Evaluation of finishes
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Transcript of Evaluation of finishes
EVALUATION OF FINISHES
SUBMITTED TO :MR. JANMAY SINGH HADA
PRESENTED BY :ADHISHESH VERMAAJAY SINGH CHAUHANAVISHEKKUMAR SHANURIDDHI MALVIYASHYAMLEE SHREYA
Types of finishes we have evaluated :
WATER REPELLENT AND WATER PROOF
SOIL RESISTENT
FLAME RESISTENT
CREASE RESISTENT
RESIN ( DURABLE PRESS)
SANFORIZATION
INTRODUCTION
Water proof
Treated with chemicals to give them a property which makes them water resistant.Uses: raincoats, umbrellas, and tarpaulins.
1. WATER RESISTANT FINISH
Water repellent
Non Durable: Wax
Durable: Fluoro polymer
COMPARISON
RAIN TEST
BREATHING TEST
SPRAY TEST
TESTING
As specified in JIS L 1092.
BEST
•100 pts •90 pts
GOOD
•80 pts •70 pts •50 pts
WORST •0 pts
Elements Cost ( in Rs. / Linear meter)Water repellent Finishing Cost
i) Water repellent finishing Chemicals 3.2-4.5
ii) Water and Effluent Treatment 0.35-0.40
iii) Manpower 0.45-0.50
iv) Steam 0.25-0.30
v) Electricity 0.25-0.30
Drying Cost in CDR
i) Manpower 0.3-0.40
ii) Steam 0.66-0.70
iii) Electricity 0.42-0.50
Curing Cost in Stenter
i) Manpower 0.3-0.40
ii) Steam 1.9-2.2
iii) Electricity 0.80-1.0
Total Cost ( in Rs. / Linear meter) 7.20-8.10
Final Cost Analysis based on bulk scale trial for WATER REPELLENT
Finishing
2. SOIL RESISTANT FINISHES:
Permit relatively easy removal of soil.
Necessary in hydrophobic fiber.
Durable for 40 to 50 washes
EVALUATION:
OILY SOIL RELEASE TESTING
SOIL REDEPOSITION
MOISTURE TRANSPORT
OILY SOIL RELEASE TESTING:
It specifies all the parameters that strongly influence soil release of oily soil.
SOIL REDEPOSITION:
The fabric to be tested are exposed to a soiling medium during laundering with standard detergent.
The change in reflectance of the fabric before and after the testing is an indication of redeposition potential of fabric.
MOISTURE TRANSPORT:The procedure is used to determine the degree of
absorbency of fabric with soil release agents.
3. FLAME RESISTENT FINISH
Flame-resistance rating
•The time in seconds for which a fabric can withstand a standard fire resistance test.
Flame-resistant
•A flame resistant fabric is one whose flame resistant rating is high i.e. above 150
USES:•Uniforms of firefighters, military personnel, police officers, paramedics, welders, some industrial workers; Children’s sleepwear
TESTING
Vertical Strip test
Testing for thermoplastics
EVALUATION OF F.R. FINISH :
VERTICAL STRIP TEST
Three samples consisting of five specimens each are
tested. An item is considered acceptable if
The average char length of the five specimens
that make up a sample does not exceed 180 mm
TESTING CRITERION
Heat transfer EN 367
Levels Requirements:
B1 3 < HTI < 6 sec.
B2 7 < HTI < 12 sec.
B3 13 < HTI < 20 sec.
B4 21 < HTI < 30 sec.
B5 HTI > 31 sec.
Elements Cost ( in Rs. / Linear meter)Fire-Retardant Finishing Cost
i) Fire Retardant finishing Chemicals 4.4-5.0ii) Water and Effluent Treatment 0.35-0.40iii) Manpower 0.45-0.50iv) Steam NILv) Electricity 0.25-0.30
Drying Cost in CDRi) Manpower 0.3-0.40ii) Steam 0.66-0.70iii) Electricity 0.42-0.50
Curing Cost in Stenteri) Manpower 0.3-0.40ii) Steam 1.9-2.2iii) Electricity 0.80-1.0
Total Cost ( in Rs. / Linear meter) 9.83-11.4
Final Cost Analysis based on bulk scale trial for Fire Retardant Finishing
Reference: J.T. M. R&D Dept.
