FORMULATION AND EVALUATION OF MOISTURIZER …

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Sunayana et al. World Journal of Pharmacy and Pharmaceutical Sciences

FORMULATION AND EVALUATION OF MOISTURIZER

CONTAINING ISABGOL MUCILAGE FOR THE

MANAGEMENT OF DRY SKIN

Ghodgaonkar Sunayana1, Sadgir Priyanka

1, Pai Anant

2, Momin Farina

2, Pagare

Akshata2

Shri Pandit Baburao Chaughule College of Pharmacy, Anjurphata, Bhiwandi,

Maharashtra 421302, India.

ABSTRACT

Isabgol (Psyllium Husk) is known to exhibit a plethora of

pharmacological activities. It has been used as a dietary fiber

supplement, bulk-forming laxative, and in treatment of colon cancer.

Isabgol is widely used as a cure, in treating different kinds of diseases,

conditions like chronic constipation, diarrhea, inflammation of mucous

membrane of GI and genitourinary tracts, duodenal ulcer, gonorrhea,

piles, etc.,as bulk forming, non-irritant laxative drug, demulcent, as a

cervical dilator etc. It is known to have an excellent emollient property.

The advantage of isabgol is it is natural, less costly, freely available

and nontoxic. This work deals with the emollient property of isabgol. It

is a known fact that Isabgol has good moisturizing effect due to its gel

forming activity. Hence we have tried to formulate vitamin E enriched

moisturizer for the management of dry skin.

KEYWORDS:- Isabgol husk, gel, mucilage.

Isabgol husk is obtained from the seeds of Plantago ovate Plantagoafra, Plantagoindica

belonging to family Plantaginaceae. Psyllium husk contains a high proportion of

hemicellulose, composed of a xylan backbone linked with arabinose, rhamnose, and

galacturonic acid units (arabinoxylans). Phytochemical research of Plantago ovate

explainsthat psyllium a mucilage fibre has great ability to produce gel. It acts as the

endosperm of P.ovata see where it prevents seed from drying.

WORLD JOURNAL OF PHARMACY AND PHARMACEUTICAL SCIENCES

SJIF Impact Factor 7.632

Volume 10, Issue 3, 1550-1562 Research Article ISSN 2278 – 4357

*Corresponding Author

Dr. Ghodgaonkar

Sunayana

Shri Pandit Baburao

Chaughule College of

Pharmacy, Anjurphata,

Bhiwandi, Maharashtra

421302, India.

Article Received on

09 Jan. 2021,

Revised on 29 Jan. 2021,

Accepted on 19 Feb. 2021

DOI: 10.20959/wjpps20213-18541


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The material found in mucilage is revealed and it is found it contains neutral arabinoxylan

(arabinose 22.6%, xylose 74%, molar basis; only traces of other sugars) with about 35% of

non-reducing terminal residues, the polysaccharide ishighly branched. The data are

compatible with a structure consisting of a densely substituted main chain of 3 trisaccharide

branches having the sequence L-Araf-a-(1-3)-D-Xylp-B (1-3)-L-Araf. The presence of this

sequence is supported by methylation and NMR data, and by the isolation of the disaccharide

3-O-β-D- Xylopyranosyl-L-arabinose as a product of partial acid hydrolysis of

polysaccharide. Following chemical constituents are responsible for the gel forming

properties of Isabgol mucilage

Fig. 1: Chemical substances of isabghula husk.[18]

Taking this property of gel forming into consideration we thought of exploiting potential

moisturizing effect of isabgol.

Moisturizers are substances used to reduce signs and symptoms of dry scaly skin making the

rough surface soft and smooth. Moisturizers are designed to improve skin quality maintain

and/or restore the moisture content of the skin as well as keep it smooth and pliable and aid in

alleviating the symptoms of dry skin. Moisturizers also contain in ingredients that help

fighting age, acne. For eg: alpha hydroxyl acids (AHAs) are widely used in moisturizers.

