Ignite Issue 001
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C o n t e n t sO p t i v i t y6124H e a t
Phase One: PurityKey DriversColour StoryFabric StoryRange Plan
Phase One: BlessedKey DriversColour StoryFabric StoryRange Plan
Phase Two: VirtualKey DriversColour StoryFabric StoryRange Plan
Phase One: Luxe-SetKey DriversColour StoryFabric StoryRange Plan
C o n t e n t s
Phase Two: VirtualKey DriversColour StoryFabric StoryRange Plan
Phase One: Luxe-SetKey DriversColour StoryFabric StoryRange Plan
S S 1 4
OptimismPositivity Simplicity
YouthFun Learning
InspireChallenge
HeatGrowExcite
SS14 Overview Nostalgia
TrustSimplicity
Technological responsibilityYouth
Positivity
GamificationHackingEditing
LearningOptimism
Rio de Janiero Blessed nation
ResourcesHope
Social ResponsibilityCommunity
Emerging affluentLuxury
Female empowermentBuisnessEconomy
Brands
K e y D R I V E R S
Tim WalkerProduct InfluenceThe LookChloe Cooper
K e y D R I V E R S
Tim WalkerProduct InfluenceThe LookChloe Cooper
S_S14/Optivity/Purity/Key Drivers/Tim Walker: Storyteller
From life size dolls to flying saucers Tim Walker’s photography props were standing pride of place at Somerset House for Storyteller the imaginative exhibition at Somerset House.
Walker’s equally mysterious, entic-ing and imaginative fashion pho-tography has made him world-re-nowned. He plays with the world of fairy tales and dreams combining them with a considerate approach to couture to create his photo-graphs. The exhibition included some of his finest works for brands and top publishing houses, Mulber-ry and Condè Nast respectively.
T i m W a l k e r : S t o r y t e l l e r
S_S14/Optivity/Purity/Key Drivers/Tim Walker: Storyteller
T i m W a l k e r : S t o r y t e l l e r
Storyteller explores the ideas of child-hood through his photography, as often the models are small in size compared to the props and surroundings almost in a child-like fashion. The wonder and complexity of the images are cleverly balanced and still simplistic and honest. These themes inspire the Purity phase of the Optivity trend, focusing on the child-like details and muted tones and colours. Styling of the photo shoots is quintes-sentially British with a traditional and yet contemporary spin with youthful and innocent detailing’s. This quirky whole-some aesthetic is at the heart of the Pu-rity phase of Optivity.
S_S14/Optivity/Purity/Key Drivers/Tim Walker: Storyteller
S_S14/Optivity/Purity/Key Drivers/Tim Walker: Storyteller
ChildhoodFunyouth
visionImagination
positivity
images:Tim walker-Story-teller (Somerset House)
Kimberley Jacobsz
S_S14/Optivity/Purity/Key Drivers/Product Design
Happiness through simplicity is the Key Driv-er for the Purity phase and this is reflected through product design. Combining tech-nology to really simplified design and use in every day life is key. The functions binge on products will be rejected in the future as con-sumers demand for simpler more efficient products stripped of excess and of unused functions.
Products with raw elements and untreated materials combine with technology to create this new style. The pairing down of packag-ing and referring back to a more pure and honest way of creating and selling a product, this is evident in Gillette’s packaging pro-ject. The Victorian style illustrations are used to demonstrate a nod to the past but at the same time remain contemporary with the choice of typeface, captions and alignment. These design flags are being witnessed all over the product world as consumers de-mand packaging be simple and at a mini-mum if it isn’t partially of wholly recyclable.
Purity supports primarily a lack of frills, with ideas and products that are quirky and make sense… a brilliant idea that works whilst re-moving any excesses.
S_S14/Optivity/Purity/Key Drivers/Product Design
Images from top left row: Wireflow’, a new project by designer Arik Levy for light manufacturer VIBIA; Knot
Pendant Lamp by Vitamin; Sitting Chairs by Lucas Maasen; Tax Forms
project by FormNation; Birth certif-icates by IWANT for Icon magazine; Two dip cups by Up in the air some-where; French Soap via Alder & Co.;
Gillette; christina schou chris-tensen, shaping fluid; Fifty Fifty
Projects, Eyjafjallajökull.
PRODUCT INFLUENCE
S_S14/Optivity/Purity/Key Drivers/ The Look
S_S14/Optivity/Purity/Key Drivers/ The Look
THE LOOK
The Purity phase looks at Nostalgia and how tech-nology helps us to archive and create a format for viewing our past. Posi-tivity and optimism are the key features of the trend and this is translat-ed heavily into the look of the trend.
Shapes are almost child-ish with loose fitting and boxy style garments giv-ing a nod back to the days when tweens would lie in fields picking daisies and
listening to The Shangri-Las. Today more than ever we quest of that nostal-gic life but with the aid of technological develop-ment we can create our own new nostalgic way of living, morphing the elements of old into the streamline wave of the fu-ture.
In particular the Resort 2014 collections of Just Cavalli and Moschino Cheap and Chic echo this feel. They combine a kooky
IMAGES VIA Style.com Just Cavalli Resort 2014
S_S14/Optivity/Purity/Key Drivers/ The Look
S_S14/Optivity/Purity/Key Drivers/ The Look
THE LOOK
girlish vibe through the print and the mi-ni-dresses alongside the more modern feel through details such as the contrast sleeves, large con-trast lapels and boxy shoulders. The pastel palette ties in so well and makes for a bril-liant visual reference for the Purity trend.
Although at a high-end designer level these elements can be taken into more mid market levels as demonstrated in the range plan.
