1. TEXTILEA Textile was originally a woven fabric but now the term textile and itsplural textiles are also applied to fibers, filaments, yarn and mostproducts for which these are a principle raw material. The productincludes threads, cords, ropes, braids woven, knitted, non-woven fabrics,nets, household textile, geo-textile, medical textiles etc.WEAVINGWeaving is the action of producing fabric by the interlacing of warp andweft thread. The warp threads are placed along the length of the fabricand the weft threads are placed along the width of the fabric.Example of Different Textile-Geo-Textile: EmbankmentMedical Textile: Non-alginate fabric, Bandage tape etc.Non-woven Fabric: Tea bag, Tissue paper.House Hold Textile: Curtain, Cover of soffa set.Southeast University Department of Textile Engineering1

2. FLOW CHART OF WEAVINGYarn(In the form of spinners package)Warp Preparation Weft PreparationWinding (cone, cheese) Winding (Cop, Pirn,Cone, Cheese)Warping (Pre beam/ Warpersbeam/ back beam) Weaving (Fabric)Sizing (weavers beam)Drafting, Drawing, PinningDenting, LoomingWeaving (Fabric)Three types of yarn package are mention bellowCone Flange bobbin CheeseSoutheast University Department of Textile Engineering2 3. TYPES OF FABRICS1. Woven fabric (Shirt)2. Knitted fabric (T-shirt)3. Non-woven fabric (Tea pack)4. Special fabric (Fire proof fabric, water proof fabric)OBJECTS OF YARN PREPARATIONYarn preparation is important to facilitate the next processes of weaving.The objects of yarn preparation are mentioned bellow: To remove yarn faults ( there are 23 types of yarn faults) To transfer the yarn from spinners package to a convenient form ofpackage which will facilitate weaving. To have desired length of yarn on a package. To clean the yarn for better appearance and performance. To make good quality fabric. To reduce labour cost.FAULTS TO BE REMOVED DURING YARN-PREPARATION1. Thick place2. Thin place3. Slubs Place4. Loose fibers5. Count variationSoutheast University Department of Textile Engineering3IntentionalUnintentional 4. 6. Foreign particles (seed, leaf, dust, bollworm, honeydew)7. NepsQUALITY OF GOOD WARPThe essential features of good warp is mentioned bellow- The yarn must be uniform, clean and free from knots as much aspossible. The yarn must be sufficiently strong with withstand the stress andfriction without end breakage. Knots should be a standard size and type. So that they can pass theheald eye, dropper, read easily. The warp must be uniformly sized and size coating should be thickenough to protect the yarn various function. The ends of warp must be parallel and each must be wound onto aweavers beam at an even and equal tension. All warp yarn should of same size in length.Southeast University Department of Textile Engineering4 5. TYPES OF PACKAGE Cone (for warp yarn) Cheese (for warp yarn) Spool (for silk, jute warp yarn) Flanged bobbin (for warp yarn) Cop (for jute weft) Pirn (for cotton weft) Spinner packageTYPES OF PACKAGE WINDINGThere are three types of package winding available.1. Parallel wound package2. Near parallel wound package3. Cross wound package1. Parallel Wound Package Featuresa) Many yarn can be wound at a time.b) No need of traversing motion.c) Side withdrawal is possible.d) The density of yarn is more.e) No change of twist/inch.Southeast University Department of Textile Engineering5PACKAGE 6. f) For yarn unwinding separate mechanism is needed.g) Two side of the package needed flanged.2. Near Parallel Wound Package Featuresa) No need flange here.b) Both side and overend withdrawal is possible.c) Twist/inch can be changed.d) Traversing motion is needed.3. Cross-Wound Package Featuresa) Here no flange is required.b) Traversing mechanism is must.c) Twist/inch changes.d) Only overend withdrawal is possible.e) Yarn ballooning occurs during unwinding.f) This package is very stable.Southeast University Department of Textile Engineering6 7. TYPES OF PACKAGE DRIVINGThere are three types of package driving system.A. surface contact driving (indirect system)B. direct driving at constant angular speedC. Direct Driving At Variable Angular SpeedA. SURFACE CONTACT DRIVING (INDIRECT SYSTEM)In this system, the yarn package is placed with a surface contact of adrum. The drum is driven by a motor and some gear. When it rotates thepackage also rotate is reverse direction.Southeast University Department of Textile Engineering7PACKAGE DRIVING 8. B. DIRECT DRIVING AT CONSTANT ANGULAR SPEEDIn this system, the package is placed on a spindle. The spindle is drivenby a motor and some gears. So the package gets a constant angularspeed. Here yarn take up rate is directly proportional to the package dia.C. DIRECT DRIVING AT VARIABLE ANGULAR SPEEDIn this system, yarn package is directly driven at a variable angular speedto give a constant yarn speed. Here the package speed is inverselyproportional to the package radius,I.e. Package speedSoutheast University Department of Textile Engineering81Package radius 9. The appearance of the curved path of running yarn during unwinding oroverend withdrawl from package under appropriate winding conditionthrough a guide, placed above and in line with the axis of the package atan adequate distance from it, the yarn assumes the appearance of aballoon shape. This circumstance of assuming balloon shape of yarn iscalled ballooning.Southeast University Department of Textile Engineering9BALLOONING 10. FACTORS EFFECTING THE SHAPE AND SIZE OF BALLOON Package size Ballooning Yarn guide distance Ballooning Lift the package Ballooning Count of yarn Ballooning Air resistance Ballooning Unwinding rate. BallooningThe unwinding process of yarn from package is called yarn withdrawal.There are two types of yarn withdrawal system:1. Side Withdrawal2. Overend Withdrawal1) Side WithdrawalThe features of side withdrawl of yarn are given bellow;a) Package will rotate in side withdrawal.b) Yarn twist will be unchanged.c) No formation of balloon occurs.d) It is applied to flanged bobbin.e) The rate and speed of unwinding is slow.Southeast University Department of Textile Engineering10YARN WITHDRAWAL OR UNWINDING 11. 2) Overend WithdrawalThe features of overend withdrawl are given bellow;a) Package remains stationary during unwinding.b) Formation of balloon occurs.c) Twist/inch of yarn changed.d) Generally cop, pirn, cone, chess are packages used for overendwithdrawl.e) The rate of unwinding is high.In winding and unwinding some small component control yarn path whichis very necessary, yarn guide is used to perform this job.TYPES OF YARN GUIDEThere are two types of yarn guidea) Yarn Guide For The Yarn Whose Ends Are Required ForThreading;Southeast University Department of Textile Engineering11YARN GUIDE 12. For this type of yarn guide extra time is needed for threading. So speed ofoperation is decreased. The yarn which passes through this guide facesmore friction.Like Ceramic, Tumpet, Bustb) Yarn Guide For The Yarn Whose Ends Are Not Required ForThreading;Here threading is very easy. So the speed of the operation is high. Yarnpasses through this guide faces less friction.During winding, we have to impart proper tension to yarn, so that we canget a stable and undamaged package. So we pass the yarn through adevice called tension device.Types of Tension DeviceThere are four types of tension device as follow;a) Capstan Tensioner.Southeast University Department of Textile Engineering12Figure: Yarn GuideTENSION