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PRINCE EDWARD AND Pl-UNCE GEORGE OF WALES GOING DOWN A :MINE IN .AUSTRALIA.

Engraved by J . D. COOPER f •·om a Pllo to{l>"07>11.

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\!be JEnglisb Jllustrateb f1Daga3ine.

li1ARCH, 1885.

H.M.S. BACCI-IANTE AT THE ANTIPODES.

BY PRINCE EDWARD AND PRINCE GEORGE OF WALES.

[THE following extracts from the diary of Prince Edward and Prince George of \Vales, which we are enabled to place before our readers, have reference to their stay i.n West and South Australia. The forthcoming volume from which they are taken contains a.n account of subsequent visits to Victoria, New South Wales, and Queensland, and we have therefore taken the opportunity of supplementing the text with illustrations of those places.-Edito1· English Illustrated .Magazine. J

'- Sunday, M(Jflj 1st.- Squally in the morning watch; the wind is nearly right aft, but it little, if anything, on the port quarter. We have got the topmast stunsail et, and are going about nine and a half knots. Church on the main deck,

And o the cbys pass with not much vari ety ; morning school goes on like clock­w01·k, whether the weather be windy or rainy, calm or 1·ough: and long ago one has learnt to adapt one's self to this. In the

~~~io~~lyin°~~~ f=~~·;;,~·~·· ~~·~"··~~~"~.·~~·~ .. ·~~~~~'¥· ··~~~-~··~~~ ... ~.~~ ... ~.·~~~~~ .. ~· ::~~ fLfternoon wind \t:t,~':.~~~'2 ~~~·'"' I •" j c.t...~" ""' )l·a~ tl· ·~~:~'•"'' ' 9'( .J .. ,-'" n~·~j·•• 'vent down, and ..:- 11 • • ~ "'''' 4 ~-'"':.~6

d ~ t:--,. 171 !J -.'2'2t--... ....... '2.5 20.,..~ ~ 20 ".!:» I MAY 5J G o'\.9- \ut_·.:~~:! it rained hard, ,; '" ,6 7 , ·~r 2a""-o4-<::..L-2' •• tz..tso ,. •~ 0

/13 but it was a lovely night and a new moon; bad a good look at Magellan­

Crozot Is . ~· r;,\..-arot T • \' ~,;•, . l'<'u t .. loto

)J,.rlun I. "\'~'''"''

1

·~·· \U' !,(\' f,(l' llfl" \In '"

ic clotids. ~M ay 2nd. - .A.

fine day, but very

CHART OF H.M .S. ccBACCHANTE" FROM CAPE COLONY TO ALBA~-v.

squally, close hau­led on the starboard tfLck, wind from the south, and the sea getting up. Took up our station at 10 A.M . and immediately after· wards chased to windward, which the Bc~c­chante is not much of a hand at. Resumed our stations at 3 l'.M. It had been very cold, though deliciously clear and sunny all day ; now the clouds are flying up overhead from the south pole, borne along by the upper current of air rushing up across the lower stratum of air of the westerlies to form the "trades."

No. 18

afternoon, after French study, >ve went on reading about the exploration of Australia and its various colonies ; though at present we don't expect to. ee more than two of them .. -Victoria and New South Wales. In the evening, when we are not on watch, we get many opportunities on a long sea crui e for reading.

May llth.-Fresh breeze from the north­west, veering to south-west. At noon to-day we have made the best run hitherto (220

c c 2

388 H.M.S. BACCHAN'l'E AT THE ANTIPODES.

miles in 24 hours) with double-reefed topsail ·, fore ail, and single r eefed mainsail; t he deck ve1-y dry, though a sea m· two looked in over the gangway now and then. Cm-rey passed provisionally for acting ..;ub-lieutenant to-day; it is his nineteenth birthday. At 4 P.~r. admiral made signal, "Take up appointed station; ships in column to keep open order," and t his was repeated to the Bacchante at 9 P.l!. The signal was also made that "pro­bably an opportunity of sending mail· to Engla.nd by t he Cleopat?·a would occur when weather modm·ated." \V e suppose, therefore, that the admiral intends to send her into Albnny. with them.

~lfay 12th.-Blowing very hard all night; at 5.1 5 A. or. a sea struck and filled the port cutter in a heavy roll, and she was washed <~IYa,y . Force of the wind ten, and heavier in

THE BACCIT.\.NTE 1:-l' A GALE.

the squalls ; heavy seas running, and as many came in over the nettings, there wa::; nearly a foot or more of water sometimes on the deck. About noon, after they bad been topping up the starbo,nd cutter, a very heavy r oll carried away both davits, and caused her to fall in again:t the mizen rigging, where she was lashed for the present.

At da.wn the flagship was thr ee miles ahead of the other ships of the squad1·on, and was gradually increasing her distance, although · her treble-reefed topsail were on the cap, -and she was t hus canying the very minimum of s~il possible. Vi7 e were under clouble-r eefed fore and main topsails, foresail and r eefed mainsail. W e split one mainsail and shifted it. At 9 A . M. the "general recall" was hoisted, but it was impossible to overtake t he flagship, ;md at 3.30 P.M. we lost sight of he1· altogether.

The Tow·rnaline was sailing abeam of us all clay. The Cleopatm . and the CaryifO?·t have drawn somewhat ahead, though they also have kept pretty close up to now. At 9 P.M. we set the mainsail r eefed, in addition to the clouble-reefed fore and main topsails, close reefed mizen topsail, andreefed foresail. At 10.30 P .)L the fore topmast staysail split, and ten minutes afterwards t he ship broached to. Hauled up the lee clew of the mainsail, and braced forward the head yaJ:ds, then furled the main ail as soon as possible, close­reefed the fore and main topsails, furled the mizen topsail, hauled out t he head of the fore trysail.

It was now one of the most magnificent sights we ever gazed on, though we never wish to be in similar circumstances, or to see quite the like again. The moon above was

breaking in full glory every few minutes through the densest and blackest storm­clouds, which ·were here and there riven by the blast ; the sea beneath was literally one mass of white foam boiling and his­sing beneath the gale . .For a few seconds, when the B ctcchante first broached to, it was doubtful what would happen, but the old ship came to the wind and lay to of her own ac­cord. Having gone into the cabin under the poop just before

she broached to, experienced a curious sen­sation of grinding beneath the screw-well and counter and by the rudder chains. It might be compared to the somewhat similar sensation felt when a boat's bottom touches rock or sand and grinds over them, and bumps for a few seconds. We knew, of course, it could not be thus with us, but suspected it was caused by the vn·ench the rudder then suffer ed. Owing to the strain there bad been on the upper cleek wheel (which had clming the clay several t imes nearly taken charge, in spite of the lozen men that manned it), the main deck steer­ing gear had also been connected that evening, and was being used at the t ime of the accident, in addition to the upper deck gear.

