GORDONRAMSAY’SULTIMATEHOMECOOKING

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CONTENTS

COVER

TITLEPAGE

COPYRIGHT

INTRODUCTION

BREAKFASTANDBRUNCHHome-madegranola

QuickBirchermuesli

Spicedbakedporridge

Tangyfruitsalad

Crispyfilowithhoneyedyoghurt

Cinnamoneggybreadwithquickstewedapple

EggsBenedictwithcrispyParmaham

Boiledeggswithanchovysoldiers

Spicedeggandspinachbreakfastwrap

Fennelsausagefrittata

Merguez-sausage-and-Fontina-stuffedcroissants

Smokedhaddockandspinachbakedeggs

Home-madebakedbeanswithpotatocakes

Hashbrownbakedeggswithcandiedbacon

BakedspicyMexicaneggs

SOUPS,BREADSANDSANDWICHES

Creamytomatosoupwithsundriedtomatopesto

Gazpacho

SpicedMexicansoup

Home-madetortillachipswithpicodegallodip

Smokybacon,sweetcornandpotatosoup

American-stylecheesebiscuits

Steamedmusselswithcherrytomatoesandpancetta

Saffronflatbreads

Spicyclamnoodles

Welshrarebit

Avocadoandblacksesamesprinkleonsourdough

Pear,goat’scheeseandwalnuttartine

Prawntostada

Courgetteandricottabruschette

PanBagnat

Ploughman’ssalad

Beerbread

Chipbutty

SALADFORLUNCHAnchovydipwithcrudités

Burratawithquickbalsamicfigjamandcrostini

BigCaesarsalad

Halloumi,courgetteandherbcakes

Slow-roastedtomatoandwatercresssalad

Orzopastasalad

Grilledsardineswithgremolata

TunaNiçoisesalad

Carrot,cuminandorangesalad

Mackerelcevichewithshavedfennelandgrapefruit

Quinoasalad

Feta,watermelon,cucumberandmintsalad

Griddledchickenthighswithchickpeas,piquillopeppersandlemonydressing

Prawnandcucumbersaladwithspicyyoghurtdressing

Scotcheggs

Beetroot,corianderseedandorange-curedsalmonwithappleandceleriacsalad

Teriyakisalmon

Sobanoodlesalad

AFTERNOONPICK-ME-UPSLemonandpoppyseedmadeleines

Pearandcrunchygranolamuffins

Peanutbutterandjamcookies

DulcedeLechebiscuits

Cranberry,marshmallowandpeanutchocolatefridgecake

Lemonandpistachiobaklava

Chocolateandmintcaramelcake

Saltedcaramelpopcorn

KITCHENSUPPERSGriddledpolentawithroastedvinetomatoesandgoat’scurd

BloodyMarylinguine

Lambkoftaswithmintandyoghurtdressing

BeetroothoumouswithZa’atarsprinkle

Buttermilk-friedchicken

Quicksweetpickledcelery

Home-madefishfingers

Sausageandcaramelisedredonionhotpot

Potatoandbeetrootgratin

Shepherd’spiewithcheesechamptopping

Braisedpeasandcarrotswithmintbutter

Chilli-mintedmushypeas

Gingerbeer-batteredfish

Beefstewwithmustardsuetdumplings

Twice-bakedbubbleandsqueakjacketpotatoes

Roastedbeetrootandthymerisotto

Roastchickenwithchickpeastuffingandbiggreensalad

CrispyroastduckwithChinesepancakesanddippingsauce

Hoisinandcucumbersalad

Barbecue-styleslow-roastedbeefbrisket

Crunchylightcoleslaw

Spicedsweetpotatowedges

FRIENDSFORDINNERSlow-braisedbeefcheekswithpappardelle

Chickenfricassée

Sautéedpotatoes

Herbybutterbeansaladwithcrispypittabread

Pomegranatemolasses-marinatedspatchcockquail

Salt-crustseabream

Braisedleekswithhazelnuts

Chinesebraisedoxtail

Radishsalad

Grilledlobsterwithchilli,garlicandparsleybutter

Beeffilletwithsalsaverde

BakednewpotatoeswithtruffleandParmesan

Stickyspicedchickenwings

Stir-friedgreenbeanswithsoyandpeanutdressing

Thairicewithcurrypasteandgreenherbs

Slow-cookedsmokypulledporkbuttwithchipotlemayo

Crushedpotatoeswithspringonionsandcheese

Broccolislaw

Stuffedribofbeef

HorseradishYorkshirepuddings

Aromaticlambchopswithmintyyoghurt

Chargrilledbroccoliandbulgursalad

PUDDINGSPineapplecarpacciowithpomegranateandvanillasalt

Aperolspritzjelly

Lemonandbasilgranita

Bananaandcoconutfritters

Spicedbananatartetatin

Lavendarcrèmecaramel

Espressopannacottawithcinnamonhazelnutbrittle

Etonmessbombe

Pearandgingergalette

Mangoparfaitpotswithmaceratedberries

Whitechocolateandlimemousse

Applecompotewithacreamywhip

Steameddatepuddingwithbutterscotchsauce

Hazelnutmeringuetower

Chillipoachedpearswithstaranisedust

Chocolateandpistachiosemifreddo

INDEX

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS

INTRODUCTION

EVERYTHINGIKNOWABOUTCOOKINGI’VELEARNTTHROUGHHARDWORK,DRIVEANDPASSION.

Fromtheageof17Imadefoodmylife,andit’sfairtosaythatsincethenfoodhasbeenthemakingofme.ButthesortofcookingImademynamewith–intricatedishesmadewiththeworld’sfinestingredients–isamillionmilesfromthefoodIcookathome.WhenI’mwithfriendsandfamilyIwantthingstobemuchmorerelaxed.Istillwanttousegreatingredients,andtogetthemostfromthem,butmycookingbecomesmorerusticandeasy-going.

That’snottosayI’mnotstillusingthetechniquesIapplyinprofessionalkitchens.TheskillsIlearntundersomeoftheworld’sfinestchefs,fromAlbertRouxtoGuySavoy,willstaywithmefortherestofmylifeandI’dnomoreabandonthemthanIwouldopenagreasyspoon.Whenyouareaprofessionalchefyouapplyallyourknowledgeinstinctively–it’sjustthatyouhavetoapply

chefyouapplyallyourknowledgeinstinctively–it’sjustthatyouhavetoapplyitdifferently,becausecookingathomethrowsupadifferentsetofchallenges.Hopefullyyourdiners,betheyfriendsorfamily,won’tbeexpectingMichelin-qualitycooking(iftheyare,they’llbesorelydisappointedroundatmine),buttheycanstillbeamongthemostdemandingpeopletocookfor,neverafraidtotellyouwhattheythink.

Sowhatdotheyandyouwantfromhomecooking?That’sthefirstquestiontoask,andIthinkmyanswerisprobablythesameasitisineveryhouse.Withabusyfamily–there’smeandTanaandourfourchildren,Megan,Jack,HollyandTilly–Iwanttobeabletoprovidehealthyfoodthroughouttheday,frombreakfasttodinner,asquicklyandefficientlyaspossible.Iwantittobethekindoffoodthatgetseveryoneexcited,sothereneedstobelotsofvariety.Iwantittopackapunch,soIlovebigboldflavours.Aboveall,Iwantittobethesortoffoodthatwilldrawthewholefamilytogether.Itreallydepressesmehowmanyfamiliesdon’teatasaunitanymore,because,forme,sittingaroundatablesharingfoodandconversationisthebiggestpleasureinlifeandafamilythatdoesn’thavethatisallthepoorer.Butenoughofthetheory.Let’sgetontothepractice.Howdoyouachieveallthis?I’vedividedthisbookintochapterstoseeyouthroughthewholeday,fromweekdaybreakfaststhroughtoSaturdaynightdinners,andhopefullyyouwillfindplentyofrecipesthatwillbecomefamilyfavourites.Butbeforewegetontothose,letmesharesomegeneraltipstomakecookingapleasure.

BEORGANISED.Afteralifetimeinkitchens,this,Irealise,isthegoldenrule.Ninetimesoutoften,ifsomethinggoeswrong,it’syourpreparationthatwasatfault.Getyouringredientsout,prepthevegetables,haveallyourpansreadyandineasyreach.Notonlywillitmakeyourcookingmoreefficient,itwillalsomakeitfarlessstressful.Imightaddthatitalsomakesiteasiertotidyupasyougoalong,anothergreatskillthatprofessionalkitchenshavetaughtme.

BEADVENTUROUS.Greathomecookingisbuiltaroundtheclassics,butcookingthesameolddishescansoonbecomeachore.Thesecretistonotletthemgostale.Makesureyoukeepyourcookingexcitingbytweakingandadaptingit.Overthepast20yearsI’vereallynoticedabigchangeinpeople’sattitudestowhattheywillandwon’teat.Peoplearemuchmoreadventurousthesedays.Theylovetryingnewflavours,newingredientsandnewcookingtechniques,sotakeinspirationfromaroundtheworld.TryyourhandatAsiannoodlesorMexicantacos,makesomespicyMiddleEasternmeatballs.Evena

classiclikeroastbeefandYorkshirepuddingcanbegiventheoccasionalmakeover.Itwillmakeagreatchangeforyouandyourfamilyandgiveyouallrenewedenthusiasm.

BEBOLD.Onethingcookinghastodoistostandupandbenoticed.Itdoesn’tmatterifadishislightanddelicateorfull-onandgutsy,theflavoursshouldbedistinctandclear.Youdon’twantwishy-washy.Andthatmeansgettingthemaximumfromyouringredients.ThetwothingsInoticehomecooksdon’tuseconfidentlyenoughareheatandseasoning.Getyourpansproperlyhotbeforeaddingyouringredientsanddon’tbeafraidtogetagoodcolouronmeatandsometimesvegetables,asthiswilltranslateintoextraflavour.Similarly,seasonwellandearlyontobringouttheflavourofyouringredients,tastingasyougoalong.

BEREALISTIC.Alittleambitionisagoodthing,butit’salwaysgoodtoknowyourlimits.Notsomuchinthecomplexityofwhatyoumake–there’snothinginthisbookthatwillbebeyondareasonablecook–butintermsofyourmenuchoice.Thisismainlydowntogoodplanning.Don’tmakeamealthatrequiresfourdishestobestir-friedatthelastminute,ortrymakingafrozenpuddingafteryougetbackfromworkfordinnerthatevening.Rememberalsothatpracticemakesperfect.

BERELAXED.Ifyouworrythatsomethingwillgowrong,itprobablywill,sotrynottostressyourselfout.Remember,recipesareonlythereasaguidelineandmostofthetimealittlebittoomuchofthisortoolittleofthatisnotgoingtocauseacatastrophe.Getthechildrenoryourguestsinvolved.Havethemchoporstirorlaythetableandmakethewholeprocessamoresocialoccasion.Thatwayyou’llallhaveagoodtime–andifsomethingdoesgowrong,you’llhavesomeoneelsetoblame!

Butaboveall,havefun.Happycooking!

CHEFSHAVEADIFFICULTRELATIONSHIPWITHBREAKFAST.

Intruthit’sthemealtheyleastliketobeondutyfor–notjustbecausethey’relikelytohavebeenatworkuntil1a.m.thenightbefore,butalsobecauseitinvolvesalotoflast-minutework.Withmostmealsyouliveordiebyyourmise-en-place(allthepreparationyoudointhehoursbeforeservice,gettingthevegetableschoppedandpartcooked,thestocksreduced,thegarnishesready),whichleavesyoufreetoconcentrateonthemainelementofthedish.Withbreakfast,though,itdoesn’tworklikethatandthere’snotmuchyoucandoinadvance.Inevitablyitmeansmorehardworkwhenyourguestshavealreadysatdownandmadetheirchoices–short-ordercooking,wecallit.

It’seasierathome,ofcourse,becauseyouarepresumablynotgivingyourfriendsorfamilyachoice(ifyouare,youneedtostopthatrightnow!),but

friendsorfamilyachoice(ifyouare,youneedtostopthatrightnow!),butthereisstilladangeryou’llspendyourtimechainedtothestove,soit’simportanttoplanevenabreakfastorbrunchcarefullyanddoallyoucantomakeiteasyforyourself.Thefirstruleistochoosetherightdishes.Thiswilldependinlargepartonhowmanyyouarecateringfor:pancakesfortwoiseasy;pancakesfor12isanightmare.Scrambledeggsandomeletteswon’thangaroundandmustbeservedstraightaway.Poachedeggs,ontheotherhand,canbecookedinadvanceandreheatedinboilingwater.

Ifyourhouseislikemine,weekdaybreakfastsareabitofawrite-off.Theyareafunctionalbusiness–aquickbowlofcereal,apieceoftoast,ahuntforJack’sschooltie,andoutofthedoor–butthatdoesn’tmeanyoucan’tstillhaveacoupleofthingsonstandby.BeingagoodScot,Iwasbroughtuponporridge,butthesedaysItendtoseethatmoreasaweekendtreat,especiallymyspicedandbakedversion.Recently,though,I’vebecomeaconverttoBirchermuesli,acrossbetweenporridgeandmueslithatmakesafantasticallyhealthystarttotheday.Yousimplysoakoatsinyoghurtandapplejuice,ideallyovernight,andtopthemwithtoastednuts,seedsandgratedapplethenextmorning.Anotherpopulardishishome-madegranola–acombinationofoats,branandpuffedwheatbakedwithhoneyandseeds.Itwillkeepforweeksinanairtightjar.Bytheway,ifyouareafanoftraditionalporridgeandneedtomakeitinahurry,youshouldeitheruserolledoats,whichhavebeensteamedandflattenedintoflakessotheycookmorequickly,oryoucanuseatrickofmymum’s:shesoakedmoreflavoursomepinheadoatsincoldwaterovernight,about2partswaterto1partoats,thencookedthemintheusualwaythenextmorning.

Foramoreleisurelyweekendbrunchyoucangetmoreadventurous.There’stheclassicrepertoireofEnglishdishes,fromboiledeggandsoldiers,EggsBenedictorsmokedhaddocktothefullEnglish,butdon’tlimityourselftotheseshores.Americahasastrongbrunchtraditionandhashbrownsandproperhome-madebakedbeansarebothbrilliantinthemorning.Youcanalsogodownthespiceroutetoreinvigoratejadedpalates.Mexicaneggsorevenachilli-fleckedAsianfruitsaladwillperkupyourguestsinthesamewayasaspicyBloodyMarycan.Anddon’tforgetthatFrenchclassic,painperdu,oreggybreadaswealwayscallit.It’sbrilliantasasavouryaccompanimenttobakedbeansandbacon,butevenbetterdustedwithcinnamonandicingsugarandservedwithstewedapples.

Afterthat,you’llbereadytofacetheday,Ipromise.Here’smylistofbreakfastessentials.

BACON

Buythebestyoucan,traditionaldry-curedBritishoutofpreference.Ensureitisatroomtemperatureandstartwithahotpan.SlicesofParmahammakeaquick,super-crispyalternative.

POACHEDEGGS

Addasplashofvinegartoadeeppotofsimmeringwater.Crackveryfresheggsintoateacup,stirthewatertocreateavortexandthenverygentlylowerintothewater.Cookforacoupleofminutes,then‘shock’theminicedwater,tobereheatedinsimmeringwaterfor1minutewhenneeded.

PORRIDGEOATS

CoarserpinheadoatstypicalofIrelandhaveanuttierflavour,butrolledjumbooatscookmorequickly.

SCRAMBLEDEGGS

Thesecretsofsoft,richscrambledeggsaretostartwithacoldheavy-basedpan,onlybeattheeggsoncethey’reinthepan,andtoaddcoldbutterbeforestirringconstantlywithaplasticspatulatogetrightintothecorners.Iftheeggsstartsticking,takethepanofftheheatforamoment.

HOME-MADEGRANOLA

QUICKBIRCHERMUESLI

SPICEDBAKEDPORRIDGE

TANGYFRUITSALAD

CRISPYFILOWITHHONEYEDYOGHURT

CINNAMONEGGYBREADWITHQUICKSTEWEDAPPLE

EGGSBENEDICTWITHCRISPYPARMAHAM

BOILEDEGGSWITHANCHOVYSOLDIERS

SPICEDEGGANDSPINACHBREAKFASTWRAP

FENNELSAUSAGEFRITTATA

MERGUEZ-SAUSAGE-AND-FONTINASTUFFEDCROISSANTS

SMOKEDHADDOCKANDSPINACHBAKEDEGGS

HOME-MADEBAKEDBEANSWITHPOTATOCAKES

HASHBROWNBAKEDEGGSWITHCANDIEDBACON

BAKEDSPICYMEXICANEGGS

QUICKBIRCHERMUESLISERVES4Birchermuesliislikeacrossbetweenporridgeandregularmuesliinwhichoatsaresoftened,sometimesovernight,inyoghurt,applejuice,milkoramixofanyofthethree.It’sagreatstarttothedayandoneofthosesimplerecipeswhereyoucanmakeitupaccordingtowhat’stohand–youcanaddextraseeds,nutsandfruitasyouseefit.IalwaysincludegratedappleforthevitaminCandtoastanynutsinadrypanforextracrunch.

200–250mlyoghurt(flavouredyoghurt,e.g.blackberryorvanilla,isgreat)

4tbspapplejuice

200gjumborolledoats

4tbspflakedalmonds

½apple,grated,togarnish(optional)150gblackberries

1.Whisktheyoghurtandapplejuicetogetherinabowluntilwellcombined,thenstirintwo-thirdsoftheoats.Ifyouwish,youcansetthemixtureasideforuptoanhoursotheoatssoften;otherwise,useitimmediately.

2.Onceyouarereadytoserve,toastthealmondsinadryfryingpanuntilgolden.

3.Mixtheremainingoats.Topthemuesliwiththeblackberries,gratedapple(ifusing)andtoastedalmondsandserve.

1tspgroundcinnamon

½tspfreshlygratednutmeg,plusalittleextratosprinkle50gwholeblanchedalmonds50gblanchedhazelnuts75graisins1ripepear,peeled,coredandchoppedintosmallchunks500mlmilk,plusextraforserving200mldoublecream

2tbspdemerarasugar

1.Preheattheovento180°C/Gas4.

2.Combinetheoatsandvanillaseedsinamixingbowl–useyourfingerstorubtheseedsthroughtheoats.Addthespices,nuts,raisinsandpearandmixwell.Stirinthemilkandcream,thenpourthemixtureintoabakingdish.Dustwithalittleextragratednutmeg.

3.Placeintheovenandbakefor30–35minutes,oruntiltheoatsarecompletelysoftenedandtheliquidabsorbed.

4.Heatthegrillonitshighestsetting.Sprinklethetopoftheporridgewiththesugarandplaceunderthegrillfor3–4minutes,oruntilthesugarhasmeltedandcreatedacrust.

5.Servewarm,withalittleextramilkonthesideifdesired.

TANGYFRUITSALADSERVES4

I’vetravelledaroundtheFarEastquiteabitoverrecentyears,andasyou’dexpect,it’sopenedmyeyestothepossibilitiesofspice.OneofthemostsurprisingdishesIcamebackwithisthischilli-spikedfruitsalad.Itmakesalight,refreshingpudding,butI’vedevelopedarealtasteforitfirstthinginthemorningtoo.Thesecretistomakesureyourfruitisn’ttooripe,sothesaladstayscrispandtangyandgivesaproperkick-starttoyourday.

1smallpineapple,peeled,coredandcutintobite-sizedpieces2crunchygreenapples,quartered,coredandcutintobite-sizedchunks2pears,nottooripe,coredandcutintobite-sizedpieces1mango,notoverlyripe,peeledandcutintobite-sizedpieces½cucumber,peeled,deseededandcutintobite-sizedchunks

FORTHEDRESSING

1½tbsptamarindpasteZestandjuiceof1lime2–3tbsppalmorbrownsugar½–1redchilli,

finelysliced,totaste

3tbspskinlessunsaltedpeanuts

Seasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper

1.Firstmakethedressing.Mixthetamarindpaste,limezestandjuice,sugarandchilli,thenseasonwithalittlesaltandpepper.Mixwell,tasteandadjusttheseasoningasnecessary.

2.Toastthepeanutsinadryfryingpanwithasmallpinchofsaltuntilgoldenandtoasted.Wrapthenutsinacleanteatowelandrunarollingpinoverthemtocrushthem.

3.Mixthecrushedpeanutsintothedressing.Tasteandaddalittlemoresugarand/orsaltifneeded.

4.Combinethefruitsandcucumberinaservingbowl.Addhalfthedressingandtosswell.Tasteandaddtheremainingdressingifneeded.

USINGTAMARINDTamarind’stangyflavourmakesitaveryusefuladditiontosalads,andit’sdefinitelyworthtrackingdownajarifyoucan.Addingalittleextralimejuicecansometimesbeagoodsubstitute,thoughyoumayfindthesaladwilllackacertainfruitysharpness.TamarindpastecanalsobeusedinpadthaiandAsianfishdishes,chickencurriesandmyStickySpicedChickenWings.

CRISPYFILOWITHHONEYEDYOGHURTSERVES4

Thecombinationofpastry,Parmesan,honeyandyoghurtmaysoundstrange,butdogivetheseatry.TheGreeksofteneatfetaandfilotrianglesdrizzledwiththymehoneyandsesameseedsasasnack,soIdecidedtoreworkthemwithParmesanandaddedsomeluxuriousthickyoghurt.It’stheperfectcombinationofsavouryandsweetandworksparticularlywellforbrunch.

50gbutter

Smallbunchofthyme,leavesonly

75gParmesanorpecorinocheese

4sheetsoffilopastry,eachtrimmedtoalargesquareOliveoil,forfryingFreshlygroundblackpepperTOSERVE

250gGreekorthickyoghurt

2tbsprunnyhoney

1.Meltthebutterinasmallsaucepan.Meanwhile,putthethymeleavesinabowlandmixwithagoodpinchofpepper.

2.Placeasquareoffiloonaworksurface.Brushwithalittleofthemeltedbutter,sprinkleoveraquarterofthethymeleavesandgrateoveraquarterofthecheese.Brushtheedgeswithbutter,foldthesquareintoatriangleandpresstheedgestoseal.Slicethetriangleinhalf,creatingtwosmallertriangles,brushthecutedgeswithbutterandpresstoseal.Repeatwiththeremainingpiecesoffilountilyouhave8trianglesintotal.

3.Heatalargeheavy-basedfryingpanoveramediumheat.Brushthepanwithalittleoiloranyleftovermeltedbutterandfryafewtrianglesatatimefor1–2minutesoneitherside,untilcrispandgolden.Setasideandkeepwarmwhilecookingtheremainingtriangles.

4.Mixtogethertheyoghurtandhoneyandservealongsidethecrispyfiloparcels.

HOWTOHANDLEHONEYStickyingredients,suchashoney,treacleandgoldensyrup,canbeamesstomeasureout,sorubthespoonfirstwithaneutraloil,likegrapeseed.Theingredientwillslideoffeasily.

CINNAMONEGGYBREADWITHQUICKSTEWEDAPPLESERVES4

Likemostfamiliesweoftenhavesomeslightlystalebreadknockingaround,andthis,alongwithbreadandbutterpudding,isagreatwayofusingitup.Normallyrecipescallforthecinnamonandsugartobesprinkledononlyattheend,butIliketoaddthemtotheeggmixsothatthesugarcaramelisesslightlyasyoucookit.Afewstewedapplesmaketheperfectaccompaniment.

3free-rangeeggs,beaten

4tbspwholemilk

1tspgroundcinnamon,plusextrafordusting

2tbspcastersugar

4thickslicesofslightlystalewhitebread,halvedintotrianglesButter,forfryingIcingsugar,fordusting

FORTHESTEWEDAPPLE400geatingapples,e.g.Braeburn,coredandchoppedintochunks

2tpspcastersugar

25gbutter

1.Firstmakethestewedfruit.Beginbymeltingthecastersugarinasmallsaucepanorsautépan,swirlitaroundinthepanbutdon’tstirit.Oncemelted,addtheapplesandbutter,cookfor2minutesbeforeaddingacoupleoftablespoonsofwater.Bringtoasimmerandcookfor5–8minutesoveralowheat,stirringnowandagainuntiltheapplebeginstocollapseandthechunksthatremainaretender.Setaside.

2.Meanwhile,puttheeggs,milk,cinnamonandsugarintoabowlandmixtogether.Dipthebreadintotheeggmixtureuntilsaturatedoneitherside.

3.Heatalargefryingpanoveramediumheat.Addaknobofbutterandcooktheeggybreadoneithersideuntilcrispandgolden.

4.Removeandservewiththewarmstewedappledustedwithalittleicingsugar.

HOWTOVARYTHERECIPEThisworksjustaswellwiththinlyslicedbaguettesandisevenmoredecadentwhenmadewithday-oldbrioche,croissantsorpanettone.

EGGSBENEDICTWITHCRISPYPARMAHAMSERVES4

SupposedlynamedafteraNewYorkstockbrokerwhoorderedpoachedeggsandhollandaiseasacureforhishangoverinthe1890s,thishasbecometheworld’smostfamousbrunchdish.It’sgreatwithspinachorsmokedsalmon,butIlikeitbestwithcrispParmaham.Timingistherealchallengehere,butthehollandaisewillholdinawarmplacefor30minutesorso,andyoucanalwaysmakethepoachedeggsinadvanceandreheatthem(seethetip).

Oliveoil,forfryingWhitewinevinegar,forpoaching

8slicesofParmaham

4free-rangeeggs

2Englishmuffins,splitinhalf

FORTHEHOLLANDAISESAUCE

3free-rangeeggyolks

2tsptarragonorwhitewinevinegar200mlunsaltedbutter,meltedLemonjuice,totasteSeasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper

1.Firstmakethehollandaise.Bringalargepanofwatertotheboil,thenreducetoasimmer.Placealargeheatproofbowloverthepan(itshouldnottouchthewater)andaddtheeggyolks.Addthevinegarandwhiskvigorously,untilthemixtureformsafoam,butmakesureitdoesn’tgettoohot.Ifnecessary,takeitonandofftheheatwhilewhiskingtopreventthishappening.Theaimistoachieveagolden,airyfoam.

2.Turntheheatoffunderthepanandwhiskinthemeltedbutteralittleatatime,untilitisallincorporatedandyouhaveatexturealmostasthickasmayonnaise.Finally,whiskinlemonjuice,saltandpeppertotaste,plusalittlewarmwaterfromthepanifthemixtureistoothick.Coverandsetaside.

3.Heatafryingpanoveramediumheat,addadashofoilandfrytheslicesofhamuntilcrisp.Removeanddrainonkitchenpaper.

4.Putthemuffinhalvesintheemptyfryingpanandtoastonbothsidesuntilgoldenandcrisp.

5.Meanwhile,bringasaucepanofwatertoagentlesimmerandaddadashofvinegar.Breakaneggintoateacuporramekin,thenwhiskthewatertocreateagentlewhirlpool,andtiptheeggintothecentreofit.Leavetocookfor3minutes,oruntiltheeggfloatstothetopandthewhiteiscookedbuttheyolkstillsoft.Lifttheeggoutwithaslottedspoon,drainonkitchenpaperandseasonwithapinchofsalt.Keepwarmwhileyoucooktheremainingeggsinthesameway.

6.Toserve,placeeachmuffinhalfonaservingplate.Topwithasliceofcrispyhamandapoachedegg.Spoonoverthehollandaisesauce,andplacetheremainingcrispyhamontheside.

HOWTOREHEATPOACHEDEGGS

HOWTOREHEATPOACHEDEGGSIfnecessary,youcanmakepoachedeggsinadvanceandreheatthembydippingtheminsimmeringwaterfor30secondsjustbeforeserving.

BOILEDEGGSWITHANCHOVYSOLDIERSSERVES2

Whodoesn’tlikeboiledeggsandsoldiers?It’soneofthosechildhooddisheswetendtoforgetaboutbutcomebacktowhenwehavekidsofourown.HereI’mturningitonitsheadbyspreadingthesoldierswithbutterandmashedanchoviestomakeakindofhome-madeGentleman’sRelish.It’sagreattwistonagreatclassicandguaranteedtomakeyourtastebudsstandtoattention.

2free-rangeeggs

FORTHEANCHOVYSOLDIERS

5–6best-qualitytinnedanchovyfilletsinoliveoilFreshlygroundblackpepper30–50gbutter,softened

4thinslicesofsourdoughorpaindecampagnebread2tbspfinelychoppedparsley(optional)1.Draintheanchovies,reservingtheoil,andplaceinamortarwithapinchofpepper.Pounduntilsmooth,thenaddthebutterandpoundagainuntilwellmixed.Tasteandadjusttheseasoningasnecessary.

2.Cooktheeggsingentlyboilingwaterfor4½minutes.Removethemassoonasthetimeisup.

3.Meanwhile,placeaheavy-basedfryingpanoveramediumheatandadd1–2tablespoonsofthereservedanchovyoil.Oncehot,addthebreadandtoastitoneachsideuntilgoldenbrown.

4.Spreadthetoastwiththeanchovybutter,sprinklewiththechoppedparsley,ifusing,andsliceintosoldiers.Servealongsidethesoft-boiledeggs.

HOWTOSOFTBOILEGGSThesecrettosoftlyboilingeggsistolowerthemgentlyintoboilingwateronaspoonandtiltingitsotheydon’thitthebottomofthepan.Thencounttofive,turntheheatdown,andcookforfourandahalfminutes.

SPICEDEGGANDSPINACHBREAKFASTWRAPSERVES4

You’llfindbreakfastwrapslikethesesoldbystreetvendorsalloverIndiaandtheymakeareallybalancedmeal,especiallyifyouareonthego.AthomeIliketoputthecurriedeggs,spinachmixandbowlsofmintyyoghurtonthetable,leavingeveryonetohelpthemselves.

1–2tspcuminseeds1–2tspmustardseedsOliveoil,forfrying1onion,peeledandfinelyslicedButter,forfrying200gbabyspinach,rinsed1tspgarammasala2tspgroundturmeric8free-rangeeggs4parathasorthinnaanbreads

3tspfinelyshreddedmintleaves

6tbspnaturalyoghurt

Seasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper

1.Toastthecuminandmustardseedsinalightlyoiledpanuntilaromatic.Addtheonion,aknobofbutterandapinchofsaltandfrygentlyoveramediumheatfor5–7minutes,untiltheonionistenderanddarkgolden.Addthespinachandcookuntilwilted.Setaside.

2.Meltanotherknobofbutterinaseparatepanwithasplashofoliveoil.Addthegarammasalaand1teaspoonoftheturmericandcookforaminuteortwo,untilaromatic.

3.Meanwhile,beattheeggsinabowl.Pourthemixtureoverthespices,addaknobofbutterandgentlyscrambleoveralowheatuntilcookedtoyourliking.Addanotherknobofbuttertotheeggsjustbeforetheyfinishcookingandmixthrough.

4.Warmtheparathasornaanbreadsaccordingtothepacketinstructions–usuallyabout2minutesinadrypan.

5.Chopthespinachmixture,discardinganyliquid,thenfoldintotheeggs.

6.Addthechoppedmintandremainingteaspoonofturmerictotheyoghurt.Seasonwithapinchofsaltandmixwell.

7.Dividetheeggmixturebetweentheparathasornaanbreads.Topwithdollopsoftheyoghurt,thenfoldoverandserveimmediately.

FENNELSAUSAGEFRITTATASERVES4Sausageandegg,Italianstyle.Thesausagemeatistakenoutofitscasingsoitcooksmorequicklyandallowsallthemeatflavourstominglewiththeonionsandfennel.Thenyouaddbeateneggstomakeafrittata–essentiallyanopenomelette.Finishitoffwithmeltedmozzarella.There’snoneedtouseyourbestbuffalomilkmozzarellaforthis–anygoodqualitycow’smilkmozzarellawilldo.

Oliveoil,forfrying

1onion,peeledandthinlysliced

1tspfennelseeds

2–4Italianfennelsausages(about350gintotal)

8free-rangeeggs

Smallhandfulofparsley,finelychopped50gParmesancheese,finelygrated1ballofgood-qualitymozzarellacheese,slicedSeasaltandfreshly

groundblackpepper1.Heatanon-stick,heavy-based,ovenprooffryingpan,addadashofoilandgentlysautétheonionwiththefennelseedsandapinchofsaltuntilsoftandlightlycaramelising.

2.Meanwhile,removethesausagemeatfromtheskin.

3.Oncetheonionsarecooked,crumblethesausagemeatintothepan,breakingitintosmallchunkswithawoodenspoon.Fryoveramediumheatuntilcookedthroughandcolouredontheoutside.

4.Beattheeggsinabowlandseasonwithsaltandpepper.Addtheparsleyand25goftheParmesan.Pourthemixtureoverthemeat,mixwellandcookoveramedium-lowheatfor5–7minutes,oruntilthefrittataisalmostset.

5.Preheatthegrilluntilhot.ArrangethemozzarellaoverthefrittatainasinglelayerandsprinklewiththeremainingParmesan.Placethepanunderthegrillfor3–4minutes,oruntiltheeggiscookedthroughandthemozzarellamelted,bubblingandlightlybrowned.

6.Setasidetocoolslightly,thentransfertoaservingboard.Cutintowedgestoserve.

HOWTOSOFTENFENNELSEEDSSomepeopleworryaboutfennelseedsbeingtoohardandgettingstuckintheirteeth.Ifso,youcanalwayssoakthemincoldwaterfor10minutesanddrainthembeforecooking.Thiswillsoftenthemupnicely.

4best-qualitycroissants

175gFontinaorPortSalutcheese,thinlyslicedSeasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper

1.Placeafryingpanoveramediumheat,addadashofoliveoilandfrythesausagesliceswithalittlesaltandpepperuntilcookedthroughandlightlycolouredontheoutside.Removeandsliceonthediagonal,thenplaceinabowl.

2.Addthegarlictothepanandfryfor30seconds,thenaddtheparsleyandcapersandheatforanother30seconds.Mixwiththesausages.

3.Preheatthegrill.

4.Slicetheverytopoffeachcroissanttocreatealid.Frythecutsidesinthehotpanuntilgolden.Gentlypushdowntheinsideofthecroissantstocreateahollow,thenfillwiththesausagemixture.Topwiththeslicesofcheeseandseasonwithsaltandpepper.

5.Placethefilledcroissants(withoutthelids)onabakingsheetandputunderthehotgrillfor1–2minutes,untilthecheesehasmelted.Placethelidsontopandserve.

HOWTOUSEFRESHHERBSINCOOKINGAddthestalksofsoftherbsduringcookingtoimpartflavour,andtheleavesjustbeforeservingtoimpartmaximumfragranceandcolour.

SMOKEDHADDOCKANDSPINACHBAKEDEGGSSERVES4–6

ThecombinationofsweetlysmokedhaddockandspinachisaclassicI’dbehappytositdowntoatanytimeoftheday,butlikekedgeree,itreallylendsitselftoaheartyweekendbrunch.Insteadofbotheringtomakeawhitesaucewithmilkandflour,I’musingcrèmefraîcheasaquickcheat,cuttingtherichnesswithsomelovelywholegrainmustard.YoucouldalwaysmixinsomecrispybaconpiecesorsprinkleoversomefreshlygratedParmesanbeforefinishingitunderthegrillifyouliked.

Butter,forfryingOliveoil,forfrying

300gbabyspinach,rinsed

300gundyed,skinlesssmokedhaddock,choppedintochunks300mlcrèmefraîche

1tbspwholegrainmustard

4tarragonsprigs,leavesonly

6free-rangeeggs

4springonions,finelyslicedSeasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper

1.Preheattheovento180°C/Gas4.

2.Placeanovenprooffryingpanorshallowcasseroledishoveramediumheat.Addaknobofbutterandadashofoliveoil,thensautéthespinachwithalittlesaltandpepperuntilwilted.Placethehaddockchunksontopofthespinachandsteamfor3–4minutes.Mixthefishintothespinach.