Here’s what Style.com said about these collections…
‘Candy-colored tie-
IMAGES VIA Style.com Just Cavalli Resort 2014
S_S14/Optivity/Purity/Key Drivers/ The Look
dye swirls, daisies (both printed and embroi-dered), scads of macramé lace, and a graphic shift spelling out “PEACE” were dead giveaways that the hippie 1960s were the theme of the new Moschino Cheap And Chic Resort collec-tion. Francesca Rubino and Rossella Jardini con-jured up a modern flower child with crocheted maxi
dresses and bell-sleeve baby dolls that would fit right in at any of this summer’s big music fes-tivals. Less costume-y pieces like an accordi-on-pleat leather skirt and wide-leg cropped trou-sers seemed more versa-tile by comparison. The free-spirited lineup was a total 180 from the label’s punk-spiked Fall runway show, but everything
S_S14/Optivity/Purity/Key Drivers/ The Look
THE LOOK
IMAGES VIA Style.com Just Cavalli Resort 2014
S_S14/Optivity/Purity/Key Drivers/ The Look
considered, we suspect the Cheap And Chic girl has always been more of a lover than an fighter, any-way.’ Style.com
Roberto Cavalli’s customer is the tough-as-nails kind of girl who never leaves the house without a smudged ring of kohl around her eyes, so it was a change of pace to see the Just Cavalli
design team tap into her softer side for Resort. The new lineup achieved this fresh sense of lightness by fusing bucolic florals with Japanese art motifs—all of which were, of course, mixed up with Cavalli’s signature animal prints. ’ Style.com
S_S14/Optivity/Purity/Key Drivers/ The Look
THE LOOK
IMAGES VIA Style.com Just Cavalli Resort 2014
S_S14/Optivity/Purity/Key Drivers/ The Look
Chloe Cooper, a fashion BA(Hons) stu-dent from Nottingham Trent University, showcased her final collection at Gradu-ate Fashion Week this year. The Final Col-lection was developed around the idea of the ‘Retro Future: past predictions for our future development. Full of optimism and ambition, the collection has a bright, playful feel, with clean, flirty shapes and relaxed structures. There is a strong focus on innovative stitch development and combination of yarns’. The shapes were youthful and inspired by the sixties with boxy shapes and shift dresses along with the pastel palette. Chloe’s collection is a driver for the Purity phase; even down to the styling with the childlike innocent feel being emphasised with the ankle socks and sandals. Like Purity she keeps it mod-ern with her contemporary use of textiles
and knit, the geometric prints and clash-ing shapes nod to the future, in Chloe’s words her ‘Retro Future’.
Chloe’s collection could almost be con-sidered as being conservative as she has high necklines and loose fit shapes, this supports the ideas of purity and minimal-ism. Her collection also has a particularly feminine feel to it, not only by the col-our palette but also by the emphasis on the dress and the co-ordinating tops and skirts. She also infuses the retro element by having little accompanying jackets to go with the dresses; this again gives it a more 1960’s feel. On the other hand, the outfits could also be compared to a child’s dolls clothes mainly down to the simple shapes, and mix and match styling.
C h l o e C o o p e r : R e t r o F u t u r e
S_S14/Optivity/Purity/Key Drivers/ The Look
C h l o e C o o p e r : R e t r o F u t u r e
THE LOOK
C o l o u r S t o r y
C o l o u r S t o r y
Images clockwise from top left: Fifty Fifty Pro-
jects, Eyjafjallajökull; HHD_FUN with Aaajiao – Xu
Wenkai | Embedded Pro-ject; PAOLOERRICO | NOT
JUST A LABEL; Lucas Maas-sen; Alberto Campo Baeza,
casa guerrero.
S_S14/Optivity/Purity/Colour/ Colour Exploration
S_S14/Optivity/Purity/Colour/ Colour Exploration
Pastel Blue
Grey
Stone
Vivid Green
S_S14/Optivity/Purity/Colour/ Colour Mood Board
S_S14/Optivity/Purity/Colour/ Colour Mood Board
Phase One Purity: Colour
BASE COLOURS
TREND COLOURSPANTONE 7541C PANTONE 1C PANTONE 454C
PANTONE 407C PANTONE 7527C PANTONE 7499C
PANTONE 570C PANTONE 7543C PANTONE 5493C
Optivity is a bright and optimistic trend with depth in its values such as learning and a consideration for design. The Purity phase looks at a more tra-ditional and simplistic way of living to create hap-piness rather than happiness through gain. This is carried through into the colour palette where a more nostalgic palette is adopted through warped and muted summer shades, simple low impact col-ours such as stone and grey form the base colours, whilst the trend colours- also muted give the pal-ette it’s summer warmth.
The palette is inspired by the colour choices in
product design for the future and by Tim Walkers photography; the muted nostalgic palette is being spotted already in design and will form the struc-ture of the Purity trend.
The childlike hues include powder and salmon pink, honey gold shades with washed out dreamy blues and ocean greens.
PANTONE 501C
PANTONE 705C
Phase One Purity: Colour
PANTONE 7457C PANTONE 9C
PANTONE 501C PANTONE 545C
PANTONE 705C PANTONE 616C
F A B R I C S t o r y
F A B R I C S t o r y
S_S14/Optivity/Purity/Fabric
S_S14/Optivity/Purity/Fabric
Fabric
Images from top left clockwise: Ev-erest textile; Maruwa; Mectex div;
Liberty art fabrics; gallus; lanifi-cio luigi ricceri.
GinghamCottonLinenFloral print
S_S14/Optivity/Purity/Fabric
S_S14/Optivity/Purity/Fabric
Fabric
SyntheticLeatherAcrylicBoucle
Images from top left clockwise: Lan-zar;; Gallus; Moden; peiti;petit;-
petit
S_S14/Optivity/Purity/Fabric
S_S14/Optivity/Purity/Fabric
Fabric
Broderie AnglaiseAppliqueLaser cut
All images Via Lanzar Jaipar PEtit
Mood BoardRange PlanZoom
R A N G E P L A N
Mood BoardRange PlanZoom
S_S14/Optivity/Purity/Range Plan/ Mood Board
S_S14/Optivity/Purity/Range Plan/ Mood Board
S_S14/Optivity/Purity/Range Plan/ Range Plan
S_S14/Optivity/Purity/Range Plan/ Range Plan
S_S14/Optivity/Purity/Range Plan/Zoom
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Large lapel two layered heavyweight spring jacket
Sheer shirt with contrasting sleeves and fly opening button stand
Wide leg shorts with contrast panels and hidden clasp and zip fastening
Boxy 3/4 sleeve jacket with oversized pock-ets and panels. Centre back seam detail on
the back
3/4 sleeved dress with contrasting sleeves. Structural shaping seams and a exposed
zip down the centre back. Flute pleat open-ing down the centre on the skirt with con-
trasting fabric, boxy shape.