Although AHAs cause photosensitivity (effect of UV light of the sun), this effect can be

reversed within a week.

However in case of herbal moisturizer no such adverse effects occur.Hence an attempt has

been made to formulate herbal moisturizer which is cheap and non-toxic.


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The various ingredients used in moisturizer are as follows

Emollients: Emollients are used to plasticize and soften the skin usually by filling in the void

spaces between the corneocytes and replacing lipids in the sub-cutaneous layer of the skin.

Examples include petrolatum, mineral oil, emulsifying wax etc.

Skin rejuvenators: These are enhancers of skin barrier. They include elastin keratin and

collagen.

The other additional ingredients include emulsifiers, thickening agents, water, preservatives

anti-oxidants, fragnances and colouring agents.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

Isabgol husk was of Plantago ovate was obtained from local authentic herbal distributor of

Dombivli.

Table 1: Ingredients used in moisturizer.

Sr. no Ingredients Uses

1. Glycerin Humectant

2. Emulsifying wax Base

3. Glyceryl monostearate Base

Table 2: List of ingredients used to formulate base for herbal moisturizer.

Sr. no Ingredients Uses

1. Triple Distilled Water, Isabgol Emollient

2. Triethanol amine Stabilizer

3. Extra Virgin Olive oil Nourishing agent

4. Vitamin E Nourishing agent

5. Methyl paraben Preservative

6. Propyl paraben Preservative

7. Rose water Cooling effect and Fragnance

8. Synthetic fragnances Fragnance

Preparation of isabgol extract

The aqueous extracts of Isapgol were prepared by using varying amounts of Isabgol husk.

The solutions were used in the range of 0.2-.0.5 gm in 20 ml.


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Fig. 2: FT-IR of Psyllium mucilage.[19]

Assignment Frequency

C-C stretching of alkanes 2926 cm-1

C-O-C stretch of ether 1050 cm-1

OH group 3472 cm-1

-CO stretching 1040cm-1

-CH3 2923 cm-1

Preparation of base

Phase inversion technique was used to prepare base. The internal phase was prepared using

ingredients [composition given in Table 2, emulsification was carried out in the mortar pastel.

Initially, grated and melted emulsifying wax, extra virgin olive oil, were added to a mixture

of previous two nights soaked isabgol husk glycerin.

Formulation optimization

In order to formulate moisturizing cream with sunflower wax, emulsifying wax was partially

and completely replaced by it and also the triethanolamine as an emulsifying agent was

replaced with borax to prepare a stabilized formulation. 32 full factorial design was applied to

the formulation that showed the satisfactory results to see the effect of varying the

concentration of variables emulsifying wax (X1) and sunflower wax (X2) on responses like

viscosity and spreadability. The levels of the two factors were selected on the basis of studies

carried out before implementing the experimental design. Table 3 summarizes the

experimentals, their factor combinations and the translation of the coded levels to the

experimental units used in the study. Composition of all prepared batches is mentioned in

table 4.


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Table 3: Experimental runs for the formulations of moisturizing cream used in the

study with coded values.

Independent

variables Name Unit Levels

Low (-1) Medium (0) High (+1)

X1 Emulsifying wax % 1 2 4

X2 Sunflower wax % 1 2 4

Table 4: Composition of all formulations of moisturizing cream.

Ingredients (%) Formulation codes

MF1 MF2 MF3 MF4 MF5 MF6 MF7 MF8 MF9

Emulsifying wax 1 1 1 2 2 2 4 4 4

Sunflower wax 1 2 4 1 2 4 1 2 4

Extra virgin olive oil 9.0 9.0 9.0 9.0 9.0 9.0 9.0 9.0 9.0

Glyceryl monostearate 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0

Glycerin 4.0 4.0 4.0 4.0 4.0 4.0 4.0 4.0 4.0

Borax 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2

Methyl paraben 0.03 0.03 0.03 0.03 0.03 0.03 0.03 0.03 0.03

Propyl paraben 0.07 0.07 0.07 0.07 0.07 0.07 0.07 0.07 0.07

Water to make 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100

Perfume q. s. q. s. q. s. q. s. q. s. q. s. q. s. q. s. q. s.

