INP FINAL- Sara Christie- Level 4 FT Buying and Merchandising

SARA CHRISTIEGROUP A

INP

Contents

ContentsExecutive SummaryOverview

Brand StrategyHistory of Dr MartensFacts and FiguresBrand PositioningUnisex OverviewCustomer ProfileComp Shop Summary

Trend and RangeDevelopmentInspiration BoardInspirationCatwalkKey ColoursKey Fabrics and TrimsKey PrintsKey Shapes

RangeMood BoardRange BoardProduct DevelopmentLogo DevelopmentPrint RatioColour RatioPrice ArchitectureWashing LineOutfit Builds

Sales PlansOnline Sales PlanPop Up Sales Plan

SourcingWorld MapSourcing StrategyWhy Portugal?Why Turkey?Line Detail/Critical Path

Logistics/Packaging/Repeats

Buyers PackSpec SheetSpec GarmentFit CommentsFit PicturesTesting and WashcareOpen CostingLabeling and PackagingConstraints Summary

MarketingWebsitePop Up BoxparkPlanogramLaunch PartySocial Media

Evaluation

AppendixTimelineComp ShopsMarketing P’sPESTSWOTPESTEL (Turkey)PESTEL (Portugal)Seasonal ReviewBibliography

Executive SummaryDr Martens have sold and produced their iconic footwear in England since 1960. They have continually built upon their designs and can be seen on all customer types, catwalks and celebrities.

Now an international brand selling in the US, Europe, Africa and Asia. Around 40% of sales now come from the US.Although they have fewer stores than the average high street retailer (just 25 in the UK), the brand relies on their website to reach customers.

Recently sold by original founder’s R Griggs Group, now under new management this could be the perfect time to adapt and extend their franchise even further. Particularly their clothing range.Having been saved from near bankruptcy in the early 2000’s the company has had a recent turnaround opening 30 Dr Martens stores internationally since 2010 and making an average profit of £30m per year.

As Dr Martens is currently trading strongly an extension of their clothing department could be an exciting, profitable and commercial prospect.

The concept of this report is to combine the recent trend of unisex clothing ranges using classic styles and shapes seen throughout subcultures associated with Dr Martens over the last 50 years.

Dr Martens footwear could be described as unisex, therefore a unisex clothing range would tie in well with their brand model and ideology. An association with individuality and edgy style would also work compliment this concept.

The recent popularity of ungendered clothing has been brought to the forefront of fashion by designers such as Vivienne Westwood, Gucci and Louis Vuitton. This trend has only just reached the high street with Zara launching a unisex range, this could be a great opportunity for Dr Martens to become a more competitive high street retailer whilst gaining publicity and increasing profit. Dr Martens unisex clothing will be a 30-piece range launched for AW 2017 (Sep 8th). It will run as a pop up shop in London’s trendy Shoreditch (Boxpark) for 4 weeks and sold online in the UK for 12 weeks. Although this will be launched in the UK future aspirations would be to launch internationally.The Pop up store has planned sales of £115,000 and a margin of 60%, whilst online has planned sales of £472,993 with an average margin of 58.9%.

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OverviewMissionProduce a high quality gender neutral clothing range. Retain DR Martens individual style code whilst drawing inspiration from past subcultures and current catwalk trends appealing to the target Dr Martens customer.

VisionTo become a permanent collection for DR Martens online which could then be transitioned into store.

Collection PillarsHeritageAlternativeInnovativeNormAmbiguousQualityAspirationalEquality

USPGender Neutral Alternative TrendBorn from a shoe brand

BRAND STRATEGY

Dr Martens is a British footwear and clothing brand, well known for their distinctive style and distinguished by the air cushioned sole found on their footwear.

Dr Martens is thought of as a British brand however the air cushioned sole was created and developed in Germany by Dr Klaus Marten and Dr Herbert Funck. They came up with the idea after World War 2, finding the standard issued army boots too uncomfortable.The boot design and sole became succesful in Germany and they opened their own factory in 1959,

British shoe retailer R. Griggs Group Ltd bought patent rights to manufacture the shoes in the United Kingdom. Griggs slightly reshaped the heel to make them fit better and added yellow stitching and trademarked the soles as AirWair.

The first Dr Martens boots came out in England 1 April 1960 (known as style 1460, still in production now). The boots were originally popular amongst workers such as postmen, police officers and factory workers.

The boot design and sole became succesful in

A History Of

Fact and Figures

• The US is Dr Martens biggest single market, constituating around 40% of group revenue

• Dr Martens have 45 fully owned stores with more planned opening across all regions expexted within the next year

• The companies net working capital at the end of 2015 was £37.6 million

• Dr Martens sales increased 13% to £235.3 million in 2015, its first full year under new owners Permira

• In 2013 Dr Martens was sold to private equaty firm Permira for £300 million

• Opened 14 new stores in the UK, US and Hong Kong between 2009-2011

By the late 1960s skinheads began to wear ‘DM’s’. However, in the 1980’s boots started becoming a uniform for neo Nazis and football hooligans, there were negative connotations and sales began to fall.

Dr Martens became popular again in the 1990s as grunge fashion arose.

2000s saw Dr Martens came close to bankruptcy. Despite selling five million pairs of boots a year the company was still at a loss of twenty million a year. This was blamed on manufacturing in the UK and the company started sourcing from China as it was less expensive.

Five factories and two shops were closed during this time and over 1000 jobs were lost.

In 2011 Dr Martens launched a clothing line in conjunction with Agyness Deyn, they went onto to release 4 collections up until 2014.

Worldwide sales continued to grow and by 2012 Dr Martens was assessed as the eighth fastest growing British company.

A History Of

Brand Position - Shoe Retailers Brand Position - Clothing Retailers

A graph to show Dr Martens position with their shoe retailer competition.

A graph to show Dr Martens position with their clothing retailer competitors.

Unisex clothingGender fluidity - gender neutral are terms that have arisen in the fashion industry in the past few years.

Classifying clothing by gender is the way the fashion industry has operated throughout history. Gender roles set by society have established certain characteristics that have defined particular colours and silhouettes as gender specific.

Labels such as Gucci, Vuitton, Westwood and Vetements had been at the forefront in recognising society’s changing attitude towards the traditional masculine/feminine divide.

Gender blending dressing is more than just a trend; it is a larger movement towards unisex fashion.

This movement has trickled down to the mainstream and highstreets.

In 2015 Selfridges launched ‘Agender’ which was described as a celebration of fashion without definition and provided a unique genderless shopping experience across fashion, accessories and beauty.

Zara also released their first gender neutral range in March 2016.

The gender neutral movement ties in well with Dr Martens brand model as they already provide unisex clothing and shoes. This movement can be applied when designing their range (see research pack).

Unisex

Customer Profile

Profile

Age: 18/35

Sex: Male/Female

Education/Job: Student/graduate. Young professional working in media/fashion/art/music/retail.

Geographical: All over the UK but especially in cities with an alternative social style such as London, Manchester, Liverpool and Brighton Particular areas would include Camden, Shoreditch and Fallowfield

UK Geographic Social Grades: According to the national geographical social grading produced by the ONS Dr Martens customer would mostly fall under two social grades.C2= Skilled manual occupationsC1= Supervisory, clerical and junior managerial,

Behavioural and PhyscologicalSocial Media: Uses all forms of social media such as Facebook, Tumblr, Twitter, Pinterest and WhatsApp. Particularly enjoys Instagram as a way of communicating through visuals rather than words.