S_S14/Optivity/Purity/Range Plan
Boxy shaped cropped shirt, with full length exposed zip down centre back
Elasticated waist skirt with front wrap over detail in contrasting fabric
Dress with sheer sleeves and front panel, deep V and side slits on skirt sheer piece.. Full length zip down centre back and waist
seams across the back
High waisted cropped trousers with waist darts and side zip
Sleeveless dress with princess seams and skater style skirt. Keyhole opening at back
and panels at the front
K e y D R I V E R S
Architecture InfluenceAAAJIAOOmelya AtelierThe Look
K e y D R I V E R S
Architecture InfluenceAAAJIAOOmelya AtelierThe Look
S_S14/Optivity/Virtual/Key Drivers/Architecture Design
Architecture is a key driver for the Optivity trend; the world is changing its agenda with regards to learning and the way we learn. New centres of learning (previously called libraries) are popping up all over the globe, all with the main aim of making learning en-gaging. You may be used to your own public library… possibly a building from the 1990’s with a distinct lack of style, maybe you can remember the musty smell of old books? And people?
Libraries are even places where the home-less tend to ‘hang’ these day’s, in principle there is nothing wrong with this but it doesn’t make the library the one of the most attrac-tive of leisure activities. As well as the ide-as of the ‘bookworm’, well that’s an ancient idea in itself. In these libraries of learning you may not even be greeted by one single book in your entire experience there. These new learning centres are at the forefront of tech-nology and include some of the most highly anticipated technologies in the world. These centres are springing up as public libraries, in schools, hospitals, businesses and the build-ings are attracting some of the worlds most formidable and talented architects who are fighting to work on these new learning hub projects.
ARCHITECTURE INFLUENCE
S_S14/Optivity/Virtual/Key Drivers/Architecture Design
Images from Top left clockwise: Draisci Studio at Clerkenwell De-
sign Week 2012; Penleigh and Essen-don Grammar School Senior by McBride Charles Ryan;; Elena Garro Cultural Centre by Fernanda Canales and Ar-
quitectura; villa-f-by-hornung-jac-obi Lot 2, Jardins de la Lironde
by Farshid Moussavi Architecture; Alberto Campo Baeza, casa guerre-
ro; Reflections on Health Department Building in Bilbao
ARCHITECTURE INFLUENCEThe buildings themselves include, reflective surfaces, misplaced floors, and blurring of the traditional walls, floor and window com-binations we might be used to. Merging and blurring what we deem as the norm in public buildings, Glass elevations with trees inside of the buildings are seen in the top right im-age, a recent re-build of a public library pro-ject.
The sheer money being plunged into these projects around the world show us the up and coming importance of architecture and learning and how they can help each other.
X u W e n k a iA a a j i a o
About Placebo - Xu Wenkai Solo Exhibition
Placebo is a new series by Xu Wenkai, which consists of BDSQ, HAL, Text Format and Poor Mining. Together shown with this series are works from a different series, titled Cy-bernetics, made by the artist in 2009 and 2010. These works form a small documents, aiming at systematic and thorough examining the way of thinking, art making, expressing and presenting of this young and active media artist, so as to manifest his capability.
In Cybernetics series, the artist tries to reconsider data, the object of information technology inquiry, and comes up with an interesting and witty presentation on data’s existence, form, and perceptibility with Cloud Data, Water Measure and
Blog Archaeology. In the latest Placebo series, artist turns to the stream of data flow, which engenders new structures, as well as the visual inertia and placebo effect.
Therefore this exhibition seems to be made up of a biography and a prequel of this biography. Such structure facilitates our understanding of artist’s distinct trait: on one hand, unique artwork construction methods, and on the other hand, the artistic conversion of artist’s know-how and thoughts in cer-tain fields.
A spectrogram is a time-varying spectral representation[1] (forming an image) that shows how the spectral density of a signal varies with time. Also known as spectral waterfalls, sonograms, voiceprints, or voicegrams, spectrograms are
S_S14/Optivity/Virtual/Key Drivers/AAAJIAO
clouds.data project
Blog Archaeology. In the latest Placebo series, artist turns to the stream of data flow, which engenders new structures, as well as the visual inertia and placebo effect.
Therefore this exhibition seems to be made up of a biography and a prequel of this biography. Such structure facilitates our understanding of artist’s distinct trait: on one hand, unique artwork construction methods, and on the other hand, the artistic conversion of artist’s know-how and thoughts in cer-tain fields.
A spectrogram is a time-varying spectral representation[1] (forming an image) that shows how the spectral density of a signal varies with time. Also known as spectral waterfalls, sonograms, voiceprints, or voicegrams, spectrograms are
used to identify phonetic sounds, to analyse the cries of ani-mals; they were also used in many other fields including mu-sic, sonar/radar, speech processing,[2] seismology, etc. The instrument that generates a spectrogram is called a spectro-graph.----wikipedia
“Slitscan imaging techniques are used to create static imag-es of time-based phenomena. In traditional film photogra-phy, slit scan images are created by exposing film as it slides past a slit-shaped aperture. In the digital realm, thin slices are extracted from a sequence of video frames, and concate-nated into a new image.”--- Golan Levin
S_S14/Optivity/Virtual/Key Drivers/AAAJIAO
O m e l y a A t e l i e r
S_S14/Optivity/Virtual/Key Drivers/Omelya Atelier
A key reference point for Optivity is OME-LYA atelier, the up and coming brand of Ko-stya Omelya a Ukrainian designer.
Omelya’s focus is always on dresses, paying particular attention to the feminine silhou-ette. Oh and did we mention … he loves a hat or two.
The collections are distinctly contemporary with a strong use of cut and shape. The SS13 collection takes hold of the quintessential elements of Optivity from the use of a clean
colour palette with inspirational flicks of neon’s and blacks, to the functional almost child like shapes and panels. The garments are free of any embellishment and excessive over texturised fabrics, paling back to a sim-pler aesthetic thus increasing simplicity.
