FootwearPlus August 2015

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AUGUST 2015 VOL 25 ISSUE 7

THE NEW SUMMER STAPLE FOR GUYS CHECK OUT TH IS WEARABLE ART GEOX SET FOR U .S . RE-LA

FLASHBACKDesigners Groove

to a 70s Vibe for Spring


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AUGUST 2015 VOL 25 ISSUE 7

THE NEW SUMMER STAPLE FOR GUYS CHECK OUT TH IS WEARABLE ART GEOX SET FOR U .S . RE-LA

FLASHBACKDesigners Groove

to a 70s Vibe for Spring


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FOOTWEAR PLUS (ISSN#1054-898X) The fashion magazine of the footwear industry is published monthly (except for bimonthly April/May and October/November editions) by Symphony Publishing NY, LLC, 36 Cooper Square, 4th fl., New York, NY,

10003-7118. The publishers of this magazine do not accept responsibility for statements made by their advertisers in business competition. Periodicals postage is paid in New York, NY, and additional mailing offices. Subscription price for one year:

$48.00 in the U.S. Rates oustide the U.S. are available upon request. Single copy price: $10.00. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to FOOTWEAR PLUS, P.O. Box 8548, Lowell, MA 01853-8548. Publisher not responsible for unsolicited articles or

photos. Any photographs, artwork, manuscripts, editorial samples or merchandise sent for editorial consideration are sent at the sole risk of the sender. Symphony Publishing NY, LLC, will assume no responsibility for loss or damage. No portion of this

issue may be reproduced without the written permission of the publisher. 2008 by Symphony Publishing NY, LLC. Printed in the United States.

12 Editors Note

14 This Just In

16 Scene & Heard

68 Whats Selling

84 Shoe Salon90 E-beat

92 Upclose Comfort

96 Last Word

AU G U S T 2 0 1 5

Caroline DiacoPublisher

Greg DutterEditorial Director

Nancy CampbellTrevett McCandlisCreative Directors

EDITORIALTara Anne DalbowFashion Editor

Kirby StirlandAssociate Editor

Laurie ConeAssociate Editor

Kathy PasseroEditor at Large

Melodie JengContributing Photog

Judy LeandContributing Editor

AD VE RT IS IN G/PRODUCTIONJennifer CraigAssociate Publisher

Capri CrescioAdvertising Manag

Tim JonesDeputy Art DirectorProduction Manage

Allison KastnerOperations Manage

Bruce SpragueCirculation Director

Mike HoffDigital Director

OFFICES

Advertising/Edito36 Cooper Square, 4New York, NY 1000Tel: (646) 278-1550Fax: (646) [email protected]

Circulation26202 Detroit Road

Westlake, OH 4414Tel: (440) 871-1300circulation@9Thre

Corporate9Threads26202 Detroit Road

Westlake, OH 4414Tel: (440) 871-1300

Xen Zapis

ChairmanLee ZapisPresident

Rich BongornoChief Financial Offi

Debbie GrimController

18 Tech Talk Googles Bonita Stewart shares

five smart steps to make the digital era work for

brick-and-mortar stores.By Kathy Passero

20 American Accent Tracy Smith leads thestateside re-launch of Italian lifestyle brand

Geox.By Greg Dutter

26 Anything Goes Spring 16 footwear trends

span decades, materials, movements and muses,

combining fashion with comfort features and

eco-friendly components.By Tara Anne Dalbow

30 Trend Spotting From pony hair to

pastels, zeroing in on the latest themes of

the new season.By Tara Anne Dalbow

52 Destination: ShoesTops for Shoes of Asheville,

NC, attracts shoppers from six states and

beyond with its extensive selection and top-notch

customer service.By Jeanne OBrien Coffey

58Blank CanvasFueled by consumers

increasing desire to stand out from the masses,

a bevy of brands are offering custom art designs.

By Kirby Stirland

64Urban RenewalOutdoor brands blend trail-

worthy performance features with metro style to

build broader consumer appeal.By Judy Leand

70European Vacation Espadrilles present a

stylish alternative for guys looking for a

step up from flip-flops and fisherman sandals.

By Tara Anne Dalbow

74Waiting for the Sun Elevated wood clogs

offer a bohemian flair in tune with the seasons

70s-era styling.By Tara Anne Dalbow

86Spring Awakening The kids market is

awash with vibrant color, playful prints and go-

anywhere styles.By Kirby Stirland

Photography by Trevett

McCandliss; FashionEditor: Tara Anne Dalbow;

stylist: Claudia Talamas;hair and makeup by

Sacha Harford/Next

Artists: model: Aspen/Red Model Management.

On the cover: Terhi Plkki

clogs, Free People dress,

necklace by Ayaka Nishi.

This page: Natural World

canvas espadrille lace-up,

No. 6 peep-toe braided

clogs, Zadig & Voltaire

chambray top, scarf by

YSA NYC, necklace by

Ayaka Nishi.

P AGE

70

P AGE

74


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E D I T O R S N O T E

Bater Up

E D I T O R S N O T E

OPPORTUNITY KNOCKSFrom cover to cover, this show issue is packed with ideas, concepts, strategies,

opinions, stories and, of course, tons of great-looking shoes.

NOTHING THESE DAYSis a slam-dunk,

as an infamous former CIA director once

guaranteed. Even the surest of potential

home runs can hook foul at the last secondand cant-miss prospects fall short of ever

breaking into the big leagues. Far too many

variables exist, be they competition, injuries,

failure to fulfill expectations or just plain

bad luck. Fortunately, what never vanishes

in sports or, thankfully, in the shoe business is the opportunity to

hit it big. The endless stream of ideas and innovations is boundless,

season after season. And the crowds, i.e. consumers, keep coming

back for more. As long as such opportunity exists, theres hope at

the onset of every new season.

Every page of our Spring 16 preview issue presents opportunities.

While not all are guaranteed home runs, sometimes the secret to

a winning season is putting together a line-up of potential singles

and doubles. It could be selecting a particular style featured on

one of our numerous Trend Spotting pages (beginning on page 30).Or perhaps it involves delving further into one of the many spring

trends highlighted in this series to turn an item into a meaningful

segment. Then again, it could mean giving one of the brands in

our feature about the growing popularity of custom art designs

(Blank Canvas, page 58), our outdoor market preview (Urban

Renewal, page 64) or our Upclose Comfort section (page 94) a

chance to break into a store line-up. Often such rookie call-ups,

when given their opportunity to shine, prove to be all-stars in the

making. How else do the Mike Trouts of the world (2012 Rookie

of the Year) get their shot?

Next up could be inspiration and insights gleaned from our

retail profile of Tops for Shoes (Destination: Shoes, page 52) in

Asheville, NC. A sit-and-fit heavy hitter at 35,000 square feet with

300 brands on display, it draws customers by the busload from six

surrounding states. Those are some solid shoe retailing sabermetrics.

Tops, opened in 1952 and run by third-generation family member

Alex Carr, is a throwback brick-and-mortar retailer proving that it

can still be doneand quite successfully.

Not everything featured in our pages requires a direct buy. A

profile of a store or brand can often spark a wealth of ideas or, at

the very least, points to contemplate when putting together a game

plan. Take this months Q&A with Tracy Smith, the new president ofU.S. operations for Geox (American Accent, page 20). The former

Cole Haan exec is spearheading the stateside re-launch of the Italian

lifestyle brand known for its breathable and waterproof comfort

technologies. In discussing the strategy, an industry trend came into

play: consumers growing desire for smart products. A key element

is that they must be subtle, user-friendly designs of the sort Apple

has made famousand of the sort Smith says Geox offers. Its just

one reason why the seasoned industry veteran believes Geox, a $1

billion global brand, presents a tremendous yet largely untapped

opportunity for U.S. retailers.

