IHT Luxury Conference 2012: Post event report
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Transcript of IHT Luxury Conference 2012: Post event report
LUXURY 2012 ROMA NOVEMBER 15- 16
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The New Year 2012 opened with luxury
companies talking about “emotion’’ – the
need to engage potential customers in a
deeper and more meaningful way than with
outward and visible signs of wealth. By
the end of this year, I personally will have
experienced more emotion than I could have
imagined when I persuaded my colleagues
at the International Herald Tribune that I was
intent on looking at Africa for our luxury
conference.
My reason was a visceral reaction to the
proliferation of “luxury’’ in such a way that
the word itself seemed meaningless. I became
convinced that true luxury was something that
needed to be touched by human hands – whether in the way it was made or the way it was
perceived. Tracing the surface of silk with the fingers or stroking fine leather seemed as
valid as the idea that someone out there had made and loved this object. Even if you would
never meet the producers, they had given a handmade product the human touch of the
unique.
And then I went to Africa. But not just to Morocco with its quasi-sophisticated
objects made for the itinerant wealthy. Nor with its sumptuous new mall for the super-
rich. In South Africa, I was intrigued to see how many fashion designers were serving
clients quietly, building up a parallel and personal luxury apart from big brand buying.
I was inspired by Lagos Fashion and Design Week, lurching in that dynamic, crazy city
from market stalls in the old quarter selling a cornucopia of different fabrics to the
runway at the Eko hotel, where designers used the local talents to print, embroider,
resuscitate ancient techniques and modernize hand craft.
But my epiphany came in Kenya, up the Great Rift Valley, where I talked to women
who were embroidering bags for Vivienne Westwood, recycling materials for Ilaria
Fendi’s bags and creating original and sustainable bags for Stella McCartney. Some of
the women were even – for these luxury bags – sewing in linings made from cotton
shirts discarded by the West.
One Maasai woman, who walked down the Ngong hills each day to join the sewing
collective, told me that she was earning her own money for the first time in her life.
And that she was putting it aside to educate her children. I suddenly realized that I was
witnessing the beginning of a virtuous circle – a long process that might take a decade
or a generation. The handwork could be turned into money to educate a new generation
which would then join the lowest rungs of the middle class: those people for whom
buying more than a necessity is a luxury.
The sports shoes and watches that I saw in modest shopping malls in Nairobi were
the precursors of more sophisticated goods to come. Sons and daughters of hill tribes
might, at least in the more stable and peaceful African states, turn into the business
people I saw in the financial district in Lagos. ▶▶
Suzy Menkes’s opening remarks for the International Herald Tribune Luxury Conference 2012
LUXURY 2012 ROMA NOVEMBER 15- 16
I don’t really believe in fashion as some fairy tale fountain of
goodness. Even the luxury industry is too concerned about global
sales to worry much about encouraging local growth. But I have
been impressed by how many people are trying to turn skills into
substance, helping people to help themselves.
Some of these enthusiasts have philanthropy in mind. Others are
focused on business. Craft is at the heart of many of these initiatives
– and it is always present in my thoughts about the definition of
modern luxury. I remember when I first saw the jewelry from the
Tuaregs on sale at Hermès. But I also think about the jewellers of
Venice, with their distant inspirations and local creations.
This conference is focused on the promise of Africa and the
power of the Mediterranean – particularly in relation to the current
chill winter, following the abundant Arab spring. But Italy is also
a vital part of the equation. In my long career, I have seen so much
truly beautiful artisanal work from Italy – which I believe is the only
country left in Europe that puts hand work at the heart of its art.
As many people have asked me: “Why Rome?” as have asked:
“Why Africa?”
My initial thought in choosing this city was that the ancient
Roman Empire of my high school Latin lessons was the first to look
intelligently beyond its own borders, along the Mediterranean and
down to North Africa. My next moment, was when I was re-reading
“Il Gattopardo,” – The Leopard – that compelling book that never
leaves my bedside. I thought of the island of Lampedusa today,
drowning in immigrants trying to land their boats from Africa – and
how that seemed like a metaphor of hope and fear and crushed
dreams.
I believe that Italy will always have a leading place in the luxury
world, just because the work is entrusted to human hands – to those
artisans who work in small companies right across the country.
However much factory manufacturing is lost to China, Italy has skills
that create true modern luxury.
Italy has also built up a rich relationship with Africa – the giant on
its southern doorstep. I hope that in this conference we can celebrate
both Italy and Africa and see 21st Century luxury as something that
can be managed beautifully in both countries’ hands.
LUXURY 2012 ROMANOVEMBER 15 - 16
18.30 Welcome drinks reception sponsored by Fidé Fashion Week
08.00 Morning refreshments and registration
09.00 Welcome remarks Stephen Dunbar-Johnson, Publisher
International Herald Tribune Introduction Suzy Menkes, Fashion Editor, International Herald Tribune
Welcome to Roma Silvia Venturini Fendi, Creative Director, Fendi As President of AltaRoma and as Co-Designer, with
Karl Lagerfeld, of the Fendi brand, Silvia Venturini Fendi will welcome delegates to Rome and explain the city’s exceptional artistic skills.
Handmade in Africa Simone Cipriani, Head, Poor Communities and Trade
Programme & Chief Technical Advisor, United Fashion, an Initiative of the United Nations (ITC)
and joined by Ilaria Venturini Fendi, Designer, Carmina Campus Simone Cipriani is at the heart of African fashion col-
lectives which bring together luxury brands with local artisans and handworkers. These collaborations create desirable products as well as contribute towards the UN’s mission of poverty reduction. In this session, Mr. Cipriani will talk about his vision for luxury goods produced in Africa for both “small craft” and mainstream brands, the challenges of creating sustainable business models, and the ITC’s ambitions for the future. During Q&A, he will be joined by Ilaria Venturini Fendi, the designer behind one of the companies engaged in manufacturing in Africa and empowering communities to transform their lives.
Lagos and London Omoyemi Akerele, Creative and Managing Director,
Style House Files Duro Olowu With a growing middle class, an upper class with an insa-
tiable appetite for luxury goods, and an evolving fashion
industry that recognizes home-grown brands, Nigeria plays a significant and commercially vital role in the fashion world. In this session, Ms. Akerele and Mr. Olowu will share their insights into the Nigerian fashion and luxury market, as well as how Nigerian talent is making an impact abroad.
Alternative Africa Jochen Zeitz, Director of PPR and Chairman of the
board’s sustainable development committee and Chairman of PUMA SE
Responsible for sustainability initiatives across the PPR group, Mr. Zeitz was the first business leader to develop an environmental profit-and-loss system that quantifies the impact of an entire supply chain on its environment. As sustainability and socio-environmental issues continue to gain importance in consumer agendas, Mr. Zeitz will share his vision of commercial sustainability and the responsibilities of luxury and fashion companies.
11.10 Morning refreshments
11.50 My Africa Kim Jones, Men’s Style Director, Louis Vuitton Having spent a peripatetic childhood following his father’s
pan-African career, Kim Jones explains to Suzy Menkes how his experiences can be absorbed into luxury at its highest level.
Liberté, Egalité, Diversity Jean Paul Gaultier As the first designer to offer wide diversity on the catwalk
and as inspiration, Jean Paul Gaultier reflects on a de-signer’s ability to embrace the wide world.
The North African Woman Farida Khelfa, Ambassador, Maison Schiaparelli Farida Khelfa has developed as a cineaste and a fashion
ambassador. She will discuss her early days with Jean Paul Gaultier, her Algerian heritage and her work in the cinema and for television.
Wednesday, November 14, 2012
Day 1: Thursday, November 15, 2012
Principal Partner
Sponsors
ihtluxury.com @ ihtluxury # IHTLux
The Valentino Virtual Museum Giancarlo Giammetti, Founder, Valentino In this session, Mr. Giammetti will speak about how he
and Valentino Garavani have used new technologies to present Valentino archives spanning 50 years, bringing to life the vision and experience of the world of Valentino.
13.15 Lunch
14.30 Whither the Arab Spring Roger Cohen, Columnist, International Herald Tribune In this brief session, Mr. Cohen will share his insights into
the Arab Spring, and consider how luxury and fashion goods companies should be interpreting events in the Middle East.
Chinese investment in Africa: Implications for its
rising middle class Nader Mousavizadeh, CEO, Oxford Analytica Michael Zaoui, Formerly Vice Chairman of Morgan
Stanley Institutional Securities Group; Founder, Zaoui Capital LLP
With trade flows between China and Africa reaching over $160Bn/year, and levels of Chinese investment in Africa increasing, what is the impact on Africa’s middle class? Is Chinese-driven economic growth increasing local purchasing power? In this session, Mr. Mousavizadeh and Mr. Zaoui will share their views on the impact of China in Africa, new levels of prosperity and the implications for the luxury goods industry.
