Hawaii by Cruise Ship – An 18 Day Journey

There was a certain sameness as we boarded the M/S Oosterdam. And why not. We had been on this

Holland-American Line ship before, in Alaska. As we had been on several sister ships; the Noordam twice

– on a trans-Pacific voyage and in Alaska, and on the Zuiderdam on a trans-Atlantic – Baltic – Nordic –

Scotland trip, and the Nieuw Amsterdam to Vancouver, and on two smaller HAL ships.

It’s an easy half-hour ride to the B Street Terminal at San Diego Bay, one big reason for preferring to sail

on HAL. Other reasons include the size of the ships (the Vista class is 1950-2000 passengers and the

smaller ships carry about 1350), the virtual absence of children (these are like floating senior

residences), and the availability of activities that we like (especially classical ensemble concerts).

Sameness does not always predicate exact repetiveness. Boarding, for instance, involves lining up to go

through security, lining up to check in and get computerized room keys, and sitting for just about ever

waiting for the disembarking passengers to clear the ship and the crew to prepare for the new 2000.

This should take about 60-90 minutes. But today there was a hitch. The all-important, multi-purpose

room keys were flawed. These key-cards not only open the cabin doors, they are used to identify and

record passengers as they move on or off the ship, and they are pseudo credit cards to pay for drinks,

premium meals, wine packages, other purchases and services on the ship. Wallets are left in the cabin

safe. Today, the key cards could not be read by the electronic card reader as the 2000 of us came on

board, necessitating each one to be noted on a log manually. Add about an hour for today’s boarding.

We usually go to the Lido for lunch upon boarding. The Lido is the humongous buffet dining area at the

9th level that is open most of the day for casual dining. Today, we choose to lunch at the quieter and

more formal main dining room. But the MDR is scheduled to close entry at 1:30 and as we arrived at

1:31, they shut the door in our faces. Disregarding the fact that most of the passengers were still trying

to get on board, and the dining room was almost empty (with piles of unused meals in the kitchen),

there seemed to be a total lack of communication and coordination between the various departments

of the ship. As about a dozen newly boarded passengers massed at the dining room doors, it took a very

militant protest to get the MDR manager to reconsider and let a few of us in. We eventually had a nice,

quiet meal and enjoyed the company of another couple (from NY) that we met at the door.

Crossing to Hawaii Sail-away was scheduled for 5 PM and we wandered up the open deck at the Lido level to sip on a

cocktail and enjoy the sail out of the harbor past Point Loma and out into the Pacific for a six-day cruise

to Hilo, on the Big Island. As the sun dropped down behind Coronado Island, the sky became a pinkish &

mauve tapestry and we waited for the now familiar movement of the ship easing away from the dock.

But this was not to be. For today, there was a hitch. Seems that one of the 16 life boats (also used as

tenders) had a malfunction that had to be repaired. Departure was delayed by a bit over two hours. Not

a big issue, since the time could be made up over the six days at sea. However sailing out of the bay at a

very dark 7:30 is not the same as twilight at 5:00. And we had other things to do – like dinner and a

concert -- two of our favorite activities.

Dinner went well. Got in at 5:15, when the dining room opened and shared dinner with four other

people. Decent food and conversation, and the usual dragged out service. We had dinner as early as

possible because we wanted to make the 7 PM concert at the Lincoln Center Stage. The classical

concerts have been a big attraction for us (as well as an occasional big disappointment). The LCS concept

is new and this was our first chance to experience it. Before this, HAL offered “Adagio”, their name for a

piano/violin duo. Some were darn good. A few pairs were damn awful. They also had a preference for

Yamaha grand pianos. All of these tend to be excessively loud and bright, better suited for a large

concert hall than an intimate lounge. Occasionally, the piano would be in bad shape, making

inconsistent and superfluous sounds.