Media: Follows all types of music religiously, from indie/dub/electro/DnB/pop/rock but will avoid commercial pop. Will also listen to plenty of music from previous decades. Music and fashion magazines such as NME/The Wire/Dazed and Confused/ID as well but also newspapers like The Times to keep up to date of current affairs.Watches TV shows Game of Thrones/The Walking Dead/ Better Call Saul on Netflix.

Habits: Will shop online regularly using Ebay. Avoids most of the trend driven high street stores and prefers hipster markets and pop up shops. Spends days off in coffee shops and record stores, socialises at night at gigs and trendy pubs/bars with alternative music scene.

Fashion Needs: Style would be classed as hipster/alternative. Not into fast and disposable fashion but will shop some cooler high street stores. Not afraid to take risks and influenced from genres of the past such as Punks/Mods/Rockers/Skinheads/Goth/Grunge. Happy to spend money on classic quality pieces with the right branded name but will also shop in charity/vintage/market stores for bargains.

Retailers: All saints, Urban Outfitters, Zara, Mango

Attitude and Personality: Cool, laidback, open minded, intelligent, socially aware, opinonated.

Beliefs: Very modern and strong beliefs, open minded to new cultures but can be dismissive of commercial and current trends.Likes to be seen as an intelligent and well informed individual.Style is important to them and believes this indicates who they are as a person.

Fashionability: Early adapter of alternative trendy style.Risk takers and influenced from past genres with a modern twist. Not afraid to experiment with styles and shapes.Would like to be seen as fashion leaders, not followers.

Comp Shop- Summary

The results of the comp shops show there is not much being offered in terms of gender neutral/unisex clothing on the British high street.

Dr Martens are not offering a full range of clothing within store or online. This is despite the success of previous clothing ranges from Dr Martens collaboration with Agyness Deyn.

With the recent emergence of the gender neutral trend, Dr Martens could be the perfect platform to launch a successful gender neutral range.

It may not be commercially viable or possible to launch clothing ranges within stores due to low linear. therefore, it would be more suitable to be launch on the website.

Boy London are a great example of how a unisex clothing range can be commercially successful, not afraid to take risks whilst also offering basics.

Although leading high street retailer Zara launched their own unisex range the reaction to this was not positive. It seemed brave for a well-established retaile5r like Zara to be producing a gender neutral range however, it featured primarily basics.From this reaction, when producing Dr Martens unisex range it will need to take some risks.

Dr Martens unisex range will be influenced by All Saints in terms of quality, designs and pricing as it will be appealing to a similar customer range (see Appendix).

TREND AND RANGE DEVELOPMENT

Inspiration CatwalkInspiration comes from 1980’s set film ‘This Is England’ which showcases skinhead fashion to the max and stars Vicky McClure. Cut-off jeans, check shirts, shaved heads, bombers and braces are the style staples.

Punk and grunge inspiration in the form of tartans, kilts and band t-shirts

Gender neutral clothing and share wear campaigns featuring Jaden Smith.

Unisex knits and layering for AW17.

SS17 Catwalks saw designers Wooy Oungmi, MSGM and Issey Muyaki using key silhouettes which could tie into a gender neutral range.

Inspiration can be taken from Gucci’s gender neutral range for AW16. Suits and shirts with a 70’s influence go towards creating this gender fluid range.

Udo used classic biker styles on the catwalk.Balmain Homme used harem pant styles for the SS17 collection along with draping materials.Menswear catwalks features kilts/skirts more frequently.

Vivienne Westwood’s AW16 unisex range took risks with the designs, materials and shapes used.

MSGM

SS17

Wooy

Oungmi

SS17

Issey Muyaki

SS17

Gucci

AW17

Vivienne

Westwood AW16

Udo

ss17

Balmain

Homme

SS17

Key Colours Key Fabrics and Details

Colour pallet has influence from dark gothic style colours of dark blues and reds.

Red, white and blue also relates to Dr Martens as a British company and British subculture fashion.

Dark khaki gives the colour range a grunge influence.

Grey, black and white lend neutral core colours to the trend.

The Dr Martens logo adds a pop of bright yellow.

Key fabrics cotton and polyester will be used for jersey options.

Denim products will also be 100% cotton.

Luxurious wool material will be used for knitwear and outerwear options.

Triacetate finish on drape products such as harem pants.

Cow leather will be used for biker jackets.

Key trims and details include leather zips and studs.

Key Prints Key Shapes

Khaki checks used to tie in, influenced from catwalk and past subcultures.The checked print will be used on a kilt to reference punk and Vivienne Westwood’s influence on the range.

Abstract prints on knitwear and wool options to add depth and colour.

Black and white speckled prints will bring gothic influence to the range. This will be used on outerwear and bottom options.

Plain colour options used to balance out the different prints to create a range capable of outfit building.

The Biker Jacket -A style staple for many years. Seen within different subcultures such as punk it’s an icon of rebellion. Regularly seen on catwalks no matter what they year.This style ties in with the gender neutral/subculture influenced Dr Martens trend and will appeal to their target customer.

The Kilt - will be a key shape for Dr Martens unisex range.Although a risky style shape, the reaction from Zara’s basic unisex range shows the customer and fashion industry want more risks and edgier designs.

The Long Blazer - This shape will add a smart option to the range.Made from wool it will be a luxurious option.Unisex appeal kept in mind when choosing this shape.This range will mix iconic shapes as well as classics.

The Harem Pant -This shape has been seen on catwalks.Celebs such as Jaden Smith have been seen teaming this style trouser with Dr Martens to create a cool unisex look perfect for the gender neutral Dr Martens range.

Normbiguous - A mix of ‘Norm’ and ‘Ambiguous’ to show how the range is somehow norm with its appeal to the loyal Dr Martens customer however ambiguous in how the range and gender does not have one meaning.

Product development Product development

The Norm Wrap Trouser‘Normbiguous’ has directional and risky options to stand out from the other high street unisex ranges.

The Norm Wrap trouser is inspiration from catwalk and street styles. It would work well on both men and women.

To create this style a wrap button skirt has been placed upon a straight jean.This option comes in basic black so it can be outfit built within the rest of the range.

The Norm DungareesThis option is inspired by skinheads uniform of braces and jeans, The Norm Dungarees has adapted this look and made it modern.

Dungarees have been seen in high street stores for a couple of seasons now, however mainly in womenswear. This unisex style feels new and different.

Tartan straps have been added to tie in with the rest of the trend and becomes more directional.The front pocket has been erased to create a simpler/norm style. Black buttons replace the bronze.

Print ratioLogo DevelopmentFor the launch of the Dr Martens unisex range, their infamous logo has been transformed from AirWair to Share Wear and will be used on clothing, labels and as part of the marketing campaign.

58%Check

14%Abstract

28%Speckle

Khaki check holds the highest percentage at 58%. It is the most used due to the prints connotations of punk and skinhead fashion.

