Fabric Factors Impacting Digital Printing Xingyu Li · Fabric Factors Impacting Digital ... (2005)...

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Fabric Factors Impacting Digital Printing

Xingyu Li Nancy Powell

NC State University

Dec.7 2016

Printed Textile Markets

REVIEW

Apparel Interior/Furnishings Technical textiles

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Textile Printing Market

REVIEW

Digital textile printing was reported to be only one to two percent of the total printed textiles market in 20141.

(Source: John Provost, 2014)

Recent studies indicate that digital textile printing is progressively growing worldwide and volumes are expected to grow to 1.4 billion m2 by 20172.

(Source: Dr. JD Hayward, Smithers Pira, 2012)

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Conventional Printing vs. Digital Printing3

REVIEW

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Advantages of Digital Textile Printing

Key Features• Multicolor

• Versatile ink

• Variable data

• Quick turn-around

• Non-contact with substrate

• High speed for prototyping

• High resolution (1440dpi)

REVIEW

Advantages4

• Short run printing • Support mass customization• Reduced substrate inventory • Ability to respond to the market faster• Lower water and power consumption• Reduced production space requirements• Variety of creative design choices for printing• Sampling and production done on same

printer

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Variables in Digital Printing on Textiles

There exists a strong interaction between texture of the substrate and the ink4.

In digital inkjet printing on textiles, the print quality, color and appearance, is dependent upon many variables5

REVIEW: KEY FACTORS

Fabric (woven) properties and substrate preparation and processing 5

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Yarn Structure

• Wicking: Continuous filament yarn> Texturized yarn

• The irregular capillary void space created plays a role in holding a liquid droplet in the space while increasing the inter-filament wicking rate.

• Capillary for wicking increases in the closely packed multifilament yarn structure and in the high density of warp yarns in a woven fabric7 .

REVIEW: WOVEN PROPERTIES

SEM images of continuous filament yarn and air texturized yarn (nylon 6,6)76

Fabric Construction

• Inkjet printing quality increased as the ink droplet’s spreading became less on a woven fabric surface8.

• The quality of digital print images on woven fabric is influenced by different weave structures in the basecloth9.


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Fabric ConstructionREVIEW: WOVEN PROPERTIES

8(Source: Park H et al.,2006)

5-harness filling-faced satin polyester

Fabric ConstructionREVIEW: WOVEN PROPERTIES

Basic weave structure simulations (EAT DesignScope Victor®)

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Fabric Density & Cover Factor


The density of a woven fabric is determined by ends per inch (epi) and picks per inch (ppi).This fabric density is also characterized by the cover factor, K, which indicates the area covered by yarns relatively to the total area of woven fabric10.

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Pretreatment

• Depending on the type of dye applied and the substrate content, the textile material needs a specific type of pretreatment before being digital inkjet printed13.

• Pretreatment is critically important to ensure that the print definition, color, and brightness as well as the color fastness performance are at a high level14.

REVIEW: FABRIC PREPARATION AND PROCESSING

Non-treated Pretreated

SEM photographs of fiber appearance of cotton fabrics1611

• According to Kiatkamjornwong et al, the PEO treatment covers the inter-fiber spaces instead of the inter-yarn spaces. Inkjet printing will cover mainly inter-fiber and has minor effects on inter-yarn air permeability because of the lower add-on. Thus, the ink penetrates and fills the inter-fiber spaces16.

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Pretreatment

• Pretreatment also has an influence on print clarity15.

• To achieve better print quality on fabric by inkjet printing, it is necessary to pretreat the surface of the fabric in order to prevent excess penetration of fluid ink.


Left – no pretreatment Right – with pretreatment

Drop-wicking on an untreated substrate with the greater control obtained by pre-treatment15

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Selvedge


• Some digital inkjet printers have no selvedge pins or holders, • Print head catches the fabric, the fabric gets stuck against the print head.

