IBAN natural dyes & weaving industry

22
IBAN, natural dyes and weaving industry Sarawak, Malaysia Good practice report, November 2015

Transcript of IBAN natural dyes & weaving industry

Page 1: IBAN natural dyes & weaving industry

IBAN, natural dyes and weaving industrySarawak, MalaysiaGood practice report, November 2015

Page 2: IBAN natural dyes & weaving industry

http://www.gbumalaysia.com.my/about.html

Page 3: IBAN natural dyes & weaving industry

0.1) MALAYSIA’S ECONOMIC AND SOCIAL SITUATION

Population� 5

0.1.1) Malaysia´s economic situation� 5Economic Policies� 5Main Malaysian activity sectors and resources� 6Inflation and consumer price index� 7

0.1.2) Malaysia´s social situation� 7Poverty reduction� 7Education� 7Labor force and income inequality� 8Unemployment and minimum wage� 9Social Security� 9Environment� 9

0.2) SOCIAL AND SOLIDARITY ECONOMY IN MALAYSIA

0.2.1) Definition� 10

0.2.2) SSE Malaysian main structures� 11Co-operatives� 11Social enterprises� 12Civil society organisations running economic activities� 12Mutual Benefit Societies� 12

0.3) PUBLIC/LEGISLATIVE INITIATIVES

0.3.1) Policies� 12

0.3.2) Funding� 13

0.3.3) Training� 13

1) DESCRIPTION OF THE SSE GOOD PRACTICE

1.1) Name Organization and/or network responsible for the practice, location, sector.� 14

1.2) Proposed activities � 14

1.3) Management model and stakeholders involvement� 15

1.4) Turnover and job creation/quality� 15

1.5) Social and ecological externalities� 15

1.6) Communication and advocacy � 16

1.7) Networking, affiliations and openness of the Good practice to the existing networks � 16

2) EVALUATION OF THE GOOD PRACTICE

2.1) The good practice’s economic and social impact and potential� 16

2.2) The transformative impact on the territory and beyond� 17

2.3) Policy impact of the Good practice� 18

2.4) Sustainability of the practise� 18

2.5) Participatory space open to the territory� 20

3) WHAT CAN WE LEARN FROM THE DESCRIBED GOOD PRACTICE

4) INDIVIDUAL STORY

Table of contents

Page 4: IBAN natural dyes & weaving industry
Page 5: IBAN natural dyes & weaving industry

[�5�]

0.1) MALAYSIA’S ECONOMIC AND SOCIAL SITUATION

Malaysia�is�a�country�in�Southeast�Asia,�south�of�Thailand�and�north�of�Singapore.�It�has�13�states�and�3�federal�ter-ritories�spread�across�Peninsular�Malaysia�and�East�Malaysia.�Its�capital�is�Kuala�Lumpur,�with�the�administrative�centre�located�in�Putrajaya.�It�is�a�federal�constitutional�monarchy,�with�the�Head�of�the�Federation�being�the�Yang�di-Pertuan�Agong�(or�King)�who�is�elected�by�the�Council�of�Rulers�every�five�years.�The�system�of�government�is�based�on�the�Westminster�parliamentary�system,�inherited�from�the�British�colonial�rule.�The�Parliament�consists�of�the�Yang�di-Pertuan�Agong,�the�House�of�Representatives�(Dewan�Rakyat)�and�the�Senate�(Dewan�Negara)�1.�

PopulationMalaysia�has�a�population�of�approximately�30�million�people�2�on�a�landmass�of��329,847�square�kilometers,�with�a�density�of�91�people�per�kilometer�3.�The�country�is�multicultural�and�is�composed�of�diverse�ethnic�groups,�the�main�ones�being�Malays�(50.6%),�Chinese�(21.9%),�Indians�(6.6%),�indigenous�people�(12.0%),�and�others�(8.6%)�4.�A�multitude�of�religions�are�practised,�with�the�national�religion�being�Islam.�Non-Malays�are�free�to�adopt�any�religion,�therefore�there�are�large�communities�of�Buddhists,�Christians,�Hindus,�Sikhs,�Taoism�etc.�in�the�country.�As�of�2013,�it�has�a�total�fertility�rate�(per�1,000�woman�aged�15-49�years)�of�2.0,�and�life�expectancy�at�birth�of�72,6�years�for�males�and�77,2�years�for�females�5.�

0.1.1) Malaysia´s economic situation

Malaysia�was�affected�by�the�Global�Financial�Crisis�in�2009�but�recovered�rapidly,�posting�growth�rates�averag-ing�5.7�percent�since�2010�6.�

Malaysia�is�the�3rd�largest�economy�(GDP�of�327�Millions�USD,�13%�of�the�total�ASEAN�GDP)�(Asean: Association of Southeast Asian Nations)�in�Southeast�Asia,�and�is�the�third�richest�country�after�Singapore�and�Brunei�(GDP�par�inhabitant�:�11062�USD)�in�Asia�7.�According�to�the�Global�Competitiveness�Index,�Malaysia�is�ranked�the�18th�most�competitive�country�in�the�world�on�the�2015-2016�Global�Competitiveness�report.��According�to�2015�report�“Doing�Business�2015�“data�for�Malaysia�by�the�World�Bank,�Malaysia�ranks�18th�in�the�world�in�the�“Ease�of�doing�business�index”�out�of�189�countries.�Getting�credit�(23rd�rank),�protecting�minority�investors�(5th�rank)�and�doing�trade�across�borders�(11th�rank)�are�its�main�strengths�8.�

Economic PoliciesMalaysia’s�developmental�plans�are�closely�linked�with�its�economic�policies.�In�terms�of�overarching�develop-mental�policies,�the�first�was�the�New�Economic�Policy�(NEP)�for�the�period�of�1971-1990,�to�accomplish�the�dual�purposes�of�eradicating�poverty�and�eliminating�income�disparity�identified�by�race.�In�the�most�part,�the�affir-mative�action�outlined�in�the�NEP�on�ensuring�the�bumiputeras’�(including�Malays�and�other�indigenous�groups)�participation�in�the�economy�was�present�in�all�national�policies�beyond�the�NEP,�i.e.�the�National�Development�

1.  Malaysia 2014 Official Year Book, published by the Department of Information Malaysia, accessed at http://www.penerangan.gov.my/index.php/en/publications/ebook/doc_download/485-malaysia-2014 2.  Index Mundi 20143.  2014, http://www.diplomatie.gouv.fr/fr/dossiers-pays/malaisie/presentation-de-la-malaisie/ 4.  Malaysia 2014 Official Year Book, published by the Department of Information Malaysia, accessed at http://www.penerangan.gov.my/index.php/en/publications/ebook/doc_download/485-malaysia-2014 5.  Social Statistics Bulletin Malaysia (2014), published by the Department of Statistics in December 20146.  http://www.worldbank.org/en/country/malaysia/overview7.  https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Malaysia 8.  http://www.doingbusiness.org/data/exploreeconomies/malaysia/#getting-credit 

Page 6: IBAN natural dyes & weaving industry

• R H S F •

[�6�]

Policy�(NDP,�from�1991-2000),�National�Vision�Policy�(NVP,�from�2001-2010),�and�New�Economic�Model�(NEM,�from�2011�to�present).�The�current�overarching�policy,�the�New�Economic�Model�outlines�Malaysia’s�aspirations�of�being�an�advanced�developed�nation�by�2020,�in�balancing�high�income�for�the�country,�inclusive�growth,�and�environ-mental�sustainability.�

In�parallel�with�the�developmental�policies�are�five-yearly�Malaysia�Plans�on�economic�planning,�with�the�First�Malaysia�Plan�launched�in�1966,�As�of�2015,�the�Eleventh�Malaysia�Plan�has�been�rolled�out,�as�the�last�leg�towards�Vision�2020.�

“Best scenario“ simulation of estimated time required to become high-income countries for middle-income countries in Emerging Asia

Main Malaysian activity sectors and resourcesThe�principal�Malaysian�activity�sectors�that�contribute�to�the�GDP�are:• Services:�56%• Industry:�34,7%• Mining�activities:�8%• Agriculture:�9,3%�9�

It�is�also�a�worldwide�leader�in�producing�electronic�goods,�in�particular�semiconductor�components.�It�is�also�the�first�Southeast�Asian�country�to�conceive�and�produce�a�car�“Proton”,�which�is�exported�all�around�the�world.

The�main�resources�in�the�country�are:�gold,�petrol�and�gas,�tin,�iron,�agriculture�and�sylviculture,�forest,�rubber�(3rd�rank�in�the�world)�and�palm�oil�(1st�rank�in�the�world).Malaysian�economy�is�strongly�integrated�in�international�business,�which�has�caused�a�degradation�of�its�foreign�trade�balance.�Even�if�the�current�balance�remains�positive,�it�went�down�from�+17%�of�GDP�in�2008�to�+5,9%�of�GDP�in�2014�10.Nevertheless,�exports�of�electronics,�oil�and�gas,�palm�oil�and�rubber�represent�a�key�driver�of�the�economy.

9.  http://www.worldbank.org/en/country/malaysia/overview10.  2014, http://www.diplomatie.gouv.fr/fr/dossiers-pays/malaisie/presentation-de-la-malaisie/

Page 7: IBAN natural dyes & weaving industry

— IBAN NATURAL DYES AND WEAVING INDUSTRY, MALAYSIA —

[�7�]

Inflation and consumer price indexInflation�rate�is�3,1%�ranking�Malaysia�at�the�136th�place�worldwide.�Approximately�30%�of�the�goods�are�price�controlled�11.Consumer�Price�index�for�Malaysia�has�increased�by�2,6%�in�a�twelve�month�period�from�September�2014�to�September�2015�12.

0.1.2) Malaysia´s social situation

Poverty reductionEconomic�growth�in�Malaysia�led�to�a�rapid�reduction�in�poverty.�The�share�of�households�below�the�national�poverty�line�defines�this�poverty�rate.�The�share�of�households�living�below�the�national�poverty�line�(USD�8.50�–�7,4�euros�per�day�in�2012)�fell�from�over�50�percent�in�the�1960s�to�less�than�1.0�percent�currently�13.�Malaysia’s�progress�on�poverty�reduction�is�the�most�successful�among�ASEAN�countries�14.�In�the�Eleventh�Malaysia�Plan,�it�was�revealed�that�poverty�will�now�be�viewed�with�a�Multidimentional�Poverty�Index�to�ensure�that�other�factors�such�as�quality�of�life�is�measured�in�addition�to�income.

EducationThe�educational�pathway�for�the�regular�student�in�Malaysia�comprises�of�pre-school�(0-6�years�old),�primary�education�(7-12),�lower�secondary�(13-15),�and�upper�secondary�(16-17).�Public�schools�are�free�and�are�multilingual,�offering�at�least�Malay�and�English,�with�some�schools�at�the�primary�level�offering�choices�of�Mandarin�Chinese�or�Tamil�as�the�medium�of�instruction.�Non-citizens�must�pay�extra�fees�in�order�to�send�their�children�to�school.�Children�of�immigrant�or�asylum-seeking�parents�can’t�be�registered�as�Malaysian�authorities�forbid�it�15.�Beyond�secondary�school,�students�can�go�for�a�post-secondary�matriculation�that�lasts�1�to�2�years,�to�access�tertiary�education�in�institutions�such�as�community�colleges,�polytechnics�and�universities.

11.  https://www.cia.gov12. https://www.statistics.gov.my/index.php?r=column/cthemeByCat&cat=106&bul_id=L0FuTGpIOENZTU5VcG9wUEVqUzAxdz09&menu_id=bThzTHQxN1ZqMVF6a2I4RkZoNDFkQT09)13.  http://www.worldbank.org/en/country/malaysia/overview14.  http://etp.pemandu.gov.my/ 15.  http://www.humanium.org/fr/malaisie/ 

Page 8: IBAN natural dyes & weaving industry

• R H S F •

[�8�]

The�literacy�rate�in�2015�is�94,6%�16,�with�the�net�enrolment�ratio�of�primary�level�at�96,6%�and�secondary�level�at�91,1%�17�in�2013.�Access�to�education�is�widespread�but�there�is�a�disparity�between�urban�and�rural�education�with�the�urban�areas�performing�better�at�literacy�rates,�enrolment�rates,�dropout�rates,�and�quality�of�education�in�general.�There�is�no�gender�disparity�in�enrolment,�and�girls�tend�to�stay�longer�within�the�education�system�and�therefore�there�are�more�females�at�higher�levels�of�education�18.�

It�was�recognised�in�the�National�Education�Blueprint�(2013-2025)�that�Malaysia�has�performed�poorly�in�inter-national�educational�benchmarks�such�as�TIMSS�and�PISA�in�recent�years,�and�the�performance�of�its�students�does�not�reflect�the�amount�of�national�budget�spent�on�education.�The�Blueprint�therefore�lays�out�the�short,�mid�and�long�term�plans�to�improve�the�education�system.�

Labor force and income inequalityThe�labour�force�represents�14.01�million�in�2014�19�.��Women�in�Malaysia�make�up�only�36.3%�of�the�labour�force�in�2011,�which�is�very�low�compared�to�most�developed�economies,�despite�the�fact�that�tertiary�education�is�com-posed�of�more�females�than�males.�It�is�reported�within�a�study�by�the�Ministry�of�Women,�Family�and�Community�Development�and�UNDP�that�women�drop�out�of�the�workforce�at�childbearing�age�20.�Income�disparities�remain�relatively�strong.�In�2013,�men�were�earning�4,5%�more�than�women�on�the�average�wage�21.�Malaysia’s�GINI�coef-ficient�of�income�inequality�was�0.41�in�2014�-�0�is�perfect�equality�and�1�is�total�inequality�22.