DEVICE 13. b) Additive Tensioner.c) Combined Tensioner.d) Automatic Tensioner.A. CAPSTAN TENSIONERIt is the simplest type of yarn tensioner. It works only by deflecting theyarn around fixed posts. This includes a capstan effect on yarn. It worksby the following formula:Output Tension = Input Tension eor, T2 = T1 eWhere,T2 = Output tension.T1 = Input tension.e = Constant tension = 2.78 = Co-efficient of friction. = 1+2+3 = Angle of lap.B. ADDITIVE TENSIONERThis is also a simple technique of applying tension on yarn. In this devicea dead weight or spring is used in the middle of the two surfaces inSoutheast University Department of Textile Engineering13 14. contact and the force is applied to give suitable tension to the yarn.Hence the output tension is expressed by,T2 = T1 + 2FWhere,T1 = Input tension.T2 = Output tension. = Co-efficient of friction.F = Applied force.C. COMBINED TENSIONERIt is the combined form of additive and capstan tensioner. The devicepermits the tension level to be raised to any desired level, but doesntpermit a reduction of tension. Here output tension is expressed as follow:T2 = T1 + 2F + T1 eWhere,T1 = Input tension.T2 = Output tension. = Co-efficient of friction.F = Applied force. = Angle of lap.D. AUTOMATIC TENSIONERIt is a simple tensioner in which yarn tension is controlled automatically.It has a lever with spring loaded disc in one side and applied load inSoutheast University Department of Textile Engineering14 15. another side. The device is designed in such a way that if applied tensionis too high. The pressure on disc is reduced to bring the tension back toits proper level.There are some effects of tension to the yarn or package: They area) If tension is too high.Southeast University Department of Textile Engineering15EFFECT OF TENSIONING 16. b) If tension is too low.c) If tension varies.a) If Tension is Too High Hard package. Breakage rate increases. Elongation of yarn Shade variation. Weak the thin place.c) If Tension Varies Problem during unwinding. Package unstable. Irregularity among yarn.Auxiliary Function in Winding Creeling. Piecing. Doffing.CHOICE OF TENSIONING DEVICE It must be reliable. It must be easily threaded. It must neither introduce nor magnify tension variation. It must not change the twist of yarn. It must not be affected by wear. It must be easily adjustable. It must not be affected by the presence of oil and dirt. It must not encourage the collection of dirt and lint. It must be easy cleaning. The operating surface must be smooth.Southeast University Department of Textile Engineering16b) If Tension is Too Low Loose package. Unstable package. Slough off. 17. It must be cheap. It must not cause any type of damage to yarn i.e. shade variation,elongation yarn breakage.PRECISION WINDING FEATURES Packages are wound with reciprocating traverse. Package contains more yarn. Low stability of package. Hard and more compact package. Low unwinding rate. The wound coils are arranged parallely or near parallely.FEATURES OF NON-PRECESSION WINDING Coils are cross wound. Package is of low density. Less amount of yarn is stored in package. High stability of package can be obtained. Flange is not necessary. Unwinding rate is very high.Difference between Precession and Non-Precession WindingPrecession winding Non-Precession winding1. The wound coil arranged parallelor near parallel.1. The coil is cross wise wound.2. The yarn density of the packageis high.2. The yarn density of a package islow.3. Flanged bobbin may be used. 3. Not use of flanged.4. The yarn package is hard andmore compact.4. The yarn package is soft and lesscompact.5. Low stability of the package. 5. High stability of the package.6. Winding angle is 90 or near 90 6. Winding angle is less than 807. The bobbin is wound with one ormore threads7. The bobbin is wound with singlethread.Southeast University Department of Textile Engineering17WINDING 18. 8. Yarn tension is comparativelyhigh.8. Yarn tension is comparatively low9. Unwinding rate is low. 9. Unwinding rate is high.MATH-1Calculate the time required to wind 500 lbs of 24 Ne cotton yarn on 15drums, where the actual production per drum per minute is 560 yds.GivenProduction= 560yd/min/drum, 24 Ne, yarn= 500lb, time=?Solution24 Ne means,1 lb. of yarn contains = 24X840 yds. yarn500 lbs. of yarn contains = (24X840X500) yds. yarn560 yds. of yarn to wind in 1 drum needs =1 min1 yd. 15 drum =1/ (560X15) min.(24X840X500) yd 15 drum = (24X840X500) / (560X15) min.=1200 min.=20 hr.(ans.)Math-2Calculate the drum required to wind 900 lbs of 25 Ne cotton during thetime 28 hrs, where the actual production per drum per minute is 600ydsGiven,Production=600yd/min/drum25 Ne, Yarn=900 lbs, time=28 hr., Find number of drum.Solution25 Ne of yarns means,1 lb of yarn contains = 25X840 yd yarns.500 lb of yarn contains =(25X840X900) yd yarns.600 yds. of yarn to wind in 1 min in = 1 drum1 yd (60X28) min in = 1 / (600X60X28) drum.Southeast University Department of Textile Engineering18 19. (25X840X900) yds. (60X28) min = (25X840X900) / (600X28X600)drum= 18.75 drum= 19 drum (ans.)Winding is a part of total number of ends of a warp in full width on to aback beam from cone or cheese is known as warping.OBJECTS OF WARPING To prepare a beam to make a fabric. To increase the wave ability of fabric. To make a convenient yarn sheet for sizing. To wound up required length of yarn onto a warp beam. To facilate the weaving of complex color pattern. To make reusable small packagesREQUIREMENT OF WARPINGDuring warping the following requirements should be fulfilled.1. The tension of all wound end must be uniform and possibly constantthroughout the withdrwal process.2. Warping should not impair the physical and mechanical properties ofyarn.3. The surface of warping package must be cylindrical.4. A pre-determined length of yarn should be wound on beam from everypackage.5. The production rate of warping should be as high as possible.6. If possible, yarn faults should be removed.TYPES OF WARPINGMainly there are two types of warping,a) Direct/ high speed warpingb) Sectional warping.Southeast University Department of Textile Engineering19WARPIN 20. Some Other Special Types of Warping Are Availablea) Ball warpingb) Chain warpingc) Cross warpingA. SECTIONAL WARPINGSectional warping is a process of preparing warp beam over two stages.In first stage yarns are wound in narrow tapes on a large drum. Then inthe second stage the rewinding of the warp onto a beam is performed.This process is slow but suitable for complex color pattern.B. DIRECT/HIGH SPEED WARPINGHigh speed warping is a process of preparing warp beam directly fromyarn package. Here all the yarns are wound on a simple flange beam at atime. This process is suitable for single color pattern.FEATURES OF SECTIONAL WARPING Sectional warping is suitable for producing color fabrics with differentpattern. Production is less in sectional warping. So it is a costly process. In sectional warping, tension cannot be kept uniform. Here tapered drum is used as drum. Hand weaving is necessary to produce sample fabric for bulkproduction.FEATURES OF HIGH SPEED WARPING High speed warping is suitable for producing fabric with same countand same color yarn. Higher amount of yarn is required here. The speed and production of a high speed warping is very high. Here simple flanged bobbin is used as beam.Southeast University Department of Textile Engineering20 21. Difference between Sectional Warping and High Speed WarpingHigh Speed Warping Sectional Warping1. Used to produce common fabric. 