Evaluation of moisturizer

Cream products were characterized by pH, spreadability, viscosity, in vitro occlusivity and

particle size.

Physical appearance

The product appears to be a white milky cream.

Determination of pH

The pH of the 20 % w/v cream suspension was determined at 25 °C using a pH meter, It was

standardized using standard buffers in the range of pH 5.0- 7.0 prior to use. The average of

duplicates was determined.

Spread ability

The spread ability of test samples was determined using the following technique:

0.5 g test formulation was placed within a circle of 1 cm diameter pre-marked on a glass plate

over which a second glass plate was placed. A weight of 100 g was allowed to rest on the

upper glass plate for 5 min. The increase in the diameter due to spreading of the test

formulation was noted. Average of three determinations was noted.


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Viscosity

The viscosity of different formulation was determined at 370C using a Brook field

viscometer. The viscosity was measured by using spindle 64. Results mentioned in table

no. 6.

Thermal stability

Thermal stability of the prepared formulations was determined at 20°C, 30°C and 40°C

according to Indian standard guidelines.

In vitro occlusivity test

Complete coverage of the surface of the skin indicates occlusion of skin. Filter paper covered

water-filled beaker method is used here. The occlusion of isabgol cream samples were

evaluated by applying the in vitro occlusion test. The samples of all formulations, control

formulation and a negative control were studied for the in vitro occlusivity to determine the

water flux. The occlusivity of cream can be measured by occlusion factor F = 100*A-B/A

The occlusion factor F was calculated as

Where,

A= Water flux through uncovered filter (percent water loss)

B= Water flux through filter when covered by test preparation (percent water loss).

The minimum occlusion factor is 0 which indicates no occlusion effect and maximum

occlusion factor is 100 which indicate complete surface coverage by topical formulation.50 to

200-mg of each sunscreen cream was applied evenly on the filter paper surface to create solid

film which was found about amount of 8.5 mg/cm2. Reference control was actually a beaker

covered with filter paper without sample application. Store the samples at 32oC and 50-55%

RH for 48 hours. Meanwhile the samples were weighed after 6, 24, and 48 hours to determine

water flux or evaporation through the filter paper. Every experiment was performed in

triplicate.

Measurement of particle size

Laser diffraction method was employed for particle size analysis. Laser diffraction analyser

(Anton Paar Automatic Particle Size Analyzer) was used for measuring the globule size

distribution of the emulsion droplets. The sample was dispersed in 0.3 micron filtered

distilled water to obtain an obscuration of 5-15%.


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RESULTS AND DISCUSSION

pH

pH of all the formulations was found to be between 7.0+ 0.195 to 7.21+ 0.188. these values

indicate that the pH is within the range, which are presented in the table. It is an acceptable

value as per ISI standards.

Viscosity studies

As emboldened in the adjoining column add the range of viscosity (2456±6.18 to 4066±7.22)

and 10 rpm.

Spread ability test

The spread ability of all formulations was determined and it was observed that formulation

MF6 has higher spread ability as compared to other formulations as well as the control

formulation as shown in table 4.

Thermal stability

The most important evaluation parameters in cosmetic formulation evaluation are thermal

stability, viscosity, and spreadability. These are the ultimate factors that affect the stability

and acceptability of the formulation. It was found during evaluation that formulations MF1,

MF2, MF5, MF6, MF7 showed batter stability showed good stability at 20 °C, 30 °C and 40

°C. It can be observed in the following tables that lower thermal stability and spread ability

led to cracking and phase separation of formulations (observed in MF4, MF5, and MF7).

Table 5: Thermal stability of all moisturizing cream formulations.

