBY X SHOW 2021

The annual Hobby X show takes place at the Northgate Dome from the 4th to 7th March 2021. We

have been invited at a nominal cost to display bikes and man a membership enrollment table.

This could also highlight the various Rallies for classic/ vintage vehicles on offer that we enjoy!

With so many projects having made great progress during the Covid period it seems ideal particularly

since almost everyone is in DJ preparation mode then.

With an organized approach in this fresh interest group it could be ideal to boost membership and

interest in the Northern suburbs and highlight your valuable machines!

To man the stand a minimum of 16 members would be needed for 4 1/2 sessions each working in

pairs. So at least 16 bikes are needed and volunteer owners to assist. We would like to start a list now

committing to the show, to ensure a perfect range and representation of Marques.

Info boards A2 sized on each bikes technical details, marque history and individual bike history would

give a proper introduction to the public and each bike owner would have this as a keepsake

afterwards.

We will be able to start some of the bikes occasionally to attract interest. An appropriately sized

piece of wood wrapped in black cloth could solve the inevitable oil issues for most makes, with Velos

perhaps needing more absorbent arrangements. Complimentary tickets to attend will be available for

displayed bike owners only.

Wednesday 4th is setup, Thursday/Friday 9 - 6, Saturday 8 - 6 and Sunday 8 - 5 with breakdown ie

collection from 5.30 pm

If this is offered again the following year we envision all different bikes on show so members need to

start planning and preparing. Please realize how much work and effort would be required if you pull

out of the commitment to this and it is not a paid task organizing this for the club.

Any ideas or sponsorship should be entertained early such as giveaways for signing up new

memberships, stands made for bikes, new banners etc.

Thank you

The Committee

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INTRODUCTION TO REGULARITY TIME TRIAL RALLIES – The next step –

Practical. Gavin Walton.

Following the relative success we have had from the “Basic introduction to time trial rallies” that we

drafted to present to the first-time riders at last year’s DJ I have been giving some thought as to how

we can progress this further.

The best way, I believe, is to get out there and follow a route schedule in a non-competitive event.

The primary objective is to try and attract new blood into our sport without the pressure of a formal

event, this is generally the case for all first-time entrants.

To achieve this objective, we will all need to identify those probable’s and bring them along.

The second objective is to provide an opportunity to those who enjoy rallying and would like to come

along to ‘keep their eye in’ and enjoy the fellowship of a ride with similarly minded riders.

This is not intended to be aligned to any Club or be exclusive to any members of any clubs.

As this is not a competition no permissions or permits will be required.

So how are we going to achieve this?

- Prior to the date upon which the training ride will take place a route will be determined and developed in accordance with all the formal rules and regulations to make the ride as realistic as possible.

- Routes will be chosen with good K markers and distances will be set to make it easy to get some rhythm at the set speed.

- Speeds will be set in increments of 5 kph, (40, 45, 50, 55, 60, 65, 70 & 75) so a reduced speed chart can be used giving more time to see where you are going and not spend too much time winding your speed chart up and down.

- There will only be 1 speed group. This is so all attendees can ride in line separated by 1 minute and keep the duration of the event streamlined. The speed selected will be either 60, 70 or 75 kph. This will depend on the pending future formal event, for example the DJ, where 60 will be selected.

- The starting venue will be determined so those attending can ride their bikes to the said venue, or trailer them, in order to start at the set time.

- The route schedule, and any other relevant info, will be emailed to all those attending the ride at least 2 days prior so it can be printed and installed in rally boxes or whatever device the attendee chooses.

- a short question and answer training session will take place prior to departure. - All attendees will be given a virtual starting time and no number boards will be required. - Atomic time will be used. The App can be down loaded onto your mobile phone. - The distance will vary from 80 to 120 k’s with a short pause along the route. - The organisers will be allowed to participate and will lead and trail the field. - Loggers will be required to be carried. For the first timers we will hopefully be able to help

amongst ourselves as many of us have more than 1 logger.

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- Upon arrival at the end, which will be the same venue as the starting point, hand in your logger and your results will be emailed to you if no printing facilities are available. Paperless is another objective.

- There will be a token R50 entry fee. This will be to cover the route setting costs. - After all the loggers have been down loaded there will be a short discussion to discuss the

route and answer any questions. Eligibility:

- Anyone can attend but needs to have a valid driver’s license. - Make and model of the bike is irrelevant however it must be road worthy. - Safety equipment like helmets are to be worn as per the normal requirements. - Pillion riders are welcome. - Speedos and ODOs do not have to be sealed however in the effort to be exposed to and get

experience in rallying it makes sense to have them covered. - Insurance is the attendee’s own responsibility and the organisers will not be held responsible

for any incident whatsoever.

Timing:

As this idea is still very much in the developmental stage I hope to have the first event setup and

ready to take place by late August or early September.

The frequency of these events will be determined by the success of the first event and future events

can be requested at any time.

Ideally a minimum of 10 attendees would be great. No maximum will be set.

With the above objectives in mind I am open to suggestions to make this as pleasant, seamless,

enjoyable and as informative as possible. Remember that in order to sustain and grow our rallying

fraternity it is up to all of us to get new blood involved.

Watch this space for more developments.

Any ideas, suggestions or comments can be sent to britishbikespares@gmail.com

Or call me on 0834084296.

Gavin Walton.