3.Combinethecrèmefraîche,mustardandtarragoninabowl,andaddalittleseasoningtotaste.Spoonhalfthemixtureoverthespinachandmix.Allowtowarmthrough,thenturnofftheheat.

4.Breaktheeggsoverthetopofthedish.Dotwiththeremainingcrèmefraîcheandplaceintheovenfor8–10minutes,untilthewhitesarecookedthroughbuttheyolksstillsoft.

5.Setasidetocoolslightlybeforesprinklingwithspringonionsandserving.

HOME-MADEBAKEDBEANSWITHPOTATOCAKESSERVES4

Likeeverychild,Ilovedtinnedbakedbeanswhengrowingup.TheywerearealtreatandI’veneverlostthetasteforthem.NowadaysIliketomakemyowntogetabetterbalanceofsweetnessandaciditytosuitadulttastesandtoaddsomespicetoworkagainstthenaturalblandnessofthebeans.

Oliveoil,forfrying100gpancettalardons1redchilli,finelysliced2garliccloves,peeledandfinelychopped1redonion,peeledandfinelydiced

1tbsplightmuscovadosugar

2tbspcidervinegar

Worcestershiresauce,totaste500mlsmoothtomatopassata2×400gtinsharicotbeans,drained(orcannelliniifyouprefer)Seasalt

andfreshlygroundblackpepperFORTHEPOTATOCAKES500gpotatoes,peeledandboileduntiltender50gbutter,plusextrafor

frying4–5tbspplainflour,plusextrafordusting1.Placeanovenproofsaucepanorcasseroledishoveramediumheatandaddadashofoil.Oncehot,addthepancetta,alittlepepperandthechilliandfryuntilcookedthroughbutnotcrisping.Addthegarlicandcookfor2minutes,thenaddtheonionandcookoveralowheatuntilcompletelytender,about5minutes.Stirinhalfthesugar,thenaddthevinegar.Boilfor1minute,thenaddWorcestershiresaucetotaste.

2.Stirinthepassataandseasonwithagoodpinchofsaltandpepper,theremainingsugarandacoupleofshakesofWorcestershiresauce.Bringtoasimmerandcookfor4–5minutes.Addthebeansandcookforafurther5–10minutes,untilthesaucehasreducedandthickenedandthebeansarereallysoftandtender.

3.Meanwhile,makethepotatocakes.Mashtheboiledpotatoesuntilsmooth(oruseapotatoricer),addthebutterandmixwell.Add4tablespoonsoftheflouralongwithapinchofsaltandpepperandstirwell.Theaimistoformadough,soaddalittlemoreflourifnecessary.

4.Usingyourhands,rollpiecesofthedoughintoballsjustlargerthanagolfball.Placethemonalightlyflouredworksurfaceandflattenthemintolittlecakesabout1cmthick.Chillfor20minutes.

5.Placeaheavy-basedfryingpanoveramediumheatandaddadashofoliveoil.Whenhot,frythepotatocakesoneitherside(inbatchesifnecessary)untilgoldenandcrispingslightly.Whilecooking,seasonwithapinchofsaltandaddasmallknobofbuttertothepan.Drainthecakesonkitchenpapertoremoveanyexcessoil.

6.Tasteandadjusttheseasoningofthebeansasnecessary,addingalittlemorevinegarand/orWorcestershiresauce,aswellassaltandpepper.Servealongside

thewarmpotatocakes.

HOWTOFRYPOTATOESWITHBUTTERButtergivesalovelyrichfinishtofriedpotato,butitburnsmoreeasilythanoil.Forbestresults,startwithoilandthenaddbuttertowardstheendofyourcookingtime,usingaspoontobastethepotatoesasthebutterfrothsup.

HASHBROWNBAKEDEGGSWITHCANDIEDBACONSERVES6

TheAmericansalwaysknowagreatbreakfast,andtheylovetheirhashbrowns.Youcouldmaketheseinamuffintintocreateindividualservings,butIliketoserveitfamily-styleinonebigpan.Makesureyousqueezeoutallthemoisturefromthegratedpotatoorelsetheywillboilintheliquidinsteadofgettingthatlovelygoldencrust.ThecrispcandiedbaconcompletesmytributetoaStatesidebrunch.

850g–1kgwaxypotatoes,peeledandgrated1onion,peeledandgratedOliveoilCayennepepper

4knobsofbutter

6free-rangeeggs

Seasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper

FORTHECANDIEDBACON

1tspsoftbrownsugar

Knobofbutter

8rashersofsmokedstreakybacon

1.Preheattheovento200°C/Gas6.

2.Placethepotatoesandonioninacolanderandpresstosqueezeoutanyexcessmoisture.Seasonwithsaltandpepper,adrizzleofoliveoilandapinchofcayennepepper.Mixwell,thensqueezeagainusingyourhandstogetridofanylasttracesofmoisture.

3.Heatalargeovenprooffryingpanoveramediumheat.Pourinadashofoliveoil,thenaddthepotatomixtureandpressdowntocompactit.Break2knobsofbutterintosmallpiecesanddotthemaroundtheedgesofthepan.Continuecookinguntilthepotatoisgoldenandcrisponthebottom.

4.Placeaplateoverthefryingpan,quicklyinvertboth,thenslidethepotatomixturebackintothepansothattheuncookedsideisnowonthebottom.Breaktheremainingknobsofbutterintopieces,dotthemaroundtheedgesandcontinuecookingthepotatofor5minutes,oruntilthebaseisgolden.

5.Breaktheeggsontopofthehashbrown.Sprinklewithanotherpinchofcayennepepperandplaceintotheovenfor6–8minutes,oruntiltheeggwhitesarefirmbuttheyolksarestillrunny.

6.Meanwhile,tocookthebacon,heatafryingpanoveramediumheat.Addthesugar,seasonwithalittlepepperandaddthebutter.Oncebeginningtocaramelise,addthebaconandcookfor3–4minutesoneitherside,untilgoldenandcrisp.

7.Toserve,placethehashbrowneggsonawarmplateandtopwiththebacon.

BAKEDSPICYMEXICANEGGSSERVES6

Eggspoachedorbakedinafierytomatosauceisapopularbreakfastallaroundtheworld.There’safamousNorthAfricanversioncalledshakshuka,whichsometimeshasartichokesorbroadbeansinit,buthereI’mgivingitamoreLatinAmericanflavourbyaddingblackbeansandcookingitonabaseofcorntortillas.Gratedcheeseandchoppedcorianderfinishitoffnicely,butyoucouldalwaysgofurtherandaddslicedavocadoandsourcreamifyoulike.

Oliveoil,forfryingandgreasing

1redonion,peeledanddiced

1widegreenchilli,e.g.jalapeño,orordinarygreenchilliifunavailable,sliced2garliccloves,peeledandfinelysliced

1tspcuminseeds

1×400gtinchoppedtomatoes1×400gtincookedblackbeans,drainedandrinsed4–6corntortillas,halved

6free-rangeeggs

50gCheddarcheese,finelygrated2pinchesofchilliflakes,ortotasteSmallhandfulofcoriander,finelychoppedSeasaltandfreshlyground

blackpepper1.Preheattheovento180°C/Gas4,andheatthegrillaswellifyouhaveanovengrillfunction.

2.Placeafryingpanoveramediumheatandaddaglugofoliveoil.Addtheonion,chilliandgarlicwithapinchofsaltandpepperandsautéuntiltenderanddarkgolden,about6minutes.Addthecuminandcookuntilaromatic.Stirinthetomatoesandgentlysimmerfor5minutes.Addthebeans,heatthroughfor2minutes,thensetaside.

3.Greaseabakingdishwithalittleoilandsprinklesomeseasoninginthebottomofit.Linethedishwiththetortillas,overlappingthemandraisingthemslightlyabovetheedgeofthedish.Pourinthetomatomixture,thenmake6littlewellsinit.

4.Breakaneggintoacup,thenpouritintoawellsothattheyolksitsneatlyinthemiddle.Repeatwiththeremainingeggs.Sprinkleoverthecheeseandchilliflakesandseasonwithsaltandpepper.

5.Placethedishonashelftwo-thirdsofthewayuptheovensothatthegrill(ifon)cancolourthecheese.Bakefor8–10minutes,oruntiltheeggwhitesarecookedthrough,theyolksrunnyandthecheesemeltedandgolden.Ifyoudon’thaveanovengrill,bakeforafurther3–4minutes.

6.Scatterwiththecorianderbeforeserving.

THERE’SAGOODREASONWHYSOUPSANDSANDWICHESHAVEBECOMETHESTAPLEOFAMILLIONLUNCHES.

Easytomakeandquicktoeat,theyareagreatwayofcombiningdifferentflavoursandtexturesinasinglehit.Theycanalsobeasgrandorassimpleastheoccasionoryourbudgetdemands,fromahumblecheesesandwichwithasplodgeofchutneytoalobsterbisque.Madewithoutloveorattention,though,theycanalsobeincrediblydreary,asanyofficeworkerwillattest.There’snothingquitesodepressingasafewlimplettuceleavesclampedbetweenslicesofcheapbreadorathinwaterysoupinwhichyou’dstruggletoidentifyasingleingredient.

Whenyouarecookingathome,ofcourse,thatneedneverbeanissueandIdefyanyonetofindanythinghumdrumaboutthesoups,breadsandsandwichesI’veputtogetherhere.FromWelshrarebittogazpacho,there’ssomethingtokeepeveryoneinthefamilyhappy.

Asalways,thekeytosuccessliesinthequalityofingredientsyouuse,solet’sstartwithbread.There’snopointinpilingyourdeliciousgriddledcourgettes,ricottaandmintontoasliceofspongyslicedwhite.Evenachipbuttydeservesagood-qualitywhitebread.WhenIwasdoingmy‘stage’withGuySavoyinParis,oneofmyfirstjobswasmakingtheloavesandrolls.EverynightI’dturnoutbeautifulwhite,brown,sourdoughandcheesebreads,andsincethenI’veaddedotherclassicssuchastheItalianfocacciaandciabattaandMiddleEasternflatbreadstomyrepertoire.Flatbreadsareparticularlyusefulasyoudon’thavetowaitforthemtorisesothey’reveryquicktomakeandwillturnatubofshop-boughthoumousortzatzikiintoadecentlunch.

I’mnotnaïveaboutexpectingyoualltostartbakingyourownbread–althoughyoumusttrymyinstantBeerBread,whichcanbeonthetablewithin40minutes–butitisworthbuyingthebestyoucanandsupportingtheartisanbakeriesthatarethankfullyhavingarenaissance.Notonlyishandcraftedbreadhealthierforyou,withfeweradditivesandlesssugarandsalt,butitalsotastessomuchbetter.GenerallyIfindsourdoughthemostversatile.It’smadefromastarterratherthancommercialyeastsohasamorecomplexflavourand,asthenamesuggests,aslightlysourtangthatworksreallywellwithcheesesandvegetables.It’smoreexpensivetobuy,butIpromiseyou’llneverwasteanybecauseitcanstillbeusedevenwhenseveraldaysold.Onthefirstdayit’sidealforsandwiches,thenextcoupleofdaysitcanbetoastedorusedforbruschetta,andbydayfourit’sperfectformakingcroutonsoraddingtogazpacho.

Whichleadsusontosoups.Ialwaysthinkoftheseasreallyversatileone-potwonders.Agreatwayofusingupleftovervegetables,youcantakethemtoanylevelyoulike,addingthingslikebacon,musselsandclamsforflavour,ornoodles,pastaandpotatoesforbulk.Gazpachoreliesontomatoesforitsliquidbutmostsoupsuseastockbase.Stockcubesorjustwaterareoptionshere,butit’sreallynothardtomakeyourownstock,whichwillgiveanysouparealboost.

VEGETABLESTOCK

Tomakeasimplevegetablestock,justcoverchoppedonions,carrots,celeryandahalvedheadofgarlicwithwater,season,andsimmergentlyfor20minutes.Thenaddaglassofwine,asmallbundleofherbs–parsley,thymeandtarragon,say–andleavetocool,ideallyovernight.Thenstrainitbeforeusing.Itwillkeepinthefridgeforfivedaysorfreezeforuptosixmonths.

CHICKENSTOCKStockmadewithchickenhasabitmoreoomphtoit,butstilllendsitselfequallytovegetablesoupsandmeatyones.Intherestaurantswe’llmaketwotypesofchickenstock:awhiteonewithuncookedcarcassesfordelicatebrothsandrisottosandabrownonewithbrownedvegetables,roastedbonesandtomatopuréeforheartystewsandchunkysoups.That’sprobablymoretroublethanyou’llwanttogowhencookingforthefamily.Thebest

troublethanyou’llwanttogowhencookingforthefamily.Thebestcompromiseis,afteraroastdinner,toputthebonesandanymeatstillclingingtotheminalargepotwithahalvedonion,ahalvedheadofgarlicandroughlychoppedcarrots,leeksandabunchofthymeorparsley.Throwinsomepeppercornsandjustcoveritwithcoldwater,thenbringitslowlytoasimmerandcookforacoupleofhours.Ifyouwantaclearstock,you’llneedtoskimthesurfaceoffattyresidueregularlyasitcooks,butagainit’snotsomethingtoworryabouttoomuch.Itwillstilltastegreat.Youcankeepstockinthefridgeforfivedaysorfreezeforuptosixmonths.

CREAMYTOMATOSOUPWITHSUNDRIEDTOMATOPESTO

GAZPACHO

SPICYMEXICANSOUP

HOME-MADETORTILLACHIPSWITHPICODEGALLODIP

SMOKYBACON,SWEETCORNANDPOTATOSOUP

AMERICAN-STYLECHEESEBISCUITS

STEAMEDMUSSELSWITHCHERRYTOMATOESANDPANCETTA

SAFFRONFLATBREADS

SPICYCLAMNOODLESOUP

WELSHRAREBIT

AVOCADOANDBLACKSESAMESPRINKLEONSOURDOUGH

PEAR,GOAT’SCHEESEANDWALNUTTARTINE

PRAWNTOSTADA

COURGETTEANDRICOTTABRUSCHETTE

PANBAGNAT

PLOUGHMAN’SSALAD

BEERBREAD

CHIPBUTTY

CREAMYTOMATOSOUPWITHSUNDRIEDTOMATOPESTOSERVES4

Fewthingsareasnostalgicasawarmingbowlofcreamoftomatosoup,but,likemostfoodsfromchildhood,itcanbeeasilyimprovedbyemployingafewcheffytricks.Roastingthetomatoesfirstwithgarlic,onionandcayennepepperreallyhelpstointensifytheirflavourandthecharrededgesgivealovelysmokyqualitytothefinishedsoup.Thenthesundriedtomatopestoattheendisanotherbigheartyflavourbooster.ServewithcrustybreadorWelshRarebit.

2redonions,peeledandsliced

2garliccloves,peeledandfinelysliced

½–1tspcayennepepper,totasteOliveoil,fordrizzling

1.5kgripetomatoes,coredandhalved

1tspcastersugar

1tspagedbalsamicvinegar1litrevegetableorchickenstock100mldoublecream

SeasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepperFORTHESUNDRIEDTOMATOPESTO

2–3tbsppinenuts75gsundriedtomatoes,drained,oilreservedandfinelychopped50g

Parmesancheese,gratedOliveoil1.Preheattheovento180°C/Gas4.

2.Placearoastingtrayonthehoboveramedium-highheat.Addtheonions,garlicandcayennepepper,drizzlewithenougholiveoiltocoat,andcookfor3–4minutes.Addthetomatoescutsidedown,seasonwithapinchofsalt,pepperandthesugar,drizzleoverthebalsamicvinegarandcookoverahighheatfor3–4minutes,untilthetomatoesbegintocaramelise.Stirwell,thentransfertotheovenfor20–25minutes.

3.Tomakethepesto,startbytoastingthepinenutsinadryfryingpanuntilgolden.Putthesundriedtomatoesintoamortarandpoundwithapestleuntilcompletelybrokendown.Seasonwithatouchofsalt,addthepinenutsandcontinuetopounduntilyoureachapestoconsistency.StirintheParmesan,thenaddtheoliveoilandenoughofthesundriedtomatooiltobringthepestotoaspooningconsistency(itshouldprovideabout3–4tablespoons).

4.Placethetrayofroastedtomatoesonthehoboveramediumheatandpourinthestock.Bringtotheboil,thensimmerfor4–5minutes.Addthecream,stirwellandcontinuetosimmerfor2–3minutes.

5.Usingastickblender,blendthesoupuntilalmostsmoothbutstillwithacoupleofchunkybits(useapotatomasherforamorerustictexture.Servewarmwithdollopsofpestoontop.

HOWTOENHANCETHEFLAVOUROFTOMATOESAddingjustapinchofsugartocookedtomatodishesorpastasauces

Addingjustapinchofsugartocookedtomatodishesorpastasauceshelpstobringoutthetomatoes’naturalsweetness,especiallywhenthetomatoesaren’tasripeastheymightbe.

GAZPACHOSERVES4

ThisrefreshingcoldSpanishsouphasgottobetheeasiestintheworldtomakeandisperfectservedalfrescoonahotsummer’sday–followmyniftytipbelowandyoucaneventakeitonapicnic!There’snocookinginvolvedandtheonlytime-consumingthingiswaitingforittochill.Thesecretistogettherightbalanceofoliveoil,sherryvinegarandseasoning,sodotasteasyougoalongandremember,flavoursaremoremutedwhenchilled.

1cucumber,peeledandchopped1redpepper,deseededandchopped1greenpepper,deseededandchopped1kgripeplumtomatoes,coredandchopped2garliccloves,peeledandcrushed2springonions,trimmedandfinelychopped

75gstalecrustywhitebread,chopped

2–2½tbspsherryvinegar,ortotasteSmallbunchofbasilExtravirginoliveoilSeasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepperFORTHE

TOASTS(OPTIONAL)

8thinslicesofcountry-stylewhitebread

Oliveoil,forbrushing1.Placethecucumber,peppers,tomatoes,garlicandspringonionsinalargebowl.Addthebread,3–4basilleavesandseasonwellwithsaltandpepper.Addthesherryvinegarandacoupleoftablespoonsofoliveoilandmixtogetherwithyourhands,pressingdowntosqueezeoutthejuices.Coverandchill.Leavetomarinateforatleast30minsorovernight.

2.Putthevegetablemixtureintoablenderandwhizuntilsmooth.Checktheconsistency.Ifitisstillratherthickandnotveryrich,addanotherglugortwoofoliveoiluntilyoureachaconsistencyyoulike.Tasteandadjusttheseasoningasnecessary.Youmightneedalittlemorevinegar.Coverandchillagain,until

reallycoldandyou’rereadytoserve.(Atthispoint,youcanfreezesomeinice-cubetrays,assuggestedinthetipbelow).

3.Meanwhile,makethetoasts,ifusing.Brushtheslicesofbreadgenerouslywitholiveoil.Placealargegriddlepanoveramediumheat.Oncehot,addthebreadandtoastoneithersideuntilgoldenandcrunchy.Drainonkitchenpaper,thenseasonwithalittlesaltandpepper.

4.Toserve,stirthegazpachoandtasteagainastheseasoningmayhavechangedasthesoupisnowverycold.Adjustasnecessary,thenserveicecoldwithgazpachoicecubes,sprinkledwiththerestofthebasil,chopped,anextradrizzleofoliveoilandthetoastsalongside,ifusing.

HOWTOKEEPGAZPACHOCHILLEDAclevertricktomakesuregazpacho–oranycoldsoup–stayswellchilledistofreezesmallamountsinanicecubetrayandaddthesetothesoupjustbeforeserving(or,ifyou’regoingtoapicnic,justbeforesettingout).Thesoupwillbedeliciouslychilledwithoutbeingwatereddownasitwouldbyordinaryicecubes.

SPICYMEXICANSOUPSERVES4

Chilliescomeinallshapes,sizesandstrengthsandareusedthroughouttheworld,butifthere’sonecountrythathasturnedcookingthemintoanartform,it’sMexico.It’snotallaboutblowingyourheadoffwiththeirheat:theMexicansaremastersatbuildinglayeruponlayerofflavour.Thechipotleisasmokedanddriedjalapeñochilli,whichlendsseriousheattothisrusticsoup.Greatservedwithpicodegallodipandmyhome-madetortillachips.

Oliveoil,forfrying1redonion,peeledanddiced2tspcuminseeds,dry-toasted

1tspdriedoregano

2garliccloves,peeledandchopped2–4driedchipotlechillies,finelychopped,or1tbspchipotlechillipaste,totaste1tbsptomatopurée1×400gtinchoppedtomatoes

1×400gtincookedkidneybeans,drainedandrinsed

1tspsugar

500–750mlvegetableorchickenstock100gLancashirecheese,crumbled1ripeavocado,peeledandchopped½bunchofcoriander,roughlychoppedSeasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper1.Placealargeheavy-basedsautépanorhob-proofcasseroledishoveramediumheatandaddadashofoliveoil.Oncehot,frytheonionwithapinchofsaltandpepperuntilsoftened.Addthecuminseedsandoreganoandcookforafurther2minutes,oruntiltheseedsbecomearomatic.

2.Addthegarlicanddriedchillies(ifusing),cookfor2minutes,thenaddthetomatopurée.(Ifusingchipotlepaste,additwhenyouaddthepurée.)Stirovertheheatforaminuteortwo,thenaddthetomatoesandkidneybeansalongwiththesugar.Stirandbringtoasimmer,thenadd500mlofthestock.Bringtothe

boil,reducetheheatandgentlysimmerfor10–15minutes,untilthickenedslightlyandflavoursome.Addalittleextrastockifitthickenstoomuch.

3.Pourthesoupintowarmedservingbowlsandsprinklewiththecheese,avocadoandcoriander.

HOWTOMAXIMISEHEATFROMCHILLIESThelongerdriedchilliesarecooked,thehottertheywillbecome,astheyswellandreleasetheirheat.TheMexicansliketotemperthiswithanaturalfireblanketofavocadoandacreamyhardcheesesimilartoLancashire.

HOME-MADETORTILLACHIPSWITHPICODEGALLODIPSERVES4

PicodegalloisaMexicansalsamadeoftomato,onionandchilli.Itistraditionallymadewiththeredserranochilli,butIprefertheeasier-to-findgreenjalapeño.Remember,thehottestpartofanychilliisthemembranethatholdstheseeds,soscrapethisoutbeforechoppingifyouaresensitivetoheat.ThisisdeliciousalongsidetheSpicyMexicanSoup.

6largewheattortillawraps

Oliveoil,forbrushingSmokedpaprikaSeasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepperFORTHEPICODEGALLODIP

3ripetomatoes,finelydiced½redonion,peeledandfinelydiced1–2freshjalapeñochillies,or1–2tbspbottledjalapeñosinbrine,choppedSmallbunchofcoriander,finelychoppedJuiceof½lime1.Preheattheovento180°C/Gas4.Meanwhile,makethedip.Mixthetomatoesandoniontogetherinabowlandseasonwithsaltandpepper.Addthechillies,corianderandlimejuiceandmixwell.Tasteandadjusttheseasoningasnecessary,thenleavetostandfor15minutes.

2.Brushthetortillawrapswitholiveoilonbothsides,sprinkleeachsidewithsmokedpaprikaandapinchofsalt,thensliceintotriangles.Placeononeormorebakingsheetsinasinglelayerandbakefor3–4minutes,untilgoldenandcrisp.Setasidetocool.

3.Servethedipwiththetortillachipsalongside.

HOWTOHANDLECHILLIESWhenyou’vebeenchoppingchillies,rubyourhandswitholiveoilbeforewashingthem.Theoilhelpsdissolvethecapsaicin,thesourceofthechilli’sheat,whichismoresolubleinoilthaninwater,anditwillthenrinseawayeasily.

SMOKYBACON,SWEETCORNANDPOTATOSOUPSERVES4–6

Youcanmakeatastyandnourishingsoupoutofthehumblestingredients,asthissweetcornchowdershows.Iliketomakeitwithacombinationofcreamedcornandwholekernelssoithasgooddepthofflavourbutkeepsitschunkytexture.Youcanalwayspuréeitifyouprefer,addingthebitsofbaconattheend.ServewithmyAmerican-styleCheeseBiscuitstomakeitamealinitsownright.

Oliveoil,forfrying1onion,peeledanddiced4rashersofsmokedstreakybacon,chopped

intosmallpieces

2bayleaves

2potatoes,peeledanddicedinto1cmcubes1leek,trimmedandfinelychopped1×375gtincreamedcorn1×200gtinsweetcorn,drained750mlchickenorvegetablestock500mlwholemilk

Seasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper1.Placealargesaucepanorhob-proofcasseroledishoveramediumheat.Addadashofoilandfrytheonionuntilsoftened.Addthebaconandcontinuetocookuntillightlycoloured.Stirinthebayleaves.

2.Addthepotatoesandleekandcookfor5–7minutes,untiltheleekissoft.

3.Stirinthecreamedcornandsweetcorn,thenpourinthestockandmilk.Bringtoagentlesimmerandcookfor15minutes,oruntilthepotatoesarecompletelysoftandtheflavourwelldeveloped.Tasteandadjusttheseasoningasnecessary.Serveinwarmbowls.

STEAMEDMUSSELSWITHCHERRYTOMATOESANDPANCETTASERVES4Notreallyasoupassuch,butstillaperfectone-bowlmeal.YoucanaddsomanytwiststotheclassicFrenchmoulesmarinière.Traditionallyit’smadewithwhitewine,butI’veseenitwithGuinness,cider...younameit.I’musingsherryhere,whichgivesitmoreofaSpanishfeel.Throwinsomebacon,afewtomatoes,somefreshoregano,andyou’vegotadeliciouslightlunchorservewithSaffronFlatBreadsforamoresubstantialmeal.

Oliveoil,forfrying100gpancetta,choppedintolardonsorchunks1redchilli,sliced2garliccloves,peeledandbashed

300gcherrytomatoes

1.5kgmussels,scrubbedclean,beardsremoved(discardanythatdonotshuttightwhentapped)250mldrysherrySmallhandfuloforegano,finelychopped1.Placealargeheavy-basedcasseroledishorsaucepanoveramediumheatandaddadashofoil.Oncehot,frythepancettauntilcookedthroughandcrisping.

2.Addthechilliandgarlicandcookforafurther2minutes.Addthetomatoesandcookfor3–4minutes,oruntiltheyarewarmedthroughandbeginningtocollapseslightlyandblister.

3.Tipinthemusselsandoregano.Addthesherry,coverwithalidandcookfor4–5minutes,oruntilallthemusselshaveopened.Discardanythatremainshut.

4.Transfertoaservingbowlandserveimmediately.

USINGMUSSELSTherulewhencookingmusselsistodiscardanythataren’ttightlyshutbeforecookingandthentothrowoutanythatdon’topenduringcooking.

SAFFRONFLATBREADSSERVES4

I’veincludedthesesimpleflatbreadstogowiththeSpanish-inspiredSteamedMusselswithCherryTomatoesandPancettabecausesaffronisoneofSpain’smostfamouscropsandgoeswellwithsherry.Buttruthbetold,theymakeagreatlunchintheirownrightwithmaybeatubofhoumousortzatziki.Astheirnamesuggests,youdon’tneedtowaitforthedoughtorise,whichmeansthatflatbreadsareadoddletomake.

2generouspinchesofsaffronstrands

250gplainflour,plusextrafordusting

3tbspoliveoil

Seasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper

1.Putthesaffroninabowlandaddjustenoughhotwatertocoverit.Leavetosoakfor10minutes.

2.Placetheflourinamixingbowlwiththeoliveoilandacoupleofpinchesofsaltandpepper.Pourinthesaffronanditssoakingliquid,addanother100mlofwarmwaterandmixthoroughlyuntilyouhavealump-freedough.Ifthemixtureistoosticky,addalittlemoreflour;ifit’stoodry,addatinydropmorewarmwater.

3.Kneadthedoughfor2–3minutesonaflouredworksurfaceuntilsmoothandelastic.Placeinacleanbowl,coverandleavetorestatroomtemperaturefor15–20minutes.

4.Whenready,dividethedoughinto4equalpieces.Placeonaflouredworksurfaceanduseaflouredrollingpintorolleachpieceintoacircleabout2–3mmthick.

5.Placealarge,non-stick,heavy-basedfryingpanoveramediumheat.Whenhot,cooktheflatbreadsoneatatimefor1–2minutesoneitherside,untilgolden.Keepwarmwhilstyoucooktheremainingflatbreads.Servewarm,cut

intopieces.

AVOCADOANDBLACKSESAMESPRINKLEONSOURDOUGHSERVES4

Itdoesn’ttakemuchtoturnanavocadointoasimplemeal.AsatreatwhenIwasyoungIwouldoccasionallyhavehalfanavocadowithitshollowfilledwithWorcestershiresauce.Ithoughtthatwastheheightofsophistication,butavocadowithchilliandsesameseedsisevenbetter.It’sgreatasahealthy,lightbreakfastoryoucouldtopitoffwithasardinefilletifyouwantedtomakethisevenmoresubstantial.

4largeslicesofsourdoughbread

Zestandjuiceof1lemon2–4pinchesofchilliflakes,ortotaste1tbspblacksesameseeds

2ripeavocados

SeasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepperOliveoil1.Seasonthebreadwithsaltandpepperanddrizzlewithalittleoil.Toastorgriddlethebreaduntilgoldenbrown.

2.Meanwhile,mixtogetherthelemonzest,chilliflakesandsesameseedswithapinchofsaltandpepper.

3.Quartertheavocados,removingthestoneandpeelingofftheskin.Sliceeachquarterlengthways,leavingtheslicesjoinedatthetop.Fanouteachquarterandplace2onapieceoftoast,pushingdowntomakethemstick.

4.Squeezealittlelemonjuiceovertheavocado,thensprinklewiththesesameseedmixture.Eatimmediatelywhilestillwarm.

HOWTOSTONEANAVOCADOCuttheavocadoinhalflengthwaysandthenplacethehalfwiththestonestillattachedonaworksurface.Chopintothestonewithasharpknifeandyoushouldbeabletoeaseitout.

PEAR,GOAT’SCHEESEANDWALNUTTARTINESERVES4

IspentthreeyearsworkinginParisanditopenedmyeyestohowexcitinganopensandwichcouldbe.Whilefriendsbackhomeweretuckingintojamsandwichesfortheirtea,Iwasrevellinginwonderfultartineslikethis.Don’teventhinkofspoilingyourlovelygoat’scheeseorripepearswithcheapbread.NowisthetimetosplashoutonalovelysourdoughorcrustyFrenchbaguette.ThislovelytartineisaperfectaccompanimenttomyTunaNiçoiseSalad.

1baguetteorsmallsourdoughloaf

Oliveoil,forgriddling2pears,e.g.Williams,quartered,coredandthinlysliced150gFrench

goat’scheese,e.g.crottin,softorripe,cutintothesamenumberofslicesasthepearsFreshlygroundblackpepper4tbspwalnuts,roughlychoppedorcrumbled1.Preheatthegrillonitshighestsetting.

2.Ifusingabaguette,sliceitinhalfacrossthemiddleandtrimofftheveryends.Sliceeachhalfinto4piecestogive8intotal.Ifusingasourdoughloaf,cutitinto8slicesabout2cmthick.

3.Placeagriddlepanoverahighheat.Whenhot,drizzlewithalittleoilandlowertheheat.Addthebreadandtoastoneithersideuntillightlycrispandgolden.

4.Transferthetoaststoabakingsheet.Arrangethepearandcheeseslicesalternatelyoneachone.Seasonwithpepperandsprinklewiththewalnuts.Grillfor1–2minutes,untilthecheesehasmelted.Serveimmediately.

PRAWNTOSTADASERVES4Theseareallaboutthecontrastoftextures:succulentprawnsandsoft,ripeavocadomixedwithcrispradishesandservedonalovelycrunchytortillabase.InMexico,thetortillasarenormallydeepfriedinoil,butIfindtoastingtheminadrypanworksjustaswellandmakesthemmuchhealthier.Youcanalsomakethetostadasintheoven.Brushthemwithalittleoil,ifyoulike,andbakethemfor10–15minutesat180°C/Gas4.

400grawkingprawns,peeledanddeveined2garliccloves,peeledandfinelysliced1tspchilliflakes,ortotasteOliveoil

1–2ripeavocados,dependingonsize,peeled,stonedanddiced4springonions,trimmedandfinelychopped1redchilli,seededandfinelysliced8–12radishes,trimmedandquartered8–12cherrytomatoes,halved

Juiceof1lime2babygemlettuces,shreddedSmallbunchofcoriander,chopped

4cornflourtortillas

Seasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper1.Puttheprawns,garlicandchilliflakesintoabowlwithapinchofsaltandpepperandalittledrizzleofoliveoil.Mixwell,thensetaside.

2.Puttheavocados,springonions,chilli,radishesandtomatoesintoanotherbowlandmixtogether.Tasteandseasonwithsalt,pepperandhalfthelimejuice.Mixwell,stirinthelettuce,thenthecorianderandsetaside.

3.Heatadashofoilinaheavy-basedfryingpan.Extracttheprawnsfromtheirmarinadeandfrythemforabout2minutesoneachside,untiljustcookedthrough.Sprinklewiththeremaininglimejuiceandstir.

4.Toastthetortillasinadrypanuntilnicelycolouredandbeginningtocrispup.

5.Dividethesaladequallybetweenthetoastedtortillas,topwiththecookedprawnsandserve.

HOWTOPREPAREPRAWNS

HOWTOPREPAREPRAWNSFirst,twistoffthehead,thenpeeloffalltheshellandpulloffthetail.Withthetipofasharpknife,scoretheprawnalongthebackandliftouttheblackvein.Rinsethepreparedprawnsbeforeusing.

COURGETTEANDRICOTTABRUSCHETTESERVES4

Aneasyvegetarianlunchorstarterforasummerdinnerparty:freshlygriddledcourgettesontopofcreamyricottacheeseandcrunchyciabattatoast.Utterlysimplebututterlydelicious.

2courgettes,cutintodiagonalslices5mmthickOliveoil,fordrizzling

8thickslicesofciabattabread

4mintsprigs,leavesonly200gricottacheeseSeasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper1.Placethecourgettesinabowl

withaglugofoliveoilandacoupleofpinchesofsaltandpepperandtosstocoat.

2.Heatagriddlepanuntilreallyhot,addthecourgetteslicesinasinglelayer(they’llneedtobedoneinbatches)andcookuntilgoldenandstripedonbothsides.Transfertoaplateandsetaside.

3.Drizzlealittleoliveoiloneithersideofthebreadslices,andgriddleuntilgoldenandtoastedonbothsides.

4.Meanwhile,chopthemintleavesandplaceinabowlwiththericotta(reservingalittletouseasagarnish)andapinchofsaltandpepper.Mixwell,thentasteandadjusttheseasoningasnecessary.

5.Spreadthetoastwiththericottamixture,topwithslicesofcourgetteandgarnishwithmintleaves.Serveimmediately.

USINGRICOTTARicottaisagreatingredienttokeepinthefridgeasitworksforbothsavouryandsweetdishes.Trymixingitwithcookedspinachandnutmegandspreadingitoverpuffpastryforasimplepizza,oraddsugarandlemonzestandspoonitoverraspberriesforaquickdessert.

PANBAGNATSERVES4–6

ThisProvençalclassic–essentiallyasaladeNiçoiseinasandwich–istheFrenchequivalentofourCornishpasty,supposedlyahandywayforlabourerstotransportahealthylunch.Myversionisn’tentirelyauthentic.I’veaddedmozzarella,whichnoself-respectingFrenchmanwoulddo,andhavemadeitasonegiantsandwich,butwhenyoucutitopenyou’llseethatitcontainsallthatisgoodaboutsummer.