As the ship refused to pay off, there was

H.M.S. BACOHAN'l'E .AT THE ANTIPODES.

nothing for it hut to let her remain as she was lying-to. It was then conjectured that something had happened to the rudder, as with the helm put hard a starboard no appre­ciable difference was observed. It was not, however, till the next morning that we realised our position of being pract.ica.lly rudderless on the open sea. The order to get up steam was given soon afte1· 11 P .M., and three hours afterwards steam was ready; but the screw could not be lower ed or connected till the morning of the 13th, owing to the ship knocking about so much. At 5 A.M., when the screw was worked twenty to twenty­five revolutions, the ship would not go off the wind or answer her helm. Then we began to suspect what had taken place. There was nothing to be done but still to continue to lie-to under close r eefed fore and main top­sails, fore ail, and fore staysail, her head being south-east and by south. Rhe lay-to veq well. The gale continued, and there was of course still a very heavy sea, but she proved herself a good

under this new proces, -roughly 8°. (The greate ·t amount of helm that could be got when all right was only 32°.) She took half an hour to turn eight points. The sun 'ms shining brightly, nnd the ~;ea still showed more foam thnn blue, and was very high, coming over all along the nettings. ~he was anxiou ·ly watched, and fo1· a minute seemed to be paying off, though Yery loath to leaYe het· old position ; and again went back to it, then rose slowly and gntcefully to the next surge of the sea, paying off this time a little more than before, and o again a.nd again the same wa repeated rhythmically, and almost as if the hip was a sentient being. and was doing all this in a dignified mam1e1· without hurry and precipitation, amid the whistling of the wind in the blocks and rigging, and th ontinuous swish and moaning onset of the waves. '\Ve mnde a large circl thus, and at 4 r.•r. her head was round, though ·till up in the wind on the other tack, and now pointing north

BROKE~ RUDDJ.::R HEAD.

sea boat, and shipped comparativ ly but lit­tle water. The lower deck was, however, all afloat through the seas washing up through the scnppm·s, and they had one or two clown the hatches into the ward-room, but nothing to speak of. Few ,·hips would have ridden out the gale so easily and well as did the Bacchante, lying-to quite natu­rally. At 7 A . ~r., as

Fron• a Plwtool'aph taken at .dlbany.

the cunent was drifting us helplesHly further ·outh and further away horn Australi<t, we

fm·led sails and again tried to got her of£ the wind, but with no effect whatever. By this time, it being daylight, it was discovered by looking over the stern, as the ship pitched, that the rudder was amitlships, whilst the tiller in the captain's cabin wa ha1·d a star· boat·d. This showed us that the rudder head had been twisted about 22°, which of course accounted for her not paying off. But by altering the chains of the tiller in the cap­tain's cabin it was hoped that we should manage to get a small h lm sufficient to turn her round and keep her on a course.

Accordingly, after dinner, another effort was made, and at 2 P .lii. set fore trysail and increased steam power to forty revolutions, and put the helm over as far as it would go

for Australia instead of dt·ifting south io the pole.

After evening quarters, at which every one e mecl a,s happy as could be, we pointed yat·ds to the wind <tncl sten.med :1.heacl, m:1king up for King G org ' · Sound, tru ting to the wind to keep her steacly on her course, and giving her as few :pokes of the helm as possible. The next moming the wind h·•d somewhat fallen, though it was still blowing eight, and the sea was going down a well, though occnsionally we shipped ono over the weathe1· netting. 'Ve m·e getting out of the roaring fm·tie , and are gradually drawing to the north of the gale :ts we n ar the land.

In the evening ·et fore and aft su,ils, and increased th& number of revolutions, o that on Sunday morning (15th) we are going over nine knots; it i: raining hard, and much

390 H .JVf.l:3. BAGGHANTE AT THE ANTIPODES.

warmer than it ha.s been btely, thermometer 63°, whereas fo1· the last few days it has been 4 7°. The wind is still falling, though the swell is heavy. At 9 A.;l! . sighted Mount Gm·dner·, a pe::t,k in We. tern A ustralia, and afterwards Bald Head, at the entrance of King Ge01·ge's Sound, and Breaksea I sland. ff::t,d a short service on the main deck at 10.30 A.M., the men in their clamp working dress. At l P.M. we passed under the west side of Breakse::t, Island, with a lighthouse on top of its r ed 1·ocky, precipitous sides, weather-worn from the westerlies that have beaten on it for ages. The only way of landing is by means of a rope ladder on the east or lee . ·ide. Bald Head, on our port hand, seems covered with scrub, with here and there great patches of sand. After pa ·sing these two the beautiful sound opens out beyond. '\V e steamed right on and up to the entrance of Prince ·s Royal Harbom·, away inside which we can ::;ee the' houses of Albany in the distance. Here we anchored a.t 3 P.M. for the night. 'rhe scene of om· mishap was in latitude 4,0° S., longitude 120° E ., and 360 miles south of King Geor·ge's Sound. We have every r ea ·on to be most thankful that the occunence wa. no worse, and terminate l n.s it did. Had Sunday after­noon prayers at 4 P.i\l.

1l1ay 17th.- The Rosette~, P. & 0 . mail steamer, alTived from Adelaide en route to Suez, aml so will t;tke om· homeward mails tbi::; monung. She reports lmviug had Yel'Y bad weather the whole way across the Bight. In the ~tfternoon w went with Mr. Loftie and Dr. Rogers, <'tnd thr e ward-1·oom officers, across to the opposite side of Princfls · Royal !-Ictl·bom· to the quarantine station to shoot quail. The low hills cover ed with da1·k trees sloping down to the white sandy beach, with the blue .water as calm as possible beneath the b1·ight warm .-un, r eminded us very much in t hei1· gener al eiiect of Bermuda. We rowed across n.ucl landed at the small cottnge, in which only a policemn.n n.nd hi~; family r eside (n. t he pln.ce is very seldom used for quarn.ntine), n.nd t here we lunched, and after­wards sopamtecl in parties to go over the hill fo1· quai l. Ther e are a. great many of them in t he bush, but they ar e exceedingly shy, and r equire to be very silently and stealthily approached. Ther e w:1.s too much chatterincr a.nd laughing in om· party, an 1 so at fir.·t we did not shoot >Lnything. Dut aftenvards t he policeman took Ge01·ge and led ltim qui >tly aside in the bush, when, whistling low, and so imitating t he call of the qm1.il , he was immediately answered by several of the bi1·ds, who thus wer e alhu·ed

to come nearer and out from the very heathm· and shr ubs amongst which we had been before walking without seeing a single one. Standing on the top of the hill behind the quarantine station, we had a clear view over the whole of K ing George' s Sound, and up into Oyster Harbou1·, which stretches away on the eastern opposite side in a similar way to that i,n which Princess Royal Harbour does on the western. The hillside here abounds in "black boys," curious black r esinous stems, t hree feet Ligh, and one in diameter, with a small green ouft on top, and which make a splendid fire in the bush when one is r equired. Of gum-trees there are also no end, and we were told that so dry is the climate that if any one catches a cold in the heau here, he only has t o take his blanket and sleep out in the open air, and he comes home cured ; such efrect have the eucalyptus leaves. At 4 P.M.