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VICTORIA YARDS RUN

Mark Broady

Earlier in August Steven Helm proposed a short run and gathering for the club. Currently with the

regular events calendar being very uncertain, these once off and ad hoc runs are a great way for us to

keep getting out there and meeting on a smaller scale. We encourage all members to look out for

future runs and join in. We’ll do our best to advertise via email, and also on the VMC page on

Facebook. The next run as advertised is being organized by Brandon Jarvis and will take place on Sat

29th August with a run to the Alberton area.

But back to the gathering in question; the

plan was to make your own way to the

initial meeting point, Pastelaria Princesa in

Queen St, South Kensington, and then after

a cup of coffee, move on as a group to the

nearby Victoria Yards. I arrived slightly late,

and coming up Queen street I was left in no

doubt as to where exactly Pastelaria was.

One side of the street was lined with

Vespa’s and the other with a great

collection of vintage and classic

motorcycles. Groups of people were

scattered around catching up over a cup of coffee enjoying the morning sun of the end-of-winter

Joburg day. After a while we decided to make a move, a short few km towards the city and the

Victoria Yards venue.

Arrangements had been made to allow all motorcyclists to enter the venue and park in an open quad

area. This made for a great spectacle for others visiting. Victoria Yards is basically an urban complex

(ex-industrial small warehousing) which has been revitalized and put to good use to encourage social

development and commercial enterprise. It’s a market vibe with a strong leaning towards arts. There

are a number of studios with artists busy creating

as well as works of art on display and available to

purchase. There are also food stalls and what

they call urban farming. All around the layout are

vegetable gardens and boxes with seasonal fruits

and vegetables. The main quad has beer festival

style tables. With the bikes on display, gatherings

and conversations started up again over fresh

cups of coffee. We made our way around the

various artist studios and then returned home in

our own time.

All in all great to get out to a different venue, give the bikes a little run and meet up with fellow club

members.

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UPCOMING EVENTS Steve Helm

So last month I wrote an article hoping to get some feedback or response from members on club

involvement. This was a miserable failure since not one person even commented on Club activity

never mind the challenge to commit to anything!

Is once a month get together enough? Your committee meets twice monthly and has organized runs

to alleviate the Covid cabin fever and help you to run your bikes. Very short runs to alleviate

mechanical stress.

These events cost time and money to the organizers and apathy is a very poor repayment.

Next up is a visit to Ascot Mews where Brandon has been constructing a venue specific to vintage

motorcycling and has arranged a sponsored event with snacks and drinks. Also he has initiated a VMC

project bike which it’s hoped we can restore as a club to add to the Precision thanks to Ricky Maizey’s

donation. Club decisions on our project bike should take place on the day, please support!

On the 29th August from 11am in Alberton we are having this club social, please make an effort!

If you would like to travel by motorcycle and need to be led in, we can meet at Princesa again before

10 am on Queen street in Kensington and I can take you in on a route that is not highway. You can

also trailer in to the venue as the point is a gathering of old motorcycles and club members! Or at

least just members.

On the 13th September your committee has arranged a run out in the Cradle area since it has been

noted the early runs during the restricted period were too short. Again we try for open area venues

for ease of mind and trailering in will be popular but the area allows for safe riding and the scenery is

very enjoyable please support!

On the 24th public holiday Thursday there is the Great Train race but since the train is not permitted

to run it will be an open air gathering by invite only, we hope to enjoy old cars, bikes and planes in

Heidelberg, details to follow! If for no other reason just that the full event will have the confidence to

run in 2021.

0n the 27th is the DGR which is touted as a solo event this year, it is specifically classed as a classic

and vintage event now and the Club would like to put in a presence as a strong Club even if it’s more

of a rehearsal for 2021 but there will be a venues arranged for riders and we plan to join so prepare

your outfits and bikes as details of this will follow!

Spring is here! get those bikes running gents! Options for some bike fun has been planned for you!!!

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FROM THE READERS

Spark Plug Issues

I read with interest Kevin Robertson’s article on spark plugs in the June edition of Kickstart. A few

days later it dawned on me that my problem with the old Triumph may well be spark plug related

rather than magneto. I did a switch of plugs and sure enough the misfire problem then occurred on

the other cylinder.

I checked the plugs and they were both NGK. So following from Kevin’s advice I began phoning

around for Bosch plugs and specifically the Bosch W5AC which has only a 12 mm reach. I was referred

from one dealer to another as no one appeared to stock Bosch plugs. I finally phoned Diesel Electric

in Wynberg. Yes they did have such a spark plug but only one left. So I bought the what appears to

me to be the last W5AC.

The bike now fires perfectly with one NGK and one Bosch plug. I bought a spare NGK B7HS and am

waiting for the one in use to start giving problems!

Thank you Kevin for the good advice. Does anyone know where I could get another Bosch W5AC ?

Eddie Germiquet (084 364 9348)

Lockdown Restoration - Eddie Germiquet

We were recently asked to share any restoration projects undertaken during lockdown. The exhaust

pipes on my 1948 Speed Twin gave clear indication that they were still the original pipes of 70 years

ago. Dents galore and paper thin on the upper curve near the exhaust manifold. The silencers had

long since disintegrated and had been replaced by makeshift arrangements. The aim of making

effective use of the lockdown was to acquire a new set of pipes and silencers. Gavin Walton kindly

followed up and came back to me indicating that they would have to be imported from the UK and it

would be upwards of R10,000 before he had made anything.

