Fertile soils in transylvania county
Transcript of Fertile soils in transylvania county
TODAY’S CLASS:
How can I tell when fertilizer is needed?
1. Soil basics
2. How do I take a soil sample?
3. How do I read a soil test report?
4. What type of fertilizer should I
apply?
5. How much and when?
Will fertilizer fix this
problem?
IDEAL SOIL CHARACTERISTICS
Physical
• Holds water for plant growth• Drains well• Air for oxygen absorption
Biological
• Supports diverse population of microorganisms
Chemical
• Contains needed nutrients• Proper Ph Level
BALANCE OF AERATION AND MOISTURE
Solids
Water
Air
Solids
Water
Air
Solids
Water
Air
Ideal balance
Waterlogged soil
Compacted soil
TILTH
“The physical
condition, or
structure, of the
soil as it influences
plant growth”
•Porous- allows
good drainage.
•Permits roots to
grow
•Easy to work.
20-44% in animals
56% manure/urine
13-50% 8%
16-35%
Eriksen et al., (2002) and Williams et al., (2000)
HOW CAN I TELL WHEN
FERTILIZER IS NEEDED?
Is Fertilizer Plant Food?
• No! – plants make their
own food by
photosynthesis
What is fertilizer?
• Concentrated source of the
nutrients plants need to
produce their own food
Feed me Seymour!
HOW DO ROOTS ABSORB THE
NUTRIENTS IN FERTILIZERS?
Can roots ingest fertilizer pellets?
No – nutrients must be dissolved in water
Fertilizers need water to work
• This is why liquid fertilizers work so fast!
During drought plants cannot take up nutrients
ROOTS MUST BE
HEALTHY TO ABSORB
NUTRIENTS
Nutrient deficiencies can
be symptoms of soil and
root problems
•Must rule these out
Soil pH also affects roots
ability to take up nutrients
Iron deficiency due to high
soil pH
HOW PH AFFECTS
NUTRIENT
AVAILABILITY
•Width of horizontal bars represent how available nutrient is at different pH levels
•5.5 to 6.5 ideal for most plants
•Lime raises pH
•Difficult to lower pH –sulfur temporary, choose tolerant plants
3.5 4.0 4.5 5.0 5.5 6.0 6.5 7.0
Ideal for most plants
HOW CAN I TELL WHEN
FERTILIZER IS NEEDED?
Leaf symptoms
Lower leaves yellow and dropping = nitrogen deficiency
Lower leaves red/purple = phosphorous deficiency
Nitrogen deficiency on azalea
HOW CAN I TELL WHEN
FERTILIZER IS NEEDED?
Leaf symptoms
•Newer leaves pale,
micronutrient deficiency – most
likely iron
•Usually a pH or root health
issue
HOW CAN I TELL WHEN
FERTILIZER IS NEEDED?
Leaf symptoms
•Discoloration solid or between the veins, not in circular spots
•Distributed throughout the plant – not single branch or side
•Does not start on one side and spread to other side
POOR GROWTH?
Lack of nutrients not always the cause!
Many factors can cause poor growth – must determine what is really happening
• Root diseases or root damage
• Poor drainage
• Compacted soil
• Drought
• pH issuesWhich of our three samples do you think needs fertilizer?
Fertilizer only helps if lack of nutrients is the cause of poor growth!
• Determine through soil testing
Soil Testing = ONLY accurate way of knowing what nutrients your soil needs
Also find out pH and if changes need to be made
Do it yourself kits are extremely inaccurate!
How can I tell when
fertilizer is needed?
SOIL SAMPLING
Results are only as good as the sample!