Managing the Med Raffaello Napoleone, CEO, Pitti Immagine Silvio Albini, President, Albini Group; Milano Unica Italy, with its creative and manufacturing force, is key to
the IHT Luxury Conference. This session will examine the important links – forged through cotton – between Italy and Egypt, and Italy’s role as a connector for the entire luxury industry. Mr. Albini and Mr. Napoleone will share their views on Italy’s relationship, in terms of production and manufacture, with the Mediterranean area and North Africa, and their thoughts on how Italian expertise and design flair are being transferred overseas. They will also discuss the changing profile and demographics of fashion consumers across the Mediterranean and North Africa.
15.30 Afternoon refreshments
16.10 Causes and issues: Fighting for what is right Vivienne Westwood, Founder, Vivienne Westwood
and Andreas Kronthaler, Creative Director, Vivienne Westwood
Touched by human hands Paul van Zyl, Founder and CEO, Maiyet
Kristy Caylor, Founder and President, Maiyet As increasingly jaded fashion consumers question more
and more the real meaning of “luxury,” how should the industry react? What space in the market is there for companies to pioneer a different vision of luxury? In this session, Mr. van Zyl and Ms. Caylor will speak about “new luxury,” which harnesses rare artisanal skills to cre-ate items for a generation of socially aware consumers.
FEED: Responsible luxury Lauren Bush Lauren, CEO and
Co-Founder, FEED A pioneer in the area of responsible luxury and fashion,
Ms. Bush Lauren will share details of how FEED projects are helping combat hunger and malnutrition in Africa, as well as creating desirable items with true craftsmanship.
Luxury in Africa Hanneli Rupert, Director, Merchants on Long; Designer,
Okapi Handbags A designer and retail entrepreneur, Ms. Rupert will speak
about the South African fashion market, African brands and craft products, and her plans for bringing her own African leather goods brand to the rest of the world.
My Mediterranean: From Calabria to the World Donatella Versace, Creative Director and Vice President,
Gianni Versace S.p.A. From her childhood in Reggio Calabria, to the classical
influences of Rome, Donatella Versace will discuss the power of the Mediterranean on her life and her brand.
18.00 Close of Day One
19.45 Transfers from the Rome Cavalieri by Mercedes-Benz
20.00 Gala Party sponsored by Rome Capitale and AltaRoma at the Musei Capitolini, piazza del Campidoglio, Roma
LUXURY 2012 ROMANOVEMBER 15 - 16
Organized by
ihtluxury.com @ ihtluxury # IHTLux
LUXURY 2012 ROMANOVEMBER 15 - 16
08.30 Morning refreshments
09.00 Day Two introduction Suzy Menkes, Fashion Editor, International Herald Tribune
Giving back to my country – the Coliseum project Diego Della Valle, Chairman and CEO, Tod’s S.p.A. A pioneer in the global luxury industry, Mr. Della Valle is
responsible for transforming Tod’s from a family enterprise to an international empire. But what role should philan-thropy play in a successful company’s agenda? In this session, Mr. Della Valle will share his views on how luxury goods companies should “give back.”
From Africa to Africa Francesco Trapani, President, LVMH Watches & Jewelry Mr. Trapani will tell the story of how a silver ring in Africa
inspired Bulgari to create the Save the Children ring, and explain how this item of jewelry is benef itting local com-munities in Africa.
African Fashion Precious Moloi-Motsepe, Executive Chairperson, AFI In this key session, one of the leading f igures in Africa’s
fashion industry will discuss local consumer interest in fashion in the context of a growing middle class, and share her thoughts on the mid-long term outlook for African spending on fashion.
A different Africa Renzo Rosso, Founder, Diesel; President, OTB and Only
The Brave Foundation; Millennium Development Goals Global Ambassador
Mr. Rosso’s personal discovery of Africa began in 1983, when sourcing manufacturers in the Northern part of the continent. Since then, he has not only built up Diesel’s African production, he has also worked to make Africa the central focus of the Only the Brave Foundation. In this ses-sion, Mr. Rosso will talk about how the OTB Foundation supports social enterprises, the balance between “Made in Italy” and “Made in Africa,” and share his passion for a continent rich in resources, culture and ambition.
Positive change through fashion Ali Hewson, Co-Founder, EDUN Bono, Co-Founder, EDUN Founded by Ali Hewson & Bono in 2005, EDUN is a
global fashion brand bringing about positive change through its trading relationship with Africa, and its positioning as a creative force in contemporary fashion. In this session, the couple will show how EDUN proves that sustainable manufacturing f its closely with the needs and demands of the fashion industry.
11.10 Morning refreshments
11.50 Luxury with a tribal beat Guillaume de Seynes, Managing Director,
Hermès International Responsible for production and manufacturing, Mr. de
Seynes will speak about sustaining beautiful craftsman-ship in a corporate world, and Hermès’s attitude towards craft. He will also go into detail about the challenges for luxury brands working in Africa.
The universal allure of luxury: Beauty beyond imagination
Joanne Crewes, President, P&G Global Prestige In this session, Ms. Crewes will speak about the key
factors that make luxury beauty brands powerful, iconic and desirable, and the overarching qualities that resonate with consumers globally. She will go into detail about how consumers are now being exposed to a universe of brands beyond their own territory and culture, before discussing how P&G views the African market and the opportunities therein.
Aduna: Challenging perceptions of products from Africa
Andrew Hunt, Managing Director, Aduna The way Africa is portrayed by Western brands is often
clichéd and fails to capture its unique and powerful vibrancy. In this brief session, Andrew will explain how Aduna has created an authentic and premium health and beauty brand which will challenge existing perceptions of Africa, while at the same time creating demand for her huge pipeline of under-invested and untapped natural products. The focus will be on the remarkable fruit of Africa’s iconic baobab tree - The Feel Good Fruit - which Aduna believes could be worth up to a billion dollars to communities in rural Africa.
Day 2: Friday, November 16, 2012
ihtluxury.com @ ihtluxury # IHTLux
Principal Partner
Sponsors
Panel: Consumers in emerging markets Alexandre Ricard, Deputy Chief Executive and
Chief Operating Off icer, Pernod Ricard Ashok Som, Professor and Associate Dean, ESSEC Chair: Stephen Dunbar-Johnson, Publisher,
International Herald Tribune In this session, Mr. Ricard and Mr. Som will look at how
African consumers differ to those in other emerging mar-kets and how the African market is unique. They will dis-cuss the evolving balance of international and local drinks brands in Africa, as well as the efforts by local drinks producers to be perceived as luxury goods, and extrapolate for the audience learnings that might be applicable to the wider luxury goods community.
Africa unmasked and unabashed Uché Okonkwo, Executive Director & Founder,
Luxe Corp. In this session, Ms. Okonkwo will speak about luxury
goods consumption in Africa, drawing on her personal experiences and insights to paint a detailed picture of an emerging middle class and how they perceive luxury in relation to cultural codes and Western inf luences, as well as talking about their buying habits and considering how luxury goods companies can grow their business in Africa.
In global luxury, do as Romans did Umberto Angeloni, President and CEO, Caruso;
Founder, Uman In this session, Mr. Angeloni will explore how the presence
of global, democratic and civilized luxury in imperial Rome has been translated and passed down to modern day Italy, and is the seed from which Italian style and passion for beauty and quality have grown. Mr. Angeloni will share his views on the pre-eminence of “Made in Italy” in con-sumer mindsets, and will discuss how the Italian fashion and luxury industry is evolving to incorporate traditional artisanship, modern technologies and unrestricted design.
14.00 Lunch
15.00 Rome and the essence of Valentino Pierpaolo Piccioli and Maria Grazia Chiuri, Creative
Directors, Valentino In a specially-commissioned video, and in their discus-
sion with Suzy Menkes, the design duo will focus on the exceptional studios and handwork of the Roman brand.
Africa Fashion Capital Franca Sozzani, Editor-in-Chief, Italian Vogue Livia Firth, Creative Director, Eco Age In this session, Livia Firth and Franca Sozzani will discuss
ways the luxury and fashion industry can bring work to Africa in a sustainable and long-term way, creating a virtuous circle which helps the continent develop its consumer market while also allowing fashion brands and designers to properly produce there.
Inspired by Africa, Made in Italy Manolo Blahnik From his childhood in the Canary Islands, perfumed with
the scent of Africa, Manolo Blahnik’s inspiration has been influenced by North Africa throughout his career.
Mia Roma! Frida Giannini, Creative Director, Gucci Giambattista Valli The power of the Eternal City has inf luenced two very
different Roman-raised designers. In this session, Ms. Giannini and Mr. Valli will share what Rome means to them, emotionally, visually and in their work as designers, and their thoughts on the global reach of fashion.