2courgettes,thinlyslicedOliveoil1largeroundwhiterusticloaf,e.g.paindecampagneorsourdough12

slicesofham,e.g.Parmaham2roastedredpeppers(bottledpeppers,drained,arefine)2ballsofbuffalomozzarella,drainedandtornintobite-sizedpieces200gsunblushorsundriedtomatoes,drainedSeasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepperFORTHETAPENADE

200gpittedblackolives,finelychopped1garlicclove,peeledandcrushed1tbspcapers,drainedandchopped4anchovyfillets,chopped

2tspredwinevinegar

1tbspextravirginoliveoil

1.Firstmakethetapenade.Puttheolives,garlic,capers,anchovies,oliveoilandvinegarinablenderandmixwell.(Ifmakingthisbyhandratherthaninafoodprocessor,youcancombineeverythinginamortar.)Tasteandadjusttheseasoningasnecessary.Setaside.

2.Meanwhile,placeagriddlepanoverahighheat.Oncehot,tossthecourgetteslicesinalittleoliveoil,saltandpepperandgriddlethemoneithersideuntilgoldenandcharred.Setasidetocoolslightly.

3.Slicea‘lid’offtheloafabout4cmfromthetop.Scoopoutthedoughymiddleofthebread,leavinga2.5cmshell.(Thebreadremovedcanbeturnedintocrumbsandfrozenforlateruse.)Spreadtheinsideoftheloafwiththetapenade.Storeanyextratapenadeinanairtightcontainerinthefridgeforuptoaweek.

4.LinetheinsidesoftheloafwiththeslicesofParmahamoverlappingthemandleavinganinchorsooverhangingatthetop.Arrangetheremainingingredientsinsidethepreparedshell,usingaquarterofthematatime,sothatyouhave4layersofeach:forexample,useaquarterofthepeppers,followedbyaquarterofthemozzarellaandsoonuntilyoureachthetopoftheloaf.FoldtheoverhangingedgesofParmahambacktothetopofthefillingtoencloseit.Placethelidfirmlyontopandwraptightlyinclingfilm.Chillfor2hours,orovernightifnotusingstraightaway.

5.Toserve,unwraptheloafandsliceintowedgesorthickslices.

PLOUGHMAN’SSALADSERVES4

Theploughman’shasbeenamainstayofpubmenussincetheFifties–quiterightlybecauseitwasaninstantclassicthemomentitwasdreamtupbytheCheeseMarketingBoard.Giventhechoiceofham,CheddarorStiltonIcannevermakeupmymind,soIthoughtwhynotcombineallthreeandtopitoffwithmyinstantBeerBreadloaves.

100gwatercress,excessstalkscutoff1romainelettuce,roughlysliced1Englisheatingapple,quartered,coredandcutintosmallchunks3celerysticks,trimmedandfinelysliced8–10radishes,trimmedandsliced6–8slicesofcookedham,tornintopieces100gbest-qualityCheddarcheese,e.g.Montgomery,cutintostripswithavegetablepeeler100gbest-qualityStilton,e.g.ColstonBasset,cutintosmallcubesFORTHEQUICKPICKLEDONION

1redonion,peeledandverythinlyslicedintorings½tbspgoldencastersugar

4cloves

2–3tbspredwinevinegarPinchofseasaltFORTHEDRESSING

½–1tspEnglishmustard,totaste

1tsprunnyhoney

2–3tbspwhitewinevinegar

4tbspoliveoil

Seasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper1.Firstmakethepickledonion.Puttheonionintoabowlandsprinklewiththesugar,cloves,vinegarandapinchofsalt.Tosswelltomix,placeasaucerorlayerofcling

filmovertheonionsandweighdownwithacanofjar.Leavewhileyoupreparethesalad,orforuptoanhour.

2.Tomakethedressing,putthemustard,honey,vinegarandoilintoabowl,addapinchofsaltandpepperandstirtocombine.Tasteandadjusttheseasoningasnecessary.Setaside.

3.Placethewatercress,lettuce,apple,celeryandradishesinabowlandmixtogether.Mixthedressingagain,pouritoverthesaladandtosstoensureeverythingislightlycoated.

4.Dotpiecesofthehamandcheesesoverthetop.Drainthepickledonionanddotthisovertoo.Tosslightlyandserve.

HOWTOLIGHTENDRESSINGSIfyoufindyourdressingisabitheavy(whichcansometimesbethecasewitholiveoilvinaigrettes),addsomegroundnutoiloratouchofwatertoloosen,orlightenit.

BEERBREADMAKES8MINILOAVES

Peopledon’tbelievemewhenIsayyoucanhavehome-madebreadonthetablewithin40minutes,buthere’stheproof.TheseminiloavesareakindofEnglishtakeonIrishsodabread,usingthefizzinessofthebeerastheraisingagent.Thebatterwillappearunusuallyrunnyforabreadmixbutdon’tworry,they’llcomeoutfine.Morethanthat,they’llbedelicious.TrythemwithmyPloughman’sSalad.

Butter,forgreasing175gself-raisingflour,plusextrafordusting

75gwholemealself-raisingflour

½tbspflakedseasalt,e.g.Maldon

250mlbeerorlager

1–2tbspmilk1.Preheattheovento180°/Gas4.Grease8miniloaftins(4.5×7.5×3cm),thendustwithflourandshakeoutanyexcess.

2.Siftthefloursintoamixingbowlandaddthesalt.Pourinthebeer,mixingasyoudoso,untilthemixtureisfreeoflumps.Thebatterwillappearunusuallyrunnyforabreadmix.

3.Dividethebatterbetweenthepreparedtins,fillingthemthree-quartersfull,placeonabakingsheetandbakefor30minutes.Brushthetopswithalittlemilkandalightdustingofflour(tohelpthetopscolournicely)andbakeforafurther5minutes,oruntilaskewerinsertedintothemiddleoftheloafcomesoutclean,andthebottomsoundshollowwhentapped.

4.Removetheloavesfromthetinsandcoolonawirerack.Theycanbeeatenwarmorcold,andwillkeepforacoupleofdaysinanairtightcontainer.

CHIPBUTTYSERVES4

Ah,thistakesmeback.Iusedtolovechipbutties–allthosedifferent-sizedchipssmotheredwithtomatoketchupandsandwichedbetweentwoslicesofsquishywhitebread.TheonlyconcessionI’vemadetomodernityistoroastthechipsinsteadofdeep-fryingthem,andtoseasonthemwithsmokedpaprika.Ithinkevenmynine-year-oldselfwouldhaveapproved.

Groundnutoil,forroasting750gpotatoes,e.g.Desirée,peeled1tspsmokedpaprika

8slicesofcrustywhitebread

Butter(optional)Tomatoketchup(optional)Seasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper1.

Preheattheovento220°C/Gas7.Oilabakingtray.2.Chopthepotatoesintobatons1cmthick.Blanchinboilingsaltedwaterfor3–4minutes,thendrainandplaceonthepreparedtrayinasinglelayer.

3.Drizzlethepotatoeswithoilandtosstocoatevenly.Seasonwiththesmokedpaprikaandsomesaltandpepper.Bakefor15–20minutes,turningnowandagaintoensureevencooking,untilgoldenandcrisp.

4.Spreadtheslicesofbreadwithbutter,orrubthemintheremnantsofpaprikaoilinthebakingtray.Sandwichthechipsinsidebread,addingketchupifyouwish,thensliceinhalfandserveimmediately.

HOWTOCHOOSEPOTATOESPotatoescomeinthreetypes:floury,waxyandall-rounders.FlourypotatoessuchasKingEdwardsarebestformashing,fryingandroasting.WaxypotatoeslikeCharlottesareperfectforboilingandinsalads.Andfinallythereareall-rounderssuchasDesirée,whichmakegreatovenchips.

WHENIFIRSTSTARTEDCOOKING,ALLTHEHIGH-ENDRESTAURANTSSERVEDRICH,FRENCHFOODWITHLOTSOFHEAVYSAUCESFULLOFCREAMANDBUTTER.

You’dseecustomerscomeinforfour-orfive-courselunchesandwonderhowonearththeyweregoingtostayawaketodoanafternoon’swork.Luckilythefashionsincethenhasbeentomakedishesmuchlighterandfresherbyusinglotsofrawingredients,herbsandcitrusflavours.That’ssomethingwetrytosticktoathometoo.ApartfromSundays,whenwe’llmakeitthemainmealoftheday,lunchisn’tthetimetogooverboard.Youwantsomethingtastyandsatisfyingthatwillgiveyouenergywithout

wantsomethingtastyandsatisfyingthatwillgiveyouenergywithoutweighingyoudown.

Peoplesometimestalkdisparaginglyabout‘ladieswholunch’–thoseglamorous,skinny-as-a-beanpolewomenwhopushastarter-sizeportionoffoodaroundtheirplatesandbarelytouchathing.Ithinkit’ssadwhensomeoneclearlydoesn’thaveanappetiteforgoodfood,butIhavetoadmitIthinkthey’vegottherightideawhenitcomestowhattheyareordering:lotsofsalads,lotsofvegetables,lotsofsimplygrilledfishorwhitemeat.That’sthekindofthingIliketomakeforlunchathometoo.AlthoughIdaresaymyportionsizesarebiggerthantheirs.

It’stakentheBritishalongtimetogetthehangofsalads.IrememberwhenImademyfirstseriesofKitchenNightmaresIhadasaladinonerestaurantwheretheyservedupahugebowllayeredwithiceberglettuce,unripetomatoes,thicklycutcucumberandacarpetofcressontop.Noseasoning,nodressing,nonothing.Whydidn’titsurprisemewhenIheardthecheflaterrefertosaladas‘rabbitfood’?Butwithabitofimagination,saladscanbewonderfulthings,especiallywhenyoutakeininfluencesfromaroundtheworldandpairunusualingredientstogether.We’reallfamiliarnowadayswithclassiccombinationslikeCaesarsaladorSaladeNiçoise,butfetaandwatermelon,orcarrot,cuminandorangeworkjustaswelltogether.OryoucantakethingsinaSouthAmericandirectionwithrawmackerelcevichewithfennelandgrapefruit.Japanisalsoagreatsourceofinspiration.TheJapanesehavealwaysfavouredlight,healthyfoodsandstickyteriyakisalmonwithasimplesobanoodlesaladmakesanideallunch.Herearesomesimpletipsforaperfectlightlunch.

ACLASSICVINAIGRETTEAclassicvinaigretteis3partsoilto1partvinegar.Itendtouseamixofoliveoilandgroundnutoilsoitendsuplessrichandgloopy.Alternatively,Imightletthevinaigrettedownwithalittlewatertolightenit.Youcanflavouryourvinaigrettewithanythingyoulike:garlic,wholegrainmustard,herbsanddifferent-flavouredoilssuchaswalnutarethemostobvious.

ASIMPLEASIANDRESSING

ASIMPLEASIANDRESSING

Ilovethisdressingwithgrilledchicken,salmonorprawns.Mixequalpartsofhoneyandsoysaucewithasplashofricevinegarandwhiskinsesameandgroundnutoiluntilyouhaveadressingtheconsistencyofanythingbetweenvinaigretteandmayonnaise.

HOWTODRESSASALAD

Thetwokeysarenottousetoomuchvinaigretteandnottodressyourleavesuntilthelastminuteorelsetheywillwilt.Ifindusingyourhandsisthebestwaytogentlycoatthem.AneattrickIlearntinFranceistomakeyourvinaigretteinthesaladbowl,startingbysmearingacutgarlicbulballaroundthebowlandusingawhisktocombinethevinegar,seasoningandoil.Thenyouplaceyoursaladserverscrossedoverinthebowltocreateakindofplatformtorestthesaladleaveson,clearofthevinaigrette.Thenwhenyouareready,yougiveitaquicktossandyouaregoodtogo.

GRILLING

Thisisagreat,healthywayofcookingmeatandfishasthefatdrainsawayasyoucook.Ifyouwanttogetthoseprofessional-lookingcharredgrillmarks,you’llneedaridgedgrillpan.Getthepanreallyhotbeforeyoustartcooking,thenbrushthefoodwithoilandpressdownontotheridges.Don’tbetemptedtomovethefoodaroundasitcooks.Thisisespeciallytrueoffish.Onceitiscooked,itwillreleaseitselffromthepan,butifyoutrytomoveittooearly,itmaystickandtear.

ANCHOVYDIPWITHCRUDITÉS

BURRATAWITHQUICKBALSAMICFIGJAMANDCROSTINI

BIGCAESARSALAD

HALLOUMI,COURGETTEANDHERBCAKES

SLOW-ROASTEDTOMATOANDWATERCRESSSALAD

ORZOPASTASALAD

GRILLEDSARDINESWITHGREMOLATA

TUNANIÇOISESALAD

CARROT,CUMINANDORANGESALAD

MACKERELCEVICHEWITHSHAVEDFENNELANDGRAPEFRUIT

QUINOASALAD

FETA,WATERMELON,CUCUMBERANDMINTSALAD

GRIDDLEDCHICKENTHIGHSWITHCHICKPEAS,PIQUILLOPEPPERSANDLEMONYDRESSING

PRAWNANDCUCUMBERSALADWITHSPICYYOGHURTDRESSING

SCOTCHEGGS

BEETROOT,CORIANDERSEEDANDORANGE-CUREDSALMONWITHAPPLEANDCELERIACSALAD

TERIYAKISALMON

SOBANOODLESALAD

BURRATAWITHQUICKBALSAMICFIGJAMANDCROSTINISERVES4BurrataisanextracreamymozzarellafromPugliaintheheelofItaly.It’sabeautifulcheesethatdeservestobethestarattraction,butithastobeeatenwhenit’sveryfresh.Allyouneedtogowithitarecrustybread,someslowroasttomatoesandtornbasilleaves,orperhapsthissimplebalsamicfigjam.

1smallciabattaloaf,sliced

3ballsofburratacheese

Zestof1lemon

Oliveoil,fordrizzlingSeasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper

FORTHEFIGJAM150gcastersugar500gripefigs,stalksremoved,roughlychopped

5wholestaranise

1–2tbspbalsamicvinegar,totaste

1.Firstmakethefigjam.Sprinklethesugar,apinchofsaltandthestaraniseintoaheavy-basedsautépanandcookoveramediumheatuntilthesugarbeginstocaramelise.Addthefigsandtossinthecaramel.Reducetheheatslightlyandadd1tablespoonofthevinegar.Simmergently,stirringuntilthejamhasthickenedandthefigshavealmostcompletelybrokendown.Removethestaranise.

2.Mashthefigswithapotatomasheruntiltheyhavecompletelycollapsed.Takeofftheheatandsetasidetocool.

3.Meanwhile,makethecrostini.Preheatagriddleuntilhot.Drizzletheslicesofciabattawithalittleoliveoilandseasonwithsaltandpepper.Placeonthegriddleandcookoneithersidefor1–2minutes,oruntiltoastedandlightlycharred.

4.Toserve,placetheburratainaservingbowl,seasonwithsaltandpepper,drizzlewitholiveoilandsprinklewiththelemonzest.Spreadthecrostiniwiththefigjamandoffertheburrataalongside.

BIGCAESARSALADSERVES4

Caesarsaladisaperennialfavouriteinourhousebutwithsomanymouthstofeed,Ialwayshavetosupersizeit.Addingaquicklygriddledchickenbreastisasimplewayofmakingitstretchfurther.Coatthecroutonsinalittledressingbeforeaddingthemtothelettuceandyou’llhaveexplosionsofflavourthroughout.

150–200gday-oldwhiterustic-stylebreadorsourdoughOliveoil50gParmesancheese2romainelettuceor4babygemlettuce,washed,dried,halvedandsliced2skinless,bonelesschickenbreasts,butterflied(seetip)SeasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepperFORTHEDRESSING

2free-rangeeggyolks

1tspDijonmustard

1tbspredwineorsherryvinegarOliveoil1×50gtinbest-qualityanchoviesinoliveoil2garliccloves,peeledand

finelycrushed75gParmesancheese,gratedJuiceof1lemon,ortotaste1.Chopthebreadinto2cmchunks.Lightly

drizzlewitholiveoilandseasonwithapinchofsaltandpepper,thentosstocombine.

2.Placealargefryingpanoveramediumheat,addadashofoilandfrythebreaduntilgoldenandcrisp.Gratethree-quartersoftheParmesanoverthecroutons,tosstogetherovertheheat,thentransfertoaplate.

3.Tomakethedressing,puttheeggyolks,mustardandvinegarintoabowlandwhisktogether.Slowlypourintheoliveoil,whiskingasyoudoso,untilthemixtureemulsifies.Finelychoptheanchoviesandmixwiththegarlictoformaroughpaste.Addtothedressingandmixwell.StirintheParmesan,lemonjuicetotaste,andalittlesplashofwater.

4.Putthelettuceintoaservingbowl,addasqueezeoflemonjuiceandhalfthedressing.Sprinkleoverhalfthecroutonsandmix.TopwiththerestofthecroutonsandfinishwiththeremainingParmesan.

5.Placeagriddlepanoveramedium-highheat.Seasonthechickenbreastsonbothsides,drizzlewithalittleoilandcookonthehotgriddlefor3–4minutesoneitherside,untilnicelystripedandcookedthrough.Transfertoaplate,sprinkleoversomeoftheremainingdressingandleavetorestfor5minutes.

6.Slicethechickenintodiagonalstripsandservewarm,eithermixedthroughoralongsidethesaladwithalittleextradressingspoonedover.

HOWTOBUTTERFLYACHICKENBREASTThepurposeofbutterflyingmeatistoopenitouttomakeitthinnerandquickertocook.Placethebreastonaboardand,usingaverysharpknife,slicealmostallthewaythroughithorizontally–itshouldremainjoineddownoneside.Thenopenitlikeabook,coverwithclingfilmandflattenwitharollingpinuntiluniformlythin.

flattenwitharollingpinuntiluniformlythin.

HALLOUMI,COURGETTEANDHERBCAKESSERVES4

Weknowhalloumias‘squeakycheese’inourhousebecauseofthenoiseitmakeswhenyoubiteintoit.Thegreatthingaboutitisthatitholdstogetherwellwhenyoucookit,makingitidealforthesevegetarianpatties.ServeitwiththeSlow-RoastedTomatoandWatercressSalad.

2carrots,peeledandgrated1courgette,grated500ghalloumicheese,grated2–4springonions,trimmedandfinelychopped

2tbspchoppedcorianderleaves

2tbspchoppedmintleaves

2free-rangeeggs,lightlybeaten2–4tbspbreadcrumbsOliveoil,forfryingSeasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper

FORTHECHILLIDRESSING1redchilli,finelyslicedonthediagonal2cmpieceoffreshrootginger,peeledandfinelydiced

2tspcastersugar

2–3tbspricewinevinegar2–3tbspoliveoilPinchofsalt

1.Tomakethehalloumicakesputthecarrotsandcourgetteinasieveorcolanderandsprinklewithadecentpinchofsalttodrawoutthemoisture.Placeoverabowltodrainfor5minutes,thentipintoacleanteatowelandsqueezeoutalltheexcesswater.

2.Putthehalloumi,carrotmixture,springonions,corianderandmintintoabowl,seasonandmixtogether.Addthebeateneggsandmixwell,thenstirin2tablespoonsofthebreadcrumbs.Themixtureshouldbestickyenoughtoformintopatties,ifit’snotstickyenoughaddsomemorebreadcrumbs.Shapethemixtureinto8largerpattiesabout1cmthick,or16smallerones.Tohelpshapethepattiesplacealargespoonfulofthemixontoaspoonandpressagainstyourhandandsqueezeoutanyexcessliquid.Leaveinthefridgeuncoveredforatleast20–25minutestofirmup.

3.Meanwhile,putallthedressingingredientsintoabowlandstirwelluntilthesugarhasdissolved.Tasteandadjusttheseasoningasnecessary.

4.Onceyou’rereadytocook,heatalargeheavy-basedfryingpanoveramediumheat.Addadashofoilandfrythehalloumicakes(inbatchesifnecessary)untildarkgoldenandcrisponeithersideandhotallthewaythrough.

5.Servethecakeshotwithspoonfulsofthechillidressingoverthetop.

HOWTOCHOPHERBSSoftherbs,suchasbasil,parsley,corianderandmint,canbruiseveryeasily,sotrytoensureyoucutthemonlyonce.Theeasiestwaytodothisistorollthemgentlyintoaballorcigarshape,andslicealongtheirlength.Don’tbetemptedtogobackoverthem–unlikerosemary,say,theyneverhavetobecutthatfine.

SLOW-ROASTEDTOMATOANDWATERCRESSSALADSERVES4

Tomatoes,watercressandshallots–oneofthesimplestcombinations,buttheflavoursworksowelltogether.Especiallyifyou’vetakenthetroubletoslowroastthetomatoesfirsttointensifytheirflavour.Isometimesdotheseinlargebatchesandkeeptheminoliveoilinthefridgeforaddingtosandwichesorothersalads.TheperfectaccompanimenttomyHalloumi,Courgette,andHerbCakes.

300gcherrytomatoes,inamixtureofcoloursifyouwish,cutinhalf2thymesprigs,leavesonly

2garliccloves,peeledandfinelysliced

Castersugar,forsprinklingOliveoil,fordrizzling

125gwatercress,wellwashed

½bananashallot,slicedintoringsAgedbalsamicvinegar,fordrizzlingSeasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper1.Preheattheovento150°C/Gas2.

2.Arrangethetomatoesinasinglelayer,cutsideup,inabakingtray.Sprinkleoverthethymeleaves,garlicandacoupleofpinchesofsugar.Seasonwithsaltandpepperanddrizzlewithoil.

3.Placeintheovenfor1–1½hours,untilthetomatoeshaveshrivelledup.

4.Oncereadytoserve,placethewatercressinaservingbowl,addtheshallotringsandtomatoesandmixwell.Drizzlewithalittleoliveoilandacoupleofsplashesofbalsamicvinegartotaste.Seasonandserve.

HOWTOVARYTHERECIPEIfyoudon’thaveanyshallotstohand,youcanusethinlyslicedonions.Soaktheminmilkorsaltedwaterfor20minutesfirsttomakethemless

Soaktheminmilkorsaltedwaterfor20minutesfirsttomakethemlessastringent.

ORZOPASTASALADSERVES4

Thepepperinessoftherocket,theperfumeofthebasilandtheacidityofthedressingworkbeautifullytogetherinthissalad.Orzolookslikebarley,butisactuallymadeofpasta.It’straditionallyusedtoaddbodytosoupsandcasserolesbutworksequallywellhere.Addingabayleaftothecookingwatergivesitanintriguingbackgroundflavour.ThissaladworkswellwithGriddledSardineswithGremolata.

200gorzo

1bayleaf

50–100gpinenutsLargebunchofbasil,chopped100grocket,roughlychoppedOliveoil,fordrizzlingSeasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper

FORTHEDRESSING30gParmesancheese,finelygratedZestof1lemon

6tbspextravirginoliveoil

1.Cooktheorzoaccordingtothepacketinstructions,butaddingthebayleaftothecookingwater.Whenaldente,drain,thenholdunderrunningcoldwaterforabout10secondstostopthecookingprocess.Discardthebayleaf,thendrizzletheorzowithalittleoliveoilandmixitthroughtostopthegrainsstickingtogether.

2.Meanwhile,makethedressinginyourservingbowl.MixtheParmesanwiththelemonzestandjuice.Add3tablespoonsoftheoilandmixwell.Tasteandseasonasnecessary,addingalittlemoreoilifneeded.

3.Toastthepinenutsinadryfryingpanoveramediumheatuntilgolden.Removeandsetasideuntilcool.

4.Whiletheorzoisstillslightlywarm,addittothedressingthenmixthroughtherocket,basilandpinenuts.Tasteandadjusttheseasoningasnecessary,andserve.

HOWTOZESTCITRUSFRUITPlaceafour-sidedgrateronaplate.Usingthesidewiththesmallestholes,rubthefruitdownitinlong,sweepingstrokes,turningthefruitalittleaftereachstrokesoyoudon’tgrateanyofthebitterwhitepith.

GRIDDLEDSARDINESWITHGREMOLATASERVES4Ilovesardines:theyaresuchahealthybutunder-ratedfish.Myfavouritewayofeatingthemischarredandblisteredfromabeachsidebarbecue,butfailingthat,thisrecipeisprettyspecialtoo.GremolataisatypicalItaliancondimentmadeoflemonzest,garlicandparsleywhichisservedwithfishorgrilledmeats.I’veaddedalittleorangeheretooasitworkssowellwiththesardines.TheOrzoPastaSaladwillgowiththisperfectly.

12–16sardines(dependingonsize),scaledandguttedOliveoil,fordrizzling

Bunchofrosemary–12–16sprigsSeasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper

FORTHEGREMOLATA

Bunchofparsley,leavesonly,choppedZestandjuiceof1lemonZestandjuiceof½orange1garlicclove,peeledandfinelygratedorcrushedOliveoil1.Drizzlethesardineswithalittleoliveoilandseasonwithsalt.Insertasmallsprigofrosemaryinthestomachcavityofeachone.

2.Placeagriddlepanoverahighheat.Whenhot,addthesardines(inbatchesifnecessary)andcookfor2–3minutesoneachside,untilnicelymarkedandcookedthrough.

3.Meanwhile,puttheparsleyinabowl,addthecitruszestandjuice,thegarlicandadrizzleofoliveoil.Stirwell,thentasteandseasonwithapinchofsaltandpepperifnecessary.

4.Servethesardineswiththegremolataspoonedontop.

TUNANIÇOISESALADSERVES4

ThisisaclassicFrenchsalad,whichyou’lloftenseesmartenedupinrestaurantswithfreshlysearedtuna,butIthinkitismuchbettermadethewaytheFrenchintended,withtinned.Withitsripetomatoesandnaturallyblackolives,it’sfulloftheflavoursofProvence.TheonlytwistIliketodoistoincorporatetheanchoviesintothedressingratherthanlayingthemontop.Thatwayyougettoenjoythelovelysaltykickthroughoutthesalad.AperfectaccompanimenttothissaladisthePear,Goat’sCheeseandWalnutTartine.

8newpotatoes(halvedorquarterediflarge)

500ggreenbeans,trimmed

Extravirginoliveoil,fordrizzling

4free-rangeeggs

2babygemlettuce,cutintowedges320gbest-qualitytinnedtunainoliveoil,drainedandflaked75gblackolives,preferablyFrench,roughlytorn250gbabyplumtomatoes,halvedSeasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper

FORTHEDRESSING1tspDijonmustard1tbspcapers

5best-qualityanchoviesinoliveoil

1garlicclove,peeledandroughlychopped2tbspredwinevinegar

4tablespoonsextravirginoliveoil

Smallhandfulofparsleyleaves,finelychopped

1.Putthepotatoesintoapanofcoldwaterwithapinchofsalt,bringtotheboil,thenboilfor6–7minutes.Addthegreenbeansandcontinuetoboilfor3–5minutes,oruntilboththepotatoesandbeansaretender.Draininacolander,thenseasonanddrizzlewithalittleoil.Setaside.

2.Meanwhile,boiltheeggsingentlyboilingwaterfor7minutes,oruntilalmosthard-boiled.Drain,thenfillthepanwithcoldwater,taptheeggsagainstthesidetocracktheshellsandleavetositinthewatertocool.

3.Tomakethedressing,putthemustard,capers,anchoviesand2teaspoonsoftheiroilintoamortarandpoundtoapaste.Addthegarlicandagoodpinchofpepperandmixagain.Finally,addthevinegar,oliveoilandparsleyandmixwell.

4.Halvethepotatoes,thenpeelandslicetheeggs.

5.Toserve,place2tablespoonsofthedressingonalargeservingplatterorinashallowbowl.Arrangetheingredientsasyouprefer,drizzlingwiththedressingasyougo.Finishwiththeremainingdressing.

HOWTOCHOOSEBLACKOLIVESAlwaystrytobuygenuinelyblackolives,whichhavebeenleftonthetreestoripennaturallyandareactuallymoreofadarkgreenybrown.Theuniformlyglossyblackonesyouoftenseearesimplygreenolivespaintedwithablackdye.

CARROT,CUMINANDORANGESALADSERVES4

Thisisalovelysunny-lookingsaladtypicalofMorocco.It’salsothatrarething–asaladthatgetsbetterforstandingaroundabitandallowingtheflavourstomingle.Servewithgrilledmeatorfish.

5carrots,peeledandgratedZestandjuiceof1orange75gpumpkinseeds

50gsunflowerseeds1½tspcuminseeds,toasted1tbspDijonmustard

1tbsprunnyhoney

1tbspwhitewinevinegar

3–4tbspoliveoil2tbsptorncorianderleaves

2tbsptornmintleaves

Seasalt

1.Mixthecarrotsinabowlwiththeorangezestandjuice,thepumpkinandsunflowerseeds.

2.Grindthecuminseedswithalittleseasaltusingapestleandmortar,thenstirthemintothecarrotmixture.

3.Combinethemustard,honey,vinegarandoliveoilinabowl.Addthemintandcorianderleaves,thentasteandadjusttheseasoningasnecessary.Pouroverthesaladandtosswell.Thiscanbeeatenstraightaway,orwillkeepforupto2daysinthefridge.

MACKERELCEVICHEWITHSHAVEDFENNELANDGRAPEFRUITSERVES4

CevicheisaSouthAmericandishofrawfishmarinatedinamixtureofcitrusjuiceandherbsandspices.Itisincrediblylightandhealthy,especiallywhenmadewithanoilyfishlikemackerel,whichisfullofomega3.Makesureyouusethefreshestfishyoucanfindanddon’tdressituntilyouarereadytoeatoritwill‘cook’inthegrapefruitjuiceandgomushy.ThisislovelyservedalongsideQuinoaSalad.

2pinkgrapefruit

Oliveoil,fordrizzling1fennelbulb,withfrondsifavailable2mackerelfillets,extremelyfresh,

pin-bonedSmallbunchofcoriander,leaveschoppedZestandjuiceof1lime

Seasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper1.Firstmakethesalad.Finelygratethegrapefruitzestandsetitaside.Cutoffanddiscardtheskinandpith.Segmentthefleshbyslicingitbetweenthemembraneandplaceitinabowl.Squeezeoverthejuicesfromanybitsoffleshstillattachedtothemembrane,seasonwithsaltandpepper,addadrizzleofoliveoilandmixtogether.

2.Arrangethegrapefruitinconcentriccirclesonaservingplate,reservingthedressinginthebowl.

3.Roughlychopthefennelfrondsandsetaside.Peeloffanddiscardtheouterlayerofthefennel,thenuseapeelerormandolinetocutthinstripsfromthebulb.Placeinabowloficedwaterfor5–10minutestocrispup.

4.Meanwhile,maketheceviche.Spoonhalfthegrapefruitdressingoveraservingplate.Cutthemackerelintoslices5mmthickandplacethemontopofthedressing.Seasonwithapinchofsaltandpepper,thensprinklewithhalfthegrapefruitzest,corianderandfennelfronds.

5.Drainthefennelanddrywithkitchenpaper.Placeitontopofthegrapefruitandsprinklewiththeremaininggrapefruitzest,coriander,fennelfronds,limezestandjuice.Seasonwithapinchofsaltandtheremaininggrapefruitdressing.Drizzlewithalittlemoreoliveoilandservewiththeceviche.

QUINOASALADSERVES4

Quinoaisaslightlynuttygrainthatmakesagreatalternativetocouscous,riceorlentils.HereI’veturneditintoasimplesalad,basedonaverypopulardishweserveatBreadStreetKitchen.IfyouareservingthiswiththeMackerelCevichewithShavedFennelandGrapefruit,youcoulddressitwiththesamemarinade.

200gquinoa

50gflakedalmonds

½largecucumber125gcherrytomatoes,halved50graisins

4springonions,trimmedandfinelychopped

Bunchofmint,leavesonlyJuiceof1limeOliveoil,fordrizzlingSeasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper1.Cookthequinoaaccordingtothepacketinstructions,thendrainandspreadoutonalargeplateortraytocoolquickly.

2.Toastthealmondsinadryfryingpanuntilgoldenandplaceinasaladbowl.

3.Usingavegetablepeeler,takelengthwaysstripsofskinoffthecucumbersothatitlooksstripy.Cutitinhalflengthways,thenspoonoutanddiscardtheseeds.Chopthecucumberintohalf-moonslicesandaddtothealmondsinthesaladbowl.

4.Addthetomatoes,raisins,springonionsandhalftheminttothebowl.Thenaddthecookedquinoaandmixeverythingtogether.Seasonwellwithsaltandpepper.Dressthesaladwiththelimejuiceandagooddrizzleofoliveoil.

5.Tasteandadjusttheseasoningasnecessary.Garnishwiththeremainingmintleavesandserve.

FETA,WATERMELON,CUCUMBERANDMINTSALADSERVES4

Unusualasthissaladsounds,itreallyworksbecauseofthepairingofsaltyfetawithsweetwatermelon.InGreece,whereitoriginates,they’lloftenthrowinsomeblackolivestoobutIlikethecrunchyougetfromthetoastedpecans.Don’tmakethissaladaheadorthesaltycheeseandnutswilldrawthemoistureoutofthewatermelon,makingthemallsoggy.PairthissaladwithGriddledChickenThighswithChickPeas,PiquilloPeppersandLemonyDressing.

50gwholepecannuts

1ripewatermelon,fleshcutintochunks,anyseedsandwhitepartsdiscarded1cucumber,peeled,deseededandchoppedintochunks

200gbest-qualityfetacheese

Extravirginoliveoil,fordrizzlingSmallbunchofmint,leavesonly,roughlychopped

1tspgroundsumac

Juiceof1lemon

Seasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper1.Breakupthepecansandlightlytoastinadryfryingpanwithapinchofsaltuntilgolden.Removeandlightlycrushinapestleandmortar.Leavetocool.

2.Placethewatermeloninaservingbowlandmixinthecucumber.Crumbleinthefetaandmixwell,seasoningwithalittlesaltandpepperandadrizzleofoliveoil.Addthemintleaves,pecans,sumacandlemonjuicetotaste.Tosslightlyandserve.

GRIDDLEDCHICKENTHIGHSWITHCHICKPEAS,PIQUILLOPEPPERSANDLEMONYDRESSINGSERVES4

Don’tautomaticallyturntochickenbreastsoverotherpartsofthebird.Chickenthighsarefantasticallytastytoo,andbecausetheyarericherandmorerobust,theycanstanduptopunchyflavoursbetter.Withitsmixofchickpeas,capersandpiquillopeppers,thisiscasualSpanishcookingatitsbestandwouldbeagreatsummerymealservedwiththeFeta,Watermelon,CucumberandMintSalad.

4bonelesschickenthighs,skinonOliveoil,fordrizzling1×200gjarpiquilloorroastedredpeppers,drained,cutintostrips1×

400gtincookedchickpeas,drained8–12caperberries,stalksremoved,halvedSmallbunchofbasil,leavesonly,roughlytornSeasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepperFORTHEDRESSING

1tspDijonmustard

4tbspextravirginoliveoil

Juiceof1lemon

1.Placeagriddlepanoverahighheat.Putthechickenonaplateanddrizzlewithalittleoliveoil.Seasonwithsaltandpepperandtosswelltocoat.Placeinthehotgriddlepan,skinsidedown,andcookfor4–5minutes,untiltheskinisdarkgolden,crispandmarkedwithgriddlelines.Lowertheheatandturnthechickenover.Cookforafurther6–8minutes,turningnowandagain,untilthechickeniscookedthrough.Removeandsetasidetorestforafewminutes.

2.Tomakethedressingputthemustardintoabowl,addtheoliveoil,lemonjuiceandsaltandpepper.Mixwell,thentasteandadjusttheseasoningasnecessary.

3.Placethepeppersstrips,chickpeasandcaperberriesinasaladbowlandmixwell.Tasteandadjusttheseasoningasnecessary.

4.Mixthebasilintothechickpeasalad,thenpourinthree-quartersofthedressing.Slicethechickenintochunkyslicesandplaceontopofthesalad.Tosslightly,drizzleovertheremainingdressingandserve.

HOWTOGRIDDLEWheneveryouuseagriddlepan,alwayspressdownhardwhatyouarecookingandholditthereforafewseconds.Thiswillhelpachievethosecharacteristicscorchlines,whichnotonlylookattractivebutmeanmoreflavour.