Formulation code Thermal stability*

20 °C 30 °C 40 °C

MF1 P P P

MF2 P P P

MF3 N N N

MF4 N N N

MF5 P P P

MF6 P P P

MF7 P P P

MF8 N N N

Control Formulation P P P

*P-denotes stability of formulation, N-denotes instability of formulation


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Table 6: Evaluation parameters for the all moisturizing cream formulations.

Formulation

code

pH

(mean±SD)

Viscosity at 10 rpm

(CPS) (mean±SD)

Spreadability

(mean±SD)

MF1 6.80±0.190 2456±6.18 5.00±0.10

MF2 7.10±0.146 2859±6.52 5.96±0.14

MF3 7.20±0.175 2895±5.52 4.72±0.10

MF4 7.21±0.200 2018±5.89 6.15±0.16

MF5 7.22±0.216 3026±6.70 6.95±0.10

MF6 7.31±0.112 3240±4.56 5.76±0.19

MF7 7.23±0.175 3515±6.66 5.12±0.08

MF8 7.24±0.186 4066±7.22 5.40±0.16

Prototype

formulation 7.22±0.148 3502±6.95 6.00±0.14

In vitro occlusivity test

Fig. 3: Occlusivity test.

The results of occlusivity are shown in Fig. 3. From the results of occlusivity test it revealed

that the isabgol moisturizer showed significantly higher (p < 0.05) prevention of water loss.

The solid nature of lipid component in isabgol moisturizer and blocking the micropores of

filters to prevent the water evaporation hence isabgol moisturizer showed better occlusivity.

The greater skin occlusivity higher is the skin hydration properties. Hence isabgol moisturizer

increases skin hydration properties which could be helpful for permeation of moisturizer

through the epidermis of skin. MF5 prevented maximum water loss and thus had optimum

occlusivity.

Particle size

The viscosity of emulsion and the viscosity of the continuous phase are directly proportional.

The viscosity of both o/w and w/o emulsions can be increased by decreasing the particle size.

The particle size of both optimized and control formulations were determined using Malvern

instruments. Studies indicate that optimized formulation MF5 has less particle size as


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compared to standard formulation. The reduction of particle size of emulsion increases the

viscosity of emulsion and results in better emulsion stability. The results of particle size are

shown in fig. 4 and fig. 5.

Fig. 4: Graph of particle size distribution for prototype formulation.


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Table 7: Particle size of prototype formulation.

Size

(µm)

%

volume

Under

Size

(µm)

%

volume

Under

Size

(µm)

%

volume

Under

Size

(µm)

%

volume

Under

Size

(µm)

%

volume

Under

Size

(µm)

%

volume

Under

Size

(µm)

%

volume

Under

Size

(µm)

%

volume

Under

0.0100 0.00 0.0597 0.00 0.357 0.00 2.13 85.07 12.7 100.00 76 100.00 454 100.00 2710 100.00

0.0114 0.00 0.0679 0.00 0.405 0.00 2.42 88.93 14.5 100.00 86.4 100.00 513 100.00 3080 100.00

0.0129 0.00 0.0771 0.00 0.460 0.60 2.75 92.44 16.4 100.00 98.1 100.00 586 100.00 3500 100.00

0.0147 0.00 0.0876 0.00 0.523 2.62 3.12 95.44 18.7 100.00 111 100.00 666 100.00

0.0167 0.00 0.0995 0.00 0.594 6.76 3.55 97.76 21.2 100.00 127 100.00 756 100.00

0.0189 0.00 0.113 0.00 0.675 13.31 4.03 99.27 24.1 100.00 144 100.00 859 100.00

0.0215 0.00 0.128 0.00 0.767 22.07 4.58 100.00 27.4 100.00 163 100.00 976 100.00

0.0244 0.00 0.146 0.00 0.872 32.33 5.21 100.00 31.1 100.00 186 100.00 1110 100.00

0.0278 0.00 0.166 0.00 0.991 43.09 5.92 100.00 35.3 100.00 211 100.00 1260 100.00

