ITALIAN CHRISTMAS TRADITIONS

Cultural Tourism Development

CHRISTMAS IN ITALY

Christmas holiday is considered, just about worldwide, the most important holyday of the year. Its celebrated on December 25th and, according to the Christian people, this day Christ's birth date is worshiped.

Actually Christmas has pagan origins. In the old roman times it was the day in which the god Mitra was worshiped. Mitra represented the sun and was therefore connected to its crossing path in the sky. At a later time around the IV - V century A.D., after Christianity spread, the cult for Jesus took over Mitra which for the Christians also represents light.

In our days when speaking of Christmas we refer to it as a period of time which goes from December 24th to January 6th and therefore includes Christmas Eve (December 24th), Christmas (December 25th), Saint Stephen (December 26th), New Year (night of December 31st - January 1st) and Epiphany (January 6th), this represented by a likeable old lady, who, in the night between January 5th and 6th , enters the houses riding a broom, bringing presents and filling socks with candies for the kids who behaved well and coal for the ones who behaved like rascals.

THE “PRESEPE”

During the period preceding the real holydays is a tradition to set up the "Presepe" (Crib) and the Christmas tree. The "Presepe" (Crib) is the exact reproduction, by means of small statues, of scenes regarding Jesus birth, while the tree is a fir, real or fake, decorated with colored balls and multicolored lights. Always as a tradition the "Presepe" (Crib) and the tree are set up on December 8th , the day of the Immacolata (the day the Virgin Mary is celebrated) and put away in the evening of next year on January 6th.

Traditionally, the main focus of Christmas decorations in Italy is the presepe, Nativity scene or creche. Nearly every church will have a presepe and they are often found outdoors in a square or other public area as well. The nativity scenes are usually set up for about a month, starting around December 8, the Feast Day of the Immaculate Conception.

Many people set up a small Christmas crib in their house and figurines for nativity scenes are made in many parts of Italy, with some of the best coming from Naples and Sicily. Although the presepe is usually set up before Christmas, the baby Jesus is added to the nativity on Christmas Eve.

The Nativity scene or Christmas crib is said to have originated with St. Francis of Assisi in 1223. Although he may not have been the first to construct one, he started the tradition when he constructed a nativity scene out of straw in a cave in the town of Greccio and held Christmas Eve mass there.

Best places to see Christmas Cribs, or Presepi, in Italy

Naples is the best city to visit for their presepi. Hundreds of nativity scenes are erected throughout the city. Some creches are very elaborate and may be handmade or use antique figures. The street Via San Gregorio Armeno in central Naples is filled with displays and stalls selling Nativity scenes.

For families in all the world Christmas is the chance to get together, eat and exchange presents as sign of mutual affection. Italian family is no exception in which the cult for food reveals itself in all his might in an eating marathon which sees us engaged in tasting all

kind of dishes, from sweet to sour, from fish to meat, all obviously in more than abundant portions.

The menus could vary, with recipes handed down from one generation to the next and/or typical from the region of origin, to refurbished or new "trend", influenced by typical ingredients coming from other parts of the world.

Usually December 24th Christmas Eve dinner is based on fish. Appetizers, fundamental in the Italian more important lunch/dinners, could be made of canapés with various kinds of paté (olives, artichokes, eggplants, etc.), sea salad, small artichokes and other vegetables preserved in oil (best if home made), toasted bread with butter and anchovies.

First course could be "Pescatora Rice" (rice with sea food) or spaghetti with clams, to which a chickpea soup, can be added.

Going on to the second course: mixed fried fish, sea bream and bass cooked in the oven with potatoes and side salad, are the top of the line. Fried vegetables (artichokes, cauliflower, zucchini), which are instead part of the Roman tradition, are never missing.

December 25th lunch, therefore on Christmas day, its permissible to eat meat. First course is either a Lasagna, Cannelloni or a timbale of pasta, while for second course we see mixed roast or roast beef.

