For an intimate glimpse into Kuala Lumpur’s colourful side, skip the taxis and tour buses – a bicycle and a good road map

are all you need to get up close and personal with the inner workings of the vibrant Malaysian capital.

KUALA LUMPUR

Words by Adele Chong

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Petronas Twin Towers

The Petronas Towers, designed by Argentine-American architect Cesar Pelli, reign supreme over Kuala Lumpur’s dusk-drenched skyline.

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A woman peruses a flower market on Jalan Tun Sambantham in Little India.

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A jumbled profusion of city and jungle, Kuala Lumpur can become a bit much even for those born and bred here.

By day, you are affronted by the unrelenting din of the Malaysian capital in motion, while the diminishing evening light brings with it the climactic roar of cars speeding into the city’s titillating reaches as well as the sweet, slightly vinegary air of a pasar malam (night market) in full swing. Ask anyone and you soon learn that there are only two ways of coping with this assault on the senses: retreat into the suburbs or dive headlong into the madness.

Fingers skimming over hot chrome, a dozen of us are gingerly manoeuvring our way alongside moving cars. Slowly, we assert our presence on the road, like aggressive bees journeying into enemy territory. I tighten my inexperienced hold on the handlebars of my borrowed foldable bike, grateful for its sturdy glide as we verge on tougher, tra�c-heavy terrain. Kuala Lumpur drivers are known as some of the most belligerent in the region, but to our relief, the few we encounter this morning sweep past us tolerantly, perhaps placated by thoughts of breakfast.

The cycling swarm inevitably advances onto a busy four-lane road leading towards KL Sentral station, where an enormous, heaving clunker of a bus leaps dangerously into view, sounding its offending horn: a mechanical Goliath charging towards a scattered formation of two-wheeled

Davids. In wild disbelief, I utter something quite unladylike. Unfazed, my bike-mates forge on, cutting neat, defiant paths through the thick exhaust. Our large rattling nemesis eventually hurtles onto an incoming exit point, disappearing as quickly as it arrived.

We are here because, as you might have guessed, we have allied ourselves with the city’s rising insurgence of bike converts. Urban biking is akin to a new extreme sport in Kuala Lumpur given the conditions. Dubbed South East Asia’s answer to Los Angeles by some, this is a land where bike lanes are non-existent, highways are rampant and the SUV is king. In silent revolt, a few of the city’s more audacious denizens stir at an ungodly hour every other Sunday.

Donning spandex, they brandish their weapons of choice – mountain bicycles, fixies, foldies and the like – and seek safety in numbers. Situated in the neighbourhood of Bangsar, a studio belonging to Ng Sek San – a local landscape architect and uno�cial instigator of this ongoing weekend bike-off – has long served as the default meet-up point for road warriors of all skill levels.

“It started as a way to look for good food,” laughs Ng, citing the group’s initial motivations. Since catching the cycling bug some years back during a visit to the Shanghai Expo, he has become one of KL’s most fervent advocates of the activity.

“Once you get used to getting around on the bicycle, it becomes not just a sport but a way of life – it’s a cheaper and healthier alternative to cars.”

5 Senses – Taste Jalan Alor

You haven’t tasted the best of Kuala Lumpur – a self-declared foodie-hub – until you’ve sampled its impressive street fare. And what better place to start than Jalan Alor? Brimming with all manner of local culinary delights, this lively hawker heaven situated in bustling Bukit Bintang has an array of dishes to tempt the palate, whether you are in the mood for char kueh tiaw noodles or grilled stingray.

Sebagai pusat kuliner yang menggoda rasa, Anda belum merasakan yang terbaik di Kuala Lumpur bila belum mencicipi jajanan pinggir jalan. Dan tak ada tempat yang lebih baik untuk memulai petualangan kuliner ini selain dari Jalan Alor. Mencicipi segala macam makanan lokal, surga jajanan pinggir jalan ini terdapat di Bukit Bintang yang memiliki segala macam hidangan yang menggugah selera, mulai dari mie char kueh tiaw atau panggang ikan pari.