Malaysia has highest Gini coefficient in Asia

Bloomberg, World Bank

16.  https://www.cia.gov17.  Department of Statistics Malaysia (2014) Social Statistics Bulletin Malaysia18.  UNESCO (2013) Malaysia Education Policy Review Abridged Report, accessed at http://unesdoc.unesco.org/images/0022/002211/221132e.pdf on Nov 2, 201519.  https://www.cia.gov 20.  MWFCD and UNDP(2013) Study to support the development of national policies and programmes to increase and retain the participa-tion of women in the Malaysian labour force: Key findings and recommendations 21.  ILO - http://www.ilo.org/wcmsp5/groups/public/---asia/---ro-bangkok/---sro-bangkok/documents/publication/wcms_325219.pdf 22.  http://data.worldbank.org/indicator/SI.POV.GINI 

Page 9: IBAN natural dyes & weaving industry

— IBAN NATURAL DYES AND WEAVING INDUSTRY, MALAYSIA —

[�9�]

Unemployment and minimum wageIn�Malaysia,�unemployment�rate�is�quite�low:�3,2%�in�July�2015�23.�Malaysia�has�passed�the�National�Wages�Consultative�Council�Bill�in�2011�that�sets�the�establishment�of�a�Council�to�recommend�minimum�wages�per�sector�and�region.�This�minimum�wage�has�been�put�in�place�in�2013�in�order�to�more�closely�align�wages�and�productivity.�The�minimum�wages�policy�raised�the�basic�wages�of�all�employees�to�a�minimum�of�RM900�(€189)�in�Peninsular�Malaysia�and�RM800�(€168�in�Sabah,�Sarawak�and�Labuan).�This�was�increased�to�RM1000�(€213)�and�RM920�(€196)�respectively�in�the�Budget�2016�presented�in�October�2015.�At�the�time�of�writing,�the�govern-ment�will�soon�decide�on�whether�to�pass�the�Employment�Insurance�Scheme,�to�provide�temporary�financial�assistance�and�skills�training�to�retrenched�employees�24.

Social SecurityThe�World�Social�Protection�Report�(2014/2015)�published�by�ILO�states�that�Malaysia�provides�a�“very�limited�scope�of�legal�coverage”�in�its�national�social�security�system,�with�only�four�main�policy�areas�(old�age,�employment�injury,�invalidity,�survivors)�out�of�eight�that�are�covered�by�at�least�one�programme�in�national�legislation.�The�other�four�policy�areas�not�covered�adequately�are�cash�benefits�for�sickness,�maternity,�and�unemployment,�as�well�as�family�allowances�25.

Social�security�in�Malaysia�is�geared�towards�generating�full�employment,�and�is�economically�or�productivity�driven.�Therefore,�active�labour�market�policies�are�abundant,�in�providing�skills�training�and�entrepreneurship�opportunities,�while�social�insurance�and�social�assistance�are�not�as�elaborate.�Main�social�insurance�schemes�include�the�Employee�Provident�Fund�(EPF),�civil�service�pension,�the�Armed�Forces�Fund�(LTAT),�Employment�Injury�Insurance,�Invalid�Pension�Scheme,�and�the�Employer’s�Liability�Scheme.�Financial�assistance�is�provided�as�social�welfare�to�the�marginalised�and�destitute;�however�the�government�sees�welfare�as�“productive”�and�“non-pro-ductive”,�and�tries�to�channel�the�recipients�of�productive�age�and�ability�into�the�workforce�after�providing�tem-porary�financial�assistance.�Public�healthcare�is�free,�and�subsidies�have�been�given�for�basic�necessities�such�as�fuel,�water�and�electricity,�though�rationalisation�of�subsidies�is�increasing�in�the�recent�years.�

EnvironmentMalaysia’s�Environmental�Protection�Index�(EPI)�has�positively�increased�by�2,51%�the�last�ten�years�and�is�ranked�51�out�of�178�countries�in�2014�(rank�1�being�the�best�and�178�the�worst)�26.�

Despite�this�good�environmental�record,�improvements�still�need�to�be�implemented.�Malaysia�is�still�facing�some�big�environmental�issues�including�but�not�limited�to�deforestation,�soil�and�water�pollution,�erosion,�and�overfishing.�Malaysia�used�to�be�one�of�the�least�polluted�countries�in�Asia�but�with�the�important�industrial�development�and�increase�in�urbanization,�pollution�has�started�to�become�a�big�issue.

Deforestation�in�Malaysia�is�severe�compared�to�other�nations�(see�table�below).�Between�2000�and�2012,�the�country�lost�14,4%�of�its�forest�cover,�damaging�a�complete�ecosystem,�threatening�flora�and�fauna�and�popula-tions�27�(Hansen�et�al�2013).

23.  https://www.statistics.gov.my  24.  http://www.themalaysianinsider.com/malaysia/article/decision-on-employment-insurance-scheme-to-be-announced-soon-says-ministry 25.  ILO (2014), World Social Protection Report (2014/2015)26.  http://epi.yale.edu/epi/country-profile/malaysia27.  Global forest change – published by Hansen, Porapov, Moore, Hancher & Al, 2013

Page 10: IBAN natural dyes & weaving industry

• R H S F •

[�10�]

Major forest countries: Highest percentage forest loss, 2000-2012

http://news.mongabay.com/2013/11/malaysia-has-the-worlds-highest-deforestation-rate-reveals-google-forest-

map/ 0.2) SOCIAL AND SOLIDARITY ECONOMY IN MALAYSIA

The�SSE�movement�in�Malaysia�is�not�very�well�documented.�Research�efforts�are�commonly�piecemeal�and�sec-toral�rather�than�providing�an�overarching�perspective�linking�different�types�of�SSE�sectors�together.�

According�to�Tan�(forthcoming),�there�are�four�main�types�of�SSE�sectors�in�Malaysia,�including�co-operatives,�so-cial�enterprises,�mutual�benefit�societies,�and�civil�society�organisations�that�run�economic�activities�to�sustain�themselves.�The�pool�of�actors�from�these�sectors�do�not�usually�see�themselves�as�part�of�a�larger�SSE�movement,�and�the�Malaysian�government�provides�support�to�some�segments�(such�as�the�co-operative�and�social�enterprise�sectors)�with�emphasis�on�income�generation�and�entrepreneurship,�rather�than�community�empowerment�or�other�aspects�of�social�development�beyond�economic�growth.�

0.2.1) Definition

In�Malaysia�the�terms�of�community-based�social�enterprises,�or�community�economy,�are�preferred.�There�is�no�official�definition�of�SSE�in�the�context�of�the�country.�However,�discussions�with�SSE�actors�in�Malaysia�have�re-vealed�that�one�of�the�definitions�used�is�the�one�by�the�UN�Task�Force�on�SSE,�as�such:

“the production of goods and services by a broad range of organisations and enterprises that have explicit social and of-ten environmental objectives, and are guided by principles and practices of cooperation, solidarity, ethics and democratic self-management. The field of SSE includes co-operatives and other forms of social enterprise [known in Malaysia as SSE

Page 11: IBAN natural dyes & weaving industry

— IBAN NATURAL DYES AND WEAVING INDUSTRY, MALAYSIA —

[�11�]

organisations, as the term social enterprise is more commonly used in Malaysia to refer to social businesses], self-help groups, community-based organisations, associations of informal economy workers, service-provisioning NGOs, solidarity finance schemes, amongst others.” (TFSSE, 2014, p.iv)

0.2.2) SSE Malaysian main structures

SSE�in�Malaysia�is�composed�of�four�main�elements:�co-operatives,�social�enterprises,�mutual�benefit�societies�and�civil�society�organisations�that�run�economic�activities.�

Co-operativesIn�Malaysia,�co-operatives�were�introduced�even�before�Independence�by�the�British,�to�solve�problems�met�by�rural�farmers�who�were�oppressed�by�middlemen�(doc:�National�cooperatives�policy�2011-2020).�In�2013,�there�were�10,914�co-operatives�in�Malaysia�and�about�7,6�millions�people�who�were�members�of�co-operatives�28.�The�table�below�gives�more�information�about�total�shares,�total�assets�and�turnover�figures�of�co-operatives�in�Malaysia�by�sector.�

N° Sector Total Co-ops Individual Members

Total Shares(RM mil)

Total Assets(RM mil)

Turnover(RM mil)

1 Banking 2 1,009,647 3,349.46 84,060.02 6,263.80

2 Credit/Finance 589 1,653,139 5,342.69 10,820.40 1,853.52

3 Agriculture 2,318 542,130 516.94 2,143.41 799.61

- School 6 433 0.02 0.05 0.02

4 Housing 180 170,846 206.46 982.31 304.3

5 Industrial 225 18,399 10.03 76.75 40.39

6 Consumer 2,393 591,790 288.08 1,260.33 846.23

- School 2,280 2,177,096 22.54 271.34 312.96

7 Construction 173 506,314 43.9 360.12 83.86

8 Transportation 447 148,874 64.59 299.58 661.69

9 Services 2,301 790,536 2,967.23 7,624.58 21,806.04

Total 10,914 7,609,204 12,811.94 107,898.88 32,972.43

Statistics of the co-operatives in Malaysia by sector (Malaysia Co-operative Societies’ Commission, 2013)

Within�the�Malaysian�SSE,�the�co-operative�sector�is�the�most�supported�by�the�government,�as�evident�in�the�ex-istence�of�the�National�Co-operative�Policy�(2011-2020),�and�the�Co-operative�College�of�Malaysia�(Maktab�Koperasi�Malaysia,�or�MKM),�an�institution�under�the�Ministry�of�Domestic�Trade,�Co-operatives�and�Consumerism�that�provides�capacity�building�on�co-operative�activities.

Social enterprisesThe�social�enterprise�scene�is�nascent,�with�the�first�social�enterprises�in�Malaysia�emerging�in�the�2000’s.�The�

28.  Note that one person can hold more than one membership

Page 12: IBAN natural dyes & weaving industry

• R H S F •

[�12�]

recently�released�Malaysian�Social�Enterprise�Blueprint�(2015-2018)�explains�that�social�enterprises�are�entities�that�“balance�both�impact�and�business�in�order�to�solve�a�legitimate�social�or�environmental�issue�through�its�offer-ings,�which�are�driven�by�market�needs”,�and�“operates�by�being�inclusive�and�transparent�in�its�activities,�while�being�fully�accountable�to�its�shareholders�and�beneficiaries”.�At�the�moment�there�are�around�100�social�enter-prises�in�Malaysia,�and�the�Prime�Minister�through�the�Blueprint�hopes�to�increase�this�number�to�1000�by�2018.�

Civil society organisations running economic activitiesCivil�society�organisations�(CSOs)�are�composed�of�non�profit�and�non-governmental�organizations�with�groups�of�citizens�working�together�towards�common�goals�such�as�self-help�or�issue�advocacy.�Despite�restrictive�conditions�in�Malaysia,�a�dynamic�civil�society�has�developed�to�advance�democratic�governance�and�practices�in�Malaysia,�as�well�as�to�provide�social�services.�In�the�SSE�context,�all�CSOs�engaged�in�economic�activities�are�considered,�whether�advocacy-based�or�service�oriented.�A�major�recurring�problem�among�CSOs,�especially�the�ones�who�deal�with�advocacy,�is�financial�sustainability�29.�Malaysian�law�stipulates�that�societies�should�not�be�formed�for�the�sole�purpose�of�carrying�out�business�activities,�but�business�activites�are�allowed.�Income�generating�activities�include,�for�example,�accepting�membership�subscription�fees,�providing�counselling�or�training�services,�setting�up�libraries�or�resource�centres,�and�other�fund-raising�activities�like�sale�of�donated�of�goods,�paid�events,�etc.�

Mutual Benefit SocietiesA�mutual�benefit�society�is�a�society�that�allows�voluntary�subscriptions�to�pool�resources�as�a�form�of�social�security�for�its�members�in�the�event�of�sickness,�death,�or�other�unforeseen�circumstances.�There�are�about�3,800�entries�in�the�Registrar�of�Societies’�database�that�fall�within�the�category�of�“Mutual�Benefit/Death�Welfare�Fund”.�Not�much�has�been�written�on�this�SSE�sector�and�thus�more�research�is�needed�in�the�area.��

0.3) PUBLIC/LEGISLATIVE INITIATIVES

0.3.1) Policies

There�is�no�dedicated�law�to�SSE�in�Malaysia.��Nevertheless�legal�structures�exist�for�the�different�types�within�the�SSE:�Cooperatives�are�for�example�submitted�to�The�Co-operatives�Societies�Enactment�passed�by�the�Federal�Legislative�Council�in�1922,�modeled�after�India’s�Cooperative�Societies�Act�of�1912.�The�National�Cooperative�Policy�(NCP)�2002-2010�was�also�introduced.�In�Malaysia�mutual�benefit�societies,�community-based�organizations�and�advocacy-based�organizations�all�fall�under�the�Societies�Act�(1966).�Some�advocacy�CSOs�are�registered�under�the�Companies�Act�(1965)�to�avoid�the�difficulty�in�getting�legal�recognition�under�the�Societies�Act.��In�Malaysia,�there�is�no�specific�legal�structure�for�social�enterprises.�Social�enterprises�can�utilise�other�legal�vehicles�such�as�private�limited�companies,�enterprises,�and�associations.�

0.3.2) Funding

Government�funding�is�available�for�the�SSE,�especially�in�the�areas�of�co-operatives�and�social�enterprises.�For�example,�the�Malaysia�Co-operative�Societies�Commission�offers�the�Co-operative�Development�Grant�Scheme�to�provide�financial�aid�facilities�for�co-operatives.�The�emerging�field�of�social�enterprises�has�also�received�an�allocation�of�RM20�millions�from�the�Malaysian�government�to�grow�the�sector�by�increasing�the�number�of�social�

29.  An ASEAN community for all : exploring the scope for civil society engagement, Friedrich-Ebert-Stiftung, Office for regional cooperation in Asia, November 2011

Page 13: IBAN natural dyes & weaving industry

— IBAN NATURAL DYES AND WEAVING INDUSTRY, MALAYSIA —

[�13�]

enterprises�to�1,000�by�2018�30.�Other�agencies�involved�in�providing�funds�to�social�entrepreneurs�for�startups�or�expansion�include�MARA,�Tekun,�Amanah�Ikhtiar�Malaysia,�SME�Bank,�and�so�on�31.�The�private�sector�has�also�participated�in�providing�startup�funding�or�incubation�for�new�social�enterprises.�

0.3.3) Training

Capacity�building�has�been�provided�to�the�co-operative�sector�by�the�Co-operative�College�of�Malaysia�(MKM),�which�is�the�only�co-operative�training�centre�in�the�country,�established�since�1956.�It�has�branches�across�East�and�West�Malaysia,�and�offers�a�wide�selection�of�courses�and�research�publications.�At�an�international�level,�MKM�conducts�certificate�courses�on�co-operative�management�and�co-operative�poverty�reduction�as�part�of�the�Malaysian�Technical�Cooperation�Programme�(MTCP)�to�share�Malaysia’s�developmental�experience�with�oth-er�developing�countries�via�South-South�Cooperation�32.�The�Malaysian�Global�Innovation�and�Creativity�Centre�(MaGIC),�the�agency�mandated�to�carry�out�the�Social�Enterprise�Blueprint,�also�has�programmes�and�workshops�to�cultivate�social�entrepreurship.�

Other�efforts�in�SSE�training�include�the�Social�Enterprise�for�Economic�Development�(SEED)�program�held�by�Universiti�Malaysia�Kelantan,�since�2010.�It�is�a�community-based,�intercultural�leadership�and�enterprise�devel-opment�program�which�exposes�students�from�different�universities�in�Europe�and�Asia�to�the�unique�contexts�of�villages�where�the�poor�community�resides�33.�Other�universities�which�have�supported�the�SSE�agenda�include�the�Sunway�Institute�for�Social�Entrepreneurship�and�Binary�University�of�Management�and�Entrepreneurship.�

30.  http://asiafoundation.org/in-asia/2015/08/26/challenges-in-the-malaysian-social-enterprise-scene/ 31.  Fostering an ASEAN community, Denison Jayasooria, Benjamin Quinones, Jr. &Saifuddin Abdullah, 201532.  http://www.mkm.edu.my33.  Village Transformation and poverty eradication through social enterprise for economic development program (SEED) by Wee Yu Ghee and Farok Bin Zacharia(SEED) http://umkeprints.umk.edu.my/922/1/Paper%209.pdf

Page 14: IBAN natural dyes & weaving industry

• R H S F •

[�14�]

IBAN, natural dyes and weaving industry

1) DESCRIPTION OF THE SSE GOOD PRACTICE

1.1) Name Organization and/or network responsible for the practice, location, sector.

IBAN,�natural�dyes�and�weaving�industry�is�a�SSE�project�based�on�community�engagement�which�is�located�in�Rumah�Gare,�Nanga�Kain,�Sarawak�in�Malaysia.This�academic�research�is�conducted�by�an�applied�anthropologist�at�the�University�of�Malaya,�Dr�Welyne�Jeffrey�Jehom.�This�research�started�in�2013�and�is�running�until�2016�under�the�High�Impact�Research�Grant�from�University�of�Malaya.

The�Ibans�are�a�branch�of�the�Dayak�peoples�of�Borneo.�In�Malaysia,�most�Ibans�are�located�in�Sarawak,�a�small�portion�in�Sabah�and�some�in�west�Malaysia.

Rh.Gareh�is�a�trademark�that�represents�indigenous�knowledge�of�the�Iban�community�women�weavers�in�Rumah�Gare.�This�trademark�was�created�with�the�intent�of�maintaining�traditional�intellectual�property�rights�of�the�productions�of�the�pua�kumbu,�the�Iban�traditional�textile.�This�initiative�was�created�by�Dr�Welyne�Jeffrey�Jehom.�

1.2) Proposed activities

Pua’�means�‘blanket’�and�‘kumbu’�means�‘to�cover’�thus�it�is�a�ceremonial�blanket.�A�woman�weaver�is�capable�of�designing�and�weave�a�meaningful�pua�kumbu�through�her�own�ingenuity�plus�able�to�perform�a�ritual�of�mixing�mordant�bath,�known�as�indu’�takar,�indu,�ngar.�She�is�recognised�as�a�mystic�woman�as�it�is�believed�that�her�knowledge�of�mixing�the�mordant�is�based�on�her�mystical�relations�with�an�ancestral�weaver.The�woman�weaver�receives�an�instruction�in�her�dreams�and�the�performance�of�ngar�is�to�fulfil�that�dream.�The�pua�kumbu�she�would�weave�based�on�this�dream�is�her�very�own�individual�intellectual�property�rights�34.�

The�Iban�weaver’s�practice�the�tie�and�dye�resist�technique.�The�process�is�quite�long�and�as�Welyne�Jeffrey�Jehom�mentioned�“For�a�piece�of�8x2�feet,�the�full�process�can�take�between�1�month�and�a�half�to�2�months”.���

The�first�stage�to�the�weaving�activities�starts�with�the�yarn�preparation�that�includes�at�least�4�different�levels:�winding�the�yarn�into�thread�balls,�stretching�and�pulling�a�skein�of�thread�horizontally,�followed�by�selection�of�alternate�warp�before�the�yarn�is�sorted�out�to�be�ready�for�the�tying�stage�of�the�desired�designs.�Once�the�warp�design�is�ready,�the�first�dye�is�prepared.�The�yarn�then�soaked�into�the�dye�which�is�sourced�from�natural�ingredi-ents�from�plants.�The�yarn�then�dried�before�the�second�stage�of�warp�tying�is�continued�to�keep�the�color�desired�before�the�second�process�of�dying�and�this�process�repeatedly�done�until�the�desired�tone�of�colors�achieved.�The�last�stage�is�weaving,�whereby�the�raphia�on�the�warp�is�removed�before�the�dyed�design�ready�warp�is�lay�out�on�the�back�strap�loom�for�weaving.

34.  http://rhgareh.com/the-place-life/story-of-weavers/ 

Page 15: IBAN natural dyes & weaving industry

— IBAN NATURAL DYES AND WEAVING INDUSTRY, MALAYSIA —

[�15�]

1.3) Management model and stakeholders involvement

The�purpose�of�this�trademark�is�to�carry�a�fair�share�structure�to�assist�Iban�women�weavers.�The�operational�costs�and�raw�materials�for�the�pua�productions�are�funded�by�a�pool�of�capital�via�a�“self-help�organization”�in�which�capital�to�start�the�marketing�and�selling�operations�was�conceived�through�the�contri-butions�of�the�weavers�and�the�researcher�who�are�involved�in�this�project.�The�researcher�contributed�a�sum�of�cash�to�buy�yarn�for�the�weavers�to�start�their�first�project�because�yarn�comes�in�bundles�of�50�kg�that�cost�above�RM10,000�(€2,053).�Fair�share�in�the�context�of�this�business�structure�is�an�alternative�approach�to�conventional�trade�and�fair�trade,�which�is�based�on�a�partnership�within�the�supply�chain�that�includes�the�raw�material�supplier,�weavers�and�the�researcher�as�distributor�and�marker�planner.�The�researcher�role�is�really�crucial�in�the�supply�chain�because�weavers�have�very�minimal�education,�networking�and�understanding�of�accessing�wider�marketing�platform.�Through�research�and�networking,�the�researcher�constructed�an�ecosystem�to�enhance�the�weavers’�productions,�refine�the�quality�and�utilization�of�pua�kumbu�as�raw�material�via�feedback�and�market�demands.This�project�is�to�give�the�weavers�an�opportunity�to�be�independent�and�able�to�access�the�market,�not�just�on�a�fair�share�term�but�also�not�to�be�manipulated�by�middle�parties.

