Eco-Tourism: Preserving South America’s Wilderness

Photos and Text by Adam Reichardt

Thanks to the people at

Ecolé, La Granja Organíca and Los Largartos

for being such gracious hosts.

Green has been on everyone’s mind lately. The movement towards more environe-

mentally friendly industry, energy, and lifestyles is growing stronger by the day. People desire to make less of an impact on the planet while still mantaining some of there tradi-tions. One being travel. People love to travel. Travel offers a chance to get away from the mundane hap-penings of their daily life, and enter into unknown territory. As people

destinations, they are beginning to question their impact on these coun-tries. With these concerns, enters the industry of ecological toruism or eco-tourism. The act of touring through a country while gaining education about the environment

I recently spent six months trav-eling as an eco-tourist through Chile and it’s neighboring countries. Go-

ing as a student, I was intent on ab-

Quickly I learned we are not that different. Focusing on environmen-talism, I was seeking to question the Chilean mindset regarding “green.” Many Chileans saw green as pride in their country’s world renwoned wilderness and biodiversity. Chile is long, narrow country with a climate that varies greatly, ranging from the world’s driest desert-the Atacama-in the north, through a Mediterra-nean climate in the centre, to a rainy temperate climate in the south. Most spoke of the tourists who came for this reason, to experience so many unique climates in a short time.

that we are experiencing here in the United States, has not yet proliferat-ed in Chile, but it certainly going in that direction. Chileans were more animated when discussing topics regarding the preservation of their wilderness, and what to do regard-ing polluting and destructive energy sources in the country.

Chile is gaining popularity on the global stage. South America relies heavily on the exporting of goods and Chile is a major player in this economic market. On an ex-change rate basis Brazil (the seventh

largest economy in the world and the second largest in the Americas) leads the way in total amount of exports at $137.8 billion dollars, followed by Chile at 58.12 billion [1]. In 2003 Chile signed a free trade agreement with the United States. This actions by the Chilean gov-ernment has the potential to bring Chile’s GDP to unprecedented levels, positioning to Chile as a great power in the global commu-nity. With this new role comes the responsibility towards their people and the global community to pre-serve their environment.

Within South America, Chile leads the GDP per capita at $14, With this new growth in wealth comes a growing middle class look-ing to emulate the spending and consumption habits of their neigh-bors to the north, the United States. As these South Americans spend more of their growing wealth on technology, goods and land, they will begin to confront many of the environmental issues that plague industrialized societies (waste, pol-lution, energy shortage and obesity). Frankly, many of these issues are already emerging in their society. Akin to the energy problems in the United States, Chile is creating high

Sunset over Seno Última Esperanza (Last Hope Sound) in Puerto Natales. This tiny little town is more or less regarded to be the basecamp town for one of Chile’s natural wonders, the mountian, Torres del Paine.

levels pollution due to their reliance on electricity produced with coal technology.

As global climate change gar-ners more attention in the interna-tional community, the pressure for renewable energy sources increases. Chile has mounting reasons for its own interest in alternative energy. Santiago experiences heavy layers of smog as a result of industry and automotives. These clouds of smog

-tions for the residents of Santiago. Moreover, the cloud’s toxic particles have the potential to travel to neigh-boring rural areas, affecting both the crops and water supplies.

Chile and Argentina’s aging electricity grid and limited energy sources make it increasingly dif-

growing populace as electricity de-mands grow. The president of Chile, Michelle Bachelet, signed a bill into

law that requires new energy con-

energy from non-traditional renew-able sources. The government has also paved the way for up to US$400 million to be spent on renewable en-ergy projects. In the meantime there is a large push by corporations such as ENDESA and Colbún S.A. to in-vest in more hydroelectric projects. Sixty percent of electricity genera-tion in Chile is based on imported fossil fuels (mostly natural gas and coal) and forty percent on domestic hydropower.