Kuala Lumpur Night Market

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While attendance numbers tend to fluctuate, 20-odd participants – a small child and this unwieldy writer included – arrived on the morning that I signed on, in good spirits. Trailing hamstring stretches and rousing whoops, our motley group assembled and ambled forth in haste. The idea is to take full advantage of the cooler part of the morning and finish sometime around noon when the heat peaks.

Here in the balmy tropics, you’d better believe that time and the scorching midday sun wait for no one. A five- or six-hour stint around the inner city, the ride would see us through venerable areas such as Kampong Baru, Klang River and the Central Business District before doubling back to Bangsar for lunch and fresh coconuts at a dependable kopitiam.

Careering down the colourful back alleys of Brickfields, where much of the city’s Indian expatriate community resides, the coconuts momentarily seem a world away. Nearing the century-old Sri Kandaswamy Kovil Hindu temple on Jalan Scott, we make a detour to the makeshift flower stalls hawking rose water and chrysanthemum garlands. Karen, a fellow cyclist, buys two jasmine-flower necklaces and circles one around my neck. Striking up a winsome contrast with the synthetic make of my tough-looking bike accessories, I can’t think of a better metaphor for cycling in KL than this wild, fragile presence pressed against the alien apparatus of a hard, man-made world.

The overpowering fragrance of jasmine takes me all the way to the riverbanks of the Klang River, where sadly the liquid contents run milky brown with sludge. But we aren’t here to critique the water quality. The appeal of taking this ‘scenic route’ to Masjid Jamek, where the city’s two main arteries – Klang and Gombak – converge, is daubed all over the surrounding walls; replete with vibrant street art, a lengthy portion of Klang River’s undulating stretch likely qualifies it as the largest open-air art museum in Malaysia, if not the region.

Fairies, cool skater dudes and idealised national icons are liberally strewn on every available surface in bright technicolour, rendering the experience an ongoing photo-op-cum-bona-fide mud-fest as we trek through the slippery sludge, emerging dirty and triumphant before a pedestrian crossing. There is enough time to nip over to Kampong Baru to relish the placid neighbourhood vibe and slurp up the soupy splendour of stall-cooked lontong before zigzagging back to the vicinity of KLCC, where the

I can’t think of a better metaphor for cycling in KL than this wild, fragile presence pressed against the alien apparatus of a hard, man-made world.

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5 Senses – Scent Durian

Its overpowering scent has been compared with everything from smelly gym socks to rotten onions, but whatever you may have heard about the aromatic King of Fruits, don’t knock it until you’ve tried it. Although this thorny and pungent specimen is native to South East Asia, it has become widely identified as a classic Malaysian icon, yielding creamy yellow flesh that can be best described as an intriguing blend of custard and Camembert. Follow your nose and make haste to the nearest fruit vendor.

Aroma durian yang kuat tak bisa menandingi bau bawang, tetapi apapun yang Anda dengar tentang aroma si raja buah ini, jangan percaya sampai Anda mencobanya sendiri. Walaupun buah berduri ini berasal dari Asia Tenggara, buah ini sudah dikenal sebagai ikon Malaysia, dengan daging buah yang lembut berwarna kuning seperti campuran custard dan Camembert. Cobalah rasanya di toko buah terdekat.

A fisherman's pier in Laguna Park, Port Klang, poised against a stunning backdrop of blue and gold light.

KLite cyclists enjoy a laugh while biking along the Klang River.

A pair of Malay schoolgirls stop for a photo moment in Kampong Baru.

Biking (or rather ‘bonking’, as they say in cyclist-speak) to the top with the intense heat beating down, the hard-won prize is a glorious one: a swooping glide through the picturesque Lake Gardens before returning whence we came.

88-storey Petronas Twin Towers greet us in all their iconic glory. We sweep past the Cartier-bedecked preserve of the well-heeled and briefly attract the attention of Chinese tourists whose cameras immortalise us traversing neglected strips of road – prime real estate for the resourceful urban cyclist. Approaching the final stretch, defeat is the last thing on my mind, but my aching calves and wicked thirst say otherwise on the way up hilly Jalan Parliament. Biking (or rather ‘bonking’, as they say in cyclist-speak) to the top with the intense heat beating down, the hard-won prize is a glorious one: a swooping glide through the picturesque Lake Gardens before returning whence we came.

