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Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums > Toyota Passenger and Sports Car Forums > Corolla and Matrix Forum> 9th Gen Corolla/1st Gen Matrix (2003-2008) > DIY Manual Transmission Fluid Change
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DIY Manual Transmission Fluid Change
This is a guide to help you with your manual transmission fluid change, It doesn'tcover automatic transmissions in which different steps, parts, and tools are
ExageWe have lift-on
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required.
Notes: I am doing this on my XRS with a C60 6-Speed Manual Transmission(same as the Matrix XRS and Celica GT-S). For the C59 5-speed Scroll down tothe 2nd post, it has the link courtesy of JasonA. You can however follow thispost because it's nearly the same on the 5-speed (no 10mm hex key needed).
User Warning: This job has the potential to seriously injure you, and causeextensive damage to your property. Use your personal discression when taking onthis task. If you do not feel comfortable performing the task: DON'T. I am notresponsible for any incidents or accidents to you, or the damage or malfunction ofyour property. I trust you will make safe choices if you choose to perform this task.
I apologize if I lack the pictures you would like. I added words and arrows to help.
Time: 1.5 hour
Parts: Gear oil: API GL-4 or GL-5, 2 metal crush gaskets for fill and drain plugs:Toyota Part #90430-18008.
Tools: Jack and Jack Stands, Rubber Gloves, Flashlight/Trouble light, shop rags, Oilcatch pan, hammer or mallet.(C60 6-Speed: XRS) 24mm shallow socket and ratchet, 10mm hex/allen key.Suction Gun or applicable gear oil injecting method. (C59 5-Speed: CE, LE, S) 24mm socket and ratchet, Suction Gun or applicable gearoil injecting method.
2005 Toyota Corolla Owner's Manual
P284Quote:
MANUAL TRANSAXLE
Oil capacity, L (qt., Imp. qt.):5-speed 1.9 (2.0, 1.7)6-speed 2.3 (2.4, 2.0)
Oil type:Gear oil API GL-4 or GL-5
Recommended viscosity:SAE 75W-90
Toyota recommends manual transmission changes every 64,000KM's (40,000 Miles)or 48 months (4 years).
Lets get started!!!Here's a pic of some of the stuff you'll need
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This is what I used starting from the back: 3 quarts of Redline MT-90 API GL-4 gear oil, 75W-90.Suction Gun (For inserting gear oil into filler).(Left) Ratchet with 24mm shallow socket (deep won't fit; space issue).(Right) Rubber Gloves.(Bottom Left) 10mm Hex/Allen Key.(Bottom Center) 2 Metal Crush Gaskets for drain and fill plugs.
With your car on hard level ground, e-brake set and car in 1st gear, jack the frontup; I used the drivers side jack insert just aft of the front tire, and support thejack with a jackstand rightnext to it. Give the tire (in the air) a good shove tomake sure the car is sturdy on the stand (so the car doesn't fall on you whileyour working underneath).
Pic of the jack insert, below drivers door.
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With the car in the air and safely supported, pop and raise the hood. Now you needto locate your Manual Transmission and its Drain and Fill plugs. My XRS's (C60)transmission was located on the drivers side after the engine.
Here is the (C60) transmission in reference with the 2ZZ-GE engine. You canactually see the filler (AKA check) plug from up top when you open the hood.
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Most manual transmission filler/check plugs are located on the side of thetransmission case rather than the top.
A closer pic of the filler plug. (Note that I had drained and filled the Tranmission atthis point, but I had not cleaned up the mess on the plastic, most of the oil you seewas when I was trying to fill it...)
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Now that you've located the filler plug, you have to find the drain plug. You willhave to look under the car for it on (or near) the bottom of the transmission case.
Picture of the (C60) Transmission drain plug.
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To the right of that pic is the drivers side front suspension control arm.
Good we've found both the drain and the filler plug for our transmission. Before wecrack them it's a good idea to have the metal crush gaskets. If you don't replacethem your transmission might leak...
Put on some rubber gloves and place a catch pan under the transmission fillerplug and take out the filler plug first with a 10mm hex/allen key. They areusually on tight so you might need to give the 10mm key a couple hits with ahammer. (looking at a bolt counter-clockwise is to loosen, clockwise to tighten. attop: Lefty loosy, righty tighty). After you crack the filler plug you should be able totake it out by hand from the top of the car looking down. When you fully removethe plug some oil might come out, wait till it stops, and wipe down the drips on thetransmission case.
Same pic as before.
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Now slide under the car and repostion the catch pan under the transmission drainplug and crack the drain plug with a 24mm shallow socket and ratchet (a deepsocket wouldn't work for me because of clearence, and a wench wouldn't be able toturn it very well because of transmission case obstructions). Take the drain plug outby hand (same as the filler plug). You will notice alot more oil will come out. Pop outfrom under the car and wait till all the oil drains out of the transmission.