Tonight would be a most pleasant surprise. The Explorer’s lounge had been transformed into a more

formal, but still intimate theater, seating about 70. There was a stage upon which regally sat a shiny new

Steinway grand. Instead of a single music stand, the stage held four – soon to be employed by a full

string quartet. OMG! This absolutely blew my mind. The music would be performed in various

combinations such as piano/violin, piano/cello, piano trio, string quartet, and piano quintet. And they

were good. Damn good. And so was the Steinway, with pure, bell-like notes and a full range of dynamics.

This alone made the voyage worthwhile.

We enjoyed a Dvorak Piano Quintet at 7 PM and returned at 9 PM for another 45 minutes of varied

selections and musician combinations. It was as good as it gets.

The seas have been fairly kind. The crossing to Hawaii has been known to be testy. So far there are

noticeable swells, contributing to a mild rocking and swaying. Nothing violent. More like a baby’s cradle.

I took one motion pill at sail-away and nothing since.

Slept like a baby, which is nice since I have been having sleep issues. But it seems that I am more at

peace (mindfully) on the cruises and don’t have the problems that I have at home. Breakfast at the Lido

on Sunday was pleasant and filling, with infinite choices. Later, I took several walking laps on the

Promenade, before heading up to the Crow’s Nest for a 10 AM “Meet & Greet”. This is a gathering of

people who had registered with a “Roll Call” for this particular cruise on Cruise Critic (website) and had

communicated with each other on that site. I am renting cars at Hilo, Kona, and Kauai and found

another couple to share two of these via the web. I was able to meet Tim at the M&G and further

discuss our touring. When I returned to our cabin about 11 AM, Judy was relaxing on the balcony, and I

was surprised to see the sun shining on her. Our cabin is on the starboard (right) side and since we were

headed in a WSW direction, the sun should be on the port side. Seems that I missed the captain’s

announcement that a crew member was very ill and that the Coast Guard was sending a chopper to

evacuate him. The ship had turned around and backtracked about 50 miles to help shorten the time. My

lunch on the rear deck offered a front row seat to the chopper off our port bow. This was delay number

three in the first 24 hours. We were now about five hours behind schedule, which would be easily made

up over the next five days. That is, assuming that there are no additional calamities.

We were falling into our “at sea” routine. Breakfast at the Lido, followed by some exercise (Judy & I

walked seven laps -- 2.7 miles -- together) and some reading or writing, followed by lunch at the Lido

(inside on Monday since the full cloud cover left the rear deck less attractive), then a 2 PM concert

(which takes place only on sea days). There were many other activities on the ship including ukulele

lesions, Microsoft Windows workshops, touring previews and lectures. Most of the time we were

challenged to make decisions on what to pass up. We did make it a point to leave time for reading and

writing.

Picking up now four days into the trip (Wednesday), things continue as previously described. No more

calamities, thank goodness. Mostly eating, high-energy walking, three concerts a day, did I mention

eating? Catching some talks on places that we are scheduled to visit. Heard a comedian in the main

entertainment theater. He started out so poorly, that we lowered our expectations (sort of a Rodney

Dangerfield type). So when he started to be a bit funny, he got a big laugh. His favorite line (when a joke

went flat) was “come on people – work with me.”

The musicians continue to be astounding. Their playing, high-energy, broad music selection, and

personalities, makes for a very enjoyable experience. They are also very personable and we are able to

connect with them.

We’ve met some interesting people and had some interesting dialogues. And there is time to just sit

back and relax. But not much. Always something to do if we want to.

In two days, we reach Hilo, on the Big Island. We have a rental car reserved and are planning on visiting

some waterfalls and scenic areas. We did the Volcanic Park last year. We’ll stick to the Eastern side of

the island, as we will be back a few days later to visit the Kona (West) side.

Land Ho – Hilo – The Big Island We glided into Hilo as planned and it was a visual delight to feast upon the sight of green hillsides and a

couple of towering mountains. Our new friends from New York, Ken & Lillian, decided to join us for our

car rental. We picked up a Jeep Compass at the nearby airport and took off for a few scenic attractions.