When rounding out an issue, I also like to mix in a few items

that might have flown under the radar of industry scouts but

that deserve an opportunity to take the field. Often its an upstart

brand, a quirky style or an out-there concept. In some cases, i t

involves all three. Take this months Last Word (page 96) aboutthe birth of Redneck Boot Sandals, for example. Missouri-based

entrepreneur Scotty Franklin has been kicking up a heated debate

in certain fashion circles about whether his cowboy boot and sandal

mash-up is the next big thing or a fashion dont on the scale of MC

Hammer pants. Beauty, of course, is in the eye of the beholder, but

our industrys long track record of ugly duckling smash hits cannot

be overlooked. Beyond that, I say our industry should welcome all

entrepreneurs. If we dont, well be left with a line-up of creaky old

veterans unwilling and unable to adapt on the fly.

There are plenty of potential stars in this issues line-up, and I

hope you enjoy reading about them. Until next time, our team of

Footwear Pluseditors will be patrolling the show aisles here and

abroad in search of our next roster of hot topics, solid prospects

and, we all hope, a home run or two. So lets play ball!

Greg Dutter

Editorial Director

12 footwearplusmagazine.com august 2015


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T H I S J U S T I N

The gentlemen of

Paris Fashion Week

brought a certain

je ne sais quoito streetstyle with a heavy

accent on casual kicks.

Photography by

Melodie Jeng

HOMME

BOYS



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16 footwearplusmagazine.com july 2015

NOW THIS ISfishy businessin a good way!Adidas, in partnership with environmental orga-

nization Parley for the Oceans, unveiled a ground-

breaking prototype shoe made of reclaimed ocean

waste materials at a recent United Nations event.

The sleek sneaker was constructed using the

latest fiber placement technology. Recycled ocean

plastic and illegal nylon gillnets (reclaimed by

Sea Shepherd, a conservation group that works

to protects marine life) were re-engineered into

a continuous filament of yarn that was stitched

to create a flexible yet precise-fitting upper. In

addition to offering stability and fit, the result-

ing convergence of vertical and horizontal

lines in vibrant ocean turquoise furthers

the aquatic theme by evoking an intuitivevisual of waves, says Adidas spokesperson

Maria Culp.

The shoe was assembled at Adidas

German headquarters using a manufac-

turing process that results in almost no

waste, since less than 1 percent of the

yarns created are not fully integrated

into the final product. Whats more,

the innovative design went from sea to streetin just six days.

Our goal is very simpleto save our oceans,

Culp states, adding that the prototype shoe is

evidence of what is possible through our part-

nership with Parley for the Oceans. Look for

an expanded offering of Adidas products that

incorporate reclaimed ocean plastic in the near

future.

REMEMBER MOOD RINGSthat

supposedly changed colors based on

your disposition? Well, how about

taking that concept a step further

by being able to change the color

of your sneakers, but this time you

are actually in control of the color,

graphics and patterns you desire?

Thats the premise behind the

smart surface Shift Sneaker concept by +rehabstudio. The Shift Sneaker was born out of trying to

make wearable tech look good and trying to revolutionize sneaker design at the same time, says Mike

Veitch, managing partner at +rehabstudio, a creative technology company with offices in London,

Belfast and New York.

Potential fabrics for the shoe may include LED woven strips and conductive fibers, controlled either

by an app (where you can choose specific colors via your smartphone) or a Dorothy-style heel clickdevice (which causes random colors to instantly appear). As far as the app goes, Veitch notes, Users

would be able to shift styles by downloading different packs from a Pack Storea sneaker-specific

app store. Offerings would range from glowing hues to animated graphics as well as limited-edition

designs from artists. Its a million pairs of sneakers in one, Veitch claims, adding that the company

is exploring research and development partner options. Weve had an astonishing response online,

he reports.

MoodShoes

S C E N E & H E A R D

BEHOLD THE

MOON CHOO

WHAT DO YOUget when you cross the

legendary Moon Boot with renowned luxury

label Jimmy Choo? The Moon Choo or

perhaps the Jimmy Boot. Whatever you

call the first-ever, limited-edition collab

between the two iconic footwear entities, its

a collection thats surely out of this world.

Unveiled during Paris Fashion Week last

month alongside Jimmy Choos Cruise 16

collection, the collab comprises eight styles

developed off of Moon Boots Classic and

Buzz silhouettes. It features multiple color

and material variations, including options

in luxurious shearling, fox and faux fur. In

addition, exclusive details such as Swarovsk

star-shaped crystals (on the aptly namedCrystal model) and braided laces with

bright metal tips featuring a small crystal

inside on all models add an element of

surprise to the collection, according to

Maurizio Di Trani, global marketing and

communications director of Jimmy Choo.

This collaboration between two great

brands enhances our focus on premium

goods for an international audience of

fashion lovers, says Alberto Zanatta, CEO

of Tecnica Group (makers of Moon Boot).

With the creative and unique design talent

at Jimmy Choo, we are sure the partnership

will be a great success.

Ive always loved the futuristic, yet

retro-cool Italian design of Moon Boot,

and Im deli ghted to create a Jimmy

Choo signature look befitting that style,

states Sandra Choi, creative director of

Jimmy Choo.

Catch of the Day


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WHEN IT COMES to channeling the power of technology to inspire busi-

ness growth and success, Bonita Stewart is an expert. As Vice President,

Americas, Partner Business Sol utions at G oogle, Stewart helps brand s

create online campaigns that do more than engage consumers across

multiple platforms; they generate revenue from digital content. In her

current role, Stewart draws from an extensive business and marketing

background that includes an MBA from Harvard Business School and yearsas a marketing expert in management for IBM as well as DaimlerChrysler.

The Denver native also founded and oversaw her own successful web-based

company before joining Google. This month, she shares five smart strate-

gies retailers can use to not only survive, but thrive in todays fast-paced

digital-centric world.

1) Understand the Modern Shoppers Journey

With the proli feration of mobile devices, consu mers are connec ted 24/7

and so are stores. Google has a division

that focuses exclusively on retailers of

all sizes, and what our data shows is that

shoppers are spending much more time

researching online than ever before,

says Stewart. Our research shows

that 42 percent of in-store consumers

conduct research online before they

shop, 93 percent of them go on to buy

andmost important50 percent

purchase within the hour. Whats more,

searches that include the words near

me have increased two-fold over the

past year, she says.

Consumers are not only spending

more time researching online, but their

searches are increasingly moving to

mobile and theyre making purchasedecisions very quickly, Stewart points

out. They have the opportunity to

find new and interesting things close

to them through technology. The vast

majority of consumers still buy in-store,

but theyre gathering information about

their in-store purchases through tech

platforms before they make them.

What does this mean to a retailer?

First, it means you cant afford to

think online versus store anymore.

The philosophy of the day is online

plus store, Stewart explains. Next,

you need to und erstand how the con-

sumers journey plays out across multiplescreens. We found that 90 percent of

consumers switch from screen to screen

to accomplish tasks throughout their

daily activ ities.

Start to track the shoppers journey,

she suggests. Go online yourself and see

how you look to consumers as theyre

going through the purchase process.

Put yourself in their shoes. Thats

always quite an eye-opener, Stewart

notes. Also, recognize the i ncreasing

importance of mobile technology and

start to understand the multiple devices

consumers may be using. At one point,

its the smartphone. At another point,its the tablet. At work, its the desktop.

At home, theres in terac tive TV, says

Stewart.

During my tenure at DaimlerChrysler,

which was dur ing the eme rgenc e of

online technology, I advocated for

focusing on this. I called it the fifth P of

marketing, which is process, she

Five smart steps to makethe digital era work for brick-

and-mortar stores, from GooglesBonita Stewart.

FOOTWEAR NETWORK SERIES

PRESENTED BY DECKERS BRANDS

Tech Talk

BY KATHY PASS ERO

STYLE FILE: BONITA ST

How would you describe yo

personal style? Id call it De

meets-New York City. I try to

be as chic as I can within Ne

York standards, but I grew u

in Denver and at some point

fall back on that Denver cas

aesthetic.

