goodshaus.com Berlin Celebrates 50 Years of Unikko at Marimekko
-
Upload
goodshauscom -
Category
Documents
-
view
232 -
download
0
description
Transcript of goodshaus.com Berlin Celebrates 50 Years of Unikko at Marimekko
2
50 YE A R S O F U N I KKO
MA IJA I S O L A´S C L AS S I C PAT TER N WAS B O R N IN 1964
AF TER AR M I R AT IA , MAR IM EKKO´S F O U N D ER , HAD
AN N O U N C ED THAT MAR IM EKKO W O U LD N E VER P R IN T
A FLOW ER PAT TER N . MA I JA R EF U S ED TO O B E Y AR M I´S
O R D ER S AN D – IN P R OTEST – C R E ATED AN EN T IR E
S ER I ES O F G O R G EO U S FLO R AL P R IN TS . O N E O F TH EM
WAS U N IKKO (P O P P Y ) – N OW 50 Y E AR S YO U N G .
OVER TH E Y E AR S , U N IKKO HAS IN S P I R ED MAN Y O F U S .
I T HAS B EC O M E A STO RY O F C R E AT IV IT Y, STR EN GTH ,
C O U R AG E AN D FA ITH IN O N ES ELF.
I N 2014, W E W I LL B E C ELEB R AT IN G U N IKKO AR O U N D
TH E W O R LD – W ITH TH E J OY AN D EN ER GY B EF IT T IN G
TH I S I C O N I C P R IN T D ES I G N . F O LLOW TH E FEST IV IT I ES
O N O U R U N IKKO W EB S ITE AN D S HAR E YO U R OW N STO RY.
MAR IM EKKO.C O M/U N IKKO
#U N IKKO50
facebook.com/marimekkoglobal
instagram.com/marimekkoglobal
instagram.com/marimekkousa
twitter.com/marimekkoglobal
twitter.com/marimekkousa
pinterest.com/marimekkoglobal
youtube.com/marimekkovideo
weibo.com/marimekkoofficial
54
Maija Isola, the creator of Unikko, was a vi-
sionary designer who blazed her own path. She
travelled extensively and lived in several coun-
tries during her lifetime. As much as in her work
as in other parts of her life, Maija shunned all
things conventional and predictable. Freedom
fuelled her passion for work: it was the fire and
inspiration behind her print designs and paint-
ings. The origin of the Unikko print shows how
Maija held onto her artistic integrity and was
prepared to defy authority.
Armi Ratia, the founder of Marimekko and
an ambitious textile designer in her own right,
sought to create modern patterns that would
match with contemporary homes and their new
streamlined furniture. For Armi, modern was
synonymous with an abstract design language, a
clear and unapologetic form factor, and carefree
simplif ication. Her vision represented a marked
departure from the delicate and cute floral pat-
terns common in Finland during the 1950s. No
wonder Armi opposed Maija Isola’s floral print
designs in 1964.
Yet Unikko showed that a flower could also
be modern. It embodied the spirit of the 1960s
flower power revolution, and had plenty of pro-
vocative self-expression. People were attracted
to Unikko’s bold colours and unusual dimen-
sions. And its full-bodied form had the same
sense of humour and exaggeration as Pop Art
– the dominant art movement of the era.
Unikko was greeted with a warm welcome
when it was launched in 1964. With the excep-
tion of a few ready-made products, it was sold
as a fabric by the metre. Finnish furniture manu-
facturers used Unikko in baby cribs, laminated
plywood sofa tables and oilcloth-upholstered
sofas.
Maija Isola was open-minded about the use
of her print designs. She liked the idea that her
patterns were sold by the metre and that people
could do whatever they wanted with the fabric.
She hoped that people would bring their own
meaning and purpose to her design work. Maija
especially enjoyed receiving letters in which
customers shared their joy and creativity with
her. And of her many patterns, Unikko is prob-
ably the one that has inspired people the most.
Magazine clippings from the 1960s show how
Unikko was finding its way into the lives of or-
dinary people. In their hands, Unikko became,
among other things, original clothing, lamp-
shades and even wallpaper.