All four of us were united in preferring areas of scenic, nature or historic interest, but not museums and

definitely not shopping. We headed to Rainbow

Falls, where the sun position was proper to support

a subdued rainbow. Then on to the Tropical

Botanical Gardens. This was a real treat. The area

was huge, extending down to the ocean and filled

with flora. Thousands of magnificent specimens,

growing in a natural habitat. Considerable color,

varying shapes, and lush growth.

After a quick lunch we made it to Akaka Falls, a major feature on the island. There is a paved walk, After

After a quick lunch we made it to Akaka Falls, a

major feature on the island. There is a paved

trail through dense forest, to reach the falls less

than a mile away (to the overlook). The falls

were a bit off in the distance, towering 400

feet. The time went quickly and before we

knew it we were due back at the ship. Lovely

day and good company.

Maui Next was Lahaina, in Maui. This was one of two

“tender” ports. There is no ship pier and we use

the lifeboats to transfer some 2000 passengers

to shore. This takes a bit of time and there

always seems to be something slowing things

up. But we did not have big plans for the day

and we took the wait in stride. We had been in

Lahaina for a day last year, and for a week

about 7 years ago. So after a brief look to replenish some inexpensive tee shirts and caps, we took a

local bus 4 miles to Kaanapali Beach. We did lunch and then a couple hours on the beach. The beach

entry to the water was a bit steep and it was a fight to get out of the water without getting down on all

fours and having a wave push you home. The force of the waves was very strong – enough so as to carry

hand grenade-sized stones and chunks of lava and hurl them against your feet and ankles. The water

was just right temperature-wise.

Oahu Now onto Honolulu for an overnight stop. Ken &

Lily had a rental car and we decided to join them. I

laid out a route for a trip to the North Shore and

we drove up to some of the areas that are famous

for the strongest surf in the U.S. Also in the area is

the Waimea Valley Preserve, a private park offering

a more formal display of native flora and a

demonstration village of earlier native cultures. The

two-mile pathway ended at a water fall and

swimming hole. The parking lot and entrance area

was overrun by roosters and hens and one

handsome peacock that strutted around the main

patio area.

After another nice day, we decided to keep the car for our second day on Oahu and I laid out a loop A

Our need to satisfy our hunger had us backtrack 5 miles to a

recommended eatery called Haleiwa Joe’s, adjoining the

Haleiwa Harbor. This was an upscale restaurant with

excellent fresh fish selections – kind of surprising placement

in a simple little fishing village (turned artist colony). There

was a big, international surfing event taking place at Sunset

Beach. But by the

time we got back

there, the surfing

action had ended.

We were able to

see the crashing

waves, but no

surfers.

After experiencing

another nice day,

we decided to

keep the car for a second day on Oahu and I laid out a

loop route that took in the complete group of

attractions listed in one of HAL’s regular bus tours,

including Koko Crater & this blowhole.

Everything we saw seemed to be supersized. The

craters and cliffs were impressive. Jagged and

chiseled mountains shot straight up to the sky. We

drove along the base of one range of mountains and

then turned directly toward them. The road angled up and then tunneled right through. A very popular

lookout point is located near the tunnel exit,

affording excellent views of the lands below

and out to sea.

The cliffs and pointed mountain peaks were

very impressive, especially when we were

driving on the road below and looking up. From

the Pali Lookout, we could see a major segment

of the east coast of Oahu, including the roads

that we traveled on when we were admiring the

cliffs on our approach.

The Pali Highway took us back into Honolulu and

the scene quickly changed from these huge

green cliffs and mountains to huge skyscrapers

and a busy, six-lane limited-access highway. We

had time to drive over to Manoa Falls and this

turned out to be an experience. Turning north off of the interstate we drove through the Honolulu

suburbs and a cluster of homes in a nice enclave before the road narrowed to a very narrow two lanes

and entered a forested area. We were less than two miles from the skyscrapers and we were in a lush

rain forest. We parked at a trail head where the sign said that the falls were 0.8 miles away and it was a

moderate hike.

