1/19#Isra

Isra by

2/19#Isra

This blouse in leather (or leatherette!) says alluring and on-point l ike no other. It goes without saying that it’s also

dripping with style, with a minimalistic cut and hidden button placket. It looks great worn out, but is also stunning tucked

in, or tied at the bottom. Bias tape is used to finish the hem. The set in sleeves are straight and finished with simple wrist trim. The seams under the bust and halfway down the sleeves

are typical features of leather garments. Not crazy about the lapped seams or would you l ike to sew the blouse in a

different kind of fabric? No problem. Just tape the pattern pieces together, and you’re done!

4 - 30

Isra by

3/19#Isra

pattern measurements (in cm)

size 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22 24 26 28 30

length 66.25 66.5 66.75 67 67.25 67.5 67.75 68 68.5 69 69.5 70 70.5 71

sleeve length* 69.25 69.5 69.75 70.25 70.5 70.75 71 71.25 71.75 72.25 72.5 73 73.25 73.75

bust 88 92 96 100 104 108 112 116 122.25 128.25 134.25 140.25 146.25 152.25

hem circumference** 103.75 107.5 111.5 115.25 119.25 123 127 130.75 136.25 142.25 148 154 159.75 165.75

* Including the shoulder length and cuff.** At the slit.

IMPORTANT Adjust the amount of fabric to be used based on these alterations.

Compare the stated lengths to the measured or desired lengths. Lengthen or shorten the blouse and/or sleeves by cutting the pattern pieces at the indicated double lines. Then either increase the distance between the cut pieces by the desired amount (to lengthen), or overlap the pieces (to shorten). Make sure that the CF and CB lines and the side seams are always straight.

size chart (in cm)

B

shorten or lengthen the pattern here

This chart's measurements are the pattern measurements based on the fabric type and serve as a reference. Ease has been added to the width measurements (in addition to the exact body measurements) for a more comfortable fit. Isra is designed to have a loose cut. Depending on the preferred cut, you could decide to go a size smaller or larger than the recommended size.

Choose your size based on your bust measurement. If your hip measurements are wider than those in the size chart, check the hem circumference in the chart below to see if there’s enough room or whether the pattern needs to be altered. It's easy to do. Simply trace the line of the one size instead of the other.

size UK 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22 24 26 28 30

EUR 32 34 36 38 40 42 44 46 48 50 52 54 56 58

H (height) 160 164 166 167 168 169 170 171 172 172 172 172 172 172

B (bust) 76 80 84 88 92 96 100 104 110 116 122 128 134 140

4/19#Isra

notions

• Thread

• Iron-on interfacing: max. 65 cm

• Bias tape: see table

• Buttons (Ø 1.1 cm): 6

• Fabric: see table

fabric advice The sturdy texture of leather(ette), suede(tte) and denim add structure to this clean, minimalist look. Prefer poplin, linen or Tencel? No worries. It’s all good, as long as you steer clear of fabrics that are too fluid or thin.

fabric 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22 24 26 28 30

fabric width 110 cm cm 190 195 205 240 245 245 250 250 255 260 265 270 270 290

fabric width 140 cm cm 140 140 140 140 150 150 165 185 190 200 205 210 210 215

The corresponding fabric layout can be found starting on page 6 of these sewing instructions.

bias tape 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22 24 26 28 30

length cm 141.5 145.25 149 153 156.75 160.75 164.75 168.5 174.25 180.25 186.25 192.25 198.5 204.5

5/19#Isra

pattern pieces & seam allowances (in cm)

1. top piece front: 2x

2. bottom piece front: 2x

3. top piece back: 1x on fabric fold

4. bottom piece back: 1x on fabric fold

5. sleeve top piece: 2x

6. sleeve bottom piece: 2x

7. cuff: 2x

8. collar: 2x on fabric fold

9. collar band: 2x on fabric fold

IMPORTANT

The pieces highlighted in light yellow have iron-on

interfacing attached to the wrong side.

material type

fabric

iron-on interfacing

1

1

1

111

1

1

1 1

1

1

1

11

111

1

1

1

1

1

1

11

1

11

1

1

11

1

1

1

1

1

1

3

1

2

5

6

7

0.50.5

0.50

00

0

0

0

4

98

0.5

To sew the garment as described in the instructions, you need to draw the illustrated seam allowances around the paper pattern pieces before cutting them out. If you are using a PDF pattern, the pattern can be printed with or without seam allowances. To find out more, check out the video.

Note: we used bias tape to finish the hem so that the hemline wouldn’t look too heavy. You could also just increase the hem allowance on pattern pieces 2 and 4 and stitch a blind hem.

6/19#Isra

fabric layout – solid fabrics fabric width 110 cm

4 - 10

FABRIC FOLD

SELVEDGE

3

6

4 9

7 1 2 5

98 8

6

3 4

7 12 5

9 98 8FABRIC FOLD

SELVEDGE

6

34

71

9 98 8

12 - 28

30

FABRIC FOLD

SELVEDGE

+5

52

2

SELVEDGE

SELVEDGE

7/19#Isra

3

671

5

2

9 98 84

fabric layout – solid fabrics fabric width 140 cm

marking pattern pieces

FABRIC FOLD

SELVEDGE

4 - 10

Notch the pattern paper and fabric at the following points

single notch

double notch

V notch

Mark the following points using marking thread

buttons

buttonhole

3

6

7

1 5 2

99 884

SELVEDGE

FABRIC FOLD

12 - 30

8/19#Isra

Leatherette doesn’t fray, which means you don’t really need to f inish the edges. The illustrations do, however, show you when overlocking is needed.