1. Used to produce fancy fabrics.2. Production is high. 2. Production is low.3. Large amount of yarn is required. 3. Small amount of yarn is required.4. Weavers beam is produced after4. Weavers beam is directlysizing.produced.5. Cone and Cheese is used. 5. Flanged bobbin or drum is used.6. The process is cheap. 6. The process is expensive.7. High creel capacity. 7. Low creel capacity.8. Most commonly use. 8. Rarely used.Control System in Warping Tension control Balloon control Stop motion Yarn cleanerSoutheast University Department of Textile Engineering21Faults in Warping Off center warp Reged or uneven warp Cross end Snarl formation Hard/soft beam End missing 22. Length control Surface speed control Proper yarn density Static electricity Traverse control Fly controlDescription of Different Control Systems in Warping1. Tension Control: Tension should not be low or high during warping.Because due to lower tension package will be unstable, entangled andsnarling will occur. Whereas high tension will cause yarn breakage. Thetension should be just and uniform throughout the process.2. Balloon Control: Balloon controlling is necessary so that the yarnsdoes not entangled with one another. For this, yarn guides should beplaced at right positions.3. Stop Motion: The m/c should stop itself if any yarn breakage occursat any point. So stop motion system is necessary to control.4. Yarn Cleaner: Proper setting should be maintained to remove yarnfaults.5. Length Control: the Length of warp sheet should be controlled. It isdone with a measuring roller in combination with a suitable countingdevice by stopping the device machine after winding pre-determinedlength of warp yarn onto the beam.6. Surface Speed: The surface speed of beam should be controlledspecially when a large change in warp diameter is involved.Southeast University Department of Textile Engineering22 23. 7. Proper Yarn Density: In warp sheet the yarn ends/inch, means yarndensity, is to be controlled. Because without proper yarn density thefabric will be uneven.8. Static Electricity: It is specially required in case of man-made fibres.It is controlled to avoid yarn entanglement. It is done by:i. Chemical fiber finishesii. Ionization of air.iii. Humidification of air.9. Traverse Control: In sectional warping traverse rate of beam shouldbe controlled.10. Fly Control: In staple fibres lints, small trashes may cause problemby flying around the working area. So this fly should be controlled to havea pleasant working atmosphere.Description of Different Faults in Warping and Their Remedies:1. Off Centre Warp: If beam or wraith is not set properly i.e. it is notcentric due to carelessness this type of fault occurs.Remedy: Beam or wraith should be placed proper2. Rigid or Uneven Warp Surface: This may occur ifi. Yarn density [ends/inch] is very low.ii. Different counts of yarns is wound on beam/iii. Yarn density is uneven.Remedy: yarn density and count should be maintained properly.3. Cross Ends: If occurs due to faulty knotting after end breakage.(Joining broken end with wrong end)Remedy: Knotting and tension should be done carefully.4. Snarl Formation: Snarl form due to over tension, highly twisted yarnand careless operation.Remedy: Tension should be kept proper and yarn twist should be asrequired.5. Hard/Soft Beam: If during winding yarn on being yarn tension is lowor high soft and hard beam forms. It may also occur due to unevenpressure on drum or beam.Southeast University Department of Textile Engineering23 24. Remedy: Tension and pressure should be maintained even.6. End Missing: If yarn breakage occurs m/c should be stoppedimmediately. If such cannot be done the broken end of yarn cannot befound out. This is end missing problem.Remedy: Stop motion system should be very active and m/c should bestopped immediately after end breakage.7. Haphazard Knotting: if various length of yarn is wound in creelpackages then during beaming different end will finished in different time.So knotting would be in various places of the warp. This will haphazardknotting.Remedy: In creel packages same length of yarns should be present sothat all yarn finish at a certain place of warp.8. Length Variation: It may occur due to fault stop motion. It means ifthe stop motion system stops the m/c before winding required length ofyarn on beam length variation occurs.Remedy: Stop motion should be checked carefully.Let, s = traverse length.L = Axis at length of warp on drum.d = empty beam dia.D = full beam dia.dm = = mean dia.X = tape distance = taper anglev = volume of yarn stored on beam.Let,Southeast University Department of Textile Engineering24Relation between Taper Angle and Amount of Yarn on a Beam 25. s >x, so as to maintain stability.V = - = ( - ) = (D+d) (D-d) = L ( ) ( )From figure, we can see that,dm = , mean dia and = x tan So , V = L dm (x tan )or, V > L dm (S tan ) if, x > sor, V < L dm (S tan ) if, x < sSo, V S tan if = 90 then V = s tan 90= So unlimited amount of yarns can be wound if flange stays perpendicularto beam barrel. Practically this is impossible. But this type of packagepermits to wind high amount of yarn.The method of applying a gelatinous film forming substance of starch onwarp yarn before weaving is known as sizing.Object of Sizing To protect the yarn from abrasion with heald eye, back rest, reed etc.during weaving. To improve breaking strength of cellulosic yarn. To increase yarn smoothness. To reduce yarn hairness. To increase yarn elasticity and stiffness. To decrease yarn extensibility. To hinder generation of static electricity for synthetic and blendedyarn. To increase yarn weight.Sizing Ingredients and Their FunctionsSome important size ingradients and their functions are mentioned below-Southeast University Department of Textile Engineering2524D + d2D - d2SIZING 26. 1. Adhesive2. Lubricants or softeners3. Antiseptic or antimildew agent4. Deliquescent or Hygroscopic agent5. Weighting agent6. Anti-foaming agent7. Tinting agent8. Wetting agent1. ADHESIVEAdhesives are mixed with water in granular form and heated to form apaste which ultimately becomes a viscous fluid. The followings do asadhesives in a size: Maize, corn, wheat, rice, potato starch. CMC (carboxyl methyl cellulose). PVA (poly vinyl alcohol). PVC (poly vinyl chloride).The functions of adhesives are as follows; To increase yarn strength. To reduce yarn hairiness. To increase elasticity and stiffness. To increase smoothness.2. LUBRICANTS OR SOFTENERSMineral waxex, vegetable waxes, animal fats; mineral oils, vegetable oils,tallow, Japan wax etc. are used as lubricants or softeners.FunctionSoutheast University Department of Textile Engineering26 27. If softeners are not present in sizes the yarns will not be sufficientlyextensible. Then the size would crack and particles would drop away fromthe yarn .And this, in turn, would create local stress concentration.3. ANTISEPTIC OR ANTIMILDEW AGENTZnCl, phenol, carboxylic acid, salicylic acid are used as antiseptic orantimildew agent.Functioni. It helps to store the sized yarn protect it from bacteria and fungi.ii. It prevents the growth of mildew on yarn during storage.4. DELIQUESCENT OR HYGROSCOPIC AGENTHygroscopic agents present in size absorb moisture from air glycerin,CaCl are some deliquescent agent.Functiona) To prevent the brittleness of size.b) To absorb moisture from air.c) To prevent excessive dyeing of yarn.5. WEIGHTING AGENTChina clay, CaCO, Na, PO, France chal etc. are used as weightingagent. These are to be used specially for those fabrics that are to be solidin grey state.Functiona) To increase the weight of yarn hen fabric.b) To impart fullness and feel to fabric.Southeast University Department of Textile Engineering27 28. 