Unikko’s immense success continued until
the beginning of the 1980s, when interest in
bold patterns and colourways began to wane.
Unikko lay dormant until the turn of the millen-
nium, when it started to enjoy a greater role in
Marimekko s collections. The revival came into
full bloom, when Marimekko’s young fashion de-
signers started using classic fabric patterns in
their design work. The first ready-to-wear Unik-
ko clothing was designed during this period.
In 2000, the newly launched Unikko cloth-
ing collection heralded the beginning of a
global Unikko boom – to which there seems
to be no end. The classic print has also blos-
somed in countless everyday products: Nordic
walking poles, rubber boots, televisions, mobile
phones, and computer mouses. Unikko’s grow-
ing presence in public spaces, homes and street
fashion has ushered in a new era of success for
Marimekko.
Today Unikko has established itself as one
of Marimekko’s most beloved classics – not only
in Finland but also around the world. This child
of the 1960s has grown into an admired adult,
whose future is full of life and colourful joy.
A MODERN CL ASS IC
76
ANNIVERSARY COLLECTION
5 0 T H A N N I V E R S A R Y U N I K KO
sateen fabric
O I VA / U N I K KO
tableware
98
We photographed Unikko’s
anniversary collection in Kiasma,
Museum of Contemporary Art
in Helsinki.
5 0 T H A N N I V E R S A R Y U N I K KO
fabrics
1110
U N I K KO
cushion covers
and fabrics
131 2
5 0 T H A N N I V E R S A R Y
U N I K KO
sateen fabric
O I VA / U N I K KO
mugs
1 514
5 0 T H A N N I V E R S A R Y U N I K KO
fabrics
16
The first Unikkos were printed
in red, blue and black. These classic
colourways rode with the f irst
wave of 1960s pop culture, when
Andy Warhol’s works inspired by
advertising and celebrity culture,
not to mention the swinging fashion
designers from London and the
Beatles, gave form to a new visual
dynamic. Pop culture also led to
a revolution in colour use:
conservative, broken colour
schemes gave way to a clear, bold
palette and large colour surfaces.
COLOUR 001 / 1964
COLOUR 002 / 1964
COLOUR 030 / 1964
U N IKKO HAS AS S U M ED A K ALE ID OS C O P I C R AN G E
O F LO O KS AN D G U IS ES IN TH E L AST 50 YE AR S .
S O M E T IM ES IT HAS B EEN FL AM B OYANT AN D
PL AYFU L ; OTH ER T IM ES CALM , G ENTLE AN D
FEST IVE . AN D E AC H O F TH ES E M O O DS HAS B EEN
AC H IE VED W ITH C O LO U R .
In fact, Unikko has blossomed in more than
eighty unique colourways over the years, each
conveying the mood and spirit of its own time.
Maija Isola, for her colourways, looked to weath-
er, contemporary cinema, art, music and even
news stories for inspiration. Wherever she trav-
elled, Maija carried along her notebook, writing
and drawing about interesting colour patterns.
Many of her notebooks are teeming with obser-
vations about weather conditions and natural
shades of colour.
UNIKKO: A LIFE
IN COLOURS
In the 1970s, the global oil crisis
and economic recession changed
the face of interior design: people
pined for the good old days and
a return to nature. Traditional
handicrafts and earth tones brought
desired warmth and cosiness.
The muted green and brown
Unikkos from that period went hand
in hand with the all-brown décors
of the 1970s.
COLOUR 009 / 1974
COLOUR 76 / 1974
COLOUR 97 / 1974
COLOUR 12 / 1966
COLOUR 31 / 1968
COLOUR 003 / 1968
Unikko was a wonderful way
for Maija to explore the impact
of colour on a print design.
Unikko would look different,
depending on whether the
selected colours accentuated
the petals or disk of the floral
design.