Whats your go-to shoe sty

Like I said, Im a Denver girl.

has always been important t

me for its amazing comfort.

What are you reading now?

The Road to Characterby D

Brooks, but I just got my cop

Harper Lees new book, Go S

a Watchman, so Ill be readin

both of them. My all-time fa

ite book isAs a Man Thinket

by James Allen, though now

should probably be re-titled

Man or Woman Thinketh.

Whats your favorite thing

do when youre not workin

love ballet. Ive been dancin

a hobby for years.

Have you learned any lesso

from ballet that have prove

useful in the business world

There are two major lessons

First, ballet requires focus, d

cipline and grace, even whe

you fall. It teaches you how

get up and get back into the

rhythm. Thats an important

skill when youre in technolo

because its an inevitable pa

of experimentation. The sec

lesson is knowing how to be

of the corps de ballet. You d

necessarily dance solo. Fromwork perspective, collaborat

is essential.

Whats your motto?For life

Live each day to its fullest.

work, its Peter Druckers say

The best way to predict the

future is to create it.>93


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NTIL NOW, GEOX,a $1 billion-plus public entity that has

penetrated nearly all corners of the globe and dominates the

European market on a Nike-like scale, has experienced lim-

ited success in the United States. So, what gives? Most experts

would agree that its not the product, which is grounded in

Geoxs renowned breathable technology that spans mens, womens and

kids and is in step with a comfort-loving nation in search of versatile styl-

ing. Many would also concur that it has not been for lack of effort. A s

of well-regarded footwear executives gave managing the U.S. subsid

a whirl over the past decade or so, only to run into philosophical d

ences on key issues like product assortment, delivery schedules and

tribution strategies. Basically, the industry sentiment was that the

division operated with too much of a European accent and, as his

indicates with many overseas brands trying to break into this market,

often leads to difficulties.

But that was then and this is now. New President of U.S. Operations T

Smith (who joined in February following, most notably, an 18-year sti

Cole Haan, where he rose through the ranks to become president) dec

that Geoxs approach to building the brand in the States is now squa

focused on the wants, needs and terms specific to this market. For s

ers, the corporate office is now on the same page. Smith notes that GCEO Giorgio Presca, who came on board in 2012, has run an Amer

company (hes the former president of VF Jeanswear) and lived here

same can be said of Commercial Director Enrico Moretti Polegato. T

really understand the potential of this market, and that we have to cr

and build a more independent subsidiary in the U.S., Smith says, add

Its a completely different ballgame now.

Smith predicts the industry will begin to see this independent appr

in full force with the launch of Geoxs Spring 16 collections, which w

highlighted by a snazzy new booth at the FN Platform show in Las V

this month. Its not just the normal booth filled with shelves and s

people, he says. Well be calling out our different technology stories

Nebula and Amphibiox, with creative display fixtures and flat screen

running technology and branding videos. Its going to be a nice surp

for everybody.

While many of the other changes may not be as flashy, Smith says l

tical matters (like ordering and delivery dates) reflect a clear chang

philosophy that should alleviate previous headaches. The dates just d

match cleanly with the way business is run here, Smith notes. Those t

of issues are fixable if you approach them in the right way, and fortun

I have had support from our global supply chain and am planning to d

Thats going to be an immediate difference that retailers will see.

Retailers will also see noticeable changes in the product, somet

that began with the arrival of Presca who, Smith says, is a product g

American AccentTracy Smith, president of U.S. operations for Geox, is leading the

Italian lifestyle brands re-launch with a decidedly stateside approach tooperations, product and marketing.


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dont win in the long run. I like to use the analogy of driving with a clutch:

theres got to be that perfect balance to make the car go smoothly. If you

dont give it enough gas, you stall. If you let out the clutch too quick, you

stall. You have to find the right combination.

Can a shoe company run on automatic?

I dont think so. [Laughs.]

Where do Geoxs direct-to-consumer efforts fit into this balance?

Its a part of everybodys plan now, because its about how and where the

consumer wants to engage a brand. We have to make sure we are partner-

ing with our retailers and with our own e-commerce to make sure we are

giving the customer that opportunity to shop and connect with the brand

how they want to. That said, I think there are always going to be brick-

and-mortar stores that offer superior customer service and that touch-and-

feel experience. And theres always going to be the convenience of online

shopping. Omnichannel is the model. The trend, over time, may swing a

little bit from one to the other. There could be a little bit of a backlash with

online where weve lost the ability to interact with people and to touch and

feel product. I would say you are seeing some of that sentiment of late with

pure-play online retailers opening up brick-and-mortar stores, be it Warby

Parker, Bonobos or Zappos. But no way do I envision one format replac-ing the other entirely. And I dont think one will ever be 90 percent share

and the other 10 percent.

Im surprised at how certain segments of our industry still ignore the

online shopping component. I think consumers just expect that option

today wherever they are shopping.

Im absolutely sure thats the expectation today, no matter what type of

store you enter. Take Mitchells as an example, which I consider to be one

of the finest clothing and accessories stores in the country, yet they only

launched their website last year. But they took their time and did a great

job. Im fortunate to live within a mile of their store in Westport, CT, and I

still love the in-store experienceto have a salesman that knows me per-

sonally and knows what I like. But now if Im stuck someplace and need

something, I can go online and make that purchase.

Is online retailing the ultimate game changer?

The only other thing that may even come close, and Im not sure it does, is

when the big department stores went national. But online retailing changed

how we were able to shop and not just where we were able to shop.

Speaking of shopping, whats the plan regarding Geox brand stores?

The plan at one time had been extensive.

I think that strategy was at a different time in the history of the company

and, honestly, a different time in the markets history, namely before the

recession. I just dont think that level of a store rollout is really applicable

in todays economy. To me, its always been about balancing the business

between wholesale and retail. You have to find the great wholesale partners

that can really present your brand in the right way to consumers. And by

that I mean target consumers that are shared between the brand and the

retailer. You have to have company stores to be able to market the brandand tell the complete story to the consumer. The two aspects should work

together to the mutual advantage and benefit of both parties. It should

never be an us vs. them scenario. We always tried to achieve that balance

at Cole Haan and I believe, to a large extent, we did.

Just how big are you envisioning Geoxs potential in this market?

Well, theres a lot of room from where we are now and where Cole Haan

was when I left. Those are two significantly different numbers. But >94

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26

AnythingSpring 16 footwear trends spandecades, materials, movements andmusesall while combining fashionwith comfort features andenvironmentally friendly components.BY TARA ANNE DALBOW

GoesACK IN THEday, people used to wait aroundfor the next big trend, relying onHarpers Bazaarand Vogueto report on the latest color of the sea-son, the hemline, the material and the shoe. But

times have changedin this instant-access, viral

media world, the floodgates have been opened andno trend goes unnoticed. What was once a fairly

predictable trend cycle dictated by the runways of Paris and distilled bythe fashion glossies is now more of an open-door policy where anything

goesand stays.New trends come in all the time but old trends dont die, notes Michael

Schenck, design director at MIA Shoes. Its led to a mixed bag of trendswhere few are dominant, or particularly long-lasting. With unprecedented

access to trends, consumers are becoming more eclectic and unique intheir fashion choices, simply because they can.

Its the individual movement, says Wall Street Journalcolumnist TeriAgins. People want to stand out and show off. Its cool to be original and

to dress outside of the box. This pushes designers to design pieces in line

with their own original vision, with the hopes that a niche group of sumers will buy into it.

The result is a vast marketplace of micro trends. Look no further the Resort 16 collections for evidence, where design elements inclu

over-the-top ruffles, animal prints, fur trims, metallic brocades and a

uge of bright colors and spanned influences from the 60s, 70s, 80s90s. The looks were fanciful, indulgent and, above all, fun. Desig

focused on different eras, rare materials and exotic locales, produciseason where each collection was drastically different from the next.

can draw inspiration from everywhere with a click of a button, Schsays. I can go on the Internet and see what young people are wearin

the streets of Barcelona and what the designers are putting out in PaSo what does that mean for footwear in Spring 16? Be on the l

out for a little bit of anything and everything. To communicate a disnarrative in your store (and to avoid getting lost in the teeming m

trends), experts advise seeking out styles that pop and present a cpoint of view. Here,Footwear Plusbreaks down four key themes ning through the Spring 16 collections.

