Industrial attachment of naz bangladesh ltd

SOUTHEAST UNIVERSITYDepartment of Textile Engineering

INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENTN. A. Z Bangladesh Ltd

AcknowledgementA number of people have made significant contributions in preparing this report.Their insights, advice and suggestions helped me a lot. I would like to pay specialthanks to Prof. Syed Fakhrul Hassan, C-Text. ATI, the Head of the departmentof Textile Engineering, Southeast University, for continuously guiding us about thedevelopment and preparation of the report. He has enriched us with necessary ideasand concepts for incessant improvement of the report.I would also like to expressour heartfelt thanks to Md. Fazley Elahi, Assistant Professor, Department of TextileEngineering, Southeast University for all necessary information for preparing this report.

I would like to express our sincere gratitude to Mr. Monju, General Manager, N.A. Z Bangladesh Ltd, who has allowed us to work in his organization within acongenial atmosphere during the industrial training period.

I recognize Mr. Nipu, Manager (Dyeing) and Md. Shifon AGM (knitting) N. A. ZBangladesh Ltd. for providing sincere help in all administrative and technical matterswhile working in the organization.

I express my heartiest thanks to Deputy Manager & Assistant Manager, Knitting,Dyeing & Fishing, Garment and Accessories for enriching our knowledge on variousfabric manufacturing and finishing processes with their excellent professionalknowledge.

My sincere appreciation goes to the entire N. A. Z Bangladesh Ltd. team forextending their hands of cooperation through out the training period.

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Name:N. A. Z Bangladesh Ltd.

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1 CHAPTER : PROJECT DESCRIPTION

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1.1. Introduction:

Every one knows that learning is the best part of thinking possibility. In human lifeeducation is the primary source of learning process. We need to learn for particular pointsof theoretical parts it should be some lack of looking this function such a fabric making ona circular machine and dyeing and finishing process in practical. It should be looking andknows about the functions, running of this machine, Uses material, and manufacturingmaterials. It must be need for good practical knowledge and proper handling of themachine.

Internship is making this opportunity. Because we have known theoretical knowledge butwe have lack of industrial knowledge. It has to fill up for industrial attachment. N.A.ZBangladesh Ltd. has getting this opportunity for me.

NAZ Bangladesh Ltd is a knit composite industry. It is a 100% export oriented industry inBangladesh. The factory is making about knitting, knit dyeing & finishing and knitgarments. Due to the change in environment, the textile sector is facing a great challenge.But NAZ BD Ltd fully prepared to face this situation. The goal of NAZ BD Ltd is tobecome the preferred partner for sourcing high quality fabrics and clothing fromBangladesh. N.A.Z has highly develop advanced technology and an emphasis ondeveloping local human resources, the Textile Division has the potential to make animportant contribution to the nation's growing ready made garments export sector.

The rational behind the existing structure and future expansion of the Textile & fiberDivision is to capture value-added at each stage of the textile manufacturing process.Despite Bangladesh's lack of indigenous cotton production capability, N.A.Z. hasleveraged Bangladesh's labor cost advantage and export competitiveness to the maximum.

This factory is fully complained and very much concern about the labor law andcompliance. This factory also concerned about environmental issue as they have wellestablished Effluent Treatment Plant (ETP). In NAZ Bangladesh Ltd., I have completed 2months (8 weeks) long industrial training in knitting, dyeing, finishing and garments.During the training period we faced a lot of technical problem, which we solve byconsulting with the related persons. Whatever knowledge we have gain during my trainingperiod, it will help us to build up our career as a Textile Technologist.

Project Description

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1.2. Layout of N.A.Z Bangladesh Ltd.

ANSER CAMP

Gat

e

Dormitory

POND

Fabric storeACCESSORIESUNITE

ETP

POND

CH

EMIff

CfA

LST

OR

E

UNDERCONSTRUCTION

3 STD OFFICE ANDGARMENTS

Prin

ting

KNITTINGSECTION Utility Building

Chemicalstore

WORKSHOP

GA

TE

N E

SW

Project Profile

Industrial Training 3 | P a g e

1.3.Project Profile

Type : 100% Export Oriented Composite Knit Industry.

Legal Form of Company : Private Limited Company.

Year of Incorporation : 1987

Commencement of Operations : 1987

Project cost : 250 crore

Name of the Bank : Exim Bank

Company name N. A. Z. BANGLADESH LIMITED.

Head Office House #21 , Road # 13, Baridhara, Gulshan, Dhaka-1212

Tel No 880-2-9861831, 9860445, 8854101 Extn: 128 / 156

Fax 880-2-9889078

E-mail [email protected], [email protected]; [email protected];

URL www.nazbd.com

Factory 5, Bishuya Kuribari Bari, Mirzapur, Rajendrapur, Gazipur-1700

Tel No 880-2-9289054-6

Fax No 880-2-9289053

Location45~50 minutes drive from HSJI Airport to towards North(Mymansingh)

Contacted persons

Mr. Nasir Uddin Ahmed (Managing Director)

Contact Phone :+88 01711 814 912

Mr. Salauddin Jakir (Merchandising Manger)

Contact Phone: +8801714302133

Mr. Shamim Khan ( Sr. Merchandiser – Marketing &Merchandising )

Contact Phone: +88 01711 465 336

Project Profile


Main Production : T-Shirt, Polo Shirt, Tank tock, Jacket, Trousers,

Bottoms, etc. and all kinds of Knit fabric & garments.

Factory space : 9, 07,200 sq.ft.

Total Employees : 3350 persons

No. Of employees : 350 persons

No. Of workers : 3000 persons

Working Period : 3 (Three) Shift Per Day

Production Capacity

Knitting : 20 Tons/Day

Dyeing & Finishing : 16 Tons/Day

Garments : 55,000 Pcs/Day

PC Printing : 25,000 Pcs/ Day

Embroidery : 50,000,000 Stitches/Day

Garments Wash : 25000 Pcs/Day

1.4.Yearly Turn Over

Serial No Year Turn Over (Per Year)01 1996 US $ 7.02 Million02 1997 US $ 8.20 Million03 1998 US $ 9.65 Million04 1999 US $ 10.56 Million05 2000 US $ 12.76 Million06 2001 US $ 15.86 Million07 2002 US $ 17.65 Million08 2003 US $ 20.00 Million9 2004 US $ 22.00 Million10 2005 US $ 25.00 Million11 2006 US $ 25.00 Million12 2007 US $ 26.00 Million13 2008 US $ 28.00 Million

Project Profile


1.5.Different Dipertment:

Different sections of N.A.Z. Bangladesh Ltd.

A. Knit section

Knitting Inspection

B. Dyeing section

Batch section Dye house Dyeing lab Quality control Finishing

C. Garments section

Merchandising Sample Cutting section Sewing section Finishing section

D. Sewing Thread DyeingE. Printing UnitF. Embroidery UnitG. Accessories UnitH. Maintenance section

Electrical Mechanical

I. Utility: Electricity Gas Water Boiler ETP

J. Store section

K. Administration section

L. Security section

M. Marketing section

N. Production planning &control

O. Human Resource & Development

section

Differentsections

Project Profile


Supporting Department

Personnel AdministrationProcurementMarketingHRDFinance & AccountingMIS (Management Information System)Work StudyComplience & Safety

Companies of N.A.Z. Group

N.A.Z. Bangladesh Ltd.

N.A.Z. Bangladesh Ltd. (Accessories Unit)

CA Knitwear Ltd.

Needle Touch Garments Ltd.

Certifications:

ISO

Oeko Tex-100

Main Buyers of N.A.Z. Bangladesh LTD:

SL BUYER COUNTRY

01 TARGET USA

02 TESCO UK

03 H&M SWEDEN

04 WAL MART USA, CANADA, MEXICO

05 PUNTORAMA SPAIN

06 TRR ITALY

Project Profile


1.6.History of the project development

After successful operation in N.A.Z. Group, the owner had decided to start a fully

information & technology based along with the social accountability and quality controlled

modern readymade composite knit garments industry in large scale. It is situated at 5,

Bishuya Kuribari, Mirzapur, Gazipur-1700, Bangladesh. In the year 1987 to manufacture

knitwear garments for the international market. Right from inception the policy of the

company has been to provide total customer satisfaction by offering quality knitwear in time.

To meet the commitments of quality and prompt delivery, N.A.Z. Group Decided to

integrate the manufacturing process in a planned manner. Over the years the entire process

has been integrated by importing sophisticated machinery from world-renowned

manufacturers.

1.7.Vision & mission of the project:

The mission and vision of N.A.Z. Group is to manufacture and deliver high quality

readymade garments (RMG) to its customers. The core objective is to attain and enhance

customer satisfaction by providing on time delivery of desired quality readymade garments

and also to increase efficiency of workforce.

To attain these objectives, the management of N.A.Z. Group has decided to adopt the

following-

To increase awareness regarding customers requirements throughout the

organization.

By providing training to develop efficiency of the employee.

To collect customer’s feedback regularly to know about their conception about

their company and to take timely appropriate action.

To reduce the percentage of wastage / rejection minimum by 2% per annum’s

implement and monitor ISO 9001:2000 quality management system within the

organization.

Man Power Management


2 CHAPTER : MAN POWER MANAGEMENT



2.1.Manpower Organ gram

Manpower organ gram of N. A. Z Bangladesh is as follows -

Finishing & Q.C Manager

Shift In-charge

Q.C Technician

Knitting Manager

Managing Director

Executive Director

GM (Marketing) GM (Production)

Asist. Manager

Sr. Production Officer

Shift In-charge

Production Officer

Assist. Production Officer

Sr. Operator

Operator

Dyeing Manager

Shift In-charge

Production Officer

Asist. Manager

Deputy Manager

Sr. Production Officer

Assist. Production Officer

Sr. Operator

Operator



2.2.Management system

Buyer sample is send to G.M or merchandising manager. Matching is done under lab manager. Sample is prepared by asst. dyeing manager. Sample is send to the buyer for approval. Approved sample is returned and taken as STD. sample for bulk production. Dyeing manager gives responsibilities to asst. dyeing manager. Then shift in-charge with the supervisors start bulk production. On line and off line quality check is done by lab in-charge and asst. dyeing manager. After dyeing asst. manager (finishing) controls the finishing process with the

supervision of shift in-charge. Finally G.M checks the result with dyeing manager and decision is taken for delivery.

Shifting:

In N. A. Z Bangladesh Ltd. The whole day production time is divided into 3 shift.Per shift 8 hours.

Shift Duration

Shift A 6:00 am- 2:00 pm

Shift B 2:00pm – 10:00 pm

Shift C 10:00 pm- 6:00 am

2.3.Duties & Responsibilities of Different Post

General Manager

To deal with the buyer and merchandiser. To set up price for the product. To plan apply and control all administrative functions. To follow up the instruction of managing director and chairman.

Manager

To supervise the personal working under him. To plan the sequence of production. To arrange necessary raw materials for the production problems. To find out the possible reasons which are responsible for less production? To follow up the instruction of Managing Director and Executive Director as well.



Deputy General Manager (DGM) production

Overall supervision of dyeing and finishing section. Check the sensitive parameters of different machines for smooth dyeing. Check the different log books in different areas and report to management. Check the plan to control the best output To trained and motive the subordinates how to improve the quality production. Control the supervisor, operator, asst. operator and helper of dyeing machine. Any other work as and when required.

Senior Production Officer

Overall supervision of dyeing and finishing section. Batch preparation and pH check. Dyes and chemicals requisition issue and check Write loading/unloading time from machine. Program making, sample checking color measurement. Control the supervisor, operator, asst. operator and helper of dyeing machine. Any other work as and when required.

Production officer

To collect the necessary information and infrastructure from the previous shift for thesmooth running of the section.

To match production sample with target shade. To match production sample lot sample matching next production. To observed dyed fabric during finishing running and also after finishing process. To identify disputed fabrics and report to PM/GM for necessary action. To discuss with PM about overall production if necessary. T sign the store requisition and delivery challenge in the absence of PM. To execute the overall floor work. To maintain loading/unloading paper.

Shift In charge

To follow the workers movement. Should discuss with the production Officer about what is happening. To maintain the production sequence. To check the sample at certain time interval.

Raw Materials


3 CHAPTER: RAW MATERIALS

Raw Materials


3.1.Raw Materials

Table 3. 1: Source of yarn for knitting

Lycra: CREORA

Made in Korea

Type # H-100 (20D, 40D)

Square Spinning mill Basher spinning mill

Kamal spinning mill Prime Spinning mill

Aman spinning mill RK Spinning mill

Fariha spinning mill JK Spinning mill

Shohagpur spinning mill AKIJ Spinning mill

Amber cotton mill Pahartoli Spinning mill

Rising spinning mill Youth Spinning mill

Shirin spinning mill Kader Spinning mill

NZ spinning mill Silver Spinning mill

Karim spinning mill Shemem Spinning mill

Knitting Section

14 | P a g e

3.2.Types of yarn used and their count:

Table 3. 2: Types of yarns used in N.A.Z. Bangladesh Ltd

Type of yarn Count

Cotton 20S ,24S, 26S, 28S, 30S, 32S, 34S, 36S ,40S, 45S

Polyester 70D,100D,150D

Spandex yarn 20D,40D,70D

Grey Mélange (C-90% V-10%) 24S, 26S

Ecru Mélange (C-85% V-15%) 24S, 26S, 28S

Cotton Mélange (100%) 24S, 26S, 28S

PC (65%Polyester & 35% cotton) 24S, 26S, 28S, 30S

CVC(60% Polyester & 40% Cotton) 24S, 26S, 28S, 30S

3.3.Cost of Raw Materials:

Table 3.3: Cost of yarn

Yarn Count Combed Yarn Carded Yarn

40/1 3.65 $/Kg 2.65-2.7$/Kg36/1 3.00 $/Kg 2.5-2.6 $/Kg

32/1 2.90 $/Kg 2.30 $/Kg

30/1 2.70 $/Kg 2.30 $/Kg

28/1 2.65 $/kg 2.25 $/Kg

26/1 2.60 $/Kg 2.25 $/Kg

24/1 2.55 $/Kg 2.20 $/Kg

20/1 2.50 $/Kg 2.15-2.2$/Kg

Knitting Section

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Lycra Yarn:

20 den - 12.70 $/Kg

40 den - 8.40 $/Kg

70 den - 7.50 $/Kg

Cost of knitting

Table 3.4: Cost of knitting for different fabrices

Fabrics Taka/kg

Rib (1x1) 12-13

Rib (2x2) 14-15

Interlock 15-16

Single Jersey 7-8

Lacost 8-9

Pique 8-9

Terry fleece 14-15

Remarks: As the yarn consumption totally depends on production and production depends

on order of buyer, so recommendation of yarn type, source, price, requirements may vary.

Knitting Section

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4 CHAPTER : KNITTING UNIT

Knitting Section

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4.1.Organ gram of Knitting Department

ShiftA-4

ShiftB-4

ShiftC-4

Knitting Master

Asst.Master

Sr.Fitter

Servicing -5

Production

Floor In charge

Asst.Manager

Sr.Production Officer

Shift A

Production Officer

Shift B

Production Officer Production Officer

Shift C

Shift In Charge

APO

Operator-40

Shift In Charge

APO

Operator-40

Shift In Charge

APO

Operator-40

Asst. Manager

R& D sample

Supervisor

Asst.Operator-2

Y/D

In charge

Supervisor

QC- 3 QC- 3

Sub ContractOut Scorching

Manager

Sub ContractInside

Manager

Asst.Manager

GM

AGM

Manager

Knitting Section

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4.2. Layout of Knitting Department

Fabric StoreOffice Room AGM

RoomMai

nten

ance

Roo

m

Gate

Knitting Section

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4.3.Knitting:

Knitting is the method of making fabric by transforming continuous strands of yarn into aseries of interlooping loops, each row of such loops forms the one immediately preceding it.

Types of weft knitting m/c:

The N.A.Z Bangladesh Ltd. is a self- sufficient modern company. Its knitting section isdivided into two sections-

1. Flat Knitting Section2. Circular Knitting Section

4.4.Circular knitting section:

Main parts of circular knitting m/c:

1. Yarn feed guide2. Latch needle3. Holding down sinker4. Needle cylinder5. Needle retaining spring6. Needle operating cams7. Cylinder driving wheel8. Cylinder driving gear9. Cylinder driving pinion attached to the main shaft10. Sinker cam top11. Cam box12. Cam plate13. Creel: Creel is used to place the cone.

14. Feeder: Feeder is used to feed the yarn.

15. Tensioning device: Tensioning device is used to give proper tension to the yarn.

16. VDQ pulley: VDQ pulley is used to control the GSM by controlling the stitch length.

17. Guide: Guide is used to guide the yarn.

18. Sensor: Sensor is used to seen & the m/c stops when any problem occurs.

Fire Extinguisher

Hose Pipe

Fabric Rack

Floor MarkingFabric inspectionm/c

V-Bedknitting m/c

Circularknitting m/c

Knitting Section

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19. Spreader: Spreader is used to spread the knitted fabric before take up roller.

20. Take up roller: Take up roller is used to take up the fabric

4.5.Basic knitting element:

1. Needle.2. Sinker.

3. Cam.

Needle:Function of needles: Needle is used to clear the old loop from the hook & to receive the newloop above it on the needle steam.Types of needle:In general there are three types of needles.

a. Bearded needle.b. Latch needle.c. Compound needle.

Figure 4.1: Latch Needle

CAM:

Cams are the devices which convert the rotary m/c drive into a suitable reciprocating action

for the needles or other elements.

Types of cam: Two type of cam

1. Engineering cam Knit cam

2. Knitting cam Miss cam

Tuck cam

LatchSteam

Hook

Rivet

Butt

Knitting Section

21 | P a g e

Function of CAM

The functions of cam are as follows:

Produce motion to needles. Loop formation. Holding down. Knocking over

Sinker:This is secondary primary knitting element. It is a thin metal plate with an individual andcollective action approximate at right angles from the hook side between adjoining needles.

Function of sinker:It may one or more of the following functions dependent upon the machines knitting actionand consequent sinker shape and movement.

Others Equipments Used In Knitting Section:

GSM cutter Electronic balance Inspection m/c

4.6.Terms and definition of knitting:

Course – A horizontal row of loops formed by the needles during one knitting cycle.

Wales – A vertical column of loops formed by a single needle.

Loop - It is a basic unit consisting of a loop of yarn meshed at its base with previously basicunit. Knitted loops are arranged in rows and columns roughly equivalent to the warp and weftof woven structures termed “Wales” and “courses” respectively

Stitch - The smallest dimensionally stable unit of all knitted fabric is stitch. It consists of ayarn loop which is held together by being intermeshed with another stitch or other loop.

Stitch length - Stitch length is a length of yarn which includes the needles of the needle loop& half of the sinker loop on either side of it. Generally the larger stitch length, the moreextensible & lighter the fabric & the poorer the cover, capacity & bursting strength.

Steps should be taken to change stitch length.

- Check the S.L of the m/c prevailing.- Change the diameter of V. DLQ pulley.- Set of the position of carriage.- Set the speed of take- up roller

Knitting Section

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- Maintain the optimum yarn tension.

Yarn count:

Yarn count is the numerical system of expressing length per unit weight or weight per unit

length. Count express fineness or coarseness of yarn.

Yarn count can be calculated in two systems:

Direct system:

In direct system, yarn count is directly related to the yarn fineness. So, lower the count finner

the yarn and higher the count and coarser the yarn. This system is used for Polyester and Ly-

cra and other synthetic fibers.