Same pic as before.
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Take the metal crush gasket off the old transmission drain plug and put the newmetal crush gasket on. Don't put the new crush gasket over the old crushgasket. With the new crush gasket on the transmission drain plug and no oilcoming out of the transmission drain hole, install the drain plug by hand until youcan't spin it. Switch to tighten on your 24mm socket ratchet and tighten the drainplug until it's nice and tight (the torque for both plugs is 29lb-ft). Double check thatit's good and tight (,don't take it out again or you might need another crushgasket). Wipe down the drips on the transmission case.
Time for the fun part! Now that the transmission drain is installed and tight it'stime to add the new transmission oil. Reposition the catch pan under the filler hole.Also remove the old metal crush gasket from the filler plug and put the new crushgasket on. You'll know when to stop adding oil when it starts to come out of thefiller hole.
What I did:I used a "Suction Gun" but there are other methods. Your going to have to find away to get the new transmission oil from the bottle into the filler hole. I ended upsucking the MT-90 up with the suction gun and transporting it to the filler hole withme standing over the front bumper with the gun vertical and the gun tube making alazy 90 degree turn from vertical to horizontal into the filler hole. It was messy butit worked. I put in 2 quarts until I saw fluid start to come out of the filler hole. Ithen lowered the car with the oil catch pan still underneath. Now that the car waslevel I added the half quart more.
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post #2 of 49
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silver04rollas (10-10-2012)
06-01-2009, 07:57 AM
Install the filler plug (with new crush gasket on) by hand untill you can't turn it.Grab the 10mm Hex/Allen key and tighten the filler plug. Double check that thefiller plug is nice and tight. Wipe down the drips on the transmission case andplastic. Remove the catch pan from under the car. If you're car is still in the air/onstands, lower it. Except for cleaning up; you're done!!! Take it for a test drive, andcheck for leaks after, and in a couple days.
I'm +1 for Redline MT-90, the XRS's transmission was smoother just throwing it in1st gear to get it out of my garage. Sorry for the lack of pictures, If you need moreor certain ones I'll do my best. I'll be happy to answer any questions, or concernsyou have.
Last edited by Exage; 06-06-2009 at 02:57 PM.
Quote
Thanks! Here's the DIY for the C59 5-speed:
5-spd transmission oil change DIY
The Redline MT-90 made a big difference in mine as well. And the car only had 20kmiles when I switched, also. Definitely worth doing! It took me less time than anengine oil change (about 10 minutes).
JasonA'11 Camry Join Date: Jul 2008Location: North CarolinaPosts: 1,370Thanks: 1Thanked 7 Times in 7PostsMentioned: 0 Post(s)
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post #3 of 49
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06-01-2009, 07:02 PM
06-01-2009, 09:22 PM
06-10-2009, 01:10 PM
2011 Toyota Camry (Sandy Beach Metallic)
2005 Acura MDX Touring (Billet Silver Metallic)
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Thread Starter
Awesome, thanks for the link to the C59 5-Speed. It seems like everything is thesame except that you don't need the 10mm key to take off the fill plug and youhave more room for the socket when working with the drain plug. Drain and fillplugs are in the same spot!
Quote
Yeah, they're awfully similar. The MT-90 is just great. The shifter just snicks intogear now. It's so smooth. I did it back in the winter (at Christmas time), and theimprovement was apparent, but it's even better now that it's warm out. It's likefilling the tranny with KY!
2011 Toyota Camry (Sandy Beach Metallic)
2005 Acura MDX Touring (Billet Silver Metallic)
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great post.
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nelsonnedNELSON
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06-10-2009, 06:58 PM
06-02-2010, 07:02 PM
06-03-2010, 01:32 AM
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Thread Starter
Thanks!
MT-90 Update. I've run MT-90 for 120km's (75 miles) now, 3rd gear hardly grindslike it used to when it was cold. She still shifts quicker and with less effort in alltempatures. A definate upgrade, and I highly recommend this product (;Redline MT-90) to anyone who is thinking about putting a synthetic in there manual 1ZZ-FE or2ZZ-GE. Worth the buy!
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Need a little help here folks....I followed the directions to a T for my 06 XRS Corolla6 speed tranny....but only about 1.75 litres of old oil came out with the car on levelground on it's wheels...so...logically I only replaced about 1.75 litres of oil...or Ifilled until oil came out of the filler hole...think this is enough as everywhere I readit calls for 2.3L of oil...but I would have to tilt the car on it's truck to overfill it thismuch....
Advise....