we got into the boat again, and rowed further up Princess Royal Harbour on the southern side, then again landed on a sandy beach ; we walked up into the wood of gum-tr ees behind the old cottage, once mhabited by a lime-burner of the name of McBride, but which is now deser·ted. The trees here were fa1· large1· and stood more thickly together than any on the othe1· side of the harbour ; and the wood. was full of paroquets, who were shrieking and laughing ; and from tree to t1·ee were hanging all sods of creepers and pa.msitic orchids; and the dry calm air was tilled with an m·oma.tic or r esinous odom·; while beside the path which was cut through the wood were several stmngely-shaped and b1·illiantly-coloured flowers growing. Some of us ·wander ed in one direction, and some in the other, and as it was now time to get back to the boat, the wancl01·ers \vere r e­called by several "cooeys." It was getting du. k when we shoved off from the beach to row back across the smooth surface of thP. harbour, in which WE>1·e reflected, as in a. mirror, the rose, blue, g1·een, and golden hues of the .·unset; a few streaky clouds alone were in the sky, n.nd on the water here and the1· were little scarcely perceptible catspaws made by puffs of wind. It was quite dark when we reached the ship, and the stars had all come out ; ther e was no moon till +-wo hours afterwa1·ds. So ended our first clay on Austmlian soil.

3Iav 20tlt. - Left the ship at 9 A.llr. with two ward-room and two gun-room messmat es. "\V,Llked to the police banacks, there mounted om· horses, and started with Mr. Loftie for Mm-blup and Wilson's Creek. Along the P erth 1·oad for a mile out of t he town. then tmned off on the left through the ~crub.

H.M.S. B.ACCH.ANTE AT THE ANTIPODES. 391

The wood at first consists chiefly of va,rious k ind · of banksias <tnd "black boy ," huge c:~tctus-like shrubs, of which there are several ~orts, some .·hort and knobby, others tall and tufted with gre"n blossoms. The r oad tmck is rough, and wher e the soil is boggy wi lens out. The eucalyptus is bedding its "well­formed cups," or , eel-pods, from which it derives its n~tme, all OYer the ground ; the peppermint trees with th •ir willow-like leaves; the paper-bark tl·ees, off the tems of which the ba.r k peels in flakes like pape1·, and with .foliage like the yew; and <t great quantity of scarlet bottle-bu ·h, formed a t hick cover on either side of the r a<td, which occasionally ·bowed signs, by t he blackened stems of some of the taller trevs, of having been at one time cleared by bush fires, although the uncle1~growth wa · now growing four or fiv feet high. A number of black cockatoos, p1·etty grey honey­suckers, and othe1· birds with bright yel­low wings, were flying about. We cro sed two r ough wooden bridges, the one six mile· from .A lbany and the next one mile further on, and then halted for an hom at Twelve-mile Bridge, newly constructed of wood over a small 1-avine, on the side.· of which, after having loosened our horses' girths, we sat down to eat our sandwiches a.nd drink the cold tea we were carrying in om· flasks. The ground is very dry, and, seeing the way in which the grass and leaves take fir" when a lighted m;ttch is casually dropped upon them, one c:an quite und rf'tancl how easy it is wh n th re is a little ·wind for fire.:; to spr ead in the bush. Dr. Rogors overtook us her e, having • tarted later from Albany; he was in a,n A merican ca,valry regiment all through the Northern W r.r, and gave us many a111 nsing st ries of his adven­tures. We r ode on to ::\I:ublup. where we ::trrived about 4 P .)f., th irty miles from Albany, ::tt Mr. Young's farmhou e and cleal·­ing. The mant~::lpiece: , the tables, and all the furniture, ar e made of mahogany, or the darker jarrah wood. The broad large ingle­nook, with seats on either side, looks un­commonly snug with the iron clogs for the

logs, a pile of which last are stacked in the verandah outside, so as to be conveniently handy for throwing on the ftre all night through. Mr. and Mrs. Young, their two sons and two daughters, ga,-e us a hearty welcome, nnd after taking a ch·aught of wa1·m fresh milk (of which there seem · an inex­haustible supply all over the place), we walk up to the sm<tll shanty in which we are to stay. This consi>;ts of two r ooms completely empty and with bare floors, each, however, has a large open fireplace and plenty of jar­rah wood stacked f01· use during the night . Two grand wood fires are already burning, bright and dry, such a contrast to what we have had for the last few weeks on board ship. A small two-wheeled cart that has brought our mattresses and 1·ugs, and what few

SH ANTY IN 'l'HE BUSH .

things we wanted for the night, has arrived before us, and we proceed at once to make our toilet in the open air, for there is plenty of fresh water in the t ank outside, and a . mall wooden t rough does duty by tLn·ns for each of the p~trty. Bevis, a large kangaroo clog, a sort of huge, brown, Scotch greyhound, looks on as we make om·selves ready for Mrs. Young's t ea-supper, for which we r eturn to the farmbou e, and there every one was very hearty and jolly, and did ample justice to the fowl.·, minced kangaroo, the jam, cream, scones, and no end of beautiful fresh milk and butter, such as we have not tasted ·ince we had left England (for there is none, or very little, of either of these two last at the Cape or in South America). The day has been cloudy, but t her e has been no rain, though every one says there is every

H.M.S. BACCHAN1'E AT THE ANTIPODES. 393

sign of it being wet and windy to-morrow, one of which is that the hill::; in the distance are intensely blue. After tea found our way up across the paddock to our night­quar ters, and there we sl pt as soundly as possible (nine in the two rooms), with the windows open and the fires burning. There a.re two pails of fre h milk, which ·om drink neat and others prefer to take mixed with a little whisky before turning in. Some fttll asleep at once, others not so soon, the American doctor's cheery ringing bugh sounding long on the quiet night air, as he a.nd t he commander tell alternately the most a.st ouncling yarns, each with a clenournent

a ch·aught of fresh mi lk and a few mouthfuls of scones, started away at once. We rode after the kangaroo through the bush, and soon pnt up a few, two of which by the help of the dog , we killed, and kept their pads, as those of the first kangaroos we have seen iu their na.tive land. vVe also caught an opo-. urn, which \Ve found in the traditional position "up a gum tree." Returning at ll A.llr.,

had an excellent brea.kfast in the kitchen of the farmhouse, agr eeing tha.t no cream o1· milk, butter or eggs, bread or tea, we had ever tasted was half so good as that here set before us.