I then contacted Etienne Van Der Linde of

Van Der Linde Systems in Kya Sands. I had

the stainless-steel pipes fashioned from the

originals elsewhere. I took the result to

Etienne who made some adjustments to

the pipes before proceeding to make the

silencers to original specifications. What

impressed me greatly with Etienne is that

he listened carefully to what I wanted. He

studied the photos that I sent him of how

long the silencers needed to be; the size

and length of the “sausage” section and

where they needed to be attached to the

frame etc.I am more than satisfied with the

work he has done and would recommend him to others.

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SPOKED MOTORCYCLE WHEEL BUILDING The Wheel:

Before doing any wheelwork, note the position of the rim in relation to the hub. Look at your bike

with the wheels still on the bike. Check maker's specifications if you have them. Note which way

around the wheels and hubs are in relation to the bike. Mark the rims and hubs so you will know

which is the left side and which is the right side. Some wheels are symnetrical, but it is still good to fit

them back on the way they came off. There maybe some other unforeseen reason why at a later date

you wish you knew which way the wheels originally were. Take notes, draw pictures, take photos. It

may be weeks, months or years before you get it all back together. Measure the offset of the rim to

various bits on your bike. Swing arm, forks, shocks etc.

Make notes. You can use this information to double check everything after final assembly. Take the

wheels off the bike and measure rim offset in relation to the hub. Use a straight edge across the rim

to measure to the datum on the hub or a straight edge across the hub to measure to the rim. Draw

pictures of spoke patterns. Use a datum point like the face on the hub that the disc or sprocket sits

against. If the hub is a brake drum hub, then use the edge of the brake drum opening. Take notes on

how the wheel appears before you pull it apart. Note what you used for a datum surface. Match

mark the parts as you disassemble them. Small centre punch marks are unnoticeable to anyone else

but you. Make notes or drawings of where you match marked the parts. Draw colour schemes or pin

striping details. This sort of preparation and detail will save you a lot of headaches later on.

The Hub:

Wire spoked wheels have a metal hub with wire spokes passing through holes either directly in the

hub or flanges on the hub then running outwards radially or tangentially to the rim where they pass

through holes drilled into the rim. Some hubs may not have flanges. Like the later Matchless or BMW.

These hubs are drilled to allow straight pull spokes to go straight through the extreme ends of the

hub. Flanges can be out at something like 45 degrees to the axle like on some Harley Davidson's and

trail bikes or the flanges can be at right angles to the axle as on most bicycles and motorcycles.

However no matter what the attaching point on the hub, the spokes must be made with a head angle

and head length to suit that particular hub/flange design.

Rims:

Rims are usually a flat steel or aluminium strip rolled into shape with the ends butt welded together.

Basically this flat strip has flanges rolled up on each side to keep the tyre on and a valley around the

centre to give strength and rigidity to the rim and help ease the tyre onto and off the rim at tyre

change time. The depth of this valley makes a huge difference to the ease of tyre changing. The

deeper the valley, the easier it is to change a tyre. The cross sectional shape, made up of the rim

flanges, the rim and the valley all work together to give the rim strength. Inside the rim should be

clean and free from rust and corrosion. This should be checked and cleaned every tyre change.

There should be a rubber rim band fitted in the valley covering the nipples to give protection to the

tube. The quality of the rim is in the material used and the roundness, trueness and welding. Some

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poorer quality rims have a very obvious weld and a definite flat spot right on the weld where they

haven't been properly re-rolled. A pain when it comes to truing up the wheel. Rims can be bought in

various materials such as unpainted steel, chromed steel, aluminium alloy and stainless steel.

Flat spots, buckles and twists may be able to be pulled out of bicycle rims by pulling with spoke

tension however motorcycle rims are very much stronger and it's been my experience that trying to

do this on a motorcycle rim is generally a waste of time. It may be possible to move the rim a small

amount, but the payoff is over tensioning of some of the spokes, which results in uneven load sharing

by other spokes causing spokes to continually come loose or break. Take the wheel apart and get the

rim re-rolled or simply replace the rim.

The rim valleys have dimples pressed into them for every spoke. On most wheels the dimples are

offset off the centre line of the rim, half to one side, the other half to the other side. The dimples are

equally spaced apart around the rim. The dimples are to recess the nipple and give a hemispherical

surface so spoke holes can be drilled at the correct spoke angle to suit the hub. If these holes are not

drilled at the correct angle, you will notice the spokes will be bowed when the wheel is assembled

and tightened. These spokes will break in service. Make sure the hole angles are correct! Some rims

have the spokes going to the hub flanges from holes drilled on the same side of the rim, some rims

have the spokes going to the hub flanges from holes drilled on opposite sides of the rim. That is, from

left side of rim to left hub flange, right side of rim to right hub flange. While others go from left side

of rim to right hub flange, right side of rim to left hub flange. An example of the latter is the disc

brake wheel on the front of a Norton Commando. All should be revealed on proper examination of

the bits. If in doubt, look for maker's specs or look at other similar makes of bike.

Rim orientation:

If you are building a wheel from scratch, you will have to lay the rim down on a bench and have a

good look at it. The holes around the rim are drilled slightly offset to the centreline of the rim and

should be drilled on such an angle so when fitted, the spoke will look directly at it's correct hole

location in the hub flange.