16.35 Closing remarks Suzy Menkes, Fashion Editor, International Herald Tribune
17.45 Transfers from the Rome Cavalieri by Mercedes-Benz
18.00 Closing Drinks sponsored by and at the Gagosian Gallery, Via Francesco Crispi 16, 00187 Roma
ihtluxury.com @ ihtluxury # IHTLux
LUXURY 2012 ROMANOVEMBER 15 - 16
Organized by
SAVE THE DATE5-7 March 2013Suisse Majestic, Montreux, Switzerland
Join us in Montreux, Switzerland for the inaugural Luxury Law Summit, the only event to bring together C-suite executives and general counsel from across the luxury industry with international law fi rms and specialists in the sector.
Over two days, you can join the high level networking and take the opportunity to hear industry leaders examine the evolution of legal and regulatory challenges which will be faced by the luxury industry over the next decade.
Key topics will include:• New markets, new frontiers, new legal landscapes• Combatting the counterfeiters• Design trends: the legal viewpoint• Refi nancing for growth• Defending IP at the heart of luxury branding• Luxury retail in the digital age: new legal challenges• A new guide to litigation
For more information contact Amber Smart [email protected] +44 20 7061 3524
Sponsorship opportunities are available, for more details contact Brenda Hagerty at [email protected] or Maria Sunderland at [email protected]
Sponsored by
Sponsorship opportunities are available, for more details contact Brenda Hagerty at [email protected] Maria Sunderland at [email protected]
Sponsored by
LUXURY 2012 ROMA NOVEMBER 15- 16
#IHTLUX
@TheBradfordGPFor those of us who are passionate aboutAfrica’s potential, we applaud Suzy for the powerhouse of creative and visionary speakers #IHTLux
@AdunaWorldSuzy Menkes asks all the right questions: why are the BIG international brands so slow in responding to Africa? #ihtlux #africarising
TOP: Stephen Dunbar-JohnsonBOTTOM: Suzy Menkes
A GIAnT on THe DoorsTepDAY ONE: Opening Comments
Opening comments at the International Herald Tribune Luxury 2012 conference came from IHT publisher Stephen Dunbar-Johnson and fashion editor Suzy Menkes, with both focussed on the massive potential of the African continent in terms of creativity, economic growth and a valuable associate of the luxury industry.
“Generations have learnt to pity Africa,” said Dunbar-
Johnson, “Instead we look at Africa as an economic dynamo.
Six of the world’s ten fastest growing economies from 2001-
2010 were in Africa.” He went on to cite a recent Goldman
Sachs report, entitled ‘Africa’s Turn,’ which compared Africa’s
growing economy to that of China in the early 90s.
This economic growth and the employment associated
with it is the most sustainable way to raise living standards,
beyond simple aid handouts. “Trade benefits more than aid,”
said Dunbar-Johnson, “There are still too many countries with
very real problems, and these should not be ignored but Africa
needs voices to speak out about its potential as well as its
challenges”.
Fashion editor Suzy Menkes echoed calls for the virtuous
circle of trade built upon African craftsmanship, and talked of
her visit to a fashion collective in Kenya run by the International
Trade Centre, where local workers, many of them women, are
able to earn money using their skills as embroiderers for Stella
McCartney, Vivienne Westwood and Fendi handbags.
“Luxury needs to be something touched by human hands,
like tracing the surface of silk or fine leather,” said Menkes
in her opening comments. “Someone out there had made and
loved this object. The human touch of the unique.”
The importance of this human touch is part of a bigger trend
in the luxury industry: emotion. “In 2012, luxury companies are
talking about emotion,” said Menkes, who went on to outline
how luxury brands were attempting to engage with customers
in a more deep and meaningful way than just as the outward
trappings of wealth.
Menkes described why Rome was chosen as the perfect
location for such a conference as it was the ancient Roman
Empire that was the first to look intelligently beyond its borders
down to Africa. As well as being a hotbed of creativity and
craftsmanship, the burgeoning middle classes developing in
the more prosperous African nations are the new consumer
audiences for luxury goods: “Africa is the giant on the
doorstep,” concluded Menkes.
“In 2012, luxury companies are talking about emotion”
LUXURY 2012 ROMA NOVEMBER 15- 16
Vivienne Westwood
UnscrIpTeD, UnrIvALLeD DAY ONE: Vivienne Westwood
The production notes for Vivienne Westwood’s section of the agenda consisted of a single word:
“VIVIENNE WESTWOOD: Unscripted”
Armed with a passionate desire to make a point and no
shortage of strong opinions, Westwood delivered a 20 minute
speech that was dizzying in its scope, but that never failed to
grip the audience. A short film about Westwood’s involvement
with the International Trade Centre’s ethical fashion programme
served as an introduction.
The clip ended with a quote from Westwood about “saving
the world through fashion,” although when the designer took
the podium she promptly announced that she had no intention
of doing any such thing: “We will not save the world with fash-
ion and I have not prepared any constructive speech. I’m going
to talk about the things that worry me, and see if that makes
sense.” This was going to be a list of “Everything Wrong With
The World According To Vivienne”, and her enthusiasm for her
subject was palpable.
Climate change loomed large in Westwood’s call to action:
“I am traumatized by climate change. We are not looking at the
future, and that’s the problem. The one we should be looking at
is so fragile.” There were a few nods to fashion, but not many
(“I’ll try and say what this means as a fashion designer but
more importantly, how we can stop climate change.”)
She directly attacked the notions of encouraging a wealthy
middle class, “All I’ve heard about today is the middle class
consumer customer who’s going to grow and grow, and that’s
our future?” she exclaimed, “That’s nonsense!” It flew in the
face of the sentiment expressed by every other speaker, but the
audience didn’t seem to care and responded enthusiastically.
There were references
to the Renaissance, and an
indictment about the modern
notion of free trade, which for
Westwood had come to mean
that “everyone is free to make money any way they can”. There
was talk of being ruled by corporations, and the importance of
rainforest conservation.
At one point Westwood started to outline her plan for the
ideal civilization. It was was a complicated idea, but that didn’t
matter. Ideas and thoughts were expressed at breakneck speed,
turning, taking the audience on a white-knuckle ride through
the Westwood psyche.
As the rollercoaster drew to a close, Westwood discussed
the nature of quality and the importance of products and
labour being properly valued and costed: “My problem as a
fashion designer is [that] I would like quality, not quantity.”
She bemoaned the idea of people wanting too much “stuff”
and the nature of hierarchical societies that placed differing values
on supposedly superior jobs. She even admitted that there were
some products in her business empire that she “did not like,” but
they were necessary to fund the high fashion element of her busi-
ness, although she made it quite clear that she fully supported
her line of ethical bags: “I like
those bags from Africa.”
Westwood’s speech was so
full of energy and passion, it
challenged the audience to keep
up, and Vivienne was waiting for no-one.
When the mortals in Greek mythology encounter the Gods,
they come away dazed and confused, and in the Rome Cavalieri
on this November afternoon, us mortals were gloriously happy
in our befuddlement.
“Ideas and thoughts were expressed at breakneck speed, turning, taking the audience on a white-
knuckle ride through the Westwood psyche.”
#IHTLUX
@MatthewZorpasVivienne Westwood being VIVIENNE WESTWOOD at #IHTLux
LUXURY 2012 ROMA NOVEMBER 15- 16
#IHTLUX
@ESSECSage words from Jochen Zeitz, PPR-Luxury industry can shape the definitions & redefinitions of quality, traditions and heritage #IHTlux
@RColletteVivienne Westwood ‘We will not save the world by fashion. We are not looking of the future. Our future is so fragile.’ #IHTLux @IHTLuxury
@minkudesignJochen Zeitz of Puma SE and PPR touching on lots of hard truths about investing in Africa, good and bad, super pragmatically #IHTlux #Puma
@queenantigona“While it inspired ‘Heart of Darkness’, Africa is actually the heart of light.” Jochen Zeitz #IHTLux
Jochen Zeitz
AfrIcA’s ImAGe probLemDAY ONE: Jochen Zeitz
Jochen Zeitz, director of PPR and Executive Chairman of Puma SE used his time on the platform to share his vision of commer-cial sustainability and outline the responsibilities of luxury and fashion companies operating in Africa.
Zeitz is well qualified to talk on the subject – he was the
first business leader to develop an environmental profit and loss
system that quantifies the impact of a whole supply chain on the
environment and in 2008
founded the Zeitz Foun-
dation of Intercultural
Ecosphere Safety.
“Africa has an image problem,” announced Zeitz, speaking
in a session called ‘Sustainable Africa.’ “It is the source of
some of the greatest athletes in the world,” he explained.
