Etty Beke Profile Board 04 30 13 - Pratt CSDScsds.pratt.edu/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/Etty... · 2...
Transcript of Etty Beke Profile Board 04 30 13 - Pratt CSDScsds.pratt.edu/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/Etty... · 2...
20,000 LITERS OF WATER 15 KG OF PESTICIDES & FERTILIZERSTO PRODUCE THIS COTTON TSHIRT
Inner zipper
Crinkled nylon outer fabric
Outer zipper
Exposed zipper
Silicon & faux leather branding
Nylon fabric lining
Nylon fabric edge lining
Zinc plated brass hardware
Cotton straps
Faux leather strap Reinforcement
Pom plasticHardware
Cotton cords
Nylon fabric Branding
Cotton & velcro Closing fastener
Etty BekeIND 487P/587P Sustainable Production MethodsProfessor: Frank MilleroSP2013
KIPLING HONEYBEE BACKPACK PRODUCT PROFILE
PRODUCT INFOPRODUCT NAMEHoneybee Women’s Backpack SPECIFICATIONSDim: 9”x14”x7.75”Weight: 15ozMANUFACTURER Kipling by VF CorporationSALESKipling is sold in over 60 countries, 6 mil-lion bags and accessories sold per year.
HABITAT ALTERATIONECOTOXICITYWATER EUTRIPHICATIONHUMAN HEALTHRESOURCE DEPLETION
OIL RAW MATERIAL | SOURCE OF ENERGY | TRANSPORTATION
COTTON RAW MATERIAL
GLOBAL WARMINGACID RAINHUMAN HEALTH INSTABILITY / HUMAN CONFLICT RESOURCE DEPLETION
1991 PERSIAN GULF WAR 240,000,000 GALLONS OF OIL SPILLED.
MY STORYKipling was founded in Antwerp in 1987 by three women. I became quite acquainted with the brand while spending my childhood and teenage summers in Belgium visiting my family. I loved the bold aesthetics, the big zippers and crinkled fabric, and owned a variety of their products.
I acquired this particular bag around 2001. Two summers ago, while my Kipling bag was resting in my closet, used only ever so often, I decided to buy a similar sized, well-priced Baggu backpack. Designed in Brooklyn with simple shapes and materials (recycled canvas), the product turned out to be quite dissapointing. A �rst wash washed away part of the dye, a couple months of use, left the closing cords fraying.
Last year, I decided to go back to my Kipling bag, which still feels like brand new. It’s still pretty, comfty and light-weight. I have never considered throwing it away.
Skein Spinning, Filament Yarn
Cotton Linters (or Wood Pulp)
Washing and Bleaching
Aging and Deaerating
Solution Mixer
Cuprammonium Liquor
Filter
Continuous Spinning, Filament Yarn
Spinning for Staple Fibre
Coagulating Liquor
Selected Production for Dope Dyed Yarn
Spinning Pump & Spinneret Pack
Chip Hopper w/ innert environment
Extruder
Spinneret
Cool Air
Spin Roll
Finished Nylon
Undrawn Nylon
POLYOXYMETHYLENE (POM)Clips & Buckle
NYLONFabric
ENERGYCRUDE OIL
EXTRACTION
PETROLEUM REFINEMENT
COPOLIMERIZATION
INJECTION MOLDING
CO2
VOCs
ENERGY CO2
VOCs
ENERGY CO2
VOCs
CO2
VOCs
ENERGY CO2
VOCs
PROCESSING INTO MONOMERS
WATERENERGY
PETROLEUM REFINEMENT
POLIMERIZATION
ENERGY CO2
VOCs
ENERGY CO2
VOCs
CO2
VOCsPROCESSING INTO
MONOMERSWATER
ENERGY
STRAND FORMINGENERGY CO2
VOCs
WEAVINGENERGY CO2
VOCs
BRASSHardware
ENERGYCOPPER ORE MINING &
CRUSHING
ELECTROLYTIC REFININGENERGY
ALLOYINGENERGY
DIE CASTINGENERGY
ZINC PLATINGENERGY
WATER
POLYURETHANE FAUX LEATHERStraps Bindings with cotton backing
ENERGYCRUDE OIL
EXTRACTION
PETROLEUM REFINEMENT
POLIMERIZATION(POLYURETHANE)
CO2
VOCs
CO2
VOCs
CO2
VOCs
ENERGYZINC ORE MINING &
CRUSHING
REFINING
CO2
VOCs
ENERGYGRINDING CO2
VOCs
ENERGYWATER
PINE OILCHEMICALS
AIR
FROTH FLOTATION CO2
VOCs
ENERGYLEAD
SMELTING CO2
VOCs
ENERGYGRINDING CO2
VOCs
ENERGYWATER
LIMECHEMICALS
AIR
FROTH FLOTATION CO2
VOCs
ENERGYLEAD
SMELTING CO2
VOCs
CO2
VOCs
CO2
VOCs
CO2