W lDirect Countw L

Where, W=weight of the sample

L=length of the sample

w=unit weight of the system

l=unit length of the system

Table 4-1: Yarn Count in Direct system

System Unit weight Unit length Uses

Tex Grams 1,000m Polyester

Denier Grams 9,000m Lycra

D-Tex Grams 10,000m Lycra

Pounds/Spyndle Pounds 14400yds Jute

Knitting Section

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Indirect system:

In indirect system, yarn count is inversely related to the yarn fineness. So, higher the count

finner the yarn and lower the count and coarser the yarn. This system is used for cotton,

worsted & woolen.

w LIndirect CountW l

Where, W=weight of the sample

L=length of the sample

w=unit weight of the system

l=unit length of the system

Table 4-2: Yarn Count in Indirect system

System Unit weight Unit length UsesEnglish (Ne) 1 lb 840 yds Cotton yarnMetric (Nm) 1 kg 1 km Cotton yarnWorsted 1 lb 560 yds Worsted yarn

Woolen 1 lb 256 yds Woolen yarn

Stitch Density - Courses per inch (CPI) × Wales per inch (WPI)

M/C Gauge - A number of needles per unit length in the knitting m/c, measured as thenumber of needles in one inch. This measure determines the number of Wales per unit lengthin the knitted fabric.

4.7.Flat Knitting Section

Flat knitting section consists of Flat knitting machines. Its main production is Collar & Cuff.Different types of designed collar & Cuff is produced here matching with the body of thegarments.

Flat knitting machine is used to make collar and cuff with the required shape. Collar and cuffis usually with heavier gsm and thus multiple ply of yarn is used per feeder. No of yarn plyused will also depend on the yarn count. Lycra is also used when required.

Knitting Section

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Table 4-3: No. of yarn ply according to yarn count for collar & cuff

Yarn count (Ne) No. of yarn ply20 322 324 426 430 4-534 6

Size of collar according to size of garments:

Boy’s collar :Length 29 to 36 cm x width 8cm Boy’s cuff : Length 31 cm x width 3cm Man’s:

Table 4-4: Collar & Cuff measurements

Size Collar measurement (cm) Cuff measurement (cm)S 40 x 9 40 x 3.5M 42 x 9 40 x 3.5L 44 x 9 40 x 3.5

XL 46 x 9 40 x 3.5XXL 48 x 9 44 x 3.5

XXXL 50 x 9 44 x 3.5

Collar and cuff which is made with V-bed knitting machine has 3 edge and need not to cut.Those fabrics have following 4 parts:

1. Tube2. Tube end3. Body4. Separation

Knitting Section

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Sequence of operations in knitting section:

Sample fabric

Design analysis

Sample fabric production

Setting the machine for the specificdesign

If Yes

If NoBuyer approval

Bulk Production

QC

Send to Batching section

Knitting Section

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Table 4-5:Main Product - Fabrics :-

Single Jersey

- Single Jersey:- Single Jersey (Lycra)- Single Jersey (Auto Stripe)- Single Jersey (Singed)- Single Jersey (Pigment Dye)- Single Jersey (Sueded / Ultra Soft)

Pique

- Pique- Pique (Auto Stripe)- Pique (Sueded / Ultra Soft)- Pique (Mercerized)- Pique (Ultra soft)

Interlock

- Interlock- Interlock (Ultra soft)- Interlock (Pigment Dye)- Interlock D/N (Cotton)- Interlock D/N (Polyester)

Rib

- Rib: Any Drop Needle- Rib (Pigment Dye)- Rib (Ultra soft)- Rib Elastane- Flat Back Rib- Variegated Rib

Jacquard - Semi Jacquard

Mesh - Mesh

Fleece

- Fleece- Fleece (Inside Brush)- Fleece (Both Side Brush)- Terry Fleece- Polar Fleece- Terry Fleece (Pigment Dye)

Lacoste- Lacoste- Lacoste (Auto Stripe)- Lacoste (Pigment Dye)

Waffle - WaffleValor - Valor

Knitting Section

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Table 4.6: Analysis of structure, looping diagram, cam arrangement and needle arrangement of knit fabric

Single Jersey Single jersey fabric vertical Wales’s line is shown on the face side of the fabric. On the back side sinker loops are produced. Thisfabric is produced by the needles of only one set needle. This fabric has curling effect on the edge after cut in relax state towardsthe back at the sides and towards the front at the top and bottom.End use: basic T-shirt, men’s vest, fine cardigans, ladies hosiery, full-fashioned knitwear etc.

Face Side Back Side

Looping diagram Cam Arrangement

K K K K

NeedleArrangement

1x1 Rib Rib fabric shows the face loop on the both sides of the fabric. Rib requires two sets of needles operating in-between each other sothat walse of face stitches and wales of back stitches are knitted on each side of the fabric. This fabric has good elasticity and has nocurling effect.End use: waist bands, cuffs and collars and typical applications, skirt belt, various types of fancy borders, sweaters etc.

Face Side Back Side


K M K MM K M KK M K MM K M K

NeedleArrangement

D

C

Knitting Section

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Interlock Interlock has same appearance on both sides, like face of plane, but its smooth surface cannot be stretched. Interlock processtwo sets of needles (short and long) in both cylinder and dial and at least two feeders. This fabric cannot be un roved fromeither sides and has no curling effect.End use: under wear, trouser, sportswear, t- shirts, polo shirts etc.

Face Side Back Side


M KK MM KK M

NeedleArrangement

Single Lacost Single lacost is a knit-tuck single jersey structure. Face and back side of the fabric is different & produced withcylinder needle only. The prominence of the design appears on the back of the structure. The repeat of this structurecompletes on four courses.

Face Side Back Side


K T K KK K K T

NeedleArrangement

D

C

Knitting Section

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Double Lacost Double lacost is a knit-tuck single jersey structure. Face and back side of the fabric is different & produced with cylinderneedle only. The prominence of the design near to the single lacost design. The repeat of this structure completes on sixcourses. Benzene structure is shown on back side of the fabric.

Face Side Back Side


K K K K T TK T T K K K

NeedleArrangement

Single Pique Single pique is a knit-tuck single jersey structure and produced with cylinder needle only. The prominence of the designappears on the back side of the fabric. Face side of this fabric is like face of s/j and benzene ring is produced on the backside of the fabric. The repeat of this structure completes on two courses.

Face side Back side


K TT K

NeedleArrangement

Knitting Section

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Double pique Double pique is a knit-tuck single jersey structure and produced with cylinder needle only. The prominence of the designappears on the back side of the fabric. Face side of this fabric is like face of s/j and benzene ring is produced on the back sideof the fabric. The repeat of this structure completes on four courses.

Face side Back side


K K T TT T K K

NeedleArrangement

Fleece Fleece fabric is produced with the combination of knit, tuck and miss loops and this is s/j structure. Face side of thefabric is like face of s/j and miss loop will appear on the back side. If back side is brushed then called fleece fabric.

Face side Face side


K T K MK M K MK M K T

NeedleArrangement

Knitting Section

Industrial Attachment 31 | P a g e

4.8.Specifications of knitting machines used in N. A. Z Bangladesh Ltd.

Table 4.7. 1Single Jersey

SL/NO.

M/CTYPE

MC/DIA

M/CGAUGE

FEEDER

QTY BRAND ORIGIN FABRIC’STYPE

PRO.CAP/KGS

REMARKS

1 S/J 19 24 57 1 ORIZIO ITALY S/J, Pique 200







8 S/J 25 24 75 1 ORIZIO ITALY S/J, Pique 300 LycraAttachment



11 S/J 26 24 114 1 MAYER & CIE GERMANY S/J, Pique 500 Lycra

Knitting Section


Attachment

12 S/J 28 24 123 1 MAYER & CIE GERMANY S/J, Pique 500 LycraAttachment

13 S/J 26 24 114 1 MAYER & CIE GERMANY S/J, Pique 500 LycraAttachment

Total 21 6025

Table 4-7. 2 Fleece + 2 Thread Fleece + 3 Thread Fleece

SL/NO.

M/CTYPE

MC/DIA

M/CGAUGE

FEEDER QTY BRAND ORIGIN FABRIC’STYPE

PRODCAP/KGS

REMARKS

1 Fleece 28 20,24 90 1 MAYER & CIE GERMANY

S/J ,Fleece 400 LycraAttachment







5 Fleece 32 20,24,28 96 1 Fukahama TAIWAN S/J ,Fleece 350 Lycra

Knitting Section


Attachment

6 Fleece 34 20,24,28 102 1 Fukahama TAIWAN S/J ,Fleece 400 LycraAttachment

Total 6 2500

Table 4-7. 3 Rib + Interlock + Flat Back Rib + Drop Needle

SL/No.

M/C TYPE MC/DIA

M/CGAUGE

Feeder

QTY

BRAND ORIGIN FABRIC’STYPE

Prodcap/kg

REMARKS

1 Rib+Interlock 30 14,18 62 1 MAYER & CIE GERMANY Rib+I/L+F/Rib 300 Lycra Attachment



4 Rib +Interlock 36 14,20 74 1 MAYER & CIE GERMANY Rib+I/L+F/Rib 400 Lycra Attachment

5 Rib +Interlock 38 14,21 78 1 MAYER & CIE GERMANY Rib+I/L+F/Rib 500 Lycra Attachment

6 Rib +Interlock 36 16,22 72 1 Fukahama TAIWAN Rib+I/L+F/Rib 350 Lycra Attachment

7 Rib +Interlock 38 16,23 76 1 Fukahama TAIWAN Rib+I/L+F/Rib 400 Lycra Attachment

8 Rib +Interlock 40 18,22 84 3 Juinn Long TAIWAN Rib+I/L+F/Rib 400 Lycra Attachment

Knitting Section


9 Rib 40 16 80 1 Juinn Long TAIWAN Rib +F/Rib 800 F/Look lycra Attach

10 Rib 42 18 84 4 Juinn Long TAIWAN Rib +F/Rib 400 F/Look lycra Attach

11 Interlock 38 24 114 1 Juinn Long TAIWAN INTERLOCK 400 Lycra Attachment



14 RIB 34 15 24 1 Juinn Long TAIWAN RIB 200 Lycra Attachment

Total 21 5700

Table 4.7.1 Terry = S/J + Terry / Terry Fleece + Velor + Polar Fleece etc.

M/CTYPE

MC/DIA

M/CGAUGE

FEEDER QTY BRAND ORIGIN FABRIC’S TYPE

PRODCAP/KGS

REMARKS

1 Terry 42 20 68 2 MAYER & CIE Germany Terry 1000 Lycra Attachment

Total 2 1000

Knitting Section


Table 4.7. 4 Auto Stripe + Feeder Stripe (S/J + Pique + Lacoste + Other Design)

SL/NO.

M/C TYPE MC/DIA

M/CGAUGE

FEEDER

QTY

BRAND ORIGIN FABRICTYPE

PRODCAP/KGS

REMARKS

1Auto Stripe 34 24 48 4 Fukahama JAPAN Auto Stripe 300 Lycra Attachment

2 Auto Stripe 36 24 48 4 Fukahama JAPAN Auto Stripe 350 Lycra Attachment

3 Auto Stripe 38 24 48 2 Fukahama JAPAN Auto Stripe 400 Lycra Attachment

Total 8 1050

Table 4.7. 5: V-bed knitting m/c

SL/NO.

M/C TYPE MC/DIA

M/CGAUGE

FEEDER QTY

BRAND ORIGIN FABRICTYPE

PRODCAP/KGS

REMARKS

1 Flat Knit 0 14 8 6 Snima Seiki Japan Collar/Cuff 1400 Lycra Attachment

2 Flat Knit 0 14 12 1 Stoll Germany Collar/Cuff 700 Lycra Attachment

Total 7 2100

Knitting Section


4.9.Quality Standard:

N. A. Z Bangladesh Ltd. follows the four point grading system to inspect the body& rib fabric, by this four point system, the faults arc found by the inspection and points aregiven against the faults. Following table shows the four point grading system followed byinspection at N. A. Z Bangladesh Ltd.

Table 4.8: four point system for knit fabric

Four Point Grading System

Size Of Defects Penalty

3 inches or less 1 point

Over 3 inch but not over 6 inch 2 point

Over 6 inch but not over 9 inch 3 point

Over 9 inch 4 point

Any Hole 4 Point

Typical knitting calculations:

The calculations which are frequently used in the knitting section are discussed below:

Gauge (G): Number of needles per inch.

Total needles: Machine diameter× Gauge×3.416

Feeders of Single Jersey: Machine diameter×3

Feeders of Double Jersey: Machine diameter×2

Relation between yarn count and fabric Gsm

For single jersey fabric:

4320Yarn CountFabric Gsm

For Double jersey fabric:

Knitting Section


6000Yarn CountFabric Gsm

Relation between fabrics finished Gsm, stitch length, fabric gsm, yarn count:

For Single Jersey fabric:

590 KsStitch LengthYarn Count Finished Gsm

Where,

For s/j, Ks=19.6

For 1x1 rib, Ks=26

For Interlock, Ks=38

Fabric Thickness:

Fabric thickness = 4D

Here, D= yarn dia (in relaxed state)

Tightness Factor:

TexTightness FactorStitch Length , here stitch length is in mm

Production per shift:

. 60 8Pr1000 840 ( ) 36 2.2028

D G S L F RPM efficiencyoduction per shift Kgyarncount Ne

Where,

D= Machine dia G= Machine gauge S.L.=Stitch length F= No. of feeder

4.10. Remarks:

knitting section is equipped with a large number of machines. But some modern knittingmachine should purchased including engineering stripe machine with Lycra attachmentfacility.

Lab Section


5 CHAPTER : BATCH SECTION

Lab Section


5.1. Batching:

Primarily batching is done by batching section which is supervised by dyeing manager.

The main function of batching section is to prepare the batch for dyeing according to

machine capacity, order and emergency. This section receive the grey fabric from knitting

section and make batch according to order for particular shade. Then this batch delivers to

dyeing section for dyeing.

Function or purpose of Batch section:

To receive the grey fabric roll form knitting or other source.

Turn the gray fabric if require.

Prepare the batch for dyeing according to the following criteria:

Order sheet (Received from buyer)

Dyeing shade ( light or dark, color or white)

Machine capacity.

Type of fabric ( 100% Cotton, CVC, Stripe fabric)

Emergency order.

Fabric construction (Single jersey, Rib, Lycra Rib, Lacost, PK etc.)

To send the grey fabric to the dyeing floor with batch card.

To keep record.

Proper Batching Criteria:

To use maximum capacity of existing dyeing machine.

To minimize preparation time & machine stoppage time.

To use a particular machine for dyeing same shade.

5.2.Calculations related to batch section:

( )100

Dia cm GSMGrams per linear meter

1000kg per ChamberMeters Per ChemberGrms per linear meter

Now, when a gram per linear meter is low then meters per chamber will be more. Thus,fabric loading should be reduced to avoid jamming in the winch. In this case 80-85% fabric

Lab Section


loading is given. But when gram per linear meter is more then rope length will reduce andin this case up to 90% fabric loading can be given.

Preparing the fabric ropes

The fabric ropes for each chamber should be prepared in batching section. The fabric rollsare correctly sewn together. This will minimize the time required to load the machine, andavoid the risk of rope entanglement.

Fabric loading in the m/c will vary with the type of fabric and the width of the fabric andthe amount is not less than 50% of the machine nominal load.

5.3.Calculating the chamber loading

In the following table are listed general recommendations covering rope cycle times andspeeds for a wide range of fabrics:

Fabric Rope cycle times in minutes Rope circulation speed m/min

Knit fabric

PES unfixed 1 250

PES heat set 1-1.5 200

PC 1-2 250Co - reactive 2-3 225-275

For calculation the following diagram shows the weight per running metre of a fabric ingrams, and the corresponding rope weight and length. e.g. a fabric of 200 gm/runningmetrewith rope length of 800 metres will have a dry weight of 160 kg.

Lab Section


Kg

0200 400 800600 1000

01200

20

40

60

80

100

120

200

140

160

180

220

260

280

300

320

340

360

240

100g

125g

150g

175g

200g

225g50

0g

400g

350g

300g

275g

250g

550g

Grms/running meter

Rope length(m)

Lab Section


Figure 5-1: Rope length (m) and fabric wt loading on m/c depending on the grams perrunning meter of fabric

Turn over time

The following diagram shows the relationship between winch speed and rope lengthnecessary to reach a required turn over time.

Figure 5-2: Rope length depending on winch speed

It is also possible to reverse the procedure and calculate the maximum rope length with afabric of a particular weight, having determined the winch speed and circulation time.

For example: 100% Cotton, Reactive dyeing:

Circulation time = 3 minutes

Winch speed = 250 m/min

Rope length = 3 mins x 250 m

0 200 400 600 800 1000 1200

100

200

300

400

500

m/min600

Win

ch sp

eed

m/m

in

Rope length(m)

3

1

2

45

6

Lab Section


= 750 meters

If the rope is shorter, so that the same rope circulation time and nozzle contacts aremaintained during the cycle, the winch speed should be reduced.

Rope length 690 m

Circulation time 3 mins = 230 m/min (winch speed)

Calculation of the the rope length

If Rope weight is 105 kg

(weightper running metre) 200 kg/rm = 525 m (rope length)

Calculation of the winch speed

If Rope length is 540 m

Cycle time 3 mins

Then Winch speed = 180 m/min

Number of nozzle passages

(Process time) 360 mins

(Cycle time) 3 mins = 120 (nozzle passages)

5.4.Batch management

Primarily batching is done by dyeing manager taking the above criteria underconsideration. Batch section in charge receives this primary batch plan from dyeingmanager. Some time planning is adjusted according to m/c condition or emergency

Machines in Batch section:

Fabric turning m/c:

Machine Name : Air turning m/cBrand Name : TaidaOrigin : ChinaM/c Speed : 300-500m/minModel : DF 200Company : Shandong Taida Dyeing & Finishing Machinery Co. Ltd.

Lab Section


5.5.Process flow chart of Batch preparation:

Deliver the Fabric to dyeing section

Receive the order sheet from in-charge

Make the batch card on the priority of shipment date

Take the Batch card which order have to deliver first

Check the availability of the fabric

Turn off the fabric (if necessary)

Distribute the collar/cuff or Rib in each rope equally ensuring equallength.

Take collar/cuff as per size and keep the total weight

Take require quantity of body fabric from the store

Stitch the fabric

Write down weight against roll no. in the back side of the Batch card

Write the total weight in the batch card

Fill up the Production report form

Lab Section


Precautions during batch making

Check whether count variation is occured or not

Check whether lot variation is occured or not

Check whether rib fabric is included or not

Be sure about the packing instruction , whether it is

Solid color solid size

Solid color assorted size

Assorted color assorted size

Assorted color solid size

Lab Section


6 CHAPTER : LAB SECTION

Lab Section


6.1. Lab dip:

Lab dip is a process by which buyers supplied swatch is matched with the varying dyespercentage in the laboratory with or without help of “DATA COLOR”

Lab dip plays an important role in shade matching & and detaching the characteristics ofthe dyes and chemicals are to be used in the large scale of production so this is animportant task before bulk production.