The dark speckled print is worth 28% and is used on outerwear and kilt.

Only one option uses the abstract print which takes up 14 %.

Price Architecture

High£180-250

Mid£70-90

Low£30-60

Colour Ratio

19%Red

19%Blue

19%White

5%Black

14%Khaki

24%Grey

Core colour of this range is grey which takes 24%. Grey is a neutral colour which balances out other prints and stronger colours of the collection.

Red, white and blue each take 19%, they are featured across all categories. They take an equal percentage so the range can appear balanced.

Khaki ratio is slightly less due to its darkness, to many options in this colour would make the range appear to dark.

Black only takes 5% colour ratio, again this is due to concerns that the range may appear too dark.

P 430c

P 7764c

P 1815c

Neutral Black

P 7694c

White

Sizing Ratio

Available sizes will be XS-XL, Medim will have the most popular size so have the largest orders on ratio’s.

Washing Line

Directional Fashion

Core

Outfit Builds

SALES PLAN

Online Sales Plan

Brand Name: DR MARTENS Concept C

Pages on Website 4

Forecasted number of hits 500,000

Conversion rate and transactions % 2% 10,000

Annual Turnover Plan £859,988

Seasonal Split : Autumn Winter: 55% £472,993

Spring summer 45% £386,994

Online Sales Plan

Department Sub category Product DescriptionProduct Colour

core / fashion Fabric

Country of Origin

Delivery Date Cost price

Original Retail Selling Price

Planned Margin

No stores

No weeks

in store Total Buy

Total Buy Units

Planned Rate Of

SaleTotal Buy at Cost

Total Buy at Retail

Mix of Buy %

OUTERWEAR CASUAL NORM UTILITY PARKA KHAKI CORE COTTON/POLYAMIDE TURKEY 01-Sep 64.50£ 180.00£ 57% 1 12 140 140 11.7 £9,030 £25,200 21%OUTERWEAR CASUAL NORM UTILITY PARKA BLUE CORE COTTON/POLYAMIDE TURKEY 01-Sep 64.50£ 180.00£ 57% 1 12 140 140 11.7 £9,030 £25,200 21%OUTERWEAR SMART NORM LONG BLAZER RED FASHION WOOL TURKEY 01-Sep 73.33£ 200.00£ 56% 1 12 118 118 9.8 £8,653 £23,600 19%OUTERWEAR SMART NORM LONG BLAZER BLACK FASHION WOOL TURKEY 01-Sep 73.33£ 200.00£ 56% 1 12 118 118 9.8 £8,653 £23,600 19%OUTERWEAR CASUAL NORM BIKER BLACK FASHION COW LEATHER PORTUGAL 01-Sep 93.75£ 250.00£ 55% 1 12 100 100 8.3 £9,375 £25,000 20%

Total 5 Category Total no. of options 5 72.63£ 199.03£ 56% 616 616 £44,742 £122,600 26%

KNITWEAR CASUAL NORM O/S JUMPER WHITE CORE WOOL/COTTON/NYLON TURKEY 01-Sep 26.00£ 80.00£ 61% 1 12 130 130 10.8 £3,380 £10,400 20%KNITWEAR CASUAL NORM O/S JUMPER GREY CORE WOOL/COTTON/NYLON TURKEY 01-Sep 26.00£ 80.00£ 61% 1 12 130 130 10.8 £3,380 £10,400 20%KNITWEAR CASUAL NORM SLOUCH JUMPER KHAKI FASHION WOOL/COTTON/NYLON TURKEY 01-Sep 28.33£ 85.00£ 60% 1 12 120 120 10.0 £3,400 £10,200 20%KNITWEAR CASUAL NORM SWEATER RED CORE WOOL/COTTON/NYLON TURKEY 01-Sep 25.33£ 80.00£ 62% 1 12 130 130 10.8 £3,293 £10,400 20%KNITWEAR CASUAL NORM SWEATER MULTI CORE WOOL/COTTON/NYLON TURKEY 01-Sep 25.33£ 80.00£ 62% 1 12 130 130 10.8 £3,293 £10,400 20%


JERSEY CASUAL NORM TEE RED CORE COTTON PORTUGAL 01-Sep 9.50£ 30.00£ 62% 1 12 475 475 39.6 £4,513 £14,250 12%JERSEY CASUAL NORM TEE WHITE CORE COTTON PORTUGAL 01-Sep 9.50£ 30.00£ 62% 1 12 550 550 45.8 £5,225 £16,500 14%JERSEY CASUAL NORM TEE BLUE CORE COTTON PORTUGAL 01-Sep 9.50£ 30.00£ 62% 1 12 500 500 41.7 £4,750 £15,000 13%JERSEY CASUAL NORM TEE KHAKI CORE COTTON PORTUGAL 01-Sep 9.50£ 30.00£ 62% 1 12 475 475 39.6 £4,513 £14,250 12%JERSEY CASUAL NORM TEE GREY CORE COTTON PORTUGAL 01-Sep 9.50£ 30.00£ 62% 1 12 550 550 45.8 £5,225 £16,500 14%JERSEY CASUAL NORM TEE BLACK CORE COTTON PORTUGAL 01-Sep 9.50£ 30.00£ 62% 1 12 550 550 45.8 £5,225 £16,500 14%JERSEY CASUAL NORM O/S HOODY BLACK CORE COTTON PORTUGAL 01-Sep 22.75£ 70.00£ 61% 1 12 180 180 15.0 £4,095 £12,600 11%JERSEY CASUAL NORM O/S HOODY GREY CORE COTTON PORTUGAL 01-Sep 22.75£ 70.00£ 61% 1 12 180 180 15.0 £4,095 £12,600 11%

Total 8 Category Total no. of options 8 10.88£ 34.16£ 62% 3460 3,460 £37,640 £118,200 25%

WOVEN TOPS SMART NORM O/S SHIRT BLUE CORE COTTON TURKEY 01-Sep 23.33£ 70.00£ 60% 1 12 185 185 15.4 £4,317 £12,950 25%WOVEN TOPS SMART NORM O/S SHIRT MULTI FASHION COTTON TURKEY 01-Sep 23.33£ 70.00£ 60% 1 12 185 185 15.4 £4,317 £12,950 25%WOVEN TOPS SMART NORM O/S SHIRT WHITE CORE COTTON TURKEY 01-Sep 22.75£ 70.00£ 61% 1 12 220 220 18.3 £5,005 £15,400 30%WOVEN TOPS SMART NORM DRAPE TOP WHITE FASHION COTTON PORTUGAL 01-Sep 20.50£ 60.00£ 59% 1 12 180 180 15.0 £3,690 £10,800 21%


SMART TROUSERS SMART NORM WRAP TROUSER GREY FASHION WOOL/POLYESTER PORTUGAL 01-Sep 33.75£ 90.00£ 55% 1 12 150 150 12.5 £5,063 £13,500 100%


SKIRTS SMART NORM KILT MULTI FASHION POLYESTER PORTUGAL 01-Sep 21.50£ 60.00£ 57% 1 12 150 150 12.5 £3,225 £9,000 50%SKIRTS SMART NORM KILT GREY FASHION POLYESTER PORTUGAL 01-Sep 21.50£ 60.00£ 57% 1 12 150 150 12.5 £3,225 £9,000 50%