“Some of the worlds most renowned musicians, authors and
economists are African.”
Yet despite the fact this was the continent that gave the
world Kofi Annan, Nelson Mandela and Desmond Tutu, Africa
was still referred to as ‘the hopeless continent’ in a headline
in The Economist. This was all the more surprising given that
while the rest of the world reeled from the shocks of the 2008
crash, Africa was relatively unaffected. And while the rest
of the world stuttered through a stumbling recovery, Africa
continues to get stronger.
“The continent is on the verge of a demographic dividend
similar to the southeast Asian economies of the past decade,”
explained Zeitz, “Africa is a continent going in the right
direction, and we should be engaging whole heartedly.”
Zeitz drew attention to the African art scene, and the
record sales figures achieved by auction houses dealing in
African art. In fact as an investment, African art delivers equal
returns as stocks or gold, making it an attractive corporate
investment. Zeitz also described areas in which the rest of
the world can learn from Africa. “Africa has led the way in
innovation for community based approaches to conservation,
it has also been at the
forefront of global thinking
about conservation for its
wildlife,” he explained.
“The world has much to learn and benefit from Africa about
the sustainable use of animals.”
Zeitz used his speech to call for realistic optimism towards
Africa, and pointed out that the continent was “not another
China in the making, with bright starts and darkening skies.”
While recognising that the impetus for potential has to
come from within Africa itself, Zeitz made it clear that the
rest of the world has a role to play in making this happen,
as does the luxury sector. “Luxury could play a leading role
in helping to change the image,” argued Zeitz, “what other
industry can shine a light of glamor and desire? This could have
a transformative impact in Africa, and the desire for African
goods in the world. Our industry is a hugely influential voice on
the planet. Why aren’t we using it for more positive change?”
“What other industry can shine a light of glamour and desire? This could have a transformative impact in Africa...”
LUXURY 2012 ROMA NOVEMBER 15- 16
HAnDmADe In AfrIcADAY ONE: Simone Cipriani
“Luxury today is about business, profit and responsibility - including everyone in the production chain” said Simone Cipriani during his presentation as part of the Handmade in Africa session. “We make fantastic accessories, we work with fantastic designers… and the beautiful handiwork your customers crave, produced in a 100% ethical fashion - Do you think it’s impossible?”
Cipriani, head of the Ethical Fashion Initiative at the In-
ternational Trade Centre (ITC), delivered a passionate account
of how the ITC has created opportunities for thousands of
people, by creating work through infrastructure. “True luxury,”
explained Cipriani, “is sustainable, environmentally sound and
desirable. This isn’t charity, it’s just work.”
“This is a vibrant continent that is the future of your busi-
ness, and ‘dynamo’ is such a beautiful word,” he continued,
in reference to Stephen Dunbar-Johnson’s opening comments
about Africa being an economic dynamo. “Who will your next
customers be?” Cipriani asked the audience. “The new African
middle classes have a combined spending
power of $1.3 trillion. We don’t do this by
leaving the poor ones behind. Work lets the
poor change their own lives.”
Cipriani urged delegates to tap into the
creative of African nations: “We invest in the poor as they are
the most important factor of growth in humankind. When
this enormous potential is connected to the global market,
it changes lives.” Cipriani admitted that for luxury brands to
operate in Africa provided huge logistical challenges. Poverty is
a complicated thing but there were abundant benefits to those
willing to make the commitment, naming Vivienne Westwood
and Stella McCartney as two examples.
Cipriani went on to urge delegates to consider transferring
even just a small percentage of their production to the Ethical
Fashion Initiative. “What’s in it for you?” he asked, “beautiful
ethical luxury, with a touch of the unique. Handmade craft - not
in a shack, but in a suitable working environment. We do busi-
ness in a dynamic environment, and we do make a profit. This
isn’t a charity, it’s about working with the private sector with
mutual long term gain.”
Touching upon the recycling ethic that is a dominant feature
of African craft, Cipriani shared images of the ‘Mama Suzy’
bag, named in honour of Suzy Menkes after her visit to Kenya.
Consumers have their own role to play in Cipriani’s vision.
For him it is important that luxury brands work with consumers
to spread the message that change is possible. “You hold the
key in what you buy,” he told the audience,
“The luxury world is traditionally associ-
ated with heritage and quality, working with
artisans in well established communities,
producing pieces of art that last a lifetime -
Let us be the leaders.”
“When this enormous potential is connected to the global market, it changes lives.”
#IHTLUX
@LuxecorpSimone Cipriani just showed us the “Mama Suzy” bag made by local artisans in Kenya. Lovely! Where can we buy?!? #IHTLux #ihtluxury
@LuxurySociety#IHTLux A recurring idea this morning that aid & charity has proved counter effective for Africa. The future focus is doing real business
@MatthewzorpasSimone Cipriani “We work with the poorest of the poor but this is not pity or charity but work.” @IHTluxury #IHTLux
Simone Cipriani
LUXURY 2012 ROMA NOVEMBER 15- 16
socIAL enTrepreneUrsHIpDAY ONE: FEED, Maiyet, Okapi
A common sentiment expressed in a number of sessions was the importance of trade over aid. The mechanics of helping people to help themselves was brought to life by presentations from the CEOs of FEED and Maiyet.
Lauren Bush Lauren, CEO,
creative director and co-founder of
FEED, was inspired by her work with
the UN World Food Programme.
Faced with the choice of become a
full time aid worker, or pursuing her
dream of being a fashion designer,
Lauren realised that there was a way
to combine the two. FEED bags are
made using the same burlap fabric
that food-aid bags are made from,
and have become a fashion hit.
“It’s a way to
fight world hunger
in a meaningful,
tangible way,”
said Lauren,
as she explained the FEED model.
“You’re a consumer, you’re going to
buy a bag anyway, so all we ask is
that you buy FEED because we give
back.”
FEED bags are produced by
Kenyan craftspeople, some of whom
come from a local deaf school.
Proceeds from the sale of the bags is
reinvested into free school meals for
children - which in turn encourages
families to send their young children
to school, providing education and
nutrition in one initiative. FEED
manufactures directly for retail, and
also collaborates with larger brands
with co-designed products.
“Social entrepreneurship used to
be a new term, but its more prevalent
now and that’s really exciting,”
said Lauren in her enthusiastic
presentation. She went on to outline
the creative process behind the bags:
“It takes a day and a half per bag to
do all the work, and the sale of every
bag supports two children in school
in Kenya for a year.”
“It’s about allowing people to
overcome their impediments,” said
Paul van Zyl, CEO and co-founder
of Maiyet. “We source from our
artisan partners and when it does
well, they do well.” Onstage with
co-founder and president of Maiyet,
Kristy Caylor, van Zyl talked about
his experience working on the truth
and reconciliation commission in
South Africa, which taught him the
importance of listening. “You don’t
tell these people what’s good for
them, it’s important that you afford
them the dignity of listening. We
don’t regard our artisan partners as
just suppliers,” explained
van Zyl.
As Caylor outlined
Maiyet’s success (the
label will be in 35 stores
by March 2013, with a New York store
opening later in the year) it became
clear that the company’s responsible
production ethics have resonated
with consumers. “Our success is
down to the fact that [our product]
is touched by human hand - artisans
working finely and closely to produce
something beautiful and covetable,”
said van Zyl.
“It’s a way to fight world hunger in a meaningful,
tangible way.”
#IHTLUX
@StylehousefilesLauren Bush Lauren - 870million people around the world go hungry everyday #IHTLux @IHTLuxury
@LuxeChronicles“I stock the top African designers from throughout the continent & I design a line of handbags.” (Hanneli Rupert) #IHTLux #luxury
TOP: Lauren Bush LaurenBOTTOM: Kristy Caylor & Paul van Zyl
LUXURY 2012 ROMA NOVEMBER 15- 16
AfrIcA & DesIGn DAY ONE: Designers on stage
Silvia Venturini Fendi
“The Romans are a unique people, they’ve seen a lot,” says
Silvia Venturini Fendi, designer and scion of Rome’s first family
of fashion. “Over the centuries, they have always considered
things they didn’t know an opportunity.” Fendi considers her-
self a real Roman, possessed of good courage and open mind.
‘Nothing is impossible’ is the famous Fendi motto, and “no” is
not a word used often in the Fendi atelier.
As President of AltaRoma, the organisation set up to
promote and protect the values of craftsmanship that built
Rome’s reputation as a global centre of excellence, Fendi
thanked the conference organizers for choosing Rome as the
location for this year’s conference, noting that the ancient
Roman explorers were the first Europeans to head south.
The promise of Africa and the power of the Mediterranean
is ably demonstrated by Fendi’s work with the International
Trade Centre’s work promoting ethical and sustainable fashion.
