How to Assemble the E3D All-Metal v6 Hotend · INTRODUCTION Warnings - Please Read! 1. The...

MatterHackers

How to Assemble the E3D All-Metal v6 HotendWritten By: Ryan Lutz

How to Assemble the E3D All-Metal v6 Hotend

© 2017 matterhackers.dozuki.com of 20

INTRODUCTIONWarnings - Please Read!

1. The HeatBreak is fragile. If you are using a large spanner, hitting it with a hammer, etc. It willbreak.

2. The thermistor is small and fragile. Be gentle with the legs. The bead is made of glass - don'tcrush! It is also very small, so don't breathe.

3. You are dealing with high temperatures - the HotEnd gets hot, and may be off your printer whenyou do the initial tightening. If you touch it, you will get burned!

4. You are dealing with high currents, make sure you double check all your wiring and your powersupply rating. It is not recommended to work on anything whilst it is plugged in. Bad wiring withimproper current ratings can cause fire.

5. Be sure you have ordered (and received!) the correct voltage heater and fan to match your 3Dprinter. If the heater cartridge specification is not lasered onto the cartridge, you can easily checkwith a multimeter, this is described in the #Heater_Cartridge section. Connecting 12v parts to 24vpower can result in overheating, component damage or fire.

6. The E3D-v6 is a high performance HotEnd, capable of reaching a wide range of temperatures. Thetemperatures that ignite some plastics are within the normal printing temperatures of other plastics. Ifyou only plan on printing ABS, PLA, and/or Nylon, it is recommended that you set your heatercartridge “MAX_PWM” to 150 in your firmware, in order to limit the E3D’s heater to a range suitablefor these plastics. If you are not printing materials requiring ~300C, there is no need for “MAX_PWM"to be set over 150. This variable can usually be found in the configuration.h file of your printersfirmware. You can always change it to a higher value when you want to experiment with highertemperatures, it is much more difficult to extinguish a housefire.

7. Like all 3D printers, printers fitted with a high temperature all metal hotend can be a fire hazard.You are using experimental technology to heat and melt plastic, in a machine that you may have builtor modified yourself, that likely does not have safety certification or significant failsafes. Fire/Smokealarms, supervision of your printer while printing, and expertise should not be considered optional.

8. Your HotEnd and your printer is your responsibility. We cannot be held responsible for damagescaused by the use, misuse or abuse of our products.



TOOLS:16mm Spanner (1)

7mm Spanner (1)

Pozi-Drive Screwdriver (1)

M2.5 Hex Wrench (1)

Ruler (1)

Wire cutters (1)

M2 Hex Wrench (1)

Wire strippers (1)

PARTS:Aluminium Heatsink (Contains embedded

fitting for tubing in 1.75mm Universal and3mm Bowden versions) (1)

Stainless Steel Heatbreak (1)

Aluminium Heater Block (1)

Brass Nozzle (0.4mm) (1)

100K Semitec 104GT2 NTC thermistorwith 100mm x Silicone Fibreglass Sleeving(1)

12v or 24v 25W Heater Cartridge (1)

12v or 24v 30x30x10mm fan (1)

High Temperature Fiberglass Wire - forThermistor (150mm) OR 1m of Thermistorwire (with 0.1" connector when available)(1)

0.75mm Ferrules - for Solder-Free WireJoins (4)

Plastfast30 3.0 x 16 screws to attach thefan to the fan duct (4)

M3x3 socket dome screw and M3washer to clamp thermistor (1)

M3x10 socket dome screw to clamp theheater block around the heater cartridge (1)

Fan Duct (Injection Moulded PC) (1)

800mm of appropriately sized PTFEtubing (for Bowden installations) (1)

Screw in Coupler for extruder end oftubing (for Bowden installations) (1)



Step 1 — HotSide

Screw Nozzle into the Heater Blockinto the end closest to the thermistorholes.

Unscrew the Nozzle a 1/4 to a 1/2turn.

Step 2

Screw the Heat Break into the otherside of the Heater Block so it isbutts up against the nozzle.



Step 3

Gripping the Heater Block with aspanner, tighten the Nozzle with asecond spanner.