We started out on a fairly level dirt road, which crossed a bridge and turned to a walking path. Then

going deeper into the woods, the forests looked like they were straight out of Jurassic Park (and were

actually used for filming some scenes in that movie). Soon we were heading up a grade and the smooth,

dry path became more uneven and a bit

steeper. The dirt path turned to gravel

and rocks and the trail had rough steps

to deal with the elevation change, which

was now more of a challenge. After

what seemed like a mile (it was not) the

trail turned muddy and the steps were

replaced with stretching out from rock

to rock. I could see the stream on my

right and I could hear the water, but no

falls in sight. After a while, and after lots

of muddy rock jumping, the falls came

into view. My cell phone told me that I

had walked 1.2 miles – of tough trail.

Coming back was a real challenge. We had to rock hop

the steep decline with the rocks covered with a coating

of damp mud. Luckily, Ken, who had managed the trek

to the falls behind me, had two hiking poles and I talked

him into borrowing one. They were a life saver. I had

assumed that the ladies had turned back, but just after

we started our return, there was Judy bravely trudging

up the hardest part of the trail. Lily, who has a bad knee,

had turned back much earlier. Judy had found a branch

that served as a rudimentary hiking stick. I suggested

that she not attempt the final stretch to the falls

because of the danger of slipping and falling on the way

down. I gave her Ken’s good hiking stick and I used the

branch and we all made it down without incident. Not

something that we expected after reading about the

falls and seeing the sign that said “moderate”. Those

Hawaiians must be made of tough stuff. Since we

managed to avoid injury, we were satisfied that we had

a good workout and adventure.

It was

now

time to return the car and get back to the ship. The

Enterprise lot was just a few blocks from the ship and

they also provide a shuttle service. We found our way

to a Costco gas station, which was at least 25 cents

less per gallon than all the other stations. Then we

dropped the ladies off at the pier and returned the

Jeep. Ken grabbed the shuttle back while I went

across the street to the Starbucks (with my

computer) and caught up with my e-mail. I then

started walking the 0.4 mile back to the ship. As I

turned the last corner into the pier, I realized that I

did not have my cell phone. I had used it while

getting back from the gas station and I assumed that

it was in the Jeep. Time was now getting to be critical

because Enterprise was about to close and the ship

was due to sail in about an hour. So I rushed back to

the car place, arriving out of breath. They had moved

the Jeep upstairs to the 8th level parking garage and

they directed a very tired me to the other end of the

building where the elevators took me up to their cars.

I couldn’t remember the plate numbers and there were three white Jeeps up there. The attendant gave

me the keys to all of them. I checked the first one. No phone. I checked the second one. There it was

under the passenger seat. Whew! I dragged myself downstairs and caught a ride back to the ship.

I had managed to avoid injuring myself on the trail and a second potential calamity with the cell phone.

Now it was time for a nice shower, a glass of wine, a well-earned dinner, and some soothing classical

music. When I planned the trip, I had no idea what I was going to do on Oahu. Ends up that we had two

full days of interesting stuff.

Return to the Big Island – Kona Our itinerary took us back to the Big Island, this

time on the West side (Kona means west). This is

a nice, quiet resort area with most of the action

located near the village on Kailua. With our rental

car, we were able to have a relaxing tour of a few

interesting landmarks. Tim & Carol, from Port

Washington, NY, joined us this day (and the next

in Kauai). I hooked up with Tim on the Cruise

Critic website when they agreed to fill my offer to

share the car. From some preliminary

commentary via e-mail we learned that we had

some common interests and touring preferences. It

proved to be a great pairing and there was always

complete agreement on schedule and stops.

We tendered to shore and Enterprise picked us up

at the huge Banyon tree, near the pier. The

highways took us about 25 miles south, travelling

on a broad slope gradually climbing a few thousand

feet and then dropping back down closer to the

ocean. A blue-green sea was constantly in our view

to the right.

We stopped at The Painted Church,

a small, wooden Catholic church

(St. Benedict’s), plain on the

outside, but with meticulous

frescos, painted by the priest, on

the inside. We just beat the tour

busses as the hoards arrived as we

were leaving. Just a few minutes

down the road was the Pu’uhonua

O Honaunau National Historical site, featuring

reconstructions and exhibits of remains of a historic

native village. The setting was idyllic and it was

pleasant to just walk around. The vivid blue water

offered views of fish and sea turtles.