DECADE SURFING

Nostalgia for the second half of last century

continues to foster a phantasmagoria of trendinfluences. Theres a real eclectic trend that is

definitely moving us away from minimalism,

explains Ida Petersson, senior footwear buyerfor luxury e-commerce site Net-a-Porter. Its amarriage of the 60s, 70s, 80s and some 90s.

In addition to millions of aging baby boom-ers enamored with the past,

theres also a youth movement

fueling this trend. Peterssoncites the many similarities

of todays world with that ofthe 1970s as having a strong

influence on designers. Theres so much politicalunrest and young people getting involved socially,

similarly to how it was then, she explains. Itmakes sense that it would be referenced now.

Agins predicts that the 70s influence on fash-

ion will continue into Spring 16, but in a morerefined and nuanced way. Look for clogs and plat-

forms in suede and nubuck, which can be wornwith wider-leg pants and crochet dresses. The

70s theme is prevalent, bothin mens and womenswear,

agrees Katie Smith, seniorretail analyst at Editd. This

calls for more block heels,ankle bootswere even see-

ing cowboy boot styling start

to come through thanks to Miu Miuas as increased numbers of sensible-looking fl

Designers looking beyond this well-worn deare showcasing round toe, mid block heel pu

and slingbacks, circa the 60s, offering the i

cent, feminine appeal of Mod ingnues. Ireturn to something more ladylike, says L

Gallin, president of footwear at UBM AdvanOther designers are drawn to patent lea

and bright colors la the 80s. Everyone is tof black and gray, notes Petersson, who po

toward bold colors at Lanvins 80s-inspresort collection as perhaps the trends epi

ter. Smith agrees, noting the prevalence of crbrights such as bold blues, reds, greens and

lows across many spring collections.

B

Designers

page from

tory, bring

back platfoclogs, like

daisy style

Flogg.


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Natural desig

elements

ground sum-

mer styles, lik

this Sarah Fli

espadrille.

MODERN COMFORTS

Consumers who are accustomed to the ease and comfort of sneakers areseeking similar features and benefits in their heels and loafers. Shoes

have to be comfortable, not just fashionable, explains Schenck. The con-sumer today is not like her mother, who had to buy a certain shoe because

it was the right look. Shes not a fashion victimshe wants there to besome sort of comfort function. Schenck reports that comfort is now a

main consideration when building MIAs otherwise fashion-driven lineof wood-bottom clogs, casual heels, embellished flats, trendy sandals

and Western booties.Gallin points toward Valentino as understanding the consumers comfort

preference. The brand now puts the same upper on varying heel height

constructions, ranging from flats to four-inch stilettoes. [Valentino]realized that they could have the same beautiful shoe on a heel height

that is more tolerable for womens lifestyles, Gallin says, adding, Todayslifestyle is dictating heel heights.

Along those lines, block heels, platforms and flatforms are expectedto experience a resurgence in popularity for next spring due to the com-

fort of a sturdy and stable foundation. Look to wood stacked heel san-dals, 70s-style platforms and flatform bottoms with a variety of uppers.

We saw flatforms last season, but I think they will be even stronger forthis season, reports Petersson. Girls want to be super comfortable, but

they still want to be tall. Petersson predicts that flatform sneakers andespadrilles will be important styles for the seasons.

NATURES CALL

Carried through from the past few seasons, the natural trend is expe

to once again play a leading role in Spring 16 collections. With friendly brands like Reformation making waves in the fashion c

munity, preserving Mother Nature has become the third check onmodern consumers list after comfort and style.

Everyone is trying to be more sustainable, notes Sarah Flint, fwear designer for her eponymous label. My collection features a l

natural materials: raffias, cottons, wood and vegetable-tanned leathKimmy He, lead designer at Restricted, teases a music-fest

inspired collection thats also grounded in earth tones and nat

tumbled and burnished leathers. Espadrilles and jute-wrapped deadd to the brands earthen aesthetic for next spring, especially wpaired with crochet and macram materials. Look for rich text

to update otherwise simple shapes, such as woven leathers, snskin-embossed details and mixed materials. Artisan touches, suc

hand-burnishing and intricate hand-crocheted fabrics, evoke aut

tic craftsmanship.

LEISURE TIME

Athleisure, the trend that led women to swapjeans for yoga pants and men to pair sneakers

with suits, shows no signs of waning. Consumershave embraced the activewear trend wholeheart-

edly, meaning not only are they investing in thegarments the trend promotes, but they h ave

adopted it into their lifestyles, too, reports Smith.The athleisure lifestyle includes nylon pants

and sneakers, but also gym memberships andjuice cleanses. And its not only appealing to

long-time health nuts and fitness fanatics, but

now spans fashion insiders and bloggers, who

are posting as many images of their workouts astheir wardrobes. This imagery is certainly draw-

ing consumers to casual apparel, Smith notes.The hero shoe of the trend is undoubtedly the

sneaker. Worn with not only track pants andboyfriend denim, but also Cline trousers and

Valentino gowns, the de rigueur fashion sneakerhas become a bona fide category, reports Agins.

It used to be a flourish, but now everybody isdoing sneakers, she reports. Agins notes that a

trip to the Barneys shoe salon proves the breadth

of the sneakers power, with top design housessuch as Chanel and Maison Martin Margiela

offering up styles with hefty price tags. Accordingto an Editd study, the average price of womens

sneakers rose from $171 to $254 this spr

This is a brand new category that did not before, Agins adds.

Unlike many fashion It items that resurfrom the not-so-distant past (like bell bott

and platforms), fashion sneakers are a mustbecause no one really had a pair of haute cou

sneakers in the back of their closet. Its a new fassegment. But its not just fashion labels uppin

style ante on sneakers. Athletic brands are oing more fashion-forward looks with bold pr

bright colors and contrasting outsoles. Tho

simple monochromatic styles such as Adidas Smith and Common Projects Achilles cont

to thrive, thanks in part to their heritage feelease of wear, experts agree that come next sea

consumers will be looking to stand out.Sang min Park, footwear designer at Un

Nude, believes consumers will gravitate towtechnical, sporty fabrics on all silhouettes

just sneakers. This lifestyle is affecting fastrends, thus more functional materials

new constructions are becoming a big trePark predicts that woven fabrics and col

Perspex, along with architectural silhoueand geometric patterns, will also appeal to

athleisure consumer.

The athleisure

trend produced

a new footwear

category: fashion

sneakers, likethis Giuseppe

Zanotti style.

Designers up

the comfort

on all silhou-

ettes, not

just sneak-

ers, including

this Spring

Step loafer.


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TOPS FOR SHOES advertises that it serves a six-state

region, but that may actually be an understatement. Owner

Alex Carr says people travel from as far as New York for the

Asheville, NC, stores selection of more than 300 brands in

a 35,000-square-foot space.

Ive had customers tell me that they live in New York

City and they buy all their shoes here, Carr says. They

dont like shopping in New York because they would have

to visit six different stores to find what they are looking for,as opposed to here, where they can find it all.

New Yorkers arent the only ones traveling to Tops. Carr

says many of his customers come from other large markets

like Atlanta and Charlotte to shop his store, tucked in the

Blue Ridge Mountains, a prime vacation destination. In fact, six out of 10

Tops customers are reportedly not from the area. Our business is driven by

the tourist industry, Carr says, so he stocks a wide selection of casual trail-

oriented styles by Merrell, Keen and Astral Designs; the latter is an Asheville-

based company whose mens line has done especially well. While those

critical component of Carrs merchandise mix, its not Tops sole mission

retailer prides itself on specializing in often-neglected widths and size

focus that was initiated by Carrs grandfather, Louis Resnikoff. A pione

Tops for Shoes is a tourist attraction in its own

right, drawing customers with an extensive selection and

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hands-on nature of the business in

ways he hadnt when he was younger.