1.4) Turnover and job creation/quality

This�organization�includes�35�active�weavers�of�which�one�woman�is�blind�and�a�man�but�in�total�they�are�49,�the�others�are�only�participating.��They�produce�natural�dyed�ikat�known�as�pua,�woven�on�back�strap�loom,�all�done�manually.They�are�not�hired�but�work�independently�and�are�free�to�come�and�go.�Decisions�within�the�community�are�taken�collectively�based�on�focus�group�discussion�weighing�every�possibility�especially�to�determine�prices,�val-ue�and�volume.Non-skill�weavers�are�apprentices�and�are�taught�by�an�experienced�master�weaver�35.The�turnover�is�less�than�€35,000.�Weavers�fix�the�price�of�the�product�and�100%�of�that�price�comes�back�to�them.Each�piece�is�unique�and�value�based�on�the�designs,�weaver’s�skill,�type�of�yarn�and�sizes.�But�the�most�important�asset�of�“pua”�is�the�story�and�folklore�that�come�with�each�piece.

1.5) Social and ecological externalities

The�weavers’�activities�are�limited�to�the�place�where�they�live�(they�harvest�their�own�vegetables,�they�hunt,�they�use�ingredients�from�the�forest�for�the�dye…).�Daily�activities�are�done�in�the�longhouse�36�where�they�weave�in�a�common�gallery.�Each�of�the�weavers�owns�an�individual�space�in�the�longhouse.All�of�these�factors�limit�the�externalities�to�its�minimum.�

35.  A master weaver is a very important person in the community. She is the one who knows perfectly how to mix the ingredients for the dye, who is respected by the community and who is able to tell if the design has not be done correctly… She is a charismatic leader.36.  A longhouse is a house within the house divided in different sections : an outside gallery,  a first entrance leading to an inside gallery shared by everybody ,  a second entrance to an individual apartment with living room and upstairs bedroom, an outside communal area and then a 3rd entrance with kitchen, toilets and shower. Outside there is an individual patio.

Page 16: IBAN natural dyes & weaving industry

• R H S F •

[�16�]

1.6) Communication and advocacy

The�advocacy�role�of�Dr�Welyne�Jeffrey�Jehom�is�to�promote�the�intangible�cultural�heritage�and�to�create�a�source�of�income�for�the�women�weavers�to�uplift�their�livelihood.��With�public�education�via�exhibitions,�pua�kumbu�can�be�known�as�a�piece�of�art�and�wearable�textile,�different�from�other�textiles�that�of�Bali�and�Sumba.�In�this�case,�public�will�buy�without�any�hesitant�on�the�price�and�women�weavers�can�have�the�real�fair-share�of�price.

Communication�is�also�important:�• Facebook�account:�https://www.facebook.com/rhgareh?fref=ts��(followed�by�348�people)• Website:�http://rhgareh.com�• Exhibition�in�University�of�Malaya�from�15/06/15�to�17/07/15�at�University�of�Malaya,�Kuala�Lumpur�(launch�in�presence�of�the�minister�of�tourism�in�Malaysia)�–�video:�https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4ArdhmC34qU&feature=youtu.be��This�exhibition�attracted�2000�people�in�3�weeks.• Exhibition�at�the�Malaysia�International�Agrotourism�Exhibition�from�the�26th�to�the�29th�of�November�2015,�where�they�will�expose�the�products�and�where�many�countries,�investors�and�designers�will�be�represented.• TV:�https://youtu.be/JAKZj4J6HrM • Video:�https://www.facebook.com/rhgareh/videos/vb.736715303035026/902338219806066/?type=2&theater�

1.7) Networking, affiliations and openness of the Good practice to the existing networks

This�project�is�an�independent�group�that�is�not�linking�or�affiliating�with�any�other�networks�or�institutions.�Still�it�has�connection�with�University�of�Malaya�in�Kuala�Lumpur�with�the�High�Impact�Research.�The�Tun��Jugah�Foundation�(Textile�Museum�and�Gallery�which�promotes�the�traditional�methods�of�Iban�weaving,�for�the�benefit�of�the�community�and�the�general�public)�also�supports�and�encourages�the�project.�As�highlighted�by�Janet�Rata�Noel,�Museum�curator:�“We�are�happy�about�Dr�Welyne’s�work�to�sustain�the�Iban�knowledge.�We�are�supporting�her�and�she�is�supporting�us”.

2) EVALUATION OF THE GOOD PRACTICE

2.1) The good practice’s economic and social impact and potential

▶ EconomicalThe�aim�is�to�address�a�fair�share�price�to�the�women�weavers�without�having�to�deal�with�loans�and�micro-credits�for�their�products,�so�as�to�reduce�poverty,�provide�a�platform�and�awareness�amongst�the�weavers�of�the�ethical�treatment�they�should�get.�The�women�have�become�more�independent�and�now�know�the�value�of�their�hard�work,�knowledge�and�skill.�Weavers�volunteer�to�join�the�weaving�group�to�earn�income�and�they�come�and�go.�Most�of�these�weavers�are�single�mothers,�widows�or�divorced.�Through�this�project�they�have�managed�to�earn�at�least�once�a�month�between�MYR�800�(€178)�and�MYR�1500�(€335),�according�to�Dr�Welyne�Jeffrey�Jehom.�With�that�extra�money,�some�of�them�can�now�send�their�children�to�school�for�example.�Bangie�ak�Embol,�the�master�weaver,�says:�“Income�is�mostly�coming�from�pua�kumbu�weaving�and�helps�to�build�new�houses�perform�renovation.�Pua�kumbu�weaving�is�much�easier�to�work�compared�to�planting�pepper�or�cocoa,�we�used�to�plant�cabbages,�but�we�did�not�have�much�income�from�the�vegetables.�We�feel�we�should�con-tinue�that�way�because�it�brings�more�benefit”.This�project�enables�the�empowerment�of�these�women�and�they�can�earn�a�fair�and�proper�income�in�order�to�

Page 17: IBAN natural dyes & weaving industry

— IBAN NATURAL DYES AND WEAVING INDUSTRY, MALAYSIA —

[�17�]

uplift�their�livelihood.�It�also�encourages�the�illiterate,�old�and�poor�women�living�at�the�rural�villagers�to�be�cre-ative�and�thinking�far�into�turning�their�passion�of�weaving�pua�kumbu�into�a�cottage�industry.

Within�this�project,�women�weavers�are�also�connected�to�a�direct�market�platform�whereby�their�pua�kumbu�can�be�browsed�on�rhgareh.com�and�made�to�order.�Pua�kumbu�is�valued�very�highly�in�overseas�markets�but�not�well�known�as�a�high�price�item�locally�because�there�is�an�influx�of�chemical�dyed�textiles�coming�from�Bali�and�Sumba�selling�at�souvenir�shops�in�major�towns�in�Sarawak�and�Malaysia.�Lack�of�knowledge�on�pua�kumbu,�public�tends�to�buy�the�“fake”�pua�kumbu�with�very�low�prices.

▶ SocialIn�2�years’�time,�the�numbers�of�weavers�have�increased�from�7�to�35�active�weavers.�Even�the�men�encourage�the�women�to�weave,�before�this�project,�it�was�not�the�case.�

This�structure�that�has�been�installed�for�pua�kumbu�productions�has�drawn�many�women�weavers�to�work�togeth-er�and�create�a�stronger�community�by�reinforcing�communication�and�solidarity.�According�to�Dr�Welyne�Jeffrey�Jehom,�“relationships�have�improved�between�the�weavers,�not�just�in�the�longhouse�but�between�longhouses”.�It�used�to�have�2�groups�in�the�longhouse,�one�group�which�was�following�the�master�weaver�and�another�one�working�with�another�institution.�They�are�now�working�all�together,�helping�each�other’s.�This�project�managed�to�bring�them�as�a�team�and�community�based.�They�also�started�to�receive�few�other�weavers�from�other�long-houses�to�learn�with�them.��It�is�also�a�good�network�to�establish�connections�among�the�weavers�in�the�state.