Back in 2008, Alta Roma and the ITC signed a declaration
supporting ethical fashion activity, and since then Rome has
hosted six fashion weeks dedicated to sustainable fashion.
“Africa is very promising,” said Fendi, who went on to praise
the creativity, artisan skills and use of iconography. “There
are many thing in common with Italy and Africa, we share the
human touch. We have started in the right direction.”
Duro OlowuIn 2005, Olowu was named New Designer of the Year at the
British Fashion Awards and his designs are often worn in public
by Michelle Obama, most recently when the Obamas returned
to the White House after a successful election campaign.
Africa plays a strong part in shaping Olowu’s career. “Going
back to Lagos, I’m a child of the 70s,” explained Olowu during
the session ‘Lagos and London’, I knew I wanted to be a
designer from an early age. It was a busting childhood where
we were exposed to lots of fashion brands. I was inspired
by Valentino but, in Nigeria, fashion wasn’t a profession so I
studied Law, but then I realised that it wasn’t what I really
wanted, so I taught myself how to design.” ▶▶
TOP: Silvia Venturini FendiBOTTOM: Duro Olowu
“‘No’ is not a word used often in the Fendi atelier ”
#IHTLUX
@ShemParonelliIndeed we have been beyond inspired at the discussions so far. Especially by insights from @stylehousefiles & Duro Olowu #IHTLux
LUXURY 2012 ROMA NOVEMBER 15- 16
AfrIcA & DesIGn (conT’D)DAY ONE: Designers on stage
Kim JonesKim Jones, menswear studio director at
Louis Vuitton, spent his childhood in Africa
and the continent is still a huge influence on
his work. Taking to the stage, Jones played a
short film that encapsulated the connection
between Africa and his work.
Asked afterwards about how this influence
becomes part of the creative process, Jones
put it down to the craftsmanship: “The detail
and immaculate way that things are made so
quickly… as a child I would just sit and watch
for hours and hours. I took my whole team to
Africa to see what it’s like.
It’s gives you such a special feeling, it’s
magical… I don’t think of Africa, I think of
different countries in Africa. They’re all very
different and there are lots of techniques that
are appealing to fashion designers.
Jones credits his father for instilling in him
an inquisitive spirit, “My father was insistent
that we saw as much as possible. We would go
for lots of long drives, and the one thing with
Africa is that every ten kilometres you can be in
a completely different landscape. In this digital
age, when you’re there on the ground you re-
alise just how big the world is.”
Not all the inspiration Africa provides is in
the abstract. An antelope’s markings have pro-
vided the perfect autumn palette, and crocodile
skin has been used in a number of garments.
“It’s about looking at things and extracting the
ideas,” explained Jones. “Africa has a crafts-
manship that translates well to luxury goods.
Africa has a mystery, a romance, a sophistica-
tion. It’s one of the most diverse continents.”
Jean Paul GaultierGaultier was the first designer to use
diversity as inspiration, and bring it to the
catwalk. His shows from the early 80s
reflected the multicultural Barbes area of
Paris. “I was always attracted to people who
were different,” said Gaultier. “I think
it’s important to show beauty from
around the world. Africa is important,”
he stressed, “in France we have a lot
of immigrants from the continent and I
wanted to show their culture.”
For Gaultier, sometimes it’s about
mixing two types of cultural elegance,
other times it might be about mixing
different craft techniques. “It’s what I’m
supposed to do,” he explained, “I’m
Parisian!”
Once described as an enfant terrible, Gaultier explained during his interview
that although he grew up, he was still
un vieux terrible. “I still have my love,
I love fashion, it is my life to be in
fashion. I just react to things I find
boring at the time.” When designing for men,
he has always tried to show that men could
be elegant, sensitive and sexy: “Some African
men wear skirts, and you cannot say they
are not masculine!”
When discussing Gaultier’s use of
ethnic models for his runway shows
in the 80s, interviewer Suzy Menkes
decried the lack of diversity on the Italian
runways of 2012, suggesting that local
designers should push to encourage it,
echoing Gaultier’s assertion that there are
many different types of beauty.
Farida Khelfa“In the media we see angry young
people and violence,” said Farida Khelfa,
referring to French news media depictions
of the uprisings collectively known as
the Arab Spring. “We didn’t see the real
people, the educated articulate people
who were behind the revolution, and I wanted
to show that on French television.”
Khelfa was talking about a recent
documentary project that attempted to shed
light on a previously ignored group of Algerian
revolutionaries. “I concentrated on the artists -
the actors, directors, designers and dancers,”
she explained. “You never see African ▶▶
“Africa has a craftsmanship that trans-lates well to luxury goods.”
#IHTLUX
@LureOfLuxeFashion’s enfant terrible @JPGaultier says he never meant to be shocking; his designs are his reactions to the times #IHTLux
TOP: Kim Jones BOTTOM: Jean Paul Gaultier
LUXURY 2012 ROMA NOVEMBER 15- 16
AfrIcA & DesIGn (conT’D)DAY ONE: Designers on stage
people like that. Africa is only shown as violent, or angry or hungry.
That’s why this conference is so important, it shows another world -
an important world.”
Khelfa talked about the fashion landscape of north Africa, where
designers were often working in conservative Muslim countries.
“There are young designers in Tunisia producing good, modern, but
modest clothes. They see fashion in a very different way. The Arab
Spring generation is very smart, very clever and brilliant.” Despite
this creativity, Khelfa was keen to point out the importance of
encouraging the growth of an affluent middle class: “If there’s no
middle class, there’s no country. A lot of Africa is like that… There’s
still a sense that there is a super rich class, but there’s not much in-
between [that and the working class].”
As a young woman of immigrant parents, Khelfa found her way
into the fashion world after meeting Jean Paul Gaultier through a
mutual friend, and she began modelling his creations. “I trusted
him, I always need that relationship when working with designers,”
said Khelfa. Today she is an ambassador for Schiaparelli, who Khelfa
credits with being the first to mix fashion and art: “She’s such a
strong spirit and such a strong brand, I’m really happy there.”
Hanneli RupertAs she took to the stage, Rupert noted that the title of her
session, “Luxury in Africa” should really have been “Luxury
from Africa.” A retail entrepreneur and designer, Rupert sources
handworked jewelry, hats, bags and colorful knits from countries
as far away as Cameroon and Senegal. In pride of place in her store
are her own Okapi bags, made almost entirely in Africa, and named
after the distinctive animal.
Rupert shared some of the sources of her inspiration
and discussed her collaborations with local groups of
craftworkers including Tintsaba in Swaziland and Zenzulu in
Kwa-Zulu Natal.
“Through Okapi, I got to know a lot of local crafts
and artisanal groups, but also exciting, emerging African
brands. I noticed there was a sharp divide – some of the
brands were selling well internationally but were unheard of
locally, while others were selling well locally but sold under
in-store labels overseas, and that’s where the idea for an
African emporium for top African brands came from.”
According to Rupert, “there’s definitely a buzz amongst
African designers. They all share the ethos of giving back to
the continent while showcasing how amazing it is.”
DAY ONE: The North African WomanTOP: Farida Khelfa, Schiaparelli amabassador
BOTTOM: Giancarlo Giammetti, Valentino Garavani, Farida Khelfa, Franca Sozzani
#IHTLUX
@AtelierlondonFarida clearly loves her work to recreate the Schiaparelli fashion house which will have a couture show this coming July #IHTLux
@FashionweekNYCI love fashion & It’s my life, but I don’t like that with new seasons you have to hate the last season - @JPGaultier #IHTlux
LUXURY 2012 ROMA NOVEMBER 15- 16
DAY ONE: Whither The Arab SpringTOP: Michael, Zaoui, Roger Cohen, Nader Mousavizadeh, Alison Smale
“When discussing Africa, it’s easy to overlook the most northern countries that more often are discussed in the same breath as the Middle East. But the subject of the Arab Spring found its way onto the agenda by
association. Whatever you hear about the Middle East, the change is real, important and enduring. There are new possibilities in the region for any investor with a long term perspective... There is a different Middle East
emerging. We have to overcome our stereotypes and look at the region like any other. The long period of Arab paralysis is over.”
THe promIse of AfrIcA Day One: Michael Zaoui
For Zaoui, Former Vice Chairman of Morgan Stanley Institutional Securities Group and founder of Zaoui Capital LLP, Africa always had the dynamic population and the vast national resources, but crucially, the continent lacked growth.
After a fairly stagnant period in the 80s and 90s, several factors have helped to reboot the African economy. Two of these were outlined by Zaoui as:
Rising commodity prices: “These have resulted in gains for oil and mineral rich countries. Commodities account for a quarter or a third of Africa’s growth.”