DENIM CASUAL NORM STRAIGHT LEG BLUE CORE COTTON TURKEY 01-Sep 28.00£ 80.00£ 58% 1 12 350 350 29.2 £9,800 £28,000 40%DENIM CASUAL NORM STRAIGHT LEG MULTI CORE COTTON TURKEY 01-Sep 28.00£ 80.00£ 58% 1 12 350 350 29.2 £9,800 £28,000 156%DENIM CASUAL NORM DUNGAREE GREY FASHION COTTON TURKEY 01-Sep 32.25£ 90.00£ 57% 1 12 155 155 12.9 £4,999 £13,950 78%


CASUAL TROUSER CASUAL NORM HAREM RED FASHION TRIACETATE/POLYESTER TURKEY 01-Sep 23.92£ 70.00£ 59% 1 12 180 180 15.0 £4,305 £12,600 47%CASUAL TROUSER CASUAL NORM HAREM GREY FASHION TRIACETATE/POLYESTER TURKEY 01-Sep 23.92£ 70.00£ 59% 1 12 200 200 16.7 £4,783 £14,000 53%

Total 2 Category Total no. of options 2 23.91666667 70.00£ 59% 380 380 £9,088 £26,600 6%

Total Range 30 Total Range options 30 22.54£ 65.93£ 59% 1 26 7,171 7,171 £161,656 £472,750 100%

Product Details Buy Quantity and Spend

Online annual calculated using research into website (See research pack).

Margins were decided depending on category, quantity of orders and number of options for e.g. smart trousers has the smallest margin at 55% as there is only one option and small quantity order.

Annual turnover planned at £472,993 with overall margin 58.9%. (see research pack).

Pop Up Sales Plan

Store size in Square Metres 14

Store linear metres 10

Density £15,000

Annual Turnover Plan £210,000

Seasonal Split : Autumn Winter: 55% £115,500

spring summer 45% £94,500

Department/ CategoryPlanned Sales

TurnoverPlanned Unit Sales Planned ASP % Mix

OUTERWEAR £30,030 148 £203.04 26%

KNITWEAR £12,705 157 £81.06 11%

JERSEY £28,875 865 £33.40 25%

WOVEN TOPS £11,550 169 £68.18 10%

SMART TROUSERS £3,465 39 £90.00 3%

SKIRTS £4,620 77 £60.00 4%

DENIM £17,325 210 £82.31 15%

CASUAL TROUSERS £6,930 99 £70.00 6%

Total SS16 Range £115,500 1,764 £65.49 100%

Pop Up Sales Plan

Department Sub category Product DescriptionProduct Colour

core / fashion Fabric

Country of Origin

Delivery Date Cost price

Original Retail Selling Price

Planned Margin

No stores

No weeks

in store Total Buy

Total Buy Units

Planned Rate Of

SaleTotal Buy at Cost

Total Buy at Retail

Mix of Buy %

OUTERWEAR CASUAL NORM UTILITY PARKA KHAKI CORE COTTON/POLYAMIDE TURKEY 01-Sep 64.50£ 180.00£ 57% 1 4 35 35 8.8 £2,258 £6,300 20%OUTERWEAR CASUAL NORM UTILITY PARKA BLUE CORE COTTON/POLYAMIDE TURKEY 01-Sep 64.50£ 180.00£ 57% 1 4 35 35 8.8 £2,258 £6,300 20%OUTERWEAR SMART NORM LONG BLAZER RED FASHION WOOL TURKEY 01-Sep 73.33£ 200.00£ 56% 1 4 30 30 7.5 £2,200 £6,000 19%OUTERWEAR SMART NORM LONG BLAZER BLACK FASHION WOOL TURKEY 01-Sep 73.33£ 200.00£ 56% 1 4 30 30 7.5 £2,200 £6,000 19%OUTERWEAR CASUAL NORM BIKER BLACK FASHION COW LEATHER PORTUGAL 01-Sep 93.75£ 250.00£ 55% 1 4 25 25 6.3 £2,344 £6,250 20%


KNITWEAR CASUAL NORM O/S JUMPER WHITE CORE WOOL/COTTON/NYLON TURKEY 01-Sep 26.00£ 80.00£ 61% 1 4 30 30 7.5 £780 £2,400 20%KNITWEAR CASUAL NORM O/S JUMPER GREY CORE WOOL/COTTON/NYLON TURKEY 01-Sep 26.00£ 80.00£ 61% 1 4 30 30 7.5 £780 £2,400 20%KNITWEAR CASUAL NORM SLOUCH JUMPER KHAKI FASHION WOOL/COTTON/NYLON TURKEY 01-Sep 28.33£ 85.00£ 60% 1 4 30 30 7.5 £850 £2,550 21%KNITWEAR CASUAL NORM SWEATER RED CORE WOOL/COTTON/NYLON TURKEY 01-Sep 25.33£ 80.00£ 62% 1 4 30 30 7.5 £760 £2,400 20%KNITWEAR CASUAL NORM SWEATER MULTI CORE WOOL/COTTON/NYLON TURKEY 01-Sep 25.33£ 80.00£ 62% 1 4 30 30 7.5 £760 £2,400 20%


JERSEY CASUAL NORM TEE RED CORE COTTON PORTUGAL 01-Sep 9.50£ 30.00£ 62% 1 4 100 100 25.0 £950 £3,000 10%JERSEY CASUAL NORM TEE WHITE CORE COTTON PORTUGAL 01-Sep 9.50£ 30.00£ 62% 1 4 150 150 37.5 £1,425 £4,500 16%JERSEY CASUAL NORM TEE BLUE CORE COTTON PORTUGAL 01-Sep 9.50£ 30.00£ 62% 1 4 100 100 25.0 £950 £3,000 10%JERSEY CASUAL NORM TEE KHAKI CORE COTTON PORTUGAL 01-Sep 9.50£ 30.00£ 62% 1 4 100 100 25.0 £950 £3,000 10%JERSEY CASUAL NORM TEE GREY CORE COTTON PORTUGAL 01-Sep 9.50£ 30.00£ 62% 1 4 150 150 37.5 £1,425 £4,500 16%JERSEY CASUAL NORM TEE BLACK CORE COTTON PORTUGAL 01-Sep 9.50£ 30.00£ 62% 1 4 150 150 37.5 £1,425 £4,500 16%JERSEY CASUAL NORM O/S HOODY BLACK CORE COTTON PORTUGAL 01-Sep 22.75£ 70.00£ 61% 1 4 45 45 11.3 £1,024 £3,150 11%JERSEY CASUAL NORM O/S HOODY GREY CORE COTTON PORTUGAL 01-Sep 22.75£ 70.00£ 61% 1 4 45 45 11.3 £1,024 £3,150 11%