Fed, hydrated and stripped of my pedal-driven armour, the world feels vastly slower and lighter as I trudge through Ng’s leafy neighbourhood an hour later, wobbly-legged. The sun-drenched treetops, birds and patterned shadows of healthy foliage seem to take on a keen new exuberance on my descent to reality. The gifted necklace hangs wilted and browned against my skin, fallen petals lining my shirt. Still tingling from my dazzling flight through the city, I relish its indelible remnants, and the sweet realisation that a sublime Sunday afternoon lay unredeemed before me.

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Untuk melihat Kuala Lumpur lebih dekat dari berbagai sudut, lupakan taksi dan bus. Cukup berbekal sebuah sepeda dan peta, Anda bisa mengenal lebih jelas sisi kehidupan Ibu Kota Malaysia yang tak pernah tidur ini.

Dengan banyaknya gedung-gedung dan pepohonan, Kuala Lumpur bisa menjadi cukup bising bahkan bagi mereka yang lahir dan dibesarkan di tempat ini. Di siang hari, orang dihadapkan pada hiruk pikuk kehidupan ibu kota, sementara di malam hari ketika cahaya lampu mulai padam serta mobil-mobil mulai menambah kecepatannya, pasar malam ganti beroperasi. Hanya ada dua solusi dari keadaan ini; pindah ke pinggir kota atau beradaptasi dengan menikmati segala keramaian yang ada.

Sambil memegang stang sepeda yang sudah terasa panas, kami para pesepeda ini terus mengayuh di samping mobil yang sedang melaju. Perlahan tapi pasti, kami pun mulai menunjukkan keberadaan kami di jalanan persis seperti lebah-lebah agresif yang sedang memasuki daerah musuh. Saya mengencangkan pegangan ke stang sepeda lipat yang saya sewa, sambil diam-diam berterima kasih kepada bodi sepeda yang tangguh ini saat

kami menempuh jalanan Kuala Lumpur yang padat. Pengendara kendaraan bermotor di Kuala Lumpur memang terkenal gampang naik darah, tetapi untunglah mereka yang kami temui pagi ini cukup sabar, mungkin karena baru saja selesai sarapan.

Rombongan pesepeda pun memasuki jalan empat lajur yang sibuk menuju KL Sentral Station di mana sebuah bus besar tiba-tiba mengambil jalur kami sambil membunyikan klaksonnya: Mesin raksasa itu pun membuat kocar kacir rombongan pesepeda. Tak percaya dengan apa yang baru saja terjadi, saya pun sempat naik pitam. Namun bak tak terganggu, teman-teman saya terus saja mengayuh, melewati jalanan yang penuh asap. Sementara bus besar itu langsung menuju jalur keluar, lalu menghilang dari pandangan.

Kami berani bersepeda, seperti yang Anda duga, karena bersama-sama dengan kelompok pesepeda yang semakin banyak jumlahnya. Bersepeda di perkotaan sama menantangnya seperti melakukan olahraga ekstrem. Keadaan di Asia Tenggara berlawanan dengan Los Angeles, di Kuala Lumpur tak ada lajur khusus pesepeda, jalan tol ada di mana-mana dan SUV merajai jalan. Sebagai bentuk pemberontakan, orang-orang pun mulai bergerak di jam-jam sepi menjelang subuh setiap hari Minggu. Dengan mengenakan pakaian berbahan spandeks, mereka mengayuh sepeda – jenis sepeda gunung, lipat, fixies, dan sebagainya – bergerombol demi keselamatan. Di sebuah tempat di daerah Bangsar, sebuah studio milik Ng Sek San – seorang arsitek lokal dan penggagas kegiatan bersepeda akhir pekan-telah lama menjadi titik pertemuan para pejuang jalanan mulai dari pemula hingga yang sudah berpengalaman.