Thats where it startson the fitting

stool, he says, adding that customer

contact is critical to his purchasing

decisions. Its great to be able to see

what is selling and react There is no

better ammunition to take into a shoe

show than sales experience.

While Carr says the next 10 years

will probably see him moving away

from sales a bit more, he will never

abandon it. I will never walk away

from the floor completely. That would

be a mistake, he says. I can run as

many computer reports as I want, but they wont tell me what the customer

is missing when they come in your store, he says. We always try to find what

they were missing the next time we go to the shows.

To identify items to stock, Tops buyers spend a lot of time at industry

shows, while also actively seeking trends on social media. If something seems

interesting, they will bring it in for a trial run and expand it if it does well.

But even more important than shopping the shows or trawling Facebook

is direct input from customers. To that end, all of Tops buyers perform

double duty on the sales floor. That front-line exposure allows the company

to move quickly to address new trendsor reverse an unpopular decision.

For instance, based on customer in-store inquiries, Carr plans to bring backStuart Weitzman and Pikolinos, two lines the retailer had stopped carrying.

Customer feedback has also encouraged buyers to expand their selection

of dress boots this fall.

When Carr is shopping for new styles, he chooses based on aesthetics

of course, but also how it feel

a shoe feels good in your hand

probably going to feel good on

foot, he offers.

HUMAN TOUCH

While Carr has done some wor

modernize the store, like bringin

more trendy selections to attra

younger customer, one modern

vention is absolutely not on his ra

Tops does not sell on the Internet

has no plans to do so. The retaile

embraced social media marketing

has a robust website showing style

even sale prices, but if a consumer wants to make a purchase, they have to

up the phone and speak to a sales rep, who will work to ensure they are ge

what they need. That gives us a more personal touch, Carr says. I think

web] is a separate business and it should be treated as such. Its not wher

are headed. We know what we do well, and we are not going to fight that ba

In fact, Carr thinks that consumers may actually be tiring of the la

human contact, perhaps returning his classic sit-and-fit premium se

model to the forefront. I think there is a segment of the population th

still yearning for that [level of service], and a lot of the new generati

yearning for it as well, Carr maintains. I think they are getting jaded b

lack of service in the industry.A backlash may be in the offing, Carr predicts, and Tops for Shoes is

poised to take advantage. The shoe business is a great one to exploit t

because people want to try on shoes and they want to be fitted properly

says. People are starting to have serious foot problems, and we can hel

I think [consumers]are getting jaded by

the lack of service inthe industry.

ALEX CARR, OWNER, TOPS FOR SHOES


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AS ANDY WARHOLfamously put it, Art is what you can get away with. A

number of footwear brandsboth big and smallare putting that theory to

the test, commissioning the work of amateur and professional artists alike or

creating bespoke masterpieces on shoes. The goal of customization in footwear

and consumer products overall, it seems, is to tap into the present need for

uniqueness thats often attributed to Millennialsalthough Brendan Dunne

of ComplexsSole Collectorblog points out that Sneaker culture is all about

one-upmanship and having the stuff that nobody else does. He adds, O

the few ways to really guarantee that youve got something nobody else

is to pay someone to make you something truly unique.

From an Etsy upstart pulling in a reported $250,000 this year on h

painted custom shoes to established brands collaborating with artist

exclusive designs, art is making a statement in the footwear space, and in

process, giving consumers a way to assert their individuality. Its a trend t

bolstered by social media, a great equalizer that lets artists at all levels r

the masses, as well as a desire, spurred by the market of mass productio

wear something truly special.

INDIE ROCKS

Blake Barash describes himself in 2008 as disgruntled at a boring cu

job. While working at Union Bank as a credit analyst paid the bills, he go

creative fix painting custom hats and selling them on Myspace. When a fr

tipped him off to a Craigslist ad from Toms seeking local artists to paint s

Fueled by consumers desire to stand outfrom the crowd, footwear becomes a vehicle

for art of all kinds. BY KIRBY STIRLAND

BlankCanvas

Eley

Kishimotos

Drums

print for

Vans.


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at their Style Your Sole events, Painting shoes

sounded like way more fun, Barash quips.

His impressive portfolio got him the gig, and

after a year of customizing canvas slip-ons,

hed build up yet another body of work. I

was painting shoes for customers, they were

loving it, and I was like, this is the best job

ever, he says. So in 2011, he traded number-

crunching and spreadsheets for airbrushing

and acrylics with the launch of his Etsy store,

B Street Shoes.

Fast-forward four years and Barash now

has two full-time employees, who turn out

nearly 100 pairs of shoes a month from a

warehouse in Costa Mesa, CA. He explains

that years of trial and error have helped him

figure out the best techniques for applying

artwork to shoes of all types (not just canvas,

but also suede, nubuck and other materials).

A solid four years [has] given me

long enough to realize that Im

doing something right because

I keep having repeat customers,

he muses.

There are two ways to go about

snagging a pair of B Street Shoes.Customers can go online, choose

a style they like and select their

size, and Barash will purchase the

shoes (usually Nikes, Vans, Toms

or Converse), paint them and ship

them off. The process for more custom jobs is

akin to working with a tattoo artistcustomers

discuss their ideas with Barash, they come up

with a design together and Barash and his team

go to work. The results can be just as personal as

a tattoo; common themes include cherished pets,

meaningful quotes and wedding dates. Every pair

of shoes is made to order, takes six to eight weeks

and starts at around $150 for custom artwork,

with prices rising from there.As an indie shoe customizer taking an artful

approach to footwear, Barash isnt alone. The

team of customizersa.k.a. the Flight Crewat

Cleveland, OH-based Proof Culture creates intri-

cate works of art on sneakers. Customers provide

the shoes and the inspiration, then consult with

the companys artists to dream up their design;

custom jobs start at around $400 and can go to

upwards of $800. Standouts on Proof Cultures

website include a pair of Nike Air Force Ones with a New York Yankees

motifcomplete with pinstripes and a wood-grain Swoosh mimicking a

baseball batand a pair of Jordans in unmistakable Tiffany blue.

BIG BUSINESS

Custom kicks are natural conversation-starters, and appropriately, thatsexactly how BucketFeet (which creates artist-designed footwear) got its start.

Company co-founders Aaron Firestein and Raaja Nemani met and became

friends while traveling in Argentina. Nemani had been admiring Firesteins

canvas shoes on which hed doodled original designs, so Firestein made his new

pal a pair. Nemani trekked across the globe in the shoes, and found they drew

attention wherever he went. So in 2011, the duo decided to go into business

together. This June, BucketFeet landed a fresh $3 million in venture capital,

bringing their total funding raised to $16 million.

Through BucketFeets open platf

any artist can submit to have their de

featured on a pair of shoes; Nemani

the brand gets several thousand sub

sions per year. Currently, BucketFeet w

with more than 20,000 artists of all k

(ranging from photographers to gr

pros) from 100 countries. While mo

these are up-and-comers, the brand ha

collaborated with prominent Chicago-b

artists like JC Rivera and Sentrock. Dr

awareness of new, emerging artists is in

DNA, Nemani asserts. Styles include a

palm pattern by Chicagos Jack Muldow

a peacock feather motif by Inkheart f

the UK and a gold foil grenade-pinea

print by Colombian artist DJ Lu. Whe

artists design is chosen, he or she rec

an upfront payment of $250 as well a

in royalties for each pair sold.

Cool collaborations are de rigueur for Vans; its l

partnership sees the classic lifestyle brand joining fo

with British design house Eley Kishimoto on a line of s

and apparel bearing the duos signature graphic prints.

create products that people can wear, ride, drive, drink f

live in and experience as part of our aesthetic narrasays designer Mark Eley. Our desire to cover everyt

and anything with the integrity of our personality atta

makes Vans a perfect canvas.