2tbspsweetchillisauce

Zestandjuiceof1lime1tspgoldencastersugar

4tbspnaturalyoghurt

1.Firstmakethedressing.Place1tablespoonofthefishsauceinabowl(orajarifyouaretakingthisonapicnic)andaddthechillisauce,limezestandjuiceandthesugar.Mixwell.Addtheyoghurtaspoonfulatatime,stirringasyoudoso,thentasteandaddalittlemorefishsauceifneeded.

2.Place1tablespoonofthedressinginasaladbowl.Sittheprawns,cucumberandlettuceontop.Coverandsetaside(inthefridgeifnotrequiredforafewhours).

3.Justbeforeserving,pourtheremainingdressingoverthesaladandtosswell.

SCOTCHEGGSSERVES4

Scotcheggsaretheultimateall-in-onesnack,deliciousontheirownorservedwithaspoonfulofchutney.Theblackpuddingandgratedappleworkreallywelltogetherandtakethissimplepicnicfoodtoanotherlevel.Makesureyouuseflakypankobreadcrumbsasthisisthesecretofalovelycrispygoldencoating.

6free-rangeeggs

200gbest-qualitysausagemeat

200gbest-qualityblackpudding,skinremoved,meatcrumbled½GrannySmithapple,grated

4tbspplainflour

150gpankobreadcrumbs

Flavourlessoil,e.g.groundnutorsunflower,fordeep-fryingSeasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper

1.Place4oftheeggsinapanofboilingwaterandboilfor4½minutes.Drain,thenfillthepanwithcoldwater,taptheeggsagainstthesidetocracktheshellsandleavetositinthewatertocool.

2.Meanwhile,mixtogetherthesausagemeat,blackpuddingandappleuntilwellcombined.Dividethemixtureinto4equalpiecesandshapeintoflattenedovals.

3.Placetheflourinashallowdishandseasonwithsaltandpepper.Beattheremaining2eggsinanotherdish,andplacethebreadcrumbsinathirdshallowdish.

4.Peeltheboiledeggs,thenplaceeachoneinthemiddleofasausagemeatovalandpressthemixturearoundthemuntiltheyareevenlycovered.

5.Poura4cmdepthofoilintoasautépanandheatuntilitbeginstoshimmer.

6.Meanwhile,dustthemeat-coveredeggsinflour,shakingoffanyexcess.Rollinthebeatenegg,allowinganyexcesstodripoff.Finally,coatinthebreadcrumbs,pressingtheminsothattheyreallystick.

7.Shallow-frytheeggsfor10–12minutes,turningoften,untilgoldenandcrispontheoutsideandcookedthroughinside.Servewarmorcold.

HOWTOPEELAHARD-BOILEDEGGTheeasiestwayistocracktheshellandthenleaveitincoldwaterforacoupleofminutes.Thewaterwillseepinsidetheshell,makingiteasytoslipoff.

BEETROOT,CORIANDERSEEDANDORANGE-CUREDSALMONWITHAPPLEANDCELERIACSALADSERVES8–10

SalmonwasaluxurywhenIwasgrowingupbutnowadaysithasbecomealmostcommonplace,sohere’sarecipetoputtheexcitementbackintoit.Theoutsideofthesalmontakesonthedeepredofthebeetrootandlooksstunningonceitissliced.TheappleandceleriacsaladisbasedontheclassicFrenchsalad,remoulade,butI’veaddedthematchsticksofappletocounterthesharpnessofthelemon.Putthesalmonandsaladtogetherandit’samatchmadeinheaven.

800gmiddlepieceofsalmonside,scaledbutskinonRyebread,toasted,toserve

FORTHECURE

2tbspcorianderseeds

250grawbeetroot,peeledandgratedZestof2oranges100gfineseasalt100gcastersugarFreshlygroundblackpepperFORTHEAPPLEANDCELERIACSALAD

Juiceof1lemon1large,firmceleriac,peeled2–3GrannySmithapples(dependingon

size),quarteredandcored300mlsourcream

2tbspgood-qualitymayonnaise

Smallbunchofparsley,leavesonly,finelychoppedSeasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper2tbsppoppyseeds,togarnish

1.Takeabakingdishorroastingtraylargeenoughtofitthesalmonandlineitwithclingfilm.Trimthesidesofthesalmonifnecessarytoneatentheedges,thenplaceinthedish,skinsidedown.

2.Tomakethecure,breakupthecorianderseedsusingamortarandpestle.Placeinabowlwiththebeetroot,orangezest,fineseasalt,sugarandacoupleoftwistsofblackpepperandmixwell.

3.Spreadthecuremixtureoverthesalmon,makingsurethefleshiscompletelycovered.Coverwithasheetofclingfilmandsitanotherdishortraydirectlyontopofthat.Weighthisdownwithsometinsoraheavypanandleaveinthefridgefor8hoursorovernight.

4.Meanwhile,makethesalad.Putthelemonjuiceintoalargebowl.Slicetheceleriacandappleintomatchsticks,andtossimmediatelyinthelemonjuicetopreventthemfromgoingbrown.

5.Inaseparatebowl,mixtogetherthesourcream,mayonnaiseandparsley.Seasonwithsaltandpepper,thenaddtotheceleriacandmixwell.Tasteandadjusttheseasoningasnecessary.

6.Oncereadytoserve,removethesalmonfromthecure,wipingoffanyexcess.Placethefishonachoppingboard,skinsidedown,andthinlyslicethefleshatanangleintopiecesabout1–2mmthick,flickingyourknifewhenyoureachtheskintoslicethefleshawayfromit.Transferthesalmonpiecestoaplate.

7.Garnishtheappleandceleriacsaladwiththepoppyseedsandservealongsidetheslicedsalmonwithsometoastedryebread.

TERIYAKISALMONSERVES4

Givenhowmuchsalmonweeatathome,I’malwaystryingoutnewwaysofservingit,andthisismycurrentfavourite.It’samazinghowmuchflavourthesalmontakesonafterjust20minutesinthesweetandsaltymarinade,andit’sevenbetterifyoucangiveittwohours.Rememberalwaystocookfishskin-sidedownatfirsttoprotectthedelicatefleshfromtoomuchheat.ServewithgarlictenderstembroccoliandperhapsSobaNoodleSalad.

2cmpieceoffreshrootginger,finelysliced2garliccloves,peeledandfinelysliced

3tbspsoysauce

2tbspmaplesyrup

1tbspmirin(ricewine)Oliveoil4salmonfillets(about500gintotal)Seasaltandfreshlygroundpepper1.

Putthegingerandgarlicintoabowlandmixwiththesoysauce,maplesyrup,mirinandadrizzleofoliveoil.

2.Placethesalmonfilletsinadish,seasonwithsaltandpepperandpourthestickydressingoverthem.Coverwithclingfilmandsetasideinthefridgetomarinateforupto2hours,butatleast20minutes.

3.Placealargefryingpanoveramediumheatandaddadashofoil.Whenhot,addthesalmon,skinsidedown,reservingthemarinade.Cookfor2minutes,thenpourinthereservedmarinadeandcookforafurtherminuteorso,untilthesalmonfilletsareopaquehalfwayupthesides.Turnthemoverandcookontheothersidefor3–4minutes,bastingwiththesaucesothatthesalmoniswellcoated.Addasplashofwaterifthesauceistoothick.

4.Servethesalmonfilletsonindividualplates,spooningoveranyteriyakisauceleftinthepan.

SOBANOODLESALADSERVES4

Awholesome,fillingsidedishofbuckwheatnoodlesservedwithfreshvegetablesanddressedwithakindofJapanesevinaigretteofsesameoil,ricevinegar,soysauceandlemonjuice.Doaddthenoriseaweedifyoucan.Itgivesthefinisheddisharealdepthofflavour.AperfectdishtoaccompanyTeriyakiSalmon.

300gsobanoodles

100gkale,stalksremoved,leavesshreddedortorn150gsugarsnappeas,toppedandtailed,halvedlengthways3carrots,peeledandslicedintoribbons(useavegetablepeeler)

2springonions,trimmedandfinelychopped

3cmpieceoffreshrootginger,peeledandfinelysliced

1tbspsesameoil

1–2tspricevinegar1–1½tbspsoysauceJuiceof½lemon1sheetofnoriseaweed,finelysliced(optional)Seasaltandfreshly

groundpepper1.Cookthesobanoodlesaccordingtothepacketinstructions.Whenalmostcooked,addthekale,sugarsnapsandcarrotstothepantoblanch.Drainoncethenoodlesaretender.

2.Addalltheremainingingredientstothenoodlemixture,seasonwithalittlesaltandpepper,stirwellandserve.

EVERYONENEEDSALITTLESWEETSOMETHINGEVERYNOWANDAGAIN.

Whetherasatreatinalunchboxoraspartofanold-fashionedtea-timespread.Mymumranatea-roominStratforduponAvonwhenIwasgrowingup,andthesmellofcakesandbiscuitsastheycomeoutoftheovenstilltakesmerightback.Foralotofus,thiswaswherewefirsttriedourhandatcooking,helpingtomakeaVictoriaspongeortrayofflapjacksandgettingtolickthebowlafterwards.It’scertainlyagreatwaytogetchildreninterested.It’simportantforthemtolearnthatcookingsavouryfoodcanbejustasrewarding,butthatasweettreatwon’tdoyouanyharmaslongasitisanoccasionalindulgence.Allofmychildrenhaveenjoyedrollinguptheir

isanoccasionalindulgence.Allofmychildrenhaveenjoyedrollinguptheirsleevesandgettingstuckin.

We’vegotagoodrepertoireofcakesandbiscuitsinthiscountry,butinthischapterIwantedtoexploresomerecipesfromothercountriessuchasAmerica,FranceandTurkey.Italwaysamazesmehowdifferentnationscanputdifferenttwistsonthings.Noneoftheserecipeshavetobeeatenattea-time,ofcourse.TheLemonandPoppySeedMadeleines,forexample,aregreatatbreakfast,too,andIcan’timagineanyonecomplainingaboutbeingservedasliceofChocolateandMintCaramelcakeforpudding.

Whereasinmostsavourycookingyoucanexperimentwiththeproportions,addinglessormoreofeachingredientaccordingtotaste,withbakingyoudohavetobemoreprecise.Bakingisascience,inwhichtheingredientsreactagainsteachothertoachievetheresultyouwant–theriseofasponge,forexample–andyoumesswiththeproportionsatyourperil.Ifyoudohavetroublewitharecipethathasn’tperformedthewayyouexpected,thisisalwaysthefirstthingtocheck.Didyouweigheverythingoutproperly?Overleafareafewmoretipsthatwillapplyeithertotheserecipesormoregeneralbaking.

BAKINGTINSBuytheheaviestyoucanastheywillheatupevenly.Topreventfoodsticking,eitherbutterandlinethemwithgreaseproofpaper,orbutteranddustthemwithflour.Youcanalsogetsiliconemuffintraysnowadays,whichareveryeasytoturnout,butyoucan’tusethemtomakeotherthingslikeYorkshirepuddings,obviously.

BUTTER

IprefertouseunsaltedbutterinmysweetcookingasIfinditcreamsbetteranditalsomeansthatifIwanttoaddapinchofsalt(whichhelpstoaccentuatethesweetness)Iamincontrolofhowmuchtoadd.Oneofthemostimportantthingswhenmakingacakeistohaveallyouringredientsatroomtemperature.Ifyourbutteristoohard,itwon’tcreamproperlyandthenyouwillstruggletoincorporatetheairitneedstorise.Don’tputitinthemicrowave,butyoucancutitintocubesandputitinlukewarmwaterforafewminutes.

FLOUR

Plainflourismadefromwheat,butyoucanexperimentwithdifferenttypes.Alittlechestnutflourworksbeautifullyincakes.I’magreatfanofwholemealorspeltflours,whichretainmoreofthehusk.Theytendtobeabitheavierthanplainflourbutcangiveanicenuttinesstobiscuitsormuffins.Ifyouwantyourdishtorise,forexample,inamuffinorAmericanpancake,youwillneedtouseself-raisingflour,whichisplainflourwithbakingpowderadded.Plainflourwillkeepindefinitely,butself-raisingdoeshaveause-bydatebecausetherisingagentswillbecomelesseffectivewithtime.Ifyouwanttomakeyourownself-raisingflour,add2teaspoonsofbakingpowdertoevery150gofplainflourandmixwell.

GOLDENSYRUPAgreatadditiontobiscuitsasitaddsachewinesstothefinishedtexture.Youcanalsoaddaspoonfultoyoursugarwhenmakingcaramelasitinterfereswiththeformationofsugarcrystalswhichcanmakeyourcaramelseize.

SUGAR

Differentsugarsallhavedifferentqualities.Muscovadoisstickyandtreacly,sogreatforbiscuits,fruitcakesandpickles.Powderyicingsugardissolveseasilysoisidealforbuttercreamsandicings.Palmsugar,madefrompalmtreesap,usuallycomesasapasteandaddsacaramellyflavourtosweetandsavouryAsiandishes.Demerarahaslargercrystalstoaddcrunchtothingslikecookies,crumblesandflapjacks.Andthenthereiscastersugar,halfwaybetweengranulatedandicingsugarandtheultimateforbaking.

WORKINGWITHPASTRY

Youshouldalwayschillpastryafterithasbeenrolledoutintothetarttintopreventitfromshrinkingintheoven.Ifyouaregoingtobeaddingarunnyfillingthatwillmakethepastrysoggy,recipesusuallycallforitbeblindbaked.Thismeansfillingthecasewithceramicbakingbeans(orlentilsorrice)toweighthepastrybasedownandstopitpuffingup.Normallyafterabout15minutes’cooking,youwillremovethebeansandcontinuetoblindbakethecaseuntilitisgolden.Nowyoucanaddthefillingandreturnittotheovenwithoutfearofthepastrybeingsoggyonthebottom.

LEMONANDPOPPYSEEDMADELEINES

PEARANDCRUNCHYGRANOLAMUFFINS

PEANUTBUTTERANDJAMCOOKIES

DULCEDELECHEBISCUITS

CRANBERRY,MARSHMALLOWANDPEANUTCHOCOLATEFRIDGECAKE

LEMONANDPISTACHIOBAKLAVA

CHOCOLATEANDMINTCARAMELCAKE

SALTEDCARAMELPOPCORN

LEMONANDPOPPYSEEDMADELEINESMAKES16

IfellinlovewiththesedelicatespongecakeswhenIworkedinFranceandwouldoftentreatmyselftoacoupleforbreakfastafteranightshiftmakingbread.Thebatterwillkeepinthefridgeovernightifyouwanttobakethemfirstthinginthemorning(don’tforgettomixthebatteragainfirst);otherwise,theymakeagreattea-timetreat.Ifyoudon’thaveamadeleinepan,youcanalwaysuseasmallmuffintin,butbearinmindthatthespongeswon’thavethatlovelyshellshapethatmakesthemsospecial.

75gunsaltedbutter,meltedandcooledslightly,plussoftenedbutterforgreasing2tbspplainflour,fordusting

75gcastersugar

3free-rangeeggs

75gself-raisingflour

1½tbsppoppyseedsFinelygratedzestof2lemons

1.Preheattheovento180°C/Gas4.Brush2madeleinetrayswithsoftenedbutter,dustwithsiftedplainflour,thentapouttheexcess.

2.Placethesugarandeggsinalargebowlandwhisktogetherforatleast5minutes,oruntilpale,thickandthemixtureholdsatrailonthesurfacewhenthebeatersarelifted.

3.Carefullysifttheself-raisingflourovertheeggmixture,thensprinklewiththepoppyseedsandlemonzest.Pourthemeltedbutterdowntheinsideedgeofthebowland,usingaspatula,quicklyandgentlyfoldtheingredientstogether.Becarefulnottoknockouttoomuchair.

4.Transferthebattertoajugandpoursomeintoeachindentofthepreparedtrays,fillingthemtothetop.Bakefor8–10minutes.

5.Transferthemadeleinestoawirerackandleavetocool.Theyareattheirbestwhenservedwarm.

HOWTOMAKETHEPERFECTSPONGEThesecretofalight,airyspongeistoincorporatelotsofairintoyourmix.Itisessentialthatyouwhisktogethertheeggsandsugartogetherforagoodfiveminutesonfullspeed,untilitisthickandpale.Timeinvestednowwillimmeasurablyimprovetheendresult.

PEARANDCRUNCHYGRANOLAMUFFINSMAKES16

TheAmericanmuffinhaswellandtrulytakenoverfromitsdoughyEnglishcounterpart,andsincespendingmoretimeintheStates,thewholefamilyhasdevelopedatasteforthem.Iliketheseonesbecausetheyaren’tassweetassomeandthecrunchymueslitoppinggivesthemanevenhealthierfeel.Andthebeautyofthisrecipeisthatyoucanmakethebatter,refrigerateitthenightbeforeyouneedit,thenmixitagaininthemorningandbake!Greatatanytimeofday,frombreakfastthroughelevensestoafternoontea.

300gself-raisingflour,sifted

1tspbakingpowder

1tspgroundcinnamon

Pinchofseasalt

125glightmuscovadosugar250mlwholemilk2free-rangeeggs,beaten100gbutter,melted2smallripepears,peeled,coredandcutintosmallpieces100gcrunchy

granola1.Preheattheovento180°C/Gas4andlineacoupleofmuffintrayswithpapercases.

2.Sifttheflour,bakingpowder,cinnamonandsaltintoalargebowl,thenstirinthesugar.Whiskthemilk,eggsandbuttertogetherinalargejug,thenpourintothedryingredientsandmixwell.Stirinthepearsandhalfthegranola.

3.Dividethebatterbetweenthemuffincases,andsprinklethetopofeachonewiththeremaininggranola.

4.Bakefor25–30minutes,oruntilaskewerinsertedintothemiddleofthemuffinscomesoutclean.Leavetocoolfor5minutesbeforeservingwarmoratroomtemperature.

HOWTOMAKEPERFECTMUFFINSDon’tovermixyourwetanddryingredients.Acoupleofstirswithaspoonwillbeplenty–or,betterstill,useyourhands.Otherwisethemuffinswillcomeoutheavy.

PEANUTBUTTERANDJAMCOOKIESMAKES30

AnotherAmerican-inspiredcombo.IusedtolovepeanutbutterandjamsandwichesforteawhenIwasyoung–muchtomymum’shorror–andtheflavoursworkjustaswellinachewycookie.Thisisagreatoneforgettingthekidsinvolved.Theyloverollingouttheballsofdoughandthenmakingindentswiththeirtinyfingerssoyoucanaddadollopofjamandpeanutbutter.

185gplainflour,sifted

1tspbakingpowder

Pinchofseasalt

125gbutter,softened325gpeanutbutter(smoothorcrunchyisfine)185glightmuscovadosugar

3tbspmilk

1vanillapod,splitopenandseedsscrapedout

1largefree-rangeegg,beaten125graspberryjam

1.Preheattheovento180°C/Gas4andline2bakingsheetswithbakingpaper.

2.Sifttheflour,bakingpowderandsaltintoabowl.

3.Putthebutter,200gofthepeanutbutterandthesugarintoalargeseparatebowlandwhiskuntilpaleandfluffy.Addthemilk,vanillaseedsandeggandbeatuntilsmooth.Graduallysiftintheflourmixtureandbeatuntilcombined.

4.Usinglightlyflouredhands,rollthedoughinto30ballsslightlysmallerthanawalnut,gentlyflattenthemandplacethemonthepreparedbakingsheets.Using1or2fingers,pressdowninthemiddleofeachonetomakeashallowindent.Placea½teaspoonofjamanda½teaspoonofpeanutbutterineachindent.

5.Bakefor10–12minutes,untilpalegolden.Usingaspatula,transferthebiscuitstoawireracktocoolbeforeserving.

DULCEDELECHEBISCUITSMAKES8

Alsoknownas‘alfajores’,thesecrumblyshortbreadbiscuitsarepopularalloverSouthAmerica,fromArgentinatoPeru.TheywerebroughtoverbytheSpanish,whointurnwereintroducedtothembytheMoorsofNorthAfrica.Thesecretoftheirmore-ishness(sorry!)isthedulcedeleche(sweetcaramel)usedtosandwichthebiscuitstogether.Ifyouwanttotakethemtoanotherlevel,rollthemindesiccatedcoconutaroundtheedgesjustbeforeserving.

150ggranulatedsugar

250gsaltedbutter,softened

1largefree-rangeegg

1vanillapod,splitopenandseedsscrapedout

250gplainflour,plusextraforrolling90gcornflour½tspbakingpowder250gdulcedelecheorcondensedmilkcaramelIcingsugar,fordusting

1.Preheattheovento180°C/Gas4.Line2bakingsheetswithbakingpaper.

2.Putthesugarandbutterintoabowlandbeatwithanelectricwhiskuntillightandfluffy.Beatintheeggandvanillaseeds.

3.Sifttheflour,cornflourandbakingpowderoverthebuttermixtureandmixtogetheruntiladoughforms.

4.Usinglightlyflouredhands,dividethedoughinto16equalpiecesandrollintoballs.Placethemonthepreparedsheets,spacingthemwellapart,thenpressdownwiththepalmofyourhandtoflattenslightly.Chillfor10minutesoruntilfirmtotouch.

5.Bakefor10–12minutes,untilthebiscuitsarepalegolden.Usingaspatula,transferthemtoawireracktocool.

6.Whencold,sandwichtheflatsidesofthebiscuitstogetherwithatablespoonofdulcedeleche,anddustwithicingsugartoserve.

HOWTOMAKEDULCEDELECHEDulcedelecheisavailableinmostsupermarkets.Tomakeyourown,piercethetopofacanofcondensedmilkintwoplacesandthenplaceitinsimmeringwater,beingcarefulthewaterdoesn’tcometothetopofthecan,forthreetofourhours.Leavetocoolbeforeopening.

CRANBERRY,MARSHMALLOWANDPEANUTCHOCOLATEFRIDGECAKEMAKES14PIECES

Afridgecake,ortiffin,asitisalsoknown,isperfectformakingwithchildrenbecauseitdoesn’tneedbaking.Feelfreetoexperimentwithanycombinationofdriedfruitandnutsyoulike:raisins,cherries,blueberries,walnutsandhazelnutswouldallworkwell.Youcanalsostorethisinthefreezer,makingittheperfectcaketotakeonapicnic.Simplyputitinachillerbagwhereitwillactasanicepackuntilyouarereadytosliceit.

100gbutter,cubed

300gmilkordarkchocolate,asyouprefer

4tbspgoldensyrup

200gdigestivebiscuits

75gminimarshmallows75gdriedcranberries75gsaltedpeanuts,roughlychopped

1.Lightlygreaseandlinea16×26mmbakingtraywithgreaseprooforbakingpaper,leavingagenerousoverhangsothatthepaperwillcoverthetopofthefinishedcake.

2.Gentlymeltthebutter,chocolateandgoldensyrupinasaucepanoveralowheat.Removefromtheheatimmediatelyandallowtocoolslightly.

3.Meanwhile,placethedigestivesinamixingbowlandbreakintosmallchunks.

4.Stirthebiscuits,marshmallows,cranberriesandpeanutstogether.Pourinthechocolatemixtureandmixwell.Spoonintothepreparedbakingtrayandpressdownwithaspatula.Foldtheoverhangingpaperoverthetopofthecakeandusingyourhandspressdownhardtocompactthemixture,thenplaceinthefridgetoset.Alternatively,placeinthefreezerandstoreuntilwanted.

5.Toserve,removefromthebakingtrayandsliceintopieces.

CHOCOLATEANDMINTCARAMELCAKESERVES8–10

Everyfamilyneedsagoodchocolatecakerecipeforspecialoccasions,andthisismine,inspiredbytheIcebreakerchocolateandmintbarsIenjoyedasachild.Ithasnoflourinit,usingbeateneggwhitestogiveitaliftinstead,soitmaysinkalittleaftercomingoutoftheoven.Don’tworry,noonewillnoticeonceyou’veaddedthetopping.

275gcastersugar

Largehandfulofmintleaves,finelychopped250gdarkchocolate(70%cocoasolids),brokenintopieces

125gunsaltedbutter,plusextraforgreasing

6free-rangeeggs(4separatedand1yolksavedforuseinanotherrecipe)Flavourlessoile.g.groundnutFORTHETOPPING

400mldoublecream

4tbspicingsugar

6–8dropsofpeppermintextract

1.Preheattheovento180°C/Gas4.Lightlygreaseabakingtraywithalittlegroundnutoil.Lightlygreasea23cmspringformcaketinandlinethebasewithbakingpaper.

2.Pour100gofthecastersugarintoalargefryingpanandplaceitoveramediumheat,shakingthepanoccasionally,butnotstirring,toensureitmeltsevenly.Onceithasturnedadeepgoldencolour,scatteritwiththemintleavesandtipontothepreparedtray.Setasidetocool.Whencoldandfirm,breakhalfthecaramelintopiecesandplaceinabowl.Usingtheendofarollingpin,crushthemintoverysmallpiecesandsetaside.Breaktheremainingcaramelintosmallshardsandreservefordecoration.

3.Meltthechocolateinabowlthatfitssnuglyoverapanofgentlysimmeringwater.(Thebowlmustnotactuallytouchthewater.)Addthebutterandstiruntilmelted.Setasidetocoolslightly.

4.Beat2wholeeggsand3eggyolkswith75gofthecastersugaruntilthick,lightandfluffy.Foldinthechocolatemixture,thenfoldinthecrushedcaramel.

5.Inanotherbowl,whisktheeggwhitesintosoftpeaks,thenaddtheremaining100gcastersugaralittleatatimeuntilitisallincorporated.Themixtureshouldbeinstiff,glossypeaksthatholdtheirshape.

6.Foldaspoonfulofthewhitesintothechocolatemixture,thencarefullyfoldintherestofthem.Spoonintothepreparedtinandbakefor35–40minutes,untilthecakehasrisenandthecentreisnolongerwobbly.Setasidetocoolinthetin.Don’tworryifthemiddlesinksalittle–thisoftenhappenswithflourlesscakes.Whencold,transferthecaketoaservingplate.

7.Tomakethetopping,putthecreamintoabowl,sifttheicingsugaroveritandaddthepeppermintextract.Whisktogetheruntilthecreambeginstothickenandjustholdsitsshape–takecarenottooverwhip.

8.Spoonthetoppingoverthesurfaceofthecake,leavinganarrowborderaroundtheedgetomakeforneatercutting.

9.Scatterthereservedcaramelshardsontopandserve.

SALTEDCARAMELPOPCORNSERVES4

Thisshowsthatthere’snofoodthatcan’tbegivenabitofamakeover.Popcorn’sbecomeapartofourFridaymovienightroutineathomeandthechildrenhavegotolderthey’vedevelopedatastefortheslightlymoregrown-upflavourofsaltedcaramel.

100gdriedcornkernels

200ggoldencastersugar

1tspflakedseasalt

25gsaltedbutter

½tspbicarbonateofsodaFlavourlessoil,e.g.groundnut,forgreasing

1.Cookthecornaccordingtothepacketinstructions.Discardanykernelsthathavenotopenedandsettherestaside.

2.Placetheemptypopcornpanoveramediumheatandaddthesugarandsalt.Heatuntilthemixturecaramelises,swirlingthepanratherthanstirring,untilthecaramelisamid-goldencolour.Stirinthebutterandcookgentlyforafurther30seconds.

3.Lowertheheatandcarefullyaddthebicarbonateofsoda:themixturewillbubbleup.Stiruntilcombined,thenimmediatelyremovefromtheheat,addthecookedpopcornandstiruntilitiswellcoated.

4.Tipthepopcornontoagreasedbakingtrayandleaveatroomtemperaturetoharden.Donotputthemixtureinthefridgeoritwillbecomesticky.Oncecooledandcrisp,breakanylargechunksintosmallpiecesandstoreinanairtightcontainer.

MAKINGCARAMELIfyouarenotconfidentaboutmakingcaramel,youmayfinditeasiertoavoidusinganon-stickpanastheblackcoatingmakesithardertoseethecolourofthecaramelchanging(youarelookingforarichcoppercolour).Ifyoudoburncaramel,youhavetostartagain.Thereisnowayofdisguisingthebittertaste.

THISCHAPTERISPROBABLYTHEMOSTIMPORTANTONEINTHEBOOKBECAUSEITISAIMEDATTHEVASTMAJORITYOFTHECOOKINGWEDO.

Formostofusthat’sacasualsupperforthewholefamilythatcanbeputtogetherwiththeminimumoffussanynightoftheweek.I’vefilleditwithfamilyfavouriteslikefishandmushypeas,wholeroastchicken,shepherd’spie–thekindoffoodTanaandIsitdowntoasoftenaswecanwithMegan,Jack,HollyandTilly.Except,ofcourse,I’veaddedplentyoftwistsalongthewaybecausethesecrettogoodcookingistokeepitfreshandexciting.Itmakesitmoreinterestingforthecookanditmakesitmoreinterestingfortheirfamily.Everyoneisawinner.Sothebatteronthefishisperkedupwithgingerbeer,theroastchickenisstuffedwithgarlickychickpeas,theshepherd’spiehasgotacheesychamptopping.Therereallyis

chickpeas,theshepherd’spiehasgotacheesychamptopping.Therereallyisnodishthatcan’tbegivenanewspin.

Whatwereallywantfromday-to-daycookingiseaseandeconomy.Wewantsimpledishesthattastegoodanddon’tcosttheearth.ATuesdaynightwhenyou’relatebackfromworkandthechildrenstillhaven’tdonetheirhomeworkisnotimetobecomposingcomplicateddishesthatneedhoursofpreparation.Thatdoesn’tmeanyoushouldn’tmakethemthebestyoucan.Whatwereallywantfromday-to-daycookingiseaseandeconomy.Wewantsimpledishesthattastegoodanddon’tcosttheearth.ATuesdaynightwhenyou’relatebackfromworkandthechildrenstillhaven’tdonetheirhomeworkisnotimetobecomposingcomplicateddishesthatneedhoursofpreparation.Youwantsomethingquickandsimple.Butthatdoesn’tmeanyoushouldn’tmakeitthebestyoucan.

Togiveyourselfthebestheadstart,alwaysplanahead,soyouknowexactlywhatyouarecooking.Intherestaurantworld,wecallthis“menuplanning”(athomeyou’llsimplycallit“decidingwhattoeat”)anditisthesecretofeverywell-runkitchenasitallowsyoutoworktofullcapacity.Getthisrightandtheeaseandeconomybitwillautomaticallyfollow.I’lllookatmenusweekbyweek,butevenathome,it’susefultothinkofmealsinblocksoftwoorthreedays.It’snotjusttheobviousthingslikeensuringyouhavealltherightingredients,butmorefundamentallyit’saboutmakingsureyouchoosethekindofcookingyoucancopewith.Eveninaprofessionalkitchen,wherewehavetheluxuryoflargebrigadesofchefs,withdozensofstarters,mainsanddessertstogetout,themenuchoiceisdictatedbywhatwecanachieve.Wehavetomakesuretheworkloadisspreadoverthedifferentsections,coldstarters,meat,fishetc.Youhavetomakeasimilarcalculationathome,albeitonasmallerscale.Ifyouarecateringforlargenumbers,goforsomethingsimplelikeahotpot,whichdoesn’tneedanylast-minutefussingover.Ifyouhavetheluxuryofsomesparetimeduringtheday,goforsomethingthatcanbemadewellahead,likeslow-roastedbeefbrisket.Iftimeisshort,trysomethingquicklikearisotto.Theotheradvantageofforwardplanningisthatyoucanincorporateleftoversintosubsequentmeals.RoastlambonaSunday?Itmakessensetoplanashepherd’spieontheMonday.

Theotherthingthatstackstheoddsinyourfavouristostartwiththebest,seasonalingredients.Butremember,thatdoesn’tnecessarilymeanthemostexpensive–there’llbeplentyoftimeforthatinthenextchapteraboutmoreshow-stoppingsuppers.Thekeyhereistobuynon-premiumcutsof

meatorlesspopularfish,usevegetablesinseason(seechartoverleaf),whenthey’llbecheaperandtastier,andcookwithattitude,injectingasmuchflavouraspossible.Andtoensureyouhavethewherewithaltodothemjustice,makesureyouhaveawell-stockedstorecupboardandfreezer.

STORECUPBOARD

WhatI’mlookingforhereisarangeofingredientsthatwillallowmetotakemycookingindifferentdirections,soontopoftheabsolutebasicssuchasoliveoil,winevinegar,seasaltandblackpepper,I’dincludethingslikeEnglishandFrenchmustard,flour,cornflour,tinnedtomatoes,tinned

EnglishandFrenchmustard,flour,cornflour,tinnedtomatoes,tinnedanchovies,tinnedchickpeas,tinnedkidneybeans,soysauce,Worcestershiresauce,spices(cinnamon,cumin,coriander,curry,paprika,fivespice),casterandicingsugar,honey,oatmeal,mixednuts,pulsesandgrains.

Backintheolddays,almostallourcarbohydratescamefrompotatoesandbread.Nowwehavesomuchmoretochoosefrom,eachofwhichcanaddvarietytothesuppertable:polenta,whichisanItaliancornmealmadewithdriedmaize(Iusetheinstantvarietyathomeasitisreadyintenminutes);couscous(again,usetheinstantvariety);quinoa,barleyandPuylentils,whichareallprettymuchinterchangeablebutbringadifferentflavourandtexturetoadish;longgrainrice(Basmatioutofpreference),risottorice(IlikeCarnarolibest)and,ofcourse,pastasandnoodles,whicharenotonlyessentialtoItalianandChinesecooking,butcanalsobeusedtobulkoutsoupsandcasseroles.

FREEZERGreenvegetablessuchasbroadbeansandpeas(evenduringtheirseason,itisbettertobuyfrozenthanthosetired‘fresh’podsyouseeonsupermarketshelves);lotsofchickenandvegetablestock(seethechapteronsoupsfordetails),frozenintoconvenientsizes;breadcrumbs,notjusttocoatfishorchicken,buttoscatteroveramacaronicheesebeforebakingortomakepangrattato(friedinoilwithgarlic,anchovies,parsleyandchilliandtippedoverpasta).

SEASONALCHART

JANUARY.Brusselssprouts,cabbage,carrots,celeriac,celery,greens,Jerusalemartichokes,kale,leeks,onions,parsnips,potatoes,shallots,squash,swede,turnips.

FEBRUARY.Beetroot,broccoli,Brusselssprouts,cabbage,carrots,cauliflower,celeriac,chard,chicory,Jerusalemartichokes,kale,kohlrabi,leeks,onions,parsnips,potatoes,shallots,springgreens,swede.

MARCH.Beetroot,broccoli,carrots,cauliflower,celeriac,chicory,leeks,mint,radishes,sorrel,springonions.

APRIL.Carrots,kale,radishes,spinach,watercress,wildgarlic.

MAY.Asparagus,purple-sproutingbroccoli,broadbeans,cabbages,carrots,lettuce,newpotatoes,radishes,springonions.

JUNE.Artichokes,asparagus,aubergines,beetroot,broadbeans,broccoli,cabbages,carrots,cauliflower,courgettes,cucumber,garlic,lettuce,onions,peas,peppers,potatoes,radishes,spinach,turnips.

JULY.Artichokes,beans,beetroot,broccoli,cabbages,carrots,cauliflower,cucumber,fennel,garlic,lettuce,onions,peas,potatoes,radishes,rocket,shallots,spinach,springonions,turnips,watercress.

AUGUST.Artichokes,aubergines,beans(broad,Frenchandrunner),beetroot,broccoli,cabbages,carrots,cauliflower,courgettes,cucumber,fennel,garlic,leeks,lettuce,onions,peas,potatoes,pumpkins,radishes,rocket,shallots,spinach,squash,sweetcorn,tomatoes,turnips,watercress.

SEPTEMBER.Aubergines,beans(broad,Frenchandrunner),beetroot,broccoli,cabbages,carrots,cauliflower,courgettes,cucumber,fennel,garlic,kale,leeks,lettuce,onions,peas,potatoes,pumpkins,rocket,spinach,squash,swede,sweetcorn,tomatoes,turnips,watercress.