Objective of Lab dip:

The main objectives in lab are as follows:

To calculate the recipe for sample dyeing. To compare dyed sample with swatch by light Box or spectrophotometer. To calculate revise recipe for sample dyeing. Finally approved lab dip (Grade: ABC)

Table 6-1: Amount salt and soda used depending on the shade %

Shade % Salt (g/l) Soda (g/l)

0.001-0.01 15 4

0.01-0.1 20 5

0.1-0.5 30 7

0.5-1.0 40 10

1.0-1.5 50 12

1.5-2 60 15

2-3 70 18

3 to above 80 20

Lab Section


6.2.Instrumental Color matching Process:

Spectrophotometer flow Chart

Triangle shade

Initial recipe

Laboratory dyeing

Use L*, a*, b* to match

OK

Production dyeing

Use L*, a*, b* to match

Recipe correction

Not matched

Production correction

Not matched

Input database

History of the lab

Recipe Prediction calculated by CCM

Or calculated by smart shade library

Finished

OK

Lab Section


6.3. Dyes and chemicals measuring formula for laboratory:

◘ The amount of dye solution (ml) is calculated as follow –

Fabric weight x Shade %

Amount of dye soln (ml) = -----------------------------------------------

Concentration of stock dye soln %

Example –

In recipe, Fabric wt. = 5gm

Shade % = 2%

[If used 0. 5 % stock soln of dyes] then,

5 x 2

Amount of dye soln (ml) = ----------- = 20ml.

0.5

◘ The amount of chemical soln (ml) is measured as follow –

Fabric wt. x M: L x g/l

Amount of chemical soln (ml) = --------------------------------------

1000 x Conc. of stock soln %

Example –

In recipe, The Fabric wt. = 5 gm

Salt = 20 g/l

M: L = 10

[If taken 25 % stock soln. of salt] then,

5 x 10 x 20

Amount of chemical soln (ml) = --------------------- = 4 ml

1000 x 0.25

Lab Section


6.4. Stock solution preparation:

SHADE % STOCK SOLUTION %

0.0001-0.009 0.1

0.10-0.99 0.5

1-1.99 1

2-3.99 2

4 ( or above) 4

6.5.Procedure of lab dip formation:

A. For 100% cotton fabric:

Fabric weight measured by electric balance 5 gm sample is taken. Calculate the recipe. Make solution of required dyes and chemicals. Then required amount of dyes, water, salt, soda and other chemicals are taken to

the pot by digital pipette.(M:L=1:7) Wet the fabric with water. Keep the fabric in the pot and immerse well with tong. Cover the pot well and set to the m/c holder. Start the program for dyeing. The dyeing time and temperature depend on types of dyes being used.

Program – 1: For light shade

Fixed temp = 60

Time = 60 min.

Program – 2: For dark shade

Fixed temp = 80

Circulation Time = 60 min.

After finished the dyeing time then cold wash two times.Acid wash for neutralization with 1g/l acetic acid.Then soaping by required soap solution for 10 min. at 950CCold wash then drying the lab dip and compare with the standard.

Lab Section


B. For cotton/ blend fabric (all in one method):

Fabric weight measured by electric balance 5 gm sample is taken. Calculate the recipe for polyester part. 1 to April 1 Make solution of required dyes and chemicals. Then required amount of dyes, water, dispersing agent, acetic acid and sodium ace-

tate are taken to the pot by digital pipette.Wet the fabric with water. Keep the fabric in the pot and immerse well with tong. Cover the pot well and set to the m/c holder. Start the program for dyeing. The dyeing time and temperature are carried out for 30 min. at 1300C After finished the dyeing time then cold wash two times. Then reduction clearing by hydrose, caustic & detergent for 20 min at 700C Cold wash then drying and match with the standard sample.

Again,

Dye the cotton part with cotton dyeing procedure.

6.6.Self shade formation:

Dyeing lab in-charge will produce self shade for new dyes stored in the dye store. Selfshade should be ok with the previous self shade of the dye or if any deviation is obtainedthen necessary steps should be taken.

Development of self shade:

Reactive Black B:

0.5%,30/8 1%,40/10 1.5%,40/10

2%,50/12 2.5%,50/12

3%,60/15

3.5%,60/15

4%,70/18 4.5%,80/20

5%,80/20 6%,80/20

Lab Section


Reactive Yellow 4GL:

Ciba Red FNR:

Reactive Yellow RR:

Reactive Blue:

0.05%,0/6 0.1%,20/6 0.5%,30/8 0.8%,38/8 2%,60/15 3.5%,60/15

0.1%,20/6 0.5%,30/8 0.8%,30/8 2%,60/15 3.5%,60/15

5%,80/20

2%, 60/15 3.5%, 68/150.5%, 30/8 0.8%, 30/8 1%,48/10

0.05%,20/6 0.1%,20/6 0.5% 20/6 0.8%,20/6 2%,60/15 3.5%,60/15

Lab Section


Ciba Orange FNK:

Ciba Yellow FN2R:

Ciba Red FNR:

2%, 50/12 3%, 80/20 4%, 80/20 5.5%, 80/20

0.05%,20/6 0.1%, 20/6 0.25%,30/8 0.5%,30/8 1%,40/10 1.5%,40/10

1.0%,30/8 2.5%,80/20 3.5%,80/20 5.0%,80/20

5%,80/203.5%,80/200.1%,30/8 0.5%,30/8 1%,30/8 2.5%,80/20

Lab Section


Dimarine Scarlet HF3G:

Dimarine Turquoise CIB:

0.005%, 20/6 0.01%,20/6 0.05%,20/6 0.1% 20/6 0.5%,30/8 0.8%,30/8

1%, 40/10 2%, 60/15 3.5%,60/15 5%,60/15

0.005%, 20/6 0.01%,30/6 0.05%,20/6 0.1%,20/6 0.5%,30/8 0.8%,30/8

1%, 40/10 2%, 40/10 3.5%,70/15 5%, 80/20 5.5%,80/20

Lab Section


Reactive Super Black RGB:

Sola Blue RSPL:

0.005%,20/6 0.01%,20/6 0.05%,20/6 0.1%,20/6 0.5%,30/8 0.8%,30/8

1%,40/10 2%,60/15 3.5%,60/15 4%,70/18

0.1 %, 20/6 0.5 %, 38/8 1%, 40/10 1.5%, 48/10 2.5%, 58/12 3.5%, 60/15

4%, 78/18 4.5%, 80/20 5%, 80/20 5.5%, 80/20 7%, 80/20 8.5%, 80/20

Lab Section


6.7.Machine Specification of Dyeing Lab:

Machine No : 01

Machine Name : Power drum

Manufacturer : Samsung

Machine type : Fully automatic washingmachine

Machine No : 02

Manufacturer : Sharp

Country of origin : Japan

Machine type : Washing machine

Machine No : 03

Machine Name :Labdyeing machine(Polyester dye)

Manufacturer : Irdyer

Machine No : 04

Machine Name :Electrolux washcotar

Model : FOM71MP-lab

Function :Dimensional stability(Shrinkage)

Machine No : 05

Machine Name : Rota wash

Function : colorfastness towash

Machine No : 06

Machine Name : Lab dyeing machine(Cotton dye)

Manufacturer : IRDYER

Machine No : 07

Machine Name : Dimensionalstability to wash

Manufacturer : LG

Machine No : 08

Machine Name : Tumble dryer

Manufacturer : Indesit

Machine No : 09

Machine Name : Color fastness tolight

Manufacturer : SDL international

Machine No : 10

Machine Name : ICI pilling tester


Country of origin : England

Machine No : 11 Machine Name : 12

Lab Section


Machine Name : Gray Scale



Machine Name : Incubator


Function : Colorfastness towater

Machine No : 13

Machine Name : Crockmeter

Manufacturer : James H. Heal &Co. Ltd.


Machine No : 14

Machine Name : Spectrophotometer

Brand : Color-eye 7000A



Machine No : 15

Machine Name : Light box

Manufacturer : Verivide (CAC 120)

Machine No : 16

Machine Name : Overlock sewingmachine

Dyeing Section


7 CHAPTER : DYEING SECTION

Dyeing Section


7.1.Layout of Dyeing Department

Hydro Extractor M/c

Fabric Inspection M/c

1 to 12- Dilmenler Dyeing M/c (Except 10 & 11)

10-bangla Dyeing m/c, 30 kg capacity

11-bangla Dyeing m/c, 50 kg capacity

BWM Bangla Washing M/c

CMC- Color Matching Cabinet

FTM-Fabric Turning M/c

8 7 6 5 4 3 2 11050

kg

700

kg525kg

1400kg

350kg

175kg

50kg

50kg

TumbleDryer

TumbleDryer

TumbleDryer

TumbleDryer

FTM

FTMBacksewingm/c

TubeCompactor

Relax Dryer

Tubesqueezer

CMC

Office Room

Dyeing lab

(1st floor)

OpenCompactor

Bruckner StenterOpenSqueezer

1400 kg

12

10kg

9

1110

BWM

BW M

Dyeing Section


7.2.Orgn gram of Dyeing Department:

Chairman

Managing Director

General ManagerOperation

Manager Dyeing

Supervisor

ProductionOfficer

Worker

Finishing In-Charge

QualityController

QA In-Charge

Worker

AssistantManager QA

ManagerDyeing

Asst. Manager

Dyeing

Sr. ProductionOfficer/In-Charge

A.P.O

ProductionOfficer

Supervisor &Worker

Supervisor

Officer R&D

Worker

AssistantManager R&D

Dyeing Section


7.3.Textile Dyeing:

Dyeing is a coloration process of textile which is invariable carried out in an aqueousmedium.

In the other hand, dyeing can be define as a process by which a yarn, fabric, garments andany other materials that come to contact of dye by presence of auxiliaries that create thecondition of dyeing environment

Table 7. 1Classes of dyes on the basis of suitability of dyeing different fibers:

Sl. no Name of dyes Suitable for Fibers

01 Acid dyes Wool, silk and Nylon

02 Basic dyes Nylon, Acrylic, Acetate Rayon, Silk, Wool and Jute

03 Direct dyes Cotton, Viscose Rayon, Linen, Nylon, Wool and Silk

04 Azoic dyes Cotton, Viscose and Linen.

05 Vat dyes Cotton, Viscose and Linen.

06 Sulpher dyers Cotton, Viscose and Linen.

07 Reactive dyes Cotton, Viscose, Linen, Wool, Silk and Nylon.

08 Disperse dyes Polyester, Nylon, Acrylic, Acetate Rayon and TriacetateRayon.

Cotton:

The repeating unit in the cotton polymer is cellobiose, which consists of two glucose units.The most important chemical grouping on the cotton polymer is the hydroxyl groups or -OHgroups. As a result

Cotton is a natural Cellulose has an empirical formula of (C6H10O5)n.

Figure 7.1: Cellulose, the polymer of cotton

Dyeing Section


Chemical Composition of Cotton:

Table 7. 2: Chemical composition of raw cotton:

Component Main location Relative amountCellulose Secondary wall 86.8 %Oil and Wax Cuticle 0.70 %Pectins Primary cell wall 1.0 %Carbohydrates Primary cell wall 0.50 %Protein Lumen 1.2 %Salts Lumen 1.0 %Water Whole 6.8 %

Others 2.0 %

7.4. Reactive dye:

Reactive dyes are so called because their molecules react chemically with the fibre polymersof some fibres to form a covalent bond between the dye molecule and fibre polymer. Thefibre most readily coloured with reactive dyes are the man-made and natural cellulose fibres,synthetic nylon, and natural protein fibres.

History: In 1955, Rattee and Stephen, working for ICI in England, developed a procedure fordyeing cotton with fiber-reactive dyes containing dichlorotriazine groups. They establishedthat dyeing cotton with these dyes under mild alkaline conditions resulted in a reactivechlorine atom on the triazine ring being substituted by an oxygen atom from a cellulosehydroxyl group This is shown below:

Where Cell–OH is the cellulose with a reactive hydroxyl group, Dye–Cl- is the dye with itsreactive chlorine atom, and Cell–O–Dye the dye linked to the cellulose by a covalent bond.The role of the alkali is to cause acidic dissociation of some of the hydroxyl groups in thecellulose, and it is the cellulosate ion (Cell–O-) that reacts with the dye.

2Cell OH HO Cell O H OCell O Dye Cl Cell O Dye Cl

Dyeing Section


Classification of Reactive dyes on the basis of functional group

Mono-functional

Multi-functional

Bi-functional

Homo-bifunctional

Hetero-bifunctional

Tri-functional

Tetra-functional

Penta- functional

Bi-and poly-functional reactive dyes can be divided into four groups. If the two reactivegroups in the dyestuff molecule are the same, they are known as homobifunctional dyes, andif they are different, they are known as heterobifunctional types.

Figure 7.2: Bifunctional reactive dye (Remazol Black B, DyStar)

Dyeing machine:

The machine which is used to dyeing or coloring of materials like yarn, fabric, garments orany other materials is called dyeing machine.

Dyeing Section


7.5.Winch Dyeing Machine:

The winch or beck dyeing machine is quite simple and serves for all scouring,bleaching, dyeing, washing-off and softening processes. The machine contains a length offabric with the ends sewn together, which is compressed to form a continuous rope. This ropepasses from the dye bath over two elevated reels and then falls back into the bath. The firstroller is free-running (jockey or fly roller). The second (winch reel) is driven and controls therate of rope transport and the extent of pleating where the rope accumulates below and behindthe winch. Both reels extend the full length of the machine and accommodate several fabricropes running side by side. The fabric rope is held on the winch by friction and its ownweight. Covering the winch with polypropylene or polyester tape increases the friction.

Figure 7. 3: Dilmenlar Winch Dyeing m/c

7.6.Principle of winch dyeing machine

The basic principle of all winch dyeing machines is to have a number of loops orropes of the fabric in the dye bath, these ropes are of equal length, which are mostlyimmersed in the liquor in the bath.

The upper part of each rope runs over two reels which are mounted over dye bath. Atthe front of the machine, above the top of the dye liquor, is a smaller reel, which iscalled jockey or fly roller. The fly roller remains freewheeling along with fabric rope.

At the back of winch tank is the winch wheel, which pulls the fabric rope from the dyebath over the jockey reel for dropping in the dye bath for immersion.

From the dropped location, the fabric rope travels back. To be lifted and fed to winchwheel.

Dyeing Section


The dyeing process on winch dyeing machines is based on higher M: L as comparedwith other dyeing machines.

The process is conducted with very little tension. The total dyeing time is lengthier as compared to other machines.

Table 7. 3: Production Parameters :

Process Temp(▫C) pH Time minM : Lratio

Scouring -

Bleaching98 10-11 30 1:8

Enzyme Wash 55 4.5-5 30 1:8

Reactive Dyeing

(Light Shade)60 10-11 60 1:8

Reactive Dyeing

(Dark Shade)60 11-12 60 1:8

White Shade 98 10.5-11.5 30 1:8

Turquish color dyeing 80-90 11-12 60 1:8

Polyester dyeing 130 4-4.5 45 1:8

7.7.Specification of Dyeing Machine used in N.A.Z Bangladesh LTD:

Machine No # 01

Manufacturer Dilmenler

Capacity 50 kg

No of nozzle 01

Website www.dilmenler.com.tr

Machine No # 02Manufacturer Dilmenler

Dyeing Section


Capacity 50 kgNo of nozzle 01


Machine No # 03


Capacity 1050 kg

No of nozzle 06


Machine No # 04


Capacity 175 kg

No of nozzle 02


Machine No # 05


Capacity 350 kg

No of nozzle 02


Machine No # 06


Dyeing Section


Capacity 1400 kg

No of nozzle 08


Machine No # 07


Capacity 525 kg

No of nozzle 03


Machine No # 08


Capacity 700 kg

No of nozzle 03


Machine No # 09


Capacity 10 kg

No of nozzle 01


Machine No # 10

Capacity 30 kg

Dyeing Section


Machine No # 11

Capacity 70 kg

Machine No # 12


Capacity 1400 kg

No of nozzle 08


Calculation realted to dyeing floor:

39.37 1000.

Machine CapacityWinch speedGSM fabric width no of Nozzle Cycle Timt

39.37 10000.

Machine CapacityCycle TimeFabric GSM Fabric width No of Nozzle Winch speed

Re ( ) %quired Dye kg Shade Fabric weight in Kg

/Re1000

g l required Total liquorquired Chemicals

Dyeing Section


Figure 7. 4: Cross sectional view of Dilmenler Dyeing m/c

1-Minimum fabric tension withlow level main Winch

2-Adjustable patented nozzlesystem

3-Horizontal type cylindricalfilter with large filteringsurface

4-Teflon lined J-BOX bottom

5-J-BOX system which providenon-tangle even for sensitivefabric

6-Large inspection port withplatform with three combinedsecurity system

7-Halogen inner lighting

8-Elliptical fabric pipe

9-Rapid machine cleaningsystem

10-HAT-PRO 100% hot waterpreparation tank

11-Proportional heating &cooling valves

12-Heat exchanger with70C/min heating gradient

INLETINLET

DyeDosin

gTank

Chemical

DosingTank

65

4

32

7

21 8 9

10

11

12

13

14

WaterInlet

Dyeing Section


Figure 7. 5: Different valves used in Dilmenler winch Dyeing m/c

Cold Soft WaterInlet

Steam Inlet

Hot Soft WaterInletCondensate Return Line

Cooling WaterReturn Line

DN

80 D

N 8

0

DN 20

AdditionTank

(Auxiliaries)

AdditionTank

(Dye)

DN 25

DN 80

DN 80

DN 80

DN 50

Hea

t Exc

hang

er

DN 125

DN 125

DMS140

DMS140

DN80

DN80

DMS140

DMS140

DN 125

8

Dyeing Section


Controlling Points:

Air min 6 bar to max 7 bar

Steam supply min 6 bar to max 8 bar

Water supply min 2 bar to max 5 bar

Valve fig. Description

Steam valve

Steam valve

Swing check valve

Strainer

Manual valve

Flow scope

Pressure Gauge

½” muff and dummy plug

7.8. Important parts of Dilmenler Winch Dyeing m/c:

Winch:

Winch is an important part of dyeing machine and used for moving the fabric through thewhole dyeing machine. Winch is rotated with the help of motor. Fabric is passed over thewinch and fabric dwell time depends on the winch speed. Winch speed will depend on therope length and gsm of the fabric to be dyed. There is opening on the machine for winch toremove tangled fabric from winch. No. of nozzle per winch is normally 1 or 2 and total no. ofwinch per machine will depend on machine capacity.

Figure 7.6: winch

Dyeing Section


Addition Motor:

Addition motor is used to dissolve salt, soda dye and other chemicals. This motor ensuresuniform dispersion of chemicals. This motor is used in the dosing tank and tiere is an agitatorconnected to the motor for addition.

Dosing tank:

Dosing tank is used for the application of dyes and chemicals to the dye bath in solutionform. Steam line is connected to the dosing tank. This tank ensures dissolved chemicals anddyes to the dyeing machine to ensure fault free dyeing.

Nozzle:

Nozzle is the part of winch dyeing machine where dye pick up of the fabric is maximum.After the winch the fabric is passed through the nozzle. Main motor is connected to thenozzle and continuously circulate dyeing liquor to the machine via nozzle. Fabric passed withthe pressure of water and used for controlling the speed of dye liquor. There is opening in thenozzle which can be controlled as required.

Heat Exchanger:

Heat exchanger is used for heating and cooling the dye bath liquor. Heat exchange process isachieved by passing steam or water through the coiled pipe line present in the heat exchanger.When heat is increased then steam valve is opened and passed through the coiled pipe lineand dyeing liquor is passed through the heat exchanger. During the passage, heat increase ofdyeing liquor. For reducing heat, water valve will opened and heat will reduce.