Can be done anytime of the year
• Plan ahead: want to send samples off and get results BEFORE beginning project
Sample before any new project
Sample established areas every 2-4 years
• Every 2 years in sandy soils
• Wait 6-8 weeks after applying fertilizer or lime
HOW TO SOIL SAMPLE
Start with clean equipment
• Stainless steel soil probe, hand shovel, shovel
• Not brass, bronze or galvanized
• Clean plastic bucket
Decide where to sample
• Divide landscape into areas of unique use
AREAS OF UNIQUE USE:
SAMPLE DIFFERENT AREAS
SEPARATELY
Different plants/crops
Changes in plant health
Obvious changes in soil type (color, texture, topography)
5-10 random samples from each area, total of 1 ½ cups
HOW TO TAKE SOIL SAMPLES
Avoid thatch or mulch
Take a ‘slice’ of soil
Turf: 4” deep
Landscape beds, vegetables: 6” deep
Mix subsamples together to make one composite sample for each unique area
PACKAGING SOIL SAMPLES
•Boxes and forms available from any
Extension office
•Fill box to ‘fill’ level
•Soil can be moist but not so wet it
dissolves the box!
•Do NOT put soil in plastic bag!
•Do NOT tape box shut
Lime Recommendation
• pH level – gives number and shows where your pH is in comparison to target
range (based on soil type and what you intend to grow)
• Lime recommendation – for dolomitic or agricultural/garden lime, pounds per
1000 square feet
FERTILIZER
RECOMMENDATION
Nitrogen recommendation based totally on crop to be grown
• Standard for ornamentals and fruits/vegetables = 1lb of N per 1000 sq. ft. per year
• Multiply rate (# lbs) by Nitrogen % (first number), e.g. 7 x .15 = 1.05
• Turf recommendations = N based on type of turf
Fertilizer Recommendation
• Phosphorous and Potassium Index – between 50 and 70 is ideal, less than 50
will recommend fertilizer
• Fertilizer Recommendation – in pounds per 1000 square feet – Notice, only
Nitrogen is recommended but there is no N index
ADDITIONAL INFORMATION
• HM% - humic matter, not total organic matter
• W/V – Weight/Volume, over 1.0 usually sandy soil
• Mn, Zn, Cu, S indices – ideal range 50-70
CATION EXCHANGE
CAPACITY
CEC
• Measure of soil’s capacity to hold nutrients
• Increases as organic matter, pH, and clay content increase
• Sandy soils lower, eg. 2.0
• Organic/Clay soils higher, eg. 25
Organic matter increases
CEC
WHAT SOIL SAMPLING
CAN AND CAN NOT
TELL YOU
Can
• Nutrients your soil needs
to support healthy
growth
• Soil pH, if lime is needed
or not
• If pH or nutrient levels
are contributing to plant
problems
Can Not
• Why your plant died
• If diseases are present in
the soil
• If chemical residues are in
the soil
• If your soil has depth or
compaction issues
SOIL SAMPLING IN NC
Samples are analyzed by NC Dept. of Agriculture Soil Testing Lab in Raleigh
• NOT NCSU, NOT NC Cooperative Extension
No direct cost for NC residents April -November
• Peak season fee, $4/sample Dec – March
• Pay online
Results posted online – turnaround time depends on time of year
• Jan – April: 4 to 8 weeks +
• Summer, Fall: 1 to 3 weeks
SOIL SAMPLE FORMS
Fill in contact information (ink)
• Date, County, # Samples
Make up sample ID #
• Letters or numbers
• Something you will remember (veg, flower, shrub,
etc)
Crop codes listed on back of sheet
• Lawn and garden codes will give recommendations
in lbs. per 1000 sq. ft.
HOW DO I READ A
SOIL TEST REPORT?
Available online:
http://www.ncagr.gov/agronomi/pals/
Search by last name only!
Does not work with Firefox web browser
Macronutrients
Air & Water Primary Secondary
Carbon (C) Nitrogen (N) Calcium (Ca)
Hydrogen (H) Phosphorus (P) Magnesium (Mg)
Oxygen (O) Potassium (K) Sulfur (S)
Plants need these in large quantities
Plant Nutrition:
Micronutrients
• Iron (Fe)
• Manganese (Mn)
• Copper (Cu)
• Zinc (Zn)
• Boron (B)
• Molybdenum (Mo)
• Chlorine (Cl)
Micronutrients are just as
essential as
Macronutrients,
But are needed in smaller
amounts.