Do not over-tighten, we are going totighten it up later when the heaterblock is hot.

Step 4 — Thermistor

Cut the blue glass-fiber sleeving into2 x 35mm lengths and slide themonto the legs of the thermistor.

Optional: Crimp a ferrule on each legover the sleeving to ensure thesleeving stays in place. Ensure youposition this ferrule such that it willnot touch the heater block whenassembled (you will need to place itsome way from the thermistor headif you are assembling a volcanoheater block).



Step 5

Hold the thermistor between yourfinger and thumb and make a 90ºbend in the legs about 5mm from thetip of the bead.

Step 6

Place the of the thermistor into the hole, and fasten in place using the smaller M3x4 screw andwasher.

Use your fingernails to keep the sleeving under the washer whilst tightening.

Visually check that the blue sleeving is isulating the legs of the thermistor right down to the bead. Ifthe legs make electrical contact with the block or each other your temperature readings will beincorrect and you risk overheating.



Step 7 — Heater Cartridge

If you have one, grab a multimeterand check the resistance of yourheater cartridge against theinformation in this table. Expect yourvalue to deviate a little from these,however if yours is significantly offor you are concerned you have thewrong cartridge please contact E3Dfor support.

Insert the Heater Cartridge with theleads exiting the block the sameside as the thermistor. Centre thecartridge in its hole in the block.

Step 8

Tighten the clamping portion of theheater block around the heatercartridge with the longer M3x10screw. As in the photo below youshould be able to see very slightdeformation of the heater blockclamp as it wraps around thecartridge for maximum thermalcontact.



https://matterhackers.dozuki.com/Wiki/E3D_Heater_Cartridge_Resistance

https://e3d-online.com/ContactUs

Step 9 — Thermistor Wire

Strip the ends of the red and blackthermistor cable and put a length ofheatshrink over each wire.



Step 10

Place a ferrule on each sleeved thermistor leg.

If you have the flared mouth of the ferrule pointing away from the hotend it makes it easier topush them over the wires later.

Form the thermistor wire and bare portion of the thermistor legs into hooks, and hook the legstogether.

Push the ferrule over the bare portions of the wires ready to crimp into place.



Step 11

Crimp the ferrules by firmly crushingthem with a pair of pliers.

You can use a fancy ferrule crimpingtool if you have one, but it's notneeded.

Step 12

Slide the heatshrink down over thenow crushed ferrules and shrink intoplace with a heat source such as asoldering iron, heat gun, or even aflame.



Step 13

Screw the HeatSink onto theHeatBreak by gripping the heatsinkin one hand and the heater block inthe other. It only needs to betightened up hand-tight.

Do not over-tighten.

Step 14 — PTFE Tubing (If Applicable)

The following four steps apply to these versions and special considerations relating to them:

1.75mm Direct

1.75mm Bowden

3mm Bowden

3mm Direct does not use any PTFE tubing.



Step 15 — 1.75mm Direct

The PTFE tubing in the 1.75mmDirect configuration is not optional,you must use the tubing or theHotEnd will not function properly.

The tubing should be inserted fromthe top of the now assembled hotendand pushed as far down into thehotend as possible.

In 1.75mm HotEnds the tubingpasses right through the heatsinkand into the heatbreak. Below is anillustration of how far down the PTFEtubing must extend. The photo is notan assembly step, just an illustrationof what should be happening insideyour hotend.

The PTFE tube actually runs throughthe Heat Sink and into the HeatBreak. Please ensure the tubing asseated as deep into the hotend aspossible.



Step 16 — 1.75mm Universal (with Bowden)

The tubing should be inserted from the top of the now assembled hotend and pushed as far downinto the hotend as possible.

The PTFE tube actually runs through the Heat Sink and into the Heat Break, please ensure thetubing as seated as deep into the hotend as possible.

The tubing passes right through the heatsink and into the heatbreak. Below is an illustration of howfar down the PTFE tubing must extend. The second photo is not an assembly step, just anillustration of what should be happening inside your hotend.



Step 17 — 3mm Bowden

The PTFE tubing pushes into the topof the heatsink and stops inside theheatsink.