J-Box:

J-box of the machine is where fabric will stored after falling from the nozzle. J-shape helpsthe smooth passage of fabric. This box contains a deposition tube line attached to the fabricguide. This box is perforated and ensures easy circulation of dyeing liquor to the machine.

Main motor:

Centrifugal pump is used for circulating the liquor through the dyeing machine. Its capacitywill depend on the capacity of the machine.

Valves:

Different types of valves are used in dyeing machine. Such as steam valve, water valve,pneumatic valve etc.

Dyeing Section


Viewing light:

Viewing light is given in the dyeing machine to see how the dyeing of the fabric is advancingin the dyeing machine from outside of the dyeing machine as it is impossible to look into thedyeing machine due to high steam temperature.

Filter Tube:

Filter tube is used inside the circulating line and drain line through which dyeing liquor ispassed to filter impurities. If the filter is jammed then removed from line and cleaned.

Drain line:

Drain line is used for extracting the liquor out of the dyeing automatically.

7.9.Machine Setup On The Basis Of Fabric Type & GSM

Fabric Type GSM Pump Speed % Reel Speed(MPM)

Single Jersey Up to 140 80 250

140 – 180 85 230

180 – above 90 210

Polo Pique, Back Pique

& Bubble Knit

Up to 160 85 280

160 – 200 90 260

220 – above 90 240

Interlock Up to 180 85 260

180 – 220 90 240

220 – above 90 220

Dyeing Section


7.10. Stock Solution for Production:

S.L no. SHADE % SALT SODA WATER

1 0.0001-0.01 7 5 1:8

2 0.01-0.08 10 6

3 0.08-0.15 12 7

1:7

4 0.15-0.8 15 8

5 0.8-1.5 18 9

6 1.5-2 20 10

7 2-2.5 30 13

8 2.5-3 40 15

9 3-3.5 50 16

10 3.5-4 60 18

11 4-4.5 70 20 1:6

12 4.5 and over 80 20

7.11. Water level for different dyeing m/c on the basis of shade %:

Machine No Light Shade

≤ 0.49 %

Medium Shade

0.5 – 1.99 %

Deep Shade

≥ 2.0 %

DM – 01 4200 Litter 3800 Litter 3600 Litter



Dyeing Section






SM – 01 180 Litter 150 Litter 120 Litter






7.12. Amount of Salt & Alkali on the basis of Shade%

Shade % ( owf ) Glauber salt ( g/l ) Soda ash ( g/l )

0.0010 – 0.2 20 5

0.2 – 1 40 10

1 – 2.5 60 15

2.5 – 4 70 20

4 – 8 80 20

Above 8 100 20

Dyeing Section


7.13. Raw Material Used for Dyeing:Gray fabricsDyesChemicals

Table 7.4: Dyes, Chemicals & Cuxiliaries Use in N.A.Z:

Basic Chemicals Suppliers name Country of OrigineBasic acitic acid SINTEX &

CHEM.PTV.LTDChina

Basic common salt Osman Enterprise Local

Basic gluber salt chemical SINTEX &CHEM.PTV.LTD

China

Basic caustic soda SINTEX &CHEM.PTV.LTD

China

Basic hydrogen per oxide ASM CHEMICALS Bangladesh

Basic soda ash light SINTEX &CHEM.PTV.LTD

China

AuxiliariesPeroxide killer geizyme OEM SM COLOR CHEM USA

Peroxide tesbilizerSR/Stopa-52 chemical SM COLOR CHEM USA

Polyester leveling Melevel -lpf MATEX BANGLADESHLTD

Bangladesh

Sequestering austol AUSTEX SPAIN

Soaping asugal-ALBI AUSTEX SPAIN

Wetting agent –proder-SCPC/LF AUSTEX SPAIN

White softener gensoft AUSTEX SPAIN

Fixing ecofix DR/SR Ecochem/AUTEX Sri-lanka

Leveling drimegen E2R/ Texotech FORTUNE TOP INC Taiwan

Anticrease-Pac(8460)Jintex ECO GD CONE FORTUNE TOP INC Taiwan

Gintex ECO GS CONE FORTUNE TOP INC Taiwan

Genifoam NS FORTUNE TOP INC TaiwanSpecial ChemicalsBrightener Leuco phor BSB Clariant INDONESEIA

Brightener sun white SUN RISE CHEM. Taiwan

Enzyme producto _EAPS-A/Genincor-Bf-1600/3500

GENENCOR Singapore

Dyebath Enzyme Techzymr-p 1600 GENENCOR Singapore

Dyeing Section


Silicon softener Gensoft-SA 852 FORTUNE TOP INC TaiwanOthersOthers Sodium Hydrose Chemicals Alif Chemicals ChinaDyesCiba blue FNR Dyes Swiss color Switzerland

Ciba brill Blue FNG FyesFGFN Swiss color Switzerland

Ciba red FN3G Dyes Swiss color Switzerland

Ciba red FNR Dyes Swiss color Switzerland

Ciba red WB Dyes Swiss color Switzerland

Ciba Navy SG Swiss color Switzerland

Ciba Red C2BL Swiss color Switzerland

Ciba Navy WB Swiss color Switzerland

Ciba yellow CRG Dyes Swiss color Switzerland

Ciba yellow S3R Swiss color Switzerland

Ciba yellow H2G Swiss color Switzerland

Ciba Navy FNB Swiss color Switzerland

Ciba Yellow F4G Dyes Swiss color Switzerland

Ciba Yellow DN2R Dyes Swiss color Switzerland

Ciba Orange FNR Dyes Swiss color Switzerland

Ciba Orange W3R Dyes Swiss color Switzerland

Dianix black CCR Dyes DyStar Switzerland

Dianix Blue SSB Dyes DyStar Switzerland

Dianix Navy CC Dyes DyStar Singapore

Dianix Yellow SEG Dyes DyStar Singapore

Drimarine Blue HFRL Dyes Clariant China/Pakistan

Drimarine BlueCLBRDyes Clariant China/Pakistan

Drimarine Red CL5B Dyes Clariant China/Pakistan

Drimarine Red RH3b Dyes Clariant China/Pakistan

Drimarine Scariate HF3G Dyes Clariant China/Pakistan

Drimarine Tarquise CLB Dyes Clariant China/Pakistan

Drimarine Yellow CL2R Dyes Clariant China/Pakistan

Drimarine Yellow HFR Dyes Clariant China/Pakistan

Reactive G. Yellow 3RS/MERL Kiri Dyes & Chemicals INDIA

Reactive black B Dyes /AB/5 Kiri Dyes & Chemicals INDIA

Reactive Red ME4BL Dyes Kiri Dyes & Chemicals INDIA

Reactive Yellow H4GL Dyes Kiri Dyes & Chemicals INDIA

Reactive Super black G Dyes/AG Kiri Dyes & Chemicals INDIA

Reactobond yellow HW Dyes/AEY Kiri Dyes & Chemicals INDIA

Dyeing Section


Reactobond Red Hw Dyes Kiri Dyes & Chemicals INDIA

Reactive Navy WB Kiri Dyes & Chemicals INDIA

Reattofex orange ME2RL Kiri Dyes & Chemicals INDIA

Remazol Navy RGB Dyes DyStar Singapore

Remazol Red RGB Dyes DyStar Singapore

Remazol Blue RSPL Dyes DyStar Singapore

Remazol RED RR Dyes DyStar Singapore

Remazol Blue RR Dyes DyStar Singapore

Remazol Yellow RR Dyes DyStar Singapore

Synozol Black DR Kyung-in-SyntheticCorporation

Korea

Synozol Red HF 6BN Kyung-in-SyntheticCorporation

Korea

Synozol Yellow H F2GR Kyung-in-SyntheticCorporation

Korea

Synozol brilliant blue KRL Kyung-in-SyntheticCorporation

Korea

Solacion red HE Solarfine Chemicals China

Reactive Turkish Blue Kiri Dyes & Chemicals INDIA

7.14. Amount of Salt & Alkali (mixed) on the basis of Shade%

Shade% (owf) Glauber salt (g/l) Soda ash (g/l) Caustic (g/l)

Red ≤ 4 80 5 1.2

Navy ≤ 4 80 5 1.2

Black ≤ 4 100 5 1.2

Dyeing Section


7.15.Process Flow Chart for Knit Dyeing: For Pink color

Fabric : Single Jersey Quantity : 1310 kg

GSM : 180 M: L=1:7 (During Pretreatment)

1.8 (During Dyeing)Color : Pink Water - 9200 lit (Pretreatment)

10500 lit (During Dyeing)

Recipe:

No. Commercial name of Dyes & Chemicals Amount(g/l or %)

Total amount

Pretreatment:1. Wetting Agent-Proder_SCPC/LD/NO-LF 0.5 4.48 kg2. Gintex ECO GS CONE (S.A) 0.1 896gm3 Peroxide Stabilizer SR/Stabilizer A/Stopa-52 0.4 3.584kg4 Anticrease-AULIT-PAC(8460) 0.8 7.360 kg5 Caustic soda 3.0 27.6 kg6 H2O2 2.75 25.3 kg7 Peroxide Killer Geizyme OEM/Cetatex PC 0.5 4.6 kg8 Acetic Acid 1.0 9.2 kg

Dye Bath Chemical:9 Acetic Acid 0.2 2.1 kg10 Gintex ECO GS CONE (S.A) 0.2 2.1 kg11 Anticrease-AULIT-PAC(8460) 0.8 8.4 kg12 Leveling Drimegen E2R/Secho IND/Jinleve 1.0 10.50 kg

Dyeing13 Rea yellow HW 0.01% 0.131 kg14 Rea. Orange-MEZRL 0.07% 0.917 kg15 Syno. Red-HF6BN 0.80% 10.48 kg16 Salt 30 314.4 kg17 Soda ash 8 83.84 kg

After treatment:18 Acetic Acid 1.0 9.2 kg19 Soaping Asugal-ALBI 0.6 5.520 kg20 Colour Softener Gensoft-100/150/ASUMIN B 0.7% 9.170 kg

Dyeing Section


Dyeing Flow Chart:

Pretreatment:

Fabric loading in the machine and magnet is attached to the fabric rope to ensure cutting ofthe fabric from the specific place.

Filling the bath with the required water & run the fabric for 10 min

Raise the temp. to 50°C @1.5°C/min and inject wetting agent, sequestering agent, H2O2

stabilizer & Anti creasing agent and run for 10 min at 500 C.

Raise temp. to 60°C @1.5°C/min process and linear dosing of caustic for 10 min

Raise temp. to 70°C @1.5°C/min process and linear dosing of H2O2 for 10 min.

Raise temp. to 105°C @1.5°C/min and run the process for 40 min.

Cooling the bath @1.5°C/min and drain at 80°C and then drain

Fill the bath with hot water from reserve tank and wash at 95°C for 10 min. then drain thebath and normal wash.

Apply peroxide killer and run at 70° C for 10 min then drain & wash the fabric.

Acetic acid dosing and pH check (4.5-5) and run 10 min. Then inject enzyme at 55°C and runfor 40 min

Raise temp. to 80°C and run 10 min which is called enzyme hot

Then drop the bath and wash for 2 times

Dyeing Section


Dyeing:

After-treatment:

Fill the bath and raise the temp. At 45°C apply acetic acid and check pH to 5

Inject Sequestering agent, Ant-creasing agent, Leveling agent run 10 min.

½ of total Salt dosing at 45°C for 10 min with linear dosing and run 10 min

Rest ½ Salt dosing at 45°C for 10 min with linear dosing and run 10 min

Dye linear dosing at 45°C for 40 min and after 20 min salt is sample checked.

If salt sample is ok then soda progressive dosing for 50 min at 450 C.

After 20 min soda sample is checked and color steam is given to 600 C

Sample checked after 10, 30, 40 min & after 10 min B.D. sample is checked

Then cooling the bath & rinse for 10 min & drain the bath

Fill the bath and raise temp. to 45°C and dosing acetic acid. Run 10 min then drain.

Unload the fabric from machine.

Fill the bath and raise temperature to 40°C and dosing softener. Fabric is treated for 20 min& sample is checked.

Fill the bath & apply soaping agent. Raise temp. to 95°C. Run 10 min and then drain

Dyeing Section


Figure 7. 7: Dyeing Curve

After-treatment

Wetting agent=0.5g/lSequestering agent=o.1g/lH2O2 stabilizer=0.4g/lAnt creasing agent=0.8g/l

LA=Caustic 3g/lB=H2O2 2.75g/lC=A.A. 1g/lx10’D=Enzyme 0.3g/l

E

Acetic Acid 0.2g/lSequestering agent 0.1g/lAnt-creasing agent 0.8g/lLeveling agent 1g/l

F= Acetic acid 1g/lG=soaping agent0.6g/lH= softener 7%

1-8= sampletaken for shadedevelopment

washRinse10’

1050Cx40’

B

A

C D E Dyes

Sodaash

Salt

40

50

60

110

70

80

90

100

0 50 100 150 200 250 300 350 400 450 500 550

DrainEn

zym

e ho

t

10’ 10’ 40’ 20’ 50’20’

1 2

3 4 5 6

F

G

H

Drain DrainDrainDrain &Unload

7

8

Coo

ling

Drain

nL

Fabric run 10’

Hotwash

Time (min)

Tem

pera

ture

(0 C )

H2O

2ki

ller

0.5

g/l

Dyeing30

G

Pre-treatment

Dyeing Section


Shade development :

Note:

When shade of one stage is ok then go for next stage (usually at 600C).

But, when color is already close to target shade at 600C after 10 min then, temp raiseto 700C and run for 10 min. Another shade will be checked after 10 min at 700C and ifshade is ok then bath drop.

When shade is light then color is added to the dye bath and run until required shade isobtained.

In above cases shade development swatch with time will be different.

Bath drop sample should be darker than the target shade & depending on the shadesoaping decision will be taken.

After 20’ of colordosing (Salt sample)

After 10 min of sodadosing (color steam

sample)

600aC x 10 min 600C x 30 min

Target Swatch

600C x 40 min orBD sample

After Acid After Soaping After Softener

Dyeing Section


7.16. Process Flow Chart for Knit Dyeing: For Black color

Fabric : 1x1 Rib Quantity : 1000 kg

GSM : 180 M: L - 1:7 (During Pretreatment)

1.8 (During Dyeing)

Color : 09A Black Water - 7000 lit (Pretreatment)


Recipe:


Total amount

Pretreatment:1. Jin Tex GD Conc. 1.0 7 kg

2. Jin Tex ECO GS CONE (S.A) 0.2 1.40 kg

Bio-polish

3 Acetic Acid 1.0 7.0 kg

4 Techzyme-P-1600 0.7 % 7.0 kg

Dye Bath Chemical:


6 Gintex ECO GS CONE (S.A) 0.2 2.1 kg

7 Anticrease-AULIT-PAC(8460) 0.8 8.4 kg

8 Leveling Drimegen E2R/Secho IND/Jinleve 1.0 10.50 kg

Dyeing

9 R. B. yellow HW 0.58% 5.8 kg

10 R.B. Red HW 1.04% 8 kg

11 Rea. Black B 10.7% 107 kg

12 Salt 80 640 kg

13 Soda ash 20 210 kg

14 Caustic 1 g/l 8 kg

After treatment:


16 Soaping Asugal-ALBI 0.6 4.20 kg

17 Colour Softener Gensoft-100/150/ASUMIN B 0.7% 7.0 kg

Dyeing Section


Dyeing Flow Chart:

Pretreatment & Dyeing:



Inject Jin Tex GD &Jin Tex GS to the dye bath and raise the temp to 95°C and run for 30 min

Cooling the machine & drain the bath

Raise temp. to 60°C @1.5°C/min process & apply acetic acid & run 20 min

Then drain the bath and check pH and set pH to 5

Apply dye bath enzyme at 40°C and raise temp. to 55°C and run 30 min.

Cooling the bath & at 45°C & and inject Sequestering agent, Ant-creasing agent, Leveling agent run10 min.

Salt dosing at 45°C for 10 min with linear dosing and run 10 min

Dye linear dosing at 45°C for 40 min and after 20 min salt is sample checked.

If salt sample is ok then soda progressive dosing for 50 min at 45°C.

After 20 min soda sample is checked and color steam is given to 60°C

Dyeing Section


After treatment:

Fill the bath and raise temp. to 45°C and dosing acetic acid. Run 10 min then drain.


Fill the bath and raise temp. to 40°C and dosing softener. Fabric is treated for 20 min &sample is checked.




Dyeing Section


Figure 7. 8: DyeingCurve For Black color

Rinse10’

30

D


E= Acetic acid 1g/l

F= soaping agent0.6g/l

G= softener 7%

1-8= sample takenfor shadedevelopment

Jin Tex GD conc. 2g/lJin Tex GS conc. 0.2 g/l

A

B=Acetic Acid 0.4g/lC=Texzyme-pl600 0.3g/l

D

95°Cx30’

Coo

ling

55°Cx30’

Dyeing

40

50

60

110

70

80

90

100

3 4 5 6

DrainA

Fabric run 10’

Ace

tic A

cid

1g/l

60° C

20 m

in

DrainC

B

Dyes

Sodaash

Salt

10’ 10’ 40’ 20’ 50’20’

1 2

E

G

H

Drain DrainDrainDrain &Unload

7

8

F

G

Time (min)

Tem

pera

ture

(° C )

0 50 100 150 200 250 300 350 400 450 500

Pre-treatment

Dyeing Section


Shade development process:

After 20’ of colordosing (Salt sample)

After 10 min of sodadosing (color steam

sample)

600C x 10 min 600C x 30 min



Target Swatch

Dyeing Section


7.17.Process Flow Chart for Knit Dyeing: for Black color

Fabric : 1x1 Rib Quantity : 1000 kg

GSM : 180 M: L -1:7 (During Pretreatment) & 1.8 (During Dyeing)

Color : 09A Black Water - 7000 lit (Pretreatment)


Recipe:


Total amount

Pretreatment:1. Wetting Agent-Proder_SCPC/LD/NO-LF 0.5 4.48 kg2. Gintex ECO GS CONE (S.A) 0.1 896gm3 Peroxide Stabilizer SR/Stabilizer A/Stopa-52 0.4 3.584kg4 Anticrease-AULIT-PAC(8460) 0.8 7.360 kg5 Caustic soda 3.0 27.6 kg6 H2O2 2.75 25.3 kg

7 Peroxide Killer Geizyme OEM/Cetatex PC 0.5 4.6 kg8 Acetic Acid 1.0 9.2 kg

Dye Bath Chemical:9 Acetic Acid 0.2 2.1 kg10 Gintex ECO GS CONE (S.A) 0.2 2.1 kg11 Anticrease-AULIT-PAC(8460) 0.8 8.4 kg12 Leveling Drimegen E2R/Secho IND/Jinleve 1.0 10.50 kg

Dyeing13 R. Red RR 0.48% 6.288 kg14 Rea. Turq Blue 1.80% + 18% 27.824 kg15 Sola Blue Rspl 2.94%+ 10% 42.365 kg16 Salt 80 840 kg17 Soda 20 210 kg

After treatment:18 Acetic Acid 1.0 9.2 kg19 Soaping Asugal-ALBI 0.6 5.520 kg20 Colour Softener Gensoft-100/150/ASUMIN B 0.7% 9.170 kg

Dyeing Section


Dyeing Flow Chart:

Pretreatment:



Raise the temp. to 50°C @ 1.5°C/min and inject wetting agent, sequestering agent, H2O2

stabilizer & Anti creasing agent and run for 10 min at 50°C.