Check that you have the rim the right way around to suit your hub. For asymmetrical hubs like

Triumph conical hubs or hubs such as the front disc brake wheel on a Norton Commando that have a

dramatic offset, you can get a good idea of which side of the rim will go to which side of the hub, by

putting a couple of nipples through a couple of spoke holes, screwing spokes into them and holding

the nipples firmly in the rim holes with finger pressure. The spokes will stick out at whatever angle

the holes were drilled. You should be able to get an idea of hub flange position if the holes in the rim

have been drilled at the correct angle, this should be indicated by the direction of the spoke and it

should become obvious which way the rim should face for the spokes to connect up with the hub

flanges when all is in the correct place.

You now need to look at the spoke holes adjacent to the valve hole. Basically, with the rim lying flat

on a bench, valve hole to the top, every second hole should look up and every other hole should look

down. Look at the two holes immediately each side of the valve hole and note which hole looks up

and which hole looks down. Rims can be drilled either way, with the hole to the left or right of the

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valve hole being the hole that looks up. At the moment you are only interested in the hole that looks

up. This will be your starting point for lacing the wheel. Remember this hole. You will need it later.

Spokes:

Spokes have a head on one end to stop them from being pulled through the hole in the hub flange

and an adjustable threaded nipple on the other end that goes through the hole in the rim. Spokes can

be straight pull-spokes such as on some BMW's and Matchless or the spokes will have a bend at the

head so the spoke can go at an angle through the hub flange. The spokes need to have a head length

to suit the hub flange thickness. They also could have a different head length depending if they are

inside the flange or if they are outside the flange. The outside flange spokes have a longer distance to

reach around to bring them into line with their corresponding rim hole.

This means that for a symmetrical hub/rim assembly that has same diameter left and right hub

flanges, there will be two different groups of spokes. One lot of spokes dimensioned for inside the

flange, and one lot of spokes dimensioned for outside the flange. The inside spokes may be shorter

overall and have a shorter head length and an obtuse head angle, while the outside spokes may be

longer overall and have a longer head length and a more acute head angle. If there is an offset

between hub and rim, or the hub has unequal flange diameters, there will be a difference again

between left and right inner and outer spokes. So there is a possibility that there could be four

different spoke types for a particular wheel. Sometimes three different types, but mostly at least two

different types. Be aware of this and make sure you have all the right spokes for the right wheel.

Make sure you are familiar with which spokes go where at the time of lacing the wheel.

Don't take it for granted that the spokes you have are the correct spokes.

Check your spokes against maker's specs if you can. Check your new spokes against the old ones if

you are rebuilding a wheel with new spokes. Lay all the spokes out and put them into like groups. In a

40 hole rim there will always be look-alike groups of ten or multiples of ten. Compare, compare,

compare. For example the Commando front disc wheel has ten outer left spokes, ten inner left

spokes and twenty right hand spokes. Each group should be similar. You won't have 9 in one group

and 11 in another, look again.

Spokes are usually cad plated steel. Stainless steel is a popular shiny material favoured by many for

looks. Some people like to chrome spokes. Chroming can make the spoke material brittle. This is not

such a good idea as spokes will 'work' in use and anything that works can suffer fatigue resulting in

spoke breakage. Brittle spokes will not be as resistant to fatigue as standard spokes. The spoke nipple

usually has a square on the shank to enable adjustment with a spoke wrench and a slot in the head

for a screwdriver for faster running up or down. Sometimes the nipples have a dished washer under

them. The threads on spokes are not normally cut with a die, but rolled into the spoke.

This is a more reliable method of thread creation on an item that is liable to suffer from fatigue.

Rolling the threads into the material doesn't cut across the grain structures, but rolls the threads into

the grain structure and is a stronger method of thread manufacture, it has less chance of developing

a fatigue concentration point along the thread. The minor diameter of the thread on the spoke shank

17

is the thinnest part of the spoke and the weakest link in the chain. Spokes will break at this point.

Spokes will also break on the bend at the spoke head where the spoke goes through the hub flange.

Some hub flanges have countersunk holes. This is not for the spoke head to sit in, like a counter sunk

screw, but for the bend at the spoke head to sit in. If the bend sits against a square unchamfered

edge of a drilled hole, the sharp square edge will work against the spoke and create a nick or fatigue

point, which is usually where the spoke will break.

However, many wheels have only countersunk holes on the outside of the flanges. This is probably

because the outside spokes have the sharpest bends in them, the spoke bend sitting hard in against

the relief given by the hub flange hole countersinkings. The inner spokes, because of their direction

inward toward the rim, start to leave the side of the hub flange hole as soon as the spoke exits the

hole. Spokes can be the same thickness along their full length or they can be waisted toward the

head end. Spokes are described in the following way as is in the factory Norton Commando manual.

Rear outer: 6.093 in long: 8/10 SWG: 90 degree head: offset length .531 in.

This gives the length of the spoke, the gauge at the narrow end and the gauge at the waisted end,

spoke head angle and spoke head length.