Meanwhile the t wo policemen had gone

TUB " BACCHA~~TE'S" S YDNEY-BUILT CUTTER BEATING ALL TEE BOATS OF TEE MEDI'l'F.RRANEAN FLEET AT SUDA BAY, CRETI::.

more startling than the' last. In tb silent pauses between the tales, while they are collecting their wits, we can hear the croak­ing of t he frogs away in the distance on the bor ders of the marsh, and with these two sounds alternate! y ringing in our ears we fell asleep.

May 2lst.-Up at daybreak for the kan­garoo bunt. First, however, in the delicious sunshine of the eady morning, ran clown to t he cr eek and had a good sponge bath amid the rocks in the cool sea water under the forest t rees, since, owing to its shallowness, which extends for a mile fr om the shore. it was impossible to swim; and then, after taking

clown to the creek and caught some snapper and mackerel with lines, though generally the fish here are netted, and tb fishing net s are now hanging up in the ya.rd, ·where they a.re being mended.

There are a quantity of robins, only larger than ours at home, and another bird with a yellow breast, all about in the fields near the house, which are cultiYated with potatoes and co1·n. The paddock of good grass is fenced round and sheltered by tall gum trees; the o~thouses are long and built of wood, and slungled ; the tree-stems are a.ll blackened by the frequent bush fires, aftel' which the grass grows better.

39-± H.:NI.S. BACCHANTE .AT THE .ANTIPODES.

At 1.30 P .U. we started to walk round the lago n ·with J ohn Young an l D1·. Rogers, to look fo1· wild duck; the comrn;mder and the r est were to circle 1·ound t h other end, shooting a: tb .y went, and so meet us on t he oppo:;ite side. On coming clown to a little creek we c·1·ept cautiou ·ly tln·ough the bushes and dried r eed beds, and found a lot of duck at once, whi h were quietly swimming about in tb water. They ar e very by, an l have to be stalked unt il within gun ·hot range ; one of the pa1·ty incautiously showed himself and t he duck got a.way. The next time we were more wm·y, and managed to get nearer to anothet· lot in the next creek, where George made some good flying shots high overhea l, whil.-t other birds that came clo ·e were mi . eel . The whole place seemed alive with teal, dive1·s, cmne, mallard, and black swan. .A la.rge flock of these la ·t, howevflr, kept more t han a mile away 1·ight out in the centre of the lagoon. We hea,r the other pa1·ty firing in the distance and continue our walk round the shores of the lagoon, which reminds m; of the pictures of the " Dismal Swamp;" amidst the reeds and rushes are lots of paper-ba.rk tree lying ahout in all sorts of queer shaped log., just as they have f<tllen from time to time, and the1·e been loft uncared for; and he ·ide: these, the1· :ne r·ount le · "black boys" in all direction::;, .-h01·t and stumpy, tall and slcnc1 r. W o ca.me upon th 1·est of the party as agreed, <tnd then, in 01·de1· t o <Yet at the blackswan, which wc saw swimming in the middle of the lagoon, set off to wade n.cross, where at low W<tter it i · only one foot deep; this shnllow bank, or tongue, stretches right acros the lagoon , and a,long it we waded with the water up to om· knees. The com­mande1· with his rifle got one ·hot at the swan, and one bi1·d fell , but they were out­side gun ·hot range and wer e all off at on e, rising high in th air. vVe come out at the edge of the lagoon and make om· way up to the cottage :tga.in; a, hon y:ucker and a, few oth 1· sm<tll binb are shot on the way. vVe have had a fine day's outing; the sense of freedom and the splendid dryness of the air are mo:t cleliciou ·. W ar e, however, too many for proper port, and it i impo sible to r estrain t he natm·al excitement of some of the pa1-ty so a,s to get near the binl , which :.u·e vel'y shy. W e had a. good tea in Mrs. Young's kitchen, and found tha.t some of the kanga.roo which we had got in the morning wa ·, when minced, vm·y excellent. .Alter , nppe1· the wind and rain began, and it was a very sqmtlly night.

May 22nd.- .After . leeping very soundly

went lown for <t sponge bath in .the ·ea water in the creek off t he r ocks, and found it very cold. After thi::; we did full j u:tice to om breakfast. Round each of om· plates Mrs. Young had laid a small wreath of r osebud ·, "for l::!un lay morning, and in memory of England." When the things we1·e cleared away we h:t l a ·hol't ·ervice in the kitchen, at which the whole family attended and joined. This patria1·chal and . impl praise and prayer ended, we mounted our horses, and having thanked lVh. and Mr .. Young for th ir kindn ss, and the hospitable intro­duction which they had [;·i,en us to a . ettler's life in the .Australian bush, we started for .Albany~ oon after noon. Eddy had ridden on a black horse called " Leo," after the p1·e. ent Pope, he had a long swinging t1·ot , ·o 1-a1·e in Australian horses ; but he r etm·n cl to-day, however, on a chestnut called "Hongist," who had a delightful canter.

llcty 23?·d.- Meanwhile cli.-ers and carpen­ters bad been employed about the rudder, ::md on Saturday 21st it had been hoisted out and secm·ed to the side of the lighter, and this morning it was sent on shore towed by the t eam pinnace. It will be tempo­rarily repait·e~l here, enough to get the ship under stea.m to 1Ylelhom·ne, and there we shall be detained anothe1· thr e weeks or so until the r pa.i1·s are completed, aml probably the ship will have to go into dock. 'l'he rudcle1· is a very large one, in order that the ship m<ty be han ly for steam manomvres.

.May 28th.-.At 9.30 A.~r. tarte l in team pinnace with th co=ancler, three officers, a,nd our shore friend the American doctor, to run clown the Sound to Breaksea Island to shoot rabbits. W e landed soon after 11 A .)L :tncl broke up into two pal'tie::: and began shooting at once. It wa a beautiful day, but 1·ather wam1 walking in the ·un. .At 2.30 P .M. we went up to the lighthouse to lunch, wher e 1Yh. and M1·s. Turnfll' received us very kindly; they are the on ly people who Jive on the island . .After lunch we went ont shooting again ; our bag at the end of the day was two wallabies, three quail, and twenty-two 1·abbits ; there are plenty of these la ·t in the island, and we might have got mol'e if we had had clogs to put them up. vVe ]eft in th steam pinnace at 6 P . .i\L , but foun(l it rather a,wkwarcl on account of the swell to bring in such a big boat for the 1·ope ladder, which is over twenty feet long, to swing into from the clif'r above. .Anived on boa1·d at 7.1 5 P.M. The1·e a.re signs that the weather is going to change, and that we shall have m01·e wind and -min.