Raise temp. to 60°C @ 1.5°C/min process and linear dosing of caustic for 10 min

Raise temp. to 70° C @ 1.5°C/min process and linear dosing of H2O2 for 10 min.

Raise temp. to 105°C @ 1.5°C/min and run the process for 40 min.

Cooling the bath @ 1.5°C/min and drain at 80°C and then drain

Fill the bath with hot water from reserve tank and wash at 95°C for 10 min. then drain thebath and normal wash.

Apply peroxide killer and run at 70°C for 10 min then drain & wash the fabric.

Acetic acid dosing and pH check (4.5-5) and run 10 min. Then inject enzyme at 55°C and runfor 40 min

Raise temp. to 80°C and run 10 min which is called enzyme hot

Then drop the bath and wash for 2 times

Dyeing Section


Dyeing:

After treatment:

Fill the bath & raise temp. to 45°C and dosing acetic acid. Run 10 min then drain.


Fill the bath and raise temp. to 40°C and dosing softener. Fabric is treated for 20 min &sample is checked.


Fill the bath and raise the temp. At 45°C apply acetic acid and check pH to 5

Inject Sequestering agent, Ant-creasing agent, Leveling agent run 10 min.

Dye linear dosing at 45°C for 40 min and run 10 min.

½ Salt dosing at 45°C for 10 min with linear dosing and run 10 min

Remaining ½ Salt dosing at 45°C in10 min with linear dosing and run 10 min

Raise temp. to 80°C and run 20 min for dye migration & then cooling to 60°C.

Check sample & if ok then soda progressive dosing for 50 min at 45°C.

After 20 min soda sample is checked and color steam is given to 60°C



Dyeing Section


Figure 7. 9: Dyenig Curve for Tequish color (Migration process)

After-treatment

Dyeing

Rinse10’

Sodaash

Dyes

Enzy

me

hot

1050Cx40’

L

Fabric run 10’30

Tem

pera

ture

(0 C )

Hotwash

B

A

Wetting agent=0.5g/lSequestering agent=o.1g/lH2O2 stabilizer=0.4g/lAnt creasing agent=0.8g/l

LA=Caustic 3g/lB=H2O2 2.75g/lC=A.A. 1g/lx10’D=Enzyme 0.3g/l

E


F= Acetic acid 1g/lG=soaping agent0.6g/lH= softener 7%

1-8= sampletaken for shadedevelopment

Drain Wash

800Cx20’

40

50

60

110

70

80

90

100 G

F H

Drain &Unload

7

8

Drain DrainDrain

CH

2O2

kille

r0.

5 g/

l

Coo

ling

Normal hotwash

E

1 2 3 4 5 6

10’40’ 10’ 10’ 10’10’

Salt1/2

Salt1/2D

Time (min)0 5

0100 150 200 250 300 350 400 450 500 550 600

MigrationProcess

Finishing Section


Shade development process:

Note:

Shade check will be started after cooling from migration process at 600C. Color isnormally checked with the process.

Problems can occurred during migration process (uneven shade). At that time temp.is raised again then treat the fabric.

In above cases shade development swatch with time will be different.

Bath drop sample should be darker than the target shade & depending on the shadesoaping decision will be taken.

After migrationprocess (Salt sample)

After 10 min ofsoda dosing

600C x 10 min 600C x 30 min



Target Swatch

Finishing Section


7.18. Auxiliaries and its function

Chemical name Function

Anti creasingAgent

Acts as lubricant and reduce friction between machine parts andfabric. Thus prevent crease mark formation in the fabric. Those are oilfree substance.

SequesteringAgent

Used to remove hardness and metal ion present in dyeing liquor.Hardness of dyeing liquor can occurred due to hardness of fabric afterpretreatment which is 35 ppm and also from salt which is 70 ppm

Leveling Agent Leveling agent reduces the molecular size of the dye and it will slowerthe penetration of dye into the fabric. As a result, uniformly dyedfabric is obtained.

Enzyme Enzyme is used they remove the protruding fibbers from fabric. Theycan act their function with the temp. of 550C and with pH of 4.5-5.

Wetting agent To reduce surface tension of water thus ensures easy penetrating ofchemicals and dye to the fabric.

Anti Foamingagent

To eliminate foam during dyeing process. Foam arises from watercirculation and material which quickly by, also from auxiliaries whichcan generate foam.

H2O2 Hydrogen peroxide is used for bleaching of cotton fabric and toremove natural color.

PeroxideStabilizer

Peroxide stabilizer is used for slowing down the decomposition ofHydrogen Peroxide because if decomposition of H2O2 is more than theproduction of HO2

- then it can lead to cellulose breakage.

Peroxide Killer Used to remove peroxide remaining in the fabric. Otherwise the fabricwill damaged due to presence of peroxide.

Salt Salt acts as electrolyte and increase absorption of reactive dye intofibre. salt increase exhaustion of dyes.

Finishing Section


Soda Ash Addition of soda ash causes dissociation of some hydroxyl group inthe cellulose and cellulosate ion begins to react with dye.

Acetic Acid Acetic acid is used to maintain pH of the dye bath in the acidicmedium and also used for neutralization from basic medium to theneutral nedium.

Softener The function of softener is to soft the hand feel of the fabric andincrease the luster of the fabric.

NaOH Caustic Soda is used for ensuring alkali media in the dye bath and alsoreduce the amount of soda that is used for dark shade.

Soaping agent The function of soaping agent is to remove unfixed dyes present in thefabric.

7.19.Dyeing faults Causes and Remedies:

Uneven dyeing:

Causes:

Uneven Pretreatment Improper addition of color Improper addition of chemical Using dyes of high fixation properties Less control of dyeing machine Less circulation time

Remedies:

By ensuring even pretreatment By proper addition of color and chemicals Correct circulation time By controlling the dyeing machine properly

Finishing Section


Batch to batch Shade variation

Causes:

Using improper dyes and chemicals Incorrect pretreatment procedure Batch to batch weight variation of fabric Batch to batch chemicals and dyes variation (lot variation) Improper dosing of dyes and chemicals

Remedies:

By using standard dyes and chemicals By correcting the pretreatment procedure By maintaining batch to batch weight variation By avoiding lot mixing of dyes and chemicals By correcting the dosing time of dyes and chemicals By following different dyeing parameter.

Dark colored spots:

Causes:

Dyestuff precipitation during dyeing Incompatibility of dyestuff used for producing combined shade Too high dyestuff concentration in the dye bath Precipitation of unabsorbed dyestuff during after treatment

Remedies:

By ensuring proper dyeing condition By selecting proper dyestuff By checking the solubility limit of the dyestuff before dyeing By ensuring proper after treatment

Patchy dyeing:

Causes:

Due to hardness of water Due to faulty color addition Due to faulty injection of alkali Due to improper salt addition Due to improper PH of solution

Finishing Section


Remedies:

By using proper sequestering agent By correcting the color addition By correcting the salt addition By proper injection of alkali By maintaining the PH level of the solution

Crease mark:

Causes:

Poor opening of the fabric rope Due to high speed of machine running Unequal pump pressure and reel speed

Remedies:

By maintaining proper pump pressure and reel speed. By controlling the speed of the machine. Correct opening of the fabric rope.

Roll to roll variation:

Causes:

Poor migration property of dye. Hardness of water. Improper dyes solubility. Faulty machine speed.

Remedies:

Use standard dyes and chemicals Proper machine speed. Using soft waste.

Finishing Section


8 CHAPTER : FINISHING SECTION

Finishing Section


8.1.Finishing:

Textile finishing is a term commonly applied to different process that the textile materialunder go after pretreatment, dyeing or printing for final embellishment to enhance thereattractiveness and sale appeal as well as for comfort and usefulness.

Objects of finishing:

The aim of finishing is to render textile goods fit for their purpose or end use. Besides that,finishing can be done for achieving the following purposes-

a) To improve fabric attractiveness.

-By modification of fabric appearance (Calendaring, Optical brightening)

-By altering fabric handle (Softening, Stiffening)

-Control of fabric dimension (Sanforising, Compacting)

b) To improve service ability.

-Protection of fabric (Flame proofing, Water proofing)

-Improved performance (Water repellency, Raising)

-Easy care properties (Resin finish, Crease recovery)

After dyeing, knit fabric is required to finish. During dyeing all knit fabric are dyed in

tubular form. According to buyer's requirement knit fabric are finished in Open form or

tubular form. The tubular and open finishing sequences of N. A. Z. Bangladesh Ltd are

given bellow:

Types of finishing:1) Chemical finishing:

2) Mechanical finishing:

Finishing effects: Easy - care Crease recovery.

Dimensional stability.

Good abrasion resistance.

Improved tear strength.

Good sew ability

Finishing Section


Soft or stiff handle.

Shine or luster

8.2.Specification of Finishing Machines used in N.A.Z.:

Table 8.1: List of machine in Finishing Section

Tube SquizerMachine Name Tubular SquizerManufacturer Bianco

Country of origin ItalyCapacity 8000 kg

Maximum speed 80 m/minNo of Chamber 03No of Padder 3 pair

Tube dryerMachine Name Tensionless dryerManufacturer Lk & LH Co. LtdCountry of origin TaiwanCapacity 8000 kgNo of Chamber 04

Tube CompectorMachine Name Tube CompactorManufacturer FerraroCountry of origin ItalyCapacity 6000 kgNo of padder 02Maximum speed 42 m/minMaximum temperature 200 oCMaximum padder pressure 33Highest overfeed 40Highest dia 52”

Finishing Section


Open SquizerMachine name SquizerManufacturer BiancoCountry of origin ItalyMaximum speed 90 m/minMaximum dia 120”

StenterMachine Name StenterManufacturer BrucknerMaximum speed 50 m/minMaximum overfeed 60%No of chamber 6Maximum temperature 250oC

Open CompectorMachine Name CompactorManufacturer FerraroCountry of origin ItalyMaximum speed 42 m/minMaximum overfeed 15%

UltrasoftMachine Name UltrasoftManufacturer LaferCountry of origin ItalyMaximum speed 15 m/min

Finishing Section


8.3.Observation of Different Finishing M/C:

8.4. Tube Squeezer or De-Watering M/C

After dyeing process from the dyeing machine then the fabrics arc ready for dc-watering.This is the process to remove the water from the fabric partially by squeezing. This is themain function of the squeezing machine. But here also control the some important factor ofthe fabric quality.

Important parts

• Twist detector

• Expander

• Padder

The basic function of the squeezing m/c:

To remove the water from the fabric. To control the width of the fabric. To control the length of the fabric. To control the spirality of the fabric. To control the over feeding system. To increase the softness of the fabric. To remove the crease mark of the fabric.

Table 8. 2: Fabric passage & function of diff. parts of Tube squeezer:

Fabric path onm/c

Function

Turn Table Fabric trolley is placed on the turn table which can rotate in clockwise oranticlockwise direction. It is connected to the de-twister sensor via inverter. Itwill rotate to remove twist from the fabric. Fabric is feed to the machine fromthis trolley.

J-Box Fabric is passed through J- box padder in which padder pressure can bemaintained in the range of 1-5 bar. 20% water is extracted here.

Fabric is then stored in flexible tray which can move up & down direction. Whenfabric load is high then the tray will automatically lowered & s. When fabricload is reduced the tray tops the feeding of the fabric. When fabric load isreduced will move upward & fabric feeding will be started again.

De-Twister A sensor device is present here, which can detect twist in the fabric. If any twistgoes through the de-twister, it will rotate in clockwise or anticlockwise direction

Finishing Section


to remove twist and easy passage of fabric.

Dia-extensionr/r

This is used to control the dia of tubular knit fabric. This devise holds the twosides of the fabric in tube form and two sensors are present here, which detecthole in the fabric. If any hole is appeared then the sensor will off the m/c

Water Tray Fabric is washed with water to remove unfixed dyes and impurities. Fabric isringed continuously during the passage and constant water level (80 Lt) ismaintained here. Emersion r/r is used to immerse the fabric to the water tray.

Air-pressurer/r

Air is applied to make the fabric in balloon form. This will help to prevent creasemark formation due to padder pressure.

Padder Fabric is squeeze here with the help of two large padderes to remove 60% water

Pilling Tray After squeezing the fabric will be stored in pilling tray which relaxes the fabric.Sensor device is present which detect fabric load. When fabric load is high thenfabric feeding will be reduced automatically.

ChemicalTray

Fabric is passed through the chemical tray which is connected to the chemicaltank. Chemicals can be applied to the fabric by this tray. Immersion r/r is used toensure maximum wet medium.

Air-pressurer/r

Air is applied to make the fabric in balloon form. This will help to prevent creasemark formation due to padder pressure.

Padder Fabric is squeeze here with the help of two large padderes to remove excesschemical. Padder pressure can be maintained as required but will be less thenback padder.

Shaft Fabric dia extension is done with the help of shaft. Sensor is present here todetect hole. Fabric dia will be kept more than the required dia because fabricremain 40% wet after squeezing.

Delivery zone Fabric is delivered via folder which moves like pendulum to fold the fabric.

Finishing Section


Figure 8. 1: fabric passage on Tube squeezer m/c

Table 8. 3: Dia extenion on tube squeezer m/c

Fabric Dia extension (%)

Single jersey 4-5

1x1 rib 10-12

Interlock 8-10

Fancy rib fabric 8

Mesh fabric 10-12

Fleece fabric 8-10

Finishing Section


8.5.Relax Dryer

Dryer machine is used to dry the fabric with the help of the steam. Besides drying itcontrols the shrinkage and prepares the fabric for the next process

Important Parts:

o Conveyor neto Chambero Burnero Exhaust air fano Over feed rollero Filter neto Fano Nozzle

The basic function of the dryer:

To dry the fabric.To control the over feed system (Shrinkage control)To control the GSM of the fabric.

Controlling Points

o Overfeed (%): It depends on fabric structureo Temperature: It depends on color.o Speed: It depends on fabric construction and color. For higher GSM lower the

speed.

Table 8. 4: Fabric passage & function of diff. parts of Relax Dryer:

Fabric path in m/c Function

Fabric Trolley Fabric trolley is placed in front of the m/c & fabric is passed overguide r/r. Those rollers maintain uniform tension of fabric &ensure uniform passage of fabric.

Wheel Wheel is used to control tubular fabric dia. Fabric dia in thiswheel will be more than the required finished dia.

Over Feed r/r Over feed the fabric in the dryer.

Net Fabric enters in the dryer in contact with net. There are 4 sets ofnet which extend throughout the dryer. Each net forms endlessloop. Those nets provides 3 times more dwell time to the fabric.Net position is maintained with the help of sensor.

Finishing Section


Heating Chamber Heating is done with super heated steam. Steam is entered to theheat exchanger through steam pipe. There are 4 heat exchangersthrough which heat is applied to the fabric.

Blower Blowers are used to spread heat from heat exchanger through thewhole dryer. There are 8 blowers which are run by individualmotor.

Out line Exhaust fan is used to remove exhausted air from the drying zone.

Folder Folder delivers the fabric to the trolley. Fabric feeding to thefolder is controlled by delivery r/r.

8.6.Tube Compactor

Tube compactor is used to finish knit fabric in tube form;

Important parts

Overfeed rollerExpanderBlanketSteam sprayersCylinderTeflon covers

The basic functions of the Tube compactor machine

• To control the GSM. (Increase & decrease).

• To control the dia.

• To control the shrinkage. (Increase & decrease).

Finishing Section


Table 8. 5: Fabric passage & function of diff. parts of Tubular Compactor:

Fabric path on m/c Function

Trolley Fabric trolley is placed in front of the machine. From this trolley fabric isfeed to the machine.

Feeding zone Tube fabric is passed through the wheel to control fabric dia. Sensor ispresent here and if any hole is going to pass through this section, the m/cautomatically stops.

Steam Tray Steam tray is present after feeding zone. Steam is applied to soften thefabric. On the top of this zone exhaustion unit is present to remove extrasteam.

Fabric SpreadingZone

The spreader spread the fabric and set the required width of the fabric.Magnet is used to hold the wheel which control fabric width. Sensor is alsopresent here to ensure proper feeding and to detect hole.

Steam Supply Zone Steam is applied to heat and wet the fabric for proper compacting action.Steam supporter is present here to support steaming action. Extra steam willout through steam out line.

Compacting Zone The fabric is passed through compacting zone. Compacting action is doneby the action of heated cylinder in the lower side and blanket in the upperside. The blanket is wrapped over the cylinder and proper compaction isdone by the help of blanket. Sensor is present to fix the blanket.

Fabric DeliveryZone

Fabric folder delivers the fabric to the delivery tray. Here fabric supporter ispresent to press the fabric ply and when required amount of fabric is storedin the delivery tray, it will automatically pass folded fabric to delivery zone

Finishing Section


Figure 8- 1: FERRARO Comptex R Tube Compactor (Fabric Passing Path)

Controlling parameters of tubular Compactor:

Speed = 0-40

Over feed = 0-30%

Compaction = 0-33%

Temp. = 80-1200C

Figure 8. 2: fabric passage diagram in tube compactor machine

Note: Fabric dia extension, speed, compaction & overfeed will vary depending on thefabric type and finishing requirementsControlling Points

8.7.Slitting Machine or open squeezer:

Manufacturer: Bianco

Machine parts:

Rotary blade: To cut the fabric through break wales line

Ring: To help cutting

Guide Roller: To guide the fabric to plaiting

Plaiting: To plate the fabric

Sensor: sense for cutting through break wales line

Finishing Section


Fabric Passage:

Figure 8. 3: Fabric passage in open squeezer m/c.

Controlling parameters of open squeezer:

1. Speed : 0-100m/min2. Padder pressure : 0-10 bar3. Air Pressure : 1.5 bar

Note:

1. In case of light color padder pressure should be low. Otherwise shade will belighter.

2. If the padder is not clean, then line mark can appear in the fabric.3. If low gsm S/J fabric is processing, then padder pressure and speed will be

maximum.4. If high gsm fabric is processing, then padder pressure and speed will be minimum.5. Padder pressure and speed will vary according to the fabric type.6. In case of Lycra single jersey fabric, speed & padder pressure will be minimum.

Note: Fabric dia extension, speed, compaction & overfeed will vary depending on thefabric type and finishing requirements.

Finishing Section


8.8.Open Compactor

The basic functions of the Open compactor machine is to compact the fabric in open form&

• To control the GSM. (Increase & decrease).

• To control the dia.

• To control the shrinkage. (Increase & decrease).

Important parts

• Over-feed roller• Blanket• Steam sprayers• Cylinder• Tell on covers

Figure 8. 4: Feraro open compactor

Controlling parameters of tubular Compactor:

Speed = 0-40Over feed = 0-30%Compaction = 0-33%Temp. = 80-1200C

Finishing Section


Fabric passage in Open Compactor:

Figure 8. 5: fabric passage on open compactor

8.9.Bruckner Stenter:

Stenter machine in very important for finishing knit fabric in open form. It can be used forthe following functions:

Apply chemical and softener To dart set the T/C fabric Drying of fabric To control width Curing of fabric Apply pigment dyeing To control GSM To control shrinkage To decrease spirality To decrease bowing effect Surface coating for teflon finish Apply soil release chemical finish Heat set for cotton/lycra fabric Etc.

Finishing Section


Figure 8. 6: Bruckner Stenter machine

Table 8. 6: Fabric passage & function of diff. parts of stenter machine:

Fabric in different Partsof the m/c.

Function

Feeding through thetension r/r

The fabric is fee through tension r/r and passes in between two centeringdevice to straight the fabric. Here expender 2 rollers are present toensure uniform feeding of the fabric.