In both cases, to complete it all, various types of cheeses, then fruits, dried fruits and lots of sweets, everything soaked by a good wine, red or white, and rivers of sparkling wine, coffee and coffee killers (Grappa, Whiskey and other hard liquors)

Even if the menu varies from region to region and that is absolutely possible, you will always find on every Italian table Panettone, Pandoro and Torrone.

The Panettone and Pandoro are their "excellencies" as far as Christmas cakes are concerned. Panettone, made in the region of Lombardy, is characterized by containing raisins and candied fruits. People who don't like these ingredients choose the Pandoro, made in Verona, which has a soft dough and golden color and is served with a veil of sprinkled sugar.

The Torrone, the most typical of the Christmas sweets, its available with honey or chocolate almonds or pistachios, its also comes in a mini version, mono dose, called "Condorello", named after the manufacturer.

ITALIAN TRADITIONAL HOLIDAY CAKES & RECIPES

The PANDORO DI VERONA - A complex cake which is very traditional among the Venetians and Italians. It is a tall cake, needing to rise almost a dozen times, and covered in a sifted powdered sugar. They are sold commercially almost everywhere-- especially around the holidays: Christmas, New Years and Befana.

We can kindly take you back to the Austrian Empire "Asburgico" with this story. It would have been the pastry makers of the Royal House of Vienna to prepare "L'Antenato" of Pandoro (pan-bread\ oro-gold). And they named it "The Bread of Vienna." A variant to the French brioche dough. Others argue that it was native to the Republic of Veneto, that it was Venetian - and from the period of the Renaissance-- when wealthy families consumed a dessert cake called "Pan de Oro." The cake was entirely covered with thin leaves of gold, made from gold coins. Another theory seeming to be more appropriate is that the "Nadalin" (which was a dessert cake having the form of a star) may have performed its reappearing act once more. Following tradition at the end of the 1800's, the Venetian families prepared this cake during the holidays.

If you're not able to conquest one of these cakes, try preparing it at home, but follow the recipe scrupulously!

Ingredients:

� 650g Flour (23oz) � 250g butter (8.82oz) � 200g sugar (7.05oz) � 8 eggs � 30g beer yeast (1.06oz) � 1\2 cup of whipping cream (not whipped) � lemon rind grated � 1 package of powdered vanilla 0.5g (1.76 oz) � 50g of powdered sugar

Preparation:

Place in bowl 75g (2.65 oz) of flour with 10g (0.35oz) of sugar and crumbling the yeast, then unite one egg yolk and blend into the mix. If the dough is too solid add a little warm

water. Combine the ingredients well, and place the bowl in a warm place. (18-20°C \ 64°-68°F) to let rise for about 2 hours.

Now, unite the dough with 160g (5.64oz) of flour, and 25g (0.88oz) of softened butter, 90g (3.17oz) of sugar and 3 more egg yolks. Blend well, to perfection-and place in a warm place to rise another 2 hours.

After that unite 375g of flour, 40g of softened butter, 75g () of sugar, 1 whole egg, and 3 yolks. Work the dough again and blend in the ingredients then place to rise another 2 hours.

Put the dough now on a counter or flat surface and knead incorporating the 1\2 cup of liquid whipping cream, the grated lemon peel, and a dash of powdered vanilla. Now weigh the dough and calculate for every Kilo-(2.2 lbs) 150g () of butter. With the rolling pin, roll out the dough and make a square not too wide-place in the center, diced up butter pieces not too hard. Fold up the dough and with the rolling pin roll out and fold three times, roll out again and fold in three. Let rest for 30 minutes.

After 30 minutes roll out the dough again and fold three times, roll out again and fold three times, and let rest another 30 minutes.

In the meantime butter 2 deep baking pans (without hole in center) now dust with sugar. Place the dough on a flat surface, and work lightly for a few minutes with

your hands rolling it and dusting it with flour. Make to balls with the dough and put them in the two prepared baking dishes. The dough should fill half the baking pan. Place them in a warm place to rise or until the dough reaches the level of the baking pan.