Design details are key at Omelya, function and simplicity combined. Pleats and splits are mixed with panels and cut outs to create a sport-max style silhouette. The zips and functional aspects are concealed and the darts sharp and severe. Garments that are
Image Via omelyaatelier.com/ : SS13 promo shoot
S_S14/Optivity/Virtual/Key Drivers/Omelya Atelier
O m e l y a A t e l i e r
S_S14/Optivity/Virtual/Key Drivers/Omelya Atelier
O m e l y a A t e l i e r SS13
THE LOOKnot afraid to shout about their construction. In Optivity there is no shy-ing away, clarity and cre-ativity create a breath of fresh air from ‘fuddy dud-dy’ draping and excessive applique that the AW12 collections bought. We are heading into a new optic.
Did someone say Doll? The advertising campaign has been photographed with a mixture of models and mannequins in ex-pressional poses. The doll like modelling echoes the eccentric youth and fun of the shoot continuing the theme of the collection.
Omelya says ‘what the hell’ when it comes to the
styling, in this shoot all the rules are broken. Dresses with skirts and trousers, wide leg trousers and slit front dresses it’s all hap-pening within this collec-tion. A kitsch nod comes in the way of neon pat-ent pointed toe stilettos. ‘Boo!’ But wait… the gar-ish shoes clash beautifully with the bold yet simple outfits.
Kostya is a new breed of designer taking the doom and gloom out of fashion, that we have seen rearing its ugly head over the past years. A new wave of opti-mism is coming and Ome-lya sure is ready… are you?
S_S14/Optivity/Virtual/Key Drivers/Omelya Atelier
CleanFreshLightSheerSmart
S_S14/Optivity/Virtual/Key Drivers/The Look
THE LOOK
IMAGES VIA Style.com Just Cavalli Resort 2014
CleanFreshLightSheerSmart
S_S14/Optivity/Virtual/Key Drivers/The Look
TechnologyFutureSmart FabricsReflections
S_S14/Optivity/Virtual/Key Drivers/The Look
THE LOOK
IMAGES VIA Style.com Just Cavalli Resort 2014
S_S14/Optivity/Virtual/Key Drivers/The Look
YouthStrikingForwardsStrong
S_S14/Optivity/Virtual/Key Drivers/The Look
THE LOOK
IMAGES VIA Style.com Just Cavalli Resort 2014
YouthStrikingForwardsStrong
S_S14/Optivity/Virtual/Key Drivers/The Look
C o l o u r S t o r y
C o l o u r S t o r y
S_S14/Optivity/Virtual/Colour/ Colour Exploration
Images clockwise from top left: Fifty Fifty Pro-
jects, Eyjafjallajökull; HHD_FUN with Aaajiao – Xu
Wenkai | Embedded Pro-ject; PAOLOERRICO | NOT
JUST A LABEL; Lucas Maas-sen; Alberto Campo Baeza,
casa guerrero.
S_S14/Optivity/Virtual/Colour/ Colour Exploration
Phase Two Virtual: Colour
BASE COLOURS
TREND COLOURSPANTONE 7542C PANTONE 6C PANTONE 657C
PANTONE 374C PANTONE 603C PANTONE 7499C
PANTONE 6486C PANTONE 7543C PANTONE 5493C
Virtual is the technological arm of Optivity, technology is becoming ever integrated into our lives and as learn-ing comes back to us through Gamification and hack-ing. Consumers are wanting to customize and hack into their products in the home, technology at one point used to be wooden, it made the leap to the black and silver age and then eventually we were back to black with the plasma screen. Tomorrow is the age of the spectrum, reflected light, clear and glass effects are the way forwards. Flexi screens and outer casing of tech-nology that can have the opacity changed leads the way for a new dimension with regards to technology.
The change in the way we view technology is what in-fluences the colour palette of Virtual, a spectrum of reflected grey shades and glass like blues hues create an almost crystal like palette. The trend accent colours are the bright neon shades of green blue and dusky low glow neon pink that contrasts with the key colour of the trend, which is white. All of the colours are influenced by interfaces and the glow of the screen that is becom-ing ever more so key to our daily lives.
Colour is particularly important to Virtual, as colour is being taken to a new level and interpreted into differ-ent areas; this is a driver for this trend. What we mean
PANTONE 0331C
PANTONE 704C
Phase Two Virtual: ColourThe change in the way we view technology is what in-fluences the colour palette of Virtual, a spectrum of reflected grey shades and glass like blues hues create an almost crystal like palette. The trend accent colours are the bright neon shades of green blue and dusky low glow neon pink that contrasts with the key colour of the trend, which is white. All of the colours are influenced by interfaces and the glow of the screen that is becom-ing ever more so key to our daily lives.
Colour is particularly important to Virtual, as colour is being taken to a new level and interpreted into differ-ent areas; this is a driver for this trend. What we mean
by taken to another level is that companies are incorpo-rating and examining colour and how they can use this to provide business success. Nike ID recently launched an app that can take a photo of your choice from your Instagram account and then create you a pair of trainers inspired and using the palette from your picture, this is then further customisable. Colour has previously been overlooked but for SS14 it will be a key business oppor-tunity and research about the relationship between the consumer and colour will be integral.
PANTONE 5513C PANTONE 6C
PANTONE 0331C PANTONE 7765C
PANTONE 704C PANTONE 404C
F a b r i c S t o r y
F a b r i c S t o r y
S_S14/Optivity/Virtual/Fabric
S_S14/Optivity/Virtual/Fabric
Fabric
Embellishedprintedsmooth
Images Via petit and Fibres2Fabric
S_S14/Optivity/Virtual/Fabric
S_S14/Optivity/Virtual/Fabric
Fabric
SheerElasticReversable
Images Via Lanzar and Gallus
S_S14/Optivity/Virtual/Fabric
S_S14/Optivity/Virtual/Fabric
Fabric
GridTexturereformedsynthetics
Images Via Moden and Mitsubishi
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Fabric
Plasticsformedneoprenerecycledsmart
Images Via petit and Lia Petit
R a n g e P l a n
R a n g e P l a n
S_S14/Optivity/Virtual/Range Plan
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Boxy panel jersey printed oversized tunic
Sheer shirt with con-trasting sleeves and fly
opening button stand with side slits at side
seams
Maxi two panel lay-ered dress with back
exposed zip and side slits on the side
seams
Panel pencil skirt with applique fan
panels and centre channels
S_S14/Optivity/Virtual/Range Plan
Loose shape tunic with a high neck and deep V
back
Oversized sheer shirt dress with fly opening
and large pockets.