• Block some ink channels • Serious damage to the printer• Preventing it from moving along12. 13

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Research ObjectivesCase: Pigment on Woven Polyester

• Determine the key factors of materials and processes that affect the quality of digitally printed fabrics.

• Evaluate factors impacting digital printing according to ASTM and AATCC standards.

• Recommend material and process aspects to optimize the basecloth based on testing results and industry survey.

METHODOLOGY

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METHODOLOGY

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Yarn

Fabric

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Testing Standards for Woven Substrate

METHODOLOGY

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Commercial Fabrics Final Selections

METHODOLOGY

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DOE sample plan

METHODOLOGY

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Fabric Structure Simulation (EAT Design Scope Victor®)

METHODOLOGY

Fabric structure simulation on a 2/1 duck construction 19

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Physical Properties Results

RESULTS AND DISCUSSION

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MS-JP5 Evo Digital Printer Technical Specifications19

METHODOLOGY

MS-JP5 Evo digital printer equipped with Kyocera print heads 21

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Calibration and Characterization


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Crock Fastness of Selected Commercial Fabrics20


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Crock Fastness of Designed Fabrics


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Findings


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• Filament PET warp × filament PET filling ➞ lowest wet pickup percentage.

• Shrinkage occurs mostly during preparation. (scouring:13%, curing 2% )

• Spun PET warp × spun PET filling ➞ lowest wet shrinkage percentage.

• The fringes or loose selvedge threads ➞ stop or interrupt printing.

• Suggested selvedge construction: plain weave.

• Fabrics with filament warp have better performance in wet crock fastness.

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Summary

Results

• Key factors: Yarn type, fabric construction, fabric density, selvedge, pretreatment.

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• Woven polyester samples • MS-JP5 Evo digital printer • Pigment ink

Fiber & Yarn

Weaving Printing Testing


Ongoing Research

• Identified factors are being validated through an industry survey of experts in printing textiles.

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Survey Question Samples

INDUSTRY SURVEY

References

1. http://www.heimtextil-blog.com/en/part-1-digital-textile-printing-quality-for-the-masses/

2. http://digitaltextilereview.com/?p=916

3. Choi PS, Yuen C, Ku S, Kwan CW (2003) Ink-jet printing for textiles. Textile Asia

4. Kan CW, Yuen C (2012) Digital Ink-jet Printing on Textiles. Research Journal of Textile and Apparel 16:1-24

5. Bae JH, Hong KH, Lamar TM (2015) Effect of texture on color variation in inkjet‐printed woven textiles. Color Research & Application 40:297-303

6. Daplyn S, Lin L (2003) Evaluation of pigmented ink formulations for jet printing onto textile fabrics. Pigment & resin technology 32:307-318

7. Nyoni AB (2011) Liquid transport in Nylon 6.6 woven fabrics used for outdoor performance clothing. INTECH Open Access Publisher

8. Mhetre S, Carr W, Radhakrishnaiah P (2010) On the relationship between ink-jet printing quality of pigment ink and the spreading behavior of ink drops. The Journal of the Textile Institute 101:423-430

9. Park H, Carr WW, Ok H, Park S (2006) Image quality of inkjet printing on polyester fabrics. Text Res J 76:720-728

10. Behera BK, Kremenakova D, Militky J, Mishra R (2012) Modeling of woven fabrics geometry and properties. INTECH Open Access Publisher

11. Peirce FT (1937) 5—the geometry of cloth structure. Journal of the Textile Institute Transactions 28: T96

12. Choi P, Yuen C, Ku S, Kwan CW (2004) Ink and substrates for ink-jet printing. Textile Asia

13. Malik SK, Kadian S, Kumar S (2005) Advances in ink-jet printing technology of textiles. Indian Journal of Fiber & Textile Research 30:99-113

14. Horrocks AR, Anand SC (2000) Handbook of technical textiles. Elsevier

15. Tyler DJ (2005) Textile digital printing technologies. Textile Progress 37:1-65

16. Kiatkamjornwong S, Putthimai P, Noguchi H (2005) Comparison of textile print quality between inkjet and screen printings. Surface coatings international part b: coatings transactions 88:25-34