“Mulanya kegiatan ini dimaksudkan untuk berburu makanan enak,” ujar Ng sambil tertawa, mengenang motivasi awalnya. Sejak membeli sepeda beberapa

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Dating back to 1873, the ornate Sri Mahamariamman Temple is one of the city’s oldest and most revered Hindu temples.

Sporting customary henna, a woman’s hands clutch a milk jug at Batu Caves.

A trio of cyclists quench their thirst at a local hawker stall.

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As the day draws to a close, Malaysia's capital gets ready to embrace the fun-filled night ahead.

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melati dan melingkarkan satu untaiannya di leher saya. Tampilan untaian bunga yang lembut itu tampak kontras dengan sepeda saya yang besar dan kokoh, dan saya rasa seperti itulah halnya bersepeda di Kuala Lumpur, makhluk yang rapuh berhadapan dengan dunia buatan manusia yang keras.

Aroma wangi melati yang kuat menemani saya hingga ke tepian Klang River di mana sayangnya airnya tampak kecokelatan. Tetapi kami tak berada di sini untuk mengkritik kualitas air. Kami memang mengambil rute yang penuh pemandangan menuju Masjid Jamek, tempat di mana dua jalan utama dari dua kota – Klang dan Gombak – bertemu, lukisan mural tampak terlihat di sepanjang permukaan tembok; melengkapi seni jalanan, permukaan tembok sepanjang Klang River yang luas membuat tembok ini seperti museum seni terbuka yang terbesar di Malaysia atau bahkan di tingkat regional. Gambar dongeng, orang-orang yang sedang bermain papan luncur dan ikon-ikon nasional yang idealis tergambar di permukaan tembok kosong dengan warna-warna yang terang, seperti festival foto saat kami bersepeda melewati pinggiran sungai sebelum mencapai penyeberangan jalan.

tahun lalu sewaktu mengunjungi Shanghai Expo, pria ini menjadi penggagas kegiatan bersepeda. “Sekali Anda mencoba berkeliling dengan sepeda, maka Anda tak lagi menganggapnya olahraga, namun sebuah gaya hidup – bersepeda bisa menjadi alternatif pengganti mobil yang lebih murah dan menyehatkan.”

Jumlah anggota rombongan pesepeda ini tak selalu tetap, totalnya sekitar dua puluhan orang, termasuk seorang anak kecil dan penulis sendiri. Rombongan berkumpul di pagi hari dengan penuh semangat diiringi suara rantai sepeda dan teriakan-teriakan senang, sebelum akhirnya bergegas berangkat. Kami tak ingin kehilangan hawa pagi hari yang segar dan berharap bisa menyelesaikan perjalanan saat panas matahari mulai menyengat. Di daerah tropis seperti ini, perlu Anda ketahui bahwa matahari cepat sekali muncul. Setelah sekitar lima atau enam jam menjelajahi kota, kami pun sampai ke daerah yang memiliki nilai sejarah seperti Kampung Baru, Klang River dan Central Business District sebelum kembali lagi ke Bangsar untuk makan siang dan minum air kelapa segar di sebuah kopitiam.

Berbelok ke jalanan kecil yang penuh warna di belakang Brickfields di mana komunitas warga keturunan India tinggal, yang selalu tampak akrab dalam komunitasnya. Mendekati Kuil Hindu Sri Kandaswamy Kovil yang berada di Jalan Scott, kami memutar melewati penjual bunga yang menjajakan air mawar dan untaian kalung bunga. Karen, salah satu pesepeda, membeli dua buah kalung untaian

While it may seem a cliché to call KLCC Park one of Kuala Lumpur’s most beloved attractions, that’s exactly what it is. An expansive green retreat that breaks up the monotony of its grey urban surroundings, located a heartbeat away from the Petronas Twin Towers, this lushly designed park revolves around a man-made lake and incorporates facilities such as a mosque and a children’s water park.

Mungkin klise rasanya menyatakan KLCC Park sebagai salah satu wahana wisata yang paling menarik, tetapi begitulah kenyataannya. Taman ini seperti sebuah oasis di tengah-tengah gedung-gedung beton di sekitarnya. Dilengkapi pula dengan danau buatan dan berbagai fasilitasnya seperti taman air untuk anak-anak serta sebuah masjid untuk beribadah. Lokasinya pun tak jauh dari Menara Kembar Petronas.