Shirt jumpsuit with mock fly opening on the shirt and side zip fastening on the attached wide
leg trousers.
K e y D r i v e r s
Alexandra SimsThe Look
K e y D r i v e r s
Alexandra SimsThe Look
S_S14/Heat/Blessed/Key Drivers/ The Look
A l e x a n d r a S i m s : E n g i n e e r e d S p e c i e s
S_S14/Heat/Blessed/Key Drivers/ The Look
A l e x a n d r a S i m s : E n g i n e e r e d S p e c i e s
THE LOOK
Alexandra Sims collection combines a bright com-plex palette with intricate prints in a fun and exciting collection. The collection embodies the vivid vibran-cy of the blessed phase and in particular the palette and strength in the styling. The photo-shoot itself we felt signified female ico-nography and the regality and power of the female, a strong theme in the Heat trend.
‘Futuristic florals juxta-posed with geometric prints fuels my signature collec-tion. ‘Engineered Species’ is a six body, high-end, ready-to-wear collection that ex-plores notions of evolution and futuristic plants. My collection exudes an other-worldly aesthetic through the use of digital prints and structured silhouettes. My work investigates the need to adapt plants and animals
to a new planet due to the un-repairable damage of climate change. The research I undertook for my Graduate Collection ex-plores how life itself interferes with its own design, modifying DNA to make various species faster, superior and super strong. ‘Engineered Species’ composes of con-temporary silk and neoprene garments. Illustrations of unusual species of flowers are depicted and manipulated by segmen-tation and rearrangement of each flower. I have taken this approach in order to cre-
S_S14/Heat/Blessed/Key Drivers/ The Look
to a new planet due to the un-repairable damage of climate change. The research I undertook for my Graduate Collection ex-plores how life itself interferes with its own design, modifying DNA to make various species faster, superior and super strong. ‘Engineered Species’ composes of con-temporary silk and neoprene garments. Illustrations of unusual species of flowers are depicted and manipulated by segmen-tation and rearrangement of each flower. I have taken this approach in order to cre-
S_S14/Heat/Blessed/Key Drivers/ The Look
ate a ‘new species’ of plant, which can adapt to a new planet and ecosystem for future generations. My col-lection delves into the unanswered question of evolu-tion process throughout our time, investigating what the future may hold in terms of biological plant mass. The notion of transforming florals into ‘super-be-ings’ advances the typical ‘floral print’, which is sea-sonally seen as a fashion trend. Silhouette, print and colour-ways are key to my collection. The silhouette encompasses a bell-shape outline to depict the bulb of a flower, which is formed by neoprene fabric. Neo-prene, an engineered fabric is a synthetic rubber ma-terial that is flexible, durable and resists breakdown in water. The fabric is micro-perforated, which makes it
S_S14/Heat/Blessed/Key Drivers/ The Look
S_S14/Heat/Blessed/Key Drivers/ The Look
extremely light and increases breathability. This fabric was best suitable for my collection as it is structural in form, and its function replicates that of an “engineered species”. Accentuating the form of the female figure is imperative in relation to my concept, as florals are the representative object of the ‘female body’ in nature’s landscape. Illustrations are digitally printed onto neoprene in order to create an otherworldly experience for the wearer.’ Alexandra Sims
S_S14/Heat/Blessed/Key Drivers/ The Look
S_S14/Heat/Blessed/Key Drivers/ The Look
S_S14/Heat/Blessed/Key Drivers/ The Look
Vibrant, cheeky and youthful… the look of blessed. The Carnival atmosphere leaks into every as-pect of Blessed. The trend itself is based on the social revolution that is going on in Brazil at the moment with the new rising of social positive movements. Brazil is becoming a hub for en-trepreneurship and craft within some of the poorest districts; this is giving way to a creative hub and a new bohemian feel. The look for Brazil is inspired
by creativity in this city, there is a strong connection between blessed and Brazilian street style, the more eclectic with this trend the better. Print clash-ing and layering fun and flirty shapes is key.
Playful shorts and loose tunic and tops are combined with soft dresses and accessories to cre-ate a vibrant stand out look em-bodying the fun-loving culture of Brazil.
S_S14/Heat/Blessed/Key Drivers/ The Look
THE LOOK
All images Via Lookbook.nu
C o l o u r S t o r y
C o l o u r S t o r y
S_S14/Heat/Blessed/Colour/Colour Exploration
S_S14/Heat/Blessed/Colour/Colour Exploration
Phase One Blessed: Colour
BASE COLOURS
PANTONE 7534C PANTONE 7697C PANTONE 7648C
PANTONE 337C PANTONE 603C PANTONE 2985C
PANTONE 4786C PANTONE 7635C PANTONE 0921C
When most people think of Brazil what usually springs to mind?
The vibrancy and electricity that fuels the nation is colour. The lush green of the rainforest to the red and gold’s of the carnival, colour is imperative in this trend. This phase of heat really cranks it up a level when it comes to colour, the trick is for the colour to be an explosion and not blocks of colour.
The palette includes a messy explosion of fuchsia pink, saffron orange, grass green and beautiful skyline blues. Colours are rich and deep with rustic
base notes such as woody brown and stone. The environment visually plays a key role in this phase and the palette explores all of the colours of this naturally blessed nation.
PANTONE 7489C
PANTONE 3945C
Phase One Blessed: Colour
PANTONE 7418C PANTONE 610C
PANTONE 7489C PANTONE 7591C
PANTONE 3945C PANTONE 7746C
F a b r i c S t o r y
F a b r i c S t o r y
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S_S14/Heat/Blessed/Fabric
Fabric
FloralsTropicalDistortedPixelated
All images Via Petit
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Fabric
HeavyPerforatedVoileTexture
All images Via Petit
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Fabric
DistressedEmbellishedStripes
All images Via Petit
R a n g e P l a n
R a n g e P l a n
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Formal Dungarees with elasticated waist and tapered trousers.
Loose fit jersey tunic with V neck and Large open pockets.
Loose fit jersey shift dress with cross over back and zip detail at neck back.