When ready, place them in a hot oven 190°C (374°F) for about 40 minutes. After about 20 minutes lower the oven temperature to allow the inside to cook without colorizing the outside too quickly.

As soon as they are cooked, take them out of the oven and place them on paper towels to allow them to cool, dust in powdered sugar!

PANETTONE

The Story of the Panettone

The invention of an ex-falconer or a legend?

Like the night that Ugo left the house through the window in the stark coldness on that night in Milan. With ease he jumped over the banister of the balcony and fell

into the garden of that residence. The dogs began to bark like mad, and without a care he ran across the yard until he was flattened against a barbed wire fence. (muro di cinta) He stopped for a second to catch his breath, broken up over the run and from fear. His eyes searched within the black darkness, towards the mansion, only to see a shimmering light in the window come on, the light of a candle.

All was tranquil, all was silent. The dogs were all in a state of rest; even that night, no one saw him escape from the window. Grasping some bricks, Ugo hoisted himself over the wall of the splendid mansion he shared with his father, Giacomo of Atellani, had received a gift from Ludovico il Moro-- from the courts in Milan.

The moon hides itself behind the clouds in theses shadows and this would have covered his expedition towards the courtyard all the way to Toni's shop, the bread-maker. Where here he came every night just to see his Adalgisa. A secret love, with opposing figures from his family, he was fond of the baker's girl for a long time. But things wouldn't go well, and shortly he would find out. Adalgisa was always tired; her work load was intensified from when her father's apprentice became sick. She must stop seeing him, because she didn't have time to make the dough's, prepare and bake them.

Ugo didn't want to have to give up those splendid eyes-for that he would have done anything and the following day, even though wearing meek and inferior clothing-- he, who was the falconer of Ludovico il Moro- was to be assumed as the new apprentice.

Nevertheless, the young boy, each night, broke his back in the shop preparing bread, and the shop's business seemed to continue to get worse. A new shop had opened right next to them, and was stealing away all of Toni's clients.

Ugo didn't waste any time, and with the recklessness of the typical youngster, he stole a splendid pair of Moro falcons-revenge to buy butter. That night, while he was mixing up the regular ingredients, he also added the butter that he acquired. The following day, the shop was overtaken with a rush, and already gave way to gossiping whispers of tall tales about the most delicious bread in Milan! Over the next few days another two falcons were sacrificed in obtainment of more butter, and a little sugar to add to the bread dough. Milan went crazy for "Toni's Special Bread." There was a line that appeared outside the shop, it was unending, and every night he had to make even more.

Meanwhile the winter began, and business picked up even more. Ugo and Adalgisa could think again to a future to spend together.

During the Christmas holidays, Ugo added the last magical touch to the status of the recipe for this special bread; and he added an egg, tiny pieces of candied citron, and raisins. All of Milan, during the few days before Christmas, was over at the shop to pick up-what everybody was calling- "PanGrande" or "Pan del Toni." From these came the "Panettone" meaning "Big Bread" and from then on, was on every table during the holidays. Toni was rich, and Ugo's parents were no longer grumbling over Adalgisa, and as every story goes, the two youngsters got married and lived happily ever after.

This is surely the most noted legend for one of the most glorious products Milan ever had- the Panettone. According to other stories, the invention of the panettone came about in a different way.

This is the tale of Ludovico Sforza and like every Christmas he was ready to be served at the table with the gentleman of Milan - his magnificent guests, at his lavish banquet. The famous cook was at Ludovico's service, giving his service in such a way that no one thought twice to the amount of a proper tip. He was governing his numerous subjects, whether it was at the table or around the stoves. The plates succeeded one after the

other, with just the right pauses between them, and to cater to the correct tastes of the guests towards a marvellous dessert that must finish off an important dinner like this one.

The cook provided in person the overlooking and care of the batter for this important dessert, which was a secret recipe handed down from father to son all down through his family for centuries.