0.0315 0.00 0.188 0.00 1.13 53.35 6.72 100.00 40.1 100.00 240 100.00 1430 100.00

0.0358 0.00 0.214 0.00 1.28 62.38 7.64 100.00 45.6 100.00 272 100.00 1630 100.00

0.0407 0.00 0.243 0.00 1.45 69.85 8.68 100.00 51.8 100.00 310 100.00 1850 100.00

0.0463 0.00 0.276 0.00 1.65 75.87 9.86 100.00 58.9 100.00 352 100.00 2100 100.00

0.0526 0.00 0.314 0.00 1.88 80.80 11.2 100.00 66.9 100.00 400 100.00 2390 100.00


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Table 8: Particle size evaluation of MF5.

Size

(µm)

%Vol

Under

Size

(µm)

%Vol

Under

Size

(µm)

%Vol

Under

Size

(µm)

%Vol

Under

Size

(µm)

%Vol

Under

Size

(µm)

%Vol

Under

Size

(µm)

%Vol

Under

Size

(µm)

%Vol

Under

0.0100 0.00 0.0592 0.00 0.357 0.00 2.13 26.54 12.00 100.00 76.9 99.00 454 100.00 2710 100.00

0.0114 0.00 0.0679 0.00 0.409 0.00 2,42 34.45 14.5 100.00 84.4 100.00 514 100.00 3080 100.00

0.0129 0.00 0.0273 0.00 0.460 0.00 2.75 42.92 16.6 100.00 98.1 100.00 526 100.00 4500 100.00

0.0149 0.00 0.0676 0.00 0.523 0.00 3.12 51.71 18.7 100.00 111 100.00 644 100.00

0.0157 0.00 0.0995 0.00 0.594 0.09 3.55 60.55 21.2 100.00 127 100.00 754 100.00

0.0189 0.00 0.313 0.00 0.675 0.27 4.00 69.10 24.1 100.00 144 100.00 859 100.00

0.0215 0.00 0.128 0.00 0.767 0.58 4.58 76.91 27.4 100.00 163 100.00 976 100.00

0.0244 0.00 0.146 0.00 0.872 1.09 5.21 83.80 31.1 100.00 186 100.00 1110 100.00

0.0278 0.00 0.166 0.00 0.991 1.90 5.92 89.36 35.1 100.00 211 100.00 1268 100.00

0.0315 0.00 0.188 0.00 1.13 3.26 6.72 93.60 40.1 100.00 242 100.00 1430 100.00

0.0338 0.00 0,214 0.00 1.28 3.41 7.64 96.58 45.8 100.00 272 100.00 1630 100.00

0.0432 0.00 0.243 0.00 1.45 3.83 8.00 98.47 51.8 100.00 310 100.00 1850 100.00

0.0458 0.00 0.276 0.00 1.65 11.50 9.86 99.52 54.9 100.00 352 100.00 2100 100.00

0.0478 0.00 0.314 0.00 1.88 19.46 11.2 99.91 66.9 100.00 400 100.00 2390 100.00


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CONCLUSION

Moisturizing cream formulations were subjected to various assessment parameters and the

values obtained were within the limits which are depicted in table 5, 6, 7 and 8. pH of all the

formulations was found to be alkaline. All the formulations exhibited psuedoplastic flow in

terms of viscosity. The spread ability of formulation MF5 is higher than other formulations as

well as the prototype formulation. Amongst all of the formulations, only MF1, MF2, MF4,

MF5, MF7 and MF8 showed better thermal stability at 20 °C, 30 °C and 40 °C. The MF5 was

selected as optimized formulation on the basis of results of spread ability and viscosity. The

particle size of both optimized and prototype formulation indicates that reduction in particle

size of emulsion improves the viscosity of it and results in better emulsion stability. In vitro

occlusivity study was done for optimized formulation MF5 and prototype formulation. It is

seen that overall occlusivity is improved by using sunflower wax in optimized formulation

MF5 as compared to the prototype formulation.

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