Tensioning a spoke is usually done by feel or by ear. Typically a wheel is tuned like a piano, meaning

the spokes are struck gently with another metal object like the spoke wrench, listening for the pitch

or note given by the spoke. The spoke should have a nice "ding" sound, not a dull "thud" or sharp

"ping". A spoke that touches another spoke will not ring clearly, by bearing a litte weight on the other

spoke you can get it out of the way in order to listen to the "ping". There are torque figures and

spoke torque wrenches, but these are not often used. It is easy to get false readings on the torque

wrench unless all the spoke nipples are in excellent order. The slightest sticking of a nipple could give

a false reading. The best, quickest and most accurate method is the tuning method. Just to give an

idea, the torque figure listed in a Honda Gold Wing manual for spoke adjustment is 17-38 in/lbs (2 -

4.5 Nm) The spoke and nipple threads should be coated in an anti seize compound to help with

tensioning and later adjustment or disassembly. The threaded end of the spoke gets all the weather,

goes through all the puddles and needs lots of looking after. Be careful tensioning spokes on a brake

drum. Over tensioning can pull the drum out of round. Check the drum for trueness after you have

finished building the wheel.

Only cut out the old spokes if the nipples are frozen solid. Pulling the spokes out will give the first

timer a chance to get familiar with the spoke pattern. Also gives some time to look over everything

and put some thought into the job. If the spokes are in reasonable condition, they can be used again.

If replacing the spokes with new ones, the old ones can always be kept as spares. If you know they

are the right spokes as per maker's specs, then they should be kept as samples. The new ones you get

may not be right! Don't destroy things unless you have too. Mixing spokes of different gauge can give

problems in tensioning and load sharing. Thicker spokes will share the load easier than thinner ones.

Loose or broken spokes may result in this practice.

There are several different methods or patterns of spoking that can be used on spoked wheels. Eg.,

Radial, Crows Foot and Cross or Tangential spoking. Most motorcycle wheels use the Cross or

Tangential pattern of spoking, where pairs of spokes form a series of crosses around each side of the

18

wheel. In this pattern the spokes come on a tangent from the hub to the rim. This pattern is stronger

and much more rigid than the other two patterns and is able to transmit torque which is the forces of

power delivery and braking from the hub to the rim/tyre/road much more effectively without danger

of the hub twisting out of the spokes/rim. It is also better able to transmit the impact forces of the

wheel striking bumps in the road, back to the suspension. The loads are carried through a larger

number of spokes than the other patterns.

Wheels with the Cross or Tangential spoke pattern will always have an even number of spokes. For

example, most British wheels use 40 spokes. They use the Tangential pattern of spoking.

Japanese maker's also use the Tangential pattern, but mostly choose to use 36 spokes. Once again,

an even number. Crows Foot pattern uses a combination of Tangential spoking and Radial spoking.

The cross pattern is used, but there is one radial spoke going straight from hub to rim, right through

the middle of the cross. This pattern uses groups of three spokes and so will have an odd number of

holes around rim and hub. If you find a rim at a swap meet with an odd number of holes, this is most

likely why. So check the number of holes in your rim.

Dimples are pressed around the valley of the rim equal distances apart, but every second hole will be

off centre to one side, the other holes will be off centre to the other side of the rim. To drill the holes

in the dimples for the spokes the correct angle must be used. It is very important that this angle is

calculated and drilled correctly because it will determine if the nipple will sit true and straight and be

absolutely in line with it's corresponding hole in the hub flange when all is together and tightened up.

These holes will not necessarily have the same angles for left and right side of the wheel as the hub

may not be central inside the rim, or the hub may have different diameter flanges as is the case with

Triumph conical hubs and most early hubs that did not have a full width brake drum. So it's very

important to have a rim with the spoke holes drilled at the correct angle and it is very important to

know which way around the rim goes in relation to the hub so the right spoke angles match up with

the corresponding hub flange diameter.

Lacing up a Wheel

Step One: Place the hub on a bench top in front of you or hold the hub in one hand flanges

horizontal. Remembering that you could have four different sets of spokes, decide which spokes are

for INSIDE the top flange as the hub appears in front of you. Holding the correct spokes in the other

hand, start sticking a spoke down every other hole around the top flange. These spokes will be inside

spokes.

IMPORTANT BIT: Now is when you check which holes lead and which holes follow. Still with the hub

in front of you the same as when you started. Do not turn it over. Look straight down over the hub.

Look straight vertically past a spoke hole on the top flange that you have just put a spoke into.

Looking down onto the bottom flange, you will notice the holes in the bottom flange are not directly

under the holes in the top flange. They are midway between them. Now remember back to when you

looked at the holes in the rim each side of the valve. If your rim had the looking up spoke hole to the

left of the valve hole in the rim, go to the next hole in the bottom hub flange immediately counter

clockwise back from a hole in the top flange that you have just put a spoke into and with the correct

19

spokes for OUTSIDE the bottom flange, start here and stick a spoke through every other hole around

the bottom flange. OR if your rim had the looking up spoke hole to the right of the valve hole in the

rim, go to the next hole in the bottom hub flange immediately clockwise back from a hole in the top

flange that you have just put a spoke into and with the correct spokes for OUTSIDE the bottom

flange, start here and stick a spoke through every other hole around the bottom flange. This bit can

be quite tricky if you have hub flanges of very different diameters. You may have to go over it a

couple of times to make sure you have the spokes in the correct holes.

Now you should still have the hub in front of you with flanges still horizontal and twenty or so spokes

hanging straight down.

