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JOTUNHEIMENNATIONAL PARKNORWAY
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For days we have studied the
European weather charts for
snow. Finally we fix the
date for our trekking trip
to Norway: the beginning of
April 2011. Our starting
point: Lom – the gateway to
the Jotunheimen. Refreshed
after our first night in the
B&B, we’re ready for our
“outdoors at home” adventure.
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FACE TO FACE WITH THE SNOW
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W
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Not all roads lead all the way to
Jotunheimen: the road is completely iced
over, our car doesn’t manage it to the
starting point of the trek. Everything
has to be re-packed and we finally reach
Leirdalen after an adventurous ride on
skidos.
RE-PACK
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Claudia
While the storm’s raging outside whose face
lights up in the tent? Claudia! All it
takes is a piece of chocolate! When she’s
not studying, she’s off out somewhere
pursuing her favourite activities:
climbing, trekking, surfing and cycling.
Michael
Pulka is the taboo word of the trip! He is
part of the pulka duo on this trip – but
however heavy the kit is, there’s always
space for a little bottle of pear schnaps!
He’s mad about all mountain and water
sports – but without the pulka!
Henning
He is the second part of the pulka duo and
a guitar-playing lover of the outdoors.
Unfortunately, the guitar in the Norwegian
hut had seen better days – so there was
time to make pancakes.
MEET THETEAM
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Off we head towards the Gjendebu Hut. No sign of the forecasted rain!
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Spoke too soon: the promised rain
eventually comes and makes up for lost
time. We arrive at the hut in Gjendebu
feeling as if we’ve just had a facial
courtesy of the battering rain, snow
and ice.
SNOW PEELING INGJENDEBU
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Like everywhere in Norway, the hut is
well equipped and provides us with
cosy shelter. Half the countries of
Europe are represented here among the
trekkers. After a delicious pancake
breakfast, we set off again next day.
W
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THE HUT WEAVES ITS
MAGIC
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Well fortified, the two lads get off
to a good start even with the heavy
laden pulka. One pulls it uphill, the
other puts the brake on it downhill.
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Typical Norway: the weather changes constantly. At last, the sun comes out
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and reveals the unspoilt mountainous landscape of the Jotunheimen National Park.
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That’s what Jotunheimen actually means.
We are in the middle of Scandinavia’s
highest mountain range. Altogether,
there are more than 250 peaks above
1900 m and 20 of them are even higher
than 2300 m. Beneath the snow cover
60 smaller glaciers are concealed.
HOME OFTHE GIANTS
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The lofty peaks of Mjølk
edalstinden (2137 m) and
Store
Raudalseggje (2168 m) li
e on our way.
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No, Michael’s just happy to have a
pear schnapps to warm himself up!
After a dramatic change in the weather
we put up our tent amid snow flurries.
Using ski poles and spades, we make it
more secure with snow – there’s a
terrible draught in the “Home of the
Giants” and we are happy to be sitting
inside out of the storm. Skål and
goodnight!
AGIANTIN THE
TENT
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Snow flurries and blueberries: on the
way to the glacier we struggle against
cold winds. A handful of blueberries
buried in the snow remind us of last
summer.
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We can’t wait to start the long downhill
ski and on our way to the best starting
point we have a moment of excitement
when Claudia accidentally discovers a
crevasse in the glacier.
GLIMP-SES OFGLA-CIERS
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Then at last it’s downhill all the way: we leave the
“Home of the Giants” and enjoy long sweeping runs in
the soft snow on our way to Leirdalen and Lom.
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... and the roads are still iced over!
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ROCK'N ICE MEN A trekking jacket
for every kind of weather! Its 5-in-1
function makes it ideal for a wide
range of temperatures and types of
trips. The TEXAPORE O2 shell jacket
guarantees superb breathability and
total weather protection.
SUPERSONIC XT JACKET MEN For high-octane
activity and sunny days: the medium warmth soft
shell hooded jacket is totally windproof due to its
STORMLOCK SOFTSHELL SMOOTHLIGHT shell fabric and
comes with a medium insulation fleece reverse side.
Perfect for an active sunny winter’s day.
EXPEDITION DOWN JACKET They
don’t come much warmer than this!
Filled with high performance down
and using windproof, extremely
water-repellent STORMLOCK HYPROOF
MINIRIP as the shell fabric, this
jacket is made for challenging
expeditions.
OUR COMPANIONS
ON THE TRIP
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MOUNTAIN LAKE WOMEN The lightest
3-in-1 trekking jacket by Jack Wolfskin
for women! Tailored from lightweight
yet robust TEXAPORE TASLITE, its high
breathability is increased by venting
zips.
ALL TERRAIN PACK A heavy load rucksack
for long trips. The carrier system distributes
the load and transfers it to the well-padded
waist belt. Ample padding and good ventilation
guarantee optimum wear comfort. Practical
details: raincover, fully prepped for a
drinks system and attachments options for
equipment.
CRYSTAL PALACEThis sleeping bag shows its true colours when it
gets really cold on a winter trip: a high performance 700 cuin fill
power down is used to fill this super-warm down sleeping bag,
keeping you warm even at -16°C! The differential-cut chamber heights
are matched to the thick filling so that the down can loft fully.
SANCTUARY III RT A stormproof lightweight:
the outer fabric weighs only 57 g per m2 and
a metre of tent pole about the same – that
adds up to a total weight of just 3750 g! The
ingenious frame design provides storm
stability, a large internal space and is easy
to pitch single-handedly. It can accommodate
three persons comfortably with room in the
extra large apsis for gear.
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Details of our trip
Jotunheimen National Park
The “Home of the Giants” lies in south Norway at the highest altitude of all the national parks in the
country. It contains not only the two highest peaks in Northern Europe (Galdøpping 2469 m and Glittertind
2452 m), but also most of Norway’s ‘2000 m’ peaks. The landscape is high Alpine with craggy peaks and
many glaciers. It is easy to combine different routes because of the well-developed network of paths
and many huts. The area around Olavsbu is one of the most beautiful yet loneliest places – we camped
not far from there. http://www.visitjotunheimen.com/de/
Accommodation
Lom
The gateway to Jotunheimen: the typical mountain village with 700 inhabitants is the ideal starting
point for exploring the Jotunheimen region. From here you have many trip options and many can be
accessed using the bus network.
Our great accommodation for the night including delicious food:
Hotel Andvord Gard AS
http://www.andvordgard.no/
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Hut accommodation
The DNT (the Norwegian Tourist Association) is the Norwegian trekking association and operates many
huts offering board in Jotunheimen, for example Gjendesheim, Gjendebu, Glitterheim, Fondsbu,
Skogadalsbøen and Fannaråkhytta. In addition, there are several self-catering huts such as in Olavsbu,
Yksendalsbu and Tomashelleren. http://www.turistforeningen.no/
Trips
The well-developed network of huts allows many variations of multi-day trips of various lengths. We
started in Leiredalen and followed the Leirvassbu – Gjenddebu (24 km) – Olavsbu (15 km) – Leirvassbu
(15 km) route, making various detours to peaks and glaciers in the region.
http://www.scandinavianmountains.com/
http://www.brefjell.no/
Maps
Statens Kartverk, 1:50 000 Jotunheimen East and West
Individual 1:25 000 Explorer maps can be purchased at the DNT.
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photos: Gaudenz Danuser