The Andes mountain range provides Chile with a rich source of hydropower. The

annual glacial melt swells Chile’s rivers providing its eight hydroelec-tric plants with around 3000 Mega-Watts (MW) of electricity. This pro-vides a whopping forty percent of Chile’s electricity energy. In compar-ison, Hydroelectricity is only seven percent of the United States energy production. With an expected an-nual increase of six to seven percent over the next ten years, That’s an annual increase on the order of 450 MW produced. Chile is confronted with the dilemma of whether to continue to pursue hydroelectric sources or invest in ecologically

sound energy sources. A massive hydropower su-

per project is planned for the Aysén region of Chile, which is part of the awe-inspiring scenery of Pa-tagonia. The companies ENDESA and Colbún S.A. have planned the HidroAysén project. In this joint

damns – two on the Baker River and three more on the Pascua – along with 1,500 miles of transmission

Patagonia’s natural parks offer a rare up close glimpse at varied wildlife. Here are the famous Alpaca (left) and Gray Fox (right). Both hiking and auto tours are offered through the park.

lines. The placing of the dams with-in these rivers will cause massive

of transmission lines a winding cor-ridor almost 400 feet wide must be cleared, destroying thousands miles of native forest [2]. In addition to the forest destruction, the towers are more than 200 feet high and will be a massive eye sore for those looking to gaze upon Patagonia’s majestic scenery. The visually and environ-mentally destructive elements of the project are being met with great

industries, as well as environmental activists.

Firstly, what are the positive as-pects of the project? In Chile in the next ten years, an annual increase of six to eight percent in electric-ity consumption is expected. This corresponds to an annual growth in power plant capacity on the order

of 450 MW. This growth in capacity is necessary if present consumption rates continue. If built this project is expected to have a capacity of over 2,750 MW, twenty percent of the na-tion’s current total. The urban and industrial areas around Santiago would consume some of it, but most is needed in the mining operations that lie further north. Those living

they should suffer for the produc-tion of electricity to be shipped up north.

In response to this project, envi-ronmental activists, affected indus-tries and villages have drafter a long list of negatives. To achieve proper function, hydroelectric dams must create a reservoir that submerges large swaths of land upstream.

riverside habitats, which are rich in biodiversity; the destruction is likely to cause ripples in other habitats as

Chile fears the repercussion of the dam on the salmon habitats. Stud-ies have shown that dams along the

America have reduced salmon populations by preventing access to spawning grounds upstream. Fish ladders that have been installed to

-

past the dams[4]. It is a rare mo-

environmental activists working together, this illustrates that giant impact the HidroAysén project will have on Chile.

With the present brown and blackouts occurring in Chilean towns and

cities, hydroelectric dams may be a necessary evil to allow the contin-ued development of Chile and its freedom from foreign energy de-pendence. Some in the economically depressed regions surrounding the proposed dam locations are eager to welcome the employment the dams will provide. Displacement of local populations is expected due

The Perito Moreno Glacier is the most visited glacier in the world (left). In fact located in the Argentinian town of El Calafate, many tourists travel over from Chile. The mountians of Chile’s central valley also offer a peak inside smaller glaciers. Here a ice waterfall is shown (right).

that adequate replacement housing will not be provided, in addition to the proper compensation of farm-land lost to the dams. Many in the tourism industries are worried that the power lines will dampen their industry, especially when they are trying to promote ecological tour-ism, or eco-tourism.

Sin Represas (Without Dams) is a collection of organizations seek-ing to put an end to the HidroAysén project. While noting the possibil-ity of employment for the region, Sin Represas reports an April 2008

percent of Chileans against the dams. Sin Represas implores Chile to focus their energies towards renewable power sources and eco-tourism; two avenues Sin Represas believes will provide the power and development needed to continue Chile’s development[3].

Concerning the displacement and destruction of people, Sin Represas stated “we at Sin Represas, and the people of Aysén, whose old-world existence may one day soon be destroyed by those old-world energy solutions.” The organization is referencing Chile’s strong pastoral communities who have subsisted on herding and agriculture for genera-tions and continue to do so today. These agricultural communities also provide a strong draw for eco-tour-ists, particularly their participation in the Worldwide Opportunities on Organic Farms (WWOOF) organi-zation.

WWOOF offers a rare possibil-ity to today’s increasingly urban generation, a chance for people to get out of the urban jungle and into the pastures and prairies where we

farms and eager volunteers across all seven continents, with a total of ninety-nine participating countries. WWOOF was originally started in 1971 by a London secretary look-ing to offer urban dwellers access to the countryside. Volunteering for a small farm puts you in touch with people who are following a lifestyle not chosen by many because of its arduous requirements, but as many

of these farmers will testify, its re-wards are great. One farmer would boast how long it had been since he had gone to town. Nearing the one-month mark, he wore his seclusion as a badge of honor, showing his true commitment to the land.