2.2) The transformative impact on the territory and beyond

▶ EnvironnementalThere�is�no�harm�to�the�environment.�All�the�ingredients�used�for�the�production�of�these�textiles�are�natural.�The�dyes�are�based�on�vegetables�and�are�sourced�in�the�forest,�chemicals�are�not�part�of�the�production�of�pua�kumbu�textiles.�They�domesticate�some�plants�like�for�example�the�indigo�color”�marsdenia�tinctoria”�and�the�red-brick�color�“mo-rinda�citrifolia”.�They�can’t�domesticate�the�yellow�color�“fibraurea�tinctoria”.�Dr�Welyne�Jeffrey�Jehom�is�actually�trying�to�get�a�biologist�to�identify�how�they�can�domesticate�this�yellow�plant�color�which�they�found�on�a�tree.�But�as�the�dyes�come�from�the�forest,�they�are�also�dealing�with�issues�of�deforestation,�that’s�why�weavers�and�their�family�are�encouraged�to�domesticate�all�sources�of�natural�dye�by�planting�them�around�the�village.�All�the�products�are�stored�at�the�weaver’s�house�before�distribution.�They�don’t�have�any�waste�from�the�natural�dye�because�it�is�all.�There�is�no�water�waste�either.�They�use�the�water�from�the�mountain�which�is�chlorinated.�Dr�Welyne�Jeffrey�Jehom�thinks�this�process�is�successful�because�of�the�use�of�this�pure�water.

▶ SocietalTraditional�indigenous�knowledge�is�restored�and�conserve�for�the�use�of�uplifting�community�lives�and�at�the�same�time,�knowledge�can�pass�down�to�generations�as�well�as�for�academic�purposes.�Communities�become�independent�despite�being�illiterate�and�unable�to�access�projects�and�programs�organized�by�the�state.�This�project�also�helps�to�get�documentation�on�the�indigenous�knowledge.�One�of�the�first�work�of�Dr�Welyne�Jeffrey�Jehom�was�to�collect�designs�from�each�families�(they�were�never�given�opportunity�to�weave�their�own�design)�and�collect�old�stories�and�folklores�from�memories.�She�collected�75�different�designs�which�were�never�weaved�for�the�past�30-40�years.�Through�that�project�and�the�design�collection�with�the�community,�she�suc-ceeded�in�making�them�meet�their�cousins�who�move�to�other�longhouses�in�order�to�retrieve�family�designs.��So�the�weavers�can�now�see�the�value�of�keeping�the�tradition�alive.

Page 18: IBAN natural dyes & weaving industry

• R H S F •

[�18�]

2.3) Policy impact of the Good practice

Pua�kumbu�textile�is�a�material�culture�and�the�weaving�activities�and�natural�dye�processes�are�a�cultural�her-itage.�The�continuation�of�this�project�can�impact�policies�on�tourism�at�the�Ministry�of�Tourism�promoting�in-digenous�knowledge�and�practices�as�tourist�attractions�to�the�region.�There�is�an�attempt�from�the�craft�council�to�encourage�craft�productions�for�the�tourists�who�come�over�the�country.�According�to�Dr�Welyne�Jeffrey�Jehom,�“converting�indigenous�knowledge�as�a�tool�of�development�can�be�inter-esting�for�the�Ministry�of�Finance�and�Ministry�of�Rural�Development�to�accelerate�development�program�from�within�and�not�imposing�outside�ideas�for�community�development.”Gare�ak�Timbang,�local�authority�as�community�leader�thinks�that�this�project�can�inspire�some�policies�as�it�is�progressing�very�well�on�the�pua�kumbu�weaving�and�the�government�is�willing�to�help�in�terms�of�subsidy�and�grant�to�continue�this�activity.

2.4) Sustainability of the practice

This�experience�could�be�maintained�in�the�long�term�with�continuous�communication�and�perseverance�ensur-ing�the�continuity�and�better�understanding�of�networking.�

The�challenge�is�to�make�this�textile�marketable.�And�it�also�needs�to�involve�younger�generation�by�learning�weav-ing�process.�The�generation�of�continuous�income�is�a�good�way�to�motivate�youngers�into�it.��Inggie�ak�Langkong,�29�years�old�man�weaver�explains:�“The�motivation�comes�from�the�earning�of�pua�kumbu�sales,�and�this�works�is�easier�than�other�jobs�at�the�longhouse.”�For�him,�the�only�way�to�sustain�the�project�is�“to�teach�the�younger�ones�at�the�longhouse,�like�my�niece,�Bintang.�I�taught�her�how�to�weave�since�she�was�young.�“

A�continuous�flow�of�income�needs�also�to�be�secured�and�in�that�sense,�people�need�to�be�trained�as�Dr�Welyne�Jeffrey�Jehom�won’t�be�always�there�to�support�the�project.��She�is�actually�training�2�young�women�(with�a�lot�of�knowledge�of�the�pua�kumbu�and�who�work�at�school)�and�is�trying�to�engage�them�in�the�marketing�of�the�pua�kumbu�and�to�make�them�understand�the�structure�for�the�customers.�

According�to�the�local�authority,�Gare�ak�Timbang,�the�government�should�open�a�workshop�at�the�longhouse,�so�the�children�who�come�back�from�boarding�school,�especially�during�school�holidays,�could�learn�how�to�weave�instead�of�doing�something�else.

In�terms�of�the�structure,�Dr�Welyne�Jeffrey�Jehom�first�thought�about�creating�a�cooperative�but�was�faced�to�the�fact�that�nobody�would�like�to�take�the�responsibility�for�leading�the�project.�She�sees�the�project�evolving�into�a�social�enterprise�and�tries�to�get�outsiders�who�are�familiar�with�social�en-terprise�to�get�into�it.�She�applied�to�another�grant�through�University�of�Malaya�which�is�a�knowledge�transfer�program�and�will�bring�a�few�people�to�teach�the�potential�individuals�from�the�community�of�the�weavers�to�handle�the�business.One�of�the�customer,�Marie-Christine�Tseng,�thinks�that�to�make�this�project�sustainable�a�marketing�education,�entrepreneurship�needs�to�be�done�and�this�can’t�be�done�quickly.�

This�project�could�be�duplicated�to�other�longhouses�in�Malaysia�and�also�in�neighboring�country�such�as�Indonesia.�It�could�be�duplicated�to�other�craft�projects�like�making�basket�which�only�uses�natural�products.�One�thing�which�is�important�to�take�into�account�is�the�fact�that�understanding�their�language�and�culture�is�the�essence�for�this�kind�of�research.