H.:M.S. BAGGHAN:Z'E AT THE A TIPODE . 395

June 7th.-The "Snowdrop Minstrels," the B accltante's neg1·o troupe, gave an enter­tainment ou shor e at t he court-hou ·e this evening, on behalf of the Seamen <tnd :i\'larines Orphans' Home at I 01-tsmouth, at which they got £18. The next chty Mr. Loftie came off and gave us two white cockatoo , one of which afterward. became uncommonly tame and a general faYOUl'ite on board up to the day we arrived in England. His berth on boal'd was usually in t he stoke-bole, where he was taught many graceful t1·icks by the chief engineer, and ·ucceeded in imitating to a nicety the various sounds of the machinery and of t he men when'' getting up ashes." A picnic pa1·ty went away in the steam pinnace towing the dingy up Oyster H arbour and the King Rive1·, where some of the young­. ·ters got left behind, and bad to :find their way home in the d<wk through the bush. J~me 9th.- '\1ile were called at 1. 30 A.M. , as

the mail wa in. vV e went on board in the pinnace by the light of t he moon and sta1·s, which, together with the comet and Saturn and Jupiter in conjunction, we1·e all then brightly shining. "\Ve got two good cabins that happened to be ;-acant as far forward as po ·sible, and at 4 A.M. the Cc£thc£y, Captain Robb1 e, got unde1· way. We had first said good-bye to l\Ir. L oftie, and thanked him for the con taut efforts he had made to rende1· our tlll'ee-woeks' stay in the neighbourhood of King Gem·ge's Sound an agr eeable one, and we a ke l him to convey to the Governor our 1·eg1·et that we could not visit P erth, the capital of the colony. "\Ve shall ever cherish a grateful 1·emini ·cence of th kindly loyalty we have experienced from all the Queen's subjects at this our fir:t landing-place in Australia.

"\V e steamed round the · Bacclwnte and Cleopatm, whose lights and those of the pilot's cottage, huming b1·ight at the top of the ha1·bour, wer e the last sight w saw bef01·e we turned in and slept soun l till 8 A.M . the next morning.

June lOth.-It "·as a curious sensation to get up this m01·ning and have no 1·egular work to do at :ea. E'erything in the ship appears very clean and nice, the decks espe­cially so. Ther e happen to be only thirty­seven passengers on board. The wind is gradually ri ·ing, an l at la t t urns to a strong muzzier h oru the north-en ... t ; the :ea, too, is getting up: t he captain is complaining that we m·e only mctking twelve and a half knots against it; t his, however, seems a fair speed to u , who haYo been accustomed lately to the leisurely ::md dignified crawl of a man­of-war.

June 12th.-We came to an anchor at Glenelg, and on lancliug we went by train to .Adelaide, where we d1·ove up to Uove1·n­ment Hou e, and heard the first British chee1·s thttt httve sounded in om· ear s for many a day. It being Sunuay evening t he stl·eets we1·e full of people, who all seemed as glad to see us as we were to see them. Everythin er

seemed like home. Sir William and Lad~ Jervois haLl supper waiting for us, and we went to bed a little before midnight.

June 14tk -Star ted at 6 A.M. by special train for Kadina. Sir vVilliam JYlilne and Colonel Fitzroy went with us. Breakfasted at Balaclava, and then on to Kadina. The train r an through much wheat land, which, as it is now near mid-winter, was however only covered with stubble. The original scrub and wild grass have been superseded by wheat fi elds tmd rich pasturage; flourish­ing homesteads stretch fa1· away ove1· plain and upland, and all wea1· an appearance of successful indu t1·y; one great wheat field is :fifty mile without a break. The yeomanry and the farmers here ar e the backbone of the colony. After passing through this fertile phtin the line ente1·s the native scrub, and t hen, ascending up a steep in­cline and m:111y cutting · t hrough dark reel 1·ock, draws nectl' to Kaclina, wher e we anivecl after thus cro sing the York Penin­·ula about 11 A .M. The mayor met u: on the platf01·m and r ead an address. We Lhen got into two brakes with four horse. , and drove to '[oonta, eight miles, th1·ough the open bu,·h ; t here was a good metal 1·oad lately laid, but the drivers pre:' n ed, as many others seemed to have done before them, to strike out a r oad for themselves on the turf, where many parallel lines traced by the wheels of our p1·edecessors extended on either side of the regular r oad for two or three hunch·ed y:w ls. Tall brick chimneys, lofty scaffolclings with wheels at the top, an l the other usual ·unoundings that be. peak p1·oximity to mining ope1·ai.ions, though there wa · no smoke or grimy blackness such a usua.lly in simihw cases sullies the purity of the country ail·, greeted us as we drove up to Captain Hancock's office. Thel'e we dressed in flannel shirts and t ronser s changed our hats and boots, and walkinO' t~ the head of one of the shafts got four ~t n. time into cn.gc ·, by which we wer e lower ed into th rich copper mine helow. All here, "one and all," :ne t1·ue Co1·nishmen, fine stalwart fellows j mo t of tho ewe see young, tall, and broad, with a ·light South Austra­lian drawl, but of the real English bone and sinew and straightforward look about t heir

396 H.:M .• ' . BAOOHANTE A'r THE .A~TIPODES.

faces. Mining operations here, though now depressed, seem in a fair way of revival. We were to have gone on to Wallaroo, where there are some large smelting works with blast furnaces as large a those at Swansea, but time would not allow. The mayor of Wallaroo, an Orkney m:m, whose n.cquaintance we were very glad to make, drove with us back to Kadina, where we ltmched. W left Kadina abou~ 4 P.M., and arrived at Adelaide afte1· a quick run down at 8 P .M.

J~me 15th.-·Afte~· breakfast busy writing letters for the mail until at 11 A.)!. started on horseback with the governor to t·ide to Marble Hill, eighteen miles away on Mount Lofty. F1·om the summit of this la~t are many beautiful views, one especially from the Eagle N est Inn down Waterfall Valley, looking back on Adelaide and the sea in the distance. The bills here are all covered with trees to the summits, and r eminded us of the blue mountains in J amn,ica. But about everything--:the hedgerows, the fields, the grass, the carts, the men, these la t stal­wart, and brown, and unexcitable-there was an unmistakable ·tamp of England, as we rode along and gra.dually mounted the hills to the governor's house.