6. ANTI-FOAMING AGENTPyridine, benzene etc.as used as anti-foaming agent.Function: To prevent the formation foam7. TINTING AGENTBlue is used as tinting agent.Function:a) To increase luster or brightness.b) To produce a pale color in dyeing.8. WETTING AGENTSulphanol A, soap, avirol, MgCl2 etc. are used as wetting agent in a size.Their drawbacks are their high and very stable foaming ability.Function:a) To ensure the uniform distribution of the sizing solution on yarnsurface.b) Reduce surface tension of the liquor.c) Increase size absorbency.TECHNOLOGICAL CHANGES OCCURE DUE TO SIZINGThe following technological changes of a yarn/fabric occurs due to sizing 1. INCREASE IN BREAKING STRENGTH2. INCREASE ABRASION RESISTANCE3. INCREASE IN STIFFNESS4. INCREASE IN ELASTICITY5. INCREASE IN FRICTIONAL RISISTANCE6. INCREASE IN YARN DIAMETER7. DECREASE IN YARN HAIRINESS8. DECREASE IN STATIC ELECTRICITY FORMATIONDESCRIPTION1. INCREASE IN BREAKING STRENGTHSoutheast University Department of Textile Engineering28 29. During sizing adhesive materials create bonds between fibers to fiberwhich, as a result, increase the breaking strength of the yarn. It increases20-40% breaking strength of the fiber.2. INCREASE ABRASION RESISTANCEAfter sizing the gap between fibers are filled with size due to the coatingof size on the outer surface of the yarn. So their resistance againstabrasion is increased.3. INCREASE IN STIFFNESSAfter sizing flexibility or pliability of a yarn is decreased and stiffness isincreased.4. INCREASE IN ELASTICITYAs extensibility of the sized yarn decreases, more force is to be appliedto extend the yarn. This is means, elasticity of the yarn increases.5. INCREASE IN FRICTIONAL RISISTANCESizing produces smooth yarn surface and so less friction occurs.Again size coating increases the frictional resistance of yarn6. INCREASE IN YARN DIAMETERDue to coating of size ingredients the yarn diameter increase but yarnsapparent diameter is decreased.7. DECREASE IN YARN HAIRINESSBy sizing protruding hairs of yarn fix with yarn and so yarn hairinessdecreases mentionably.8. DECREASE IN STATIC ELECTRICITY FORMATIONSize materials contain hygroscopic agent and water which hinder theformation of static change on yarn surface. Again due to mass frictionalresistance the formation of static electricity becomes less.SIZE TAKE-UP PERCENTAGESoutheast University Department of Textile Engineering29Wt. of size material on yarn 100% 30. Size take up % =Size Take up Percentage Depends on the Following Factors Twist S.T Yarn count S.T Viscosity of size material S.T speed of yarn passing through m/c S.T Pressure of squeezing roller. S.T Amorphousness of fiber in yarn. S.T Flexibility of yarn S.T Nature of adhesive. S.T Time and Temperature. S.TSIZE CALCULATIONMATH-1: A beam of wt. 260 lbs. contains 4000 sized warp of 1200 ydslength. It the unsized yarn count is 30 Ne and empty beam wt. 50 lbs.,then calculate -i. Wt. of size on yarn.ii. Count of sized yarn.iii. Size take-up percentage.Soln: 40001200Weight of unsized yarn = yds84030= 190.47 lb.Southeast University Department of Textile Engineering30Wt. of unsized yarn 31. Wt. of sized Yarn = (260 50) lbs.= 210 lbs.Wt. of size material = (210 - 190.47) lbs= 19.53 lb. (Ans)40001200Wt. of sized yarn = yds.840C4800000or, 210 =840C4800000or, C = = 27.21 = 27 Ne (Ans)840 210Size take up percentage (%) = (wt. of size material on yarn / wt. ofunsized Yarn) x 100 %= 19.53/190.47 x 100 %= 10.25 % (Ans)The loom is the contact point of the whole process of cloth production,ginning, opening, carding, spinning, winding, warping, sizing and beamingare done before weaving. A loom cannot be said a machine but it is aSoutheast University Department of Textile Engineering31LOOM 32. device which is used to produce woven fabric. Looms are generally driveneither by line shaft or by individual motors fitted with it.Weaving Mechanism / Basic Principle of WeavingWeaving is the process of interlacement between the warp and weft infabric according to a design of fabric.Basic principle or weaving mechanism is: The yarn from the weavers beam passes round the back restand comes forward through the drop wire of the warp stop motion tothe heald eye of heald shaft which is responsible for the purpose ofshade formation. It then passes through the dent of reed which holds the thread atuniform spacing and it is also performed the beating up the weftthread that has been left in the triangle warp sheet form by the twowarp sheet and reed. In this way, weft yarn is meshes with last pick of fabric or cloth.Temple holds the cloth firm at the feed position and assist in theformation of a uniform fabric width. Then fabric passes over the frontrest, take up roller, pressure roller and finally wind on to the clothroller.DRIVING MOTIONSoutheast University Department of Textile Engineering32 33. It is seen that the figure that, two tappet mounted with the onebottom shaft and it passed the treadle lever by treadle bowl todown direction. There is a fulcrum at the end of treadle lever and another end oflever is joined with heald shaft by yarn. Top roller acts as intermediate of two rope of heald shaft fromwhich rope passes over the top roller. When shedding cam or tappet pressed on the treadle lever bytreadle bowl, then one heald shaft is down while another is up andshedding is formed. Such way, 2nd shedding tappet reverses fullmotion i.e. upper heald shaft is down and down heald shaft is up. The mechanism of a power loom receives their motion from shaftthat traverses from side to side in the loom and is driver fromanother. Their relative speeds are of importance since they give themechanism that they drive. The crank shaft being driven by the motor moves one revolution perpicks. The motion of the teeth of the gear wheels connecting thisshaft to the bottom shaft is always 2:1, so that the bottom shaft willmove one revolution in ever two picks.Southeast University Department of Textile Engineering33 34. CLASSIFICATIONSoutheast University Department of Textile Engineering34LoomHand Loom Power LoomOrdinaryPower LoomAutomaticPower LoomModern orShuttle less LoomHand Loom1. Primitive or Vertical loom.2. Pit loom(a) Throw shuttle loom.(b) Fly shuttle loom.3. Frame loom(a) Throw shuttle loom.(b) Fly shuttle loom.4. Chitttaranjan loom.5. Hattersley loomOrdinary Motor1. Common Motor.2. Individual motor.Modern or Shuttleless Loom1. Projectile Loom.2. Rapier Loom.3. Air jet Loom.4. Multiphase. 35. LOOM MOTIONSoutheast University Department of Textile Engineering35LoomPrimary Motion Secondary Motion Tertiary MotionPrimary motion1. Shedding:(a) Tappet(b) Dobby.(c) Jacquard.2. Picking:(a) Over pick(b) Under pick.(c) Modern pick.3. Beating:(a) Single(b) Multiple(c)Variable.Secondary Motion1. Take up(a) Positive(b) Negative.2. Let off(a) Positive(b) Negative.(5 wheel, 7 wheel)Tertiary Motion1. Warp stop motion2. Weft stop motion (Centre, side)3. Reed stop motion (Loose, fast)4. Temple motion (Roller, reed)5. Weft replenish 36. 