5 Senses – Sight KLCC Park

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Ayung River Ubud - Bali

A PARAD ISEo f YOUR OWN

A Company of

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A Hindu devotee holds up an offering at a shrine in Batu Caves.

Carved wooden masks, such as this gold-painted Buddha head, can be found at Central Market, a handicraft haven situated near the city’s Chinatown.

110 Travel | Kuala Lumpur

The Royal Collection is a unique brand of villa living, featuring

three world-class properties: The Kayana, The Samaya Seminyak

and The Samaya Ubud. Set within beautiful tropical gardens on

Seminyak Beach and the Ayung River, each property combines

a unique ambience with a touch of luxury in products and

services.

With a private plunge pool, spa and full butler service, these

private boutique villas offer a secluded sanctuary for our most

discerning guests.

The Kayana Seminyak, BaliPh: (62-361) 8476628E-mail: info@thekayana.com www.thekayana.com

The Samaya Seminyak, BaliPh: (62-361) 731149E-mail: info@thesamayabali.com

The Samaya Ubud, BaliPh: (62-361) 973606www.thesamayabali.com

RESERVATION CENTER Ph: (62-21) 2700027, Fax: (62-21) 2700350E-mail: reservation@santika.com I www.santika.com

Ayung River Ubud - Bali

A PARAD ISEo f YOUR OWN

A Company of

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BATU CAVES

Accessible via Kuala Lumpur’s city centre, Batu Caves is home to one of the most visited Hindu shrines outside of India. On the occasion of Thaipusam, an annual festival, Tamil devotees embark on an eight-hour procession which takes them from the Sri Mahamariamman Temple all the way to the caves. A steep climb at 272 steps, the 400 million-year-old religious site is also exceedingly popular with naturalists and rock-climbing enthusiasts.

Bisa dicapai melalui pusat Kota Kuala Lumpur, di Gua Batu terdapat salah satu makam Hindu yang paling banyak dikunjungi selain India. Ketika festival tahunan Thaipusam tiba, para peziarah Tamil melakukan upacara selama delapan jam mulai dari Kuil Sri Mahamariamman hingga ke gua ini. Terdapat 272 anak tangga yang harus didaki untuk mencapai kuil ini. Situs religi yang telah berusia 400 juta tahun ini juga populer di kalangan penyuka suasana alam dan pendaki tebing.

Kami masih memiliki waktu untuk mampir ke Kampong Baru untuk menikmati suasana pedesaan dan mencicipi lontong kuah sebelum kembali berzig-zag ke KLCC yang sibuk di mana menara kembar berlantai 88 menyambut kami dengan kemegahannya. Kami melewati kawasan elit dan sejenak menarik perhatian para wisatawan China yang dengan kameranya membuat kami bersemangat menyeberang jalanan yang tak lagi dilewati oleh kendaraan. Mendekati tujuan akhir, saat menyusuri Jalan Parliament yang menanjak, tak terpikirkan untuk mempercepat kayuhan, tetapi betis saya yang pegal dan rasa haus yang menghinggapi tenggorokan saya berkata lain. Bersepeda menanjak dengan hawa panas yang mulai terasa, kami bersemangat memacu sepeda menuju jalanan yang kemudian menurun melewati Lake Gardens yang penuh dengan pemandangan indah sebelum kembali ke tempat kami berangkat tadi.

Dehidrasi dan kecapaian di atas sepeda, waktu tiba-tiba terasa lambat seiring saya melewati daerah Ng yang rindang sejam kemudian. Pucuk pepohonan yang tertimpa cahaya matahari, burung-burung dan bayangan tanaman tampak ceria seiring saya turun dari sepeda. Untaian melati yang masih tergantung di leher mulai tampak layu dan cokelat, kelopaknya berjatuhan di baju saya. Masih terasa limbung karena baru saja berkeliling kota di atas sepeda, saya melepaskan kalung tersebut, melihatnya membuat pengalaman manis hari Minggu itu terbayang kembali di depan mata.