Mobile phones: “There are 316 million mobile subscribers, the highest mobile penetration rate in the world. You do a lot of things with a mobile in the West, but that’s nothing compared to Africa.”
$400 billion dollars of trade: When China grows, Africa grows. “It’s a myth that China is plundering Africa’s national resources to feed its own economic boom. China buys what it needs and develops local economy and infrastructure.
China has invested billions in copper but critically it has also diversified into other sectors such as power generation and construction. China’s investment is aiding the meteoric rise of the African middle class. Many private Chinese firms have followed into Africa to set up smaller manufacturing businesses.”
LUXURY 2012 ROMA NOVEMBER 15- 16
DAY ONE: Chinese investment in Africa: implications for its rising middle class “The Arab spring was about getting the accountability of a government. The trust and power have to be
legitimate and has to be earned. It’s a case for government, businesses and brands. This is a powerful global trend, and Africa has the most to benefit from it.
L-R: Jean Paul Gaultier, Farida Khelfa and Franca Sozzani
LUXURY 2012 ROMA NOVEMBER 15- 16
#IHTLUX
@WGSNDonatella Versace hints at big digital project to come. Digital is her current obsession. #IHTLux
@MatthewZorpasDonatella Versace ‘Africa is as important. They have similar skills of craftsmanship like in Italy’ @IHTLuxury #IHTLux
@LureofLuxeNow surrounded by the elder members of the Missoni family, swathed in their signature fabrics. I love this conference. #IHTLux
@Versace“Our relationship with the body and the sea is different in the South. The sea is our playground the year round...:-)” DV #IHTlux
DAY ONE: My Mediterranean: From Calabria to the World Donatella Versace took the stage for the closing session of the day for an interview with Suzy Menkes in which she shared how her background and upbrining influenced the Versace label.
L-R: Suzy Menkes, Donatella Versace, Lauren Bush Lauren, Hanneli Rupert
DAY ONE: From London to LagosL-R: Suzy Menkes, Omoyemi Akerele, Creative and Managing Director, Style House Files
and Duro Olowu discuss the fashion and luxury industry in Nigeria. Shoppers from Nigeria are in the top 5 highest spending nationalities at Selfridges.
LUXURY 2012 ROMA NOVEMBER 15- 16
posITIve cHAnGe THroUGH fAsHIonDAY TWO: Bono and Ali Hewson
“I’ve spent a lot of time on the continent of Africa, partly because it’s so vast and different, but also because Nelson Mandela and Desmond Tutu asked me,” said Bono. “They asked if I could use some of the accessories of fame to highlight challenges and solutions to some pretty macro problems the continent was facing, like debt and HIV/AIDS. They’re hard to turn down. In fact Tutu says if you don’t do what he asks you, he’ll ensure you don’t go to heaven. I’m pretty sure he’s got pull there!”
Bono went on to outline his work with (RED), the project in which
brands like Armani, Gap, Starbucks, Apple, Nike and many others have
donated profit shares from co-branded products to fight HIV/AIDS.
His wife, Ali, added “we fell in love with Africa in our mid-20s. The
continent puts you under a spell. There’s such a beauty to the landscape,
and couldn’t think of a more romantic place to focus a fashion company
on. We realized the back story was so important – in fact all the Africans
we spoke to said if you want to understand us, do business with us, so
we founded EDUN based on respect for the consumer, respect for the
person who made the clothes, respect for the community the clothes
were made in and respect for the materials used. It’s been tough, and a
huge learning curve, but an amazing journey.”
Talking of the balance between virtue and desire, the couple both
expressed their belief that the EDUN clothing range is not about ▶▶
DAY TWO: Positive change through fashion: Bono and Ali Hewson.
#IHTLUX
@laurenbushtweet“Its not about pity purchasing” Suzy Menkes speaking to Ali Hewson and Bono starting Edun. #IHTlux
@iht_rdv“We have to reboot the way we think about the continent,” says Bono about Africa at #IHTLux
@wgsnBono: The 21st century belongs to Africa, go ask the Chinese who are all moving there. #IHTLux
“People say that the 21st century belongs to China – but go and ask China and look where they’re
moving to! Africa is the future”
LUXURY 2012 ROMA NOVEMBER 15- 16
posITIve cHAnGe THroUGH fAsHIon (conT’D)DAY TWO: Bono and Ali Hewson
pity purchasing. “We’re in the want business, not the need business.
Desirability is sustainability,” said Ali, while Bono added “it’s important
to know that EDUN is not a charity, it’s a company. It has to get to scale.
We’re serious, committed and not going away”
Questioned by Suzy Menkes about the investment of LVMH in the
EDUN label, Ali noted that working with the luxury conglomerate gave
EDUN the best shot at growing the label into a global fashion brand.
The couple spoke of EDUN’s work with a program called Conservation
Cotton Initiative Uganda, a scheme involving 8535 independent,
smallholder cotton farmers, supplying materials for the EDUN range.
With Renzo Rosso, the founder of Diesel, still on-stage from the
previous session, Bono revealed that EDUN and Diesel would be
collaborating on a capsule collection, to be in stores from February 2013,
100% “grown and sewn” in Africa, and sold in Diesel stores and other
retailers, including 10 Corso Como and Colette.
“For us to be able to work with Diesel, who can take this to a different
volume, this is an amazing step for EDUN,” said Ali.
“Not charity, just work”
LUXURY 2012 ROMA NOVEMBER 15- 16
mIA romA!DAY TWO: Frida Giannini, Gucci & Giambattista Valli
The power of the Eternal City has influenced two very different Roman-raised designers. Frida Giannini and Giambattista Valli discussed what Rome meant to them, emotionally, visually and in their work as designers.
“Rome is my home town. I feel part of the landscape. There’s always something
fascinating - the lights and the color,” mused Frida Giannini.
For Giannini, Rome offers a creative respite: “To me it’s a place where I can take a
deep breath.”
Giannini dismissed the idea of Gucci launching a couture collection: “Not really.
It’s not something that you can invent. Of course as a designer it would be a dream, but
it’s not something you can do in 5 minutes. We’re doing the Premiere Line which isn’t a
commercial line. Gucci was born as a prêt-à-porter line, I think it’s important everyone
has their own space.”
Giambattista Valli described his impressions of Rome with a short film. A
wonderful evocation of the city, which Valli describes as an “open air movie set”, the
film was comprised of location footage, film clips, family photos and catwalk shows.
Valli’s early education in the Vatican School played an important role in the young
designer’s creative development: “It was a great visual experience, not a spiritual one.
It’s a beautiful place. Every morning you would walk through the Vatican gardens. It
was a very eclectic experience and I was only 6 at the time.”
For Valli, haute couture is an art that has suffered a little in Italy: “For me this art is
treated in Italy like a bit of a joke. It’s not really treated as the art it should be. When I
did my first show its because I wanted to share that experience. It’s not for the money,
you spend more money doing it. But it’s important. It supports the DNA of fashion.”
DAY TWO: Mia Roma!TOP: Frida Giannini, GucciGiambattista Valli
#IHTLUX
@luxechroniclesWe’re watching a video montage of Giambattista Valli’s influences: Italian cinema including Anouk Aime in La Dolce Vita #IHTlux
@gucci“Rome is full of suprises,” said Gucci’s Frida Giannini, here with Suzy Menkes during the #IHTLux Conference in Rome
“To me, it’s a place where I can take a deep breath”
LUXURY 2012 ROMA NOVEMBER 15- 16
LUXUry wITH A TrIbAL beATDAY TWO: Guillaume de Seynes, Hermès International
Hermès can trace its relations with Africa back to 1929 with Emile Hermès. In 1929 he went to the French exhibition in Cairo, to show the latest creations of Hermès. But since that early period Hermès has more recent stories from Africa, and one of the most longstanding associations comes from the ‘Fairy Queen’ of Hermès, Leila Menchari.
Menchari first started working with Hermès designing its
shop windows in Paris in 1978. “I won’t tell you her age,” said a
mischievous Guillaume de Seynes, Managing Director, Hermès
International, as he displayed a selection of Menchari’s work.
“I’m sure a lot of you are familiar with these fantastic windows.
She’s like a magician.”
Menchari has a house in Hammamet Tunisia with a garden
planted in the 1930s. A few years ago one of the themes
explored by Hermès was ‘A year of the Mediterranean’. The
fragrance team wanted to start a new a perfume line and so
Jean-Claude Ellena created a fragrance inspired by Menchari’s
Tunisian garden. A second fragrance in the series was inspired
by an Egyptian garden in Asswan.
More recently, the Toureg silversmiths in Niger have been
crafting silver accessories for Hermès since the 1980s. These
are works of true craftsmanship. Every piece is different, but
working with these craftsmen is not without challenges,
explained de Seynes: “You can’t tell them about planning or
logistics. We had to teach them the systems and finance the
silver, but the result is fantastic.”