All nutrients must be dissolved in
water for plants to take up!
NITROGEN 10-5-15
Promotes green, leafy growth
Most limiting nutrient
• Most common deficiency
Most forms easily leach from soil, especially sand
• Pollute surface and groundwater
Mobile in plants
• Deficiency shows up in older leaves first
• Stunted growth, yellow leaves
N
NITROGEN 10-5-15
Too much burns plants
Too much increases pest problems
• Especially aphids, scale, and mealybug
Too much reduces vegetable yields
• Especially in beans, tomatoes, cucumbers, squash, peppers
N
PHOSPHOROUS 10-5-15
Promotes root growth, flower, fruit
and seed production
Held tightly by soil – leaching rare
Causes pollution when soil erodes
• P attached to soil particles
Needs to be incorporated
Frequently fertilized soils
probably have too much
• Most home gardens
P
PHOSPHOROUS 10-5-15
Mobile in plants
Deficiency
• Reduced growth
• Plants dark green
• Purple or reddish color to older leaves
Not taken up as well in cold or wet soils
• Deficiency symptoms in winter usually due to cold weather rather than lack of nutrient in soil
P
POTASSIUM 10-5-15
Plant health tonic!
• Increases drought tolerance, disease resistance and improves winter hardiness
Improves flavor in melons and tomatoes
Can leach, especially in sand
• Many coastal plain soils low
Sometimes called potash
Deficiency symptoms (mobile):
• Reduced growth
• Chlorosis and burning of leaf margins – older leaves
• Necrotic spots on older leaves
K
WHAT TYPE OF FERTILIZER
SHOULD I APPLY?
YOU KNOW WHAT NUTRIENTS
YOU NEED, NOW HOW ARE
YOU GOING TO APPLY THEM?
FERTILIZERS:
LOTS OF CHOICES!
Synthetic
• Manmade
• More predictable, higher analysis
• More likely to leach, burn
Natural
• Often low analysis, slow to release
• Condition the soil – feed microbes
• Expensive if only source of nutrients
• Do not release well in cold weather
FERTILIZER CHOICES
Slow Release - insoluble
• Resin or Sulfur coated or Natural
• Plants use more efficiently, available over longer time, less leaching
• Usually more expensive
Quick Release - soluble
• Dissolves rapidly
• Granular or blue crystals
• Anything plant does not use leaches
• More likely to burn, especially if high analysis, N over 10%
SLOW RELEASE FERTILIZERS
Slow release - Excellent for sandy soils unless need nutrients immediately
Coated (synthetic resin or sulfur), 0-12 month
• Osmocote and other brands
• Sulfur Coated Urea – acidifying
• Don’t apply after mid-July on trees and shrubs
Natural
• Organic or mineral
• Usually low analysis, e.g. 4-3-4
Quick-Release Fertilizers
• Supply Water-Soluble Nitrogen (WSN)
• Granular (10-10-10) and Liquid fertilizers
• Available for immediate plant uptake
• Less expensive than controlled-release
fertilizers
• May be leached from root zone - pollution
• High salt index – more likely to burn plants
and microbes!
• Often lowers soil pH
MORE FERTILIZERS
Liquid Fertilizers (blue crystals)
• Dissolve in water
• For a quick boost (fast food)
• No sustained release!
Special Purpose
• Eg. Tomato fertilizer, Camellia Fertilizer
• Marketing trick!! Often more expensive
• Acid lovers – contain Ammonium N and sulfur
• With micronutrients – what about pH?
Spikes and Pellets
• Hard for roots to access and absorb
WHICH FERTILIZER?
Slow release best, especially in sandy soils
Organic fertilizers encourage beneficial microbes
Liquid fertilizers useful when need a quick boost and when setting out transplants, but not for sustained feeding
Do you always need to fertilize?
If your plants look
healthy and are growing
at a good rate you do not
need to fertilize
WHEN SHOULD I FERTILIZE?