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SEKEPING SIN CHEW KEE

RAMADAN IN KUALA LUMPUR

• Kuala Lumpur

MEDAN TO PEDANG

261 km

35 mins

14 fl ights a week

Distance

Flight Time

Frequency

If you and some travel buddies are looking for an unconventional sleepover, Sekeping Sin Chew Kee might be worthy of an overnight stay. Housed in a converted 1920s shophouse, this intimately sized boutique hotel is the latest off ering under Malaysian landscape architect Ng Sek San’s growing chain of minimalist retreats geared specifi cally towards shared accommodation. Bent on conserving the building’s heritage, Ng played up its original framework with the artful addition of recycled timber louvre windows and handpicked artworks – characteristic elements that perfectly complement his trademark bare-bones aesthetic. Located in the suburb of Pudu, it’s a little off the beaten track, but the inspired, albeit humble, set-up will defi nitely make the trek worthwhile. www.sekeping.com

Jika Anda dan teman-teman mencari tempat bermalam yang unik di Kuala Lumpur, Sekeping Sin Chew Kee sepertinya bisa menjadi pilihan. Bertempat di sebuah rumah toko dari tahun 1920- an yang sudah dipugar, butik hotel mungil ini adalah tambahan terbaru di daftar jaringan hotel minimalis karya arsitek lanskap Malaysia Ng Sek San. Dengan mempertahankan bangunan aslinya, Ng memberikan sentuhan permainan seni berupa jendela jalusi dari kayu daur ulang dan kerajinan seni khusus, yang sudah menjadi ciri khasnya. Berlokasi di pinggir Pudu, agak jauh dari pusat keramaian, desainnya membuat hotel ini cukup berharga untuk disinggahi.

Synonymous with abstinence and prolonged spiritual refl ection, the month of Ramadan for many Malaysians – Muslim or not – also entails a heightened emphasis on something quite contrary to the spell of obligatory fasting that accompanies this sacred period: food.

A visit to cuisine-conscious Kuala Lumpur during this pivotal time wouldn’t be complete without an unhurried meander through the annual food bazaars scattered throughout and beyond the Klang Valley’s expansive reaches. Certain to kick one’s taste buds into high gear come iftar (the daily breaking of fast), these Ramadan bazaars – simply termed param by the locals – feature a lively agglomeration of food stalls that serve as a mouth-watering reminder that life’s sweetest moments are often the simplest ones.

While local culinary favorites such as roti jala and sotong bakar can easily be nosed out at any given bazaar in central KL, foodies with a more discerning palate might do well to scope out off -the-beaten-track options like Taman Melawati or Bandar Baru Bangi for exceptional tasting ayam golek or roti boom (to break fast with a bang).

Identik dengan bulan pembersihan diri, di bulan Ramadan ini, kebanyakan orang Malaysia – beragama Islam atau bukan – meramaikannya dengan hal yang kontradiksi dengan kewajiban berpuasa di bulan ini, yaitu makanan.

Datang ke Kuala Lumpur yang terkenal akan kelezatan kulinernya saat bulan Ramadan ini tak akan lengkap bila belum berkunjung ke pusat jajanan yang banyak terdapat di daerah Klang Valley dan sekitarnya.

Hal yang paling ditunggu-tunggu untuk memuaskan selera adalah saat menjelang berbuka puasa di mana pusat jajanan yang ada di bulan Ramadan ini – yang oleh para penduduk lokal disebut param – membuka banyak stan yang menjual berbagai menu buka puasa yang menggugah selera, betapa bahagia itu ternyata sederhana.

Makanan lokal yang banyak dijajakan di pusat-pusat jajanan di tengah kota Kuala Lumpur adalah roti jala dan sotong bakar. Namun buat mereka yang menyukai makanan yang lebih khusus bisa pergi ke tempat yang agak ke pinggir kota seperti Taman Melawati atau Bandar Baru Bangi untuk mencicipi kelezatan ayam golek atau roti boom untuk menu berbuka yang mantap.

LIFESTYLE

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