VOCs
CO2
VOCsWASTE WATER
ENERGY CO2
VOCs
ENERGY CO2
VOCs
CO2
VOCsPROCESSING INTO
MONOMERSWATER
ENERGY
COAGULATIONDRY PROCESS
WEAVING
ENERGYDYE
CO2
VOCs
SILICONEBranding
ENERGYSILICA EXTRACTION FROM SANDSTONE
COMBINE W/ CHEMI-CALS
CO2
ENERGYWATER
HAZ. HYDROGENCHLORIDE FUMES
CAST INTO MOLDENERGY
MINERAL DYECO2
COTTONStraps
ENERGYWATER
PESTICIDESFERTILIZERS
CULTIVATION
HARVESTING
CO2
VOCsWASTE WATER
ENERGY CO2
VOCs
CO2
VOCsWASTE WATER
CO2
VOCs
CO2
VOCsWASTE WATER
SPINNINGENERGYWATER
WEAVINGENERGY CO2
VOCs
GINNINGENERGY CO2
SCOURING &BLEACHING
ENERGYWATER
BLEACHINGSOLUTION
DYEINGENERGYWATER
DYES
ENERGYWATER
PESTICIDESFERTILIZERS
COTTON CULTIVATION
HARVESTING
CO2
VOCsWASTE WATER
ENERGY CO2
VOCs
CO2
VOCsWASTE WATER
CO2
VOCs
CO2
VOCsWASTE WATER
SPINNINGENERGYWATER
GINNINGENERGY CO2
SCOURING &BLEACHING
ENERGYWATER
BLEACHINGSOLUTION
DYEINGENERGYWATER
DYES
ENERGYHAND LABOR
ASSEMBLY
PURCHASING
CO2
ENERGYPACKAGING
CO2
PACKAGING
LONG TERM USEHUMAN ENERGY
LANDFILLENERGY CO2
CH4
SOLID WASTE
DISPOSAL
CO2BULK PACKAGING
DISTRIBUTION CENTER
STORES WORLDWIDE
ENERGYWOOD PALLETS
CARDBOARDPLASTICPR
OD
UCT
ION
USE
END
OF
LIFE
Etty BekeIND 487P/587P Sustainable Production MethodsProfessor: Frank MilleroSP2013
KIPLING HONEYBEE BACKPACK
KEYWORDSKipling
Honeybee Kipling BackpackWomen’s Backpack
ProductionMethods
NylonBrass
CopperZinc
PlasticMiningCotton
Faux LeatherSilicone
Strand FormingPolymerization
HardwarePlastic Hardware
VelcroBuckles
ClipsPOM
Electro PlatingCoagulation
SmeltingFroth Flotation
Die CastingInjection Molding
Land�llEmissions
HazardsAZODyes
ChemicalOrganic
StandardsRecyclingPrograms
OilEnvironment
ImpactSpill
ClothingTextile
CultivationSustainability
Social
SOURCES. Alexia Cohen, Process Tree. IND 587P Fall2012. Interview with Virginia Bañuelos. Product Manager, Flamenco. February 24th 2013. . Inteview with Annie McCourt. Contractor, Gap. March 31st 2013.. Lesko, Jim. Industrial Design, Materials & Manufacturing Guide. USA: John Wiley & Sons, Inc, 1999. Print.. Lewis Helen, and John Gertsakis. Design + Environment. USA: Green Leaf Publishing Limited. 2011. Print.. Ashby, Mike, and Kara Johnson. Materials & Design, The Art & Science of Material Selection in Product Design. USA: Buttersworth-Heinemann. 2002, 2010. Print. Np. Cotton From Field to Fabric, Yarn Production. National Cotton Council of America. http://www.cotton.org/pubs/cottoncounts/�eldtofabric/yarn.cfm. Np. Copper Production from Ore to Finish. Copper Development Association Inc. http://www.copper.org/education/production.html. Np. Cotton Production & Trade. Kew, Royal Botanic Garden. http://www.kew.org/plant-cultures/plants/cotton_production__trade.html. Np. Cotton Fibers. The University of Tennessee, Knoxville. http://web.utk.edu/~mse/Textiles/Cotton%20�bers.htm. Np. Brief on PU Synthetic Polyurethane Leather. Hunan Joejet New Materials Co., LTD. . http://www.joejet.cn/en/introduce002.html?introID=100009674. Np. Zinc. How Products are made. http://www.madehow.com/Volume-2/Zinc.html#b. Np. Land�ll Methane Outreach Program. EPA US Environmental Protection Agency. http://www.epa.gov/lmop/basic-info/index.html. Np. Category Overview (Buckles. Nifco. http://www.nifco.com/ctl/buckle/top_index.html. Np. REACH, European Community Regulation on chemicals and their safe use. http://ec.europa.eu/environment/chemicals/reach/reach_intro.htm. Np. REACH Brief. European Commissions Environment Directorate General. http://ec.europa.eu/environment/chemicals/reach/pdf/2007_02_reach_in_brief.pdf. Np. ECHA. European Chemicals Agency. http://echa.europa.eu/. Np. Green