'Handmade' for Sustainable Fashion Futures: Planet | People | Profit

“HANDMADE” for SUSTAINABLE FASHION FUTURES

Dr. Darlie Koshy MBA, Ph.D. (IIT, Delhi)

Director General & CEO Institute of Apparel Management (IAM) & Apparel Training & Design Centre (ATDC)

Former Director, National Institute of Design (NID) Ahmedabad (2000-2009)

www.darliekoshy.com

Planet | People | Profit

Presentation to Sri Lanka Design Festival 2012

The Pearl of the Indian Ocean Arabs referred to it as Serendib

(the origin of the word "serendipity").

Serendib: Serendipity!

The Ramayana attributes the building of the bridge to Rama in verse 2-22-76, naming it as Setubandhanam, a name that persists until today.

-source: wikipedia

“I can see it to this day, that radiant panorama, that wilderness of rich

color, that incomparable dissolving-view of harmonious tints, and lithe half-covered forms, and beautiful

brown faces, and gracious and graceful gestures and attitudes and movements, free unstudied, barren

of stiffness and restraint.” -Mark Twain, Following the Equator, 1990

© Dr. Darlie Koshy 2012

Design Connects Nature, Culture, Future

“Crafts form the core of a culture.”

Immense wealth of Tacit Knowledge

Crafts use wide range of inherent skills & local technologies

Handicrafts Innovations of Yesterday & foundation for future

Crafts define Cultural Moorings & Economic Sustenance

Crafts reflect Creativity | Quest for self-expression | Enduring beauty


Kutch Embroidery, India

Biralu- Lace Craft, Sri Lanka

Crafts as Foundation of “Designing for People”

Crafts should become part of essential life skills to have a generation of “Hands On, Minds On” people.

“Crafts provide differential advantage” to design by providing “ deeper sense and sensitivity” through encoded values and aesthetics.

Crafts provide a connection to the “heart” and “emotions - feelings”.

Crafts being tangible provide a sense of continuity and roots in a rapidly dematerializing world thus bridging the ‘physical’ with the ‘digital’.

Modern Adaptation of Indian Charpoy in Stainless steel - cross over from functional

design to art- by Alex Davis


Creative heritage and manufacturing prowess can raise their level to

achieve sustainable competitiveness through proactive policies and

leadership.

It is necessary to encompass new approaches while leveraging core

strengths to achieve a higher level of performance but with principles embedded in “sustainable and

responsible competitiveness” which can usher in “premium” positon for

Sustainable Fashions.

Future is in Sustainable Fashions

Responsible Competitiveness © Dr. Darlie Koshy 2012

‘A RAY OF LIGHT’ A conscious & powerful effort of an Indian Fashion Designer Rahul Mishra in

creating awareness and bringing the Kerala’s traditional “Balarampuram” sarees & fabrics to the center stage of fashion to empower weavers of rural Kerala.

Going Glocal…

Courtesy-Rahul Mishra, Indian Fashion Designer

© Rahul Mishra, 2012


Crafts interpret emotions & help to create new aesthetics for the contemporary customer …

Crafts form the best argument for Sustainability

SALVATORE FERRAGAMO for Benarasi Brocade

PETER PILOTTO

for Orissa Ikat

GUCCI for

Gujarati Patola

© Vogue India, Oct-2012


The ‘owls’ made famous from Harry Potter and various kind of birds and

other species are “Hand-made” in India through appliqué on the

cushions etc.

Crafts as Fountainhead of design innovations

Mumbai’s luxury linen store fuses Indian crafts with international

sensibilities.

Home Fashions


New Idiom of Luxury

“On many fronts, the Creative Class Life Style comes down to a passionate

quest for Experience *”

“And the kinds of experiences they crave

reflect and reinforce their identities as

Creative People” Richard Florida

The Rise of the Creative Class

BURBERRY for Maheshwari Silk -Vogue, Project Renaissance

Custom-made Lamborghini

*Crafts provide unique experiences & connect to vivid memories © Vogue India, Oct-2012


DNA for Design: Geographical Indications in Crafts

In India the ‘Patola’ sarees from Patan,

Gujarat or Pochampally from Andhra

Pradesh, or locks from Aligarh Uttar Pradesh or knives of Anjar Gujarat are

excellent examples of craft with

distinct uniqueness or traditional reputation based

upon the production characteristics peculiar to the geographical locations.


Chanderi Saree (Madhya Pradesh) Bidriware (Karnataka)

Aranmula Kannadi (Kerala) Channapatna toys & dolls (Karnataka)

Protecting Local Culture & Design through Geographical Indications…

• Most creations are Intangible or have

considerable intangible elements

• The innovators / designers who

create the new tools and techniques

need to protect their IPR

• IPR helps to safeguard investments

in product development, process &

marketing

• Imagination, Innovation, Ideas,

Knowledge, Skills are tenets of the

economy

Protect to Profit

IPR in the Creative Economy

Leading fashion designer Ritu Kumar sued a defendant for commercially distributing her fabric designs like ‘Kulah’, ‘Ambi Bandhini’

and ‘Sangmarmar’.


Design for Everyone, Everywhere

“Design is about connecting culture to future and business to customer” Blue Pottery Craft, Jaipur Wrought Iron Craft, Bastar, MP


• Connecting Culture to emotions

• Brands for fashion, lifestyle & luxury

• Sustaining Competitiveness

Evolving Crafts for Sustainable Fashion Futures


Thank You

Dr. Darlie Koshy DG & CEO-IAM & ATDC

Website: www.darliekoshy.com Email: [email protected]

“ As for the future, your task is not to foresee but to enable it”

Antoine de Saint

'Handmade' for Sustainable Fashion Futures: Planet | People | Profit

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