Jwne 16th.-After brea.kfa ·t started with the governor by special train to Freeling, where we arrived at 11 A.M., and then drove twenty miles to Colingrove, Mr. Angas's place, ·wher e we anived at 1.30 l'.M. The road leads up and down over a rolling land of fertile re l earth, and past many villages, some of them inhabited entirely by Germans (the holding >tre mo tly of 200 acres each, well tilled, each side of the road), and others entirely by Swis:, until it arrives at Angaston. A couple of miles outside' this township a cavalcade of Odclfellows, with sashes and bows, came forth to meet u . One of them was brandishing hi,· r ed banner on high, which or enttion, as neither he nor hi · hor ·e were used to it, caused the two to pa1·t comp;tny, the man being shot in one direction, and the banner in the other. vV e picked him up <tnd put him into one of the cn.niage:, and mni d him hack to a public­house at the ent1-ance of the villag horn which he had started. Thi wa · his home, and here we 1 ft him, a little stunned and brui:sed, but no don ht n. ble, after furthe1· slight reheshment, to feel quite himself ag<tin . At the school-honse in Angastm the clist1·ict council read n ·hort aclcl1·ess to -the govern01·, to which he, fit<tnding up in the can:iage, replied in a few hearty a1 cl sensible words, which \\·ere chee1· cl to the echo by all

the inhabitants and holiday-folk who were standing round.

Jwne 17th.- We are over 1,200 feet higher here than at Adelaide, an l the barometer has gone with a bound from thirty inches to twenty-nine. It is a fine bright bracing morning. After breakfast we go clown to look at the emus in the paddock, where they are kept for laying egg . They lay twice a week in a strange rough sort of nest, which is simply a heap of weeds lying on the tm-f. After lunch we drove away at 1.30 P.M. back to Freeling, through Greenock, Neurioopta, Daveytown, Anga.s Park, and Angaston, and left by special train for Adelaide, where we arrived at 6 P.M. Went to dine with the Speaker, Mr. Ross, and the Legi. lative body, and after that to the mayor 's ball at the town hall, which was a very fine thing. The whole front of the building wn.s bril­liantly illuminated with gas, as also had been that of the parliament house where we dine 1. The mayor read an addres ·, and Eddy r e­plied. There were about 800 people, but it was not at all crowded, as, besides the ball­room, other rooms were all thrown open, the council chamber being used as a card and smoking-room.

June lSth.-vVe went to the opening of the National Art Gallery in the new Uni­ve1·sity Buildings, to which the Queen has lent some pictures from Windsdr : Chief Justice vV ay did the honours. One h und1·ed members of the Volunteer Force (of which there are in all 1,500) were dmwn up at the side, under Major .Fergus on, and looked vm·y well in their scarlet uniforms. The ·e m eu volunteered to go to the Tran vaal, and meant it too, but were declined. South Au -tralia evidently considers itself a real and living portion of the British Empire, and is quite willing to share the burden· of citizenship \vith the mother country.

June l ~ltlt.-In the afternoon ch·ove to the Hospital for Incurable ·, where there are about forty-eight patients; we went all over it and sn,w all in ove1·y ward. There w re ·everal poor boy with spinal affections, one ve1·y bright litt le chap chn.tted with us some time and gave us some carving of his own doing. 'rhere were n.l o some poor para1y ·eel old meH who were ·tmning themselves in hont. W e had a quiet dinner at Government House, and :tfterw:uds some mul'ic and hymns with Lady and Miss J e1·vois in the d1-awing-1·oom.

June 20th. - Left Adelaide at 7.30 A.M.,

d1·iven by Mr. Stirling in his drag; Lieutenant J ervois and Mr. Thring ("the colonel" whose acquain tancewefirst inade in the mail steamer , who is a nepl ew of Sir Edward 'l'ln-ing, and

U.~I. S . BACCHANTE UNDER FULL SAIL.

398 H.M.S. BAGGHANTE AT THE ANTIPODES.

related to the governor) arc going with us; as w leave Adehtide we pa s small g1·oups of working men going to their la.bout, who stop nnd cheer u ·. '.Cbe road leads awny up Mount Lofty, past Gl n Osmond nt the foot of the hills, and four mile· from Adelaide, where the Hon. T. Eller has a curious collection of animals and birds. Hitherto the road is the same as we went on W eclnesday, the rich ara.blc land all inclosed with posts and rails or hcuges, and under cultivation for grain and fodder, for vineyards and gardens, and i t hickset with homestead . From the summit, •tS the sun is shining brightly amid the woods of reel and blue gum trees with other under­growth, we have our last look at Adelaide, with its towers and steeples in the cli tance over the plain·, and the gleaming line of sea L> hind in the Gulf of St. Vincent. We pulled up for breakfast at Chafer's Inn. From this point begins the descent on the opposite si le of the hills ; this is more gradual than the ascent, and the woods here -now of white and tringy bark gum trees (a difterent kind from those on the western side of the range) and far thinne1· and more open. We ch·ive traight through Echunga (twenty­one miles from Adelaide) to 'Macclesfield, where we change hor ·es. Getting clown for a fe'v minutes, chatted with a lot of little lads hom the Halndorf School close by, •tmongst whom one who was a German and :1nothe1· who was a Jew made the brightest jokes. The road leads on now over a country of picturesque hills and valley·, over lots of land with dead gum tree:; on either side, these having been "rung," the land was for a ,;hort time cultivated for wheat, but the soil was too poor, and is now again used for sheep farming. Thus on to Strathalbyn, a Scotch settlement, whe1·e we again stopped to change horses, thil'ty-five miles from Adelaide, and where the town councillors, partly German and partly Scotch, welcomed us, and with them we go into the Institute, where we drink their healths, and then go and look at the volunteers· who are also all tm·ned out; they are strong, stalwar t, well et-up men iu a erviceable, workm<tnliko uniform. From here we drive on through a neady level countq of pasture ::md wheat-fields, thi1·teen miles to Milang, on the western side of Lake Alexandrina, and thus ends our pleasant coach drive, forty-eight miles from Adelaide.

Her Mr. Landsee1· (a relative of Sir Edwin's), the chief resident, member of the tts ·embly, and owner of the steamers on the lake, got us on to the tram, ran us down the jetty, where the Despatch was waiting with steam up, on board of which they had

prepared lunch for us. Mr. Edmnncl Bow­man, the eldest nephew of Mr. Bowman of Campbell House, with whom we m·e going to stay, and Mr. Da.venp01·t, one of the olde t colonists and full of the rnost interesting conversation, met us here, and as soon as the luggage had arrived we start cl and proceeded down the inland sea. or Lake Alex>'tnclrina, which is nowhere more than ·ix or eight feet deep, and in parts not two, although the urface of the water (thirty miles long by

fifteen broad) is so large that in many places the opposite coast is out of sight. It opens to the sea by a nanow pas age known as the Mul'l'ay sea mouth ; the lake is in reality an enlargement of the. 1\lurray River, whose waters it r eceives at its north-ea,st encl. It was quite dark .when we arrived at the jetty by Campbell House, at the southern end of Lake Albert at 6.15 P.M. and were piloted in by rockets and by blue lights, and, as it is very shallow, landed in small boat . Ir. and Mrs. Bowman gave us a warm reception; after dinner went to bed pretty ti1·ecl.