From in the kitchen came jangles and yells that covered the clattering of the plates and the rummaging of the pans, like everyone had something to do, and because of this, someone had forgotten to take out the cake. The cook realized that the dessert was missing, and in the oven he found a mass of something burnt and imaginable. He screamed and the curses even reached out to where the guests were. It was too late to prepare another elaborate batter, it didn't matter who forgot the cake in the oven-anyways he was in charge and he'd be the one that Ludovico would come to and condemn to death. Desperate, the cook gave up and began to cry and cry.

Toni a poor kitchen helper, came over to him and had keep for himself some of the batter in which he had added some candied fruits, an egg, sugar and raisins.

He wanted to cook it after he was done working, to have something to eat. If the cook wanted, he could bring it to the table. Guided by the force of desperation, the cook put the confection into the oven. Nevertheless, (the poor face) not having anything left to lose, the cook served the cake at the table. There aren't enough words; the Pan del Toni had made a deafening success, and now the cook was now obligated to serve it at each and every banquet every Christmas for years to come, and soon it became a custom diffused to the whole population.

TORRONE

Torrone, otherwise known as nougat, is a concoction made from honey, well-whipped egg whites, vanilla, and walnuts or almonds; it's an ancient sweet that requires considerable skill and care to make well, and in the past was also a great favorite among pastry chefs because it can be used as a building material for making fanciful cakes and other such delights. It's made throughout Italy, and Sicily's is especially renowned.

INGREDIENTS:

� 1 2/3 pounds (700 g) honey � 1 3/4 pounds (800 g) blanched, peeled almonds � 1 3/4 pounds (800 g) sugar � 4 egg whites � Rice paper or edible wafers of the kind used for baking

PREPARATION:

Preparing torrone at home is not easy; one needs exercise great care in the cooking, stirring the ingredients constantly to obtain a well-amalgamated mixture. Begin by cooking the honey for an hour over a double boiler, stirring constantly, until it has caramelized.

PANFORTE

Panforte, simply translated, is "strong-bread". Panforte is traditionally a dense mix of almonds, candied fruit sweetened with honey and spices. In many parts of the world, you can find panforte year round but it was traditionally a Christmas sweetbread and that is rooted deep into our traditions here at Ditalia as well. Panforte is round and dense with several styles available, the most popular being the sweet Panforte Margherita. This typical and traditional recipe of Panforte Margherita from Siena is still prepared according to the old, original recipe with candied fruits and almonds and an exclusive mixture of spices.

Siena's Panforte -- A Christmas Delight

CHRISTMAS MEANS MANY THINGS -- it's a religious holiday, but also an opportunity for families to gather, strengthening the ties between the generations. This aspect of the holiday is especially important in parts of Italy that were abandoned by the younger

generation during the economic boom of the 1960s, when the unemployed in the provinces moved to the northern cities to take factory jobs.

One of the highlights of the reunion is of course the Christmas dinner, which varies tremendously from place to place; in Tuscany and Emilia it's meat based, featuring, among other things, cappelletti (the Modenese variation on tortellini) in capon broth, and later boiled capon. Desserts tend to be sumptuous, and perhaps Siena's most of all: Panforte, a heavenly mixture of honey, spices, candied fruit, and almonds whose origin stretches back into the mists of time:

Some say it was invented in the 1200s by a novitiate nun, Suor Leta, who discovered a mound of sugar, spices and almonds in the bottom of the spice cabinet -- mice had chewed holes in the bags, and the precious offerings made by pilgrims returning from the Holy Land were hopelessly mixed. Her first thought was to gather the mess in a bag and bury it, but that sort of waste was a sin. So she stood there, stroking her chin and wondering what to do, when a black cat came into the kitchen and the thought came to her: Put it all on the fire and make yourself something tasty. So she did; the sugar caramelized, the spices amalgamated, and to keep it all from sticking to the pan she stirred in some honey, then the remaining almonds and put the mixture into the oven to let it set. It smelled delicious and she was feeling very pleased with herself, when the cat, who had been rubbing up against her and purring, said, "Aren't you going to taste it?" Cats don't talk but the Devil does; she dumped the contents of the pan over him and he changed to his true form, vanishing in a foul-smelling puff of smoke. By the time Suor Berta, the mother Superior, got to the kitchen the dessert's heavenly aroma had overcome the devil's stench; curious to know what was powerful enough to overcome the Evil One Berta tasted what was left in the pan...