1. Primary MotionIn order to interlace warp and weft thread to produce fabric on any typeof weaving machine 3 primary motion is necessary:I) Shedding:It is the process of separating the warp thread into two layers toform a tunnel called shed (through which shuttle carrying weftpasses) is known as shedding. During shedding some yarns areraised up and some are depressed down create a tunnel.II) Picking:The method of passing the weft threads which traverse across thefabric through shed is called picking. The inserted weft is called apick.III) Beating:It is the process of pushing the pick into the already woven fabric ata point known as fell of the cloth .By pressure of wraith to jointedfeed side of the cloth is called beating.2. Secondary MotionI) Take up motion:The motion which with draw (wound up) fabric from the weavingarea at a constant rate and thus give required pick spacings andwinds the fabric on to a roller is called cloth control or Take upmotion. Positive Take up motions is mechanically driven. NegativeTake up motions is spring drive.II) Let off motion:The motion which deliver warp to the weaving at the required rateand at a suitable constant tension by unwinding it from a flangedknown as weavers beam is called let off motion.Southeast University Department of Textile Engineering36 37. 3. Tertiary MotionTertiary motion is not must for fabric production but it is used for higherproduction.1. Warp Stop Motion: Machine will be stopped electrically ormechanically.2. Weft stop motion: It may be two types-(a) Side weft motion & (b) Centre weft motion.3. Reed stop motion: Two types-(a) Fast reed motion.(b) Loose reed motion.SHEDDINGDividation of warp threads into two parts for insertion of weft threads iscalled shed and the mechanism of shed is called shedding, it is the firstprimary motion of weavingTypes of Shed1. Bottom close shed2. Centre close shed3. semi-open shed4. Open shedSoutheast University Department of Textile Engineering37 38. Primitive Loom /Vertical LoomWarp yarn is taken in a roller instead of beam and hanged in a wall andshed is produced by a piece of wood. In this loom the vertical frame isused to hold the warp in stretched condition. Weft is passed through theshed by hand. Beating is done by the pressure of hand. Take off actionwas done in a separate roller by hand. Let off was also by hand.Picking Beating One weavingcycleSheddingPrimary motionThrow Shuttle Pit LoomIn this loom, the frame was laid on a pit. Shedding was obtained by givingthe pressure to the treadle levers suited inside of the pit by feet. Theweaver throws the shuttle across the width of the cloth by one hand andcatches it by another hand.Chittarajan LoomIt is constructed by iron and wood. The principle characteristics of thisloom is The two wheels upon a shaft connect the sley two ends with the helpof two levers. Regulating the sweep of sley and force of beat upallowing less strain to weaver and uniform force to beat up. The positive take up motion by the five wheels to regulate the picksper inch. The alternation of picks per inch is positive by changing thewheel to take up motion. Negative let off motion with chain, lever and dead weights has beenadopted in this loom to ensure uniform let off warp cloth is taken upby positive means.Southeast University Department of Textile Engineering38 39. Shedding and picking motion work in the same manner as in the flyshuttle loom but the loom speed is greater than hand loom. Shedding motions are generated manually but secondary motions likelet off and take up are done automatically. So this loom may be calledsemi-automatic loom.Southeast University Department of Textile Engineering39 40. JUTE LOOMHessian Loom Used for comparatively fine fabrics Larger loom width 2 heald shaft, one yarn/ heald eye Finer reed Two tappet and tappet are on bottom shaft Small pinion on pin roller Suitable for plain weave(1 up1 down) Yarn count7.5 lb/spindle Backrest attach with frameSacking Loom Comparatively coarse fabric Loom width is less 3 heald shaft,3 yarn/heald eye Coarse reed Larger pin on pin roller Suitable for twill weave(2 up,1 down) Yarn count (8-10), around 8.5 lb/spindle Separate back rest Tappets are on counter shaft.Advantages of Fly Shuttle Loom/ Reason for Choice of Fly ShuttleLoom Higher m/c speed or weaving speed(60-80rpm)Maximum speed of Pit loom-60 rpmHand through Pit loom-20 rpmVertical loom-1 ppm No. of heald shaft is higher In fly shuttle loom, higher width fabric is possible In Pit loom, only narrow width fabric can be woven Solid and compact structure with minimum vibrationFly shuttle loom- more compact and solid structure-minimum vibrationSoutheast University Department of Textile Engineering40 41. -less spacePit loom-higher vibration-more space Flanged weavers beam provided better selvedgeFly shuttle loom-wooden flanged weavers beam ensure better selvedgePit loom- without flanged weavers loom Adjustable back rest to suit quality fabric Pit loom- fixed back rest 22 Let-off with lever arrangement-Uniform let-off of yarn is possible. Adjustable sweep of sley suit quality fabric.Pit loom-over hanging sley assembly-sweep of sley is not adjustable.Fly shuttle loom-sley assembly is supported by sley sword More freely operated treadles. More cloth on cloth roller is possible. Positive take-up can be fitted. Free picker Dobby and jacquard can be fitted. Suitable for both fine and coarse fabric.Difference between Hand Loom and Power LoomSoutheast University Department of Textile Engineering41Hand Loom Power Loom1. Operating system ismanual.1. Operating by electricpower.2. Shedding is done bypaddle and Picking,Beating is done byhand.2. Shedding and Pickingis done automatically.3. Less production. 3. High production.4. Slow running speed. 4. High running speed.5. Check and stripedfabrics are produced.5. One color fabrics isproduced. 42. 10 01Construction10 Plain20 Twill30 Satin0101 00Lifting pattern ofthe first warpyarnNo. of adjacentwarp yarnswith identicallifting patternMovenumberDifference between Hesian and Sacking LoomHesian Loom Sacking Loom1. One up one down plainweave.1. Two up one down twillweave.2. It has two heald shafts. 2. It has 3 eald shafts.3. No of tappet 2. 3. No of tappet 34. No auxiliary shaft. 4. Need of auxiliary shaftdue to more 2 tappet iscalled counter shaft.5. A single yarn is passedthrough a heald eye.5. Two yarns are passedthrough a heald eye.6. Less spacing betweenwarp yarns.6. More spacing betweenwarp yarns.7. Finer thread is used. 7. Coarser thread is used.New condensed notation (DIN 61 101)Southeast University Department of Textile Engineering42 43. DEFINITIONKnitting is the method of creating fabric by transforming continuousstrands of yarn into a series of interlocking loops, each row of such loophanging by the one immediately preceding it. The basic element of knitfabric structure is the loop intermeshed with the loops adjacent to it onboth side and above and below it.TERMS Kink of Yarn: Per loop from a single yarn. Knitted Loop: two loops intermeshed. Knitted Stitch: Three loops intermeshed. Top Arc: Loop Head Bottom Half Arc Leg/ Side Limber Needle Loop Sinker Loop Close Loop Open LoopSoutheast University Department of Textile Engineering43Fig: knitting structure 44. Wale: Vertical column of needle loop. Course: Horizontal row of needle loop. Stitch Density: Wales per Inch Course per Inch. Stitch length: Needle loop + Sinker loop Extended sinker loop Face loop Back loop