Kona coffee is a big thing here. The coffee is prized

(and priced) as a premium brew and there are coffee

farms and tours all over. We chose Greenwell Farms

which had several things going for it. It was family-

owned, since 1850. It did not invite the big tour

busses, and it did not charge. It was a

good tour with lots to learn about

growing, harvesting, and processing

coffee. We tasted some of their brews

and chose not to spring for their $30/#

beans.

Our tour guide recommended the Coffee

Shack, overlooking the ocean, for a lunch

stop. The place didn’t look like much

(typical for laid-back Hawaii) but their

sandwiches were excellent. We then

headed back to town but were too late for the last tour

of the Kona Brewing Co. So we headed back to the

ship.

Kauai On the next day, Tim & Carol joined us again and the

plan was to drive across the island and up into Waimea

Canyon. An Enterprise van was waiting on the pier and

we hailed it down as it was leaving. What I hadn’t

realized was there were two Enterprise locations and

this van took us to the airport location where the price

was much higher. Rather than send us back to the

other location, they offered to honor our reservation

and price. The planned drive runs along the South

shore, where there is only one through road and then turns North and climbs significantly, reaching

almost 5200 feet elevation where it terminates at an overlook. During this ride of a thousand curves (so

it seemed) we passed several view areas that looked down into a massive canyon. These we would stop

at on the way back.

The Pu’u O Kila overlook at the end of

the road offered a view down to the

ocean, a full mile below, of the area

called Napali Coast. It cannot be

reached from land (except for a few

trails). But this is also known as the

rainiest point on earth and at the

moment that we arrived, the clouds

moved in, obscuring everything over

50 feet away. We stood there in the

light but driving rain, knowing that

there was something spectacular to

see, but seeing only a blank gray

screen in front of us. For a

moment, the fog lightens up

and we squint to where we

see an area of lighter gray

(almost white). Maybe the

ocean – but then back to full

gray. Out patience is

eventually rewarded as the

whitish area reappears and

then clears enough to see a

fully detailed view of beach,

surrounded by areas of still

fog-shrouded cliffs. Back to

full gray again and then the

fog lifted enough to make

out the entire view of this part of the

Napali coast. We had hoped for

more, but were satisfied to have

seen and recorded this iconic scene.

We reversed course and drove down

to another overlook (Kalalau) with

similar results. With a short break in

the fog I captured this view (above)

which is similar to the ones we see in

the tour books.

Driving back down the road, the

skies progressively lightened and by

the time we reached the

northernmost overlook of Waimea

Canyon, the view was clear.

While the first views of the canyon

were impressive, they paled

compared to those yet to come. A

bit further down the road there was

an informal pullover area that gave

us our first view of an added

attraction in the canyon. There was

a major waterfall flowing into the

canyon from one side. We had to wait for another viewpoint to see the full extent of this water feature.

We got our wish further down the road at the Waimea Canyon Lookout. Now we could see that there

were two primary levels of this waterfall and it covered the entire drop from the height of land to the

valley floor.

At yet one more stop, the Canyon Overlook, we were able to see the full expanse of Waimea Canyon,

with the falls way off in the distance. Not to be confused with the grandeur of the Grand Canyon of

Arizona, this grand canyon of Hawaii was a beauty.

Driving up the road earlier in the day, we passed an unusual area of deep red soil with a stream of water

running through it. We stopped on the way back to

take a closer look, and a photo.

We completed our drive back down to the sea and

came to the small village of Waimea. There was a

line on small restaurants (nothing more than shacks)

lining one side of the road and we stopped for

lunch. The Shrimp Station caught our attention and

the food was exceptionally good and nicely priced.

The restroom received a rating of “not on your life.”

And the roosters and hens that were rooming all

over the islands had found nirvana at the trash bins

next to our table.