1997 saw Jean-Louis Dumas name Africa as the theme of
the year. This inspired one of the most striking advertising
campaigns undertaken by Hermès, full of evocative African
imagery. As part of this Africa theme, Hermès used the designs
of a talented 14-year old Sudanese artist Sefedin Kwumi on
a series of scarves, and some of these creations went on to
become best sellers.
It is difficult to open stores in Africa, explained de Seynes.
“When we enter a new market we like to go with a local
partner. A lot of Hermès is about encounters and so far we
have not found the right person to go with to Africa.” When
challenged by a question from the audience about not being in
Africa, despite the level of demand from the brand, de Seynes
was philosophical but optimistic in his response: “It’s true we
have customers from Nigeria and Angola,” he admitted, “but
Hermès is 175 years old and we take our time. I’m sure we’ll
find opportunities.”
DAY TWO: Guillaume de Seynes
“So far we have not found the right person to go with to Africa. ”
#IHTLUX
@Luxecorp One of the oldest employees at Hermes is from Tunisia & has been working at Hermes for 50 years @ihtluxury #IHTLux
LUXURY 2012 ROMA NOVEMBER 15- 16
rome AnD THe essence of vALenTInoDAY TWO : Pierpaolo Piccioli and Maria Grazia Chiuri
Pierpaolo Piccioli and Maria Grazia Chiuri are creative directors at Valentino. By way of preface to their session on stage, the audience was treated to a screening of ‘l’Unica’, shot especially for the conference.
‘l’Unica’ conveyed the magic of creation that takes place in
the background of fashion, and celebrates the role and skill of
the seamstress. “Sometimes it’s difficult to describe the work
of the seamstress,” explained Chiuri, “They are the soul of the
brand. Each dress is like a short story and we wanted to express
that in the film.”
“The beauty lies in the tension between the apparent
simplicity and the hours of work that go into it,” continued
Piccioli. “We wanted to show the behind the scenes aspect you
never see on the runway. It’s the daily poetry of making couture.”
Piccioli and Chiuri enjoy a close, almost symbiotic
professional relationship (“We don’t have specific rules, we
have a good partnership.”) On stage they finish one another’s
sentences, and their enthusiasm for all things Rome and
Valentino is obvious. “We were very proud to work in such a
legendary house,” explained Piccioli. “We were very young.
Very different from the others and we looked a bit out of place.
But they sensed our passion for fashion. They understood that
we really loved the couture world.”
“They were surprised we knew so much, said Chiuri. It’s
because we are Roman. We love the Valentino values: elegance,
beauty, glamor.”
For Piccioli, these values need to be communicated to a new
generation: “A new generation needs values. In terms of fashion
our challenge is to give a new generation the culture of couture.
We find a good balance between the Valentino brand and our
own personal style. We’re obsessed with those iconic pieces.
Today as never before, innovation comes from the past.”
“Valentino is an Italian brand,” continued Chiuri, “and
Italian is synonymous with quality, style and craftsmanship.”
Even in the online age however, it is still Rome that drives
inspiration for Piccioli: “Now you can go everywhere with just
a click, so you get inspiration from everywhere. But it’s when
you get back home and we filter that through our Roman
sensibility – that’s when the work begins.
When you look at Rome, you see the eternal city, you see
the lines on clothes on sculptures. Rome is beautiful and
perfect. It’s not a museum, it’s alive. The Roma I like is the one
I still have to discover.”
Pierpaolo Piccioli and Maria Grazia Chiuri
#IHTLUX
@liviafirth#MGChiuri&PPPiccioli #Valentino beautiful film on the importance of the women behind our clothes #IHTLux
@IHTLux Maria Grazia Chiuri: We love the Valentino values but have to reinterpret that with our own values and vision #IHTLux
“It’s the daily poetry of making couture.”
LUXURY 2012 ROMA NOVEMBER 15- 16
AfrIcA: fAsHIon cApITALDay Two: Franca Sozzani, Italian Vogue
Livia Firth, Eco Age
Franca Sozzani encapsulated the modern Africa, and its misconceptions with an anecdote from her recent travels.
On a trip to Ghana, Sozzani was in full tourist mode, taking
pictures of everything she could, including the people. When
she stopped to take a picture of an old lady, the woman
protested: “No no no no no, I don’t want to be on Facebook!”
It’s a fun story, but funny because we don’t expect an old
Ghanaian lady to understand the idea of Facebook, and this for
Sozzani, is central to Africa’s problem. “Africa of course has
problems but it’s not all about that. Africa is rebranding and
changing. We are the people who have to stop seeing Africa as
a continent full of bad things. Also, Africa is a continent, not
a country, and me must start to treat it like a lot of different
countries.”
Joined on stage by Livia
Firth, friend and creative
director of Eco Age, Sozzani was
clear about what the next
practical steps were for African fashion: “I think that at this
point we have to make a choice. We don’t have 100 good
designers in Europe, so there can’t be 100 good designers in
Africa. If we make a selection, we can make a good offer to the
market, and if you make a good offer to the market you can get
distribution. If you try too fast, it’s overwhelming and people
get confused.”
“It’s time to get on with the job now,” agreed Firth. “It’s not
enough to accuse African countries of being corrupt, just look
at Italy!”
One of the key problems is that local demand for luxury
fashion isn’t being met by a retail culture. “I wanted to talk to
the government of Nigeria,” said Sozzani. “It’s a great country,
a rich country. When you arrive at the airport you’ve never
seen so many private planes in your life. But [their owners] all
live in London, they’re doing their shopping in London. There
are no shops, or if there are shops you don’t know where they
are. They need to prepare the country, otherwise people don’t
spend. Nigerians are spending in the United States, Switzerland
and London. They have to support it themselves if they want
this in their country.”
Firth went on to talk about the need for investing in
training in Africa: “I’ve only been to the slums but I saw the
resilience, the willingness and the creativity. The problem is
we need to support these. By 2035, the average African will
be 28, and they need to be trained. What does it take for our
designers to properly invest in Africa and start producing there?
Africa has a high potential to
become the leading ecological
and sustainable manufacturer in
the world by learning from the
mistakes of Cambodia and India.
Africa’s already had a slave trade we don’t meed to impose
another one by forcing them to make cheap clothes.”
Livia Firth is well known for promoting ethical fashion on
the red carpet at high profile events, aided by her husband’s
successful film career. “It started as a game, if I could get on
every red carpet in ethical fashion,” she explained. “I set the
challenge and we’re all doing it together now.”
Firth and Sozzani are, in their own way, very much fashion
activists. Using the power of what they do to try and effect
some positive change in the world, and having fun with it.
L-R: Suzy Menkes, Livia Firth and Franca Sozzani
“Africa’s already had a slave trade, we don’t need to impose another one by forcing them to make
cheap clothes. ”
LUXURY 2012 ROMA NOVEMBER 15- 16
cHALLenGInG percepTIon of proDUcTs from AfrIcA
Day Two: Andrew Hunt
“Of all the botanical species in the world, more than 25% originate from Africa, but less than 7% of the leading medicinal extracts. That statistic tells us one thing: there is a HUGE pipeline of unique and extraordinary natural products just bursting to emerge from Africa - and the beautiful thing is - almost all of them are cultivated or owned by rural smallholders.”
Hunt, a former advertising executive, founded Aduna after
spending four years in The Gambia, managing a project called
Gambia is Good, for which he worked with rural smallholders.
On his return to London, Hunt was struck by the lack of
premium African and African-inspired brands in mainstream
retailers in Europe and the U.S. Instead, Hunt noted that only
“Fair Trade” products were on the shelves of retailers – a
conversation he claims is rooted in the past.
According to Hunt, it’s time for a new conversation – one
about products from Africa and brands that celebrate Africa –
not the Africa of the tourist craft market, but the Africa which
is the “most potent and unique source of vibrancy on the
planet.” Thus Aduna was born – a premium health and beauty
brand based on the fruit of Africa’s iconic Baobab Tree, rich in
vitamins, antioxidants and nutrients.
Beyond details of the product itself, Hunt spoke
passionately about the production of the wild-harvested
Baobab fruit – which involves community farmers and
individual households, rather than industrial plantations – and
which is worth a potential one billion dollars. AfrIcA UnmAskeD AnD UnAbAsHeDDay Two: Uché Okonkwo
“Everyone talks about Africa. Africa is a place full of confusing paradoxes. Africa is a continent going through a kind of emotional turmoil. It’s a continent full of opportunities too….How do you do business with a wounded people? Is Africa ready for luxury?”
In her session, Okonkwo explored the legacy of Africa’s
past, before talking about today’s consumer. Referring to
Africa’s demographic dividend with 70% of the population
aged under 30, Okonkwo asked: “who are these consumers?