Needle:Southeast University Department of Textile Engineering44United NeedleIndependent Needle 45. Knitting M/C: there are three types of knitting M/C 1. Warp knitting: Gives vertical movement of yarn.2. Weft knitting: Gives horizontal movement of yarn.3. Other loop forming and combined M/C: Tri-axial. Needle Carrier: Which carries needle. Number of Feed System: The number of feeder by course. Working Diameter: In circular knitting m/c, the distance from oneneedle exact to the other needle is known as working dia. Working Width: In flat knitting m/c, the distance from first needle tothe last needle is known as working width. Gauge: Number of needle per inch. Pitch: The distance the center from one needle to the center ofanother needle is known as pitch. There Are Three Types Of Knitted Fabric Selvage fabricSoutheast University Department of Textile Engineering45 46. Cut edge fabric Tubular fabric Open lap Close lapDIALDial is the upper steel needle bed used in double knit machines. Into thegrooves of the dial, the needles are mounted horizontally and are allowedto move radially in and out by their dial cams. The number of grooves perunit space conforms to the cylinder gauge in most of the cases.CYLINDERSoutheast University Department of Textile Engineering46O = over lapU = under lap Over lap Under lapFig: Dial 47. The cylinder is a steel circular bed having grooves/tricks/cuts on its outerperiphery into which the needles are mounted. With reference to thetricks, the needles move vertically up and down by their butt being incontact with the cam track. The number of tricks per inch i.e., number ofneedles per inch decides the gauge of the machine. Machines are built aslow as 4 NPI to as highas 32 NPI. Based on the machine gauge, the fineness of the yarn to beknitted can be varied. The diameter of the cylinder also varied based onthe type and width of the fabric and a maximum of 75 cm diametermachines are available.FEEDERS/STRIPPERSFeeders are the yarn guides placed close to the needles to the fullcircumference of the knitting zone. The feeders feed the yarn into theneedle hooks and control the needle latches in their open position whilethe needle attain their clearing position. They consist of a yarn guidinghole and a bevel edge to guard the latches of the approaching needles.They are slightly curved to the corresponding curvature of the needle bed.Feeders may have two holes also for the purpose of plating.Yarn feeders can be divided into positive or negative types dependingon the possibility of controlling the yarn feeding speed and uniformity.Southeast University Department of Textile Engineering47Fig: Cylinder 48. The feeder brackets can be adjusted to set their distance from the needleand to ensure yarn feed into needle hooks. Stripers are the feedersdesigned to deliver two or more yarns individually to the same feed. Theycan be considered as moving guide replacing the holes of fixed guides. Ina two color stripe, two different colored yarns are supplied by two stripperfingers and their engagement is controlled by an endless control chainwhich governs the guide change at the appropriate feeds. At eachrevolution, a counter may select the movement of all the striper chains.The stripes are used on both single and double bed machines.MACHINE DESCRIPTIONSoutheast University Department of Textile Engineering48Fig: Feeders/StripersCircular Knitting 49. FrameThe circular knitting machine consists three major sections viz., yarnsupply, knitting elements and fabric take-down. The Fig. 2.3 shows themachine frame, indicating its various parts. The knitting elements such asneedles, sinkers, cylinder, cams and feeders are supported at the centercalled as knitting zone. Yarn packages are mounted at the overheadcreels and yarns are fed to knitting zone through yarn guides, stopmotions and feeders. The knitted fabric goes down inside the cylindertowards the centre of the machine, drawn into the take down device andfinally collected on a roll winding mechanism. A fabric spreader graduallyconverts the tubular fabric into a double layer folded fabric by preventingthe formation of pleats or creases. At the knitting zone, single knit plainmachines are fitted with a cylinder and sinker ring, whereas the doubleknit machines have cylinder and dial.DriveThe drive to the knitting machine is simple and direct. The motor impartsrotary motion to the rotating needle beds, such as cylinder and dial andalso to the take-down and cloth winding mechanisms.Basic Elements of KnittingSoutheast University Department of Textile Engineering491. Legs2. Cylinder3. Dial4. Needle5. Cam Parts6. Feeder guide7. Cam8. Supply Package9. Creel10. Top Stop Motion11. Anti Snarl Device12. TensionerMECHANICAL PRINCIPAL OF KNITTING TECHNOLOGY 50. 1. Needle2. Sinker3. Cam1.NEEDLE: There are various types of needle are available in marketwhich can be divided in the following group.a. Spring Bearded Needleb. Latch Needlec. Compound NeedleSPRING BEARDED NEEDLEStem: The stem around which the needle loop isformed.Beard: To create new loop.Eye/groove: To receive the beard.Shank or butt: To support and give strength tothe needle. And control the movement of needle.Tip: To receive the latch spoon.Head: To open and close the latch.Stem: It around which the needle loop isformed.Southeast University Department of Textile Engineering50 51. LATCH NEEDLEHook: It draws and retains the new loop.Latch blade: To give support and strength thelatch.Latch spoon: To open and close the needle.Stem: This carries the loops in the clearing orrest position.Rivet: It works like a screw.Butt: Which serving to displace the needlealong the needle bed slot.COMPOUND NEEDLETip: To receive the latch spoon.Hook: To form a new loopSliding latch: To open and close the needleand help to form new loop.Dead weight: To give downward motion of thesliding latch.Lead: It works like a butt.Southeast University Department of Textile Engineering51 52. The sinker is the second primary knitting element. It is a thin metal platewith an individual or a collective action operating approximately at rightangles from the hook side of the needle bed, between adjacent needles.Sinkers capable of producing loop fabric are well known in the knittingindustry. In such machines the sinkers generally include a blade havingan upper edge which defines a lower knitting level and a nib having anupper edge which is at an upper knitting level. Long loops are formed atthe upper knitting level of the sinkers with a loop yarn and a base yarn isknitted over the blade. The sinkers may be formed and their movementcontrolled to cause either the loop yarn to appear on one side of a fabricand the base yarn on the other or the loop yarn to appear on both sides.FUNCTIONButt: To fix the sinker with the sinker bed.Shank: To give strength and support the sinkerBuldge: To gives strength and support.Lower shank: To give strength and support to the sinker.Throat: To form new sinker loop.Clearence: To hold the sinker loop.Southeast University Department of Textile Engineering522. SINKER 53. FUNCTION OF SINKERThere are three function of sinker.1. Loop formation2. Holding down3. Knocking over1. Loop Formation: On bearded needle weft knitting macShines ofstraight bar frame and sinker wheel type, the loop forming action isperformed. The purpose of a sinker is to kink the newly laid yarn intoloop as its forward edge of advance between two adjoining needle.2. Holding down Sinker: The second function is hold down the old loopa lower level on the needle stem, then the new loop which are beingformed and prevent to old loops from being lifted as the needles rise toclear from their hooks.3. Knocking Over Sinker: The third function of the sinker is to knockover the old loops on the neck of the new loops.Sinkers Operation1. The held loop is positioned in the throat of the sinker when the sinkermoves forward and the needle moves upward for clearing. The held loopis held by the throat and hence its movement along the needle isrestricted.Southeast University Department of Textile Engineering53 54. 