WOVEN TOPS SMART NORM O/S SHIRT BLUE CORE COTTON TURKEY 01-Sep 23.33£ 70.00£ 60% 1 4 40 40 10.0 £933 £2,800 24%WOVEN TOPS SMART NORM O/S SHIRT MULTI FASHION COTTON TURKEY 01-Sep 23.33£ 70.00£ 60% 1 4 40 40 10.0 £933 £2,800 24%WOVEN TOPS SMART NORM O/S SHIRT WHITE CORE COTTON TURKEY 01-Sep 22.75£ 70.00£ 61% 1 4 50 50 12.5 £1,138 £3,500 30%WOVEN TOPS SMART NORM DRAPE TOP WHITE FASHION COTTON TURKEY 01-Sep 20.50£ 60.00£ 59% 1 4 40 40 10.0 £820 £2,400 21%


SMART TROUSERS SMART NORM WRAP TROUSER GREY FASHION WOOL/POLYESTER PORTUGAL 01-Sep 33.75£ 90.00£ 55% 1 4 40 40 10.0 £1,350 £3,600 100%


SKIRTS SMART NORM KILT MULTI FASHION POLYESTER PORTUGAL 01-Sep 21.50£ 60.00£ 57% 1 4 35 35 8.8 £753 £2,100 50%SKIRTS SMART NORM KILT GREY FASHION POLYESTER PORTUGAL 01-Sep 21.50£ 60.00£ 57% 1 4 35 35 8.8 £753 £2,100 50%


DENIM CASUAL NORM STRAIGHT LEG BLUE CORE COTTON TURKEY 01-Sep 28.00£ 80.00£ 58% 1 4 80 80 20.0 £2,240 £6,400 37%DENIM CASUAL NORM STRAIGHT LEG MULTI CORE COTTON TURKEY 01-Sep 28.00£ 80.00£ 58% 1 4 80 80 20.0 £2,240 £6,400 152%DENIM CASUAL NORM DUNGAREE GREY FASHION COTTON TURKEY 01-Sep 32.25£ 90.00£ 57% 1 4 50 50 12.5 £1,613 £4,500 107%


CASUAL TROUSER CASUAL NORM HAREM RED FASHION TRIACETATE/POLYESTER TURKEY 01-Sep 23.92£ 70.00£ 59% 1 4 50 50 12.5 £1,196 £3,500 49%CASUAL TROUSER CASUAL NORM HAREM GREY FASHION TRIACETATE/POLYESTER TURKEY 01-Sep 23.92£ 70.00£ 59% 1 4 52 52 13.0 £1,244 £3,640 51%

Total 2 Category Total no. of options 2 23.91666667 70.00£ 59% 102 102 £2,440 £7,140 6%

Total Range 30 Total Range options 30 22.78£ 66.52£ 59% 1 26 1,737 1,737 £39,572 £115,540 100%

Product Details Buy Quantity and Spend

Pop up store quantities will be smaller than online due to only being sold for four weeks.

Annual turnover at £115,000 with average margin at 59%.

Mixes have been given depending on the number of options in each department. (see research pack)

SOURCING

Sourcing CountriesTURKEY

PORTUGAL

Sourcing

Supplier - Direct

KPI’s In Order Of Importance

• Quality• Design/ Service Capability• Communication• Minimums• On time delivery• Price• Compliance with codes of conducts/

ethical stance• Lead time

The two chosen countries that Dr Martens will be sourcing ‘Normbiguous’ from are Turkey and Portugal.Both these countries are suitable for Dr Martens already established sourcing strategy.

Both countries have a short lead time process of 8/10 weeks.

The five options above are from the ‘Normbiguous’ range and the next few pages will document their sourcing strategy.

The direct supply route strategy would be the most suitable for Dr Martens compared to other strategies such as agent, wholesalers or hubs due to the reasons below;

• Going direct means any design issues that arise can be dealt with directly in order to get Dr Marten’s desired outcome.

• A good price, no extra expense • Visit’s to the factories to ensure good quality• Launching what will be a well-publicised unisex range, Dr

Martens would want to ensure control over the outcome of ‘Normbiguous’

• Compared to other retailers, Dr Martens will be ordering comparatively smaller quantity orders, therefore this could be manageable for their company

• Dr Martens have the best knowledge of their own brand and needs

Why Portugal?Pro’s

• Countries in Southwestern Europe mean a short lead time delivery

• Easy to get to for factory visits • Comp shop shows most of Dr Martens clothing is

sourced from Portugal • Good relationship already built• Known for specialising in leather goods• Offers comparatively lower prices than other

known leather specialist countries such as France and Italy

• Suitable for smaller quantity orders • ‘Made in Portugal’ slogan is gaining momentum• No time difference ensuring easy communication(see research pack)

Con’s

• Past drops in industrial production show the Portugal may not be a reliable source

• High labour costs• Religious holidays• Higher cost of materials • Language barriers• Regular forest fires(see research pack)

The above options will be sourced from Portugal due to their leather and cotton compositions.-

Freight and duty uplift for imports from Portugal are 2%

Why Turkey?Pros

• Country located between Eastern Europe and Western Asia

• A well know manufacturer of Denim and cotton as well as polyester products

• Turkeys success as a manufacturing country can be attributed to its relatively low costs and the high quality of raw cotton

• Short lead time of 8 weeks• Can transport goods via land, sea and air• Known for quality production in comparison to countries

such as China, Bangladesh etc.(see research pack)

Cons

• Crisis in Syria and recent terroist attacks could be detrimental to sourcing process

• Could also affect visiting factories for Dr Martens

• Religious public holidays such as Ramadan and Feast of sacrifice means factories will be shut during this time

• Wages in manufacturing are rising faster than inflation, increasing labour costs

• Influx of refugees putting a strain on transport • Language barriers• Two hour time difference(see research pack)

The above three options will be sourced from Turkey due to the denim, cotton and polyester compositions

Freight and duty uplift for imports from Turkey are 5%

Critical Path

Line Detail

Logistics

Packaging

Options in terms of transporting the ‘Normbiguous’ range include road, sea or air. From these three options the most suitable, time effective and cheapest way of transporting goods from Turkey and Portugal would be road freight. The advantage of sourcing from Europe means a short lead time delivery of 8/10 days. There is also the option of using two drivers to speed up delivery although this would be more expensive

Consideration must be given to how the product will packaged so it arrives in the best possible condition.

The ‘Normbiguous’ range is suitable to flat pack into poly bags and transport in cardboard boxes. If the range included any embellishment and creaseable fabrics then hanging the garments could be considered.

Extra care will be given to more expensive options such as the biker jacket. This will be wrapped in tissue paper within the polybag to avoid damaging the expensive leather material.

Repeat OrdersDue to short lead times, opportunity to trial product and gauge reactions.

Although ‘Normbiguous’ is the first full range of unisex clothing for Dr Martens, depending on its success there is an opportunity for continuation such as restocking some of the core product. For example, ‘The Norm Tee’ could be produced in different colours suiting a S/S 18 collection.

Advantages for this is that an already established relationship between Dr Martens and supplier will exist. The supplier will also have expert knowledge in the garment and outcome that Dr Martens is aiming for.

AW 17 Range SS 18 Range

BUYERS PACK

U

Graded Spec

Fit Comments

A

B

C

D

E

F

Open CostingTesting and Wash Care Colour Fastness Tests

Dimensional Stability, Appearance and Physical Tests

Wash Care Submission

An open costing o the biker including materials, composition, packaging and shipment.(see research pack)

To ensure a higher quality garment intensive testing and a washcare summary must be conducted.