When plants are growing!
If P levels low, incorporate into soil
Ornamentals (trees, shrubs, perennials)
• March
• No later than August
• Do not apply high Nitrogen at planting time
WHEN TO FERTILIZE
Annual flowers, container plants
• When planted, slow release
• May need second application mid
summer
• Use liquid fertilizer for a quick
boost
Lawns
• Depends on turf type
• No earlier than April, no later than
August
WHEN TO FERTILIZE
Vegetables
• At planting time, slow release
• If using granular will require reapplication (sidedressing)
• Liquid feed for a quick boost
Fruits
• Annually, usually March
HOW MUCH DO I APPLY?
If do not have soil test report or wish to use
different fertilizer, must calculate rate
Numbers on bag represent % of N-P-K in
that fertilizer (always in that order)
100 lbs of 16-4-8 = 16lbs N, 4lbs P, 8lbs K
Application rate usually based on N, to
apply 1 lb. of actual N per 1000 sq. ft.
N is first number!
HOW MUCH DO I APPLY?
To figure out how much of any fertilizer to
apply per 1000 sq. ft. to give 1 lb. of actual
N, divide first number on the bag into 100
• Eg. for 10-5-10, 100/10 = 10 lbs.
• For 20-10-15, 100/20 = 5 lbs
• For 40-0-0, 100/40 = 2.5 lbs
1 lb. of fertilizer equals
• 2 cups 10-10-10 (granular)
• 3 cups organic (eg. Plant Tone)
• 1 ¾ cup Osmocote (time release)
HOW MUCH?
Always given on a per 1000 sq. ft. basis
Must calculate size of area fertilizing
Length x Width
If less than 1000 sq. ft., reduce amount accordingly
• 500 sq. ft. – apply ½
• 100 sq. ft. – apply 1/10
• 2000 sq. ft. – requires 2x
OVER
FERTILIZATION
Burn plant roots and tissues
Pollute ground and surface waters (N&P)
Increase insect and disease problems (N)
Cause blossoms or fruits to shed (N)
Favor leaf growth over flowers (N)
LET’S TAKE A LOOK AT SOME
POPULAR FERTILIZERS
What nutrients do they contain?
Based on nutrients, what should they be good for?
Slow or Quick release? High analysis?
Advantages/Disadvantages
How much would you need to put out to apply 1 lb. of actual
N per 1000/sq.ft.?
How many cups for 100 sq. ft.
MIRACLE GROW
ALL PURPOSE PLANT
FOOD
24-8-16
Lots of N! Plenty of K!
Quick release, high analysis
Quick boost of growth
No sustained feeding
Easy to over feed
Mix according to directions
ESPOMA PLANT-TONE
5-3-3
Low analysis, some of everything, general feeding
Slow release – organic
Sustained feeding, good for microbes
Not a ‘quick fix’
20 lbs./1000 sq. ft.
60 cups! Or 6 cups per 100 sq. ft., ½ cup per shrub
SCOTT’S SOUTHERN
TURF BUILDER
•32-0-10
•Lots of N – new growth, no
P, some K
•Some of N in slow release
form
•Sustained feeding but too
much N!
•3 lb. per 1000 sq.ft. = 6 cups
TRIPLE SUPER PHOSPHATE
0-45-0
Only P
Promotes root growth, flower and fruit production
Should only apply if soil test results indicate P is low!
Best if incorporated – very slow acting when surface applied
YOUR TURN!
The average compost contains less than 1% of any one
nutrient!
• 0.5-0.5-0.5
• Would need 200 lbs. per 1000 sq. ft!!!
Poultry litter averages around 4-4-2
• Would need 25 lbs. per 1000 sq. ft. to supply 1 lb. of N
For Comparison:
WORKING WITH SOIL IS HARD,
DON’T HURT YOURSELF!
The Garden Warm up!
TRANSYLVANIA COUNTY GIS
SYSTEM CAN BE HELPFUL
Give it a try!