4. CREASE RESISTANT FINISHES:
Purpose: To reduce annoying and unsightly wrinkling in apparel.
Used in : blouses, shirts ,pants.
Applied: cotton rayon and flax
1. TOOTAL TEST
2. THE SHIRLEY CREASE RECOVERY TEST
3. VISUAL COMPARISION
AGAINST STANDARDS
EVALUATION:
THE TOOTAL TEST:
•Test specimens are cut from the fabric.
•The specimen is folded over and creased by placing under a strip of spring steel with a 500 g weight to supply the pressure for creasing.
•After 5 min, the specimen is removed and suspended over a wire and allowed for recovery for 3 min ,after which the distance between the ends of the inverted ‘V’ is read from a scale engraved on a mirror below the wire .
•To avoid touching of the specimen.
THE SHIRLEY CREASE RECOVERY TEST:
The instrument consists of a circular dial which carries the clamp for holding the specimen.
Directly under the center of the dial is a knife edge and an index line for measuring the recovery angle.
The Shirley crease recovery tester
VISUAL COMPARISION AGAINST STANDARDS:
•The fabric is creased in a random manner •Assessed against either photographic standards or against three dimensional replicas of creased fabrics.
Elements Cost ( in Rs. / Linear meter)Crease resistantFinishing Cost
i) Crease resistant finishing Chemicals 2.10-2.50ii) Water and Effluent Treatment 0.35-0.40iii) Manpower 0.45-0.50iv) Steam 0.25-0.30v) Electricity 0.25-0.30
Drying Cost in CDRi) Manpower 0.3-0.40ii) Steam 0.66-0.70iii) Electricity 0.42-0.50
Curing Cost in Stenteri) Manpower 0.3-0.40ii) Steam 1.9-2.2iii) Electricity 0.80-1.0
Total Cost ( in Rs. / Linear meter) 6.75-7.10
Final Cost Analysis based on bulk scale trial for CREASE RESISTANT Finishing :
5. Resin Finish :-
Any Finish Which Is Treated By Chemical Is Known As
“RESIN Finish”.
Method :-
PAD DRY CURE
At least 2 functional group i.e. hydroxyl group and 2 Methylol
groups react with cellulose hydroxyl compounds in DMDHEU
resin.
Wrinkle Free Fabrics :-
Durable Press Fabrics :-
Parameters To Estimate The Costing Of
Resin Finish :- Type Of Material.
Chemical Used
Cloth Length
Chemical Cost
Labor Cost
Transportation Cost
Parameters To Evaluate The Resin Finish :-
Aesthetic
• Texture, Look, Appearance, Drapeability etc.
Functional
• Handling, Stability, Strength
• Stiffness, Wear ability etc.
6. SANFORIZATION
Definition•Process of treatment used for cotton fabrics. Mostly used for textiles made from natural or chemical fibers.
Mechanism•“To place the fabric on the extended surface of a rubber blanket represented by the concave surface ”.
USES: •Used mainly for denims
Standards for Shrinkage of Sanforized
Labeled Woven Fabrics
Woven fabrics shall not either shrink or gain in excess of
1% in either the warpwise or the weftwise direction when
subjected to the wash-test method of the United States
Federal specification number CCC-T-191A or ISO 675.
STANDARDS
Elements Cost ( in Rs. / Linear meter)Sanforizing Cost
i) Sanforizing Chemicals 2.10-2.50
ii) Water and Effluent Treatment 0.35-0.40
iii) Manpower 0.45-0.50
iv) Steam 0.25-0.30
v) Electricity 0.25-0.30
Drying Cost in CDR
i) Manpower 0.3-0.40
ii) Steam 0.66-0.70
iii) Electricity 0.42-0.50
Curing Cost in Stenter
i) Manpower 0.3-0.40
ii) Steam 1.9-2.2
iii) Electricity 0.80-1.0
Total Cost ( in Rs. / Linear meter) 6.75-7.10
Final Cost Analysis based on bulk scale trial for SANFORIZING