Step two: Still with the hub in front of you the same as when you started, sweep all the spokes back

around both flanges so they are in two bundles (top and bottom) Hold them so they don't fall out and

turn the hub over. Repeat step one with the rest of the spokes, making sure you have the correct

spokes in the correct flanges. Go around the top flange first, sticking the INSIDE spokes down through

the flange from the outside, then around the bottom flange, sticking the OUTSIDE spokes down

through the bottom flange from the inside, ending up in the correct direction (inner or outer) phew!

Now you should have a hub with 40 or so spokes in it. Looking down onto the hub you should have

every other hole alternating between a spoke head and a spoke shaft on each side of both hub

flanges.

Step Three With the hub laying on a bench top and all spokes extended outwards radially, sweep all

the spokes around so they are bundled together in one spot. Place the wheel rim over the hub,

roughly in it's position valve hole to the top or furthest away from you. If your re-using your old rim,

lay the rim over the hub keeping the same direction of rotation as it was before you pulled the wheel

apart. Look up your notes, drawings and photos if you have to. If it's a new wheel build, make sure

the rim is around the right way for the spoke angles in the rim holes matching up to whatever hub

you have. Offset or unequal hub flange diameters. (You can establish this by checking spoke angles as

per the rim orientation paragraph above.) Take any head up spoke from the top flange (spoke head

up means the spoke head is facing upwards, with the spoke inside the flange) and put it in the first

looking up hole adjacent to the valve hole. Remember, you established this earlier on, so you should

be right now!! Use anti seize on the threads. Thread a nipple only four turns on each spoke as you

lace it into the rim.

Step Four: Count off five spoke holes to the right, including the hole you spoked in step three. This

must also be a looking up hole. Into this put the next head up spoke to the right of the one you

spoked in step three. Continue this sequence until you have laced up all the head-up (inside) spokes

in the top hub flange. The wheel will now have ten spokes in holes with three spoke holes between

each spoke. The centre of the three empty holes will be a looking up hole, the other two, looking

down holes.

Step Five: This is a critical step, so take it slowly and repeat it if you don't get it at first. Take the

partially spoked rim and hub, and, keeping the same side up, rotate the rim so the spokes are at an

acute angle. Because of the spoke angles drilled in the rim, it will be immediately obvious if you go in

20

the wrong direction. Depending on how the rim has been drilled (angle of the holes in the rim) rotate

the rim left or right. Hold the hub as you rotate the rim.

Step Six: Another critical step. Take any head down (outside) spoke from the top hub flange (The

wheel should not have been turned over!!!) and going in the opposite direction from the spokes

laced so far, cross over the top of the other spokes and stick it in the remaining looking up hole.

Thread a nipple on it four turns. This spoke should have gone into the middle remaining hole.

Continue lacing all the head down (outside) spokes in the top flange. When you are finished there will

be twenty spokes in groups of twos.

Step Seven: This is a most critical step. Turn the wheel over. Now, all the unlaced spokes will be in

the top flange. Straighten spokes out and sweep them all out of the way. Things should look like they

will now fall into place as these remaining spokes will only go into their rightful holes. Start with the

head up (inside spokes) spokes on the now top hub flange. They will only go into one set of holes.

Stick them in their holes and thread their nipples on four turns. Next do all the head down spokes

crossing them over the outside of the spokes you have already laced and thread their nipples on four

turns. While motorcycle spokes cross other spokes one, two or three times, they shouldn't weave in

and out of one another like on bicycles. Bicycles spokes are much longer and thinner.

How to True a wheel:

Step One: Put your wheel into your jig. Your jig can be a pretty flash purpose made professional

expensive things or can be a simple homemade stand. Something like an old swing arm clamped

vertically in a vice will do. You don't need to use the wheel's own axle if it doesn't fit the jig. Any

round bar that fits will do. The wheel rotates on the bearings, not the axle. It is handy to have some

spacers each side of the wheel to stop it moving side to side while tightening or loosening spokes.

Nuts and washers will do. You will need some form of pointer to check radial and axial runout. A

black felt tipped pen is a good idea as well. Use a dial gauge only to check your final alignment.

Get a comfy stool like a bar stool and sit it in front of the jig, have a cuppa handy and start work.

Step Two: Using a screwdriver and starting at the valve hole go around the wheel and screw all the

nipples down so the last spoke thread just disappears under the nipple and stop. Adjust radial runout

first. Side to side wobble comes last. Once the wheel is more or less within 6mm or so radial runout,

start on sideways runout. Get this down to about 6mm as well. Check radial again. Don't tighten the

spokes!

Step Three: Now we must look at rim off set. You'll find that if the spokes are original parts, or they

have been correctly made by aftermarket people, the rim should have come somewhere near it's

correct position. Go back to your notes or manufacturers specifications and see what the rim offset

should be. Using the same method of measuring as you did before you stripped the wheel measure

the offset of the rim as it is now and make a decision on which way it should go to be correct. Now

tighten up whichever side spokes need tightening to move the rim in the desired direction. Don't do

any spokes up too tight. Move your rim into position with the spokes not very much more than finger

tight. Once the rim is in it's correct position, get out the felt pen and true the rim again. Holding the