Step 18 — PTFE Recommendations

To release the tubing from theheatsink simply press down on theblack or grey collet in the top ofheatsink while pulling on the tubing.

In 1.75mm Direct configurationsthought should be given to runningthe PTFE right up as close to thehobbed bolt/drive gear as possibleas this provides the easiest loadingand the best performance with allfilament types.

If you do not wish to run PTFE upto the hobbed bolt or drive gearyou can simply cut the tubing offflush with the top of the hotend.

The photo shows a cutaway of howan optimal PTFE configuration mightlook in a Wade's-type extruder. ThePTFE tubing extends right up to thehobbed bolt.



Step 19 — Fan & Duct

Figure out which way up you want the fan duct to sit on the HotEnd given your particular mountingarrangements. We recommend mounting it with the over-hang at the top. If you have it hangingdown however, please keep it clear of the heater block.

Remove the fan duct from the HeatSink.

Screw the screws into the fan such that the ends are just protruding from the other side of the fan.The sticker of the fan must face the heatsink to blow air over the heatsink.



Step 20

Using the 4 Plastfast screws, attach the fan to the fan-duct such that the wires exit the fan in aconvenient location - preferably such that it can be bundled in with the thermistor and heatercartridge cables.

It can sometimes take quite a lot of torque to get the screws all the way in. Be sure to select ascrewdriver that is a good fit or you risk striping the heads of the screws.

Clip the fan duct to the HeatSink.



Step 21

Cable-tie all cables together asadditional strain relief.

It is important to ensure the wires ofthe fan and the red/black section ofthe thermistor cable are cable-tiedand strain relieved in such a waythat they cannot come into contactwith the heater block at any time.

Fan should be wired directly to a 12vpower supply and be constantlyrunning. Do not connect to a "Fan"output of a controller board orsimilar; those are for fans that coolthe printed object, not a hotend fanwhich needs to always be running.

Step 22 — Configure Firmware

Before installing the new hot end on your printer, you'll need to configure the firmware.

Click here to go to the Firmware Configuration page

Continue to the next step once you have completed the firmware update guide for your printer.



https://matterhackers.dozuki.com/Wiki/Firmware_Configuration_for_the_E3D_v6_HotEnd

Step 23 — Final Tightening

When the HotEnd is attempereature, tighten the nozzlewhilst holding the heater block with aspanner.

This will tighten the nozzleagainst the HeatBreak and ensurethat your HotEnd does not leak.

You want to aim for 3Nm of torqueon the hot nozzle - this is aboutas much pressure as you canapply with one finger on a smallspanner.

The nozzle does not need to betorqued down incredibly tightly toform a good seal, when at lowertempreatures the aluminium willcontract and hold the Nozzle andHeatBreak together.



Attribution

Based on E3D's documentation directly from their website, originally released under license CC BY 3.0:E3D-v6 Assembly by users Joshuarowley42, Sanjay, and Smogit: http://wiki.e3d-online.com/wiki/E3D-v6_A...

Pictures were scaled to meet minimum requirements and some verbiage has been altered slightly forclarification.

Usage Guidance

In general the E3D-v6 hotend is highly tolerant of most printing conditions and is designed to accept thevast majority of filaments on the market. There are however some things to be aware of:

Filament must be within acceptable diameter tolerance. For 1.75mm this means 1.70mm - 1.80mm and for3.00mm/2.85mm the filament must be between 2.80mm and 3.05mmExcessively long retractions will cause issues by dragging soft filament into cold areas. E3D-v6 hotends need lessretraction than most hotends. For direct extrusion systems you should use anywhere from 0.5mm-1.0mm, forbowden systems you might want to go up to 2mm. Retraction beyond 2mm is likely to cause issues.The heatsink must be cooled! Heated chambers, fan ducts that restrict flow, and not having the fan running at100% at all times are common causes of issues. The heatsink should be cool to the touch at all times. If yourheatsink is warm to the touch then you have a cooling issue that must be addressed.

More Info

This document was last generated on 2017-06-17 11:01:28 PM.



http://wiki.e3d-online.com/wiki/E3D-v6_Assembly

How to Assemble the E3D All-Metal v6 Hotend · INTRODUCTION Warnings - Please Read! 1. The...

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