As this garment is real leather there will be specific testing required in order to guarantee a long lasting product.

A wash care summary must also be processed, in this case the garment must be cleaned by a specialist, do not machine washashable, do not iron, do not bleach and do not tumble dry.

This will be stated on the garments care lable to ensure customer after care.

Labels Packaging

Each ‘Normbiguous’ option will have a cardboard label which will include the logo and web address on the front. On reverse side will be the item name and sku, barcode, country of origin and price.

This is attached to a sewn inside label which will included the logo and size.

There will also be a care label which shows logo, fabric composition, country of origin and wash care instructions. This will be place on left hand side seam.

The ‘Norm Biker’ will also have a 100% real leather attached to the price label

Dr Martens already use canvas shopping bags and with the launch of ‘Normbiguous’ there will also be new reusable shopper bag which customers will receive when purchasing any item from the pop up shop.

This will include the logo and trend name.

As the bag is reusable it is also a great form of advertisement when customers are carrying them.

When ordering online packages, they will arrive in strong black paper packaging suitable for recycling to comply with Dr Martens environmental stance. This will be secured by white sticker and share wear logo

MARKETING

Constraints SummaryThe range will have high customer expectation of quality and fit based on the price points and Dr Martens already established brand model.Therefore, an in depth product process must be in place to ensure this quality.

From this first production sample some adjustments will need to be made before final production can be approved.

Tech Spec and Fit SessionSlight adjustments of measurements to ensure good fit for both genders.From a buying side losing some trims and add on’s such as the belt to reduce prices and improvement on appearance.

TestingIn depth testing processes to ensure quality, durability and high standard of the leather material.

Wash CareSubmission from testing so to advise on best care of product.

Open CostingMust be accurate and equal to landed cost price.

PackagingJackets will be wrapped in tissue and flat packed in plastic poly bags to ensure quality of product is kept.

LabellingEnsuring correct labelling showing price, size, composition, washcare and country of origin.

Online

‘Normbiguous’ will be launched on the UK website 8th September 2017, the range will be available to buy for 12 weeks.

It will feature ‘Normbiguous’ mood board on the opening page which you can click on to access the range.

The website will also feature a unisex department click on.

Press LaunchPop Up

The Dr Martens ‘Normbiguous’ pop up store will run for four weeks at East London’s ‘cool/trendy’ location, Shoreditch’s Boxpark. The pop up will open on 8th September 2017.

Boxpark places local and global brands side by side which creates a unique shopping experience. It also holds food and music events.

This is the perfect place for Dr Martens pop up store as it will target their main customer base.

Social Media

To mark the launch of ‘Normbiguous’ there will be a launch party the night before opening.

It will be held within the pop up at Boxpark giving the guests opportunities to buy and try the range.

Famous guests and well known DM wearers such as Alexa Chung and Robert Pattinson will be seen at the party.Fashion insiders will also be on the guest list.

Magazines such as Vogue, ID, NME and bloggers/vloggers will be invited to maximise on marketing and publicity opportunities.

Social media will be used to build hype around the launch of the collection.

Dr Martens Instagram page will show sneak peeks of the collection and campaign a few weeks before the launch.

Dr Martens Facebook page will also feature a coming soon section for ‘Normbiguous’.

The use of social media campaigning will attract bloggers and vloggers to react and create more publicity as well as enticing Dr Martens already loyal customer base.

Evaluation

The concept of a full unisex range for Dr Martens is a step forward for the brand. As interest rises for ungendered clothing and ideology, now is the perfect time to launch a unisex range, Dr Martens is the perfect platform for this due to their individual and unconventional style that sets them apart from their competitors.

From concept to launch there have been changes made to ensure a profitable and commercial range and to keep the target customer in mind.

The original idea was an extension of Dr Martens womens clothing, however whilst researching it became clear that there is no clear divide in how men and women wear their ‘DM’s’This and the recent publicity surrounding gender neutral clothing meant this concept could be an exciting prospect for the Dr Martens Brand.

Although whilst researching recent unisex ranges there was concern that Zara’s launch had not been a succes, however this meant the ‘Normbiguous’ range could learn from their mistakes made and create a more interesting and marketable collection.

The range was planned to be a mix of trend/fashion pieces with classic styles and some new shapes planned to be paired with Dr Martens footwear.

When designing the range thought was given to the shapes and colours used, whether they would be suitable for both men and women.

When considering department categories, the aim was to have a balanced range. Core pieces such as the tees can continue to be sold throughout the year.Also directional options like the wrap trouser to create interest.

The early concept was to launch the range within stores, however after visiting three Dr Martens stores its clear there would not be enough linear space for this to be realistic.

A pop up shop launch and online range just for the UK is more commercially viable as this is the first Dr Martens unisex range. If the range was successful, the brand could also consider launching future collections within store.

Price points were also changed throughout, originally based on All Saints price architecture this appeared to be too high for Dr Martens customer. They were lowered in order to become more accessible for the Dr Martens customer.

Future aspirations for the range would be to go internationally selling in the US, Europe and Hong Kong.Also a celebrity collaboration with Jaden Smith as he is a true advocator of both gender neutral dressing and Dr Martens. He is also very well known in the US so the campaign would work well when launching internationally.

Overall, through extensive and well researched development the final ‘Normbiguous’ range combines a mix of subculture references with a modern twist well suited for the Dr Martens target customer.

With this concept, Dr Martens could be at the forefront of an exciting new movement about to happen in fashion and the high street.

APPENDIX

Timeline of Dr Martens - Icon and Subcultures

1960’s -Rockers

1970’s - Punks

1980’s - Skinheads

1990’s - Grunge

2000’s - Indie

1901-Tradition and Authenticity

1945- Born from Innovation

2010’s - Now

1901 - The Griggs family were known for making boots in Wollaston, Northamptonshire. They were at the heart of the English shoe industry and after six decades earned Griggs footwear earned a reputation as sturdy, durable work boots.

1945 - German army doctor Dr Klaus Martens created a unique air cushioned sole after breaking his foot and finding the traditional hard leather sole to uncomfortable.Teaming up with university friend Dr Herbert Funk, they began producing in 1947 and after their success advertised overseas when it was then sold to Griggs footwear firm.

1960 - The First Dr Marten boot produced in UK in1960 known at 1460 which is still produced now.

Dr Martens were worn by skinheads of the late 1960’s, this was the start of the boots being adopted as the uniform of youth subcultures.

1970s - Punks began wearing Dr Martens as a rebellion against the hippie movement but also as a fierce symbol of self-expression.

Teamed with studded leather biker jackets, safety pins and Mohicans, Dr Martens became the perfect accessory for the punk movement fashion.

1980s - Dr Martens are arguably most associated with the skinhead subculture.

Worn by both men and women and teamed with straight leg jeans, denim jackets, parkers, bomber and polo shirts created the skinhead look.

1990s - The grunge movement in the 1990’s saw a resurgence in popularity with Dr Martens. Again the boot was adopted as a style staple and accessory for another subculture.

2000’s - the late noughties saw indie music and culture becoming popular again, Dr Martens were adopted by young indie guitar bands creating the ‘hipster’ look.