OCTOBER.Artichokes,aubergines,beans,beetroot,broccoli,Brusselssprouts,cabbage,carrots,cauliflower,celeriac,celery,courgettes,cucumber,fennel,garlic,kale,leeks,lettuce,onions,parsnips,potatoes,pumpkins,rocket,spinach,squash,swede,tomatoes,turnips.

NOVEMBER.Beetroot,purple-sproutingbroccoli,Brusselssprouts,cabbage,carrots,cauliflower,garlic,Jerusalemartichokes,kale,leeks,lettuce,onions,parsnips,potatoes,spinach,squash,swede,turnips.

DECEMBER.Beetroot,Brusselssprouts,cabbage,carrots,cauliflower,garlic,Jerusalemartichokes,kale,leeks,onions,parsnips,potatoes,pumpkins,spinach,squash,swede,turnips.

GRIDDLEDPOLENTAWITHROASTEDVINETOMATOESANDGOAT’SCURD

BLOODYMARYLINGUINE

LAMBKOFTASWITHMINTANDYOGHURTDRESSING

BEETROOTHOUMOUSWITHZA’ATARSPRINKLE

BUTTERMILK-FRIEDCHICKEN

QUICKSWEETPICKLEDCELERY

HOME-MADEFISHFINGERS

SAUSAGEANDCARAMELISEDREDONIONHOTPOT

POTATOANDBEETROOTGRATIN

SHEPHERD’SPIEWITHCHEESECHAMPTOPPING

BRAISEDPEASANDCARROTSWITHMINTBUTTER

CHILLI-MINTEDMUSHYPEAS

GINGERBEER-BATTEREDFISH

BEEFSTEWWITHMUSTARDSUETDUMPLINGS

TWICE-BAKEDBUBBLEANDSQUEAKJACKETPOTATOES

ROASTEDBEETROOTANDTHYMERISOTTO

ROASTCHICKENWITHCHICKPEASTUFFINGANDBIGGREENSALAD

CRISPYROASTDUCKWITHCHINESEPANCAKESANDDIPPINGSAUCE

HOISINANDCUCUMBERSALAD

BARBECUE-STYLESLOW-ROASTEDBEEFBRISKET

CRUNCHYLIGHTCOLESLAW

SPICEDSWEETPOTATOWEDGES

BLOODYMARYLINGUINESERVES4

Thismakesanunusualstarterormainandjustshowshoweventhemostfamiliardishes–inthiscasepastaandtomatosauce–canbeupdated.BloodyMaryisoneofmyfavouritedrinks,soIthought,whynotincorporatethesameflavoursontheplate?Thealcoholallevaporatesbutitaddsarichnesstothesauce.AsarealtreatIsometimesservethiswiththeGrilledLobsterwithChilli,GarlicandParsleyButter.

Oliveoil,forfrying1redonion,peeledandfinelydiced

1garlicclove,peeledandcrushed

1–2tbspWorcestershiresauce

1tspTabascosauce

½tspcelerysalt

1tspcastersugar

1×400gtinbest-qualitychoppedtomatoes50mlvodka400gdriedlinguine

FORTHETOPPINGOliveoil,forfryingLargehandfulofwhitebreadcrumbs

1tbspfinelychoppedparsley

Seasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper

1.Firstmakethetopping.Placeasmallfryingpanoveramediumheatandaddadashofoliveoil.Whenhot,frythebreadcrumbswithapinchofsaltandpepperuntilgolden.Stirthroughtheparsley,transfertoabowlandsetaside.

2.Placealargefryingpanoveramediumheatandaddadashofoil.Whenhot,sautétheonionwithapinchofsaltandpepperuntilsoftenedandturninglightgolden.Addthegarlicandcontinuetosautéfor2minutes.SeasontotastewiththeWorcestershireandTabascosauces,thecelerysaltandasprinklingofsugar.

3.Pourinthevodkatodeglazethepan,scrapingupthebitsfromthebottom.Addthetomatoes,bringtoasimmerandcookgentlyfor10–15minutes,untilreducedalittleandflavourful.Addalittlewaterifthesaucethickenstoomuch.

4.Meanwhile,cookthelinguineaccordingtothepacketinstructions.Whenaldente,drainandaddtothepanofsaucealongwithalittleofthepastawater.Mixwell,thendividebetweenwarmservingplatesandtopwiththeherbybreadcrumbs.Serveimmediately.

HOWTOMAKESILKYPASTASAUCESWheneveryoumakeapastadishwithasauce,alwaysreserveatablespoonortwoofthepastawaterandstiritintomakethesaucesilkysmooth.

LAMBKOFTASWITHMINTANDYOGHURTDRESSINGSERVES4

ThesespicyMiddleEasternmeatballsmakeagreatmidweeksuppereitherwithacrispgreensalad,orstuffedinsideawarmedpittabreadwithlettuce,cucumberandtomatoes.Eitherway,drizzleoverplentyofmintandyoghurtdressingtocounteractthespiceofthekoftas.MyBeetrootHoumouswithZa’atarSprinklealsoworkswellwiththisdish.

Oliveoil1onion,peeledandfinelydiced2garliccloves,peeledandcrushed2

tspcuminseeds,toastedandgroundChilliflakes,totaste500gmincedlamb

2tbspchoppedparsleyleaves

2tbspchoppedmintleaves

Seasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper

FORTHEDRESSINGSmallbunchofmint,leavesonly½tsptoastedcuminseeds2–3tbspnaturalyoghurtFreshlygroundblackpepper

1tbsplemonjuice

1.Placeasmallfryingpanoveramediumheatandaddadashofoil.Whenhot,sautétheonionandgarlicuntiltender.Addthecuminseedsandchilliflakesandcook,stirring,forabout2minutes.Setasidetocoolslightly.

2.Putthelambintoamixingbowl,addtheonionmixtureandchoppedherbsalongwithadrizzleofoliveoilandapinchofsaltandpepper.Mixwellwithyourhands.

3.Rollthelambmixtureintopiecesthesizeofgolfballsandflattenthemintopattiesabout1cmthick.Placeonaplatedrizzledwithalittleoil,anddrizzlethetopsofthepattieswithmoreoil,readyforcooking.Coverandchillforabout10minutestofirmup.

4.Meanwhile,makethedressing.Putthemintintoamortarandbashitwiththepestletobruiseit.Addtheremainingingredientsandmixwell.Tasteandadjusttheseasoningasnecessary,thentransfertoaservingbowl.

5.Placeagriddlepanoveramediumhighheat.Whenhot,griddlethekoftasfor5–6minutes,turninghalfwaythroughsothatbothsidesarewellbrowned.

6.Servethekoftaswarmwiththedressingontheside.

HOWTOMAKEYOUROWNLAMBMINCEYoucanmakeyourownminceinafoodprocessor,usingtrimmedshoulder,bellyorneckfillet.Ifyoudonothaveamincingattachment,usethesharpcuttingblade,addingcubedmeatinstagesandusingthepulsebutton.Ifyouaddtoomuchmeat,orsettheprocessoroncontinuousspeed,themeatwillbecomemushy.

BEETROOTHOUMOUSWITHZA’ATARSPRINKLESERVES4–6

Houmoushasbecomealmostcommonplacenow–thestapleofmanyapackedlunchorpicnicbasket–sohere’sanicetwist.Thebeetrootaddscolour,ofcourse,butalsoalovelysweetness.Serveitwithgrilledmeats,suchastheLambKoftaswithMintandYoghurtDressing,orasadipwithcruditésormaybeSaffronFlatBreads.Za’atarisatypicallyLebanesespicemixofdriedherbs,sumacandtoastedsesameseeds.Youcanbuyitinsupermarkets,butit’smuchnicerwhenyoumakeyourown,ashere.

1tbspcuminseeds,toasted250gcookedchickpeas

250gcookedbeetroot,chopped

1tbsptahinipaste

1garlicclove,peeledandcrushedJuiceof1lemon1–2tbspoliveoilSeasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepperToastedflatbreadsorpittabreads,toserve

FORTHEZA’ATARSPRINKLE1tspcuminseeds,toasted1tspsesameseeds

1tspgroundsumac

½tbspmarjoramleaves1.First,combinealltheingredientsfortheza’atarsprinkleandmixwell.Setaside.

2.Tomakethehoumous,grindthetablespoonofcuminseedstoapowderusingamortarandpestle.

3.Putthechickpeas,beetroot,tahiniandgarlicintoafoodprocessoralongwiththegroundcuminseedsandwhizuntilsmooth.Addatablespoonofoliveoil,halfthelemonjuiceandagoodpinchofsaltandpepperandwhizagain.Tasteandadjusttheseasoning(includingthelemonjuiceandoil)asnecessary.Ifthemixtureseemsabitthickandsticky,loosenitwithatablespoonorsoofwater.

4.Servethehoumousdustedwiththeza’atarsprinkle,andoffertoastedflatbreadsorpittabreadalongside.

USINGSPICESBuyyourspiceswholeandgrindthemasneededtoensuretheystayfresh.Storetheminairtighttinsorjarsinacool,darkplace.

BUTTERMILK-FRIEDCHICKENSERVES4

Traditionalsouthernfriedchickenissimplycoatedinseasonedflourandfried,butmarinatingthechickeninbuttermilkfirsttenderisesthemeatandgivesitalovelytangyflavour.Idon’tknowwhatthecolonelputsinhissecretblendofherbsandspices.Iusesmokedpaprika,garlicandcayennepepper,andI’lltellyou,itknocksthesocksoffhisversion.ThisislovelywithmyQuickSweetPickledCelery.

4free-rangechickenthighs

4free-rangechickendrumsticks

500mlbuttermilk

Flavourlessoil,e.g.sunflowerorgroundnut,fordeep-frying300gplainflour

1–2tspsmokedpaprika½tspgarlicpowder1–2tspcayennepepperSeasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper1.

Placethechickeninabowl,addthebuttermilkandagoodpinchofsaltandmixwell.Coverwithclingfilmandchillovernight,orforatleast30minutes.Bringbacktoroomtemperaturebeforecooking.

2.Oncereadytocook,poura1.5cmdepthofoilintoaheavy-basedsautépanorhob-proofcasseroledish.Placeoveramediumheatuntiltheoilreaches170°Coracubeofbreaddroppedintotheoilsizzlesandturnsbrownafter30seconds.

3.Puttheflouronaplateandmixwiththespicesandapinchofsaltandpepper.Removethechickenpiecesfromthebuttermilk,shakingoffanyexcess,thendipintheflour,makingsureallsidesarecoated.

4.Frythechickeninasinglelayer(youmightneedtodoitinbatches),turningconstantlyfor25–30minutes,untilevenlygolden.Drainonkitchenpaperandservewarm.

QUICKSWEETPICKLEDCELERYSERVES4–6ASASIDEDISH

ThisisaquickandeasypickletocutthroughtherichnessoftheButtermilk-friedChickenortogowithanycoldmeatsandcheeses.Youwantthecelerytokeepitscrunchsodon’tcookittoolong.Leavingitsittinginthesweetandsourpoachingliquormeansitwillstilltakeonplentyofflavour.Ifyouwanted,youcouldaddothervegetablessuchascarrotribbonsandslicedradishestomakeitmoresubstantial.

½headofcelery,trimmed100gcastersugar100mlwhitewinevinegar4–5cloves

1tbspmustardseeds

6blackpeppercorns

Seasalt

1.Separatetheceleryandcuteachstickdiagonallyintoslicesabout1cmthick.Setasideinalargebowl.

2.Placeasmallpanoveramediumheatandaddalltheremainingingredients,including50mlwaterandapinchofsalt.Bringtotheboil,thenreducetheheatandsimmerandstiruntilthesugarandsalthavedissolved.Tasteandadjusttheseasoningasnecessary.Youwantabalancebetweensourandsweet.Allowtocooluntilwarm.

3.Pourthepicklingliquidovertheceleryandleavetocoolcompletelybeforeeating.Ifplacedinasterilisedairtightjar(seetip)andstoredinthefridge,thepicklewillkeepforuptoamonth.

HOWTOSTERILISEGLASSJARSTosterilisejars,andtheirlids,washthemthoroughlyandallowtodryonacleanteatowel.Preheattheoventoitslowestsetting,thenplacethejarsandlidsonatrayandheatintheovenfor30minutes.

HOME-MADEFISHFINGERSSERVES4

Igrewuponwhitefishsuchascod,butpollackisanotherwonderfulfish,perfectinmyhome-madefishfingers.I’musingpankobreadcrumbshere,whichareflakierthanothercrumbsandgivefriedfoodalightercoatingthatstayscrispyforlonger.Runningthecrumbsthroughwithdillmakesthefishfingersmorearomaticandtheylookfantastic.GivemetheseandachipbuttyandI’mlikeanine-year-oldkidagain.

500gwhitefishfillet,e.g.pollack,skinned4dillsprigs,leavesonly

100gpankobreadcrumbs

4tbspplainflour

2free-rangeeggs,beatenSunfloweroil,forfryingKnobofbutterSeasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper

1.Slicethefishintochunkyfishfingershapes.Sprinklelightlywithsalt,thencoverandplaceinthefridgefor20–30minutestofirmup.

2.Finelychopthedillandmixwiththebreadcrumbsinashallowbowl.Puttheflourintoanothershallowbowlandseasonwithsaltandpepper.Putthebeateneggsintoathirdbowl.

3.Usingkitchenpaper,rubanyexcesssaltoffthefish.Dustthefishpiecesinflourandshakeoffanyexcess,thendipintheegg,makingsureallthesidesarecoated.Allowanyexcesstodripoff,thencoverinthedillbreadcrumbs.

4.Placealargeheavy-basedfryingpanoveramedium-highheatandaddenoughsunfloweroiltolightlycoatthebottom.Whenhot,shallow-frythefishfingersoneithersidefor3minutes.Addthebuttertowardstheendofthecookingtimetohelpthefishfingerscrispupandturnadeepgoldencolour.

5.Drainonkitchenpaperifnecessaryandseasonwithapinchofseasaltbeforeserving.

SAUSAGEANDCARAMELISEDREDONIONHOTPOTSERVES4

Richandsweetwithwineandcaramelisedonions,thistakesthehumblehotpottoanotherlevelandwouldbejustthethingtohavegentlywarmingintheovenafterafireworksdisplayoralongwinterwalk.ServewithbutteredcabbageandpotatoesormyPotatoandBeetrootGratin.

Oliveoil,forfrying

8best-qualityporksausages

2redonions,peeledandfinelysliced2knobsofbutter

1tbspsoftbrownsugar

3thymesprigs,leavesonly150gbuttonmushrooms,cleanedandquartered

2tbspagedbalsamicvinegar

200mlredwine

200mlbeefstockSmallhandfulofparsley,roughlychoppedSeasaltandfreshlyground

blackpepper1.Preheattheovento180°C/Gas4.Placealargehob-proofcasseroledishoveramediumheat.Addadashofoilandfrythesausagesuntilcolouredallover.Transfertoaplateandsetaside.

2.Addtheonionsandacoupleofknobsofbuttertotheemptycasseroledish.Stirinthesugarandthyme,thencookfor10–15minutesoveramediumheat,stirringnowandagainuntiltheonionsarecompletelycaramelised.Addthemushrooms,stir,andcontinuetocookfor5minutes.Pourinthevinegarandcookforafurther5minutes.

3.Addthecookedsausagesandredwinetothedish,bringtotheboilandbubblefor4–5minutestoburnoffthealcoholandreduceslightly.Addthestock,bringtotheboil,thentransfertotheovenfor18–20minutesuncovereduntilthesausagesarecookedthroughandthesauceisthick.Sprinklethefinisheddishwithparsleyandserve.

POTATOANDBEETROOTGRATINSERVES4

Thisisalovelytwistontheclassicgratindauphinois,inwhichlayeredpotatoandbeetrootisgentlycookedingarlickycream.Iprefertousewaxypotatoesastheykeeptheirshapebetterbutwhateveryouuse,cutthemasthinlyaspossible,ideallyinafoodprocessorormandoline.Thebeetrootshouldbecutthickerbecauseithasalreadybeencooked.

1garlicclove,peeledandhalved

Butter,forgreasing750gpotatoes,peeled500gcookedbeetroot,peeled

500mldoublecream

Seasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper1.Preheattheovento180°C/Gas4.Rubtheinsideofa26×18cmbakingdishwiththecutsidesofthegarlic,thengreaseitwithbutter.

2.Slicethepotatoesverythinly.Cutthebeetrootintoslicesabout5mmthick.Heatthecreamgentlyoveramediumheatuntilhot.

3.Layerone-thirdofthepotatoesintotheprepareddish(savethebest-lookingpiecesforthetop).Coverwithhalfthebeetrootslicesandseasonwithsaltandpepper.Repeatbeforefinishingwithalastlayerofneatlyarrangedpotatoesandseasonagain.

4.Pourthehotcreamoverthedishandbakefor1hour,oruntilthepotatoesarecompletelytender.Ifthetopseemstobebrowningtooquicklytowardstheendofthecookingtime,coveritwithfoil.Servewarm.

HOWTOCOOKBEETROOTWrapthebeetrootsandagoodsprinklingofsaltinfoilandcookthemat180°C/Gas4foraboutanhour,oruntiltheyfeelsoftwhenpiercedwithaskewer.Leavethemtocoolalittlebeforepeeling.

SHEPHERD’SPIEWITHCHEESECHAMPTOPPINGSERVES6

IfIhadtochooseanall-timefavouritefamilyrecipe,itwouldbethis.Mymummadethebestshepherd’spie;theonlycomplaintsheevergotwasthattherewasn’tenough.Thesecretisinbrowningtheminceproperly.Remember:nocolour,noflavour.AccompanywithBraisedPeasandCarrotswithMintButter.

Oliveoil,forfrying1kgmincedlamb2garliccloves,peeledandfinelychopped1onion,peeledanddiced

2leeks,trimmed,halvedlengthwaysandfinelysliced

1–2tbspWorcestershiresauce1tbsptomatopurée100mlredwine250mlchickenstock

2rosemarysprigs,leavesonly,chopped

SeasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepperFORTHETOPPING

750gpotatoes,e.g.MarisPiper,peeledandcutintochunks50gbutter3springonions,trimmedandfinelychopped

100gCheddarcheese,grated

50–100mlmilk(optional)1.Preheattheovento180°C/Gas4.Placealarge,widefryingpanorhob-proofcasseroledishoveramedium-highheat.Addadashofoilandfrytheminceinbatches,seasoningeachlot,untilwellbrowned.Addthegarlicforthelast2minutes.Transfertoaplate.

2.Putalittlemoreoilinthesamepanandcooktheonionandleeksoveramediumheatfor5–7minutes,untilcompletelysoftened.AddWorcestershire

saucetotaste,thenstirinthetomatopurée.

3.Returnthemincetothepanandstirwell.Pourinthewine,scrapingupanybitsfromthebottom.Bubbleforacoupleofminutestoburnoffthealcohol,thenaddthestockandbringtotheboil.Reducetoasimmer,thenaddtherosemaryandadjusttheseasoningasnecessary.Cookgentlyfor10–15minutes,untilthesaucehasreducedslightlyandtheflavoursarewellcombined.Setasidetocool.

4.Meanwhile,preparethetopping.Boilthepotatoesuntiltender,thendrainandmashuntilsmooth.Mixinthebutterandseasoning,thenaddthespringonionsandthree-quartersofthecheeseandmixagain.Tasteandadjusttheseasoningasnecessary.Ifthemashistoodryaddasplashofmilktoloosen.

5.Putthelambmixtureintoa28×22cmbakingdishandtopwiththemashedpotato.Sprinklewiththeremainingcheeseandalittlesaltandpepper.Bakefor15–20minutesoruntilthepotatoisgoldenbrownandthemeatisbubblingunderneath,andserve.

HOWTOCRISPUPMASHEDPOTATOWheneveryouneedtocrispupmashedpotato,runthetinesofaforkoverthepotatotoformlittleridgesthenputthepotatointheovenandbakeat180°C/Gas4untilgolden.Theridgeswillhelpthepotatotobrown.

BRAISEDPEASANDCARROTSWITHMINTBUTTERSERVES4

WhatelsedoyouservewithShepherd’sPiebutpeasandcarrots?Butnotjustanyoldpeasandcarrots.Iliketocooktheminbutterandstocktobringouttheirnaturalsweetness,andthentopthemoffwithmintedbutter.

Knobofbutter250gbabycarrots,cleanedandtrimmed300mlchickenorvegetable

stock

200gfrozenpeas

SeasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepperFORTHEMINTBUTTER

100gbutter,atroomtemperature

6mintsprigs,leavesonly,finelychopped

1.Firstmakethemintbutter.Puttheingredientsforitintoabowl,addafewtwistsofpepperandmixwell.Wrapinclingfilmandrollintoasausageshape.Chilluntilrequired.

2.Putalargeknobofbutterinaheavy-basedsautépanandplaceoveramediumheat.Whenmelted,addthecarrots,tosswellandaddsomesaltandpepper.Pourinthestock,coverthepanwithalidandcookgentlyfor6–7minutes.

3.Addthepeastothepan(plusalittleextrastockifneeded)andcontinuetocookfor3–4minutes,untilthepeasarecookedthroughandthecarrotsaretender.Tasteandadjusttheseasoningasnecessary.

4.Transferthepeasandcarrotstoaservingdish.Unwrapthemintbutter,sliceintodiscsandplaceafewontopoftheveg.(Anyleftoverbuttercanberewrappedandstoredinthefridgeforuptoaweek.)Serveimmediately.

CHILLI-MINTEDMUSHYPEASSERVES4

Traditionallymadewithmarrowfatpeas,hereIamusingthefreshergardenpeas,lightlycrushedwithapotatomasherorthebackofafork.Continuingthespicetheme,I’veaddedalittlechillitothese–plus,ofcourse,plentyofbutterandmint.PerfectwithGingerBeer-Batteredfish.

Oliveoil,forfryingButter1bananashallot,peeledandfinelydiced1redchilli,finelychopped1garlicclove,peeledandcrushed

400gfrozengardenpeas

4mintsprigs

Seasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper

1.Placeaheavy-basedfryingpanoveramediumheatandaddadashofoilandaknobofbutter.Whenhot,addtheshallotandchilliandsautéfor2–3minutesbeforeaddingthegarlicandapinchofsalt.Sautégentlyfor6–7minutes,untilcompletelysoft.

2.Meanwhile,bringalargepanofwatertotheboil.Addthepeas,apinchofsaltand2mintsprigsandcookuntiltender.Drain,discardingthemint.

3.Addthepeastothepanofshallotmixture.Mixwell,thenroughlymashwithapotatomasher.Tasteandadjusttheseasoningasnecessary.

4.Finelyshredtheremainingmintleaves,mixthroughthepeasandserve.

GINGERBEER-BATTEREDFISHSERVES4

Fishandchipswithpeashasgottobetheultimatecomfortfood,butIdon’tthinkyou’llfindmytwistdownatyourlocalchippie.Addingacarbonatedliquidsuchaslagerorsparklingwatertoflourisacommonwayofcreatingalighter,moreaeratedbatterandthespiceingingerbeergivesitanextraedge.Useanartisangingerbeerifyoucan,whichwillbelesssweetandhavemoreofakick.Alternativelyaddapinchofgroundgingeralongwiththecayennepepper.ServewithChilli-MintedMushyPeas.

4meatyfilletsofsustainablewhitefish,trimmed(cod,pollock,haddockorcoleywillallworkequallywell)Flavourlessoil,e.g.groundnut,forfryingSeasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepperFORTHEBATTER

225gplainflour,plusextrafordusting

2tspbakingpowder

Pinchofcayennepepper

1tbspflavourlessoil,e.g.groundnut300mlgingerbeer

1.Placethefishonaplateandseasonwithsaltandpepper.Coverwithclingfilmandchillfor10minuteswhileyoumakethebatter.

2.Sifttheflourintoabowlandaddthebakingpowder,cayennepepper,adecentpinchofsaltandalittleblackpepper.Addtheoilandgingerbeer,stirringasyoudoso,untilthemixturehastheconsistencyofthickdoublecream.Leavetostandfor30minutes.

3.Pouraone-thirddepthofoilinalarge,deepsaucepan.Placeoveramediumheatuntilthetemperaturereaches160°C,oradollopofbatterspoonedintotheoilrisesimmediatelytothesurfaceandbubblesformaroundtheoutside.

4.Placeahandfulofflouronaplate,seasonwithsaltandpepperandcoatthefishinit,shakingoffanyexcess.Givethebatterastir,dipthefishinit,allowinganyexcesstodripoff,thenfryfor3–5minutes(dependingonthethicknessofthefish),untilthebatterisdarkgoldenandcrisp.Liftoutwithaslottedspoon,drainonkitchenpaperandseasonwithapinchofsalt.Keepwarmwhileyoucooktheremainingfishinthesameway.

5.ServethefishwarmwiththeChilli-MintedMushyPeasontheside,ifusing.

HOWTOCHOOSEFISHWhicheverfishyouuse,makesureitiscertifiedbytheMarineStewardshipCouncil.It’sessentialthatwemanagemarineresourcescarefullyandthemostpowerfulwayofdoingthatisbymakingtherightbuyingchoices.

BEEFSTEWWITHMUSTARDSUETDUMPLINGSSERVES4

ThisrecipeshowcasesBritishcookingatitsbest:beautifulbeefslow-cookedinbeerandtoppedwithlight,fluffydumplings.It’squitebeautifulandjustthesortofrecipeeveryoneshouldhaveintheirrepertoire.Youcouldequallyuseredwineinsteadofbeerifyoulike,andthedumplingsaren’tessential,butIdourgeyoutogivethematry.ServewithbutterycarrotsandgreensorwithmyTwice-BakedBubbleandSqueakJacketPotatoes.

700gbraisingbeef,cutintochunks2tbspplainflour,fordustingOliveoil,forfrying

2carrots,peeledandcutintothickslices150gpearlonionsorbabyshallots,peeledandtrimmed4garliccloves,bashed

4thymesprigs

3bayleaves

500mlbeerorale

2–3tsptomatopurée300mlbeeforchickenstockSeasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper

FORTHEDUMPLINGS125gself-raisingflour,plusalittleextrafordusting75gsuet

1tbspwholegrainmustard

1.Preheattheovento150°C/Gas2.

2.Seasonthebeefwithsaltandpepper,anddustintheflour.Placealargehob-proofcasseroledishoveramediumheatandaddadashofoil.Whenhot,brownthebeef(inbatchesifnecessary)untilcolouredonallsides.

3.Addthecarrots,onions,garlicandherbs,stirringoveramediumheatfor2–3minutes.

4.Pourinthebeertodeglazethepan,scrapingupthebitsfromthebottom.Boilfor2–3minutes,thenstirinthetomatopurée.Addthestockandbringtoasimmer.Mixwell,thencoverwithalidplacingitveryslightlyaskewtoallowsomesteamtoescape.Placeintheovenfor2½hours,untilthebeefisreallytender.

5.Meanwhile,makethedumplings.Placetheflourandsuetinabowl,addapinchofsaltandpepper,thenthemustard.Mixtocombine,thenaddatouchofwarmwaterandbringitalltogethertoformathickdough.(Addalittleextraflourifthemixturebecomestoowet.)6.Withflouredhands,rollthedoughinto8–12balls(dependingonthesizeyouprefer).

7.Removethestewfromtheovenandincreasethetemperatureto180°C/Gas4.Placethedumplingsinthestew,replacethelidandcookforafurther20–25minutes,untilthedumplingshavegrowninsizeandaresoftandtender.(Ifyoupreferyourdumplingstohaveacrisptop,don’tcoverthedishwhenreturningittotheoven.)Coolslightlybeforeserving.

TWICE-BAKEDBUBBLEANDSQUEAKJACKETPOTATOESSERVES4

Thesedeliciouspotatoesmakeagreatveggiemaincourseintheirownright,perhapswithalittlecheesegratedover,butarealsoagreatsideaccompanimenttoacasserolesuchastheBeefStewwithMustardSuetDumplings.Ioftenmakemash,ashere,bybakingratherthanboilingpotatoesasitresultsinafluffier,morepotato-yflavour.Andthejoyofthisrecipeisthatyoudon’twastetheskins.

4bakingpotatoes

¾headofSavoycabbage,finelyshredded3–4knobsofbutterSeasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper1.Preheattheovento

180°C/Gas4.

2.Washanddrythepotatoesandbakeintheovenfor1hour,untilcookedthroughandcrispontheoutside.

3.Meanwhile,sautéthecabbageinalittlebutterandadashofwateruntiltender.Seasonwithsaltandpepperanddrainoffanyexcessmoisture.

4.Slicethebakedpotatoesinhalf.Scoopoutthefleshandtransferittoamixingbowl.Mashinacoupleofknobsofbutterwithafork.Addthecabbage,mixwell,thentasteandadjusttheseasoningasnecessary.Youmightalsoneedanotherknobofbutter,dependingonthekindofpotatoused.

5.Spoonthemashedpotatobackintotheemptyshells–itwillcomeabovetheedges,whichisgood–andplaceonabakingtray.Returntotheovenfor10–15minutes,untilthetopsaregoldenandcrisping.Servestraightaway.

ROASTEDBEETROOTANDTHYMERISOTTOSERVES4

Risottoshaveatrickyreputation,buttheyareactuallyverystraightforward.Youdoneedtoputinthearmwork,though,stirringcontinuouslyasthericecooks.Beetrootisawonderfulrootvegetablesopleasedon’tletchildhoodmemoriesoftheacidicpickledstuffputyouoff.Ithasalovelysweet,earthyflavourandwillstaintherisottoagloriouspurplecolour.Aperfectdishfornon-meateaters(don’tforget,vegetarianParmesanisreadilyavailable).

500gbeetroot,peeledandchoppedintochunks

Oliveoil,forroastingPinchofsugarDashofbalsamicvinegarSeasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepperFOR

THERISOTTOExtravirginoliveoil2bananashallots,peeled,halvedlengthwaysand

finelysliced2garliccloves,peeledandfinelysliced

4thymesprigs,leavesonly

250grisottoricee.gArborio150mlredwine800mlhotvegetablestock50gbutter

75gParmesancheese,grated

1.Preheattheovento180°C/Gas4.Placethebeetrootinaroastingtin,tosswithagoodglugofoliveoil,thesugar,saltandpepperandthebalsamicvinegar.Roastfor30minutes,thenaddadashofbalsamic,stirandcookforafurther10minutes,untiltender.

2.Meanwhilemaketherisotto.Placeawideheavy-basedsaucepanoveramediumheatandaddaglugofoliveoil.Whenhot,addtheshallotsandgarlic,seasonwithsaltandpepperandsautégentlyuntilsoftenedbutnotbrowning.Stirinthethyme,thenpourinthericeandstiruntilthegrainsbegintochange

colour.

3.Pourinthewinetodeglazethepan,scrapingupthebitsfromthebottom.Continuestirringfor2–3minutes,untilthericehasabsorbedthewine.Addaladlefulofhotstockandstiruntilabsorbed.Repeatthisprocessuntilyouthericeisjustcookedandhasarich,creamyconsistency.

4.Addtwo-thirdsofthetenderbeetrootchunkstotherisottoandstirthrough.

5.Turnofftheheatandstirinthebutterandthree-quartersoftheParmesan.Tasteandadjusttheseasoningasnecessary.Toserve,dotwiththeremainingbeetroot,sprinklewiththeremainingParmesananddrizzlewithalittleoliveoil.

HOWTOMAKETHEPERFECTRISOTTOThekeyisnottofloodthericewiththestock,addingitalittleatatimesothatyouareincontrol.Thefinaladditionofbutterandparmesan–themantecatoastheItalianscallit–isanotheressentialpartoftheprocess.Addthemboth,givetherisottoagentlestirandputthelidbackonforafewminutestoallowthericetoabsorbtherichflavours.

ROASTCHICKENWITHCHICKPEASTUFFINGANDBIGGREENSALADSERVES4–6

ThisisthewayIusedtoeatroastchickeninFrance.Byslippingabeautifultarragonbutterundertheskin,younotonlykeepthebreastmoist,butallthatflavourgetsabsorbedbythechickpeastuffingaswell.Takethestuffingoutaftercookingandmixinthecookedgarlicandsomeofthevinaigretteand–Iguaranteeit–thosewillbethetastiestchickpeasyou’veeverhad.

1largefree-rangecorn-fedchicken(about2kg),gibletsremovedSmallbunchoftarragon,leavesroughlychopped200gbutter,atroomtemperature3headsofgarlic,halvedhorizontallyOliveoil,fordrizzlingSeasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepperFORTHESTUFFING

1×400gtincookedchickpeas,drainedandrinsed2redchillies,sliced1lemon,zested

3thymesprigs,leavesonlyOliveoilFORTHESALAD1butterlettuce,washed1lollorossolettuce,washed100gbabyspinach1ripeavocado,peeled,stonedandchoppedFORTHEDRESSING

1tbspbalsamicvinegar

1tbspDijonmustard

1tbsprunnyhoney

4–6tbspextravirginoliveoil

1.Preheattheovento200°C/Gas6.Seasontheinsideofthechicken.Placethetarragonandbutterinabowlandbeatuntilcombined.Seasonwithsaltandpepper.Loosentheskinoverbothchickenbreastsbygentlypushingyourfingersunderneathit.Nowpushthetarragonbutterundertheloosenedskinsothatitcoversthewholecrown.

2.Tomakethestuffing,putthechickpeasintoabowl,seasonandaddthechillies,lemonzest,thymeleavesandadashofoliveoil.Mixwell.Spoonthechickpeamixtureinsidethechickencavityandplacethewholelemonattheentrance.

3.Placethegarlicheads,cutsidedown,inaroastingtin.Putthechickenontopanddrizzlewitholiveoil.Seasontheoutsideofthechickenwithsaltandpepperandroastfor10–15minutes,untilturninggoldenandbeginningtocrispup.Reducetheheatto180°C/Gas4andcontinueroastingfor1¼–1½hours,untilcookedthroughandgoldenallover.

4.Extractthelemonfromthecavityofthebirdandspoonthestuffingintoalargebowl.Placethechickenonawarmplatter,coverlooselywithfoilandsetasidetorestfor10–15minutes.

5.Meanwhile,separateallthelettuceleavesandtearanyreallylargeonesintopieces.Placeinasaladbowlalongwiththespinachandavocado.

6.Putallthedressingingredientsexcepttheoilintoabowlandwhiskwell.Addapinchofsaltandpepper,thenaddtheoilandmixuntilemulsified.Setaside.

7.Spoonthegarlicoutofthepanandsqueezethepulpintoasieveplacedoverthebowlofstuffing.Slicetheroastedlemoninhalfandsqueezethejuiceoverthegarlic.Pushthegarlicandjuicethroughthesievewiththebackofaspoon.Mashtheentirecontentsofthebowlwithapotatomasher,thenadd1tablespoonofthedressing.Mixwell,thentransfertoaservingbowlanddrizzlewithalittleextraoliveoil.

8.Add2tablespoonsofthedressingtothesalad,thentoss,tasteandadjustthe

seasoningasnecessary,addingalittlemoredressingifneeded.(Anyleftoverdressingcanbestoredinascrewtopjarinthefridge.)Serveimmediatelyalongsidetheroastchickenandstuffing.

CRISPYROASTDUCKWITHCHINESEPANCAKESANDDIPPINGSAUCESERVES4–6

Thisisabsolutelymyfavouritekindoffoodforasimple,help-yourselfsupper.Althoughtheduckneedsalongtimeintheoven,youreallycanputitinandforgetaboutit,anditwillhappilysitinthereabitlongerifyou’renotready.Thenyousimplypullitapartwithafork,heatthepancakesinthemicrowaveandleaveeveryonetotuckin.Addsomechilliflakestothedippingsauceifyoulikeithotor,ifyouarefeelinglazy,substituteitformoreoftheshop-boughthoisinsauceIuseintheaccompanyingHoisinandCucumberSalad.