COLOUR 560 / 2011
COLOUR 580 / 2012
COLOUR 630 / 2006
In the 2000s, Unikko mirrored
bigger patterns of culture change
as lifestyles became increasingly
fragmented and varied. There
were more Unikko colourways
than ever before, and the original
print design experienced a radical
makeover with the introduction of
new colours. In 2002, Unikko was
printed on a colour background
for the f irst time. The same year,
Unikko was launched in pink and
light blue, which matched perfectly
with Maija Isola’s passion for
pastels. The first white Unikkos
were printed in 2009.
COLOUR 301 / 2002
COLOUR 556 / 2005
COLOUR 910 / 2009
Today Emma Isola, Maija’s
granddaughter, is responsible
for creating new Unikko colourways.
Her source of inspiration is Finnish
nature and its seemingly endless
range of colours. For example,
her Unikko colourway no. 560,
f irst seen in the 2011 spring
collection, captures the colourful
change of season as winter turns
to spring in Finland. You can see
the colours of the f irst flowers of
spring – anemones and coltsfoots
– glowing against a sky-blue
background. At the same time, her
Unikko colourway no. 580 faithfully
reproduces the many shades of
green you might f ind in a Finnish
pine forest.
232 2
MY FAVO U R ITE TH IN GS
A timeworn toy, an heirloom piece of silver
jewellery, the cretonne dress you find at the
back of the closet. Some things – by design or
luck – give birth to powerful emotional bonds,
evoking lasting memories of beloved people and
cherished moments. What kinds of memories
does Unikko awaken?
Since 1964, Unikko has delighted and thrilled
people around the world, regardless of culture
or passing trends. Finns in particular have al-
ways had a special rapport with Unikko – one
steeped in history and shared moments.
Today the best place to shed light on our
continuing relationship with Unikko is the Ma-
rimekko archive, where you can find countless
customer stories about the iconic print design.
These stories convey personal experiences and
open a window to a certain era and culture. Most
importantly, they show how objects can leave
imprints in our lives. Through these objects, in-
dividual experiences enter the realm of the col-
lective, joining us together in unexpected ways.
I N THE TU R N IN G P O INTS O F L I FE
Some of the earliest stories of Unikko paint
a picture of a dynamic generation living in the
social and political turmoil of the 1960s. No
wonder young Finns quickly embraced the rad-
ical print design as they set out to build a new,
wealthier society and a more just future. If any-
thing, Unikko gave pattern to the turning points
in young people’s lives. If you were in your
twenties in the 1960s, Unikko not only symbol-
ized the rite of leaving home but also the sense
of ecstasy that came with this new-found free-
dom. Many would spend the last of their money
on Unikko fabric and use it as a curtain or table-
cloth. Unikko would add a spark of inspiration
to an otherwise drab student accommodation
or a welcome touch of colour to a young cou-
ple’s first home. Unikko allowed people to be-
gin building their own identities with colour and
character.
With every new address or home, Unikko
would also follow in tow. It has been witness to
the many patterns of family life. Whenever there
was a wedding, graduation or christening, Finns
would proudly don Unikko dresses, gowns and
hats in celebration.
With the passing of years, the family’s origi-
nal Unikko print fabric, faded by sunlight or
worn threadbare, would be reborn as a pillow-
case, pot holder, patchwork quilt or rag rug.
U N IKKO U N ITES
For a long time, Finns, when travelling
abroad, could spot another Finn by a Unikko
dress or bag, largely because the iconic pat-
tern was not yet well known outside Finland.
Today Unikko is a global phenomenon, and its
UNIKKO IN
STORIES
2 524
popularity has travelled far beyond Finland. You
can bump into Unikko in the vibrant streets of
New York or Tokyo. You can even spot it in the
Australian outback. Unikko is a powerful mes-
sage, and if Marimekko is close to your heart,
the classic print represents something of a trib-
al emblem or symbol. When two Unikko people
meet unexpectedly, it’s the perfect moment for
a friendly chat or the beginning of a new friend-
ship.
In fact, it was just a few decades ago that
many Finns sewed their own clothes from Unik-
ko fabric, including maxi and miniskirts, suits
and bell-bottoms. These home-made garments
made more than a fashion statement. They com-
municated originality and a free-spirited take on
life. A Unikko girl would soon meet someone at a
party, because it was impossible to overlook her
flamboyantly colourful dress. Sometimes Unikko
was the first step to a lifelong relationship.
