Introduction To Fashion

Part One

Introduction to Fashion

Chapter 1

The Evolution of Fashion

Chapter 1The Evolution of Fashion

3

Rose Bertin- The First Influential Designer

• Court milliner, 1772• Becomes Marie Antoinette’s confidante and

seamstress, “Court Minister of Fashion”• Prior to Bertin, the aristocrats’ elaborate dresses

were made by “secret” names• Aristocracy wanted the designer for themselves

only


4

Charles F. Worth- The First Couturier

• Englishman migrates to France and opens first couture house in 1858

• Court dressmaker to Empress Eugènie, wife of Napoleon III

• Others follow suit and set up houses• Lyon becomes known for its textiles• The Industrial Revolution begins to accelerate by

the middle of the 19th Century


5

Important Industrial Inventions for the Industry

• 1733 - Englishman John Kay invents the flying shuttle

• 1764 - James Hargreaves, another Englishman, invents the spinning jenny

• 1785 - Englishman Edmund Cartwright invents the power loom


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Important Industrial Inventions

• 1793 - Eli Whitney invents the cotton gin in America

• 1846 - Elias Howe, Jr. patents the sewing machine in America

• 1858 - Isaac Singer patents the sewing machine with a foot treadle in America


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Important Industrial Inventions

• The combination of the above mentioned inventions serves to create the capacity for ready-to-wear clothes to be produced on a large scale

• It also creates employment for women, and allows them to move out of the home and earn cash for their labor


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Labor is needed…

• Immigrant population fills jobs• Unions begin to develop• ILGWU for women in 1900• ACTWU for men in 1914• They strike, but wield little effective power


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The catalyst for change…one horrible event

• 1911 Triangle Shirtwaist Factory fire in New York City

• 146 people die, mostly young immigrant women• Onlookers watch from the street below as

employees hurl themselves out of windows to the street below


10

Retailing Develops in Response to Consumer Demand

• Limited-line stores– Specialty stores restricted to narrow

classifications– Hudson’s 1881, Nordstrom’s 1901

• Department stores (or full-line)– Dayton’s 1902, Bendel’s 1912


11

Mail Orders

• Rural free delivery, RFD, opens the way for this avenue

• Montgomery Ward in 1872, issued the first catalog

• Sears, in 1893, issued a catalog in excess of 500 pages


12

Primary Market

• Textiles are the focus• Fibers, both natural (cotton, flax, silk, and wool)

and manufactured (man-made), are the starting point

• Transformed into fabrics by subsequent processes


13

Primary Market

• Vertical Integration– Manufacturer performs all steps, from fiber to

finished fabric

• Converters– Take fabric and finish it according to

manufacturers’ specs


14

Secondary Market

• Manufacturers– Responsible for all phases of production– Cutting and sewing done in various

configurations

• Reps or Jobbers– Sell non-competing lines


15

Secondary Market

• Limited–Function Wholesalers – Reps/Jobbers

• Full–Function Wholesalers– Take actual title

• Licensing– Pierre Cardin made this popular in the ’60s


16

Retailers• Competition

– Federated with Bloomingdale’s, Macy’s, Burdines and Broadway is a conglomerate, as are rivals May Company, Target and Dillard’s

• Keep changing– Staying with the times is crucial to survival in

today’s retail environment

– Montgomery Ward closed its doors and Sears eliminated general catalog to expand in-store fashion merchandise


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Retailers

• Spinoff– Specialty stores featuring specific collections

• Macy’s Aeropostale

• Outlets– For manufacturers to dispose of leftover

merchandise• Woodbury Commons


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Retailers

• Off-Price– Discounters offer manufacturers’ irregulars and

closeout goods• T.J. Maxx, Marshall’s


19

Private Label

• Department stores manufacture their own goods• This gives them exclusivity and better profit

margins• It also allows for flexibility in pricing


20

Flagships

• Department stores first and foremost store• Often in major cities, they were a tourist

attraction and a matter of civic pride• Today the consolidation of retailers has left

fewer and fewer of these


21

Malls

• The suburban shopping environment• The exodus of the ’50s, spurred by automobiles

and suburban building, encouraged retailers to build where the consumer was


22

Festival Squares

• A more recent development, creating a carnival like atmosphere in downtown areas– Fisherman’s Wharf, S.F.– Quincy Market, Boston– South Street Seaport, N.Y.


23

Enclosed Outlets

• Even more recent are the development of outlets

• They have become a destination for tourists

• Examples include– Sawgrass, FL– Woodbury Commons, NY


24

Fashion Streets

• Elite shopping areas in exclusive neighborhoods– Worth Avenue, FL– Rodeo Drive, L.A.– Madison Avenue, NY


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Leased Departments

• Require specially trained personnel

• Examples include– Fine Jewelry– Shoes– Restaurants– Furs


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Franchising

• Allows an empire to expand• Franchisee benefits from franchisor

merchandise, know-how and advertising• Franchisee must follow the franchisor’s rules• Benetton was a great example of this in the

1980s


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Consultants

• Forecaster: 18 months in advance they anticipate trends, by visiting the primary trade shows

• Resident Buying Offices or RBO: they are located in the wholesale market garment center; for smaller size stores, but also have corporate entities

• Reporting Services: send out information via reports to subscribers


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The Future…

• Trends come from the street– Body piercing, tattoos, baggy pants

• Secondary collections grow

• Lycra®, Teflon®, microfibers for silk change product


29

The Future…

• CAD and CAM continue to automate and speed production and shorten runs

• On-line sales will grow; Spiegel’s, Lands’ End, Brooks Brothers and Eddie Bauer look to increase their gains

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Nicholas J. Pantinakis and Sherrie Morgan

Introduction To Fashion

Lifestyle

Transcript of Introduction To Fashion