1duck

4tbspChinesefive-spicepowder

4staranise

2garliccloves,bashed4cmpieceoffreshrootginger,peeledandroughlysliced4springonions,trimmedandcutinhalf

20Chinesepancakes

Seasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper

FORTHEDIPPINGSAUCEGroundnutoil,forfrying2garliccloves,peeledandchopped3–4tbspblackbeansauce

2tspricevinegar

1–2tbspsoysauce½–1tbsprunnyhoney

1.Preheattheovento160°C/Gas3.

2.Cutoffanddiscardtheflapoffatthathangsovertheentrancetotheduck’sbodycavity.Pattheinsideofthecavitywithkitchenpaper,thenseasonwithsaltandpepper.Rubtheentireoutsideoftheduckwiththefive-spicepowder,massagingitintotheskin.Putthestaranise,garlic,gingerandspringonionsintothecavity.

3.Placetheduckonaracksetoveraroastingtinandroastfor160°C/Gas3for1hourthenturntheovendownto140°C/Gas1andcookforafurther2½–3hours,untilthefleshisreallytenderandtheskincrisp.

4.Meanwhile,makethedippingsauce.Placeasmallsaucepanoveramediumheatandaddadashofoil.Whenhot,frythegarlicuntiltenderbutnotcolouring.Add3tablespoonsoftheblackbeansauce,thevinegar,1tablespoonsoysauceand½tablespoonhoney.Mixwellandcookoveralowheatfor3–4minutes,untilwarmedthrough.Tasteandadjusttheflavoursasnecessary–youmightneedalittlemoresoysauceorhoney,dependingonthesaltinessorsweetnessoftheblackbeansauceyouareusing.Transfertodippingbowls.

5.Oncetheduckiscooked,transfertoaplate,coverlooselywithfoilandsetasidetorestfor15minutes.

6.Whentheduckhasrested,heatthepancakesaccordingtothepacketinstructions.Meanwhile,flakethemeatofftheduckbypullingitapartwithtwoforks.Servewiththedippingsauceandthewarmpancakes.

HOWTOMINIMISEFATWHENCOOKINGDUCKDuckislessmeatythanchickenbutitsrichflavourmeansitgoesfurther.Setitonatrivetwhenroastingasalotofthefatwillrenderoffasitcooks.

HOISINANDCUCUMBERSALADSERVES4

Duckpancakesarealwaysservedwithcucumberandspringonioninrestaurants.Forsomereasontheyalwayscutthemintosmallmatchsticks,butIalwaysthinktheylookmuchmoreimpressivecutintoribbons,ashere.Ialsoliketoaddgemlettucetomakethesaladgofurther.

1largecucumber

4springonions,trimmed

2babygemlettuce

FORTHEDRESSING

2tbsphoisinsauce

2cmpieceoffreshrootginger,peeledandgrated½tbspsoysauce½–1tbspricevinegar,ortotasteDashofsesameoil1.Trimtheendsoff

thecucumberandcutinhalflengthways.Scoopouttheseedswithateaspoon.Usingavegetablepeeler,cutthecucumberintolong,thinribbons.Placeinasaladbowl.

2.Thinlyjuliennethespringonions(seetip)andaddtothecucumber.Shredthelettucelengthwaysintolongthinstripsandmixwiththecucumberandonions.

3.Tomakethedressing,putalltheingredientsintoabowlwith2tablespoonscoldwater.Mixwell,tasteandadjusttheseasoningasnecessary.Pouroverthesalad,tosswellandserveimmediately.

HOWTOCUTJULIENNESTRIPSJuliennearefinestripsaboutthesizeofmatchsticks.Tomakethem,peelandcoreyouringredient,asnecessary,thencutinhalforintoquarters.Placeflatsidedownonaworksurfaceandcutintoslicesabout5mmthick.Cuttheseslicesintomatchstick-sizedpieces.

BARBECUE-STYLESLOW-ROASTEDBEEFBRISKETSERVES

Liketheroastduck,thisisanotherslowandeasydishwhichamplyrewardsalittleforwardplanning.Yousimplyrubthebeefinspicesandsealitoverahighheat,caramelisesomeonionsandthenleaveittotakecareofitselfintheovenforthreeorfourhours.It’samazinghowmuchofabarbecueflavourittakesonwithoutyouhavingtogoanywherenearthecharcoal.ServewithCrunchyLightColeslawandSpicedSweetPotatoWedgesforatasteoftheDeepSouth.

1kgbeefbrisket,excessfattrimmedofftoleavejust1cm

2onions,peeledandsliced

6bayleaves

2tbsplightbrownormuscovadosugar1tbsptomatopurée1×300mlbottlelager350mlbeefstock1tbspcidervinegar(optional)

FORTHERUB2tspcayennepepper2tspmustardpowder2tspfreshlygroundcuminseeds

2tspceleryseeds

Seasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper

1.Preheattheovento140°C/Gas1.

2.Firstmaketherub.Combinealltheingredientsforitinabowlandmixwell.Rubthemixturealloverthebrisket.

3.Placearoastingtinonthehobandaddaglugofoil.Whenhot,sealthebeefonallsidesuntilcoloured.Transfertoaplateandsetaside.

4.Addtheonions,bayleavesandsugartotheroastingtinalongwithapinchofsaltandpepper,andcookoveramediumheatuntiltheonionsaresoftandcaramelised.Addthetomatopuréeandstirfor1minute.Pourinthebeertodeglazethepan,scrapingupthebitsstucktothebottom.

5.Putthebrisketbackintothepanontopoftheonionsandpouroverthebeefstock.Bringtotheboil,thencovertightlywithfoilandtransfertotheovenfor3–3½hours,untiltender.Bastethebrisketeverynowandagainsothatthemeatisnicelyglazedinthepanjuices.

6.Transferthejointtoaservingdish,coverlooselywithfoilandsetasidetorestfor15–20minutes.

7.Meanwhile,placetheroastingtinoveramedium-highheattoreducethesauceaddingthecidervinegarifusing.Pouranyoftherestingmeatjuicesintothetinasyoudoso.

8.Toserve,slicethebrisketandspoonthesauceoverit.

CRUNCHYLIGHTCOLESLAWSERVES6–8

Sometimescoleslawmadewithmayonnaisecanbetooheavy,especiallyif,ashere,we’reteamingitwithrichbrisket.Keepitniceandlightwithamustardyyoghurtdressing.Theaimhereistoprovidesomecrunchtogowiththesucculentbrisket,sodressthevegetablesatthelastminutesotheyarestillcrisp.

¼headofredcabbage,coreandouterleavesremoved¼headofwhitecabbage,coreandouterleavesleavesremovedBunchofchives,finelychoppedFORTHEDRESSING

200gnaturalyoghurt

1tbspwholegrainmustard

1–2tspcidervinegarSeasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper1.Finelyshredtheredandwhitecabbage.Placeinamixingbowl.Addthechivesandmixwell.

2.Combineallthedressingingredientsinabowl,mixwellandseasontotaste.Pouritoverthevegetables,tosswellandserve.

SPICEDSWEETPOTATOWEDGESSERVES4

Withtheircreamy,fluffyorangeflesh,sweetpotatoesmakeagreatalternativetotheregularpotato.I’venevergottheAmericanthingoftoppingthemwithmarshmallows,astheytypicallydoatThanksgiving,butcuttingthemintowedgesandrubbingtheminagroundspicemixworksreallywell.

1tspcorianderseeds

1tspsmokedpaprika

½tspcayennepepper½tspdriedoregano1kgsweetpotatoesOliveoil,fordrizzlingSeasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper1.Preheatandovento200°C/Gas6.

2.Toastthecorianderseedsinadrypanoveramediumheatuntilaromatic.Transfertoamortarandpoundwithapestleuntilbrokenup.Addadecentpinchofsalt,acoupleoftwistsofpepper,theremainingspicesandoregano.Mixwell.

3.Cutthesweetpotatoeslengthwaysintowedgesabout2.5cmthick.Placetheminaroastingtin,drizzlewithoilandtossuntilcoated.Sprinkleevenlywiththespicemixandtossagain.

4.Roastthewedgesintheovenfor15minutes,thenturnwithafishsliceandcookforafurther10–15minutes,untiltender.

HOWTOTOASTSPICESToastingspicesinadrypanforevenjustafewsecondsenhancesanddrawsouttheirfragrance.Becarefulnottoburnthemortheywillturnbitterandyou’lltasteitinthefinaldish.

THISISWHERETHEFUNHAPPENS,BECAUSEULTIMATELY,IFYOULOVECOOKING,WHATYOUREALLYWANTISANAPPRECIATIVEAUDIENCESATAROUNDTHEDININGROOMTABLE.

EvenafteralltheseyearsworkinginMichelin-starredkitchens,Istillgetahugebuzzfromthat,knowingthatallmyhardworkisbeingenjoyedbymyfriends.It’simportanttorealisethatI’mnottryingtoreplicatethethree-startreatmentathome,though.I’mnotheretopreparedifferenthorsd’oeuvres,tosendoutornatelyplatedupdishescookedtoorder,differentfishandmeatcourses,pre-dessertpalatecleansers...You’vegotrestaurantsforallthat.No,whatIliketoofferismoreaspiritofhospitality,wheremyguests

that.No,whatIliketoofferismoreaspiritofhospitality,wheremyguestscanseethatI’vegonetoaneffort,thatIwanttofeedthemwell,butnotsomuchthatI’mstuckinthekitchenallevening.

Ithinkhomecookssometimesgetintimidatedbythethoughtofcookingforabigcrowdofpeoplesotheygiveupandserveshop-boughtfoodinstead.But,trustme,withabitofplanningandgreatrecipesit’seasy.Menuplanningiscrucialhere.Youhavetoberealisticabouthowmuchyoucanachieveandmakethingsaseasyaspossibleforyourself.Ifyouaredoingthewholethree-courseaffair(whichpersonallyIdon’tthinkisalwaysnecessaryinthesemorerelaxedtimes)thenmakesureonecoursecanbedonewellinadvance–asouporsalad,forexample.Maybeservecheeseinsteadofpudding(Ialwaysthinkalargeblockofonecheeselooksmoregenerousthansmallportionsofseveralcheeses)orputsomebarsofgoodchocolateonthetableandletguestshelpthemselvesovercoffee.Thesearen’tfailuresofhospitality,theyarethesignsofaconfidenthostwhoknowsthatiftheyarerelaxed,alltheirguestswillberelaxedtoo.

Sowhatarethebestdishesformakingagoodimpression?Ithinkyoucangothreeways.First,andmostobvious,istothrowsomeluxuryatit.Itgetsexpensiveifyouarecookingforacrowd,obviously,butabeautifullobstertailorribofbeefwillalwaysturnamealintoaspecialoccasion.Alittletrufflegratedoveraplateofbutterytagliatelleissoeasy,butwillmakeyourguestsfeelspecial,especiallyifitisawhiteAlbatrufflefromItaly.IfusingablackPerigordtrufflefromFranceI’dbemorelikelytouseitasastuffing,alongwithsomebutter,betweentheskinandbreastmeatofachickenorguineafowl.

Alternatively,goforsomethingthatmightnotbethatluxuriousbutmakesanimpactwhenyoubringittothetable.I’dincludelargejointsofmeatsuchasalegoflamborarolledbellyofporkinthiscategory,ormaybemywholeSalt-crustSeaBream,whichhasarealsenseoftheatreaboutitasyoucrackopenthesaltcrustandallthosewonderfulsmellswaftout.Disheslikethisareidealforservinglargenumbersastheyareaseasytomakeforfourastheyarefor12–youjusthavetoadjustthecookingtime.It’snicetocarvemeatorfilletfishatthetable,butifthatmakesyounervousbyallmeanstakeitbacktothekitchentocarve.Bringitbackoutonalargeservingplatter,though,sotheeffectisn’tlost.

Thethirdrouteistoofferanembarrassmentofriches,almostaminibanquet,tounderscoreyourgenerosity.Iwasreallystruckbyhowseriously

theytakefamilyeatinginAsia,wheretheyallsitdowntogetherandputlotsofdishesinthemiddleofthetableforpeopletohelpthemselves.Ilovethatkindofentertaining.It’sverysocialandrelaxedandit’sanapproachwehaveadoptedinourhousetoo.Therewillbeabitmoreworktodobeforehand,preppingseveraldishes,buttherewardisahappybuzzaseveryonetucksin.TheStickySpicedChickenWingsareagoodexampleofthiskindofeating.Ontheirown,theymayseemabitasimplistic,butaddadishofstir-friedgreenbeanswithsoyandpeanutdressingandabowlofThairiceandyou’vegotanabsolutefeast.

SLOW-BRAISEDBEEFCHEEKSWITHPAPPARDELLE

CHICKENFRICASSÉE

SAUTÉEDPOTATOES

HERBYBUTTERBEANSALADWITHCRISPYPITTABREAD

POMEGRANATEMOLASSES-MARINATEDSPATCHCOCKQUAIL

SALT-CRUSTSEABREAM

BRAISEDLEEKSWITHHAZELNUTS

CHINESEBRAISEDOXTAIL

RADISHSALAD

GRILLEDLOBSTERWITHCHILLI,GARLICANDPARSLEYBUTTER

BEEFFILLETWITHSALSAVERDE

BAKEDNEWPOTATOESWITHTRUFFLEANDPARMESAN

STICKYSPICEDCHICKENWINGS

STIR–FRIEDGREENBEANSWITHSOYANDPEANUTDRESSING

THAIRICEWITHCURRYPASTEANDGREENHERBS

SLOW-COOKEDSMOKYPULLEDPORKBUTTWITHCHIPOTLEMAYO

CRUSHEDPOTATOESWITHSPRINGONIONSANDCHEESE

BROCCOLISLAW

STUFFEDRIBOFBEEF

HORSERADISHYORKSHIREPUDDINGS

AROMATICLAMBCHOPSWITHMINTYYOGHURT

CHARGRILLEDBROCCOLIANDBULGURSALAD

SLOW-BRAISEDBEEFCHEEKSWITHPAPPARDELLESERVES4–6

EveryItalianfamilyhastheirownversionofthefamoustomatoandmeatragú,typicallymadewithrabbitorwildboar.I’musingoxcheeksinstead,whicharecheapbutflavoursomeandwellworthyofanydinnertable.Don’tskimponthatcookingtime–it’sthesecretoftherichlycomplexsaucewhichelevatesthisdishfromitshumblebolognaisecousin.

Oliveoil,forfrying1kgbeefcheeksorstewingbeef1onion,peeledandroughlydiced

2garliccloves,peeledandroughlycrushed

1bayleaf

400mlredwine

1×400gtinchoppedtomatoes500mlbeefstock500gdriedpappardelleHandfulofparsley,finelychoppedSeasaltandfreshlygroundblack

pepper1.Preheattheovento150°C/Gas2.2.Placeaheavy-basedhob-proofcasseroledishoverahighheatandaddadashofoil.Seasonthebeefonbothsidesandbrownalloverinthehotpan.Transfertoaplateandsetaside.

3.Addtheonion,garlicandbayleaftotheemptypanandcookforacoupleofminutes,untilsoftenedandcolouringaroundtheedges.

4.Returnthemeattothepan.Addthewinetodeglazethepan,scrapingupthebitsfromthebottom.Stirinthetomatoesandthebeefstock,seasonwithalittlesaltandpepperandbringtoasimmer.

5.Coverthepanwithalidslightlyaskewtoallowsomesteamtoescape,andplaceintheovenfor3½–4hours,untilthemeatiscompletelytenderandthesaucerichandthick.Checktheliquidlevelafter2hours,toppingitupwithsomewaterifnecessary.

6.Cookthepappardelleinboilingsaltedwateraccordingtothepacketinstructions,untilaldente.Drainanddrizzlewitholiveoilandseasonwithsaltandpepper.

7.Placealadelfulofsauceinthebottomofaservingdishandtopwiththepasta.Finishwiththebeef,shreddedifyoulike,inthesauce,andasprinklingofparsley.

HOWTOCOOKPASTAAlwaysusewell-saltedwatertocookpastabecauseitisimpossibletoseasonlater.TheItaliansalwaysuse10g(2teaspoons)saltforeverylitreofwater.Addingoliveoiltothecookingwaterishelpful,butifyoureallywanttoensurethatyourpastadoesn’tstickasitcooks,useplentyofwater

wanttoensurethatyourpastadoesn’tstickasitcooks,useplentyofwaterandtwistthepanfromsidetosideafewtimestogetthepastaswirlingaroundjustafteryou’veputitin.

CHICKENFRICASSÉESERVES4

‘Fricassée’isoneofthoseold-fashionedtermswhichbasicallyjustmeansbraised.HereI’mcookingajointedchickenwithsmokedbacon,garlicandmushroomsbeforeflambéingitinbrandyandpoachingitinarichchickenstock.Youcouldaddsomedoublecreamtowardstheendifyouwantedtoenrichthesaucebut,tobehonest,madewithaqualitychicken,itisalreadymyultimatehome-cookedFrenchdinner,especiallyifwhenitispairedwiththeSautéedPotatoes.

2tablespoonsoliveoil

1largefree-rangechicken,jointedinto8pieces(2drumsticks,2thighs,2breastscutinhalf)150gsmokedbaconlardons

4garliccloves,peeledandbashed150gchestnutmushrooms,halved1bayleaf

2rosemarysprigs

2thymesprigs,leavesonly75mlbrandy450mlchickenstockSmallhandfulofparsley,choppedSeasaltandfreshlygroundblack

pepper1.Placealargeheavy-basedsautépanoveramediumheatandaddtheoliveoil.Seasonthechicken,addtothehotpanandsautéfor3–4minutesononeside,untilgolden.Turnthechicken,thenaddthelardons,garlicandmushroomsandmixwell.Stirinthebay,rosemaryandthyme.

2.Addthebrandyand,verycarefully,tiltthehotpantowardsthelitgastoignitethealcoholandflambéthechicken.Thismustbedonecautiouslybecauseitwillcreateahugeflame.Allowittodiedown,thenlowertheheatslightlyandsimmergentlyfor2–3minutes.

3.Pourinthechickenstockandbringtoagentlesimmer.Cookuncoveredfor10minutes,thencoverandcookforafurther15–20minutes,untilallthechickenpiecesaredone.Transferthemtoaplate,thenincreasetheheatunderthepanforafewminutestoreduceandslightlythickenthesauce.Returnthechickentothepanandspoonthesauceoverit.

4.Beforeserving,discardthegarlic,rosemaryandbayleaf,andsprinklewiththechoppedparsley.

HOWTOMAKETHEMOSTOFHERBSFreshherbsareagreatwaytoaddmaximumflavouronalowbudget.Makethemlastlongerbystandingthestemsinaglassofwater.They’llkeepthiswayforupto2weeksinthefridge.

SAUTÉEDPOTATOESSERVES4

TheFrenchdidn’tinventthefriedpotato,buttheycertainlyknowhowtotakeittoanotherlevel.Theshallots,garlicandherbsalladdextrainterest,butit’sthegoosefatthatistherealstar,producingburnishedgoldenspuds.Ifyouaren’talreadyaconvert,dousegoosefatforthebestroastpotatoestoo.

5waxypotatoes,e.g.Desirée,unpeeledandsliced½cmthick

1tbspgoosefat

2bananashallots,peeledandfinelysliced3garliccloves,peeledandfinelysliced2rosemarysprigs

2thymesprigs

Seasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper

1.Parboilthepotatoslicesinapanofsaltedboilingwaterfor5–6minutes.Drainandseasonwithsaltandpepper.

2.Placealargeheavy-basedfryingpanoveramediumheatandaddthegoosefat.Whenmeltedandhot,addthepotatoesandfryfor1–2minutesoneitherside,untilbeginningtobrown.Addtheshallotsandgarlic,seasonwithsaltandpepper,thenaddtheherbs(youmayneedtodothisinbatches).Continuecookinguntileverythingisniceandgolden.Servestraightaway.

HERBYBUTTERBEANSALADWITHCRISPYPITTABREADSERVES4

Ifyoudon’twantteenagers,especiallyhungryboys,toturnuptheirnosesatasalad,besuretopackitfullofcarbohydratestofillthemup.ThisLebanese-inspiredsaladincludesbothpittabreadandbutterbeans,whichmakeamellowcounterpointtothesharpnessofthelemonjuice,sumac(acitrus-flavouredcrushedberry)andpomegranateseeds.GreatforasummerpicnicwithgrilledmeatsorwithPomegranateMolasses-MarinatedSpatchcockQuail.

2largepittabreads

Oliveoil

1×400gtincookedbutterbeans,drained200gradishes,trimmedandhalved2–4springonions,trimmedandfinelychopped1cucumber,deseededandsliced4ripetomatoes,chopped

4celerysticks,finelyslicedSmallbunchofmint,leavesfinelychoppedBunchofparsley,roughlychoppedSeedsfrom1pomegranate

1tbspgroundsumac

Juiceof1lemonandzestof½Seasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper1.Slicethepittabreadsinto

stripsandcutacrossthemtomakesquaresabout2×2cm.Heatalargeheavy-basedfryingpanoveramediumheat.Addaglugofoilandfrythecubesinasinglelayer(youmightneedtodothisinbatches)untildarkgoldenandcrisp.Drainonkitchenpaperandseasonwithsalt.

2.Mixalltheremainingingredientstogetherinalargeservingbowl.Drizzlewitholiveoilandseasontotaste.Tossinthepittacubes,mixthroughandserveimmediately.

HOWTOMAXIMISELEMONJUICETogetthemaximumamountofjuicefromalemonorlime,rollithardunderyourpalmforaminutebeforejuicing.

POMEGRANATEMOLASSES-MARINATEDSPATCHCOCKQUAILSERVES4

ThisrecipeisfullofMiddleEasternflavours.Ilovethecombinationofspicesandsweetnessfromthepomegranatemolasses.Thelongeryoucanleavethequailtomarinatethebetter.Spatchcockingisagreatwayofpreparingquail,poussinorchicken.Byremovingthebackboneandflatteningthebirdsalongthebreastboneyoushortenthecookingtime,makingitidealforgrillingorbarbecuing.PairwithHerbyButterBeanSaladwithCrispyPittaBread.

1tbspcuminseeds

1tspcorianderseeds

2garliccloves,crushedOliveoil6tbsppomegranatemolasses

4spatchcockedquail

SeasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepperZestof1lemon,toserve1.Placeasmallpanoveramediumheat,addthecuminandcorianderseedswithapinchofsaltanddry-fryforabout2minutes,oruntilaromatic.Transfertoamortarandpoundwithapestle.

2.Addthegarlic,2tablespoonsoliveoilandthepomegranatemolassestothemortar.Mixwell,thentasteandadjusttheseasoningasnecessary.

3.Seasonthequailandplaceinasinglelayerinabakingdish.Pourthemarinadeoverthem,ensuringthatallpartsarecovered.Coverwithclingfilmandmarinateinthefridgeforatleast30minutes,andupto24hours.

4.Preheattheovento180°C/Gas4.

5.Placealargeovenprooffryingpanoveramediumheatandaddadashofoil.Whenhot,putthequailintothepan,skinsidedown,andfryfor2–3minutes,untilsealedandlightlycoloured.Turnandcooktheothersidefor2–3minutes.Add100mlwater,thentransferthepantotheovenandcookfor12–15minutes,untilthequailarecookedthrough,darkgoldenandsticky.

6.Servesprinkledwithlemonzest.

HOWTOMAKEPOMEGRANATEMOLASSESYoucanbuypomegranatemolassesfromdelis,MiddleEasternshopsandsomesupermarkets,butitiseasytomakeyourown.Simplyboilupalitreofpomegranatejuicewith100gsugarandthejuiceofonelemon.Simmerforaboutanhouruntilsyrupy.Oncecooled,youcanstoreitforuptoamonthinthefridgeandaddtomarinades,dressingsandtagines.

SALT-CRUSTSEABREAMSERVES4

Cookingfishinsideasaltcrustisverytraditional.Thesaltinsulatesthefishfromtheextremesofheat,ensuringitcooksevenlyandsealsinalltheflavoursandjuices.Italsomakesforadramaticcentrepieceifyoucrackitopenatthetable.Andno,thefishwon’ttastesalty–thescalesprotectthefleshsoitremainssweetandsucculent.Youcanusethistypeofcookingformosttypesoffish,thoughit’snotidealforoilyvarietiessuchassalmonandmackerel.

2seabream(trygilthead,ifpossible),eachabout400–500g,guttedandcleaned,scaleson½tspfennelseeds

1lemon,sliced

1.5–2kgfineseasaltSeasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper1.Preheattheovento

180°C/Gas4.

2.Seasonthestomachcavityofeachfish,thensprinkleinthefennelseedsandarrangethelemonslicesinside.

3.Mixthesaltwithabout100mlwateruntilitstartstoresemblewetsnow.Placea2cmlayerofthesaltmixtureinaroastingtinandsitthefishonittoptotail.Coverthemwiththeremainingsalt,pattingitdowntomakesuretherearenogaps.

4.Placeintheovenfor25minutes,oruntilthefisharejustcookedthroughandsmellaromatic,andthesalthasformedahardcrust.

5.Crackopenthesaltcrustbyhittingitwiththebackofaspoon,thencarefullyliftitoff.Peeloffanyskinremainingonthefish.Usingtheedgeofaspoon,runitdownthemiddleofthefleshandgentlypusheachfilletawayfromthebones:theyshouldcomeawayeasily.

BRAISEDLEEKSWITHHAZELNUTSSERVES4

Thissidedishisallabouttexture,withthesweet,softleeksenhancedbythecrunchofthetoastedhazelnuts.Thesecretistogetgoodcolourontheleeksbeforeaddingtheliquidasitaddsextraflavour.Itwouldgoreallynicelywithanyfishdish,suchasSalt-CrustSeaBream.

Oliveoil,forfrying4leeks,whitepartsonly,cutintopieces4–5cmlong2–3garliccloves,bashed

3thymesprigs

Knobofbutter

150mlwhitewine50gblanchedhazelnuts,toastedandroughlycrushedorchopped

2tbspchoppedparsley

Seasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper

1.Placeaheavy-basedsautépanoveramediumheatandaddadashofoil.Whenhot,addtheleeksandsomeseasoning,thencookfor3–4minutes,turningfrequently,untiltheyarearichgoldencolouronatleasttwosides.

2.Addthegarlic,thymeandbutter.Oncethebutterhasmelted,addthewineandbringtotheboil.Partiallycoverthepan,lowertheheatandsimmergentlyfor12–15minutes,untiltheleeksaretenderbutstillholdingtheirshape.Ifthereisalotofliquid,removethelidforthelast5minutesofcookingtimeinordertoreduceit.

3.Transferthebraisedleekstoaservingdish,sprinklewiththehazelnutsandparsley,andpouranycookingjuicesoverthetop.

HOWTOCOOKLEEKSDon’tcompletelycoverleekswhenyoucookthemorthecondensationwillmakethemwaterloggedandmushy.Forbestresults,youwantthesteamtobeabletoescape.

CHINESEBRAISEDOXTAILSERVES4–6

AlotofChinesecookinginvolvesquickstir-fryingoverhighheat,buttheyalsohavealongtraditionofslowbraises.Thecombinationofmeltingoxtailandwarmingspiceiswonderfulonawinter’snight.IliketoservethiswithbutterednoodlesandtheRadishSalad.

2kgoxtailpieces,anylumpsoffattrimmedoffPlainflourOil,forfrying4garliccloves,peeledandcrushed1onion,peeledand

diced1redchilli,sliced1fennelbulb,diced4cmpieceoffreshrootginger,peeledandsliced4tbspsoysauce

1tspcorianderseeds

4wholestaranise

4tbspChinesericewineordrysherry850mlchickenstockSeasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper1.Preheattheovento

160°C/Gas3.Dusttheoxtailinflour,shakingoffanyexcess,seasonwithsaltandpepper.Placeaheavy-basedhob-proofcasseroledishonamediumheatandaddadashofoil.Whenhot,addtheoxtailandcrushedgarlic,andfryonallsidesuntilbrowned.It’sbesttodothisinbatches.Transferthemeattoaplateandsetaside.

2.Addalittlemoreoiltothepan.Whenhot,addtheonion,chilli,fennel,ginger,soysauce,corianderseedsandstaranise.Sautéforaminutethenaddthericewinevinegarandcookforafurther2minutesbeforeaddingthemeatbackintothepan.

3.Addthestockandbringtoasimmer.Coverwithalidandplaceintheovenfor2½–3hours,turningtheoxtailpiecesoccasionally,untilthemeatisreallytender.Servewiththesaucespoonedoverit.

RADISHSALADSERVES4

Simplicityitself.Fouringredients–radishes,shallots,lemonandoliveoil–whichcombinetoproducefarmorethanthesumoftheirparts.Thefreshnessoftheradishesiseverythinghereasthisdishisallaboutthecrunch.

2bunchesofradishes,leaveson(about400gintotal)

1bananashallot,peeledandveryfinelysliced

1lemon

Oliveoil,fordrizzlingSeasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper1.Separatetheleavesfromtheradishes.Washbothreallywellandpatdry.

2.Slicehalftheradishesandplaceinaservingbowl.Trimthewholeradishesandaddtothebowlalongwiththeleaves.Mixintheshallot,thendressthesaladwithlemonjuice,adrizzleofoliveoilandsomeseasoning.

HOWTOPREPARERADISHESWashtheradishleavescarefullyastheycanbeverygritty.Iftheradishrootsneedperkingupalittle,placetheslicedhalvesinicedwaterfortenminutes.Thiswillmakethemslightlycrisper.

GRILLEDLOBSTERWITHCHILLI,GARLICANDPARSLEYBUTTERSERVES4

Lobsterissuchaluxury,youreallydon’twanttoovercomplicateit.Asimpledressingofchilli-spikedgarlicbutterisallyouneedtobringoutitsnaturalsweetness.Youcan,ofcourse,buyreadypreparedlobsters,butbuyingthemliveisthebestwaytoguaranteefreshness.MyBloodyMaryLinguinemakesagreataccompaniment.

4×600–700globsters,boiledfor6–7minutesFORTHEPARSLEYBUTTER

1redchilli,deseededifdesired

1garlicclove,peeledandfinelychopped

3tbspfinelychoppedparsley

150gbutter,softenedSeasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper

1.Putthechilli,apinchofsalt,thegarlicandtheparsleyintoamortarandbashwithapestleuntilblendedtoaroughpaste.Addthebutterandmixthoroughly.Setaside.

2.Placealobsteronachoppingboard,insertthetipofaheavyknifeintothecrossonthebackofitsheadandcutdowntowardsthetailtohalveitlengthways,thencutthroughtheheadtocreatetwoequalhalves.Discardthestomachsacandblackintestinaltractalongwithanyothergunkpresent.Snapoffthebigclawsandusethebackofyourknifetocracktheshellinplaces.Repeatthisprocesswiththeotherlobsters.

3.Spreadtheflavouredbutteroverthelobsterflesh.Breakoffpiecesoftheshellontheclawsandinsertalittlebutterhereaswell.Thencoverandchillfor10–20minutes.

4.Placeagriddlepanoveramediumheat.Whenhot,placethelobstersonit,fleshsidedown,andcookfor3–4minutes,tolightlychar.Turnoverandcookforafurther2minuteswiththeclaws,thenserve.

HOWTOBOILALOBSTEREverycookseemstohavedifferentopinionsonthecorrectwaytokilllobstersandothercrustaceansandforthemosthumanewayIrecommendconsultingtheRSPCAwebsite,whichwillshowyouwhichpartofthelobstertocutbeforeplacingitinalargepanofsalted,coldwaterandthenbringingittotheboil.

BEEFFILLETWITHSALSAVERDESERVES6–8

TheRolls-RoycecutfromtheRolls-Royceofmeats:itwouldbesacrilegetomessaroundwiththismuch.Iliketoservefilletrare,soyoucanappreciateitsalmostbutterysweetness,butfeelfreetocookitabitlongerifyoulike.Butplease,notwelldone.Thatwouldbeatravesty.Salsaverdeisasharp,punchycondimentfromItalythatworksparticularlywellwiththiscut.TeamupwithBakedNewPotatoeswithTruffleandParmesanforarealtreat.

Oliveoil,forfrying1kgpieceofbeeffilletcutfromthethickend2headsofgarlic,halvedhorizontally

4thymesprigs

2rosemarysprigs

Butter,forbastingSeasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepperFORTHESALSAVERDE

5anchovyfillets,reservesomeoftheiroil1½tbspcapers2garliccloves,peeledandcrushed1½tbspDijonmustard1½tbsp

sherryorredwinevinegarExtravirginoliveoilBunchofparsley,leavesonlySmallbunchofmint,leavesonlyFreshlygroundblackpepper1.Preheattheovento200°C/Gas6.

2.Placeaheavy-basedovenprooffryingpanoveramediumheatandaddadashofoliveoil.Seasonthebeefallover,thenbrowninthepanonallsidesforaminuteortwo.Addthegarlic,thymeandrosemaryandrollthebeefaroundwiththeherbs.Addacoupleofknobsofbutterand,whenmelted,bastethebeefinit.Transferthepantotheovenandroastfor10–12minutes(rare)or15–17(mediumrare).

3.Meanwhile,makethesalsaverde.Puttheanchovieswithateaspoonoftheiroil,capers,garlic,apinchofsaltandthehalftheherbs,inamortarandpoundwithapestleuntilapastehasformed.Stirinthemustardandvinegar.Loosenwithalittleoil,thenstirintherestoftheherbs.Mixwelltoyourpreferredconsistency.Tasteandadjusttheseasoningasnecessary.

4.Oncethebeefiscookedtoyourliking,basteitinthepanjuicesandtransfertoawarmplate.Spoonoveracoupleofspoonfulsofsalsaverde,coverlooselywithfoilandleavetorestfor10minutes.

5.Toserve,slicethicklyandspoonthesalsaverdealongside.

HOWTOCOOKBEEFFILLETBecausebeeffilletissolean,itcaneasilydryout.It’simportanttokeepbastingit,notjustbeforeitgoesintheoven,butalsoonceitcomesoutandisresting.

BAKEDNEWPOTATOESWITHTRUFFLEANDPARMESANSERVES4

Ifyou’vealreadyblownthebudgetontheBeefFillet,whynotgothewholehogandsplashoutonatruffle?Assoonasithitstheheatofthepotato,itwillfilltheroomwithitsirresistible,pungentaroma.BlackPerigordtrufflesfromFrancearedelicious,butbestofall(andtwiceasexpensive)arethewhiteAlbavarietyfromItaly.

1kgbabynewpotatoes

Oliveoil,forroasting

30gParmesancheese,grated

10gblacktruffleshavings(orwhiteifyou’refeelingextravagant)Seasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper1.Preheattheovento180°C/Gas4.

2.Placethepotatoesinaroastingtin,tossinalittleoliveoilandseasonwithsaltandpepper.Roastfor30–35minutes,untilcrispontheoutsideandsoftallthewaythrough.

3.PlacethepotatoesinaservingbowlandtosswiththeParmesan.Topwiththetruffleshavingsandserve.

USINGTRUFFLESTrufflesareequallygoodwithscrambledeggsorsilkypastatossedinbutter.Althoughpartofthesamefungusfamilyasthemushroom,youshouldnevercookthemortheywilllosetheirflavour.Simplygrateorsliceverythinlyoveryourplateatthelastminute.

STICKYSPICEDCHICKENWINGSSERVES4

Chickenisn’tallaboutthebreasts–thewingscanbejustasdelicious,especiallywhencoatedinaspicyAsianmarinadeandroastedtostickyperfection.CombinethemwithStir-FriedGreenBeansandThaiRicewithCurryPasteandyouhaveaperfectinformalsupperforfriends.

5tbsptamarindpaste

2tbspflavourlessoil,e.g.groundnut2tbsppalmorbrownsugar

1tbspfishsauce

2garliccloves,peeledandfinelychopped

1tspchillipowderorflakes

16–20free-rangechickenwings,dependingonsize,wingtipsremoved4springonions,trimmedandsliceddiagonally,togarnish

1.Ifusingablockoftamarind,placeitinabowlwith2tablespoonshotwatertodissolveit.Removeanyseeds,ifnecessary.