In the 2000s, Unikko experienced a second
coming and attention was drawn to the role of
family and togetherness in the Unikko stories.
At family reunions and get-togethers, Unikko
dresses would be worn like a football team’s jer-
sey.
GO O D BYE TO H O MES I CKN ESS
Like rye bread or salmiakki, traditional Finn-
ish salty liquorice, Unikko has always helped
Finns overcome moments of homesickness.
Whether studying abroad or working on assign-
ment in a foreign country, Finns have packed
2726
their suitcases full of Unikko. It was a part of
Finland – something that made the unfamiliar
feel like home.
FRO M O N E G EN ER AT I O N
TO TH E N E X T
If the 1960s generation look upon Unikko
with nostalgia, young people today see the
iconic pattern as an exotic window to an era that
appeals to them for its honesty and authentici-
ty. The retro-generations of the new millennium
appreciate the colourful fabrics passed down
from mothers and grandmothers. Frayed edges,
faded colours and small stains serve to highlight
the many emotions behind these heirloom fab-
rics. Perhaps they can even bring young people
closer to an admired lifestyle or their family’s
own story. For them, Unikko can be a visible re-
minder of their roots and a lasting statement of
who they are.
So whether we see Unikko as an heirloom
fabric or an exotic novelty, this beloved pattern
will continue to blossom in homes around the
world and inspire lifelong memories.
2 928
JOURNEYS WITH
UNIKKOI N THE L AST 50 YE ARS , U N IKKO HAS
TR AVELLED TO THE FAR R E ACHES O F THE WO R LD.
SO ME T IMES AS AN E XPECTED G U EST.
SO ME T IMES AS A W ELC O ME S U R PR IS E . O F TEN IT
HAS S H OW N U P FO R A FLEE T IN G M O MENT O R
THEN D EC ID ED TO STAY FO R A L I FE T IME .
YE T O N E TH IN G I S CER TA IN : W HER E VER IT GO ES ,
U N IKKO W ILL ALWAYS B E N OT I CED.
FLO W ER S I N M OT I O N
Miles or kilometres? Thousands of commuters in
Taiwan, Manhattan and Hong Kong have travelled in
busses and metros decorated with Unikko. Elsewhere,
too, Unikko has welcomed city travellers.
31
C O N V ER S E M A R I M EKKO
Fun sneakers that combine Converse’s iconic
footwear with Marimekko’s colourful patterns.
No wonder Unikko stepped into these shoes
almost right away.
BLOSSOM IN THE SK Y
In 2011, a hot-air balloon with the Unikko pattern
flew over Helsinki as part of Marimekko’s 60th
anniversary celebrations. The Unikko balloon has
also visited the United States.
3 33 2
FLY W IT H U N I KKO
In 2012, Marimekko and Finnair took to the skies
together. To symbolize the partnership, 36 Unikko
flowers were painted on a passenger jet flying
between Helsinki and Finnair ’s destinations in Asia.
3 53 4
EX
HIB
ITIO
N D
ES
IGN
: IMA
AR
CH
ITE
CT
S. P
HO
TO
S: N
AC
ÁS
A &
PA
RT
NE
RS
INC
.
IN A JAPANESE SHRINE
In spring 2013, Unikko and a host of other Marimekko
fabrics were on display at Dazaifu Tenmangu Shrine
in Japan in an exhibition entitled The Warp and Weft
of Finnish Textiles.
3 93 8
PH
OT
OS
: AM
AN
DA
HE
ST
EH
AV
E
D R ES S ED I N U N I KKO
In August 2013, Teemu Muurimäki’s stunning
Unikko dresses were the grand finale at Marimekko’s
spring fashion show during Copenhagen Fashion Week,
the largest fashion event in the Nordic countries.