Chile has a strong agricul-ture history and currently exports forty-two percent

of its food to the Americas, thirty percent to Asia and twenty-four percent to Europe [2]. Gaining a 23 billion dollar trade surplus in 2006, the Chilean government invests a lot in industrial farms. With brands like Super Pollo, a subsidiary of Agricorps the largest industrial agriculture brand in Chile, com-manding 550 million US Dollars in yearly sales, competition is impos-sible for small organic farms. These farms can only realistically hope to supply local farmers markets and a

Sin Represas (Without Dams) com-mands large crowds during it’s many demonstrations in Santiago (left). The marches and demonstrations remain relatively peaceful with Chile’s police on patrol (right).

few stores. Francisco Rottman, the owner of the Chilean farm, Granja Organica, earns most of his income from the farm stand he operates off his property; selling around sixty-

-cent at a small store, Tienda Tierra Viva in Santiago Central. At the end of each harvest Rottman said he was just happy to break even.

Nearby Granja Organíca, the owners Manuel and Giulia Rodri-guez of the farm Los Lagartos (The Lizards) owners, have adapted a lifestyle devoted to farming in its simplest form and are trying to eliminate monetary transactions all together. Moving away from the air-conditioned tractor lifestyle that has come to dominate industrial farm-ing Manuel and Giulia are looking to develop a spiritual relationship with the land, allowing it to reward their devotion and hard labor with a bountiful harvest. Still they shared

their frustration with being entirely -

tor had broken down three months earlier and was still sitting unused. Their hope was a volunteer from WWOOF with mechanical skills would arrive and bring it back to life.

Manuel was very inventive with the limited tools in his pos-session. He was unable to afford a steel plow; I watched him instead fashion a plow out of pine branches and attach it to one of their horses. Though it cost no money it was still able to effectively till the soil and he left the larger stones for myself and the other WWOOFers. Innova-tions like this are necessary among the South American organic farm-ers. Without access to the growing organic market in the United States, Canada and Europe, these farmers have very little income.

Faced with the same income problems on La Granja Or-ganica, they too embraced

innovation. While strolling through their land, I found the chickens fenced in with the citrus trees. This is struck me as an odd place for the chickens, and when I asked Rottman about the odd pen, I was informed that their high nitrogen feces makes

for a great citrus fertilizer. As fertil-izer is expensive, any cost-saving technique is adopted.

Two interns visiting La Granja Organica from a local agricultural school introduced me to their fer-tilizer technique. Using chicken wire as a form, they layered animal waste, leaves, and any leftover or-ganic food scraps to create a putrid parfait. Most important was the staff left in the center, which would be pulled out once the fertilizer settled so as to allow air to circulate and feed the aerobic bacteria which de-composing material. Taking three to

allows La Granja Organic to save money and avoid buying expensive organic fertilizers.

“organic.” For many it’s a matter of choice, due to the high price of seeds and extremely hardy pesticides. The

any lost crops. Those at Los Lagartos -

cides sprayed on nearby farms being

surrounding labeling of an organic food is another issue arresting the proliferation of organic farmers.

The horses of Los Lagartos are alowed to run wild, considering the thick brush of the surrounding native forests keep them contained. Here Giulia’s favorite black stallion can be seen trotting to-wards the watering hole.

These farmers are a strong foothold in the rural communities of central and southern Chile. These are the communities that would

eco-tourism options in and around these areas. The income brought in from tourism, would go a long way in preserving the land, and the agricultural way of life followed by many in Chile. There are many who support eco-tourism, including governmental actors, environmental activists, and the farmers mentioned above. The problem now is getting these different actors to work to-gether.

Chile has garnered international support for their bid to provide ecologically sound options for visi-tors to their county. With help from the United Nations Development Programme (UNDP), Chile’s Na-tional Environment Commission (CONAMA) has planned an 8,000

kilometers trail, The Chilean Trail, from Visviri, on the northern Chil-ean border with Peru and Bolivia, to Cape Horn, the southern tip of South America. This trail will be one of the longest pathways in the world for hiking or tours on bicycle

sustainable development initia-tives was inaugurated on April 7, 2005 in the town of Requinoa, some 100 kilometers south of Santiago. CONAMA and UNDP signed an agreement in late 2004 to provide

for a total investment of 310,000 dol-lars. Irene Philippi, UNDP resident representative in Chile described the project as ‘’on the path of eco-tourism and sustainability.’’ ‘’It

greater value to the Chilean Trail, bring revenues into its communities and protect the environment.’’ This push shows the governments com-mitment to eco-tourism. If the gov-ernment combines their power with the devotion of it’s people, eco-tour-ism can become a viable and strong industry for Chile.