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post #10 of 49
11-18-2010, 08:23 PM
10-07-2012, 10:06 AM
Quote:Originally Posted by Trekie2
Need a little help here folks....I followed the directions to a T for my 06XRS Corolla 6 speed tranny....but only about 1.75 litres of old oil came outwith the car on level ground on it's wheels...so...logically I only replacedabout 1.75 litres of oil...or I filled until oil came out of the filler hole...thinkthis is enough as everywhere I read it calls for 2.3L of oil...but I wouldhave to tilt the car on it's truck to overfill it this much....
Advise....
As long as a bit of fluid is coming out of the check/fill hole then the transmission willhave enough fluid in it.
Quote
Dano5659
For the most part, this post is very helpful; but ........... rather than using thesuction pump to fill the trannnie with oil, I used a 24 inch piece of 1/2 inch rubbertubing (available at Home Depot or Lowes) and a small funnel. After you drain theold gear oil, replace the plug. With the filler plug out, insert the tubing whilestanding in front of the car. Insert the funnel to the other end of the tubing andslowly pour in the gear oil. Make sure there is a drain pan under the filler hole. Youwill need to fill the funnel several times, as the capacity is 2.3 quarts (US). Once thefluid starts to drip out our the filler hole, remove the tubing and replace the fillerplug. The filling proccess takes about 5 - 10 minutes.
P.S. I used Mobil One 75 - 90 and it works great! The shifting is much smoother.
Last edited by dano5659; 11-18-2010 at 08:25 PM. Reason: additional information
Quote
I'm going to use the tube/funnel method to fill. Once the oil is drained and the fillerplug is on would it be best to lower the car before refilling? That way it's on levelground already vs. filling while jacked then adding while down.
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10-07-2012, 03:42 PM
10-09-2012, 08:14 PM
Also, I found a 10mm hex key that has attaches to a ratchet. That sounds like itwould be easier vs. using a hex key to remove the filler plug.
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Thread Starter
Quote:Originally Posted by XtraRevsSurely
Once the oil is drained and the filler plug is on would it be best to lower thecar before refilling? That way it's on level ground already vs. filling whilejacked then adding while down.
Also, I found a 10mm hex key that has attaches to a ratchet. That soundslike it would be easier vs. using a hex key to remove the filler plug.
I'm going to assume you mean drain plug instead of filler. Yes, you can drop it tolevel ground after installing the drain plug to fill.
The reason why I added before dropping was to make sure the crush washer wassealing the drain plug. In the event that it doesn't, you would have to get it in theair again to remove the plug (I've tried removal ground level and I couldn't get thearm space for leverage).
No problems with the funnel fill or the ratchet hex key. What ever is easiest or youhave on hand.
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10-10-2012, 01:07 AM
10-10-2012, 02:12 AM
Will any crush gasket do or is the Toyota Part #90430-18008 one specific for thedrain/fill plugs? What size crush gasket is it if I can pick one up at the hardwarestore?
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Awesome. Great thread!
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It's an 18 mm ID, 24 mm OD aluminum gasket.
Dorman # 095-149 is widely available at auto parts distributors.
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post #15 of 49 10-10-2012, 02:15 AM
http://www.dormanproducts.com/gsearc...&q=90430-18008
Gasket # 2413: http://www.magneticdrainplugs.com/gaskets.htm
Drain and fill plugs are torqued to 29 ft-lbs... A 15/16" (23.8125 mm) socket worksas well.
I stuck a strong neodimium magnet to the head of my drain plug, by the way. Itcollects a fair amount of fine metal shavings bewteen 40,000 mile changes... AmsoilMTG is also excellent in the manual transaxle.
http://www.woodsbrosracing.com/amsoil/mtg.htm
Last edited by invader; 10-10-2012 at 02:50 AM.
Quote
Thread Starter
Quote:Originally Posted by XtraRevsSurely
Will any crush gasket do or is the Toyota Part #90430-18008 one specificfor the drain/fill plugs? What size crush gasket is it if I can pick one up atthe hardware store?
I don't know if the hardware store carries them.
Unlike a normal washer they are a metal gasket that deforms to seal between thetransmission housing and fill/drain plug when you torque them in.
They are made of much softer metal (aluminum), and these don't have a rubbergasket seal like the (OEM) oil pan drain-plug washer.
You can get away with re-using the same washer a couple times. Every time you re-torque down the plug you run a greater risk of the used washer not sealing,because of previous deformation. This last time I didn't replace the one on the drainplug because I couldn't get it off (deformed around threads, I torqued it toomuch)...
In honesty, I went and checked my records and the 2 washers from the dealer ranjust under $5 tax included.
Last edited by Exage; 10-10-2012 at 02:16 AM.
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