414 0
PEOPLE AND STORIES
I N TH E S P IR IT O F MA IJA I S O L A’ S E X AM PLE , 2014
I S A YE AR O F B O LD PER S O NAL IT I ES . PEO PLE W H O
ALLOW IN S P IR AT I O N AN D C R E AT IV IT Y TO TAKE TH EM
TO U N E XPECTED PL AC ES . W H O GO AG A IN ST TH E G R A IN ,
FO LLOW TH E IR IN ST IN CT S – AN D MAKE S O M E TH IN G
WO N D ER FU L HAPPEN FO R ALL O F U S .
PER HAP S YO U ’ R E O N E O F TH EM?
S HAR E YO U R STO RY: MAR IM EKKO.C O M/U N IKKO
O N THE FO LLOWIN G PAG ES YO U ’ LL F IN D F IVE STO R IES
O F W HY C O U R AG E MAT TERS .
Kirsti Paakkanen became the owner and
CEO of Marimekko in 1991. Prior to that, she
had had a distinguished career as the founder
and managing director of a successful ad-
vertising agency. Honorary doctorates were
conferred on her by the University of Art and
Design Helsinki in 2001 and by the Helsinki
School of Economics in 2006. Kirsti Paak-
kanen managed Marimekko until 31 January
2008.
Having sold my advertising agency, I ac-
quired a residence in France and decided to
settle there. I had hardly had occasion to ful-
f il an enduring dream of mine – of driving in a
convertible, chiffons and hair blowing in the
wind, through marvellous landscapes and simply
enjoying being alive – when a single telephone
call altered the course of my life: ’Marimekko is
yours’. The call followed negotiations I thought
had already broken down.
On the last page of my book of aphorisms my
mother wrote some advice I have always tried to
heed: ’Each day one should work a wonder!’ It
was of particular importance during the moment
on 28 September 1991, in the depths of the re-
cession, when I put my signature as buyer to the
Marimekko contract.
My work and life at Marimekko brought me
immense joy. I felt that I was of worth and that
I had something to give. Day-to-day happiness
is happiness supreme. Being able each day to
work a wonder.
Marimekko thrived because we believed in
the future and the power of working together.
We also had something truly special and unique
– a strong foundation and heritage on which to
build. And we had the world’s most beautiful
flower, Unikko.
KIRSTIPA AKK ANEN
4 342
J IN XING
With an accomplished and internation-
ally awarded dance career and having also
proven her versatile talents in theatre, film
and tele vision, Jin Xing has become a cultural
and social icon in her home country. Through
her talk show and her fan base in the blogo-
sphere with nearly a million followers, she has
a strong impact and she is one of the most
influential opinion leaders in China today.
In everything I have done, in my dance ca-
reer and in my personal life, I have trusted my
own way.
I like walking a path that nobody else has
walked before. It’s not always accessible, but
I can learn from failures. Slowly the path be-
comes a road, and there’s a free world in front
of me.
I have openness and curiosity in my heart
– a curiosity about the world. Like a flower: in
the springtime flowers come up and they don’t
know what is going to happen over the year. You
never know what will happen the next night.
Just let things come and let things go.
The turning point of my life, as a female art-
ist and as a woman, came with my family. Before
I became a mother, I had a different attitude to
the world. True reality brings you back to earth.
Once you have your feet on the ground, you
know what real life is. Real life and your imagi-
nation, your creativity, become one – you can’t
separate them.
Before I became a mother, I just wanted to
fly as a free bird. Now, when I am a mother, I
know why I fly. Freedom has substance now.
Marissa Mayer joined Yahoo as President &
CEO in July 2012. Prior to Yahoo, she worked
for 13 years at Google, where she held nu-
merous positions, including engineer, de-
signer, product manager, and executive, and
launched more than 100 well-known features
and products. Previously, Marissa worked at
the UBS research lab in Zurich, Switzerland
and at SRI International in Menlo Park, Cali-
fornia. She graduated with honours from Stan-
ford University with a BS in Symbolic Systems
and a MS in Computer Science.
Growing up, I was very, very certain that I
was going to be a doctor. When I was in college
I was doing biology and chemistry; I was good at
it but I wasn’t that excited about it.
Then I took my first computer science
course, and suddenly there was something that
really unlocked my creativity, my passion, and
meant a fundamental shift in my overall life
view. I realized that I wanted to be a part of it,
and so I changed my major.