It was now 2:30 and we had 2 ½ hours to return our

rental car and board the ship. The ship was required

to sail at 5:30 because of nighttime harbor

restrictions and final boarding was at 5 PM. But we

had no fear of covering the 23 miles remaining. That

is until we covered the first 12 miles and came to a

full stop in a non-moving line of traffic. Just at that

point, my Google maps GPS reported a big traffic

backup and suggested an alternate route that would

add about 4 miles, but would save time. So we

followed this for about 5 miles, where the road

would turn back toward our destination. But this

road was blocked by three police cars and we were rudely instructed to retrace our route back to the

blockage (due to an accident that required the replacement of downed power lines). All other roads

headed to the sea. I found one back road that shortened the return route a bit but we soon reached the

one and only main road with its virtually non-moving stream of cars. By now, it was moving on toward

4:00 and the remaining 10 miles looked as if it would take an eternity, or longer. Tim reached the HAL

port agent who said that the cruise people knew about the traffic issue, but that the ship would have to

leave by 5:30 or stay overnight. We called the rental agency and asked if we could take the car to the

pier and they could get it there. No. Against their policy. Now I was panicking. I found two short

stretches where there was a truck lane but everyone was courteous and stayed in a single line. Except

for me. I switched on my flashers and passed the two lines of stopped cars. We finally reached the end

of the blockage and were less than two miles from Enterprise. But my cell phone battery had died by

now and that’s where I had recorded where to return the car. More panic. Somehow, my trusty sense of

direction clicked in and I found the right turns and streets and drove into the agency at 4:35. They got us

down to the pier at 4:45 and we were among the last half-dozen to board. What an adventure. If I had

not used the truck lane and found my way through the streets of town, we would have surely missed

the ship.

The Home Lap On Friday, December 15th, we were on our 2nd of 5 ½ days at sea, heading for an afternoon stop at

Ensenada, Mexico before docking in SD. This diversion from San Diego was required to get around an

archaic law (the Jones Act) that prevents foreign-flagged ships (cargo or pleasure) from trips between

two U. S. ports without a stop at a foreign port. (The law is so resolute that a special exception was

required to enable a non U.S. cargo ship from delivering emergency supplies from the mainland to

Puerto Rico after the hurricane.)

The gloomy wake-up view (heavy clouds made for a dark sky at 7:30) coupled with a roiling sea, did not

bode well for this day. Yet, it turned out to be most satisfying. After a leisurely and filling breakfast, I

relaxed at the table with my computer, working on my trip journal and editing photos. Then it was off to

the Microsoft Digital Workshop for a demonstration of the latest version of Windows OneNote.

On sea days, we have been heading up to a quiet corner on the Lido by 11 AM and staking out a table

with a view of the water. We usually work with our computers or do reading (Judy’s working on her

writing research) for 60-90 minutes and then grab some lunch there. I spent some of the time making

notes for a new political column.

In mid-afternoon, the sun broke through the clouds and our starboard (south-facing) veranda became a

lovely spot to catch some intermittent rays. Stretching out on one of our two chaises, I finally got a

chance to read one of the books that I had downloaded onto my tablet. The sea was still providing an

active view, complete with sound effects.

The evening would provide a bevy of delights and unusual activities. I exchanged my comfort sweats for

something a bit dressier and we headed down to a room that was set up for Chanukah services. Tonight,

they were also ushering in the Sabbath and we decided to attend (first such observance in decades). The

ship provided not only the room, but the necessary accoutrements. There were prayer books,

yarmulkes, ritual wine (Kosher Baron Herzog), challa, gifilte fish, and potato latkes (with apple sauce &

sour cream). A passenger led the brief service with readings and singing.