Now - Dr Martens are no longer only associated with subcultures and have become commercially successful with many celebrities seen sporting them. Celebs such as Emma Watson, Amber Rose, Whitney Port and Miley Cyrus have all been seen wearing the iconic footwear.

Comp Shop- DR MARTENS- Store

• Dr Marten stores visited to gauge their clothing range priority

• London stores Convent Garden, Westfield Stratford and Carnaby Street offering a small rail of t-shirts.

• All priced at £30 and sourced from Portugal • Clothing locked up and no available fitting rooms to try

them on. • Outlet Dr Marten store in Portsmouth’s Gunwharf had a

wider range of clothing • Clothing range featured checks and black worker jackets • Was not gender neutral or particularly trend driven• Price ranges from full price at £150 to sale price £30.

COMP SHOPS

Comp Shop- Unisex

• Well known and popular unisex clothing range Boy London

• Founded in 1976• Online fashion brand although sold

in Selfridges• Beloved by underground and

alternative scene but had recent commercial success

• Offers sport style clothing• Categories tops, bottoms and

accessories• Price ranges from lowest £30 for

t-shirt/short • Highest £165 for jackets• Simple styles but always referring to

the logo• Composition mostly cotton jersey• Unisex sizing measures

Comp shop- DR MARTENS- Online

• Dr Marten website offer a very limited range of clothing• Only ten items which is made up of t-shirts.• Featured on both men and women’s clothing pages. This

means Dr Martens already adopt the gender neutral/unisex ideal

• Designs are simple with no clear trend focus or direction.• Mainly cotton jersey compositions• Sourced from Portugal. • Price ranges from £30-£40 for T-shirts• £70 for knitwear• Room to be fully adapted into a commercial range which

appeals to both men and women

Comp shop- All Saints

• Dr Martens unisex clothing range will target a similar customer base to All Saints

• Offers cool and trend setting options along with iconic biker jackets

• Known for quality clothing and compositions at higher than average high street price point

• Sources from a wide range of countries such as India, China, Turkey, Hong Kong and Portugal

• Luxurious and expensive materials such as cow leather, wool and triacetate used

• Price ranges from £19 for a t-shirt to £320 for a leather jacket

Comp Shop- Unisex

• Zara launched unisex clothing range March 2016• First leading high street store to release unisex

clothing range• 16-piece collection• Featured jeans, shorts, sweatshirts and t-shirts• Neutral colours grey, white and black• Range modelled by men and women• Price range from £9.99 to £29.99• Available within stores and online• Stocked in 29 Zara stores across the UK• Although celebrated for being one of the first

high street retailers to launch a gender neutral range it also received critiscm how progressive the collection appeared after just featuring shapeless basic jersey with no skirt or dress options

• The range was not as successful as hoped with most styles being reduced to half price after a short amount of time

Marketing P’sProduct• ‘Normbiguous’ aim is providing wearable clothing for

both genders• Succeed where other retailers have failed in providing

an exciting unisex range• A mix of fashion conscious/directional garments with

strong references of Dr Martens heritage and past fashions

• Strong focus on outfit building and pairing with Dr Martens shoes

• Good quality clothing to tie in with an already established brand model

• Mix of core and directional pieces• Quantity orders have been considered when stocking a

pop up shop and online only• Range targeting customer profile• Size XS/Xl

Price

• Price ranges from £30/£250• Prices based on comp shop of Dr Martens and All Saints • Average margin of 60% which ties in with Dr Martens

average margin• Higher prices based on composition eg. leather biker at

highest of £250

Promotion• Launch party packed with celebs, fashion insiders,

bloggers and vloggers• Heavy use of social media with Instagram and Facebook

pages both promoting ‘Coming soon’ weeks before ‘Normbiguous’ launch

• Facebook page has 1551047 likes• Instagram 1 million• Twitter account linked to Instagram and Facebook pages,

with 153k followers• Email alerts to existing Dr Martens customers informing

them of date of launch

Place• Available online, Dr Martens website has over 1.3 million

visits within six months• Dedicated German, French and Dutch website• Standard delivery costs at £3.95 but free over £50

purchase order.• Optional next day/Saturday delivery at a higher price• Pop up store selling ‘Normbiguous’ based in London’s

trendy Shoreditch area• Shoreditch attracts target customer for Dr Martens as

well as a great setting for the celebrity packed launch night

• All range sourced from Turkey and Portugal

Pest- Dr Martens Political• There was controversy when the family owned Griggs

company sold to private equity firm Perima for several hundred million pounds

• Associated with politically motivated and anti-establishment sub cultures such as Punks and Skinheads

• Recent ‘Stand for Something’ campaign celebrated diversity, creativity and free thinking

• Controversy over the use of real leather • Website states Perima Advisors was a member of the

World Economic Forum, this is considered by the ECRA to be a high level corporate group which exerts undue corporate influence to the detriment of the environment and human animal rights

• Recent Brexit leaves political uncertainty for England and the British high street

Economical• Company nearly became bankrupt in early 2000’s, all

but one of the UKs factories had to close• After near bankruptcy in 2003 the brand revitalisation

began with high fashion designers re-interpreting and customising the 1460 boot giving a much needed boost to the company’s financial crisis

• After the Brexit the pound’s value has now dropped affecting the whole high street

• Recent big name retailers such as BHS and Austin Reed have gone into administration spelling uncertainty for all British high street

Social• The Brexit may affect shopping habits as customers could

be too cautious to spend• Shoppers are used to fast and cheap fashion• Rising interest in vegan friendly footwear• Expectations of high quality for a lower price• With the near bankruptcy in the early 2000’ s Dr Martens

had to make over 1000 people unemployed• Time over money, people are too busy and prefer to shop

online• Well known celebrities such as Agyness Deyn, Alexa

Chung, Jaden Smith and Lily Rose Depp seen wearing Dr Martens have a strong influence on shoppers buying habits

• Website claims the brand has a strong ethical and environmental stance

Technological• Do not offer click and collect although other brands in

which they are sild do such as John Lewis and Office• Social media sites can have a huge impact on sales, Dr

Martens have room to improve on this• Also bloggers and vloggers can influence customer

buying habits• The rise of ‘Pokémon Go’ see’s companies paying for

their stores to become ‘Pokémon Stop’s’ • Sourcing from other countries due to higher

technological machinery which produces garments at a higher speed (see research pack).