Elasticated waist high leg runner shorts with tie and piping detail
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High waisted, ruched leg tapered trousers in loose silk fabric with small high pockets with
thin waist band
Utility duffle coat with contrasting pockets and hood, scrunched sleeves and elasticated pan-
el around the waist.
Cropped loose fit jersey top with wide sleeves
Ruched elasticated mini skirt
K e y D r i v e r s
Brazil & LuxuryD&GDVFThe Look
K e y D r i v e r s
Brazil & LuxuryD&GDVFThe Look
S_S14/Heat/Luxe-set/Key Drivers/Brazil and luxury
Brazil, a nation with a popula-tion of just under two hundred million is characterized by its rich natural resources and an extraordinary 60% of the Bra-zilian population are under the tender age of 30. A population with such a large percentage of young people is in no doubt a contributing factor with re-gards to our increasing obses-sion with this culturally rich na-tion.
ENOUGH WITH THE FOR-MALITIES
So what do we know?
Brazil is booming…BOOM
BOOM POW
As a result of this the middle classes are increasing and make way for the new emerging afflu-ent of Brazil.
This is increasingly effect-ing the British population…
not spotted the start of it yet?
Brands are businesses, from high street chain stores to high-end beauty lines and where the money is, is where you will find the brands. In order for brands to remain competitive they must cater and adapt them-selves to suit the customer. For many centuries the European
and American markets were the brands target market however over the past 20 years the BRIC economies have given way to a new emerging clientele, enter the emerging affluent of Brazil.
Has your favourite brand re-cently become a little spicier? Perhaps its latest advertise-ment campaign is more colour-ful? Or features an increasing number of models of different ethnicities? Well you my friend are witnessing the adaption of western brands to cater to the emerging affluent.
* Reader Sighs *
Now you see it…
B r a z i l a n d L u x u r y G o H A N d i n h a n d
S_S14/Heat/Luxe-set/Key Drivers/Brazil and luxury
B r a z i l a n d L u x u r y G o H A N d i n h a n d
S_S14/Heat/Luxe-set/Key Drivers/Brazil and luxury
S_S14/Heat/Luxe-set/Key Drivers/Brazil and luxury
The key fact that is interesting us about Brazil at this moment in time is that despite growth falling by 4.1% between 2008 and 2010 to 2.2% between 2011 and 2013 in Brazil, that the un-employment rate has also continued to fall. The dismal present does not seem to be affecting its future outlook with companies continuing to hire. Initially suspecting ‘jiggery pokery’ we dug a little deeper and uncovered why this seems to be the case.
The key drivers of this phenomenon are the changes in demographics. Brazil’s economy on the street level is doing well, the population is becoming increasingly wealthy, with many watching their wages increase by 10% or more and unemployment is at a record low. Now we know this isn’t reflected currently in the stock exchange so how do they do it?
The labour market supply is shifting downwards due to the change in rising premiums for educa-tion in Brazil, thus the demand for labour is rising and has already risen considerably. More of the Brazilian population are staying in education or going back to education, say Forbes. There are less people who are able to work; meaning that more jobs are available to the unemployed. The strong labour market is also in itself pushing people into education, as individuals begin to consider the alternatives to working to enable them to ‘move up the ladder’. The Brazilian In-stitute for Geography and Statistics (IBGE) has collected some astonishing data showing how these shifts have affected the population, with the proportion of those with nine or more years of education compared to those with nine years or less almost doubling in the past decade, from 47.8% in 2004 to 80.8% in 2013. The education premium is clearly keeping the labour supply tight according to Forbes.
The other key driver is the fact that Brazil is more so becoming a larger consumer socie-ty. Opening up more entry level and mid-level
roles in retail service jobs, and the general retail and catering sector. The more they consume the more human resources required to serve this growing society of consumers. It is also im-portant to note that at the top end of the labour market engineers are in demand and are able to acquire a higher pay bracket than ever before.
With unemployment decreasing it is no wonder that Brazil is giving rise to the emerging afflu-ent but more important is the rise in the middle classes in Brazil. The favelas were once notori-ous with crime, poverty and occupants had next to no prospects however with unemployment decreasing, more and more of the population are lifting themselves, so to speak, out of the favelas. Their children are staying in education and for the first time, children of the favelas are securing stable jobs, not only in the labour mar-ket but also more excitingly as professionals.
Ok so more of the Brazilian population are becoming middle class…but what does this mean? And how will it affect consumer trends for Spring 2014?
In Britain we are currently facing the squeezed middle pandemic. The recession has launched businesses into re-organising and practising economies of scale as cost saving measures. The middle managers are all but disappearing from the structures of businesses; the workers on the ground and front line are taking on extra roles. So are the employees at the top in order to cap spiralling payrolls that are killing a com-pany’s ability to operate a financially viable and competitive business model. These cost saving measures result in the workers who were previ-ously in comfortable well-paid middle manage-ment jobs being made redundant, flooding the country with a wave of professionals who are unable to afford their mortgages and lifestyles, having a huge impact on retail as we know it. It is also important to note that with large num-bers of British students graduating every year, the competition for jobs increases year on year
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and with proportionally small amounts of new jobs being created every year, Britain is in crisis.
* Reader sheds a tear *
Hark…all is not lost.
So Britain seems pretty gloomy you’d think for the season of spring summer 2014 however that in fact is not the case. Keep calm and carry on is what sang true in previous times of adversity in Britain and so it will again.
This season we look to Brazil for inspiration and look to use it to our advantage, piggy back-ing on Brazil as it rides the wave of prosperity (Quite a visual). British companies will be look-ing for ways to cash in on the boom in Bra-zil. The world cup in Brazil being Britain’s first chance, businesses will be throwing themselves into the Brazilian spirit putting on a brave face and encouraging and influencing us all to join in the celebratory fun. The British consumer was primed in 2012 by the Olympics and the compa-nies know from that, that the British can party (and indeed spend) like they do in Brazil. So you just try to avoid the Brazilian heat on the British streets for 2014… It will get you.
No profession in the world screams ‘I’m filthy rich’ more so than the world of pro-
fessional football.
As 2014 is the year for football there is no doubt that spotlight once again refocuses on luxury, unashamed luxury that is.