Chemistry & Commerce Council. http://www.greenchemistryandcommerce.org/. Np. The North Face 2011 Sustainability Report. The North Face. http://expeditionsustainability.com/waste/reducing-o�ce-waste.php. Np. The North Face Sustainability / Waste. http://www.thenorthface.com/en_US/innovation/sustainability/waste/. Np. Interface Reentry 2.0. https://www.interface�or.com/Default.aspx?Section=3&Sub=4&Ter=18.Np. Marks & Spencer Shwop Program. http://www.marksandspencer.com/Shwop/b/1672188031.Np. 6 Big Oil Spills, and what they cost. CNN. http://money.cnn.com/galleries/2010/fortune/1005/gallery.expensive_oil_spills.fortune/5.html.Np. Gulf War Oil Disaster. Counterspill. http://counterspill.com/article/gulf-war-oil-disaster-brief-history April 10, 2011.Np. Cotton Picking in China, Ecouterre. http://www.ecouterre.com/welcome-to-ecouterre/cottonpickingchina/.Np. Corporate Responsibility Across VF. VFC. http://www.vfc.com/corporate-responsibility/environmental/across-vf.Np. New Method Cleans Up Textile Industry’s Most Dangerous Chemicals. September 27th, 2011. Science Daily. http://www.sciencedaily.com/releases/2011/09/110926102803.htm.Np. Manual for the Implementation of the Global Organic Textile Standard. http://www.global-standard.org/images/stories/gots-manual_01march2011.pdf.Np. American Textile Recycling Services. http://atrscorp.com/.Np. How is cotton Recycled? Living Bag. http://www.living-bag.com/how_cotton.html .Np. I:CO. http://www.ico-spirit.com/en/about-ico/.Np.Eco-Gear. Comparative Study of the environmental impact of recycled cotton yarns vs conventional cotton yarns. http://www.eco-gear.ca/ecogear-Comparative-Study.pdf.Np. H&M Garment Collecting. http://about.hm.com/AboutSection/en/About/Sustainability/Commitments/Reduce-Reuse-Recycle/Garment-Collecting.html.Np. BASF Climate Protection. http://www.performancechemicals.basf.com/ev-wcms-in/internet/en_GB/portal/show-content_tc/content/EV/EV8/about_us/climate_protection.Np. Climatex Lifecyle. Designtex. http://www.designtex.com/climatex_Environments.aspx?f=36310.Np. Baggu Eco-Thics Info Sheet. Baggu, http://baggubag.com/static/Catalogs/Baggu_EcoEthicsSheet_2013.pdf.Np. Recycled Cotton, and Patagonia’s Examined Life. Treehugger Warren McLaren. http://www.treehugger.com/culture/recycled-nylon-and-patagonias-examined-life.html October 11th, 2007.Np. New Green Outdoor Fabrics from Toray. Treehugger. Warren McLaren. http://www.treehugger.com/sustainable-fashion/new-green-outdoor-fabrics-from-toray.html April 4th, 2007.Np. Recycle Your Blues. Gap Social Responsibility. http://www.gapinc.com/content/csr/html/Goals/environment/our_program_in_action/recycle_your_blues.html.Np. Fiber watch: nylon gets a new (recycled) life. Ecosalon. http://ecosalon.com/�ber-watch-re-vamping-nylon/ .Np. NILIT® Specialty Yarns & Brands » NILIT » Eco Fibers. Nilit Fabrics. http://www.nilit.com/�bers/brands-NILIT-ecocare.asp.Np. Mills and Sundries working group. The Business of a Better World. http://bsr.org/en/our-work/working-groups/apparel-mills-sundries.Np. H&M to boost organic cotton use by 50% in 2009. Andrea Donsky. January 30th, 2009. http://www.treehugger.com/style/hm-clothing-to-boost-organic-cotton-use-by-50-percent-in-2009.html.Np. Cotton Vs. Polyester. Coral Rose. http://coralrose.typepad.com/my_weblog/2008/07/polyester-vs-co.html July 30th, 2008
Market Research:http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kipling_(brand)http://www.kipling.com/int/http://www.vfc.com/ (VF Corporation)http://www.zappos.com/
RAW
MAT
ERIA
LS
ENERGYCRUDE OIL
EXTRACTION CO2
VOCs