They’re young, vibrant, educated and professional. They’re
aspirational. They love luxury. They love beauty.”
Okonkwo discussed the use of mobile phones in Africa,
noting there were Africans who had never seen or used a
computer, but were connected to the internet via his or her
mobile phone, banking online, connected to social networks
and interacting with brands. Uché Okonkwo
LUXURY 2012 ROMA NOVEMBER 15- 16
THe LAsT emperor of sHoesDAY TWO: Inspired by Africa, Made in Italy
Manolo Blahnik was born to a Spanish mother and Czech father on the Canaries - the outcrop of volcanic islands that although part of Spain are nearer to Africa than the Spanish mainland. Blahnik’s pop culture education came by way of the sounds of north African pop music through his father’s Philips radio.
As his contemporaries in the the West were following first
Elvis, and later the Beatles, Blahnik listened to Fela Kuti. In
the words of Suzy Menkes, Blahnik’s childhood was “perfumed
with the scent of Africa.” Indeed, if one takes the time to
examine his extensive archive, the examples of African
influenced designs are legion and manifold. “Cecil Beaton told
me once, ‘You always have a
little bit of Africana in your
designs’” confessed Blahnik.
The account of how a young Blahnik once took his sketches
to Diana Vreeland, only for her to tell him to go away and
concentrate on designing shoes is well documented, and the
story was only mentioned to confirm its veracity. “It’s all true,”
said Blahnik, “I followed her advice and that’s how I got started
designing shoes…although it was Saint Laurent who was
responsible for my African madness,” although he later
admitted that one of his favourite creations was a Maasai-
inspired sandal for Galliano.
The conversation with Manolo Blahnik was littered with
names from fashion folklore past and present, although his
tone was never pretentious. Blahnik had affable charm to burn,
– there’s a definite sense in the audience that they would not
mind if the conference was extended for an extra day to allow
for tales of the London fashion scene of the 70s with stories of
Ossie Clark and Tina Chow.
At the same time a Blahnik retrospective seems inappropriate,
given how current his name remains, having discovered a new
audience through associations with a new crop of designers like
Victoria Beckham. “It’s not really anything to do with me,” he
confessed, “it’s all my niece [Kristina Blahnik]. But I can tell
you that she [Victoria Beckham] is very gifted, and she works
like a devil. She has an incredible sense of the past.”
Blahnik shared his love of England, naming it his place (his
second is Italy). His house in Bath, where his niece now lives
along with something like 30,000 shoes, “But I only have single
shoes, there aren’t any pairs. A
woman with one leg would be
very happy there.”
Despite his fondness for England and his “African scented”
upbringing, it is Italy and Rome which are the spiritual, and
production, home of Blahnik’s shoe empire. Italy is the second
country Blahnik “couldn’t be without”. His Italy is immor-
talised in the films of Anna Magnani and Monica Vitti, which
fascinated a young Manolo and can be seen as the starting
point for his love affair with the country. “All the shoes are
made in Italy - absolutely,” he explained, “Everything up from
the smallest buckle. I was invited to try it in other places like
Spain, but I do not like the way they make them anywhere
else.” When asked about what particular skills the Italians
possess, he replied simply, “Magic”.
Manolo Blahnik, “The last emperor of shoes”
#IHTLUX
@AtelierLondonManolo talks his early days in a charming, self deprecating way. He wanted to be a set designer & Diana Vreeland suggested shoes.#IHTLux
“Blahnik has affable charm to burn”
LUXURY 2012 ROMA NOVEMBER 15- 16
#IHTLUX
@WGSNSelfridges is planning a Nigerian pop-up store in December based on what it saw at Lagos fashion & design week. #ihtlux
@luxechronicles“I don’t understand why we still don’t see one single premium main stream brand from Africa. Instead, we get cliches.” (Andrew Hunt) #IHTLux
@IHTLuxury@Luxecorp’s Uche Okonkwo: People now care less about what Westerners have to say about Africa than what Africa itself has to say #ihtlux
@luxurysociety#IHTLux P&G Prestige have grown Gucci and D&G fragrance business by over 250% by leveraging heritage & provenance cues
@azzafahmySimone Cipriani: “True luxury is sustainable, enviornmentally sound, and always desirable” #IHTLux @IHTLuxury
@IHTLuxuryJoanne Crewes, President of P&G Global Prestige saying that dreams and aspirations are universal. Everyone wants to be beautiful #ihtlux
@merchantsonlong“Most of the world is stumbling while Africa is getting stronger.” Jochen Zeitz #IHTLux
@luxurysociety#IHTLux 6th generation Hermès family member Guillaume de Seynes just referred to the brand as a ‘small French company’
@luxurysociety#IHTLux Many speakers have mentioned the power of ‘meaningful’ objects that invoke ‘emotion’ as true luxury in a democratized market.
#IHTLUX
@luxurysociety#IHTLux Many speakers have mentioned the power of ‘meaningful’ objects that invoke ‘emotion’ as true luxury in a democratized market.
@IHTLuxury@AdunaWorld Andrew Hunt: Fairtrade has done an amazing job, but that label is part of a conversation rooted in the past #IHTLux
@luxecorpNigeria is one of the 5 countries that account for 95% of China’s trade with Africa #ihtluxury #IHTLux #fashion #retail #afr
@HauTeFashionAFR#IHTLux: Manolo Blahnik really believes that a handmade shoe is a testament to respect, for the inspiration, the craftspeople, & consumer
@LuxurySociety @IHTLux A recurring idea this morning that aid & charity has proved counter effective for Africa. The future focus is doing real business
@IHTLuxury @Luxecorps Uche Okonkwo: People now care less about what Westerners have to say about Africa than what Africa itself has to say @ihtlux
@versace“I want to focus on digital in the future” #DonatellaVersace #IHTlux @IHTluxury
@luxurysociety#IHTLux @AshokSom explains that the more desirable a luxury brand, the more it sells. But the more it sells, the less desirable it becomes.
@twedun“Unless you give people the dignity of work, you will not be able to extract them from the cycle of conflict.” #IHTLux
@marian_kihogoMy hope is that it does not end with the end of the @IHTLuxury #ihtlux conference + that businesses do go and invest in trade across Africa
@diesel#Bono: By 2050 half of the world’s youth will live on one continent, think about that @IHTLuxury #IHTLux #Africa
@okapiafrica @IHTLuxury #IHTlux thankyou Michael Zaoui ANYONE who wants to understand & work in Africa must read Dambisa Moyo’s Dead Aid - Africa agrees!
@maiyet“This is a turning point for luxury - it’s about craft and love and the human touch” - Suzy Menkes speaking at #IHTLux
@matthewzorpasJean Paul Gaultier ‘On my first Couture collection I only sold two pieces. Now I sell a bit more.’ @IHTLuxury @JPGaultier #IHTLux
@wgsnAll I’ve heard today is abt middle class consumer as future. absolute nonsense, climate change means future in doubt. Viv Westwood #IHTLux
@luxurysociety#IHTLux Pernod Ricard have opened subsidiaries in Namibia, Kenya, Angola, with Ghana to follow, creating local jobs in Africa
LUXUry mInDeD, socIALLy AwAre#IHTLUX
The International Herald Tribune Luxury 2012 hashtag was popular enough to trend worldwide.
Tweets quoting statistics and words of wisdom from speakers set the Twittersphere alight with discussions about the role of luxury and fashion brands in the future of Africa. Here are some of the best.
LUXURY 2012 ROMA NOVEMBER 15- 16
500 delegates
From 33 countires
7, 000+
livestream views
Valentino Garavani has
11,000+dresses in storage
1,491 tweets using #IHTLux from
543 different contributors
Total twitter reach:
988,928 accounts with
6,227,341 impressions
30,000: The number of single shoes in
Manolo Blahnik’s house in Bath,
England
The IHT Luxury Conference in numbers
The International Herald Tribune thanks all the speakers, sponsors and participants whose contribution and support have made this year’s luxury conference such a success.
LUXURY 2012 ROMA
Thank you
Principal Sponsor
Sponsors
The International Herald Tribune thanks all the speakers, sponsors and participants whose contribution and support have made this year’s luxury conference such a success.
L UXURY 2012 ROMA
Thank you
Principal Sponsor
Sponsors
The International Herald Tribune thanks all the speakers, sponsors and participants whose contribution and support have made this year’s luxury conference such a success.
LUXU R Y 20 1 2 R O MA
Thank you
Principal Sponsor
Sponsors
LUXURY 2012 ROMA NOVEMBER 15- 16
The International Herald Tribune (IHT) is the premier international newspaper for
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Text by Mark St. Andrew and Adrian Ting.
©International Herald Tribune, 2012.