Hotels, planes, cars, labels, holidays… and watches shall we say. You name it, they’ve got it and that’s just the footballers wives and girl-friends. The new and old money will be in Brazil for the world cup in 2014 and the British media will once again be flooded with our old friends
S_S14/Heat/Luxe-set/Key Drivers/Brazil and luxury
Dolce & Gabbana. Luxury my friend is back.
‘Hurrrahhhh!’ Scream the millionaires.
Britain will do its best to ‘fake it till it makes it’ with a potential increase in what the independ-ent describes as ‘affordable designers’ such as Radley, Ted Baker and Paul Smith. Diffusion lines will be in demand and as we’ve already all ‘cashed our gold’ consumers will be looking for that luxury look product.
For what the UK market lack in funds at the pres-ent- they make up for in desire for the product.
Back to Brazil
The emerging middle classes are fuelling glob-al realignment, in which the middle class centre of gravity is moving eastward. As we discussed before designer labels are now catering to a new market and so it is natural that the goods we buy and that are available to the UK are natural-ly going to be catering to this emerging market more so than western market. A shift in what the western consumer is used to. This is no more prevalent than in the luxury sector. However it is important to note one key difference… west-ern and eastern culture are two totally different structures. It can be said that the western cul-ture is one of mass.
We love that we can go to Mc Donald’s in the UK and get the same meal as we can in the Las Ve-gas branch, and though we have toyed with the ideas of moving away from the mass and return-ing to the bespoke its hard for the western world to part with the habit of a lifetime. Literally.
The same cannot be said for the Eastern world; there is no such thing as Chindia, (for those slow witted that’s China and India) China, India, Brazil and Russia are all completely different in culture. There is no common link with regards to their
market tastes apart from the fact that they’re all booming or set to boom. With this in mind, we are seeing an increasing number of companies having to throw away their previous one size fits all policy that they have used for the western market since the beginning of the modern world as we know it. Labels such as Estee Lauder are sinking huge amounts of money into developing products specifically and separately for the In-dian, Brazilian and Chinese market. This in itself is a huge undertaking for the brand but it is es-sential. Brands not willing to adapt to this new market will dry up as there are countless other companies waiting in their shadow to scoop up their business.
The western world will see the influence of the East and Brazil increasing rapidly in our day-to-day lives. Embrace it, as the shadow hiding spaces are getting smaller day-by-day.
Global happenings cannot emphasise enough the importance of Brazil in spring
summer 2014 and beyond and with the world looking to Brazil over 2014 and
then again to 2016. The key thing to take is …
Don’t stand by the side-lines, or be a spectator!
Jump in, immerse yourself in the Brazilian spirit, the rising Brazilian middle class will
effect how and what the UK purchases and wants to purchase so adapt to the Latino vibe and provide your consumer
with affordable luxury.
Don’t be a bore… be Brazilian- and an affluent one at that!
L u x e - J e TSpring_Summer 14
Inspiration
Dolce & Gabbana is at the top of the fashion game alongside the industries notorious big names such as Gucci and Prada.
Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana as a brand took the world by storm in the 1980’s, which is relatively recent for such an acclaimed fashion house. The Milanese duo first met in 1980 whilst working under Giorgio Correggiari and by 1986 debuted their first collection, which was a roaring success. The pair-ing, skills wise, combines the strong technical tailoring background of Dolce and Gabbana’s graphic design skills to create highly successful collections year on year, being one of the most commercially successful high end design-ers brands.
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Women want to be seen in Dolce & Gab-bana, it combines artisanship and an un-derstanding of the female silhouette to create collections with sex appeal whilst empowering females. A tricky balancing act that they complete successfully with al-most every collection. Since the 1980’s the flash and fetishism undertones have made them a hit with the pop princesses such as Kylie Minogue and Beyoncé, they’ve been known to don the clothes both on and off the stage and the boys will always remain their go to designers.
The boys know how to provide flash and drama however the brand has transitioned; one might even say it has grown up, over the past few years. Dolce & Gabbana are now combining sophistication and an im-maculate aesthetic showing off their real
understanding of tailoring. Resulting in the brand creating its own modern heritage for what it may lack over some of the other big name design houses.
Aside from Dolce & Gabbana’s ready-to-wear focus, they are also enterprising and have taken full advantage of their brand name and the luxury price it demands. You name it… they sell it. Womenswear to menswear and juniorwear to fragrances they have extended their brand to cover all markets. The youthful diffusion line D&G has also enabled the brand to become more accessible to a new market and to introduce the youthful generation to their first taste of the boys.
In 2003 the boys ceased their private re-lationship however have continued their strong brand name and are continuously
evolving what we know as Dolce & Gabba-na. The boys are also dabbling in architec-ture and the travel industry to watch this space.
As the boys never disappoint, their latest ready-to-wear collection was no exception. Domenico and Stefano transpired back to native Sicily for inspiration for this collec-tion. The collection had a grown up resort wear feel, with soft casual tailored dress-es, oversized tunics and flowing skirts. The palette was primarily Russian Red embla-zoned with Wheat Gold and Pottery Blue but besides the palette were the incredible use of stripes and how they were used to create a sophisticated and yet casual look. The collection was most definitely grown up with no peepholes, straps and buck-les and the only gimmick was a flour sack dress.
S_S14/Heat/Luxe-Jet/Key Drivers/Dolce & Gabbana S_S14/Heat/Luxe-set/Key Drivers/Dolce & Gabbana
evolving what we know as Dolce & Gabba-na. The boys are also dabbling in architec-ture and the travel industry to watch this space.
As the boys never disappoint, their latest ready-to-wear collection was no exception. Domenico and Stefano transpired back to native Sicily for inspiration for this collec-tion. The collection had a grown up resort wear feel, with soft casual tailored dress-es, oversized tunics and flowing skirts. The palette was primarily Russian Red embla-zoned with Wheat Gold and Pottery Blue but besides the palette were the incredible use of stripes and how they were used to create a sophisticated and yet casual look. The collection was most definitely grown up with no peepholes, straps and buck-les and the only gimmick was a flour sack dress.