Swot Analysis

Strengths• Well established shoe retailer • First launched in the UK in 1960• Mass celebrity appeal• Past celebrity collaborations e.g. Agyness Deyn• Provides men, women and children departments• Strong customer loyalty • Appeals to a wide range of customers• Free deliveries on orders over £50• Next day and Saturday deliveries available• Clear and easy to follow website• Atmospheric shopping environment• Strong visual campaigns targeting customer base• Good use of social media sites such as Facebook,

Instagram and Twitter• Maximises on brands strengths e.g. comfort and durable

air sole shoes • Strong focus on ethical trade• Heavy use of slogan and hashtags e.g. Stand for

Something campaign• Strong environmental conscience producing products

that are built to last• Supports charities such as the Joe Strummer foundation

which promotes social mobility through music, proceeds from all carrier bags sold within store go towards this cause

• Brand has cultural and historical significance

• Some products still made in the UK staying true to heritage

• Statement of individuality through their products• Clear association with music, Dr Martens has sponsored

a number of leading music festivals around the world such as Reading and Glastonbury

• Good customer service with stylish/individual sales associates spreading Dr Martens brand image

• Wide range of shoes and accessories being sold• 10% student discount is available when registered with

Unidays• Sold within other shoe retailers such as Office and

Schuh reaching a wider audience

Weaknesses• Small clothing range within stores and online• No fitting rooms to try on the clothes that are in stores• Could be seen as playing safe with the styles and

ranges being sold (not much development)• Were behind competitors when sourcing from outside

UK• Have been close to bankruptcy in 2000’s• Have had bad associations with skinhead violence and

football hooligans• Has recently come under new management by Permira

who also handles New Look and Hugo Boss this could cause upset with less brand knowledge than founder Griggs, although recent sales have seen an improvement

• No models displaying products on website

Oppurtunites• Extend clothing range which could be sold within stores

create outfit builds and add on buys to customer’s shoes purchases

• Have available fitting rooms• Keep ahead of their online competition such as ASOS

and Zalando with improvements to website, could have better photography and models shown wearing products

• Seek out new countries to source from to achieve better margins

• Maximise on celebrity fan base with possible future collaborations with celebs such as Alexa Chung, Lily Rose Depp or Jaden Smith

• Maximise on their already unisex appeal with a range and website section dedicated to this

• More publicity used through the website to gain more followers and more visits to website

Threats• Branching more into clothing against more established

clothing ranges• Unpredictable weather has affected all high street

retailers• Other retailers using stronger promotions and marketing

ploys to gain mass publicity• Retailers such as Primark offering cheaper alternatives• Established clothing brands also offering wide range of

footwear departments (New Look are high street leaders for footwear)

• Recent Brexit (June 2016) spells an unpredictable future for the British high street with the value of the pound dropping and importing goods from Europe may become more expensive

• Challenging European economy and exchange rates• European retail companies such Zara, Mango and Bershka

proving strong competition within the British high street (Zara leading in terms of profit)

• Not as trend driven as competition such as Topshop (see research pack).

• Small number of stores compared to other high street retailers

• Not as affordable as other competitors• Small number of social media followers compared to

high street retailer’s competition• Although loyal not a wide customer base• Some customers may be opposed to buying leather

products in which Dr Martens sales

Pestel - Turkey

Political• 2016 saw Turkish President urge every

company to hire one unemployed person • International ‘Modest Fashion Week’

opened in Istanbul• Recent terrorist attacks across the country

has affected tourism and possible sourcing opportunities

• Fallout from the Syrian war has left Turkey and the rest of Europe with an influx of refugees

Economical• Over the past 5 years Turkish Lira (TRY) has

deprecated significantly against the GBP, making Turkish exports cheaper from a currency perspective

• However, this could change due to the Brexit’s effect on the value of the British pound

• Manufacturing outputs are growing and the economy is also growing overall, though at a slower rate

• Wages in manufacturing are rising faster than inflation, increasing labour costs

•

Social• Median population age is 30.2 years assuring

a youthful workforce• 95% of population is registered as Muslim and

recognised public holidays such as Ramadan and Feast of Sacrifice means factories and their workforce will be unavailable for a significant amount of time

• Influx of refugees is putting a strain on public transport making it harder for workers to commute to work

• Unemployment rate declined to 10.6% in February 2016 from 11.2% as employment increased in services and construction

Technological• Specialises in jersey and denim

manufacturing sides of garments• Choice of transporting goods, sea, air and

road• Short lead time delivery of 6/8 weeks• More capability on product design and

technical developments means Turkey are more advanced in producing higher quality garments compared to countries with high volume orders such as China

Enviromental• Earthquakes are a regular occurrence, on

May 24th 2014 there was an earthquake that equated to a magnitude of 6.9

• A highly ranked natural source resource bank due to rich soil, warm climates and abundant rainfall

• 10th biggest producer of cotton in the world• Production levels have increased more

rapidly than the advancement of waste and water treatment facilities, this needs to be managed to control pollution levels

• Ankara in Turkey is renowned for its angora rabbits and goat furs

Legislation• New trade law introduced 14th January 2015• Addressed incorporation and activities of retail

businesses • New electronic information system (PERBIS) will

be introduced into within the Turkish Ministry of Customs and Trade

• Packaging and Packaging waste control regulations came into force January 2005, this was to reduce the amount of packaging waste going to landfill sites (see research pack)

Pestel - Portugal

Political• March 2016 saw new centre right

president introduced after increasing pressure from the EU to rein in spending to meet budget goals

• At the beginning of 2016 600,000 civil servants strike as schools, courts and medical services were badly hit due to the protest against working week hours going from 35 to 40

• Portuguese culture minister resigns after threatening to slap two journalists

Economical• Moderate growth is predicted for

2016 and 2017• Private consumption predicted

to strengthen mildy due to lower unemployment, higher minimum wage and reversals of public sector pay cuts

• As the euro crisis battered Portugal, BPI also suffered

Social• Unemployment rate increased to

12.2% in last quarter of 2015• Median age is 41.1 years• Average wage increased in 2014 to

1114 euro• Most predominant religion in

Portugal is Roman Catholicism, due to 2011 census 81% of the population is catholic although only about 19% attend Mass

Technological• Specialists of leather manufacturing • Choice of transporting goods, sea, air

and road• Short lead time delivery of 6/8 weeks• Much like Turkey, Portugal have

more capability on product design and technical developments which means Portugal are more advanced in producing higher quality products

Enviromental• Forest fires are a regular

occurrence• Introduction of Environment and

Climate change law 2016 • Over the last two decades there

has been significant developments in environmental protection and quality of life improvement.

• Currently developing a commitment for Green Growth which aims to decouple economic growth from resource use

Legislation• Employment and Labour law 2016

sets forth a number of fundamental rights and principles regarding both employee and employers

• This law also states all contracts of employment must be in writing

• The Employment Law newsletter 2016 establishes an increment in social benefits for maternity, paternity and adoptions for residents (see research pack).

Seasonal Review

• Recent ‘Stand for Something’ campaign has gained publicity with strong marketing, July saw Dr Martens hosting Roundhouse Punk Weekender which featured emerging artists. They also had their own photo booth van on site.

• A partnership with Nickelodeon saw Dr Martens produce a range of Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles inspired shoes for men, women and children. This was publicised heavily and shown in window displays

• As of July Dr Martens launched their summer sale with up to 30% off whilst stock lasts, the timing of this tied in with highest street retailers summer sales

• Unpredictable weather has seen high street sales suffer because of this summer sale have been brought forward

• The introduction of payment for plastic shopping bags has seen high street stores producing their own canvas bags. For example Tesco collaborated with Julian McDonald to produce their own. This creates huge advertisement opportunities for companies as shoppers will continually use these bag

• Brexit may affect customer spending habits with uncertainty of the future. As Britain are no longer a part of the EU it may also affect what countries retailers choose to source from depending on duty and uplift factor, retailers now must be planning ahead

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BYSARA CHRISTIE

INP FINAL- Sara Christie- Level 4 FT Buying and Merchandising

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