Fabric in padding zone If the fabric is treated by using 2 padders then, at first the fabric isimmersed to the water tray by immersion r/r then squeezed by padder.Then the fabric is passed through chemical tray where softener is used.If one padder is used then, only chemical application is done by thepadder. After chemical tray the fabric is squeezed to remove excesschemicals. Here padder pressure is less than the front padder pressure &will be 0-10bar

Tension adjust r/r Here tension is adjusted by sensor. The tension r/r will move upwarddirection if fabric feeding is lowered due to any reson.

Sensors Fabric course line is continuously monitor and result is shown on thescreen. Number of total sensors is 8 and placed side by side through thewidth wise direction off the machine. With this result bowing andslanting of fabric is controlled.

Control unit Here monitor is present which shows fabric position graph of the courseline, speed, temperature in different zone, over feed for left & rightfeeding r/r. In this position bowing con be automatically controlled viacontrol unit.

Finishing Section


Mahalo r/r Mahalo rollers are used to control the bowing effect from fabric. Thiswill maintain the fabric position and when sensor sense that bowing orslanting is appeared then this r/r will fix that. Number of total bowing r/r2 and other 2 supporters are present.

Overfeed r/r Over feed is given via this r/r. 0-60 % over feed can be given dependingon the fabric type.

Width adjusting device There are two plates at the two ends of the machine which removecurling of the fabric and also dust. If any hole is obtain then, sensor stopsthe m/c

Wheel Attach the fabric to the pin of the chain.

Brush There are 2 brushes which ensure the fabric is attached to the pin.

Pin rail Pin rail is used to covey the fabric to the heating chamber. There are twochain rails, one in each side and forms endless loop throughout themachine from chain entry zone to heating chamber.

Steam tray There is steam tray on the underside of feeding zone for steamapplication.

Heating chamber Here heat is applied to the fabric in six heating chamber. Heatingarrangement is done via thermo oil and there are 6 heating chambers.Blower is used to spread heated air throughout the chamber, one fromupper side another from lower side of the fabric. There are 2 exhaustfans in each chamber to remove residual heated air. There is oil line inletand outlet for continuous passing through heat exchanger to the oilboiler. Exhaust air line is present on the upper side of the heatingchamber. Heat is increased after each chamber towards the end.

Delivery Zone Fabric is delivered through some tension r/r and then passed via folder tothe fabric trolley.

Controlling parameters of Bruckner Stenter:

Maximum capacity: 12 ton per day

Maximum dia: 120 inch

Gsm control 60%

Finishing Section


Maximum dia control 5”

Shade control: up to 95%

Hydro Extractor:

Fig: Hydro extractor

Controlling Points

a. Temperature- It depends on color construction and composition of the fabric.

For S/J the temp is 150oC and 170oC for stripe fabrics.

b. Over feed-Over feed increases the GSM of the fabric.

c. Width setting-Higher width setting reduces the GSM

d. Speed-It depends on construction and amount of moisture on the fabric.

Finishing Section


8.10. Ultra-soft m/c:

Ultra soft machine is used to increase softness of fabric. This is a mechanical process offinishing.

Table 8. 7: Fabric passage & function of diff. parts of Ultra soft m/c

Fabric path on m/c Function

Trolley Fabric trolley is placed in front of the machine. From this trolley fabric isfeed to the machine.

Feeding zone Tube fabric is passed through some tension r/r. those rollers ensures properfeeding of the fabric to the machine.

Auto controller Here sensor is present to detect the sewing line in the fabric. When sewingline is appeared then the sensor will slower the drum speed of the machine.If this is not done there is possibility to open up the sewing. Because hightension is occurred during the passing of the fabric to the carbon brush ordrum r/r thus drum speed is lowered.

Expander r/r This is used to spread the fabric and to feed the fabric in the machine. Here2 expender rollers are present.

Carbon Roller unit Fabric is then passed over the carbon r/r where 6 carbon brushes are present.Those brushes along with the drum rotate in the opposite direction of thefabric. Fabric face side will be in contact with the carbon brush. On the topof this zone, blower is present to blow dust produced due to brushing of thefabric. Number of blower is 8 and blowing will vary depending on thefabric type. In the lower side, suction unit is present to suck the dust andconveyed to the outer duct. The whole unite is covered with glass cover toensure dust free environment

Bitter and brushr/r

Fabric is then passed through the bitter and brush roller to remove dustresidual to the fabric. Exhaust sensor is present here to exhaust dust fromthe fabric.

Delivery unit Fabric is delivered to the trolley in folded form to the trolley. folding deviceis used to fold the fabric.

Finishing Section


Controlling parameters:

Fabric speed : 12-20m/min

Carbon Brush speed : 8-40 m/min

Dia reduction : 5-25%

Fabric pressure : 30-40 kg

Taker in tension : 18-25

Note:

1. If speed of carbon brush is high then softness will be high

2. Softening action is done on the face side of the fabric.

3. At least 5% gsm of the fabric will reduce after brushing.

4. Dust storage unit is present.

5. Dia of the fabric will reduce after brushing (ex-20%) and thus fabric must run to thestenter m/c after brushing.

8.11. Brushing machine

By the brushing machine back side of the fleece fabric is brushed.

Table 8.8: Fabric passage & function of diff. parts of Brushing m/c:

Fabric pathon m/c

Function

Trolley Fabric trolley is placed in front of the machine. From this trolley fabric isfeed to the machine. Fabric is feed to the machine so that the back side ofthe fleece fabric should be in contact with the brushing unit.

Feeding zone Tube fabric is passed through some tension r/r. those rollers ensuresproper feeding of the fabric to the machine. There are some expenderrollers in the machine which ensures proper feeding of the fabric to them/c

Fabric in Brushing action is done with the help of brushing roller which consists of

Finishing Section


brushing unit 24 rollers with sharp pinned surface like carding r/r in carding m/c. 12rollers are move along with the fabric which have rpm more than thefabric. Other 12 rollers are move in the opposite direction of the fabric.Combine action of all brushing r/r will brush the loops in fleece fabric.

Blower andsuction unit

Blowing arrangement is present on the machine to remove dust producedduring brushing. There is exhaust unit on the lower side of the brushingunit to exhaust dust.

Guide r/r Fabric is conveyed to the front side of the machine with the help of someguide rollers. The fabric is delivered to the front side of the m/c

Delivery unit Fabric is delivered to the trolley in folded form to the trolley. Foldingdevice is used to fold the fabric.

Sample:

Fleece fabric before brush Fleece fabric after brush

Finishing Section


Figure 8. 7: Brushing machne

Note:

1. Brushing action is done on the back side of the fleece fabric

2. Fabric is run in m/c for 3-6 times until the target is achieved.

3. Gsm of the fabric will reduce.

4. This is a mechanical action and once produced cannot be changed.

Finishing Section


8.12. Fabric Inspection:

The finished fabric may have different kinds of faults. This may occur during Knitting,dyeing or finishing. If the fabric delivered then the quality of the fabric may not be goodand the buyer will reject the finished garments. For this reason careful inspection of thisfinished fabric is so important. In finished fabric the following faults are generally found:

Faults Indicating sybleHole H

Dye stain DSOil stain OS

Chemical stain CSSlubs S

Lycra Out LOFly Yarn FY

Insect Spots ISCrease Mark CRUneven shade USNeedle Line NLThick – Thin TT

Bowing B

Neps N

In N.A.Z Bangladesh Ltd. 4 points system is used for calculating fabric acceptance:4-points system

In four points system the points are defined on the basis of defect size as shown below:

Size of the defect Penalty

7.5 cm or less 1 points

Over 7.5 cm but less than 15 cm 2 points

Over 15 cm but less than 22.5 cm 3 points

Over 22.5 cm 4 points

Any hole 4 points

Finishing Section


Acceptance Calculation

Roll length in meter = ATotal points found = BAcceptance Value = B/A x 100 points per 100 meter

Acceptance range

Range Grade

<40 points A41 – 60 points B61 – 80 points C

Above 80 points Reject

If the fabric is found within acceptance limit then it is delivered to Garments section. But ifthe fabric fault is so high that cross the acceptance limit then it is rejected.

8.13. Faults of fabrics in finishing section:

Table 9- 1: Faults of fabrics at finishing section

FABRICFAULTS &

RelatedDept.

IMAGE CAUSES REMIDIES

HoleDyeing

Due to problematiicnozzle in dyeingm/c some holesmay produce infabric duringdyeing.

Nozzles must be cleanedtime to time & maintanaceshould should be doneproperly.

Finishing Section


Unevenshade

dyenig fault

Due to faultydyeing

Bleaching & Re-dyeingH2O2=3g/lNaOH=2g/lDetergent =0.5g/lS.A.=0.5g/l

Softenerstain

Finishing

Improper mixing ofsolution.

Washing with:wetting agent & detergent:0.5g/lAcid: 3g/lTemp. : 900CTime: 10min

Lycra burnFinishing +

Dyeing

Due to improperheat set.

Heat set must be donecarefully.

WrongSlitting

Finishing

Its causes due tooperator

carelessness.sometimes workers doesntslit fabric through

slitting mark.

Operators have to slitfabric through slittingmark or fed fabric in

slitting m/c in proper wayso that m/c can slit fabric

through slitting mark.

Rub MarkDyeing fault

Due to carelessnessof operator.

WashingSoaping agent:0.5g/lTemperature:550CTime: 15min

Finishing Section


Missingyarn

knittingfault

Yarn breakage orcarelessness 0f theoperator.

Automatic yarn stoppershould be repaired.Operators must becarefull.

Flycontamination knitting

fault

During knitting, ifany dirt, dust, orany foreign particlepasses into the yarnand the fabric isknitted with thisdirt or fly yarn.

Knitting machine shouldbe clean.

Pressed-offstich

knittingfault

Yarn breaks beforethe yarn feeder.Yarn package

windingfaults, poorpackage build-up.Fibre fly block theyarn guids, feedersetc.

Operator must be careful.

Needlebroken

Knittingfault

1.Due to dirtdeposuition inneedle this problemoccurred.2.This problen alsocan occur due toyarn tensionvariation.

1.Yarn tension hav tominimize.2.Needle must be cleanedbefore production of anynew fabric.

Finishing Section


Thick &ThinKnittingfault

Its causes due toyarn problem.ifthick & thin placesremain in yarn &fabric is knittedwith thatyarn,then,thisproblem found infabric.

Yarn should be carefullyselected.

Pin holeKnitting

1.Improper tension2.Same drive forboth knit & tuckstitch.3.curved needlelatch.

1.Different drive have tomaintained.2.Needle has to change.

Waviness This sturctureconsist of plain &

lacost design wherestitch length for

tuck stitch is keptsame as all knitloops.As a result

waviness hasproduced in lacost

part.

Different SL for tuckstitch must be kept byadjusting VDQ pulley.

Garments Section


9 CHAPTER: GARMENTS SECTION

Embroidery Section


9.1.Organ gram of cutting department

Manager,

Cutting

▼

Cutting

In-Charge

▼

CuttingSupervisor

▼

▼ ▼ ▼ ▼ ▼ ▼

Cutter

man

Scissor

man

Cuttinghelper

Sticker

man

Bend-knifecutter

Writer

man

Embroidery Section


9.2. Fabric spreading section:

◘ The fabric is spread face to back.

◘ The width of the fabric or lay is defined by the fabric diameter as developed by theknitting department in correspondence with some predetermined calculation by theMerchandising department, which is done with repeat to the order specifications as givenby the buyer.

◘ Even the lay length is not fixed & it is done or calculated while laying the fabric by thetrial and error method.

9.3. Marker Type:

I. Non sectional marker is used irrespective of the order or the style.

II. The marker length is not pre determined and a particular order style may have moreone spreads, each with different marker lengths.

III. Marker is drawn on the top layer of the fabric with contrasting chalks & sometimeseven with pen. Therefore, if actually reduces the works of the cutting department.

IV. Marker efficiency is not checked .Therefore; there is no control & effort to gainmaximum marker efficiency.

V. Since pattern parts are few and simple, we can certainly use sectional markers as evennon-sectional markers do not have very high efficiency.

VI. Workers should be aware of splicing right at the defect and not leave any allowancewhile cutting.

9.4. Bundling and Ticketing:

It is always taken care that, there are 25-30 pieces in the bundle as per ISO: 9001 norms. Aticket is attached to each of the bundle, which has the following parameters:

• Order Number:

• Color:

• Bundle no:

• Cut no.

Embroidery Section


9.5. Cutting equipments

Fig.: process of sample cutting & other

9.6. Machine specification:

SLno.

M/C name Brand/Model Features Total m/c Qty

1 Fabric Inspection Made in USAwith auto

speed controller

1 Set

2 Cutting Machine Eastman Model No629

11 Sets

3 Band Knife Eastman EC – 700 3 Sets

4 Dies Cutting M/C H Schwable Inc Made in USA 1 Sets

5 Dies Cutting M/C MF 25 Atom Italy 2 Sets

6 End Cutter Eastman Lay Cutting 10 Sets

7 Cutting Tables USA 60 X 6 2 Sets

Embroidery Section


8 Cutting Tables Taiwan 52 X 6 4 Sets

9 Cutting Tables Taiwan 48 X 6 3 Sets

10 Laser Light Eastman 2 Sets

11 Cutting Gloves Eastman 17 Sets

12 Inter Lining Cutting Local 52” Width 1 Set

Total 57 Sets

9.7.Sewing section

Specification of machines in sewing section:

S/L Type of Machine Brand No ofm/c

country oforigin

1 Single Needle lock stitch JUKI 278 JAPAN

2 Single Needle lock stitch JUKI 160 JAPAN

3 Over lock 4 thread JUKI 225 JAPAN


5 Over lock 4 thread Top dowen JUKI 2 JAPAN

6 Over lock 4 thread Back latch JUKI 10 JAPAN

7 Over lock 4 thread Cylinder JUKI 5 JAPAN


9 Cylinder Bed Flat lock PEGASUS 47 JAPAN



Embroidery Section



13 Flat Bed Flat lock PEGASUS 18 JAPAN



16 Feed of the Arm YAMATO 8 JAPAN

17 Button Hole JUKI 12 JAPAN

18 Button Stitch JUKI 12 JAPAN

19 Ber Tack JUKI 5 JAPAN

20 Picoating KANSAI 3 JAPAN

21 Needle Detector CINTEX 2 ENG:AND

22 Fusing Machine HASHIMA 2 JAPAN

23 Rib Cutter (3 way) CALIFORNIA 2 USA

24 Rib Cutter (Single) 2 TAIWAN

25 Band Knife EASTMAN 2 JAPAN

26 Cutting Machine KM 10 JAPAN

27 Vacuam Table NAOMOTO 50 JAPAN

28 Heater less Iron NAOMOTO 50 JAPAN

29 Label Cutter and Folder 1 TAIWAN

30 Snap Button Machine YKK 10 GERMANY

31 Thread Sucker NAOMOTO 2 THAILAND

32 3 Needle, 5 Thread Cylinder bedInterlock Machine with FabricTrimmer

PEGASUS 44 SINGAPORE

Embroidery Section


TOTAL= 1037

9.8.Other Sewing Equipments

S/L M/C name Brand/Model Feature totalm/cQty

1 Fusing Machine Hashima 600B Made in Japan 1 set

2 Fusing Machine Kanegisser Made in Japan 2 sets

3 Automatic Shirt PlacketFusing Machine

NS-8233Ngai Shing Auto Temp System 4 sets

4 Collar Turning and

Blocking Machine

NS-44 Ngai Shing Blocking Pneumatic 3 sets

5 Collar Point Trimming NS-75 Ngai Shing 3 sets

6 Collar Point Trimming &Turning

NS-76 Ngai Shing 8 sets

7 Collar Turning &

Blocking Machine

NS-76 Ngai Shing Collar Edge Cuttingwith Adjustable Width

8 sets

8 Neck Press Machine NS-92 Ngai Shing NISSIN M/C withDouble Head each

2 sets

9 Neck Press Machine NISSIN CPF-2 With Auto Head

Controller

1 set

10 Collar Blocking M/C Forming NAGAI Sing NS-

8247

Auto Collar Blocking 8 sets

11 Cuff Press NS-82 Ngai Shing Auto Cuff Pressing 9 Sets

Embroidery Section


12 Reconing Machine Ns-85 Ngai Shing 2 Cone Machine 2 Sets

13 Placket Cutting M/C Hashime-HW-40 With Auto Stracker &Adjust Table

2 Sets

14 Pocket Creasing Nagaishing Brand

NS-94

With Steam and

Header

9 Sets

15 Arm Hole Fusing M/C Nagaishing NS84 SD Made in USA 5 Sets

16 Collar Heat Notcher Vapor Press Co. 2 Sets

17 Arm Hole Press Ns-91 4 Sets

18 Side Seam Press NS-8235 1 Set

19 Collar Notcher NS-8232 4 Sets

Total: 78sets

9.9.Sewing sequence of t-shirt:

Number matching front 2 back pant (back on pant on upper side)

▼

Solder stitching (By over lock m/c)

▼

Neck rib truck (By plain m/c)

▼

Neck rib sewing by plain m/c

▼

Neck rib joins with body pant

▼

Embroidery Section


Neck top sin

▼

Solder to solder back tip

▼

Size label sewing

▼

Solder to solder back top sin

▼

Sleeve marking ad number matching with body parts.

▼

Sleeve tuck with body part (Sleeve mark point & solder mark point)

▼

Sleeve joint with the body part

▼

Side sewing and care label joint

▼

Bottom hem tuck (at the end side)

▼

Bottom hem sewing

▼

Arm bottom hem joint

▼

Inspection.

Embroidery Section


9.10.Sewing sequence of Polo shirt:

Lining joint with collar part by heat pressing

▼

Collar marking for open stitch

▼

Collar inside open stitch

▼

Collar marking

▼

Collar ¼ top sin

▼

Collar cutting

▼

Band Rolling

▼

Band joint with Collar

▼

Band top sin 1/6

▼

Placket lining

▼

Placket marking

▼

Placket Rolling

▼

Placket joint

▼

Embroidery Section


Placket top sin 1/6

▼

Placket Pattern top sin

▼

Placket pattern top sin 1/6

▼

Box Sewing

▼

Pocket Rolling

▼

Pocket iron

▼

Pocket marking

▼

Pocket joint with body

▼

Yoke joint with back part

▼

Yoke ¼ top sin

▼

Back & front part matching number

▼

Solder joint

▼

Solder top sin

▼

Collar marking

▼

Embroidery Section


Collar & body number matching

▼

Collar joint with body part

▼

Collar top sin in jointing point

▼

Sleeve marking

▼

Sleeve over locked

▼

Sleeve Rolling

▼

Sleeve pair matching

▼

Sleeve & body matching

▼

Sleeve body tuck

▼

Sleeve joint with body part

▼

Sleeve marking for batch

▼

Sleeve batch joint (left & right side)

▼

Body marking for batch

▼

Batch joint with body part

▼

Embroidery Section


Label make

▼

Label Iron

▼

Main label joint in back side

▼

Sleeve opening tuck

▼

Body hem sewing

▼

Care label sewing

▼

Side joint

▼

Band tuck

▼

Band tape joint

▼

Band top sin

▼

Sleeve chap tuck

▼

Inspection.