S_S14/Heat/Luxe-set/Key Drivers/Dolce & Gabbana
This collection embodies how resort wear can become sophis-ticated and luxurious but still re-main vibrant and fun. As we look to Brazil for 2014 the passion of the nation is in no doubt going to heavily influence fashion how-ever you wont see a pineapple or palm tree print in sight. Dolce & Gabbana SS14 combines the luxury and grown up feel and this will be affecting the collec-tions of SS14, we’ve had years of festival and tribal inspired sum-mer wear however the influence of this collection will be pushing us towards the sophisticated aesthetic for 2014.
Necklines were one of the key elements of this collection; all were moderate however the boys used an array of different ones on jackets, dresses and
blouses. The square neckline was used primarily on dresses with slash necklines that gath-ered at the front for blouses. There were also wide V-necks and crew necks on jackets and tunics. The sleeves were over-sized and wide with large open-ings and often protruded out, this detail stopped the collection from being a total call back to the classic.
The accessories were 1950’s in style with peep toe sling back pumps and raffia wedges, all super commercial styles. Head-scarves and oversized bucket bags finished off the super wear-able looks with large almost dream catcher style earrings.
S_S14/Heat/Luxe-set/Key Drivers/Dolce & Gabbana
S_S14/Heat/Luxe-set/Key Drivers/Dolce & Gabbana
The influence of Dolce and Gabbana will be strong for the Luxe-Jet phase of the heat trend and its driven, not by the colour
palette but in fact by the shapes and de-tails of the collection and the ability to create grown up sophisticated resort wear that still has the feel good appeal but
screams luxury.
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S_S14/Heat/Luxe-set/Key Drivers/Diane von Furstenberg
S_S14/Heat/Luxe-set/Key Drivers/Diane von Furstenberg
L u x e - J e TSpring_Summer 14
Inspiration
Diane Von Furstenburg is one of the design world’s strong-est women, if not the strong-est woman after Coco Chanel. The understanding of the feminine icon she brings to her collections is what makes her an aspirational as well as wearable designer, her collec-tions of recent have showered the audience with optimism and vibrancy with an ease of wear free of constraining de-tails. The modern say super woman’s attire…
“Some fairy tales end with the girl marrying the prince... some start there.” So read the quote at the top of the program notes for Diane von Fursten-berg’s Spring show, which she
S_S14/Heat/Luxe-set/Key Drivers/Diane von Furstenberg
S_S14/Heat/Luxe-set/Key Drivers/Diane von Furstenberg
and her creative director, Yvan Mispelaere, dubbed “Palazzo.” You can see where this is going. The girl in question is none oth-er than von Furstenberg herself. She’s led quite a life. Anytime the design partners don’t chan-nel it on the runway is a missed opportunity, and today it yield-ed a collection that was color-ful, confident, and keyed in to some of this fashion moment’s big trends.
These days, von Furstenberg
sits at the top of a huge business enterprise, but what this outing did was tap into the designer’s peripatetic, bohemian spirit. With their pearl studding and bright color-blocking, board-room suits these were not. And caftans outnumbered the wrap dresses on which she originally built her name. Whether they were day or evening, the dress-es were paired with narrow-ly cut trousers, like the locals in Marrakech and downtown Manhattan wear them.
S_S14/Heat/Luxe-set/Key Drivers/Diane von Furstenberg
As if to remind us that she’s the adventur-ous soul she’s always been, von Fursten-berg has partnered with Google to make a behind-the-scenes film using its new Glass technology. She filmed her experience in the week leading up to the show using the glasses and, like some of her models, wore them down the runway to take her bow. If only Google had been around in von Furstenberg’s early days. Now that’s a video we’d like to see.
S_S14/Heat/Luxe-set/Key Drivers/Diane von Furstenberg
Brazil street style is chic and elegant, with lux-urious fabrics and re-laxed yet formal styling. The Brazilian way of life plays way to the confi-dent woman who isn’t afraid to wear tailoring on a daily basis, sexuality is shown not through hot pants and plunging neck-lines but maybe by a sub-
tle slit on a maxi skirt or a delicately sheer blouse. Elegance being the key, lookbook.nu showcases the best of the laid back confident way in which the luxurious set in Bra-zil dress. These women in Brazil embody the Luxe-Set trend.
THE LOOK
All images Via Lookbook.nu
C o l o u r S t o r y
C o l o u r S t o r y
Phase two Luxe-Set: Colour
BASE COLOURS
PANTONE 7527C PANTONE 7697C PANTONE7448C
PANTONE 697C PANTONE 7585C PANTONE 5185C
PANTONE 5835C PANTONE 4715C PANTONE 4C
“Some people think luxury is the opposite of pov-erty. It is not. It is the opposite of vulgarity.” Coco Chanel
The Luxe-Set of Brazil are the new business wom-en who have overcame adversity and are now the new in demand customer. Luxury takes a turn for the indulgent in the Luxe-set colour palette; time waits for woman of the world.
The base colours are deep and rich with passionate aubergines and champagne hues complimented by crystal like jades. The metallic stone shades look
almost like liquid gold with the sheen and adds the element of luxury. The Trend colour’s are still deep and luxurious but combine a vivid echo and spice of Brazil. Warmth is added to the palette with rich burgundies and rustic orange shades that when combined create a rich and yet nods to the natural. No space for tack in this palette.
PANTONE 7463C
PANTONE 5773C
Phase two Luxe-Set: Colour
PANTONE 564C PANTONE 4745C
PANTONE 7463C PANTONE 7591C
PANTONE 5773C PANTONE7544C
F a b r i c S t o r y
F a b r i c S t o r y
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Images from top left clockwise: Lan-zar;; Gallus; Moden; peiti;petit;-
petit
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BurnoutLaser CutDigitalMirrored
Images from top left clockwise: Ish-tar; Romo; Moden; peiti;petit;Tula
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GeometricTribalReflected
Images from top left clockwise: All images from Mazara
R a n g e P l a n
R a n g e P l a n
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Large lapel boyfriend blazer
Loose fit camisole with spaghetti straps
Panel bodycon dress with sheer shoulder and back panel.
Loose fit elasticated waist jumpsuit, with keyhole back opening and spaghettui
straps.
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Elasticated waist maxi skirt with wrap over gathered detail.
Crossover ruched at shoulder dress with exposed zip down the centre back
Elasticated waist loose fit joggers with ex-posed contrast side panel crossover.
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