Others say Panforte is older still: An orphan who followed the comet to Baby Jesus tried to give him the crust of bread he had in his pocket; Joseph took it, gave a crumb to one of the birds whose nest was in the rafters overhead, and returned the rest to the boy, whose eyes filled with tears at the thought that his gift was too poor. Then a voice thanked him, and when he returned home to the hovel he shared with his grandmother he found his parents, his mother radiant and his father in burnished armor, while the table was decked for a feast, with sumptuous platters arranged around an exquisite pastry made with almonds, honey and candied fruit...

No matter how you look at it, there is something magical about the pan pepato (peppered (i.e. spiced) bread) that developed into panforte. Over the centuries there have been many variations, as new ingredients were discovered or became available. In

the 1820s the Parenti bakery introduced a chocolate laced variety that was immensely popular for a time, and is still sold, but now the most popular varieties are Panforte Nero and Panforte Margherita. Panforte nero is, as its name implies, dark, and has an underlying bitter taste conferred by bitter almonds; it's sought out by connoisseurs. Panforte Margherita is light colored and much more delicate, with a dusting of confectioner's sugar; Enrico Righi developed the recipe in 1879 and first offered it to Queen Margerita, who came to see the Palio with King Umberto every year.

Most printed recipes for panforte yield industrial quantities -- 50 pounds or more. These are more manageable; the quantities for panforte nero are from Il Re Dei Cuochi, published anonymously by Salani in 1885, while theose for Panforte Margherita are from a collection of traditional Tuscan recipes.

Panforte Nero: Panforte Margherita:

2 1/2 ounces baking chocolate 1 3/4 cups flour

2/3 cup sugar 1 3/4 cups confectioner's sugar

1 cup less 2 tablespoons shelled almonds

3/4 cup honey

1/2 cup honey 1 cup less 2 tablespoons nutmeats

4 shelled bitter almonds 1 3/4 cup shelled almonds

1 3/4 cups flour 2 ounces candied citron

A handful of pine nuts 8 ounces candied fruit peel (oranges and such)

1/2 teaspoon. ground cinnamon 1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon

About 4 ounces candied citron A pinch of allspice

The grated rind of a lemon 1 scant teaspoon ground coriander

1/4 teaspoon ground cloves 1 tablespoon confectioner's sugar

1/4 teaspoon ground pepper

15 Wafers (the kind used for communion; available from delicatessens)

Once you have assembled the ingredients, proceed as follows:

Parboil the nuts and toast them lightly. If you are making panforte nero, mash half the almonds with the bitter almonds, chop the rest with the pine nuts, and then combine the two; if you are making panforte Margherita chop the nuts together. Dice the candied fruit and mix it and the spices with the nuts, then mix in the flour.

Line a 9-inch diameter deep dish pan with the wafers.

Using a copper or heavy-bottomed pot and a very low flame, set the sugar, honey, chocolate (for panforte nero) and a touch of water to boil. Stir continuously with a wooden spoon, being careful to keep the mixture from sticking. When the syrup reaches

the hard ball stage, remove the pot from the stove and stir in the fruit and nut mixture. Pour the resulting batter into the pan, smoothing the top with a dampened knife. Bake in a 300 F oven for about a half hour. The panforte should not brown.

When the panforte's done, remove the pan from the oven and trim the excess wafers sticking up around it. If you are making panforte Margherita, sprinkle the confectioner's sugar over it.