The brand also supports future artists through its Cu

Culture program, an an

competition in which

school students acros

country take their

shot at customizing

pairs of plain white V

based on the them

art, music, action sp

and local flavor. The

ning school gets $50

toward its art programthe chance to have

designs sold in stores.

year, 2,500 high sch

participated; the top

were flown to New

and judged by a pane

included musician Bea M

Nickelodeon star Vic

Justice, illustrator D

Clayton, surfer Joel Tudor and cake artist Amirah Kassem. One style b

winning school, Carlsbad High School, is slated to go on sale next April,

proceeds benefiting Americans for the Arts. This is using our product in

an authentic wayand a way that its been used forever, says Megan Kle

brand activation manager at Vans, explaining that the companys signa

checkerboard print was in fact inspired by kids personalizing their shoesmarkers. She adds that Custom Culture entries run the gamut, from pai

designs to sculptural 3D elements. Theres no formula for how to win

be as creative and imaginative as possible, she says.

Keds is another classic lifestyle brand providing a walking canvas fo

work of artists both amateur and professional. In the past, the company

nered with non-profit organization Artists For Humanity for a shoe bear

pattern created by youth artists in Boston, as well as conceptual artist J

Holzer for the KedsWhitney collection. (Proceeds for the latter benefite

A design by vlogger

Katy Bellotte for Keds.

Hand-

painted

Nikes from

B Street

Shoes.

Carlsbad High

Schools winning

designs from this

years Vans

Custom Culture

competition.


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Whitney Museum of American Art in New York.)

This summer, Keds will launch a nine-piece collec-

tion designed by a number of influential bloggers,

including Courtney Fowler of Color Me Courtney

and fashion illustrator Jamie Lee Reardin. I

love it when we can foster up-and-coming artists

and designers in such a direct way, says Holly

Curtis, Keds design director. Our Champion

Original provides the perfect stage to showcase

new points of view.

Artful footwear isnt limited to sneakers. To

celebrate 65 years of its iconic desert boot and

to raise money for The HALO Trust, a British charity dedicated to landmine

removal, Clarks recently commissioned 14 artists to create an original piece

of work and design a corresponding pair of boots for its Clarks: Rebooted

program. London-based painter Rene Gonzalez, whose work often celebrates

rappers, scientists and other contemporary heroes, depicted the members

of Wu-Tang Clan on a pair, while Bob and Roberta Smith (a.k.a. Patrick Brill)

translated his famous statement-making piece, Make Art Not War, which

resides at the Tate Modern, onto a bold colorblocked boot.

THE EXPRESSIONISTS

Millennials get a lot of flack for their special snowflake M.O. NPD Group

Sports Industry Analyst Matt Powell believes this generation, driven by the

lifestyle mantra, I want to be different, just like my friends, is driving the

customization trend across a wide range of consumer products. Artist-designedshoes seem to be a niche within this category, particularly the ones like Barash

designs. Whether a customer chooses an existing design or collaborates with

B Street Shoes on a more personalized motif, he or she can be sure that the

resulting pair is unlike any other on Earth. Individualism is valued more than

ever these days, says BucketFeets Nemani. We strive to provide products

that allow people to express thiswhether

want to stick out, fit in or just wear somet

that expresses how they feel. He notes that a

numerous industries, consumers are fin

uniqueness and authenticity more appealing

ubiquity and conformity and desiring prod

that arent mass-produced.

Shoe art also allows for a very partic

expression of tasteone thats more attain

to the average person than, say, a painting

sculpture, Klempa explains. If its street

you cant own the side of a building, but you

own a piece of footwear by an artist you idolize. It gives you that tangib

She adds that so-called wearable art links consumers and artists, givin

former a sense of belonging. By wearing a pair of Vans emblazoned with

of Eley Kishimotos prints, for instance, Its like Im a piece of their art

as well, she states.

Arguably, customization programs from major brands like Nike (with

ID) and Adidas (with Mi Adidas) are a testament to the trends timely cul

relevance. Everyones looking for a way to be unique and to stand out an

express who they are for the world to see, Klempa explains. Sneaker br

have figured out how to capitalize on the movementeffectively legitim

the whole custom sneaker approach, Dunne declares, adding that custom

tion in sneakers is hardly a new trend. Early collectors like Bobbito [Ga

were breathing new life into styles by hitting them with custom colors, D

notes. He cites San Antonio, TX-based Dank Customs and New Yorks RCustoms as examples of heavy hitters in this space.

Another aspect artist-designed shoes offer that isnt so easy for big br

to replicate is authenticitysomething else thats big with todays consu

People are drawn to products with a story attached, and moreover, they

tell when that story is legit (and when its not). Barash notes that while

Desert Wu boots by

Rene Gonzalez for

Clarks: Rebooted.

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VER THE PASTfew seasons, urban

influences have been permeating the

outdoor market. From New York to

Seattle, weve seen the rise of the Urban

Woodsman, the full y bearded, Paul

Bunyanesque alter ego of the typical

hipster in his plaid flannel shirt, skinny

jeans and beefy leather hiking boots.

Next came the Lumbersexuals, with a

more rugged take on the meticulously

manscaped look. And most recently,

we have the sportier MetroJack movement thats inspired more by modern

mountaineering than retro forestry school.

Whats the common thread running through these various motifs? Industry

experts point to younger, tech-savvier, more sophisticated consumers in rural,urban and suburban areas and their

growing desire to take it outside, so to

speak, through activities like hiking,

camping and mountain biking. An

increased interest in the great outdoors

is fueling the popularity of the products

and fashions involved in these pur-

suitsas is the obsession with looking

the part, even if one never sets foot on

a trail or spots a single firefly. In addi-

tion, todays consumersof all ages and

gendersincreasingly seek performance

versatility, such as waterproofing and

durability, as well as styling that can go

seamlessly from the asphalt jungles tooff-road. Technical yet wearable designs

are in step with the smart products

movement thats spreading across all

consumer categories.

It used to be all about function in

this world, but things have changed,

says Carl Blakeslee, creative director of

Woolrich Footwear and co-founder of its licensee, Portland Product W

He notes that everyone demands great design these days, whether shop

for a coffee maker, a climbing harness or a pair of shoes. Its forcing br

to focus more attention and resources on design and storytelling, Blak

says. Its not enough nowadays to come to the table with another light h

at a key price point. Brands must tell stories about who they are.

Merrell Creative Director Martin Dean and Global Marketing Director J

Mandor Glassman both note that although the movement has been buil

over the last decade, now more than ever the outdoors is a lifestyle and

just a destination for many consumers. These users are more likely to go

weekend camping trip or a day hike than to conquer an epic climb, and

want versatile products that take them from the trail to the streets at a mom

notice. Textile, color and prints play a bigger role not only in creating m

unique aesthetics, but also [in offering] more affordable performance solut

Dean says. The biggest shift, however, comes with cross-pollinating lookshybrid silhouettes that are just

home on the trail as they are in

city. It marks an about-face from

traditionally heavy, single-use h

of the past. The new buzzword

versatile, lightweight and sty

These young-at-heart adventu

range in age and location, bu

seek dynamic active experiences

betterment and social interact

Dean observes. This is a signifi

shift away from the outdoorsm

old and we believe it is a long-

shift for the category.

The outdoor category used entirely tech-driven, but as L

Grosser, VP of merchandisin

Rockport, puts it, Because o

evolution of apparel and consum

more active lifestyles, its critic

bring a more stylish, brown

interpretation to the category.

Outdoor Preview: Spring 2016

In an effort to build broader consumer appeal, outdoorbrands are blending trail-worthy designs and performance benefits

with metro style touches.By Judy Leand

URBAN

RENEWAL

Sorel


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basis. Now that there are so many fashionable crossover options available, we

are seeing occasional participants buying in much greater numbers.