Embroidery Section


FIG: sewing and sample making

Embroidery Section


10 CHAPTER :PRINTING SECTION

Embroidery Section


10.1. Machineries in printing section:

Semi automatic flat bed printing m/c: 03 pcs

Dryer : 02 pcs

No. of Flat bed Table : 05 pcs

10.2.Machine specification of printing section:

SLno

M/C name Brand Origin Capacity No of m/c

1 MHM Printing M/C Tesoma Australia 600 pcs/hrs 1 Set

2 Heat Press M/C Metalnox 2Set

3 Heat Press M/C Wagen Germany 1 Set

4 Label Washing M/C Shanghai China 1 Set

5 Flock M/C Germany 2 Set

6 Flock M/C Local 2 Set

7 Color Mixing H.S.Z

Kiddzigrio

Thailand 1 Set

8 Spray Gun M/C Germany 2 Set

9 Printing Table H.S.ZKiddzigri

Thailand 1000pcs/hrs 2 Set

10 Printing Table Local Bangladesh 1600pcs/hrs 4 Set

Embroidery Section


10.3. Chemical used in Printing:

Thickener (PG): It is a main compound for making a paste.

Binder: Hold color on to the fabric surface.

Fixer: Cross linking chemical (when drying at high temperature about 150 ºC) Printingsection

Pigment: It is a coloring substance

10.4. Different types of printing:

1. Pigment printing

2. Rubber printing

3. Crack printing

4. Discharge printing

5. Plastic sol/ High-density printing

6. Flocking printing

7. Foil printing

8. Glitter printing

9. Emboss / Pub printing

10.5. Printing Process Sequence

Pigment printing

Recipe:

Thickener------2%

Binder--------8%

Fixer----------2%

Water---------90%

Sequence:

Embroidery Section


Table preparation

▼

Fabric plaited on the table

▼

Pigment printing paste apply with the help of screen

▼

Curing at 160ºC (belt speed 6.50 m/min)

▼

Delivery

10.6. Rubber printing

Recipe:

Rubber----------------60%

Clear------------------38%

Fixer---------------------2%

Sequence:

Table preparation

▼


▼

Rubber printing paste apply with the help of screen

▼

Hanging the fabric for 30 min

▼

Embroidery Section


Curing at 150ºc (belt speed 5 m/min)

▼

Delivery.

10.7. Crack printing

Recipe:

Rubber-----------------98%

Fixer-------------------2%

Crack paste / clear

Sequence:

Table preparation

▼


▼

Crack paste/clear apply with the help of screen

▼

Dry in air temp or hand dryer m/c (slight)

▼

Printing paste apply with the help of screen

▼


▼

Deliver

Embroidery Section


10.8. Flock printing

Recipe:

Flock paste------------------ 90%

Fixer (Nylon) --------------- 10%

Flock powder (Synthetic or cotton)

Sequence:

Table preparation

▼


▼

Apply flock paste with the help of screen

▼

Flock powder apply with the help of flock gun

▼

Manually dry by hanging for 30min

▼


▼

Brushing

▼

Delivery

Embroidery Section


10.9. Foil printing

Foil paper solid color which is made by buyer requirement.

Recipe:

Foil paste----------------90%

Fixer---------------------10%

Sequence:

…

Fabric preparation

▼


▼

Foil gun /Foil paste apply by screen

▼

Dry slightly in air temp / Hand dryer

▼

Apply foil paper on the fabric

▼

Heat apply by heat press m/c(150ºc for 5sec)

▼

Cooling for 4 sec

▼

Foil paper removed by hand

▼

Deliver

Embroidery Section


10.10. Emboss / Pub printing

Recipe:

Rubber paste------------ 49%

Pub / Emboss----------- 49%

Fixer---------------------- 2%

Sequence:

Table preparation

▼


▼

Apply printing paste by screen (3times)

▼

Hanging for 15min

▼

Curing at 170ºc (belt speed 3m/min)

▼

Delivery

Embroidery Section


10.11. Discharge printing

Recipe:

Discharge rubber paste------------ 90%

Discharge/ RNS powder----------- 49%

Sequence:

Table preparation

▼


▼

Apply printing paste with the help of screen

▼


▼

Delivery

10.12. Plastic sol/ High-density printing:

Recipe:

High-density paste------------ 100%

Embroidery Section


Sequence:

Table preparation

▼


▼

High-density paste apply by screen

▼


▼

Delivery

10.13. Glitter printing:

Recipe:

Rubber paste------------ 70%

Fixer---------------------- 2%

Glitter---------------------- 28%

Sequence:

Table preparation

▼


▼

Glitter paste apply by screen

▼

Hanging for 15min for dry

▼

Curing at 160º c (belt speed 3m/min)

▼

Delivery

Embroidery Section


10.14.Faults in printing:

Fatting: If the pigment printed fabric is fatted (on printed portion) after washing. Then thisfabric is rejected. So it is major fault for printing.

Cracking: If the rubber printed fabric is braking (on printing portion) after elastration.

Fig: Printing Table Fig: Semi automatic flat screen printing m/c

Embroidery Section


11CHAPTER :EMBROIEDERY SECTION

Embroidery Section


11.1. Organ gram of Embroidery Section:

Embroidery

In-charge

▼

EmbroiderySupervisor

▼

▼ ▼

Embroidery Operator Embroidery Helper

11.2. Process sequence of embroidery:

1. At first designed the buyer design by CAD software

2. The design software install into the machine

3. The fabric clamped by the clamp board

4. Then run the machine until finished the design

5. Then the fabrics collect for delivery.

Embroidery Section


11.3.Embroidery Faults:

1. Stitch gap2. Bobbin out3. Oil spot4. Miss thread5. Measurement up-down6. Needle hole.

Fig: Embroidery machine

Embroidery Section


12 CHAPTER : QUALITY CONTROL

Embroidery Section


Quality Control:

Quality control is concerned with the evaluation of test data and its application tocontrol of the textile process, raw materials, intermediate products and final products.

It is concerned not only with quality level and cost of maintaining this quality level butalso concerned with the presentation of tangible values to measure quality and changes inquality. In order to control quality one must know about the consumers’ expectations.

12.1.List of Equipments:

1. Computer2. Light box3. Electric Heater4. Sample Dyeing M/C5. Electrical Balance6. PH meter7. G S M Cutter8. Washing M/ C9. Shrinkage & spirality measurement instrument

12.2.Objectives of quality Control:

Selection of raw materials Specification test Product testing. To ensure the product desired quality.

To fulfill requirements for quality.

Process control and development

To control and different techniques will be required by different conditions.

Quality assurance and so on.

To evaluate accurately of the end product.

To research and development Quality assurance and so on.

Embroidery Section


12.3.Quality Management system:

Quality assurance procedure may be provided by the following two major parts-

Quality control

On Line Test off Line Test

Physical Tests Chemical Tests

On Line Test

- Fabric GSM control

- Grey Fabric Inspection with 4 point system

- Diameter and Width control

- Shade Check;

- Bias and Bowing;

- Visual appearance (Enzyme performance);

- Stripe.

Off Line Test

Off line quality are divided into two groups-

Physical Tests and Chemical Tests.

Embroidery Section


Physical Tests

GSM of Fabric; Rubbing Fastness or Crocking; Pilling test; Diameter and Width; Tensile strength; Tearing test; Bursting test; Light Fastness test; Drape, Stiffness, and Handle; Course per inch; Wales per inch; Picks per inch; Ends per inch.

Chemical Tests

Shrinkage and Spirality or Twisting;

Fastness to Washing;

Fastness to Perspiration;

Fastness to Chlorine;

PH test.

12.4.Quality assurance:

Quality assurance is defined as all those possible planned and systematic actionsnecessary to provide adequate confidence than a product or service will satisfy givenrequirements for quality. The Quality Assurance Department is assigned to maintainconsistently uniform quality of the material in process and various stages of its

manufacturing.

12.5.Quality assurance at different stage:

Assures the quality of the products of dyeing section in the following three steps:

In laboratory

In dyeing section &

In finishing section

Embroidery Section


Procedures are described below:

In laboratory

Swatch card from buyer according to their requirement

recipe prediction for sample dyeing

sample dyeing until matching with swatch card

Fastness & other tests of the fabric or yarn are done here.

In dyeing section

According to the buyer’s sample, sample dyeing is done in sample dyeing

machine in dyeing shed & again matched with the approved sample.

If result is OK, then bulk production.

During dyeing, samples are taken until accurate shade matching. The interval

may be 30-40 minutes.

After dyeing sample is collected after softening matching is done.

Last of all, sample is collected after fixation & matched.

Then allowed the fabrics to be finished.

In finishing section

By using a series of finishing machines correct width, softness & appearance

are maintained according to requirements.

Then sampling is done for several times to test GSM, Shrinkage & fastness properties.

Finally fabric is inspected & prepared for delivery.

Fabric Inspection:

The inspection of fabric is a procedure by which the defects of fabric are identified

and fabric is classified according to degree or intensity of defects. The fabric inspection is

done for both gray and finished fabric.

Grey Fabric Inspection:

Grey fabric inspection is performed according to 4-point system.

Finished Fabric Inspection:

Embroidery Section


4 point numbering system is followed for finished fabric inspection.

Defects found in the final inspection:

Uneven shade

Oil spot

Neps

Crease mark

Machine Stoppage mark

Listing

Line mark

Pick missing

Double yarn

Dead cotton

Bowing

Fly yarn contamination

12.6.Test procedures for Quality Control

1. GSM Test

GSM is the most important factor. There is a G S M Cutter. The Sample is cut thenweighted in the electronic balance. The reading is then (in gm) from the balance,multiplied by 100, to get Value of G S M.

2. Finished Fabric dia

In Knit, dyeing finishing, finished diameter is Very important factor. It should bekept as the buyer requirements. Simply a measuring tape measures it. Finished diameter iscontrolled at compacting m/c.

3. Rubbing test:

1. Purpose: The fastness test to rubbing is used on a fabrics to evaluate the

transfer of surface dye from the test fabric when it is applied surface friction or rubbingagainst a rough surface.

Embroidery Section


2. Apparatus: Crock-meter and grey scale

3. Method: ISO-105x12

4. Test specification:

Sample fabric size : 250mm X 50mm Crocking Fabric size: 50mm X 50mm

The crocking cloth against which then sample will be rubbed is a white, bleached, Un-dyedcotton fabric.

Procedure: At first the sample is placed with template over the metallic mounting plate.Then the cracking cloth is set in the crocking pin (peg) with clip. Then the testspecification is rubbed to & for (10s X 10 rubs, 1 rub/sec) by means of crock meters figure.Finally the crocking cloth is removed from the peg. In case of wet rubbing test, thecrocking cloth is wetted at room temperature.

Evaluation:

Compare the contrast between untreated & treated white crocking cloth with the staininggrey scale. Again, color contrasts of rubbed and un-rubbed by sample are compared withcolor changing grey scale. For both type of rubbing test, the fastness is rate from 1 to 5,where 1 means worst rubbing fastness & 5 means excellent rubbing fastness.

Wash fastness:

A. Purpose: The resistance of the color of any dyed/printed material to washing is

known as wash fastness.

B. Apparatus:

Wash fastness tester, Grey scale, Multi-fiber.

C. Method: ISO-105-CO6

D. Test specimen: For Fabric: Fabric, size 10 cm X 4 cm.

Multi-fiber fabric: Multi-fiber fabric size 10 cm X 4 cm.

E. Reagent:

ECE determent 50gm Na-perborate 10gm Tade= 2gm 4BK= 2gm

Embroidery Section


Water= 20lt pH =10.5±1 Time = 30min Temperature = 600C No. of still ball (on condition) =50

F. Procedure:

Weight of the specimen & volume of the wash liquor are calculated as requireISO-105-CO6 method.

Place of the specimen in the container with the wash liquor. Run the machine & rise the Temp. at600C and run for 30min. m/c will automatically wash & rinse the fabric Drying: Drying in a fully automatic dryer at temperature not more then 600C then

keep in relax for 1 hour.

H. Assessment: color change: The original & tested dyed sample are placed by side,oriented in the same direction along with the color change grey scale and compare thecontrast between the treated dyed sample and the same untreated sample with theappropriate

Embroidery Section


13CHAPTER : COST ANALYSIS

Embroidery Section


13.1.Introduction:

Costing is a very important task for a factory which runs for business purposes.And itis also strictly followed in the N.A.Z.Bangladesh Ltd. Costing of the productsconsidering the raw materials expenditure, salary and wages of officers and workers,distributions and advertisement expenses etc. all direct and indirect expenses is done inthis factory. It is determined by a troop of accountants with advice and consultancy ofexecutive director.Cost analysis is a crucial step for any business organization,specially if it is a manufacturing company. Here cost analysis is done in conventionalmethod. Costing is a process by which the setting price of a product is calculated.

13.2.Price of the product

Generally price of product is determined by the required profit adding to the totalexpenses. So,

Price of products= (Direct cost + Indirect cost + FactoryOverhead) + Required profit

13.3.Costing system

Costing system mainly describes how the cost of the final product is fixed by thecompany/beneficial. According to buyer/customers requirement at first the fabric iscollected from local and foreign suppliers. Then it id calculated how much dyestuffand chemical is required to the end of the processing of that specific fabric .Afterthat, the final cost is fixed including some profit & manufacturing overhead.Thenthe unit price is offered to the buyer for approval.

Costing of the prodsuct is done by the consideration of the following factors:

Direct materials.

Indirect materials.

Direct labours

Indirect labours

Manufacturing Overhead

Floor rent.Machine drescription.Utility cost.Maintenance.Spare parts.DepriciationsOffice overhead.

Embroidery Section


Transportation.Refreshment.Miscellaneous.

13.4.Example of a costing Procedure:

Cost Calculation: (in tk)Cost of total chemical: xTaka Factory overhead: yTaka All other cost: zTaka Profit: aTakaTotal cost: (x+y+z)Total Price: (x+y+z+a) Taka

Cost of Dyeing and Finishing (assuming)Table 10.1: Cost of Dyeing and Finishing of knit fabric

Color Open Finishing with Enzyme & Silicon(Tk/kg)

100% cotton S/J Lycra S/J

Light color 120 140

Medium color 135 160

Dark color 145 170

Off white 110 130

White 60 80

Royal Blue 160 170

Only wash 50 70

Only heat setting - 20

Sweding (Ultrasoft) 20 20

Brush 10 10

13.5.Costing of the product for finished fabric

Embroidery Section


Cost of Fabric per Kg = Yarn price +Knitting charge +process loss (4%) +Dyeing cost + process loss (5%) + packaging cost +25% margin Profit

Say,

Yarn count= 30/s

Yarn price= 5.60$

So, cost of raw material/kg = 5.60x70 Taka

= 392 Taka

Knitting charge (say s/j) = 8 Taka

Process loss (4%) = 16 Taka

So, price of grey knitted fabric =416 Taka

Dyeing cost per kg =120 Taka

Process loss (5%) =26.8 Taka

So, Dyed fabric cost =562.8 Taka

Packaging coast =3.50 Taka

So, Total cost of dyed fabric =566.3 Taka

Fabric price (with 25% margin profit) = 707.88 Taka/kg

13.6.Costing for garments

Fabric consumption (for garments/dozen):Required fabric weight in Kg. = (Body length +sleeve length + sewing allowance) x ½Chest x 2 x gsm x 12/1,00,00,000 +15%

Say,

Body length =78cm

Sleeve length =32cm

Chest length x (1/2) =62cm

Sewing allowance =1cm

Embroidery Section


Gsm =210

Fabric consumption /dozen= (78+32+1) x 62 x 2 x 210 x12/1,00,00,000 + 15%

=3.99kg/doz

Body fabric cost/dozen = 707.88 x 3.99

= 2824.44 Taka

Cost of collar & cuff/dozen = 220 Taka

Cost of Trims/dozen =160 Taka

Cost of Trims/ dozen (with 5% process loss) = 168 Taka

Production cost of garments/dz = (Body fabric cost +cost of collar & cuff +cost ofTrims)

=2824.44+220+168

=3212.44 Taka

Garments price/dozen (with 25% profit) = 4015.55 Taka=57.37$

13.7.REMARKS

Costing is as important as production for a productive factory. Withoutproper costing all production curriculums will go to in vain. Cause, a factory cannotreach to its goal without achieving good profit and good profit is not possiblewithout skillful costing. Seeing the improvement of Epyllion Knitex Limited day byday, we can assume that it follows the right and proper way of costing withskillful technical persons.Price of the product and costing of the product of anyIndustry is a secret subject because it is related in the marketing strategy of theindustry. I suggest my college not to include these topics in the curriculum ofindustrial attachment program.

ETP


14CHAPTER : ETP

ETP


ETP

ETP means effluent plant. It can be defined as a plant where the effluent is treated. Now aday ETP is mandatory for industries which produced huge amount of waste water (such aswet processing industries in Textiles).By basic studies on ETP, we learn how to controltextile waste water pollution, how waste water is treated in order to save our environment.

14.1.Classification of ETP

ETP can be classified as follows

1. Physicochemical2. Biological – a) Conventional

b) Membrane Bio-Reactor (MBR)

3. Physicochemical followed by biological (Bio-chemical)

The ETP of N.A.Z. Bangladesh Ltd is used Physicochemical followed by biological (Bio-chemical). The ETP of N.A.Z. Bangladesh Ltd is described below:

Capacity of ETP :120 M3/hour

Amount of using chemicals:

1) Polyelectrolyte :2kg/1000L

2) Lime : :(50-100) kg/1000L

3) FeSO4 :50 kg/1000L

4) DAP +Urea :(8+2) kg/1000L

The above qualities are continuously achieved by the ETP plant.

ETP


ETP


14.2.Layout of ETP in N.A.Z

Figure 11.1: Layout of ETP

Lamella Clarifier(primary)

ChemicalDosing Tank

Raw effluentfrom Dyeingsection

ChemicalDosing Tank

pH correctiontank

Sludgepit

AerationTank

Lamella Clarifier(secondary)

Lamella Clarifier(primary)

Flocculationtank

EqualizationTank

ETP


Analysis of waste water should be done in each month and done under the supervision ofDepartment of Environment. Such analysis sheet which is done on the date of 31-01-11is given bellow:

Table 11.1: Discharge quality of treated waste water in N.A.Z.

Sample Location Date Lab codeNo.

pH DOmg/l

BODmg/l

CODMG/L

TDSmg/l

N.A.Z. Bangladesh Ltd(Inlet of ETP)

25-01-2011

167 9.8 0.0 120 380 2320

N.A.Z. Bangladesh Ltd(Outlet of ETP)

25-01-2011

198 7.4 4.7 48 160 2040

Bangladesh Standard for Waste Water fromindustrial units, discharge to inland water as perECR 1997.

6-9 4.5-8 50 200 2100

14.3.Chemicals used for ETP and their functions:

1) H2SO4/HCl

Function:

Neutralize the waste water controlling the PH. It is auto dispensed in theneutralization tank.

2) Polyelectrolyte

Function:

Make chemical particles bigger in size

3) De-colorant

Function:

It is used for removing color of waste water. .

4) Sodium Hypochlorite

Function:

It is used to kill the harmful bacteria. It is used in the biological oxidation tank.

ETP


5) FeSO4

Function:

Used for coagulation and sludge separation from waste water.

7) Lime

Function:

To change the color of waste water.

8) Di-ammonium phosphate

Function:

Using food of bacteria.

9) Urea

Function:

Using food of bacteria.

Product Quality Checked:

Biological Oxygen Demand (BOD) Chemical Oxygen Demand (COD) Total suspended solids Total dissolved solids Color pH, etc.