We had made arrangements for dinner at the Pinnacle Grill, a specialty restaurant, but had to wait until

7:45. So we made the rounds of the various entertainment venues. The B.B. King club had some nice

R&B going on. We usually bypassed this venue because of excess volume. But tonight it was very

listenable. When they stopped for a break, we moved on to the Billboard Onboard (a replacement for

the Piano Bar that we usually liked). The new setup was in a larger space and featured two pianos (and

two pianists). The guy was okay. But the female singer fit today’s model of a high-pitched whiner. She

was about as enjoyable as a running garbage disposer. Our favorite venue, the Lincoln Center Stage was

unfortunately dark tonight, so we moved on to our planned dinner a bit early and was immediately

seated.

Dinner at the Pinnacle Grill (a $35 pp up-charge) is about like going to Ruth’s Chris Steak House. Located

alongside the 2nd level atrium, it is elegant in every way. After a complimentary treat (lobster flan), I

feasted on a bowl of lobster bisque, followed by a perfectly grilled 10 oz filet mignon. Washed down by

an elegant bottle of Malbec (an Argentina red), we completed the feast with a chocolate volcano cake

and a pressed coffee. Every bite and sip was perfect. Having this meal (excluding the wine) as a gift from

HAL, made it even better.

We were approaching our usual bedtime as we exited the restaurant, but there was no way that we

were going to take our full tummies to bed. So we headed over to the Mainstage (the three-tier, huge

entertainment auditorium used for the nightly shows. Shows are usually at 8 PM and repeated at 10 PM,

which we were now approaching. We usually pass these by. The performer tonight was Dale Kristien

who performed for many years as Christine in The Phantom of the Opera – a show I love. She sang

several of the songs from the show and a few others and she was terrific. Still hitting the high notes

although she had put on a few years since she first starred in the show.

What a perfect day! Fully satisfied and noticeably overstuffed, we headed up to the cabin hit the sack.

Saturday, I finally got up the energy to do a treadmill workout in the fitness center. It was too windy and

bouncy on the promenade. Still needed to hold on inside, especially since the gym was in the bow of the

ship and more reactive to the waves. I’m actually getting a bit tired of eating. It’s hard to resist the food

and it seems as if it’s always meal time. I’m feeling tired and overstuffed most of the time.

Without the port stops, the routine is filled with meals, music at Lincoln Center Stage (three 45-minute

concerts each day), reading, writing, and an occasional workout. We’ve been getting up a bit later and

we lost an hour on clock changes twice. On Monday, our last full sea day, both of us had a good walking

workout (Judy on the promenade and me on the treadmill). We had just enough time to shower before

grabbing a nice lunch in the Lido and getting down to the concert room in time to get a seat for an all

Bach recital at 2 PM. The sun was nice for lounging on the veranda this afternoon. I’m about 85%

through the book that I started on Friday and will likely finish it by the time we dock.

There is usually a conflict between dining and the music in the evening. The quintet performs at 7 PM

and 9 PM. Dinner in the main dining room starts at 5:15 PM and runs up to 9 PM. We have preferred the

early start because we need time to digest the food and we have been going to bed just after 10 PM. But

the service in the MDR tends to drag out and we are most likely to miss the 7 PM concert if we do dinner

first. The options are to eat at the Lido (buffet) which is quicker or in the MDR at 7:45 PM, after the

concert. Tonight was the last formal night and there is surf & turf on the menu. We were both a bit full

from lunch so we opted for later dining and listening to the Brahms Quintet first.

The 18 days seemed just about right this time. We got to do just about everything on our list – perhaps a

bit more than planned. Lots of good meals, but toward the end it had been enough. We don’t really

need to have two appetizers, a main and a desert at every meal. But it’s hard to turn down. I’ll be happy

to get back to some chicken salads and some sandwiches, and my usual slice of pizza with a salad on

Sundays in front of the TV. Bingeing on ice cream and bacon daily is reserved for cruises. No more now

until March (our Panama Canal trip). Feasting on good music was fabulous. But this too was getting to

the point of saturation. But everything mixed together, both on the ship and while touring, was fulfilling

and reasonably relaxing (even if busy). Close to a perfect vacation.

Here are a few photos that I took on my cell phone. The Quintet, Dinner at Lido, Lunch at Shrimp Station

in Kauai and a panoramic view from the Overlook in Oahu.