June 2lst. - Breakfast at 7.30 A.M., and started i=ediately aften vards, some riding and others driving, for the kangaroo hunt. In the first drive Eddy shot two kangaroo, a right and left shot, Ge01·ge shot three ; they are in such large numbers he1·e that, although their skins make capital fur, it i · custom­ar y to cut oft only their thick tails, which make excellent soup, and leave thei1· ctucasses on the ground. There were lot of dulachies, which are smaller than a brown kangaroo, and are grey-haired and reel-beaded ; these do not strike the tail on the grounrl in running as the kanga1·oo appea1· to do. There are pits in the corners of this one paddock (which alone consists of 800 acres) into which the kangaroo are driven on all sides by 200 blacks and many whites mounted; a· they come bounding and leaping along they seem to have great difficulty in tuming, and never attempt to avoid ttny person o1· obstacl that may be in their way, but go traight for it, whatever it may be, even if it end · in their being capsized. A g1·eat many of comse dirl not fall into the pit, the majority breaking back through the line of beaters. There we1·e two pits, however, into which a good many jumped, and out of these one J oey was taken, and a little baby kangaroo out of it mother's pouch. The kangaroo are very cl structive to the sh ep runs by eating the gras , and multiply at a great rate; faster than they can ·be kept clown. On this estate, which eonsists of 50,000 acres, the1·e were 4,000 kangaroo killed last yea1· ; each tail, which is worth about sixpence, is given to the keepers.

H.M.S. BACCHANTE AT THE ANTIPODES. 399

There were lots of wild tmkey about, for it is a rough countr y all round, though it makes an excellent; sheep run.

We had lunch in the bush- EnglLh pa1·k­like lanrl wooded with gum trees and shee­oaks, no undergrowth, only 1·ough grass­making u. fire and cooking our own meat. Mr. Bowman showed us how to make bush­man's t ea, boiling the water first in the billy, putting the tea on the top and then the sugar, stirring it up with a ·tick. After lunch we rode after more kanga1·oo on horseback. You can ride a kangaroo down after about; two miles in the open ; we got twelve in this way. U sing kangaroo hounds, about fifty or sixt;y more were taken; the dulachies and wallabie · leap and bound with thei1· tails off the ground, the kangaroo seem.· to use his as a lever .. No kangaroo, unle by accident, in uneven gl"Ound when going fast touches the ground with the tail. The tail balances the animal. Wh n standing or moving slowly in act; of f ediug the animal ha·s the tail a.lways touching the gronncl. The An. tralian hor. ·es are very quick to turn, and w·hen the bridle is merely pre eel against one side of the neck, or when the. ·lightest hint is given by the pre ·­sure of the knee, they are round in a second. And it is the same in driving ; it ·was quite · astonishing to watch the way in which Mr. Bowman handled his pair, an l ,.vhisked the waggonette in and out a.nd 1·ouncl about the stump· and fallen trees and all over the scrub, and coming home kept ur abrea ·t of the gallop­ing horsemen. Through the gra ·s of the open there are broad clearings cut for roads, which r eminded one of the "1·idinrrs" in the woods at home; this i clone to check bu h fires.

The ·oLmd of a lamb's bleat r emin led one aiso of England, where to-clay is the 1 ngc ·t day, though here it is the shortest in the year. The sky is leaden, and though there is no frost, there is a feel about the clear air like a black winter. After dinner, which was at 6 P.M., we went to .-ee a konobbor e, where th black-fellows were encampe l at a short; li ·tance from the house. There were two tribes of these, and about 200 of them in all. They w r e painted with white and black streaks acro the face and che t, and got up in correct style with . kins and spears and boomerangs, and by the light of the fires which were kindled in a circle around they looked ufficiently hideous. The tribes danced altemately, and the watchwords of their songs appeared to be half English, half native. A great deal of the action of the dance con i ·t ed in striking the ground at the same moment, so as to cause an echoing thud with their feet . One of the r epeated actions

" ·a. to cause the mu. cles of the l g and thigh to quiver imultaneou ·ly h om toe to stomach in a most extraordina1·y manne1·. At the end of each figure they brought themselves up sharp with a trange deep-toned sound, half hurrah, half grunt, "Wir- r - r - wuh!" They would then wheel right acro. s the in­closed pace in line, and chatte1·ing as fa t as they could, upon the women who were sitting on the ground, and al o singing a sort of chorus of a few notes ; the line would then wheel back, break up into twos and threes, bmndishing their short stick · and club over their head ·, each man vocifemting quickly to hi mate, and then all of a sudden these in­coherent sounds would all coalesce together into a chorus, and the band, again united, would cause the ground once more to vibrate to the r eiterated cadence of their stamp.