2. The sinker remains at its forward position when the needle attains itsclearing position.3. The sinker retracts when the needle comes down after feeding. At thisstage, due to sinkers retraction, fabric or held loop is eased out. Also thesinker belly supported the fabric or held loop and hence its movementsalong the needle is prevented.4. Sinker remains in backward position and the needle descends to itslowest position drawing the new loop through the old one.5. Before the needle ascends, the sinker moves forward to push theknitted fabric a little and to hold the old loop away from the head of theneedle and to be in a position to control the fabric.Southeast University Department of Textile Engineering54 55. The knitting cams are hardened steels and they are the assembly ofdifferent cam plates so that a track for butt can be arranged. Each needlemovement is obtained by means of cams acting on the needle butts.The knitting cams are divided in to three groups. Such as1) Knit cam2) Tuck cam3) Miss camThe upward movement of the needle is obtained by the rising cams orclearing cams. The rising cam places the needle at a certain level as itapproaches the yarn area. Cams controlling the downward movement ofthe needles are called stitch cams. The lowest point to which the needleis drawn by the stitch cam is called the cast-off position. Guard camskeep the needle butts in their race-way. Running cams or [up throwSoutheast University Department of Textile Engineering553. CAM 56. cams] the needle butts at a low level until they meet the next risingcam.Knitting Action of Latch Needle of Knit Loop6. Knock over Positiona. The old is falling on the neckFigureDescriptionSoutheast University Department of Textile Engineering56of new loop.b. Thus the knit loop is formed.c. The latch is closed.1. Rest Positiona. The previously formed loops isin the hook.b. The needle which now starts toascend.c. The latch is closed.2. Tuck Positiona. In this position the loop is onthe latch.b. The latch is opened.3. Clearing Positiona. In this clearing position latchis opened.b. The loop is under the latch.4. Feed Positiona. New loop is on the hook.b. The old loop is under thelatch.5. Custom Positiona. The latch is starting to close.b. The old loop is on the latch.c. The new loop is in the hook. 57. Knitting Action for Tuck Loop in Latch NeedleSoutheast University Department of Textile Engineering577. a. The latch is closed.b. The loop is in the hook.8. a. The latch is close.b. The loop is in the hook.9. a. The latch is open.b. The loops are on the latch.10. a. The latch is open.b. The new loop is in the hook.11. a. The new loop is in thehook.b. The latch is open.c. The old loops are in the hook.12. a. The latch is open.b. The loops are in the hook.14. a. The loops are under the hook.b. The latch is open.13. a. The loop is on the latch.b. The latch is open.Figure description(Fig: 002) 58. Southeast University Department of Textile Engineering5815. a. The loops are on the latch.b. The latch is close.16. a. The old loop joins to the newloop.Knitting Action of Spring Bearded Needle (Knit Loop) 59. FIGURE DESCRIPTION1. YARN FEEDINGa. Beard is open.b. New yarn feed in the beard.c. Old loop is in the stem.Southeast University Department of Textile Engineering592. YARN KINKINGa. Beard is open.b. Old loop is in the stem.c. Sinker kink the newly feedyarn.4. PRESSINGa. The beard is closed bypressure.b. The old loop is on the stem.c. The new loop is in the hook.3. UNDER LAPPINGa. The beard is open.b. The old loop is on the stem.c. The sinker takes the new loopto the front.5. LANDINGa. The beard is closed bypressure.b. The old loop start to going onthe beard.c. The new loop start to going6. JOINING AND CASTINGOFFa. The beard is closed.b. The old loop is falling on theneck of the new loop.7. CLEARINGa. The beard is open.b. The loop is in the stem.(Fig: 002) 60. Jersey fabric is a type of knit textile made from cotton or a cotton andsynthetic blend. Some common uses for jersey fabric include t-shirts andwinter bedding. The fabric is warm, flexible, stretchy, and very insulating,making it a popular choice for the layer worn closest to the body. Jerseyalso tends to be soft, making it very comfortable.The textile is named for the island of Jersey. Jersey is the largest of agroup of islands known as the Channel Islands, located between Englandand France. The island has a long history of human occupation, and isalso well known for Jersey cows, typically raised for their rich, creamymilk.A knitting machine is used to make jersey, since it can create the small,even, close grained stitches associated with jersey fabric. Like many otherknit fabrics, jersey fabric has a right side and a wrong side. The right sideof the material is marked by a series of very small lines which runvertically, and the wrong side has a horizontal grain. In most cases, agarment made from jersey fabric is sewn with the right side facing out,unless the seamstress is making a deliberate stylistic choice.One of the reasons many people like to wear jersey fabric is the stretchfactor. The fabric can stretch up to 25% percent along its grain. Garmentsmade from the material have plenty of give as their wearers move, andalso tend to cling to the body, since the fabric contracts as well asexpanding. Knit dresses are usually made from jersey fabric, exploitingthe clingy characteristic of the fabric. Jersey fabric is also available in alarge assortment of colors and patterns to suit all tastes.Care directions for jersey fabric vary, depending on whether the fabric isentirely natural or partially synthetic. As a general rule, jersey fabric canbe washed in warm water with like colors, and tumble dried on a mediumsetting. Bright colors will stay brighter longer if they are washed on a coldsetting and dried on low. Try to avoid mixing bright colors and whites inthe wash, as the colors may bleed.When sewing jersey fabric, it is recommended that the fabric be washedfirst, especially if it is cotton. All knits tend to shrink when they arewashed, and washing beforehand eliminates shrinkage issues. It is alsoSoutheast University Department of Textile Engineering60What is Jersey fabric? 61. important to use a pattern specifically designed for knit fabrics, as thepattern will account for the stretch factor of the material. Mostseamstresses also use a double layer of stitching or an overlock stitch onjersey fabric, to prevent unraveling.Knitting Fabric Structure1. Plain structure2. Rib structure3. Interlock structure4. Purl structure1. PLAIN STRUCTUREPlain is produce by the needles knitting as a single set, drawing the loopsfrom technical back and towards the technical face side of the fabric.Example: jersey blister, jersey lily, stocknitte etc.Features of Plain Single Jersey Fabric1. Used only one set of needle to produce fabric.2. Simplest and most economical production.3. 