2.Putthetamarindpasteinalargebowlwiththeoil,sugar,fishsauce,garlicandchilliandmixwell.Addthewingsanduseyourhandstotossthemthoroughlyinthemixture.Coverwithclingfilmandmarinateinthefridgeovernight,orforatleast1hour.

3.Preheattheovento180°C/Gas4.

4.Linearoastingtinwithfoil(tomakeiteasiertocleanaftercooking)andplacethemarinatedwingsinit.Roastfor25–35minutes,untilcookedthroughandsticky.

5.Servethewingswarm,garnishedwiththespringonions.

STIR–FRIEDGREENBEANSWITHSOYANDPEANUTDRESSINGSERVES4

Althoughthisrequiressomelastminutestir-frying,youcanpart-cookthebeansinboilingwaterwellinadvance,sotheytakeliterallyfourminutestofinishoff.It’simportanttogetthepanhotenoughtoblisterthebeansandgivethemsomecolour–ifyouhaveonenow’sthetimetobringoutyourwokasitwillhelpyoutocontrolthetemperaturemoreeasilythanaheavypan.

300ggreenbeans,trimmed

2tbspcrunchypeanutbutter,or3tbsppeanutsblitzedinafoodprocessor

1tbspsoysauce

½tbspricevinegar½tbspbrownsugarFlavourlessoil,e.g.groundnut,forfrying2garliccloves,peeledandfinely

chopped2tbspsesameseeds,toasted,toserve1.Blanchthebeansinsaltedboilingwaterfor2minutes.Drainandrefreshincoldicedwater.

2.Putthepeanutbutter,soysauce,vinegarandsugarinabowlandmixtogether.Add1–2tablespoonshotwaterifthemixtureisverythick.Stiruntilthesugarhasdissolved.

3.Placeaheavy-basedfryingpanorwokoveramediumheatandaddadashofoil.Addthegarlicandcookfor1minute,untilgolden.Tossinthebeansandcookfor2–3minutes,untilbeginningtoblisterslightlyontheoutside.

4.Lowertheheat,addthepeanutdressingandstirwell.

5.Transferthebeanstoaservingbowlandsprinklewiththetoastedsesameseeds.

THAIRICEWITHCURRYPASTEANDGREENHERBSSERVES4

ThisisastapledishthroughoutThailand.Iftimeisshort,youcanusebest-qualityshop-boughtredorgreencurrypaste,butit’ssoeasytomakeyourownandtheresultwillbefarmorevibrant.

300gcookedjasmineorlong-grainrice,preferably1dayoldorchilledforatleast4hoursFlavourlessoil,e.g.groundnutSeasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepperLimewedges,toserve

FORTHECURRYPASTE

2largegreenchillies

1garlicclove,peeledandroughlychopped1lemongrassstalk,roughlychopped

2limeleaves

3cmpieceoffreshrootginger,peeledandchoppedSmallbunchofcoriander

1shallot,peeledandchoppedJuiceof1lime1.Firstmakethecurrypaste.Putalltheingredientsforitintoafoodprocessorwith1–2tablespoonsoilplusapinchofsaltandpepperandblitzuntilsmooth.

2.Placealargefryingpanorwokoveramedium-highheatandaddatablespoonofoil.Whenhot,addthecurrypasteandstirovertheheatuntilaromatic(about2minutes).

3.Addthericetothepan,stirwellandcookfor4–5minutes,untilthericeisheatedthrough.Ifnecessary,addanotherdashofoiltopreventthericefromstickingtothepan.Tasteandadjusttheseasoningasyouwish.

4.Transfertoaservingbowlandserveimmediatelywithlimewedges.

HOWTOSTIR-FRYTossingthecontentsofapanwithasmoothflickofthewristdoesn’tjustlookgood–itmeansyoucanstayincontrolandkeepthingscookingevenly.Thesecretistopushthepanawayfromyouandsharplypullitback.Pushaway,pullback,pushaway,pullback.Itwilltakealittlepractice,butit’saskillthat’sdefinitelyworthperfecting.

SLOW-COOKEDSMOKYPULLEDPORKBUTTWITHCHIPOTLEMAYOSERVES8–10

Thenamemightraiseasnigger,butboy,waituntilyoutastethisdish.The‘butt’isacutfromthemiddleofthepig’sshoulderwhich,withlongslowcooking,meltsdowntothesweetest,tenderestporkyou’llevertaste.Servedwithasmokymustardmayo,it’stheultimateAmericanpartyfood.AllitneedsaresomeCrushedPotatoeswithSpringOnionsandCheeseandBroccoliSlaw.

3tbsphotsmokedpaprika

2tbspdemerarasugar

4garliccloves,peeledandcrushed4thymesprigs,leavesfinelychopped,stemsreservedOliveoil

1×2–3kgporkbutt(frontmiddleshoulder),bonein,rindremoved4onions,peeledandquarteredSeasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepperWhitebaps,toserveFORTHECHIPOTLEMAYO

300gbest-qualitymayonnaise1–2tbspchipotlepaste(ifunavailable,use2tspsmokedpaprika)1tsprunnyhoney

1tbspwholegrainmustard

1.Preheattheovento140°C/Gas1.

2.Mixthepaprika,sugar,garlicandthymeleavesinabowl.Seasonwithsaltandpepper,thenaddalittleoliveoiltocreateapaste.Rubthemixturealloverthepork,massagingitintothemeat.Whileit’sabsolutelyfinetocooktheporkatthispoint,youcanalsocoverandchillitforupto24hourstoabsorbthespicerub.

3.Puttheonionsintoaroastingtin,sprinklewiththethymestalksandplacethepork,fattiestsideup,ontop.Roastfor1hour,thencoverwithfoilandcookforafurther4–5hours,untilthemeatisreallytenderandfallingoffthebone.

4.Meanwhile,makethechipotlemayo.Combinealltheingredientsinabowl,seasonwithsaltandpepperandmixwell.

5.Oncetheporkiscooked,coveritlooselywithfoilandsetasidetorestforupto1hourbeforepullingthemeatawayfromtheboneinchunks.Servewiththesmokymayoandbapsalongside.

CRUSHEDPOTATOESWITHSPRINGONIONSANDCHEESESERVES6–8

Ifyoucan’tchoosebetweenbakedandmashedpotatoes,theseofferthebestofbothworlds.Roughlycrushedandtoppedwithcornichons,springonionsandcheese,theymakeano-nonsenseaccompanimenttomySlow-CookedSmokyPulledPorkButt,oranyotherroast.

1.25kgred-skinnedpotatoes,unpeeled(cutanylargeonestothesamesizeasthesmallerones)30gofbutter,optional

4springonions

100gcornichonsorsweetpickledgherkins175gGruyèrecheese,gratedSeasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper1.Boilthepotatoesinsalted

boilingwateruntiltender.

2.Meanwhile,finelychopthespringonionsonthediagonalanddicethecornichons.

3.Drainthepotatoesandroughlycrushthem(stillintheirskins)withapotatomasher.Addthebutterifusing.Stirinthespringonionsandcornichons,thenfoldinthecheese.Tasteandseasonasnecessary,thenserve.

HOWTOBOILPOTATOESWITHPERFECTRESULTSAlwayscutpotatoesintoevensizessothattheycookevenly,andkeepthewateratagentlesimmer.Ifitboilsfuriously,theoutsidesofthepotatoeswillcooktooquicklyandbecomewaterlogged.

BROCCOLISLAWSERVES6

Thisisalovelyhealthysidesaladthatprovidesjustthecrunchyouneedwiththesoftporkbutt.Usingyoghurtinsteadofoilinthedressinggivesahintofcreaminesswithoutthecloyingrichnessyousometimesgetwithmayonnaise.

1headofbroccoli

1bananashallot(ifunavailable,use3smallordinaryshallots),peeledandfinelydiced100gcurrants100gwholeblanchedalmonds,toastedandroughlychoppedFORTHEDRESSING

200mlnaturalyoghurt1–1½tbspcidervinegarPinchofsugarSeasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper1.Cutoffanddiscardthebroccolistalks,thenchoptheheadsintosmallpieces.Placeinasaladbowlandaddtheshallot,almondsandcurrants.Setaside.

2.Puttheyoghurtforthedressingintoabowlandstirinthevinegar,startingwith1tablespoon,andaddingmorelaterifneeded.Addthesugar,mixwellandseason.Tasteandaddtheremainingvinegaroralittleextrasugarifnecessary.

3.Pourthedressingoverthebroccoli,tosswellandserve.

STUFFEDRIBOFBEEFSERVES6–8

TheSundayRoastisthecornerstoneofhomecookingandaribofbeefistheultimate.Cookingbeefonthebonenotonlylooksimpressive,butitgivesthemeatmoreflavourandensuresthatitcooksevenlytoo.I’dbeproudtoservethisverysimply,withjuicesfromthepan,butasatwist,I’mstuffingitwithmushrooms,spinachandtarragonandaddingamustardglaze.Delicious,especiallywhenpairedwithHorseradishYorkshirePuddings.

3-boneribofbeefonthebone,about3.5–4.5kg,chinebone(spine)removed

2heapedtspEnglishmustardpowder

6carrots,peeledandhalvedlengthways6parsnips,peeledandhalvedlengthwaysFORTHESTUFFING

1onion,peeledandfinelydiced200gPortobelloorchestnutmushrooms,wipedcleanandfinelychopped3garliccloves,peeledandchopped300gbabyspinach

75gbreadcrumbsmadefromstalebread(1or2daysold)2tarragonsprigs,leavesonly,roughlychopped1lemonthymesprig,leavesonly

1free-rangeeggyolk

Oliveoil

Seasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper

1.Takethebeefoutofthefridgeandallowittocomeuptoroomtemperature(about1hour).Atthatpoint,preheattheovento230°C/Gas8.

2.Meanwhile,makethestuffing.Placeaheavy-basedsautépanoveramediumheatandaddadashofoil.Whenhot,addtheonionwithapinchofsaltandpepperandsautéuntilsoftened.Addthemushroomsandcookuntiltender.Addthegarlicandsautéfor2minutes,thenaddthespinach,inbatchesifnecessary.Oncetheleaveshavecompletelywilted,removethepanfromtheheatandfinelychop.Transfertoabowlandallowtocoolslightly.

3.Addthebreadcrumbsandherbstothestuffing,andstirwell.Tasteandadjusttheseasoningasnecessary.Stirintheeggyolktobindthemixture.

4.Placethebeefonachoppingboardwiththeribsontheright-handside.Insertthetipofasharpknifeontheleft-handsideofthemeatabout3cminfromtheedgeandmakealongincisionjustabovetheribs,goingtwo-thirdsofthewayintothejoint.Theideaistoseparatethemeatfromthebones,butleaveitattachedalongthebottom.

5.Gentlypullthemeatapartandpushthestuffingintothegap.Itmightnottakeallthestuffing,inwhichcase,puttheexcessinasmallovenproofdish,coverwithalidorfoil,andbakeitforthelast10–15minutesofthemeatcookingtime.

6.Tieacoupleofpiecesofstringhorizontallyaroundthemeatandverticallybetweentheribbonestosecurethestuffinginplace.Putthemustardpowderinabowlwithapinchofsaltandpepperandenougholiveoiltoformathinpaste.Rubthemixtureintothemeat.

7.Placethecarrotsandparsnipsintotheroastingtin.Drizzlewitholiveoil.Putthemeatontopofthevegetablesandroastfor15minutestobrowntheoutsideofthemeat.Lowerthetemperatureto180°C/Gas4andcontinueroastingfor15minutesper450gofmeat,plus15extraminutesattheendifyoulikerarebeef

(theinternaltemperatureshouldregister50–53°Conameatthermometer)orforafurther20–30minutesifyoupreferbeefmediumrare(internaltemperature54–57°C).

8.Removethevegetablesafter35minutesandsetasidereadytoreheatbeforeserving.

9.Oncecooked,removethebeeffromtheoven,coverlooselywithfoilandleavetorestforatleast20minutes,andanythingupto45minutes.

10.Toserve,placethevegetablesbackintheovenat180°Cfor15minutestofinishcookingandreheat.Removethestringfromthebeefandsliceawaytheribbones,thencarvethemeatandspoonthestuffingandvegetablesontoaservingplatter.

HOWTOSTORERIBOFBEEFRibofbeefshouldbekeptunwrappedinthefridgesothatitalmostairdries.Thiswillintensifytheflavourandmakeitroastmorequickly.

HORSERADISHYORKSHIREPUDDINGSMAKES12

Howcanyouimproveonthetraditionalaccompanimenttoroastbeef?youmightask.Byaddingtheotherroastbeefessential–horseradish–ofcourse.Peopleoftencomplainthattheirpuddingsdon’triseproperly.Therearetwosecrets:gettheoilorfatreallyhotbeforeaddingthebatter,andoncetheyareintheoven,noopeningtheovendooruntiltheyareallpuffedupandmajestic.

150gplainflour

½tspsalt4free-rangeeggs,beaten

200mlwholemilk

6tbspfreshlygratedhorseradishor3tbspcreamedhorseradish

4tbspvegetableoil,duckfatordripping

1.Preheattheovento230°C/Gas8.Ifyouarecookingthesepuddingstogowithroastbeef,increasetheoventemperatureonceyouremovethebeeftorest.

2.Sifttheflourandsaltintoalargebowl.Addtheeggsandhalfthemilkandbeatuntilsmooth.Mixintheremainingmilkandthegratedhorseradishandleavethebattertorestforatleast30minutes,orevenwhilethebeefcooks.

3.Putateaspoonofoilor,betterstill,hotfatfromthebeefroastingtinintoeachcompartmentofa12-holemuffintinor2×4holeYorkshirepuddingtinsandplaceonthetopshelfoftheovenuntilveryhot(almostsmoking).

4.Whenready,whiskthebatteragain,pouritintoajugandfillthetinattheovenuntileachholeisthree-quartersfull.(Thisissaferthancarryingapanofboilingfatacrossthekitchen.)Watchoutastheoilwillsizzleabit.Putthetinstraightbackintotheovenandbakefor10–12minutesforthe2×4holetinsor

12–14minutesforthemuffintin,untiltheYorkshiresarewellrisen,goldenbrownandcrispontheoutsidebutsoftandspringyinthemiddle.

AROMATICLAMBCHOPSWITHMINTYYOGHURTSERVES4

Springlambisoneoftheseason’sgreatestgiftstoachefandshouldalwaysbeservedverysimply.Butasthelambmaturesthroughtheyearandthemeatdevelopsmoreflavour,youcanaffordtogetmoreadventurous.Thissimplespicemixofcumin,coriander,turmericandgingerisn’ttoooverpoweringbutreallyenhanceslamb’snaturalsweetness.Acoolingspoonfulofmintedyoghurtandasimplesalad,likemyChargrilledBroccoliandBulgurSaladareallthesidesitneeds.

2tspcuminseeds

2tspcorianderseeds

1tspgroundturmeric

4cmpieceoffreshrootginger,peeledandfinelygrated2garliccloves,peeledandfinelygratedOliveoil,formarinade

8–12lambcutlets,Frenchtrimmed250mlnaturalyoghurt4mintsprigs,leavesonly,roughlychoppedSeasaltandfreshlyground

blackpepper1.Puttheseedsandturmericintoamortar,addapinchofsaltandpoundasfinelyaspossible.Mixinthegingerandgarlic,thenaddalittleoliveoiltoformapaste.

2.Rubthepasteintothelambandleavetomarinateforawhile(anywherefrom10minutestoovernight).

3.Placeagriddlepanoveramediumheatanddrizzlewithoil.Whenhot,addthelambandgriddleitfor3–4minutesoneithersideifyoulikeitpink,or4–6minutesifyoupreferitwelldone.Whencookedtoyourliking,turnthelambonedgeandcookthefatuntildarkgoldenandcrisp.

4.Puttheyoghurtandmintintoabowl,seasonwithsaltandpepperandmixwell.

5.Servethecutletswiththeyoghurtontheside.

CHARGRILLEDBROCCOLIANDBULGURSALADSERVES4

ThisNorthAfricansaladisgreatwarmorcold.ServeitwiththeAromaticLambCutletswithMintyYoghurt–theflavoursreallycomplementoneanother.

150gbulgur

300gbroccoli,separatedintomediumflorets

SeasaltandfreshlygroundblackpepperFORTHEDRESSING

Bunchofmint,leavesonly1–2tspharissapaste,ortotaste

150mlbuttermilk

1.Cookthebulguraccordingtothepacketinstructions.Transfertoaservingbowl.

2.Placealargeheavy-basedfryingpanoveramediumheat.Addthebroccolitothedrypan,seasonwithapinchofsaltandcookfor6–10minutes,untilthebroccoliischarredinplacesandtender.Addtothebulgur.

3.Tomakethedressing,finelychophalfthemintleaves.Placetheminabowlwith1teaspoonoftheharissa,thebuttermilkandapinchofsaltandpepperandmixwell.Tasteandadjusttheseasoning,addingmoreharissaifyouwantaspicierflavour.

4.Pourthedressingoverthebulgurandbroccoli,addthewholemintleavesandtosswellbeforeserving.

USINGBUTTERMILKButtermilkisthethin,slightlysourliquidleftafterchurningbutter.Itisoftenusedindressings,bakingandtotenderisemeat.Itiswidelyavailablebutifyoucan’tfindany,substituteitwithtwopartsplainyoghurtandonepartmilk.

milk.

ALOTOFPEOPLEWHENCOOKINGFORFRIENDSWILLMANAGEASTARTERANDMAINCOURSE,BUTRUNOUTOFSTEAMWHENITGETSTOPUDDING.

There’snogreatshameinthat–afterall,inFrancetheyinvariablybuyindessertfromapatisserieandit’sneverseenasafailureonthehost’spart–butIguaranteethatifyoudogototheextraeffortofmakingdessert,yourguestswillloveyouforit.Inaway,dessertisthemostsocialofallthecourses–whenyougooutfordinnerit’stheonecoursewherefriendswilltendtotasteabitofeveryoneelse’s.Itcreatesabuzz,agrandfinale,andit’sthememoryguestswillgoawaywith.Thesameappliesathome,sopersonallyIalwaysliketoendthenightonasweetnote.Itneedn’tbeanythinghugelycomplicatedanditcertainlyneedn’tbetime-consumingtomakebutitjustleaveseveryoneinagoodmood,withafeelingthattheyhavebeenwelllookedafter.

Ofallthecourses,thisistheonetohavemadeinadvancesowhenit

Ofallthecourses,thisistheonetohavemadeinadvancesowhenitcomestoit,it’sjustaquestionoftakingitoutofthefridgeorfreezer,orputtingitintheoven.You’llhavebeendoingenoughworkbetweencoursesalready,sodoyourselfafavourandmakethislastcourseasstraightforwardaspossible.Trustme,thisisn’tthetimetotryyourhandatmakingasouffléforthefirsttime.You’llfindlotsofsuggestionsinthischapter.Jelliesarealwaysbrilliantbecause,well,we’reallkidsatheartandwhodoesn’tlikejelly?Especiallyagrown-upversionwithalittlekickofalcohol.Thesamegoesforicecreams,sorbetsandmousses.Theyallhavetobemadeinadvanceandwillsithappilyinthefridgeorfreezeruntilthemomentyouwanttoservethem.It’salwaysagoodideatohavetried-and-testeddisheslikethesereadyandwaiting.Thatwayevenifoneoftheothercoursesdoesn’tgoaccordingtoplan(andbelieveme,thatcanhappentoallofus),you’llpaniclessknowingthatatleastthefinalewillbeatriumph.

Ithinkthesecretofareallysuccessfulpuddingistogiveitatwist.Makeitadventurousandunexpectedandyourguestswillbesuretorememberitlongaftertheygohome.Therearesomanywaysyoucanplaywithtraditionaldesserts:addalittlechilliandstaranisetopoachedpears,somelavendertoatraditionalcrèmecaramel,blackpeppertoabananatartetatin.Actually,addingspiceingeneralisagreatwayofjazzingupafamiliarpudding.Evenasimplebowlofstrawberriescanbelivenedupwithadrizzleofbalsamicvinegarandatwistofblackpepper.Basilleavesdosomethingsimilartoalemonsorbetorgranita.Andmyvanillasaltisabrilliantadditiontothinlyslicedpineapple.Bothgreencardamomandthemoreexoticallyperfumedblackcardamomgoperfectlywithcaramel-basedpuddingssuchastartetatinandalsowithchocolate.Theslightlymedicinalflavourofbayleavesworkssurprisinglywellinsweetcustards,especiallywhenpouredoveranapplecrumble.Ortryaddingrosemaryandthymeinmoderationtoorangeorraspberryjelliesandthelike.

Whenitcomestospeedandsimplicity,youwon’tgofarwrongifyoukeepsomeready-rolledpufforsweetshortcrustpastrytohand.Simplybrushthepastrywithalittlewarmjam,layonslicesoffruit–apple,pearorplumallworkwell–dustwithicingsugarandbakeintheovenuntilthepastryiscooked.MyPearandGingerGaletteisbarelymorecomplicatedthanthatandmakesastunningpudding.Alternatively,theholytrinityofquickpuddingingredientsaredoublecream(differentcreamshavedifferentusesaccordingtotheirfatcontentsoseemyguide),Greekyoghurtandfrozenberries.Ifyouhavethesethreeinyourfridgeorfreezeryouareonly

minutesawayfromalovelyfruitfool.Simplywhiskthecream,addalittleyoghurttocuttherichnessandfoldinicingsugarandberriestotaste.Servewithashortbreadbiscuitandyou’vegotapuddingworthyofanydinnerparty.Ifyou’vegotsomemeringuestocrumblein,evenbetter.Yousee,homecookingshouldneverbeover-elaborateandasI’vesaidbefore,betterarelaxedhostandsimplefoodthanastressedhostandcomplexfood.

CLOTTEDCREAM

Thisismadebyheatingandcoolingdoublecream,thenskimmingofftherich“clotted”crust.At55percentbutterfat,it’stoothicktocookwithbutmakesaluxuriousaccompanimenttosconesorpuddings.

DOUBLECREAMAtnearly50percentbutterfat,doublecreamisaversatile,generalpurposecreamidealfordessertsandice-cream.Oncewhippeditcanbeverydense,soIsometimesmixitwithGreekyoghurttomakeitlessheavy.

WHIPPINGCREAM

At35percentbutterfat,thisisthinnerandslightlyhealthierthandoublecreambut,asthenamesuggests,stillholdsitsshapewellwhenwhipped.As

creambut,asthenamesuggests,stillholdsitsshapewellwhenwhipped.Aswithdoublecreamyouhavetobecarefulnottooverbeatit,oritwillbecomegranular.Ifthishappens,addasplashmorecreamandbeatitslowlyuntilsmoothagain.

SINGLECREAM

About20percentbutterfat,singlecreamisidealforpouringoverpuddingsorforenrichingsoupsandsauces.Itisnotsuitableforboilingasitwillcurdle.

CRÈMEFRAÎCHEAmixofsourandfreshcream,crèmefraîchehasalovelytangyflavour.Itwillnevercurdleorseparatewhenboiledand,becauseitisnaturallythick,isidealforgarnishingsoups.

CHOCOLATE

Aswithwineandcoffee,therehasbeenanexplosionofinterestintheprovenanceofproperchocolaterecently.Moreandmorepeoplearestartingtounderstandhowdifferent70percentValrhona,say,isfromabarofBournville.Fromthehomecook’spointofview,thisisfantasticbecauseitmeansit’snolongerjusttheprofessionalchefswhohaveaccesstochocolatewithhigherlevelsofcocoasolids.Believeme,whencookingwithchocolate,itreallyisacaseofgettingoutwhatyouputin.Evenwhenmakingsomethingforthechildren,I’llalwaysusehigh-quality.Youcanalwaysaddmoresugarorcreamtomakeitmoreappealingtoyoungtastebuds.

PINEAPPLECARPACCIOWITHPOMEGRANATEANDVANILLASALT

APEROLSPRITZJELLY

LEMONANDBASILGRANITA

BANANAANDCOCONUTFRITTERS

SPICEDBANANATARTETATIN

LAVENDERCRÈMECARAMEL

ESPRESSOPANNACOTTAWITHCINNAMONHAZELNUTBRITTLE

ETONMESSBOMBE

PEARANDGINGERGALETTE

MANGOPARFAITPOTSWITHMACERATEDBERRIES

WHITECHOCOLATEANDLIMEMOUSSE

APPLECOMPOTEWITHACREAMYWHIP

STEAMEDDATEPUDDINGWITHBUTTERSCOTCHSAUCE

HAZELNUTMERINGUETOWER

CHILLIPOACHEDPEARSWITHSTARANISEDUST

CHOCOLATEANDPISTACHIOSEMIFREDDO

PINEAPPLECARPACCIOWITHPOMEGRANATEANDVANILLASALTSERVES4

Thisisalight,healthypuddingtointrigueyourguestswith.Itmaysoundstrangebutthecombinationofsalt,vanillaandverythinlyslicedpineapplereallyworkswell.

1largeripepineapple

1pomegranate

Smallbunchofmint,leavesshreddedFORTHEVANILLASALT

125gseasaltorfleurdesel1vanillapod,splitopenandseedsscrapedout1.Firstmakethevanilla

salt.Putthesaltandvanillaseedsintoabowlandmixwell.Placeinanairtightcontainerwiththeemptypodanduseasrequiredinbakingorsavourydishes.Themixturewillkeepindefinitely.

2.Cutofftheendsofthepineapple,thensliceofftheskinfromtoptobottom,keepingthefruitwhole.Cutthepineapplewidthwaysintoslicesabout1mmthicksoyouendupwithlotsofcircles.Setaside.

3.Cutthepomegranateinhalfhorizontally.Holdeachhalfinturnoverabowlandsmacktheskinwiththebackofawoodenspoonsothattheseedsdropintothebowl.Reserveanyjuicethatcomesoutoftheseedsasyouremovethem.

4.Toserve,sprinkleaservingplatterwithalittlevanillasalt.Arrangethepineappleslicesoverit,thensprinklewithalittleextravanillasalt,thepomegranateseedsandjuice.Finishwithalightsprinklingofthevanillasaltandtheshreddedmintleaves.

USINGSALTINSWEETDISHESAddingalittlesalttosweetdishesactuallyenhancesthesweetness.Ioftenaddapinchtocakes,biscuitsandespeciallycaramelsauces.Vanillasaltwouldworkwellinallofthese,too.Tryitalsosprinkledoverabutteryfilletofwhitefish.

APEROLSPRITZJELLYSERVES4

Aperolisabitter-sweetItalianaperitifmadefromherbsandroots,alittlelikeCampari.IfyougointoabarinnorthernItaly,especiallyVenice,you’llseepeopledrinkingSpritz,arefreshingdrinkmadeofAperol,proseccoandsparklingwaterandoftengarnishedwithasliceoforange.IthinkyoucanseewhereIgottheideaforthisjellyfrom.

7sheetsofleafgelatine

1×750mlbottleprosecco150gcastersugar6tbspAperol

4thinslicesoforange

1.Placethegelatinesheetsinasmallbowlofcoldwaterandleavefor5–10minutes,untilsoftened.

2.Pour100mlwaterandaquarteroftheproseccointoasaucepan,addthesugarandwarmoveralowheat,stirringoccasionally,untilthesugarhasdissolved.

3.Squeezeoutthegelatineandaddtothesaucepan,offtheheat,stirringuntildissolved.Strainthemixtureintoajugandsetasideuntilcool.

4.AddtheAperolandremainingproseccotothejugandstirwell.

5.Take4tumblers(about250mlcapacity)andinsertanorangesliceineachone,positioningitdiagonally.CarefullypourintheAperolmixture,sharingitequallybetweentheglasses.Chillovernightoruntilset(atleast4hours).

USINGFRUITINJELLIESIndividualjelliesusingfruitsuchasstrawberriesorraspberriesneedtobesetintwostages–otherwisethefruitwillfloattothetop.Usingsingleorangeorlemonslicesmakesthewholeprocesseasierbecausetheycanbewedgedagainstthesidesoftheglass.

LEMONANDBASILGRANITASERVES4Thisisalovelyrefreshingicethatwesometimesserveasapalate-cleansingpre-dessertintherestaurants.Thepepperinessofthebasilandfreshnessofthelemonworkreallywelltogether.Granitasaregreatthingstomakeathomebecauseyoudon’tneedanicecreammakerorhavetoworryaboutgettingasmoothtexture–thewholepointofthemisthattheyaregranular.Theyarebestmadeandeatenonthesameday,though,ortheycanbecomeblocksofice.

7unwaxedlemons–zestfrom1andjuicefromall150mlwater150gcastersugar

4basilsprigs,leavesonly

1.Putthelemonzestintoasmallsaucepan,straininthejuiceandaddthesugar.Stiroveramediumheatuntilthesugarhasdissolved.Allowtocoolfor5minutes.

2.Dilutethemixturewiththewatertotaste.Setaside4smallbasilleavesfordecoration,thenveryfinelychoptherest.Addtothelemonmixture.

3.Pourthesyrupintoaliddedplasticcontainerandfreezefor3hours,oruntilfrozenatthebottomandaroundtheedges.Swirlthemixturewithaforktobreakuptheicecrystals,thencoverandreturntothefreezerforanotherhour.Repeatthisfreezingandstirringprocesstwicemorebeforelettingthegranitafreezesolidwithagranulartexture.

4.Toserve,breakupthegranitawiththefork,thenspoonintochilledservingglasses.Garnishwiththereservedbasilleavesandserveimmediately.

BANANAANDCOCONUTFRITTERSMAKES12–16

ThisisadishIdiscoveredwhenIwastravellingaroundAsiaandithassincebecomeafirmfavourite.Asianfood–certainlythatofThailandandVietnam–usesalmostnodairyproductssothisisbasicallytheirtakeonamilk-andegg-freepancake.It’salsoagreatwaytouseupanybananasthatareturningblackinthefruitbowl.Asfarasthesefrittersareconcerned,theripertheyare,thebetter!

125gplainflour

1tspbakingpowder

75gcastersugar,plusextraforsprinkling25gdesiccatedcoconutFinelygratedzestof1limePinchofsalt4ripebananas,peeledandmashed(about400gfleshintotal)Vegetable

oil,forfrying1.Sifttheflourandbakingpowderintoalargebowl.Stirinthesugar,coconut,limezestandsalt.Stirthemashedbananasintothedryingredients,mixinguntilwellcombined.Coverthebatterwithclingfilmandchillfor15minutes.

2.Fillalargesaucepanone-thirdfullofoilandheatto180°C,oruntilacubeofbreaddroppedintheoilsizzlesandturnsgoldenin30seconds.

3.Usingatablespoon,carefullydrop4or5spoonfulsofthebatterintothehotoilandfryfor2–3minutes,untilgoldenbrownonbothsidesandcookedthrough.

4.Liftoutwithaslottedspoon,drainonkitchenpaper,andrepeatwiththerestofthemixture.Servehot,sprinkledwithalittlesugar.

SPICEDBANANATARTETATINSERVES6

ThistwistonthefamousFrenchappleorpeartartetatinisnotonlyoneoftheeasiestdessertsintheworldtomakebutoneofthemostdelicious.Italsoshowsjusthowbrilliantlyunusualcombinationscanwork.Blackpepperprovidestheheatandthepinkpeppercornsamildfruitiness.Ineverbothermakingmyownpuffpastryathome–justmakesureyoubuyanall-butterone.

50gbutter,softened

1vanillapod,splitopenandseedsscrappedout½tsppinkpeppercorns,crushedinamortar½tspblackpeppercorns,crushedinamortar100gcastersugar

6largeripebananas,peeled

320gready-rolledsheetofall-butterpuffpastry

1.Preheattheovento200°C/Gas6.

2.Spreadthebutterevenlyacrossthebaseofa20cmovenprooffryingpan.Addboththevanillapodandseeds.Topwithathirdofthecrushedpeppercorns,thensprinkleoverthesugar.

3.Peelthebananasandcutintopieces3–4cmthick.Arrangethem,cutsidedown,inconcentriccirclesinthepansothattheyarethesameheightastherim.Sprinkleoveranotherthirdofthecrushedpeppercorns.

4.Unrollthepastrysheetand,usingaplateslightlylargerthanthetopofthepan,cutoutacircle.Drapethepastryoverthebananasandtucktheedgesdownthesidesofthepanwiththebackofaspoon.Piercethepastryafewtimeswiththetipofasharpknife.

5.Placethepanoveramedium-highheatfor3–4minutes,untilthesugardissolves,thenshakegentlyasitcaramelisestoatoffeecolourandstartstobubbleupthesides.Transfertotheovenandbakefor30–35minutes,untilthepastryis

goldenbrown.Leavethetartetostandfor10minutes,theninvertitcarefullyontoaservingdish.

6.Removethevanillapod,sprinklethetartewiththeremainingcrushedpeppercorns,thencutintowedgesandserve.

HOWTOMAKETHEPERFECTTARTETATINIt’simportanttomakeacoupleofholesinthepastrylid,otherwisethesteamcaughtunderneathwillstopthepastryfromcooking.Beforeturningoutthetarte,giveitaquickblastofheatonthehob,shakingthepanslightlytohelptoreleasethefruitcleanlyfromthecaramel.

LAVENDERCRÈMECARAMELSERVES4

Aproperlymadecrèmecaramel,richwithvanillaseedsanddrippingwithcaramel,isanall-timeclassic.I’vemainlystuckwithtraditionhere,butthehintoflavendergivesitanotherdimension.Youcanbuylavendersugarandedibleflowersfromsomesupermarkets,butit’seasytomakeyourown.Simplyputdriedunsprayed(i.e.edible)lavendersprigsintogoldencastersugarandstoreinanairtightcontainer.Thelongerthelavenderisleftinthesugar,themoreintensetheflavour.Ialsoliketouselavendersugarwhenmakingshortbread.

150ggoldencastersugar

1tsplavenderflowers,plusafewextrafordecorationButter,forgreasing

500mlwholemilk

4free-rangeeggs

Seedsfrom1vanillapod

50glavendersugar

1.Preheattheovento150°C/Gas2.Setout4×150mlramekins.

2.Putthefirstquantityofsugarintoasmall,heavy-basedpanoveramedium-lowheatandallowittodissolvecompletely.Atthatpoint,turnuptheheatandboilbrieflyuntilitbecomesadarkgoldencaramel(2–3minutes).

3.Pourthecaramelintotheramekinsstraightaway,dividingitequally,andsprinkleeachonewithacoupleoflavenderflowers.Setasidetocool(notinthefridge).Oncethecaramelhasset,greasetheinsidesoftheramekinswithathinlayerofbutter.

4.Placethemilkinasaucepanandwarmgentlyoveralowheatuntiljustbelowscaldingpoint.

5.Meanwhile,puttheeggs,vanillaseedsandlavendersugarintoabowlandwhiskthoroughly.Graduallypourthehotmilkintotheeggmixture,whiskingasyoudoso,untilcompletelysmooth.Transferthemixturetoajugforthenextstep.

6.Placetheramekinsinalinedroastingtin(seetip)andfillthemwiththecustard,dividingitequallybetweenthem.Pourboilingwaterintothetrayuntilitcomeshalfwayupthesidesofthedishes(beingcarefulnottogetanysplashesinthecustard).

7.Carefullytransferthebain-marietotheovenandcookthepuddingsfor25–35minutes,untilsetbutwithaslightwobbleinthemiddle.

8.Removethedishesfromthetinandallowtocool.Thisisbestdoneovernightinthefridgesothatthecaramelandcustardcanproperlycombine.

9.Toserve,loosenthecrèmecaramelsbydippingtheramekinsinhotwaterandrunningaknifearoundtheinsideedge.Placeaplateovereachramekinand,holdingtightly,invertboth,givingthedishalittleshakeifnecessary.Servedecoratedwiththeremaininglavenderflowers.