While many experts say Millennial males account for the majority of con-

sumers in this category, its not exclusively a boys club. One company thatis particularly intent on embracing women is Sorel. According to Kimberly

Barta, senior global marketing director, the brands target consumer is the

style-conscious female whos looking for apparel and footwear that can help

her get the most out of life. We began to expand our womens line almost

seven years ago by introducing fashion-forward, all-weather styles while stay-

ing true to the brands history of protection, comfort, warmth, durability and

craftsmanship, Barta explains. Our womens collection has almost doubled

in terms of units in the past seven years.

The growth of womens hikingespecially day hikesis increasing rapidly,

says Thomsen of Adidas Outdoors. He adds that for this customer, Its about

being fit as well as being stylish, noting that it s similar to surfers who live

in the Midwest, miles from any ocean, but still want to live that lifestyle on a

daily basis. Today, the outdoor lifestyle is based on where youd like to be as

opposed to where you actually are, he says.

Along those lines, the outdoor-urban movement can be a boon for retail-

ers as there are more styles to choose from and a broader audience to tap. In

addition, Woolrichs Blakeslee believes it gives brick-and-mortar retailers in

particular an opportunity to reinvent the physical shopping space in order to

engage customers. He suggests using vintage furniture and accessories to help

bring these rich brand stories to life.

Rockports Grosser agrees, noting that these styles need to be merchandised

on their own in a separate environment. They need to be romanced. Features

and benefits need to be called out more than any other product because the

shoes cost more and consumers need to understand why theyre spending

more, she says, adding that it presents the opportunity for a broader spectrum

of retailers to partake in the category.

One such example is Brooklyn, NY-based sneaker boutique Kith. Victor

Kan, footwear buyer, is seeing a big response from young males ages 15 to 30

to this type of hybrid product. Last year sneaker/boot hybrids were big andthis year hiking styles will also pick up, he expects. People are getting tired

of athletic footwear. Bright pops of purples, yellows and blues on trail boots

are coming back. The new outdoor offerings look fresh on the shoe wall.

Matt Birko, business development manager of Brooklyn Camp Supply,

which launched an e-commerce site six months ago and is preparing to open

two stores in Brooklyn this summer, is high on the outdoor-urban crossover

trend as well. The outdoor world has always had a good look and is now being

adopted by fashion brands outside of the Lumbersexual thing, he offers. Were

seeing a high interest from younger customers, ages 18 to 30, especially in

brands they may never have heard of before. Birko reports strong influence is

coming from Europe and Asia, where theres a lot of passion for the outdoors.

Its a very diverse clientele and the more the trend gets popularized, the bigger

and better it will get, he predicts. Eventually, well see fast-fashion players

such as H&M and Zara pick up on this.

Change is good, and for Blakeslee, its high time for the outdoor marketto embrace a new, broader aesthetic. There was a time, not so long ago,

when the outdoor footwear wal l looked boringtoo many brands chasing

the same aesthetic, he says, citing the recent overabundance of minimalism

styles as one example. That has given way to more fashion-forward, stylish

products and fresh takes on heritage looks. Blaskeslee adds, It marks a shift

in thinking about what typical is for outdoor. Brands are innovating around

their heritage or around real problem-solving, and sometimes both, which is

pushing evolution and rethinking the norms.

Timberland

Jambu

Columbia

Outdoor Preview: Spring 2016

Rockport


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7676

Maguba woven detail clogs,

by BCBG MaxAzria, Clyde fel

Kristin Miller necklace. Opp

page: Fringe jacket by

necklace by Geograph


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Dolce Vita cross strap pla

clogs, Free People dress,

hat, Geography 541 bracele

earrings, necklaces by

Miller and Laurel Hil l Je

Opposite page: Five W

kiltie clogs, Free Peop

jean shorts by Zara, C lyd

necklaces by Mary Gallagh

Laurel Hill Je


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No. 6 peep-toe braided c

Zadig & Voltaire chambray

scarf by YSA NYC, neckla

Ayaka Nishi. Opposite page: F

embellished clog with b

closure, Musse & Cloud pla

clog, chambray top by Za

Voltaire, necklace by Ayaka


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MIA lug sole clogs, Free People top

and skirt, BCBG MaxAzria shawl,necklaces by Geography 541, Kate

Hewko and Biko. Opposite page:

metallic strappy clogs by Calou,top and pants by Free People, YSA

NYC scarf, Mary Gallagher necklace,cuff by Laurel Hill Jewelry.

Fashion Editor: Tara Anne Dalbow;stylist: Claudia Talamas; hair and

makeup: Sacha Harford/Next Artists;

model: Aspen/Red Model Management.


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Moroccan, monochromatic or minimalist, skimmy mules up theelegance quotient of breezy summer ensembles.

HEATHER WILLIAMS

D E S I G N E R C H A T

Mule It Over

chunky rubber sole construction. Its similar to asneaker, without being a sneaker, she says, not-

ing that uppers range from woven leather brogues

to strappy lace-up gladiators. Its that juxtaposi-

tion that really adds interest, she notes. Key col-

ors include graphic black and white, as well as

pops of acid green and orange. Think Pac-Man

colors, says Williams, who predicts an 80s redux

on the heels of the 70s craze of the past few sea-

sons. Though flats anchor the collection, Williams

includes a capsule collection of tough, edgy uppers

on spindly heel constructions.

Williams says the variety of her Spring 16 collec-

tion reflects current fashion in general. It used to

be that there was one trend and everyone did their

version of it, she says. But now stores are buying

so differently. Its much more [about filling differ-

ent] niches. Tara Anne Dalbow

In what ways is your love of architecture

reflected in your designs?In the early stages of

my company the upper patterns referenced iconic

architecture from New York. With the re-launch,

I applied architectural influences to wearable con-

structions: thicker geometric heel shapes, anglethe soles, hardware details and angular structu

shapes in the patterns.

If you could have been involved in the design

any New York landmark, which would it hav

been?The Brooklyn Bridge would have been

fascinating.

What part of the shoe design process do you

most rewarding?Its a great feeling when you

someone you dont know wearing your design,

ticularly when they have a really defined style a

point of view in how they dress.

If you could change one aspect about the ind

try what would it be?Following the financial c

lapse it takes longer to gain a retailers trust to b

into a new brand. Even when they love your pro

uct, many look to the same established brands

fill their open-to-buy. The market ends up sat-

urated with a lot of the same product. So I wish

more major retailers would invest in emerging

lines. It would help evolve and grow the industr

WHEN MOST PEOPLE look up

at a building they see just that, a

building, but not footwear designer

Heather Williams. She sees the mak-

ing of a structural stiletto heel or a

graphic pattern perfect for emboss-

ing in leather. The young designer,

whose resume includes graduating

from Rhode Island School of Designand stints at Tommy Hilfiger and Calvin

Klein, says footwear is the perfect blend of

her two passions: architecture and fashion.

Ive always loved building things, Williams

says. It was this desire to create that inspired

Williams to move to Milan and study at Ars

Sutoria, a technical footwear design school

located near Italys most prestigious shoe fac-

tories. I really immersed myself in produc-

tion, she says, and that pushed me to get my

own line going. Williams launched her epon-

ymous label, H Williams, in the fall of 2008

with an imaginative collection of over-the-

top dress shoes that were picked up by Dolce

& Gabbanas Spiga 2 and Saks Fifth Avenue.Despite the initial success, the ensuing finan-

cial collapse made maintaining an emerging

luxury brand next to impossible. So Williams

took a break and switched to consulting.

Fast-forward three years and Williams was

consulting for Donna Karan when one of the

designers factory partners made her an offer

she couldnt refuse: Partner with us to re-

launch your label. They could tell that I had

spent a lot of time in factories and under-

stood that side of production, she notes. H

Williams re-launched this spring with a col-

lection of fashion-forward shoes that are

comfortable, functional and urban. The H

Williams woman is in and out of the subway.