PROCESS TREE
Etty BekeIND 487P/587P Sustainable Production MethodsProfessor: Frank MilleroSP2013
IN-HOUSE SUSTAINABILITY CULTUREUsing Rudyard’s literature and the culture of adventure, which originally inspired the creators of the brand, as a starting point to develop a culture of sustainability inside the company. Improve facilities, provide condi-tions for more sustainability practices, educate and set standards throughout company to incorporate sus-tainability in the conception, design, manufacturing, distribution and sale of product lines. Engage employ-ees with social and environmental causes, like Reef’s Redemption Paid Volunteer Plan.
By partnering with i:co, a company dedicated to used gar-ment collection and the development of a closed loop pro-duction cycle, Kipling can engage customers in its sustain-ability e�orts while working to develop a system that keeps products out of the land�lls.
The North Face, a sister company, has already established a Clothes The Loop program with i:co, which Kipling, and ulti-mately all other sister brands, could tag along. Customers are invited to bring in their used clothes and shoes and are given a voucher in exchange.
OUT OF THE LANDFILLS
Removal of 1”x5” Keychain Holder(POM, Cavnvas, Stainless Steel)
KIPLING HONEYBEE BAKCPACK
DEMATERIALIZATIONDetermine, through market research, all unused or unnecessary elements with-out comprimising the design of the product. Replace parts like interior zippers with snap buttons, keeping in mind less intensive production methods and striv-ing for disassembly.
PROPOSALS TO LESSEN ENVIRONMENTAL IMPACTSPROPOSALSThe following proposals encompass ideas related to the improvement of the physical qualities of the product and kinds of production methods used, as well as proposals related to systemic changes that touch on the company’s sustain-ability culture and its relation to the customer.
The Kipling brand is part of VF Corporation, a large consortium of companies, in-cluding Timberland, Nautica, Reef and The North Face which have already started di�erent kinds of sustainability programs. Through sister companies and the great access to facilities and technologies, these big name brands have the power to promote a higher production standard worldwide.
Removal of 3”x 4.5” Pencil Pocket(Nylon fabric)
Replacement of 7”L Interior Zipper with Snap Button Nylon fabric, Nylon coil, Stainless Steel.
RECYCLED COTTON CANVAS STRAPSAll cotton elements to be manufactured from recycled cotton, eliminating the great ecological impact on cultivation, harvesting and ginning of cotton.
RECYCLED CRINKLED NYLON FABRICUpgrading iconic Kipling crinkled nylon fabric by incorporating recycled nylon content.
IMPROVEMENT IN WATER AND ENERGY MANAGEMENTKipling’s use of dyes is guided by the European Legislation that bans many of the AZO Dyes. These set standards are higher than what is commonly used in many other parts of the world, including the US.
A next step would be to upgrade to more e�cient dyes. BASF Performance Chemicals greatly reduce the amount of water and energy used in the dying process.
In addition to this, the incorporation, once the technology is available, of waste water treatment that uses biological and chemical agents and lessens the impact on the environment. The research and application, by Maria Jon-strup from Lund University, is currently under development.
Baggu Backpack ethically made in China from 100% recycled cotton.
Patagonia developed, in con-juction with japanese factories, recycled nylon and polyester fabric for their products.