HOWTOMAKEPERFECTCUSTARDWhenmakingcustard,itisimportanttotakethemilkofftheheatjustbeforeitboils.Also,onlywhisktogetherthesugarandeggsatthelastminute,otherwisetheyolkswillstarttobecomerunny.

ESPRESSOPANNACOTTAWITHCINNAMONHAZELNUTBRITTLESERVES4

Pannacotta,or‘cookedcream’,istheposhItalianequivalentofourownblancmangeandallthemoredelicious.It’sveryeasytomakeandcanbeflavouredwithanythingyoulike,fromvanillaorlemontoroseorchocolate.Mycoffee-flavouredversionisdistinctlygrown-up,especiallywhenservedwithanutbrittle.I’veusedhazelnutshere,butalmonds,walnutsorpecanswouldallworkjustaswell.

3sheetsofleafgelatine

400mldoublecream

75mlwholemilk100gcastersugar50mlespressoshot(ifunavailable,replacewith1½tbspcoffeegranules

dissolvedin50mlboilingwater)

FORTHEBRITTLE50gblanchedhazelnuts200gcastersugar

1tspgroundcinnamon

1.Placethegelatinesheetsinasmallbowlofcoldwaterandleavefor5–10minutes,untilsoftened.Setout4×175mldariolemouldsorramekins.

2.Putthecream,milk,sugarandcoffeeintoasmallheavy-basedsaucepan.Placeoveramedium-lowheatandbringtoasimmer.Immediatelyremovefromtheheat.

3.Squeezeoutthesoakedgelatineleavesandstirthemintothehotcream,mixingwelluntilcompletelydissolved.Setasidetocoolslightly.

4.Meanwhile,rinsethemouldsorramekinsincoldwater,butdon’tdrythem.Thiswillmakethepannacottaseasiertoturnoutonceset.Pourthepannacottamixturethroughasieveintoajug,thenpourintothewaitingmoulds.Placeinthefridgeandleavetosetovernight.

5.Preheattheovento180°C/Gas4.

6.Meanwhile,makethebrittle.Putthehazelnutsonabakingtrayandplaceintheovenfor10minutes,oruntilgolden.

7.Lineanotherbakingtraywithgreaseproofpaperorasiliconmat.Sprinklethesugarintoaheavy-basedfryingpanandplaceoveramediumheatuntilthesugardissolvesandbeginstoturngolden.Swirlthepantoensureitcaramelisesevenly.Onceitisdarkgolden,addthetoastedhazelnutsandgroundcinnamon,swirltocombine,thentipintothepreparedbakingtray.Setasideuntilcompletelyhard.

8.Toserve,dipthemouldsinboilingwaterfor5seconds.Placeaplateovereachoneand,holdingtightly,invertboth,givingthemouldalittleshakeifnecessary.Breakthebrittleintoshardsandservealongsidethepannacottas.

HOWTOCOOLCARAMELNeverputcaramelintherefrigeratortocoolasitwillgostickyandsoggy.Roomtemperatureisbest.

ETONMESSBOMBESERVES8–10

EveryonelovesEtonmess,butasthenamesuggests,it’snotthemostelegant-lookingdessert.Somytwististofreezeitinapuddingbasinandthenturnitoutbeforeserving.Pouroverastrawberrycoulisandtopwithgratedchocolateanditsmakeoverfromnurseryfoodtodinnerpartyshow-stopperiscomplete.

800gstrawberries,hulled

Icingsugar,fordusting

800mldoublecream

4–6best-qualityindividualmeringuesor

1largemeringue

50gwhiteordarkchocolatetoserve(youcouldalsousedarkchocolateflavouredwithmint)

1.Cutthestrawberriesintoquarters.Dusthalfoftheminicingsugarandplaceinasmallpanoveramediumheatfor3–4minutes,untilthefruitbeginstobreakdown.

2.Blitzthehotstrawberriesinablender,thenpushthemthroughasieveplacedoverabowltoremovetheseedsandcreateasmoothcoulis.Setasidetocool.

3.Meanwhile,whipthecreamuntilitbeginstothicken,butbeforeitreachessoftpeak.Breakthemeringue(s)intobite-sizedpieces,addtothecreamandgentlyfoldin.

4.Lightlystirhalfthecoulisandallthereservedstrawberriesintothecreamtocreatearippleeffect(thiswilllookgoodwhenserving).Transferthemixturetoa2litrepuddingbasinlightlyoiledandlinedwith3layersofclingfilm,coverwithmoreclingfilmandfreezeovernight,orforatleast2½hours.

5.Toserve,carefullyrunhottapwateraroundtheoutsideofthefrozenbasinuntilthepuddingcanbereleased.Removetheclingfilmandinvertthepuddingontoaservingplate.Drizzlewiththeremainingcoulis,finelygratethechocolateoveritandserve.

HOWTOWHIPCREAMAlwayswhipcreambyhandbecauseyou’llgetmoreofafeelforthetexture,especiallywhenyouwantalooser,three-quarterwhip.Doitinbursts–10secondson,10secondsoff–togiveyourarmachancetorecover.

PEARANDGINGERGALETTESERVES4

Thisshowsjusthowquickandeasyitcanbetomakeafruittart,especiallyifyoutakethecheat’soptionofready-madepastry(inwhichcaseyou’llneeda320gsheetofall-buttersweetshortcrust).Youdon’tevenneedatarttinbecausethecrimpededgeskeepeverythinginplace.Iliketomakeonelargetartforafamilysupper,butyoucouldmakeindividualonesforamoreformaldinner.

4pears,peeled,quarteredandcored

1tbspdemerarasugar

1ballofpreservedstemginger,finelychopped

2tbspstemgingersyrup

3cmpieceoffreshrootginger,peeledandfinelygratedZestof1lemon

1free-rangeeggyolk

Icingsugar,fordustingCream,toserve

FORTHESWEETSHORTCRUSTPASTRY225gplainflour

2tbspicingsugar

150gcoldbutter,dicedZestof1lemon1free-rangeegg,beaten

1.Preheattheovento180°C/Gas4.Lineabakingsheetwithgreaseprooforbakingpaper.

2.Firstmakethepastry.Sifttheflourandicingsugarintoabowl.Addthebutterandrubitinwithyourfingertipsuntilthemixtureresemblescoarsebreadcrumbs.Stirinthelemonzest,thenaddtheeggandmixtocombine.Graduallyaddjustenoughice-coldwater(1–2tablespoons)toformadough.Kneadlightlyintoasmoothball,thenwrapinclingfilmandchillforatleast30minutes.

3.Whenready,flouraworksurfaceandrolloutthepastrytoathicknessof4mm(slightlythickerthana£1coin).Placea22cmdinnerplateupside-downonthepastryandcutaroundit.Transferthepastrycircletothepreparedbakingsheet.Theexcesspastrycanbesetasideforuseinanotherdishorfrozen.

4.Mixtogetherthepears,demerarasugar,bothgingers,thegingersyrupandhalfthelemonzest.

5.Arrangethepearsinaneatpatternaroundthecentreofthepastry,leavinga3cmemptyborderaroundtheedge.Brushtheborderwiththebeateneggyolk.

6.Foldupthepastryborderaroundthepears,crimpingitintoawavy‘wall’.Brushthetopofthepastryrimwithmoreeggwash,thendusteverythingwithicingsugar.Sprinkletheremaininglemonzestoverthetopandbakefor30–35minutes,untilthepastryisgoldenandthepearstenderandcaramelisingslightly.

7.Dustthefinishedtartwithalightsprinklingoficingsugar,thensliceandservewithalittlepouringcream.

MANGOPARFAITPOTSWITHMACERATEDBERRIESSERVES4

Aparfaitisnormallymadewitheggsandwhippedcream,butusingyoghurtsweetenedonlywithfruit,ashere,makesitlessrichbutnolessluxurious.DolookoutforIndianAlphonsomangoesduringtheirshortseasoninMayandJune.Theirsweetperfumedfleshisunrivalled.Ifthisallsoundstoohealthy,youcouldalwaysaddabitofalcoholtothemaceratedberries.CointreauorCrèmedecassiswouldbothbegood.

1ripemango

500mlnaturalyoghurt

FORTHEMACERATEDFRUIT200gmixedberries,e.g.blackberries,raspberriesandstrawberries,

hulledandquarteredorhalvedZestandjuiceof1smallorange

1tbspicingsugar

Smallhandfulofbasilleaves,finelyshredded

1.Firstpreparetheberries.Placetheminabowlandaddtheorangezest,sugarandbasil.Mixwell,coverwithclingfilmandsetasidetomacerateforanhourortwo.

2.Meanwhile,peelthemangoandremovethestone.Puréethefleshinablenderuntilsmooth.Layerthepuréeandyoghurtin4×200mlservingglassesandchilluntilrequired.(Ifyouhavetime,youmightliketoalternatethelayerstocreateastripyeffect.)

3.Whenreadytoserve,topeachglasswiththemaceratedberries.

HOWTOFREEZEPARFAITSParfaitscaneasilybemadeinadvance,ifpreferred,andthenfrozen.Removethemfromthefreezer10minutesbeforeservingtoallowthemtotemper.

WHITECHOCOLATEANDLIMEMOUSSESERVES4

Here’sastunninglysimplecrowd-pleasingdessertthatbringstogethertheclassicflavoursofchocolate,cream,raspberriesandmint.Thelimezestnotonlylooksprettybuthelpscuttherichnessofthemousse.

100gwhitechocolate

300mldoublecream

Zestof1lime,plusextratogarnish3largefree-rangeeggs,whitesonly50gcastersugar

150graspberries

3mintsprigs,leavestornorfinelyshredded

1.Breakthechocolateintosmallpiecesandplaceinaheatproofbowl.

2.Placehalfthecreaminasmallsaucepanandheatuntilitbeginstoboil.Pouritimmediatelyoverthechocolateandstiruntilthemixtureissmooth.Placethelimezestandtherestofthecreamintoanotherbowlandwhiskuntilitformssoftpeaks.Foldthismixtureintothemeltedchocolate.Setaside.

3.Inaseparatebowl,whisktheeggwhitesuntiltheyformsoftpeaks.Whiskinthesugaratablespoonatatime,andcontinuewhiskinguntilthemixtureisshiny,smoothandhasstiffpeaksthatholdtheirshape.Carefullyfolditintothechocolatemixture.

4.Setsomeraspberriesasideforgarnish,placetheresttogetherwiththemintinto4×200mlglassesora1litreservingbowl.Crushthefruitlightlywithafork.Spoonthechocolatemousseovertheraspberries,garnishwithafewextrafreshraspberriesandsprinklewithgratedwhitechocolateandlimezestandchillforatleast2hours,orovernightifyouhavethetime.

THESECRETTOPERFECTLYWHISKEDEGGWHITESTowhiskeggwhitesyouneedaspotlesslycleanbowlandbeaters.Any

Towhiskeggwhitesyouneedaspotlesslycleanbowlandbeaters.Anygreasewillstopthewhitesfromformingpeaks.

APPLECOMPOTEWITHACREAMYWHIPSERVES6

Atheartthisisjuststewedapplesandcream,butitshowshow,ifyouwantto,youcanenhanceeverycomponentofadishtocreatesomethinggreaterthanthesumofitsparts.Ilovethetasteofcaramelisedapplesinatartetatin,sowhynotrecreatethesameeffecthere,withsomespicesthrowninforgoodmeasure?Andbyaddingbeateneggwhitestothecream,youendupwithatoppingaslightassnow.

250gcastersugar

2dessertapplese.g.Braeburn,peeled,coredandchoppedintochunks2Bramleyapples,peeled,coredandchoppedintochunks3cmpieceoffreshrootginger,peeledandthicklysliced

3smallcinnamonsticks

75gbutter

2free-rangeeggwhites

250mldoublecream

Zestof1lemon

1.Sprinkle200gofthesugarintoahotheavy-basedpaninanevenlayer.Heatwithoutstirringuntilitbecomesagoldencaramel,swirlingthepannowandagainforanevencolour.

2.Addtheapples,gingerandcinnamonsticksandswirlsothateverythingiscoatedinthecaramel.Cookoveralowheatfor5minutes,thenaddthebutter.Cookforafurther5minutes,oruntiltheapplesaresoftandcollapsing.

3.Pourthemixtureintoasievesetoverabowlandallowtodrain.Reservetheliquid.

4.Removethegingerandcinnamonfromtheapplemixture,thenspoonthefruitinto6×175mlservingglasses.Reserveanyexcesscookingjuices.Chillforanhourorso.

5.Meanwhile,whisktheeggwhitesuntiltheyformsoftpeaks.Nowwhiskintheremainingsugaralittleatatime,untilthemixtureformsstiff,glossypeaks.

6.Inaseparatebowl,whipthecreamuntilthickenedandjustreachingsoftpeaks.Addthree-quartersofthelemonzestandgentlymix,thenstirintheremainingappleliquid(youcanreservesometodrizzleontop,ifliked).Finally,foldtheeggwhitesintothecreammixtureuntilcombined.

7.Spoonorpipethecreammixtureovereachchilleddishofapplecompote.Sprinkleovertheremaininglemonzestand,ifyoulike,drizzleoveranyreservedcookingjuices.Chillfor30minutesbeforeserving.

STEAMEDDATEPUDDINGWITHBUTTERSCOTCHSAUCESERVES6–8

Therearesomedishesyoushouldn’tmesswith,andthisisoneofthem.Justthinkingaboutitmakesmefeellikeakidagain.Inanageofmicrowavesandfastfood,itmayseemoddhavingtosteamapuddingfortwohours,butthisold-fashioneddessertwellrewardsthetimeyouinvest,Ipromise.

200gself-raisingflour75gsuet75gwalnuthalves,chopped175gpittedMedjooldates,roughlychopped

Finelygratedzestof1orange3tbsplightmuscovadosugar,orlightbrownsugar

1heapedtbspblacktreacle

1free-rangeegg

200mlwholemilk

FORTHEBUTTERSCOTCHSAUCE100gbutter75gsoftlightbrownsugar75ggoldensyrupPinchofcoarseseasaltSeedsfrom1vanillapod300mldoublecream1.

Greasean850mlpuddingbasinandlinethebottomwithacircleofbakingpaper.Cutanothercircleofbakingpaperabout5cmbiggerthanthetopofthebasinandmakea2cmpleatinthemiddle.

2.Sifttheflourintoalargebowl,thenaddthesuet,walnuts,dates,orangezest,sugarandtreacleandstirtogether.

3.Inaseparatebowl,lightlybeattheegg,thenaddthemilkandmixwell.Slowlypourthisliquidintotheflourmixture,stirringconstantlyuntilwellincorporated.Pourintothepreparedpuddingbasin.Placethepleatedpapercircleontopofthepuddingandcoverwithpleatedfoil.Tiesecurelyinplacewithstring,loopingitacrossthetoptomakeahandle.

4.Putatrivetorheatproofsaucerinalargesaucepan.Sitthepuddingontopandpourinenoughwatertocomehalfwayupthesidesofthebasin.Coverthepanwithatight-fittinglid,bringtotheboil,thensimmergentlyfor2–2¼hours,toppingupthewaterasnecessary.Whencooked,liftthepuddingoutofthewaterandleaveittositfor5minutes.

5.Meanwhile,makethesauce.Putthebutter,sugar,syrup,saltandvanillaseedsintoasmallsaucepanandplaceoveramediumheatuntileverythinghasmeltedtogether.Stirinthecreamandbubblefor5minutes,untilthemixturehasthickenedslightly.

6.Unwrapthepudding,invertitontoaservingplateandremovethesmallpapercircle.Servewedgesorspoonfulsofthepuddingwithagenerousdrizzleofthebutterscotchsauce.

USINGSUETSuethasfallenoutoffavourbutisafeatureofmanyclassicBritish

SuethasfallenoutoffavourbutisafeatureofmanyclassicBritishpuddings,fromJamRoly-polytoSpottedDick.Itaddstextureanddepthofflavourtoyourcooking,butifyouprefer,youcangrateinfrozenbutterasanalternative.

CHILLIPOACHEDPEARSWITHSTARANISEDUSTSERVES4

Thisisoneofthosepuddingsthattastessomuchmorecomplexthanitis,withthewarmingspicesaddinglayersofinteresttothesweetpears.Ilovecookingwithstaranise,whichisoneofthemainingredientsinChinesefive-spice.I’lloftenaddthestar-shapedpodstostocksandsyrups,asIdohere,butgrindingittoapowderandsprinklingitoverthepearsatthelastmomentalsomakesthedishbeautifullyfragrant.

125gcastersugar

1redchilli,halvedlengthways

Pinchofsaffron(optional)

2wholestaranise

4Conferencepears,peeled

FORTHEDUST4staranise

1tspgroundginger

1.Trimasmallsliceoffthebottomofthepearssothattheysituprightwhenyoucometoservethem.

2.Putthesugar,chilli,saffron(ifusing)andthestaraniseintoasaucepanlargeenoughtoholdthepearsandadd500mlwater.Placeoveramediumheatuntilthesugarhasdissolved,thenaddthepears.Simmergentlyfor8–10minutes,untilthepearsaretenderbutstillholdingtheirshape.

3.Meanwhile,makethedust.Putthestaraniseintoamortarandgrindtoapowderusingthepestle.Mixwiththegroundginger,thenstoreinascrewtopjaruntilneeded.

4.Whenthepearsareready,removethemfromthepan.Placethepoachingliquoroveramediumheatandreducefor10––––15minutesuntilthickenedandsyrupy.Eitherserveimmediatelyorsetasideandallowthepearstocoolinthesyrupovernight–thiswillintensifytheflavours.

5.Servethepearswarmorcoldwithalittlesyrupspoonedoverandsomestaranisedustsprinkledontop.

HOWTOCHOOSEPEARSFORPOACHINGThepearsshouldberipebutnotsoftorelsetheywilllosetheirshapewhenyoupoachthem.Trytoleavethestalkonwhenyoupeelthemforamoreprofessionallook.

CHOCOLATEANDPISTACHIOSEMIFREDDOSERVES10

Thesemifreddo(Italianfor‘half-cold’)isabitlikeacheat’sicecream.Youdon’thavetomakeacustardbaseorchurnitsmoothinanicecreammaker,yousimplycombinebeateneggs,whippedcreamandyourflavouringandfreezeit.Inmybook,thatmakesittheperfectmake-aheaddinnerpartypudding.

Oilorbutter,forgreasing275gdarkchocolate(70percentcocoasolids),plusextrafordecorating

4free-rangeeggs

100gcastersugar

500mldoublecreamSeedsfrom1vanillapod100gpistachionuts,looseskinrubbedoff

1.Lightlygreasetheinsideofa1kgloaftinwithoilorbutter,thenlineitwithtwolayersofclingfilm,leavingagenerousoverhang.

2.Breakthechocolateintopiecesandplaceinaheatproofbowlsetoverapanofsimmeringwater(itmustnotactuallytouchthewater).Heatuntilmelted,thenstirwellandsetasidetocoolfor5minutes.

3.Meanwhile,placetheeggsandsugarinanotherbowlandwhiskfor3–4minutes,untilpale,thickandfluffy.Whenthewhiskisraisedthemixtureshouldleaveatrailonthesurface.

4.Stirthecooledchocolateintotheeggmixture.

5.Putthecreamandvanillaseedsinaseparatebowlandwhiskuntilthemixtureformssoftpeaks.

6.Addthewhippedcreamtothechocolatemixture,thenfoldinthepistachios.Pourintothepreparedloaftin,coverwiththeoverhangingclingfilmandfreezeovernight,orforatleast3–4hours.(Infact,itcanbefrozenforupto2weeksbeforeyouwanttouseit.)

7.Removethesemifreddofromthefreezer10minutesbeforeservinginordertosoftenalittle.Runatableknifearoundtheinsideedgesofthetin,thenpeelbackthetopclingfilmandturnthesemifreddoontoaboardorservingplate.Removetherestoftheclingfilm,thengratealittleextradarkchocolateoverthetopbeforeslicingandserving.

INDEX

A

American-stylecheesebiscuitsAnchovies:

AnchovydipwithcruditésAnchovydressingBoiledeggswithanchovysoldiers

AperolspritzjellyApples:

AppleandceleriacsaladApplecompotewithacreamywhipCinnamoneggybreadwithquickstewedapple

Avocados:AvocadoandblacksesamesprinkleonsourdoughHowtostonePrawntostadaSpicyMexicansoup

B

BaconChickenfricasséeHashbrownbakedeggswithcandiedbaconSmokybacon,sweetcornandpotatosoup

Bain-marieBaklava,lemonandpistachioBalsamicfigjamBananas:

BananaandcoconutfrittersSpicedbananatartetatin

Basil:Lemonandbasilgranita

Beans:BakedspicyMexicaneggsHerbybutterbeansaladHome-madebakedbeanswithpotatocakesSpicyMexicansoup

Beef:Barbecue-styleslow-roastedbeefbrisketBeeffilletwithsalsaverdeBeefstewwithmustardsuetdumplingsSlowbraisedbeefcheekswithpappardelleStuffedribof

BeerbreadBeetroot:

Beetroot,corianderseedandorange-curedsalmonBeetroothoumouswithza’atarsprinklePotatoandbeetrootgratinRoastedbeetrootandthymerisotto

BirchermuesliBiscuits:

American-stylecheeseDulcedelechePeanutbutterandjamcookies

BloodyMarylinguineBread:

AvocadoandblacksesamesprinkleonsourdoughBeerbreadChipbuttyCinnamoneggybreadCourgetteandricottabruschettePanbagnatPear,goat’scheeseandwalnuttartineSaffronflatbreadsSourdoughWelshrarebitfingers

Brittle,cinnamonhazelnutBroccoli:

BroccolislawChargrilledbroccoliandbulgursalad

Bruschette,courgetteandricottaBubbleandsqueakjacketpotatoesBulgurandchargrilledbroccolisaladButter

MintParsley

Buttermilk:Buttermilk-friedchickenHarissa,mintandbuttermilkdressing

Butterscotchsauce

C

Cabbage:CrunchylightcoleslawTwice-bakedbubbleandsqueakjacketpotatoes

CaesarsaladCakes:

ChocolateandmintcaramelLemonandpoppyseedmadeleinesPearandcrunchygranolamuffins

Caramel:ChocolateandmintcaramelcakeCoolingcaramelDulcedelechebiscuitsSaltedcaramelpopcorn

Carpaccio:Pineapplecarpacciowithpomegranateand

vanillasaltCarrots:

BraisedpeasandcarrotswithmintbutterCarrot,cuminandorangesalad

Celeriac:Appleandceleriacsalad

Celery:Quicksweetpickledcelery

Ceviche,mackerelCheese:

American-stylecheesebiscuitsBurratawithquickbalsamicfigjamandcrostiniCaesarsaladCrushedpotatoeswithspringonionsandcheese

FennelsausagefrittataFeta,watermelon,cucumberandmintsaladHalloumi,courgetteandherbcakesMerguez-sausage-and-Fontina-stuffedcroissantsPanbagnatPear,goat’scheeseandwalnuttartinePloughman’ssaladShepherd’spiewithcheesechamptoppingWelshrarebitfingersSeealsoricottacheeseChicken:ButterflyingachickenbreastButtermilk-friedchickenCaesarsaladChickenfricasséeCrispyskinonroastchickenGriddledchickenthighswithchickpeas,piquillopeppersand

lemonydressingRoastchickenwithchickpeastuffingStickyspicedchickenwingsStock

Chickpeas:Beetroothoumouswithza’atarsprinkleGriddledchickenthighswithchickpeas,piquillopeppersand

lemonydressingRoastchickenwithchickpeastuffing

Chillies:ChillidressingChillimintedmushypeasChillipoachedpearsGrilledlobsterwithchilli,garlicandparsleybutterHandlingMaximisingheatfromPicodegallodip

SpicyclamnoodlesoupSpicyMexicansoupThairicewithcurrypasteandgreenherbs

ChinesebraisedoxtailChinesepancakes,crispyroastduckwithChipbuttyChocolate:

ChocolateandmintcaramelcakeChocolateandpistachiosemifreddoCranberry,marshmallowandpeanutchocolatefridgecakeWhitechocolateandlimemousse

Cinnamon:CinnamoneggybreadCinnamonhazelnutbrittle

Clams:Spicyclamnoodlesoup

Coconut:Bananaandcoconutfritters

Coffee:EspressopannacottaColeslaw,crunchylight

Compote,appleCookies,peanutbutterandjamCourgettes:

CourgetteandricottabruschetteHalloumi,courgetteandherbcakesPanbagnatCranberry,marshmallowandpeanutchocolatefridgecake

Cream:EtonmessbombeWhippingCrèmecaramel,lavenderCroissants,merguez-sausage-and-Fontina-stuffed

Cucumber:

Cucumber:Feta,watermelon,cucumberandmintsaladGazpachoHoisinandcucumbersaladPrawnandcucumbersalad

Custard,perfect

D

Dates:Steameddatepuddingwithbutterscotchsauce

Dips:AnchovyPicodegallo

DressingsAsianChilliHarissa,mintandbuttermilkLemonyMintandyoghurtMixingParmesanPeanutVinaigrette

Duck:CrispyroastduckwithChinesepancakes

DulcedelechebiscuitsDumplings,beefstewwithmustardsuet

E

Eggs:BakedspicyMexicanBoiledeggswithanchovysoldiersCinnamoneggybreadEggsBenedictwithcrispyParmahamFennelsausagefrittataHashbrownbakedeggswithcandiedbaconHollandaisesauceHowtosoftboilPeelinghard-boiledPoachedScotcheggsScrambledSmokedhaddockandspinachbakedeggsSpicedeggandspinachbreakfastwrapTunaniçoisesaladWhiskingeggwhites

EspressopannacottaEtonmessbombe

F

FennelsausagefrittataFigs:

QuickbalsamicfigjamFish:

Beetroot,corianderseedandorange-curedsalmonChoosingandhandlingGingerbeer-batteredfishGriddledsardineswithgremolataHome-madefishfingersMackerelcevichewithshavedfennelandgrapefruitSalt-crustseabreamSmokedhaddockandspinachbakedeggsStickyteriyakisalmonTunaniçoisesalad

Flatbreads,saffronFlourFreezingfoodFridgecake,cranberry,marshmallowandpeanutchocolateFrittata,fennelsausageFritters,bananaandcoconutFruit:

TangyfruitsaladUsinginjelliesSeealsoindividualtypesoffruit

G

Galette,pearandgingerGazpachoGinger:

Gingerbeer-batteredfishPearandgingergalettePeelingrootginger

Goat’scurd,griddledpolentawithroastedvinetomatoesandGoldensyrupGranita,lemonandbasilGranola:

Home-madePearandcrunchygranolamuffins

Grapefruit,mackerelcevichewithshavedfennelandGratin,potatoandbeetrootGreenbeans:

Stir-friedgreenbeanswithsoyandpeanutdressingTunaniçoisesalad

Gremolata,griddledsardineswithGriddles,usingGrilling

H

Ham:EggsBenedictwithcrispyParmahamPanbagnat

HashbrownbakedeggswithcandiedbaconHazelnuts:

BraisedleekswithhazelnutsCinnamonhazelnutbrittleHazelnutmeringuetower

Herbs:ChoppingHalloumi,courgetteandherbcakesHerbybutterbeansaladSalsaverdeUsingfreshherbs

HollandaisesauceHoney:

CrispyfilowithhoneyedyoghurtMeasuring

HorseradishYorkshirepuddingsHotpot,sausageandcaramelisedredonionHoumous,beetroot

J

Jam:PeanutbutterandjamcookiesQuickbalsamicfig

Jars,sterilisingJelly

AperolspritzjellyUsingfruitin

Juliennestrips,cutting

L

Lamb:AromaticlambchopswithmintyyoghurtLambkoftaswithmintandyoghurtdressingMakingyourownminceShepherd’spiewithcheesechamptopping

LavendercrèmecaramelLeeks:

BraisedleekswithhazelnutsLemons:

JuicingLemonandbasilgranitaLemonandpistachiobaklavaLemonandpoppyseedmadeleinesLemonydressing

Lime:Whitechocolateandlimemousse

Lobster:Grilledlobsterwithchilli,garlicandparsleybutter

M

MangoparfaitpotsMarshmallows:

Cranberry,marshmallowandpeanutchocolatefridgecakeMayonnaise,chipotleMerguez-sausage-and-Fontina-stuffedcroissantsMeringues:

EtonmessbombeHazelnutmeringuetower

Mexicaneggs,bakedspicyMexicansoup,spicyMint:

AromaticlambchopswithmintyyoghurtChillimintedmushypeasChocolateandmintcaramelcakeFeta,watermelon,cucumberandmintsaladHarissa,mintandbuttermilkdressingLambkoftaswithmintandyoghurtdressingMintbutter

Mousse,whitechocolateandlimeMuesli,quickbircherMuffins,pearandcrunchygranolaMusselswithcherrytomatoesandpancettaMustardsuetdumplings

N

Noodles:SpicyclamnoodlesoupNutsseeindividualtypes

O

OatsHome-madegranolaPearandcrunchygranolamuffinsQuickbirchermuesliSpicedbakedporridge

Olives:PanbagnatTunaniçoisesalad

Onions:QuickpickledSausageandcaramelisedredonionhotpot

Oranges:Beetroot,corianderseedandorange-curedsalmonCarrot,cuminandorangesalad

Oxtail,Chinesebraised

P

PanbagnatPancetta,steamedmusselswithcherrytomatoesandPannacotta,espressoParmaham,eggsBenedictwithPparsleybutterPasta:

BloodyMarylinguineCookingMakingsilkypastasaucesOrzopastasaladSlowbraisedbeefcheekswithpappardellePastrySweetshortcrust

Peanuts:Cranberry,marshmallowandpeanutchocolate

fridgecakePeanutbutterandjamcookiesPeanutdressing

Pears:ChillipoachedpearsPearandcrunchygranolamuffinsPearandgingergalettePear,goat’scheeseandwalnuttartine

Peas:BraisedpeasandcarrotswithmintbutterChillimintedmushypeas

Peppers:GazpachoGriddledchickenthighswithchickpeas,piquillopeppersand

lemonydressingPanbagnat

Pesto:SundriedtomatoThymewalnut

Pickles:PickledonionsQuicksweetpickledcelery

PicodegallodipPineapplecarpacciowithpomegranateandvanillasaltPistachionuts:Chocolateandpistachiosemifreddo

LemonandpistachiobaklavaPloughman’ssaladPolenta:

Griddledpolentawithroastedvinetomatoesandcreamygoat’scurdPomegranates:

PineapplecarpacciowithpomegranateandvanillasaltPomegranatemolasses-marinatedspatchcockquail

Popcorn,saltedcaramelPork:

Slow-cookedsmokypulledporkbuttwithchipotleMayo

Porridge,spicedbakedPotatoes:

BakednewpotatoeswithtruffleandParmesanBoilingChipbuttyChoosingCrispingupmashedCrushedpotatoeswithspringonionsandcheeseFryingwithbutterHashbrownbakedeggswithcandiedbacon

Home-madebakedbeanswithpotatocakesPotatoandbeetrootgratinSautéedShepherd’spiewithcheesechamptoppingSmokybacon,sweetcornandpotatosoupSpicedsweetpotatowedgesTunaniçoisesaladTwice-bakedbubbleandsqueakjacketpotatoes

Prawns:PrawnandcucumbersaladPrawntostada

Q

Quail,pomegranatemolasses-marinatedspatchcockQuinoasalad

R

RadishsaladRice:

RoastedbeetrootandthymerisottoStir-fryingcookedriceThairicewithcurrypasteandgreenherbs

Ricottacheese:Courgetteandricottabruschette

S

SaffronflatbreadsSaladsSalsaverdeSalt:

SaltedcaramelpopcornUsinginsweetdishesVanillasalt

Sauces:ButterscotchDippingHollandaiseMakingsilkypastasauces

Sausages:FennelsausagefrittataMerguez-sausage-and-Fontina-stuffedcroissantsSausageandcaramelisedredonionhotpot

ScotcheggsSeasonalfoodSemifreddo,chocolateandpistachioShepherd’spiewithcheesechamptoppingShortcrustpastry,sweetSobanoodlesaladSoups:

CreamytomatosoupwithsundriedtomatopestoGazpachoSmokybacon,sweetcornandpotatoSpicyMexican

Spices:Spicedbakedporridge

SpicedeggandspinachbreakfastwrapSpicyclamnoodlesoupSpicyMexicaneggsSpicyMexicansoupToasting

Spinach:SmokedhaddockandspinachbakedeggsSpicedeggandspinachbreakfastwrapStuffedribofbeef

Stew:Beefstewwithmustardsuetdumplings

Stirfries:StirfriedgreenbeanswithsoyandpeanutdressingStir-fryingcookedrice

StockStorecupboardStrawberries:

EtonmessbombeSuet:

BeefstewwithmustardsuetdumplingsSteameddatepuddingUsing

Sugar,choosingthecorrectSundriedtomatoes:panbagnat

SundriedtomatopestoSweetpotatoes:

SpicedsweetpotatowedgesSweetcorn:

Smokybacon,sweetcornandpotatosoup

T

Tartine,pear,goat’scheeseandwalnutTarts:

PearandgingergaletteSpicedbananatartetatin

ThairicewithcurrypasteandgreenherbsThyme:

RoastedbeetrootandthymerisottoThymewalnutpesto

Tins,bakingTomatoes:

BloodyMarylinguineCreamytomatosoupwithsundriedtomatopestoEnhancingtheflavourGazpachoGriddledpolentawithroastedvinetomatoes

andcreamygoat’scurdHome-madebakedbeanswithpotatocakesPanbagnatSlow-roastedtomatoandwatercresssaladSteamedmusselswithcherrytomatoesandpancetta

Tostada,prawnTruffles:

BakednewpotatoeswithtruffleandParmesanTunaniçoisesalad

V

VanillasaltVinaigrette,classic

W

Walnuts:Pear,goat’scheeseandwalnuttartineThymewalnutpesto

Watercress:Slow-roastedtomatoandwatercresssalad

Watermelon:Feta,watermelon,cucumberandmintsalad

Welshrarebitfingers

Y

Yoghurt:CrispyfilowithhoneyedyoghurtLambkoftaswithmintandyoghurtdressing

Yorkshirepuddings,horseradish

Z

Za’atarZestingcitrusfruit

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS

FirstlyamassivethankyoutomyincrediblewifeTanaforherinputandsupportandtoourfourchildren,Megan,Jack,HollyandTillyfortheirinvolvementandforbeingsuchamazingsports.Icouldneverdoitwithoutyou.

ThevisionandcommitmentfromthetalentedHodderteam–NickyRoss,SarahHammond,AlasdairOliver,KateBrunt,SusanSpratt,JoannaSeatonandEleniLawrence–hasmadeanotherexcitingandengagingbookpossible.

ImustmentiontheaccomplishedTonyTurnbullforhisdedicatedassistanceinproducingyetanotherwonderfulbook.

SarahDurdinRobertsonandLisaHarrisondeserverecognitionforselflesslypouringtheirheartsandsoulsintoeverythingtheydoforme.I’dalsoliketothankAnnaBurges-Lumsdenforhercontinuedhardworkandsupport.

JamesEdgarhasmyrespectforhisgifteddesignandartdirectionwhichhasledtoanappealingandcaptivatingbook.

AbigthankyoutocopyeditorsTrishBurgessandMirenLopateguiwhoseattentiontodetailissecondtonone.

ThefabulousimagesthroughoutthebookaretheworkofphotographerConPoulosandstylistElodieRambaud,whoseflairisapparentineverypicture.

IwouldliketothankOnePotatoTwoPotatoforproducinganotherbrilliantseries,especiallyPatLlewellyn,BenAdler,SueMurphy,PaulRatcliffe,MelanieBones,ColinSteele,AnnaHorsburghandMirandaSherriff.Iamsoproudofthisteamwhoseenergyandenthusiasmneverflounders.

ThanksalsotoCharlesWalkeratUnitedAgents.Lastly,IwouldliketomentionJenniferAves-Elliott,myassistant,whose

extraordinaryskillsandpatienceenablemetoachievesomuchofwhatIdo.Iremaineternallygrateful.