21

pen firmly against your jig, rotate the wheel and move the pen tip toward the rim. As the rim rotates

the runout will contact the tip leaving a long black mark around the rim. This gives a clear indication

of which way and where the rim needs to be adjusted. Adjust the spokes, wipe off the black mark and

do it again. Check offset, check radial runout, then check axil runout

Do this enough times until you are happy with your work, then gradually go around tightening the

spokes. They don't need to be death tight. There are lots of them and they all need to share the work

equally. As you rotate the wheel strike the spokes lightly with you spanner. They should start to give

a nice crisp 'ding' not a dull 'thud' or an over tightened 'ping'. Get a soft-faced mallet and go around

the wheel and give every spoke a light wack. This will settle the spokes, one might have been

tightened up with a slight bow in it. A gentle knock with the hammer will spring it into line and it will

now probably have a dull thud to it when struck with your tuning spanner. By now the wheel should

be pretty close to being right. Keep checking offset, checking radial runout, and checking axil runout

Time for a cuppa or a beer. Come back later after the nerves have settled, run around it with the

tuning spanner, ding, ding, dong, ding and give it that final touch… Should be pretty right

after all that.

Finishing

If your keen enough, you can now check your work with a dial gauge. Most motorcycle manuals

specify a maximum runout figure of 2mm or .080 in. You should easily get a new rim well under 1mm

or .040 in. An old re-laced rim would still come somewhere near 1 mm or .040 in unless it had a bit of

a woof in it. Put the rim band on, fit your tyre and make sure the bead sits down properly and you

have correct air pressure. Put the fully assembled wheel back up in your jig and give it a slow spin and

see how it goes for balance. Static balancing a wheel is another easy job that makes a lot of

difference to the performance of the bike. You can buy proper wheel weights that either stick onto

the rim or clamp around the spoke. You can cut strips of lead and wrap them around the spokes or

cut strips of lead and stick them to the rim with silicon.

Spin the wheel slowly and wait for it to come to rest. Mark the top of the tyre with chalk. Spin the

wheel slowly again and see if it stops in the same place. Add some lead weight to the top of the

wheel by wrapping it around a spoke or by taping it to the rim. Spin the wheel again. Repeat this and

add or subtract weights until the wheel takes a long time to stop turning and will stop in any position.

Fix the lead weights properly to the rim. If you wrap strips of lead around the spokes, wrap

electricians tape or similar around the windings. Stick the strips to the rims with silicon and tape over

the weights until the silicon has set. Fit wheel to bike.

All there is to it really………

22

5th VIRTUAL CLUB MEETING - JULY 2020 Good evening & welcome to all members, visitors & friends attending the 5th Virtual COVID-19 VMC

Monday Club Night meeting. Once again, thank you all for attending.

This is now my 5th meeting I’m busy doing without a live audience in front of me & I think it’s now

time that we slowly started meeting again on a Monday evening. So please let me know what your

thoughts are.

Our 2 new editors were very busy these last few weeks putting together the July edition of Kickstart

which went out last Friday. So Big thanks to Steven & Stuart.

Please remember to send in articles of interest for Kickstart. These can be sent to this email.

“Motorcyclist of the Month” Award goes to Rikki Maizey for his generous donation of a Royal Enfield

motorcycle to the VMC Club as a project bike whereby club members will be involved in the

restoration of this bike. Thank you Rikki for making this project happen.

Time for some humour:

General: As promised, we managed to arrange a short ride in memory of Mike Milne Smyth from the VVC

clubhouse to the Loop coffee shop in Norwood which was well attended. See article in July issue of

Kickstart.

The “Lockdown Garage Challenge” group on WhatsApp has been a great success, so Gavin Walton is

now looking for some new ideas & suggestions to make it even better. Please let us have your ideas.

Gavin Walton’s successful rally navigation course is moving up to the next level with him putting

together a course for members to ride without the pressure of a competitive event. This will help to

hone your skills so watch this space!

23

Raffle/Auction time:

Our Vice chairman, Frank Barnes from Tycom Instruments, has kindly donated a brand new RISH

Multi Analog-Digital Multimeter Model 18S for the auction. This is the top model in the range &

comes complete with a soft rubber protective holster for rough duty as well as a tilt stand.

Make your bid by replying to this email before the closing time and date of 12 noon on Wednesday

24th June 2020. (Note that R100 will be added to your bid if you would like the book sent by courier)

Time now for a drinks break – Stocks are limited so only 1

Bike show & tell:

Tonight, we have Stuart Thompson with his

beautifully restored 1960 Velocette Venom

500cc. It was previously owned by Alan

Harris & is fitted with an Alton electric

starter and alternator.

Video:

The History of Motorcycle Racing | Full

Documentary |Part 3 of 5 has not been

released yet.

So I have Dale’s Wheels – Inside the Teen

Era Motorcycle Shop video for you

Use Ctrl Click on the youtube link below.

https://youtu.be/z4cOC2JoaYg

We are planning a club ride this Sunday 2nd August where we will meet at 09h00 at Pastelaria

Princesa 146 Queen str, South Kensington. Then depart around 09h30 for the Victoria Yards, corner

Viljoen st /Victoria rd, Lorentzville. Jhb. Contact Steven 082 427 6990. That’s all we have for this

evening. Stay safe & healthy & don’t forget to send in your Auction Bid for that great Digital

Multimeter by Wednesday.

24

DID YOU HEAR? MARKET LAVINGTON, ENGLAND. George Dobson will have to wait until he is 98 years

old before he can ride his motorcycle again. Dobson, 95, was handed a 3 year suspension

of his driver’s license after he collided with a car while trying to hang on to a bottle of liquor

slipping out of his pocket.