17. https://www.scribd.com/doc/37250561/Bow-and-Skew

18. http://digitaltextilereview.com/?p=770

19. http://www.msitaly.com/00/P00000011/JP5-evo.html

20. Personal communication with Dr. Jihye Lim, Research Project Team, NC State University, College of Textiles.

21. Kissa E. Wetting and wicking. Text Res J. 1996;66(10):660-668.

22. Patnaik A, Rengasamy R, Kothari V, Ghosh A. Wetting and wicking in fibrous materials. Textile Progress 2006;38(1):1-105.

23. Oliver, J. F. (1982). "Wetting and Penetration of Paper Surfaces". 200: 435–453

24. Leelajariyakul, S.; Noguchi, H.; Kiatkamjornwong, S. (2008). "Surface-modified and micro-encapsulated pigmented inks for ink jet printing on textile fabrics". Progress in Organic Coatings. 62 (2): 145–161.

25. http://www.dashinfashion.com/shop/product/dolce-gabbana-girls-mini-me-red-blue-mondello-print-outfit/

26. http://www.innovationintextiles.com/

27. http://tection.ploucquet.eu/en/latest/?PHPSESSID=735222053a2877324b3effcc39541e34

28. https://blog.colettehq.com/inspiration/grainline-understanding-terms

29. http://textilecentre.blogspot.com/2014/01/textile-finishing.html

30. Ujiie H (2006) Digital printing of textiles. Woodhead Publishing 29

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Acknowledgments

Funded by Walmart U.S. ManufacturingInnovation Fund

College of Textiles Integration of Digital Printing with Cut and SewProject Research team

Principal investigator Dr. Lisa Parrillo-Chapman

College of Textiles laboratory managers

Expand Systems

Spoonflower

Color Calibration

PRELIMINARY RESULTS AND DISCUSSION

• Color channels page of each of the six colors were digitally printed and heat set at 200 °C for two minutes, then channel pages were measured with the spectrophotometer.

• RIPMaster v11 software was used to create the color gamut.31

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Shrinkage

• Shrinkage during processes- Desized, scoured, pretreated before printing

- Cured, some fabrics need to be post-washed after printing

• Shrinkage during printing- Non-contact printing method

- A local wetting swell a local shrinkage12


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Warp and Weft Alignment (bow and skew)


It is important to keep the substrate fabric flat and straight during the printing process. Results if fabric is not controlled:• Bow: When the filling yarns lie in an arc across the width of the fabric.• Skew: Distortion in the construction of the fabric17. 33

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Crock Fastness


Crocking is the transfer of colorant from the surface of a colored fabric to another surface.

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Crock Fastness


Crocking is the transfer of colorant from the surface of a colored fabric to another surface.

A.A.T.C.C. Crockmeter

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• 21 ± 1 ˚C (70 ± 2 ˚C)

65 ± 2 % RH

• 65 ± 2 % wet pick-up

• 20 times

• Rate: Grayscale in the

X-Rite Colormetric

• Grey scale stain value:

1 - 5; 1 is poor, 5 is

excellent.

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Print Clarity6

REVIEW

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(Source: Daplyn S, Lin L, 2003)

Test Pattern


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Post-treatment Process

Wet post-treatment

• Acid and Reactive Inks

• Cotton, silk, wool, synthetic

- Steaming

- Washing

- Drying

Dry post-treatment

• Pigment and Disperse

• Cotton, linen, polyester, viscose, cotton/polyester

- Only require a heat fixation process before the fabric can be used18.


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Rotary Screen Printing vs. Digital Inkjet Printing3

(Source: Choi PS et al., 2003)

REVIEW

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Conventional Printing vs. Digital Printing

REVIEW

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Fabric Factors Impacting Digital Printing Xingyu Li · Fabric Factors Impacting Digital ... (2005)...

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