It was in 1994 that I made that decision. But
a really amazing thing was yet to happen: the
Web. That wouldn’t happen for another whole
year, so no one had even really dreamt of the
enormous potential that symbolic systems and
computer science could have. Nor did I really
have any idea of what kind of profession I would
have, and what kind of contribution or impact I
would be able to make.
When Google was about a year old, I took
a trip to Switzerland and I saw the website on
someone’s screen. At that time no one in Swit-
zerland was supposed to know about Google.
When I saw that this little website I was work-
ing on with 20 of my friends was already being
used halfway around the world by people whom
we didn’t know, and who were really enjoying it
and learning from it, I realized the impact of the
internet and the impact that being involved with
computer science and technology could have,
and it made my decision so worthwhile.
MARISSA MAYER
4 54 4
NAOKOOGIGAMI
Naoko Ogigami is an internationally award-
ed Japanese film director. Educated both in
Japan and in the United States, she received
attention for her 2003 directorial debut Bar-
ber Yoshino (Yoshino’s Barber Shop), which
won a special mention at the Berlin Interna-
tional Film Festival. Her third film, Kamome
Shokudo (Kamome Diner), shot in Helsinki,
Finland, has enjoyed great success both do-
mestically and internationally.
Having got tired of the conservative Japan-
ese film industry, I asked my producer if I could
make a film abroad. Film-making is quite hard
work, so if I had to struggle, I wanted at least
to work freely and do something that nobody
had ever done before. I travelled to Finland
and made my film Kamome Shokudo (Kamome
Diner) there. On the premiere day, I instantly
forgot my struggles and was filled with a sense
of accomplishment when I saw the long lines of
people waiting to see the film.
SVANTE ÖQUIST
Svante Öquist is the editor-in-chief of the
Swedish edition of Elle Decoration magazine.
Prior to his current position, he worked for
several years as art director for Elle fashion
magazine as well as for Elle Decoration.
The year is 1995. I’m the art director for
both ELLE and ELLE Decoration, the latter hav-
ing started in Sweden three years earlier. Eva
Abrahamsson, a sort of iron lady, was then the
CEO of Hachette Sweden as well as the editor-
in-chief for the two ELLE magazines. At some
point she decided that enough was enough.
At the end of August 1995, Eva said to me:
‘Svante, we need to talk. You’ll be the new edi-
tor-in-chief for ELLE Decoration.’
My answer was very quick and very deter-
mined: ‘No, I will NOT – because I CAN not!’
Eva: ‘Yes, you CAN!’
I: ‘No, I CAN not. I prefer to be “just” an art
director, that’s my profession!’
Eva: ‘OK, sleep on it! But remember, the de-
cision is already made and it’s non-negotiable.’
A couple of months later Eva left the com-
pany and I became the new editor-in-chief for
ELLE Decoration.
Since that moment I’ve never, ever had the
slightest feeling of regret. I still love every sin-
gle day, and next year I will have been doing it
for 20 years!
S O M E S IX T Y Y E AR S AG O, TH E B O LD
C O LO U R S AN D U N C O N VEN T I O N AL PAT TER N S
O F TH E N E W LY ESTA B L I S H ED FAS H I O N
AN D D ES I G N H O U S E MAR IM EKKO
TR AN S F O R M ED TH E TE X T I LE IN D U STRY
IN F IN L AN D. TO DAY, O U R IN VEN T IVE ,
Y E T T IM ELES S D IALO G U E B E T W EEN C O LO U R ,
PAT TER N AN D S HAP E TR AN S L ATES IN TO
D I ST IN CT IVE D ES I G N S THAT C ELEB R ATE TH E
AR T O F P R IN T MAK IN G ALL OVER TH E W O R LD.
Marimekko Corporation
P.O. Box 107, FI-00811 Helsinki
Puusepänkatu 4, FI-00880 Helsinki
Finland
Tel. +358 9 758 71
Fax +358 9 755 3051
E-mail: [email protected]
www.marimekko.com