“I vowed I would do everything I could to stop the Isle of Man counting towards the World

Championship. And it was stopped, so they love me on the Island”. Barry Sheene

25

CLASSIFIEDS

For Sale and Wanted advertisements will be placed in Kickstart for ONE edition only. These may be

renewed on request each month. Services advertisements will be placed for a maximum of SIX

editions and must be renewed every January and July. Email your advertisements to

editor@vintagemotorcycleclub.co.za. The cut-off for any month is the close of business, third

Monday of the month.

FOR SALE: 1957 BSA C12 (250cc)

I have finally got this bike out of the shed, it was restored by John Le Favre around 30 years ago, I bought it

from him , it was a good starter and runner, I never used it , just stored it in my shed as you saw it, I de-

registered it in 1998. The engine is turning free and has good compression . just needs a good clean up.

As for price I will consider all reasonable offers

Peter Powell <peter.powell@telkomsa.net

WANTED:

Nsu Max or Super Max spare parts wanted. Call Craig 072 7175559

Lathe (Myford or other small lathe). Contact Yuvi 0719296795 or yuvijasti@gmail.com

SERVICES:

British Bike Spares, Restorations and other Services

Specialising in classic British bike spares supplying parts from Wassell, the biggest new classic bike

part wholesalers in the UK. Contact Gavin Walton

Home 011 818 4055, or Mobile 083 408 4296, Email britishbikespares@gmail.com

Full restorations. Wheel Lacing and Building.

Contact Pierre Cronje. On Mobile 072 513 9432.

Petrol taps Enots flat-slide type, made in brass to your order. Sizes 1/8”, 1/4” and 3/8” BSP

Rally boxes made to your order with handlebar mounting brackets plus mountings for the rally plate

and three watches. Trevor Fraser on 013 656 3063 or 076 591 5560.

Restoration and other services. Gravel Man Services offers full service of all BMW boxer twins (old

and new). Accident damage repairs and restorations. Contact Markus Watson on 083 602 3503.

Vapour Blasting Services.

We clean aluminium, brass, and copper parts using VAPOUR BLASTING method. It’s a gentle, water

based, non-destructive process for smooth satin finish. Suitable for aluminium cylinder heads, engine

blocks, gearbox casings, carburetors, etc. Call Janus Gruska from Classic Restorer on 081 065 8275

(Benoni) or email classic.restorer1@gmail.com

Magneto Rewinding. Also coils for stationery motors and BMW m/cycles on exchange basis.

Contact Rod Thomas for further info and courier details. 031-762-1509, 073-365-6494 or

email rodthomas@telkomsa.net

26

Cable Makers : One off repairs & production runs of all Motion Control & Mechanical cables.

Manufacturer and stockist of galvanized & stainless steel wire ropes, cable fittings & accessories

Martin Peach, 9 Hilma Road, Bordeaux, 0824927794, email : cablemaker@icon.co.za

Specialist Welding

Le Roux Welding - Edenvale. Contact Syd on 083-390-8761

Performance Welding – Benoni – Contact Rob on 083-256-2257.

Petrol Tank Lining and Repair

Colin Aitken 083-728-3822 email colin.p.m.aitken@gmail.com

Classic Bike Painting:

Custom Creations – Krugersdorp 011-664-7838

Kaleidoscope – Ralph Kruger 083-601-2891

Wayne Dientje – Edenvale 072-623-0070

Contact Gavin Walton

on

011-818-4055 or 083-408-4296

or email

britishbikespares@gmail.com

27

CLUB and CONTACT DETAILS THE VINTAGE MOTORCYCLE CLUB

P O Box 782835 SANDTON 2146

South Africa

www.vintagemotorcycleclub.co.za

Committee Members

Chairman Ralph Pitchford ralph@connix.co.za 082 872 9363

Vice Chairman Frank Barnes frank@tycom.co.za 082 465 8950

Editors Steven Helm

Stuart Thompson

karatesa@gmail.com

stuart@wct.engineering

082 427 6990

082 326 8553

Secretary Dave Pitchford david@sftsafety.co.za 082 413 7586

Club Dating Officer Kevin Walton kevinwalton2207@gmail.com 082 808 2337

Events Rob Pattison Emms avonrod@mweb.co.za 082 891 8399

Librarian John Hassall Jh29@mweb.co.za 082 886 7133

Committee Member Brandon Jarvis brandon@ascotmews.co.za 082 410 8828

Treasurer Mark Broady mark.broady@gmail.com 082 619 2432

CLUB ACCOUNT DETAILS

Account Number Nedbank 1970259841

Sandton Branch 197-005

Please use your name and surname as your reference when making a payment

CLUB MEETINGS

Meetings are held every 4th Monday of the month (except December) at The Vintage and Veteran

Club (VVC), 3 Athol Oaklands Road, Oaklands Johannesburg, at 19:30.

MEMBERSHIP SUBSCRIPTIONS

Membership subscriptions for the club year 2019/20 are due on 1st July 2019. Invoices and

statements will only be sent out on request. Subscriptions are as follows:

Full membership: R300

Country membership: R220

Family membership: R20 (includes a competition license - spouse and minor children.

Discounts : Over 70 years old- 50% and over 80 years old - 100%

The opinions expressed in KICKSTART are not necessarily those of the Committee or the Editor.