Page 19: IBAN natural dyes & weaving industry

— IBAN NATURAL DYES AND WEAVING INDUSTRY, MALAYSIA —

[�19�]

Diagram 1 : Empowerment strategies for developping weaving as a sustainable cottage industry

University of Malaya – Dr Welyne Jeffrey Jehom

Diagram 2 : Important aspects involved preserving, sustaining and developing pua�kumbu�and traditional weaving

University of Malaya – Dr Welyne Jeffrey Jehom

Page 20: IBAN natural dyes & weaving industry

• R H S F •

[�20�]

2.5) Participatory space open to the territory

There�are�been�ongoing�visits�by�the�other�weavers�from�other�weavers�from�other�villages�to�learn�more�about�weaving,�designs,�folklores�and�process�of�natural�dyes�at�Rumah�Gare�longhouse.Weaving�tools�have�also�been�improvised�for�better�and�smooth�weaving�process�and�taught�to�other�weavers�in�the�region.A�better�marketing�and�networking�for�selling�pua�kumbu�textiles�on�wider�platform�have�also�been�shared�with�other�weavers�in�the�region.

3) WHAT CAN WE LEARN FROM THE DESCRIBED GOOD PRACTICE

This�project�combines�a�lot�of�positive�aspects:• Empowerment�of�women�of�the�Iban�Rumah�Gare�community�by�a�continuous�flow�of�income�and�fair�price�of�the�pua�kumbu�through�the�sale�of�the�textiles.• Some�young�people�are�now�interested�to�learn�weaving�as�they�can�see�this�art�generates�an�income.�Actually�there�are�2�young�people�weaving,�one�man�who�is�29�years�and�one�girl�who�is�15.• The�number�of�weavers�have�increased�from�7�at�the�beginning�of�the�project�to�35�active�weavers�today�(2�years’�time)�demonstrating�a�real�interest�and�motivation�into�this�activity.• The�relationship�between�the�weavers�has�improved�and�they�have�understood�they�need�to�work�together.�Even�relationships�between�longhouses�have�improved�and�evolved�as�some�weavers�from�other�longhouses�would�like�to�join�the�project.• Each�piece�of�pua�kumbu�is�unique�and�in�order�to�market�these�products,�a�complete�package�identity�has�been�created�(name�of�the�weaver,�story�of�the�design,�source�of�color…).• As�one�piece�of�pua�kumbu�is�quite�expensive,�in�order�to�interest�people�to�buy�it,�Dr�Welyne�Jeffrey�Jehom�has�opened�the�products�to�a�bigger�range�of�products�(such�as�tie,�bags,�jackets,�shoes…).�• A�real�work�on�documentation�and�transmission�of�indigenous�knwoledge�has�been�conducted�by�Dr�Welyne�Jeffrey�Jehom�demonstrating�the�importance�of�collecting�designs�issued�of�family�stories�in�order�to�keep�alive�the�pua�kumbu�weaving.�These�designs�are�now�weaved�again.• Trademark�RumahGare�has�been�put�in�place�by�Dr�Welyne�Jeffrey�Jehom.�This�trademark�is�now�legal�and�allows�maintaining�traditional�intellectual�property�rights�of�the�productions�of�the�Pua�Kumbu,�the�Iban�traditional�textile.�Nobody�can�take�advantage�of�their�products�anymore.

In�order�to�make�this�project�successful,�Dr�Welyne�Jeffrey�Jehom�has�mentioned�3�main�key�factors�of�success:“Passionate: This project is very difficult because of the geographical location, access to basic facilities such as electricity and transportation is not easy. If I wouldn’t have the passion to work with the weavers as I understood their living condi-tion and facing poverty, and limited access to facilities, this project would not be continued as it is at present day.Patience: The weavers have many different groups and there are conflicts between them. Without any patience and at-tempts to make them understand that they need to work together, there would be no weavers today. This project started with 7 weavers in 2013 and there are now 35 active weavers.Perseverance: If I was not persistent in pushing the project forward by convincing the weavers that it would work and continue to make them receive the cash they earn from their hard work, there would be no continuation of this project.”

Page 21: IBAN natural dyes & weaving industry

— IBAN NATURAL DYES AND WEAVING INDUSTRY, MALAYSIA —

[�21�]

Key�factors�of�failure�could�be�represented�by�the�fact�that�women�weavers�are�people�who�are�not�exposed�to�wider�mainstream�society�and�that�their�knowledge�about�social,�economics�and�politics�are�very�limited.�Dr�Welyne�Jeffrey�Jehom�had�to�be�very�sensitive�towards�their�request�and�needs�by�putting�herself�at�their�level�or�even�lower�so�she�could�understand�the�problem.

Still�a�lot�of�work�needs�to�be�done�in�order�to�make�it�sustainable�such�as�training�people�from�the�community�on�the�marketing�aspect�in�order�to�replace�Dr�Welyne�Jeffrey�Jehom.�They�need�to�become�independent�in�order�for�them�to�secure�a�continuous�flow�of�income.�Younger�generation�still�also�need�to�be�more�and�more�involved�in�order�to�keep�the�pua�kumbu�weaving�tradition�alive.�

4) INDIVIDUAL STORY

“Once�upon�a�time�about�a�year�ago,�I�went�to�a�lecture�by�Dr�Welyne�Jeffrey�Jehom�on�the�pua�kumbu�of�Sarawak,�hand-woven�warp�ikat�textiles�of�the�Iban�tribe.��She�is�now�conducting�a�research�on�the�economics�of�pua�and�the�women�of�the�pua.The�lecture�was�fascinating,�Welyne�has�worked�with�this�group�for�many�years�learning�the�‘stories’�of�their�tex-tiles.�Many�are�from�dreams�or�from�traditional�tales,�part�of�the�collective�memory�of�the�community.

Welyne�is�campaigning�to�protect�and�ensure�the�sustainability�of�this�community,�urging�the�establishment�to�preserve�the�environment,�so�important�to�their�way�of�life�with�the�vegetation�being�essential�for�the�natural�dyes�of�the�textiles.�She�is�working�too�to�ensure�the�weavers�get�a�fair�wage�for�their�wonderful�work,�with�many�pieces�taking�a�year�to�complete.

I�just�love�this�style�of�textile,�it�has�geometric�patterns,�the�colours�are�muted�and�the�motifs�are�angular�and�interesting.�So�when�we�were�offered�some�pieces�for�sale�at�the�end�of�the�lecture,�I�found�a�new�friend,�a�beau-tiful�piece�with�a�crocodile�motif�on�it.�The�style�here�is�to�wear�these�textiles�as�a�shoulder�cloth.

So�when�Rob�and�I�went�to�Sarawak�recently�to�celebrate�the�Gawai�festival�(another�wonderful�story,�for�next�time)�I�wore�my�textile�when�we�dressed�for�the�celebratory�party,�only�to�discover�that�our�hosts�were�Kayan�and�my�piece�was�made�by�the�Iban�tribe!�Apparently�the�Kayan�mainly�make�beaded�craft�-�not�a�woven�textile�in�sight.

Last�Saturday�when�I�went�with�a�few�friends�to�the�opening�of�an�exhibition�on�Pua�Kumbu,�I�wore�my�crocodile�shoulder�cloth.�It�was�a�lovely�occasion,�many�textile�experts�and�the�odd�gov.�minister�were�present�with�many�people�wearing�interesting�textiles.�A�great�celebration�of�Welyne’s�work�in�collaboration�with�the�University�of�Malaya�-�a�truly�world�class�exhibition.”

By�Margo�Rosenberg

Page 22: IBAN natural dyes & weaving industry

This report has been produced with the assistance of the European Union.

The contents of this publication are the sole responsibility of RHSF and can in no way be taken

to reflect the views of the European Union.

?