June 22ncl.-Up at 4.30 A.M., and at 5.0 went by moon and sta.dight; and the two pla.net s , aturn and Me1·cmy still in conjunc­t ion, and with t.he rock t anl blue lights to help us to find om· way to the end of the jetty, down to the Despatch steame1·, to c1·oss over to Meningie on the opposite side of the lake t en miles off, but forty horn i\Iilang at the other end. W e anived there at clay­break about 7.0 A.M. In the grey rooming light, and wit h all the "Teen weed through which the steamer pu.-hed its way in the shallow water to the hmding place, it did not seem an over-cheerful place ; but the few people that we1·e about, >md with whom we conversed promiscuou ly, we1·e hem·Ly and sound-minded. They had nothing to gain by pret ending what they did not feel, •~nd their profes eel feelings were . ucb as did honom· to themselves. We got into a la.1·ge b1·eak here that was waitina for us with fom· horse , and put what luggage we had into a 1.wo-horsed buggy to follow. A good metal r oad led off th1·ough the bush that stretched away on ei ·her side, and consi ·ted chiefiy of mallee scrub and dwarf eucalyptu.-, and so to the "Tam o', 'hante1· Inn," whe1·e J\!h. JHcUulhun ha.d prepared a capital hot b1·eakfa ·t of fresh fish and sausage.-, to whi ·h, having been four hours in the open air, w J.id ample justice. Then on through the bu ·h again, and along down the Corong, where the1·e i many a pretty view in the unlight OYer the smooth blue water to the sand dunes and hills be­yond, which shut out the . ea from thi · long estuary. Then for mile over open gra lan ls, and gum t1·ees here and there, either in clumps or solitary,vise, and with a shanty or other sign of truggling or straggling .-ettler, and with the 1·oad iu pa1·t · well metalled and a sound and hard as any in

H.l\1. . BACCHANTE AT THE ANTIPODES. 401

England, and in others merely running over grass, and the black peaty soil chmnecl up by many ruts and scored with wheel-ma1·ks of passing traffic. The mail between Ade­laide and Melbourne runs ovedancl this way, and the well-horsed coach pa ing twice a clay to and fro is the chief enlivener of the solitude which otherwise, except for the bounding kangaroo and a few wild tmkey, seem~=; perpetual. JYir. and Mrs. Bowman had kindly provided two hand-boxes, which we carried in the carriage with us, filled with fruit and more solid refreshments, which horn time to time still further enheartened t he spirit of the travellers, whom, however, "the vivaciou · colonel" kept pretty well awake. In many places we drive as through an open English park, on1y it is like a park in chancery, with the tree fallen and cle~td and the stumps protruding here and th re, and pool · uncared for, and the g1·ass growing by their side ·, clank and lank. Aud then over a sanely be~tch, and through water neady over the wheels for a mile or two, }?ut all sunny and pleasant; and then on to a wholly different soil, black and fertile, the fenced holdings hflreabouts showing that man had taken natme in hand, "as when Arhm delved and Eve span," to replenish the earth nnd subdue it. A few flock of sheep wander­ing at large and enjoying themselves by brow:ing a we had been doing, although on other material were the signs that wa.rned u · we were drawing neitr to Coolatoo, wl ere we pulled up for lun h at 4 P.M. It w~'s a sm::tll inn kept by a D::tne of the name of A.ndersen, a native of Funen, with whom we enjoyed a chat about Copenhagen, though it is many year: ince he has been the1·e. Here the mail tops daily at 8 P.)I. for supper, and here the t"·o brawny mounted South Australian police handed on their duties to another pair ; two of this well-mounted and well-equipped, ::tnd in every respect, as far as the eye could judge, highly atisfn.ctory body of men conducted u th whole w;Ly. So n after len.ving here the stt rs came out n,<Yain, a.n 1 we let lown the curtains of the brake a.nd had a snooze, but as the road wa in parts very rough the member. of the pal'ty now and then had a goocl real bang one against another. It was nearly 10 P.~r. b fore we arrived at Kingston at the end of our runety- ight miles drive hom J\Icningie, having made altogether 108 miles to-day, which i more than the Bacchante' s a,verage for twenty-four hours. Here the inhn.bi~ants had illuminated their houses, and some of them even came out in a cavalcade to welcome us. After a good dinner at Peek's Hotel,

wild tm·key and teal, we turned in and went to bed at 1 A.)l. without the luggage, which did not arrive until an hour later. The buggy found the roa.d very heavy, and ha l to put up with a jibber m· two. In olden clays Mr. P ek had be n Colonel Mount Edgcombe's ·ervant, and, cm'iously, had been with him when he st::tyed at the oll house at San lringham.

Jtme 23·rd. - B1·eakfasted, and off by special tnLin at 8 A .M. vVe had a glance first at the pier and jetty, where two steamer were lying for wool. The district council turned out, and their chai1·man 1·eacl a short acldres. at the station. We shook him by the hand, and told him we were much obliged for all his good wishes, and we hoped he would liYe many years, and that every day of his life would be as full of hap­piness to him as he ·aiel to-clay ''"as. The dew wa.: lying heavy on the ground, and there was ;t ho ·ty keen feel in the ai1·. The train sped along ·wiftly through ·c1·ub and two o1· th1·ee wayside tation~'> to Lucingdale, where it stopped to water, and all the school children tlU'ned out in a row along the plat­form, " ·hich ome one had pent pain and trouble tp decorate prettily with eYergreens, and sang "God ·aye the Queen." vVe arrived at N anacom·t , the pre ent end of the :f:ifty-thre miles raihYn.y horn Kingston, a,t 10.30 A.M., where we mounted J\:Ir. .Robertson's private caniage, and droYe :f:ir ·t to District Square, where both of u planted a gum tree. vVe were told thn.t lots more were going to be planted to-clay to make a. shady ;wenue round the ·quare, and eYi, dently the people here ~u-o p1·epared to make a regular day after we have gone on. Ther are signs of preparations for feasting, and the bra .. s ban l with a Yery big ch·um have already begun thei1· manipulation. Then to Struan House, where we lunched with 1r. Robertson ; before that we wnlked oYer his g1·ounds, a.nd sn.w in the park the ·maJJ fenced inclosure ·within which his father rests, who wa · one of the first :ettlers who CA.me out her thil'ty-two yen1·s ago ; and then to see the ka.ngaroo hound · and his stud. After lunch ch·oye on through open park-like ·cenery to Penola, thirty-two miles from Narracoorte, where we anived about 4 P.M. Here there was something quitl' new in the way of an acldre ··s r ead by ::\Ir. l\1cKenzio, chai1·man of the district council : it was inclosed in a silk cas like a Union Jack, which must have cost the school chil­dren who had worked it much time and labour, and r efenecl amongst other things to our being in the navy. These again are

DD

402 l-I.M.S. BACCHANTE AT THE ANTIPODES.

drawn up by the side of the road, and sing the Nationn.l Anthem. There is n.lso something original about the decorations here, and it is touching to see strong hearty men as well as >I'Omcn 1·eaJly affected by the remembrances of the old (!Onntry which our coming seems to n.wakcn in their breasts ; for of course we know well enough that all this is not got up for us, but is mm·ely a sign of their warm attachment to England over the seas, and of all that name awakens and recalls in every British breast. Drove on another four miles to Yallum Park, the charming and com­fortable residence of Mr. Riddock, in a very pretty garden. Mr. Scott is staying here, and after dinner he and 1r. Riddocl( chatted away in the billiard-room, and ga:ve us a good insight into the ways and manners of the country. · The Scotch are the best and

most successful of e~grants. Half the mo t prominent rtmong the statesmen of the Canadian confederation, of Victoria, and Queensland are born Scots, and all the great merchants of India are of the same nation. Whether it is that the Scotch emigrants are for the most part men of better education than those of other nations, or whethe1· the Scotchman owes his uniform success in every climate to his perseverance or his shrewd­ness, the fact remains that wherever abroad · you come across a Scotchman you invariably find him prosperous and respected in calcu­lating contentment; and with a strong· handed, open-hearted hospitality that no words can render adequate thanks for. To come in contact only with such colonists is morally healthgiving.

li.~I. S, '' !MC(; IJAN'I't: '' A 'I' ANCUUH. lN llODSON'S H.\ Y1

)I!:;J.UOU H.NJ·: .