40% potential recovery stretching.4. Probability of curling of yarn.5. Technical face is smooth and v-shape can be seen through the Wales.6. Technical back is rough and wave shape appeared at the back thoughtthe course.7. It one yarn breaks, the needle loops successively unmosh throughcourse, this effect is called laddering.Southeast University Department of Textile Engineering61PRIMARY BASIC STRUCTURES 62. 8. Unroving of yarn can be prevented by binding off.Features of Plain Circular Knitting M/C1. Single jersey is produce by plain circular knitting m/c.2. One set of latch needle is used here.3. Latch needle, sinker, cylinder, sinker ring revolve around thestationary knitting cam system.4. Yarn supplied from cone placed either on end integral overheadbobbin stand or on a free standing side creel through tensioner, stopmotion guide eyes down to the yarn guide.5. Stationary yarn feeder are situated at a regular interval around thecircumference of the cylinder.6. The fabric in tubular form is drawn downward from inside the needlecylinder by tension roller and is wound onto the fabric batching rollerof winding frame.7. The winding down mechanism revolves along with the fabric tube.8. As the sinker cam plate is placed outside on the needle circle, thecenter of the cylinder is open and the m/c is referred as open top orsinker top m/c.2. RIB STRUCTUREThe structure which requires 2 sets of needle operating in between eachother so that wales of face side and wales of back side are knitting oneach side of fabric is called rib structure.Features of Structure1. It is normally knitting with 2 sets of latch needle.2. Rib has vertical card appearance.3. 11 rib has the appearance of technical face of plane fabric.Southeast University Department of Textile Engineering62 63. 4. Relaxed 11 rib is theoretically twice as thick and 1/2 the width of anequivalent plain fabric.5. It is more expensive fabric to produce than plain.6. It can be unravel from the end knitted last by the free loops headthrough to the back of each stitch.7. It is a heavier structure.8. It has no curling tendency.9. Rib structures are elastic, form fitting and retain wormth better thanplain structure.Uses: Rib is suitable particularly for the top of the socks, cuff, collar ribborder of garments, gloves etc.FEATURES OF CIRCULAR RIB M/C1. In this m/c, one set of needle is arranged vertically in the cylinder andanother set of needle is arranged in the dial of the m/c.2. Here both dial and cylinder rotates where cam with yarn feeder remainstationary.3. The needle of dial and cylinder are arranged in different positionalternatively.4. No sinker is required for this m/c.5. Not more than 2 cam tracks are possible for dial of this m/c.FEATURES OF INTERLOCKING STRUCTURE1. Interlocking has the technical face of plain fabric on both sides.2. Interlock course requires 2-feeder per course.3. Reverse loop cannot be seen.Southeast University Department of Textile Engineering63 64. 4. Interlocking relaxes by about 30-40% or more compared with itsknitting width.5. This is balance, smooth, stable, structure.6. Fabric is thicker, heavier and narrower than rib of equivalent gauge.7. Finer, better, more expensive yarn is required.8. Bath horizontal and vertical stripe can be produced.9. Production is lass.FEATURE OF PURL STRUCTURE1. It has the similar appearance to pearl droplets.2. Purl structure have one or more wales which contain both and backloop.3. Both sides needle and sinker loops are prominent.4. The tricks of the two needle bed in purl m/c are exactly opposite toeach other and in same plane.5. Double ended batch needles are used in purl m/c.6. Two types of m/c are available for purl structure.a. Flat m/cb. Circular m/c7. The simple purl structure is 11 purl.8. Purl fabric is twice as thick as plain fabric.Southeast University Department of Textile Engineering64KNITTING ACTION OF RIB CIRCULAR M/C 65. 1. REST POSITIONIn this position, both the dial and cylinder needles are in stationaryposition. And the latch is closed.2. TUCKING POSITION FOR DIALIn this position, the needle of dial comes forward and the loop falls on theopened latch of the needle. And the cylinders needle remains stationary.3. TUCKING POSITION FOR CYLINDERSoutheast University Department of Textile Engineering65FIGURE DESCRIPTION 66. In this position, the needle of cylinder comes forward while the needle ofdial is on the forward position. The loop falls on the opened latch of thedial needle.4. CLEARING POSITION FOR DIALIn this position, the dials needle goes more forward and the loop goesunder the opened latch of the needle.5. CLEARING POSITION FOR CYLINDERIn this position, the cylinders needle goes more forward and the loopgoes under the opened latch of the needle.6. YARN PRESENTING POSITIONIn this position, the newly presented yarn is laid in the open needle hooksof both the needle.7. CAST ON POSITIONIn this position, the both needles catch the new yarn on their head andstart to come in backward position. Then the old loops close the latch ofthe both needle.8. KNOCK OVER POSITIONIn this last position, the both dial and cylinder needles come to theirbackward position. The old loops knock over the newly made loops.FormulasNo. of feeder=No. of cam= No. of course.=Southeast University Department of Textile Engineering66Knitting CalculationProduction 1000 1000 1000RPM of cylinder Cylinder dia gauge loop length (mm) Tex 8 60 efficiency % 67. No. of sinker= No. of needle= No. of loop = D G mmNumber of needle = m= m= gm.Production = = kg/shiftHere, D = cylinder diaG = gaugeL = stitch lengthF = No. of feederT = tex numberFor single jersey:Production in weight,= kg/shiftSoutheast University Department of Textile Engineering67 D G l1000 D G l N F1000 D G l N F T10001000 D G l N F T 60 810001000 1000RPM of Cylinder No. of feeder Cylinder dia gauge loop length (mm) Tex 60 8 efficiency %1000 1000 1000 68. Production in length,= yards/shiftFor Double JerseyProduction in length = yds/shiftProduction in weight = Single jersey production in weight 2 kg/shiftSoutheast University Department of Textile Engineering68CPMCPIRPM of cylinder No of feeder 60 8 efficiency %CPI 36Single jersey production in length2 69. Given,Southeast University Department of Textile Engineering69Math-1 70. CPI = 66Cylinder dia = 25Cylinder RPM = 20Loop length = 2.2 mmYarn count = 70 texGauge = 22No. of feeder = 90Efficiency =90 %Find the production of the m/c in weight and production in length.(Both single and double jersey) and find no. of needle.SOLUTIONFor single jersey;20 90 3.14 25 22 2.2 70 60 8 90%Production in weight == 229.79 0.9= 206.8 kg/shift (Ans)No. of needle = D G= 3.14 25 x 22 = 1727 (Ans)Southeast University Department of Textile Engineering701000 1000 1000 71. Production in length = yds/shift= 327.27 yds/shift (Ans)For double jersey;Production in length = = 163.6 yds/shift (Ans)Production in weight = 206.8 2 = 413.6 kg/shift (Ans)Here,PROOFGSM = lb/inc2= lb/inch2= gm/m2Southeast University Department of Textile Engineering7120 90 60 8 90%66 36327.272W C l25.4 36 840 NeW C l768096 NeW C l768096 Ne4531 239.371m= 39.37 inch.1 inch= 1/39.371 lb= 453 gm 72. = 453 (39.37)2 gm/m2= 702148.5957 gm/m2= gm/m2GSM = gm/m2 (Proved)Southeast University Department of Textile Engineering72W C l768096 NeW C l768096 NeW C l 0.915NeW C l 0.915Ne