Use a Teflon presser foot to ensure a smooth fabric feed. You could also use a dual feed presser foot or put a piece of paper between the fabric and the presser foot. Avoiding pinning leather or leatherette because it will leave holes in the fabric.

Paper clips are a handy alternative. Use a regular to long stitch length.

NOTE

sewing instructions

The pieces are always sewn together with the right sides of the fabric facing, unless stated otherwise.

1Cut off a strip from all the LF pieces (top piece front [1], bottom piece front [2]) along the indicated cutting line.

F front

B back

RF right front

LF left front

CF centre front

right side

wrong side

bias tape

iron-on interfacing

1

2

9/19#Isra

Finish the bottom of the top piece front (1) and top piece back (3) with overlock stitching.

The top of the bottom piece front (2) and bottom piece back (4) should also be finished with overlock stitching.

Pin and sew the top piece front and bottom piece front together.

Press the seam allowance open and topstitch just above and below the seam.

11

3

4

22

1 1

1

22

1

22

1

10/19#Isra

Pin and sew the top piece back and bottom piece back together.

Press the seam allowance open and topstitch just above and below the seam.

2First, press the LF piece at the CF 1 cm over towards the wrong side. Now, press again, this time from the V notches at the top and bottom.

Stitch into place right next to the edge.

3

4

4

3

2

1

2

1

1 cm

2

1

1

11/19#Isra

Press the RF piece over from the outermost V notches at the top and bottom.

Now, press again, this time from the V notches at the top and bottom highlighted in red.

Sew down the centre of the buttonhole placket through all layers of fabric (at 3 cm from the edge).

1

2

1

2

1

8

2

2

1

3 cm

12/19#Isra

Create vertical buttonholes on the right half of the button-hole placket. The top and bottom buttonholes have been marked on the pattern. Distribute the remaining button-holes evenly between the top and bottom buttonholes.

Fold the buttonhole placket in half lengthwise along the stitching.

Attach the buttons to the LF piece to match the buttonholes.

2

1

1

2

1

2

13/19#Isra

3Pin and sew the shoulder seams.

Finish the raw edges together with overlock stitching and press the seam allowance towards the front.

4Place the two collars (8) on top of each other, right sides to-gether. Pin and sew the contours of the collars (8) together, except for the bottoms.

Trim the seam allowance from the corners.

Turn the right way out and topstitch right next to the edge.

Press one of the two collar bands (9) at the bottom 1 cm over to the wrong side.

1

2 2

1

4

3

1

2 2

1

4

3

3

1

9

98

1 cm

9

14/19#Isra

Stack the collar bands on top of each other with the right sides facing. The collar band with the pressed bottom should be on top.

Slide the completed collar between the collar bands so all the raw edges are aligned.

Pin and sew the pieces together.

Trim the seam allowances at the curves to prevent any bunching.

Now, turn the collar bands the right way out.

Pin and sew the unpressed bottom of the collar band to the neckline along the right side of the neckline.

Fold the collar band with the pressed bottom over towards the wrong side of the neckline. The fold line should be di-rectly over the previous stitching. Pin and sew into place. Finish stitching the collar band closed.

Make a horizontal buttonhole on the collar band of the RF piece. Attach the button to the collar band on the LF piece to match the buttonhole.

8

9

8

9

89

1 1

3

15/19#Isra

5Finish the seams at the bottom of the sleeve top piece (5) and the top of the sleeve bottom piece (6) with overlock stitching.

Pin and sew both pieces together with the notches matching.

Press the seam allowance open and topstitch just above and below the seam.

Pin and sew the sleeve cap to the armhole, matching the notches. The single notch marks the front, while the double notch marks the back. The single notch at the top should align with the shoulder seam.

5

6

5

6

5

6

5

1 3

16/19#Isra

Finish the raw edges together with overlock stitching.

Pin and sew the side and underarm seams into place.

Finish the raw edges together with overlock stitching.

6Press the cuff (7) in half lengthwise with the wrong sides of the fabric touching to create a fold line.

Open back out.

Next, fold the cuff in half crosswise with the right sides of the fabric touching. Pin and sew the short ends together. Press the seam allowance open.

4

2

5

6

4

2

5

6

7

7

7

17/19#Isra

Press one end 1 cm down onto the wrong side.

Fold the cuff down along the fold line.

Slide the cuff into the sleeve.

Pin and sew the unpressed raw edge to the wrong side of the sleeve.

Fold the cuff over towards the right side of the sleeve and place the fold line (of the pressed seam allowance) directly on top of the previous stitching. Stitch into place right next to the edge.

Finish by edge stitching all the way around.

1 cm

7

6

7

6

7

18/19#Isra

7Open the bias tape for the hemline all the way out and press.

Press the short ends 1 cm over towards the wrong side.

Press the bias tape in half lengthwise with the wrong sides of the fabric facing.

Pin and sew the raw edges of the bias tape to the hem along the right side of the garment.

1 cm

2 2

2/4

4

19/19#Isra

2/4

2

Then understitch. Fold the bias tape and seam allowance over and stitch the bias tape to the seam allowance un-derneath.

Fold the bias tape all the way over to the wrong side and edgestitch into place.

2/4

4

2