She also wants to stand out, but doesnt want

to look like shes trying too hard, she offers.

For Spring 16, Williams looked to her

Brooklyn neighborhood of Williamsburg for

inspiration, culling design motifs from the

surrounding industrial architecture, as well

as vintage military jackets and 80s-era video

games. Key styles are built on a patented

Dolce

Vita

Adrianna

Papell

Latigo

E D I T O R S P I C K S


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Lets fightbreast cancer.One step at a time.

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*Based upon suppliers representations of value. No sales may have been made at this price. A public service announcement. Show dates, times, offers, and availability subject to change without notice.

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FFANY SPECIAL PINKBENEFACTORS: NINE WEST GROUP, CALERES, CAMUTO GROUP & MARC FISHER FOOTWENINE WEST GROUP: ANNE KLEIN, BANDOLINO, EASY SPIRIT, ENZO ANGIOLINI, NINE WEST // CALERES: NATURALIZER, DR. SCHOLLS, LIFE STRIDE, RYK, SAM EDELMAN, FRANCO SARTOVIA SPIGA, DIANE VON FURSTENBERG, FERGIE FOOTWEAR, CARLOS BY CARLOS SANTANA // CAMUTO GROUP: VINCE CAMUTO, LOUISE ET CIE, JESSICA SIMPSON, BCBG MAXAZRIA, BCBGENERLUCKY BRAND // MARC FISHER FOOTWEAR: SIGERSON MORRISON, BELLE BY SIGERSON MORRISON, GUESS, ISAAC MIZRAHI, IVANKA TRUMP, MARC FISHER, TOMMY HILFIGER // BENEFACCHARLES DAVID LLC: CHARLES BY CHARLES DAVID / H.H. BROWN: BRN, HERITAGE, ISOL, KORK-EASE, SOFFT, SOFTSPOTS / NEW YORK TRANSIT INC.: ANN MARINO, NEW YORK TRANSIT, SPLFOOTWEAR / WILL-RICH SHOE COMPANY LLC: ADRIENNE VITTADINI // DOUBLE PLATINUM:DECKERS OUTDOOR: UGG AUSTRALIA / JIMLAR, A DIVISION OF LF USA: CALVIN KLEIN, COACH FOOTFRYE / MICHAEL KORS / WOLVERINE WORLD WIDE: CAT, CUSHE, HUSH PUPPIES, KEDS, MERRELL, SAUCONY, SPERRY TOP-SIDER, STRIDE RITE / YALEET: NAOT FOOTWEAR // PLATINUM:AEROCHINESE LAUNDRY / CLARKS / COLE HAAN / DANSKO / DEER STAGS PRIME / MATISSE / NOSOX / SAN ANTONIO SHOEMAKERS / TITAN INDUSTRIES / VIONIC WITH ORTHAHEEL / WHITE MOUSHOE OF THE DAY: VIDA SHOES: ANDR ASSOUS, ESPIRIT / BELLA VITA BY EASY STREET / BLOWFISH / CAPARROS CORPORATION / CORSO COMO / EARTH BRANDS / HIGHLINE UNITED / MIANINA / SEYCHELLES / SPRING STEP / YELLOW BOX // QVC.COM:CAPE CLOGS / COBB HILL BY NEW BALANCE / EASTLAND / IVANKA TRUMP KIDS / MICHAEL MICHAEL KORS KIDS / POLO KIDS / ST

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Spring

Awakening

SPRING 2KIDS PREVIE

Feeling FestiveThe popularity of music festivals has

forged a new category in fashionin

fact, this year, H&M teamed up withCoachella to offer a concert-ready

collection that was heavy on crochet

and tribal prints. Similarly, far-out

fringe, bright embroidery and globally

inspired boho patterns strike the right

note in warm-weather kids footwear.

Earthy, organic-looking materials and

pops of rainbow-bright hues are made

for endless summer adventures, even if

little ones wont be standing front row

at Bonnaroo.

S THE WORLD

wakes up from a

long winters nap

and springs to life

with color and

light, kids footwear design-ers take a tip from Mother

Nature, with a vibrant palette

of hues, a barrage of playful

prints and a lineup of go-

anywhere styles.

To spot top trends, look

to adult collections, says

Beth Clifton, a buyer for

online childrenswear retailer

Alex and Alexa, noting that

Spring 16 styles offer lots ofopportunities for mini me

ensembles. And sneakers

are still going strong; Clifton

points out that easy-to-wear

slip-ons in particular are not

only trend-right, but great

for kids on the go.

B Y K I R B Y S T I R L A N D

High AchieversWith sneakers accounting for the

majority of childrens online footwear

sales in the last year according to

data from the NPD Group, expect the

category to stay strong for Spring 16.

Sharon Blumberg of Chooze notes that

the hi-top silhouette in particular has

been hot in the European market and

is poised to hit it big stateside next

spring, offering that it adds a creative

edge to any outfit, from leggings to

shorts to dresses. Whether treated with

playful mismatched prints or perfo-

rated leather, hi-tops are comfortable

and versatile with just the right amount

of throwback cool.

Minnetonka

MIA

Chooze

See Kai R


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Sporting Chance

Gym-class inspired materials and colors, like mesh andneon, as well as gummy white or colored soles, are

playful, fashionable and right in step with the enduring

athleisure trend. Playful kicks are the perfect way to top

off activewear ensembles (like those ubiquitous jogger

pants, notes Yee).

Good Jeans

As American as apple pie, denim is a wardrobe staple for a reason, and fornext spring its making its way to footwear. In a range of washes, this time-

less textile will pop up on everything from casual shoes to special occasion

styles. Nicole Yee, childrenswear editor at style forecasting site Fashion

Snoops, says to keep an eye out for interesting textural treatments like

embroidery inspired by the traditional Japanese art of sashiko, which

offers extra visual interest.

Cienta

Nina

Pediped

Polo

Nine West

Kids

Elephantito

Shine OnMake way for metallicits

now very much a spring

thing as opposed to in the

past, when it was thought to

be just for fall/winter, says

Yee. She reports that super-

fine micro-glitter, rose gold

and metallic treatments of

a range of colors will be big

for Spring 16. Also keep an

eye out for iridescent mate-

rials, which are casting a

space-age shine on kids

styles. More subtle than glit-

ter but with more dimension

than typical gold or silver,

this holographic finish is eye-

catching on sandals and

sneakers.

Ja

L

Pediped

Making FacesCome face to face with a cast of creatures, from piglets to

peacocks, which adorn sweet Mary Janes, moccasins and baflats. Rob Buell, owner of Jack & Lily Footwear, says the bran

drew inspiration from childrens relationships with their favor

blankets and toys for its 3D character mocs. Our Tiger, Kitty

Bunny are so playful and fun that kids can think of them as p

pals. Yee expects this whimsical spin on the animal motif tre

to be big for spring, in addition to classic prints in unusual co

palettes (like leopard rendered in bright pink and purple).


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Snack PackLast spring, appetite-piquing patterns covered kids apparel and

dcor, and now there are quirky edible-themed prints on the foot

wear menu for next season. Kids designers raided the fridge for

inspiration, resulting in sneakers, boots and sandals emblazoned

tacos, hamburgers, cupcakes, bananas and cherries that will appeto even the pickiest tots. All kids love junk food, especially when

their parents dont let them eat it a lot, says Maddison Ek, produ

line manager for Vans Kids Classics.

The New NormalAfter the advent of Normcore brought a stripped-down aesthetic

to adult fashion, resulting in a surprisingly chic resurgence of

Birkenstocks, Tevas and Adidas slides, the look is making its way into

kids for next spring. The big trend towards casual and comfort in

adult footwear is impacting the way parents shop for their kids, attestsBlumberg. Yee predicts minimalist sneakers and sandals will be big,

noting, Footwear continues to be more gender-neutral. Think footbed

slides, spare leather sandals and

FootwearPlus August 2015

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Transcript of FootwearPlus August 2015