Remarks:

Waste water from processing industries e g. Dyeing , Printing , Finishing andwashing causes great harmful effect on our environmental, As a result agricultural landloses its fertility, natural water becomes polluted aquatic life is destructive and crops are da

Maintenance Section


15CHAPTER : MAINTENANCE SECTION

Maintenance Section


15.1.Maintenance

Maintenance is a process by which equipment is looked after in such a way that troublefree. Service and increased machine life can be ensured and specific product qualityrequired by the customers is sustained.

On time maintenance increase m/c lifetime & ensures trouble free services.

Maintenance of machineries is very important for any type of industries and it is must for

a knit composite factory. All machines and machine parts of knitting, dyeing and

garments are maintained with extreme care. Because production quality and quantity,

both depends on the maintenance with regularity.

15.2.Objective of Maintenance To keep the factory plants, equipments, machines. Tools in an optimum working condition. To ensure specified accuracy to product & time schedule of delivery to customer. To keep the machine down time to minimum thus to have control over the production pro-

gram. To keep the production cycle within the stipulated range. To modify the machine settings to meet the need for the production.

15.3.Classification of Maintenance:

Maintenance

PreventiveMaintenance

Break DownMaintenance

MechanicalMaintenanc

e

Electrical

Maintenance

Mechanical

Maintenance

Electrical

Maintenance

Maintenance Section


Types of maintenance:

Preventive Maintenance

Preventive maintenance is a predetermined routine actively to ensure on time inspection /checking of facilities to uncover conditions that may lead to production break downs orharmful description.

Break down maintenance

In this case, repairs are made after the equipment is out of order and it can’t perform its normalfunctions.

Routine Maintenance

Maintenance of different m/c’s are prepared by expert engineer of maintenance department.Normally in case of dyeing m/c maintenance after 30 days complete checking of differentimportant parts are done.

Total Manpower

Total Manpower in Maintenance Department: 25

Table 12. 1: Maintenance Tools & Equipments

Mechanical Electrical

1. Pliers2. Inside Calipers3. Outside Calipers4. Digital Millimeter5. Heating Shoulder6. Hammer7. Pliles8. Gauge9. Vernier Calipers10. Lather M/C11. Drill M/C12. Welding M/C13. Spanner Set14. Alen Key Set15. Steel Roll16. Measuring Tape17. Crew Driver18. Cutting oil (WD-40)

1. Voltmeter2. Ammeter3. Contact Cleaner

Maintenance Section


Maintenance Procedure

Normally preventive maintenance is done here. During maintenance procedure following pointsshould be checked:

15.4.Checklist for Different Machine

15.5.Dyeing Machine

Maintenance: Mechanical

Check the main pump oil level.

Check all bearings, seals, gaskets.

Check all mechanical seal flush pipes.

Discharge the water from air filter.

Check all m/c flange & platform bolts.

Grease RCR rotary joints every 2 weekly

Clean & check the control panel.

Check the adjustment of catch basket mechanism and plaiter system.

15.6.Squeezer Machine


Grease squeezer bearings.

Grease all the bearings.

Check oil level of pneumatic oilers.

Check oil level of gearboxes.

Check magnetic spreader adjustment.

15.7.Machine: Compactor


Check, Grease if necessary

Nuts of width adjustment spindles for wear

Check all spindle bearings for free running

Free running of guide rollers, deflection rollers & contact rollers

Pressure springs of chain tensioner

Maintenance Section


Perform visual inspection: -

Gear box oil level

Belts, pulleys

15.8.Machine: Stenter


Crease all bearing with stuburg NBU-12, energrease 1002 Complete cleaning of the machine Check all belt and belt tension Check all door sills Check gear box of platting and its oil. Check all pin bars & clean Check chain and give oil if required .Clean exhaust blower & duct All chamber blowers check and clean Chamber nozzle cleaning Check gas pressure, adjust if required

15.9.Machine: Boiler:


Check and clean fluff & dart at all machine. Feed pump servicing. Main boiler servicing. Cheek all temperature & pressure gauge meter. Cheek gas strainer. Clean gauge glass & change if required. Clean feed tank. Clean fire tube. Clean all safety valves. Check all steam valves. Check all gas regulators.

Remarks

Maintenance of m/c’s are very essential to prolong the m/c life and good maintenance is importantconsideration.

In this industry maintenance program is done by expert maintenance team. So, very few timesproduction is stopped due to m/c problem.

Production Planning & Control


16CHAPTER : PRODUCTION PLANNING & CONTROL



16.1. Basic Procedure of Production Planning & Control

A planned work brings success. Without planning nothing is complete within the required

time. So planning has its own importance which is intolerable. Planning gives a scheduled

task and control completes it successfully. But production planning and control is not an

easy task. Its basic working procedure is as follows-

Taking order form marketing division ,

Analyzing the orders

Planning for knitting the fabric

Planning for dyeing the fabric

Planning for finishing the fabric

It is only a basic procedure. It may change according to the type of order. Sometimes the

order is planned only for finishing the materials or only for dyeing the goods. Then some

steps are minimizing for planning.

Taking order from the marketing division:

N. A. Z Bangladesh Ltd. marketing division supplied fabric orders to the planning and

control division by a specific format.

Analyzing the orders:

After getting the fabric order, this section analyzes the orders according to buyers order

quantity, type of orders (i.e. type of fabric, color to be dyed etc.) delivery date etc. This

section plans for required quantity of fabric to be knitted, knitting balance, fabric to be

dyed, dyeing balance RFD (ready for delivery), RFD balance, delivery fabric & delivery

balance.

Planning for knitting:

This section plans for knitting production. It selects m/c for knitting the fabric, no of m/c to

be used, type of yarn used, from which source of yarn will be collected, required GSM,

width etc. It also gives delivery date of knitted fabric.



Planning for dyeing of the fabric:

Production planning for dyeing is called "Batch Plan". Batch plan is prepared according to

m/c capacity, no. of nozzle batch no, fabric construction, color, width, GSM and priority of

delivery etc. and written in a batch card.

Planning for finishing of the fabric:

Finishing schedule is same as dyeing. After dyeing, materials go to the finishing section

with the batch plan. The fabric can be finished in the open line finish or tube line finish.

Finishing line will be selected according to the type of the fabric to be finished. Finishing

data is written to the batch card and is informed to the planning section. However this

section always forces to all the departments to finish all the work within the delivery time

given by the buyers. Thus, it plays a very important role in the success of the company.

Marketing Information


17CHAPTER : MARKETING INFORMATION

Utility Facilities


17.1.Marketing Information

N.A.Z Bangladesh Ltd. is a 100% export oriented ready-made garments

manufacturer. So they sell their product to export market especially to Europe. They also

take some initiative for market development through communicating with new buyer and

taking part in different international garments fair.

Product

As it is an apparels manufacturing industry, its main products arc T-Shirts, polo

Shirts, Tank Top, Sweat Shirts, Night Wears, Jogging Suits, Under Wears, Trousers etc.

The factory ensures safe/metal free garments as per customer requirements, through

practice of metal detection & needle/metal control procedures.

17.2.Major Buyers

H&M SWEDEN

ALDI GERMANY

PUNTOROMA SPAIN

TESCO U.K

TEX-EBO GERMANY

TEMA TURKEY

SPRINGFIELD EUROPE

UNIQLO GERMANY

SILVER WEAR U.K

Utility Facilities


18CHAPTER : UTILITY FACILITIES

Utility Facilities


18.1.Available Utility Facilities

N. A. Z Bangladesh Ltd is a large project. So, it requires adequate utility services.

In N. A. Z Bangladesh Ltd. the following utility services are available –

Electricity Gas Water Compressed air Steam

Electricity

It is impossible to continue the production without electricity. A frequent supply ofelectricity is very much essential to ensure smooth production. In N. A. Z Bangladesh Ltd.the whole demanded electricity is generated by Own Generator.

Generator Specification

Type : Gas generator

No. of generator : 2

Manufacturer : DEUTZ

Local Supplier : KALTIMEX ENERGY BANGLADESH LTD.

Capacity :

Electricity Consumption :

Overall efficiency : 80%

Stroke of engine : 4 Stroke

Generator No Capacity

Generator No-1 1010 KW

Generator No-2 1344 KW

Season Total Consumption/Day

In Summer 1400 KW

In Winter 1100 KW

Utility Facilities


Engine RPM : 1500

No of Cylinder :

Cooling System : Open Cycle

Ignition System : Auto

Starting Procedure (Generator)

Total power is then distributed as per requirements of different, section of N. A. ZBangladesh Ltd.

Gas

The gas is supplied to Gas Generator, Boiler.

The source of gas is TITAS GAS LTD.

Generator No No of Cylinder

Generator No-1: 12

Generator No-2: 16

Generator Room should be Clean

Cooling Tower water reserve tank shold filled

Oil Circulation pump run for 10 min

Start the Engine 5 Min without any load

Close the main circuit breaker and connectthe load.

Utility Facilities


Water

Continuous supply of water for N. A. Z Bangladesh Ltd is ensured by Water pump. Thedeep well water is subjected to Water Treatment Plant (WTP) to make sure the waterquality parameter suitable for Textile Wet Processing.

18.2.Water Treatment Plant (WTP)

The goal of all water treatment process is to remove existing contaminants in the water, orreduce the concentration of such contaminants so the water becomes fit for its desired end-use. Some common contaminants in raw water (deep well water) are iron, Ca, Mg etc. Thewater treatment plant is a vital part of the dyeing section where the supply water of thedyeing floor is treated and cured for proper dyeing. The supply water contains varioussoluble effluents like dissolved solids, metal compounds and other impurities which canlead to any sort of fabric fault during dyeing the knitted fabrics Optimum Hardness for Dyehouse water is 1-3 ppm.

In N. A. Z Bangladesh Ltd. , water treatment is done in three steps by three filter tanks.The circulations of water at different stages are controlled by different bulbs. Backwashbulbs are used when the tank needs washing, Drain bulbs helps to drain out the water andSupply bulbs are used to control the water supply among the filter tanks.

Water Treatment Procedure

Multi Grade Filter:The multi grade filter is used for removing the residual iron contained in the treated water.

Activated Carbon Filter:The activated carbon filter is used for removing the remaining metals and other impurities bypassing the water flow through rocks of different sizes arranged in different layers of the tank.At first there is a layer of small rocks and next is a layer of medium rocks and finally comes alayer of big rocks. The tank contains a carbon layer in middle.

Softener Tank:

The heart of a water softener is a mineral tank. It's filled with small polystyrene beads,also known as resin or zeolite. The beads carry a negative charge. Calcium and magne-sium in water both carry positive charges. This means that these minerals will cling tothe beads as the hard water passes through the mineral tank.

Utility Facilities


Soft Water Reserve Tank:The processed soft water is reserved in the soft water reserve tank.

Brine Water Tank:

The brine tank is just what its name suggests, a plastic tank that contains a brine, watersaturated with salt. The brine solution is typically made with salt or sodium.

The brine tank holds a salt solution that flushes the mineral tank, replacing calcium andmagnesium ions with sodium. Calcium and magnesium in water both carry positivecharges. This means that these minerals will cling to the beads as the hard water passesthrough the mineral tank. Sodium ions also have positive charges, albeit not as strong asthe charge on the calcium and magnesium. When a very strong brine solution is flushedthrough a tank that has beads already saturated with calcium and magnesium, the sheervolume of the sodium ions is enough to drive the calcium and magnesium ions off thebeads. Water softeners have a separate brine tank that uses common salt to create this brinesolution.

Regeneration

In normal operation, hard water moves into the mineral tank and the calcium andmagnesium ions move to the beads, replacing sodium ions. The sodium ions go into thewater. Once the beads are saturated with calcium and magnesium, the unit enters a 3-phaseregenerating cycle. First, the backwash phase reverses water flow to flush dirt out of thetank. In the recharge phase, the concentrated sodium-rich salt solution is carried from thebrine tank through the mineral tank. The sodium collects on the beads, replacing thecalcium and magnesium, which go down the drain. Once this phase is over, the mineraltank is flushed of excess brine and the brine tank is refilled.

Test Performed to Ensure the Water Quality

Hardens Test

Iron Test

Silica Test

PH Test

Utility Facilities


18.3.Standard Water Quality for Dye house

18.4.Compressed Air

In N. A. Z Bangladesh Ltd. Compressed air is generated with air compressor.

Machine Name :SWAN Air Compressor

No. Of Compressor : 2

Manufacturer : Tong Chen Iron WorksCo. Ltd.

Model : SWP-415

Max. Working Presser : 9kg/cm2

Machine Name : Foam LiquidStorage Tank

Manufacturer : Kashiwa Co Ltd.

Origin : Japan

Capacity : 3.7 M

Parameter PermissibleConcentrations

Color Colorless

Smell Odor less

Water Hardness <5 ppm

PH Value 7-8

Dissolved Solid <1 ppm

Inorganic Salt <500 ppm

Iron <0.1 ppm

Manganese <0.01 ppm

Copper < 0.005 ppm

Nitrate <50 ppm

Nitrite <5ppm

Utility Facilities


18.5.Steam

Pure steam with required temperature must be produced to meet the continuous demand ofsteam in different sections. In N. A. Z Bangladesh Ltd. Steam is generated using 2 fire tubeboiler.

Boiler No-01: Boiler No-2:

Brand : Cochrn Boiler

Manufacturer : Cochran Boiler Ltd.

Origin : Scotland

Capacity : 10 ton

Brand : DMX1-900P

Manufacturer : Dapang Industry

Origin : Korea

Capacity : 9 ton

Conclusion


19CHAPTER : CONCLUSION

Conclusion


Conclusion

I have completed my Industrial Training successfully by the grace of Allah.

Industrial Attachment sends us to the expected destiny of practical life. N.A.Z. BangladeshLtd. is a well know factory in the Textile field of Bangladesh. The completion of the twomonths industrial attachment at this industry gave us the inspiration that factory is one ofthe appropriate destiny to implement the theoretical knowledge. From this industrialattachment we got the details idea about the factory environment , production process, totalmanagement, store & inventory process, maintenance, utility etc.

N.A.Z. Bangladesh Ltd. Is well equipped and the working environment is excellent. Therelation between top management to bottom level is so nice.

I am very lucky to get opportunity having training in this mill.

The factory runs by a number of efficient Textile Engineers, Skilled technical & non-technical person. All the Textile Engineers, technical & non-technical person are verysincere, co-operative and helpful.

We wish good luck of them and also for this factory.

19.1.Findings

Wonderful understanding between the top level management and the other employees andoperatops. Industrial training is an essential part for textile education because it minimizesthe gap between theoretical and practical knowledge. Undoubtedly, this industrial trainingtaught us lot about textile technology, production processes, textile machineries, industrialmanagement, and made us comfortable to industrial life. Besides it gave us the first oppor-tunity to work in industry.

Conclusion


19.2.Limitations

Because of secrecy act, the data of costing and marketing activities have not been supplied. We had a very limited time. In spite of willingness to study in more details it was not poss-

ible to do so. Some of the points in different chapters are not include as these were not available. It is not possible to in compass the whole process in such a small frame as this report

19.3.Suggestions

Some automatic machines for dyeing lab, production and QC inspection should be there. More lab facility should have in the lab including busting strength tester, automatic dye lab

dispenser, rotary store etc. Supervisor or floor in-charge did not properly follow the program. So sometimes operators

deviate from the set procedure which may hamper the quality of the product. During the transport of fabric and the loading of fabric in the machine, fabrics are soiled by

the contact with floor. This makes the fabric dirty. It may require more scouring andbleaching agent or may create stain.

List of Firures


List of Figures:

Figure 4.1: Latch Needle ......................................................................................... 20

Figure 5-1: Rope length (m) and fabric wt loading on m/c depending on the grams perrunning meter of fabric ............................................................................................ 42

Figure 5-2: Rope length depending on winch speed .................................................... 42

Figure 7.1: Cellulose, the polymer of cotton .............................................................. 61

Figure 7.2: Bifunctional reactive dye (Remazol Black B, DyStar) ................................ 63

Figure 7. 3: Dilmenlar Winch Dyeing m/c ................................................................. 64

Figure 7. 4: Cross sectional view of Dilmenler Dyeing m/c ......................................... 69

Figure 7. 5: Different valves used in Dilmenler winch Dyeing m/c ............................... 70

Figure 7.6: winch .................................................................................................... 71

Figure 7. 7: Dyeing Curve........................................................................................ 82

Figure 7. 8: DyeingCurve For Black color ................................................................. 87

Figure 7. 9: Dyenig Curve for Tequish color (Migration process) ................................. 92

Figure 8. 1: fabric passage on Tube squeezer m/c ..................................................... 104

Figure 8. 2: fabric passage diagram in tube compactor machine ................................. 108

Figure 8. 3: Fabric passage in open squeezer m/c...................................................... 109

Figure 8. 4: Feraro open compactor......................................................................... 110

Figure 8. 5: fabric passage on open compactor ......................................................... 111

Figure 8. 6: Bruckner Stenter machine .................................................................... 112

Figure 8. 7: Brushing machne................................................................................. 118

Figure 11.1: Follow chart of ETP (Physicochemical) ......... Error! Bookmark not defined.

Figure 11.2: Layout of ETP............................................................................................... 168

List of Firures


List of TablesTable 3. 1: Source of yarn for knitting ................................................................................ 13

Table 3. 2: Types of yarns used in N.A.Z. Bangladesh Ltd ................................................ 14

Table 3.3: Cost oy yarn ....................................................................................................... 14

Table 3.4: Cost of knitting for different fabrices................................................................. 15

Table 4.1: Yarn Count in Direct system.............................................................................. 22

Table 4.2: Yarn Count in Indirect system ........................................................................... 23

Table 4.3: No. of yarn ply according to yarn count for collar & cuff ................................. 24

Table 4.4: Collar & Cuff measurements.............................................................................. 24

Table 4.5:Main Product - Fabrics :- .................................................................................... 26

Table 4.6: Analysis of structure, looping diagram, cam arrangement and needlearrangement of knit fabric ................................................................................................... 27

Table 6.1: Amount salt and soda used depending on the shade %...................................... 47

Table 7. 1Classes of dyes on the basis of suitability of dyeing different fibers: ................. 61

Table 7. 2: Chemical composition of raw cotton: ............................................................... 62

Table 7. 3: Production Parameters :..................................................................................... 65

Table 7.4: Dyes, Chemicals & Cuxiliaries Use in N.A.Z:................................................... 76

Table 8.1: List of machine in Finishing Section ........................................................ 100

Table 8. 2: Fabric passage & function of diff. parts of Tube squeezer: ........................ 102

Table 8. 3: Dia extenion on tube squeezer m/c ......................................................... 104

Table 8. 4: Fabric passage & function of diff. parts of Relax Dryer: ........................... 105

Table 8. 5: Fabric passage & function of diff. parts of Tubular Compactor: ............... 107

Table 8. 6: Fabric passage & function of diff. parts of stenter machine: ...................... 112

Table 8. 7: Fabric passage & function of diff. parts of Ultra soft m/c .......................... 115

List of Firures


Table 8.8: Fabric passage & function of diff. parts of Brushing m/c: .......................... 116

Table 9- 1: Faults of fabrics at finishing section ............Error! Bookmark not defined.

Table 10.1: Cost of Dyeing and Finishing of knit fabric ............................................ 162

Table 11.1: Discharge quality of treated waste water in N.A.Z. .................................. 169

List of Tables

Industrial Attachment I | P a g e

Industrial attachment of naz bangladesh ltd

Engineering

Transcript of Industrial attachment of naz bangladesh ltd