South of Santiago lies the lake region of Chile. The amazing landscape and diverse choices

of activities has made this region a

major travel and eco-tourism draw for both Chileans and Foreigners alike. Many of the parks contain millenarian forests and have at-tracted biologists on a search for the world’s oldest trees long before the arrival tourists. Those less interested in science, go to towns such as Vall-rica and Pucón for stunning vistas, native wildlife, and adventure. I was fortunate to grab a few days away from Santiago and sample a sliver of this region at the small vil-lage of Pucón. In Pucón, tourists are able to spend all their time lounging by one of the many lakes, rafting on the rivers, soaring through the canopy on zip-lines or for the truly

-cano, Volcan Vallrica, to gaze into its smoking chasm. I opted for some-thing a tad less strenuous, or so I believed.

Through the hostel, Ecolé, I dis-covered the Cani Sanctuary; a model for conservation and its potential in Chile. Found in the Huerquehue National Park, Cani offers a six-hour hike through a well-marked path ac-companied by photo-friendly wild-life and plenty of cows. Ecolé has long held a stake in the Sanctuary. The original forty-two co-owners, both foreigners and locals, were all

The land of Los Lagartos provided con-stant activity for volunteer WWOOFers. Freshly planted avocado trees required covering at night to protect against cold. Waiting till sunrise to remove the pro-tective covers.

conservation-minded people com-ing down to Chile to build trails in the Cani. One of the original found-ers, Tracy Katelman, described the

born out of the desire for a clean bed and warm meal when they got off the trail each day. So they con-verted their old haunt, Don Pepe’s, into an eco-minded hostel with an organic vegetarian restaurant. Some of the guidebooks claim the vegetar-ian food is better than that of San Francisco and New York.

Ecolé and its owners have been a strong force in the surrounding areas. In August 2008 they managed to suspend a developer’s decision to dam up a river delta in Cola Cola, in

Through their hostel they are trying to get people out to the Cani and educate them about the wildlife. Katelman said it was “time to put

our money where our mouth is and move forward the environmental tourism agenda.”

Through their vegetarian res-taurant, the hostelowners have been hard-pressed to start a change in they way food is handled in Chile. Katelman discussed her worries with “promoting [Ecolé] as an or-ganic restaurant.” Many of the local crops are being infested by the Pilme beetle, a “strong little critter” that as of now can only be stopped by chemical pesticide. Though she did mention a neighbor who had a homegrown recipe consisting of old cigarette butts, which may be a possible remedy to the infesta-tion. With the beetle infestation, the farmers also have a problem with meeting food demands. They just cannot produce enough to provide Ecolé and other organic restaurants. Katelman spoke of an attempt by the Komkellayen organization to pull together Mapuche, those indig-enous to central Chile, producers and possibly win a national grant, but unfortunately the plan fell apart. Many of the small growers also suf-fer from logistical problems, such as distribution. She believes, “Chile is at least twenty years behind the [United States]” when it comes to

organic growing. More income and organization is needed to advance the organic agenda.

Katelmen continued to express her frustration with being more en-vironmental. “It’s hard to be really Eco in Chile…[we’ve] made a real effort to recycling and composting going in Pucón.” By showing an interest in recycling, now people are coming by to pick up Ecolé’s wine bottles. Ecolé also has the obligatory low-energy light bulbs. They do not change the sheets, but instead offer sleeping bags for renting. During the winter, the hostel is heated by wood stove. Looking to improve their hostel more, the co-owners of Ecolé had planned to install solar panels and create a yoga studio, as well as a laundry room. Due to the economic crisis that has shocked the world, however, they have had to put the plan on hold for the time being.

Ecolé is certainly a testament to the changing mindset in Chile, but also shows how far

they have to go. Alas, it is essential to plant the seeds of conservation in developing countries. More so, this is not an example of the “enlight-ened westerner” coming into the country and dictating was is right,

Manuel was trained as a chef before becoming an organic farmer. Visitors were treated daily to delicious meals prepared with ingredients grown right outside. The only outside purchases were sugar and butter.

but an example of both local Chil-eans and foreigners working side by side to preserve this beautiful

tourists, dedicated locals can use the income to educate tourists on the

to keep it going.

Volunteer work is a large draw for eco-tourists as it offers the excitement of a foreign country while offering tourists a chance to give something other than economic support. Many organizations offer programs connect-ing tourists with local or international groups. One such group I became involved with is the international organization, Habitats for Humanity. They were working in Santiago to aid lower class families in need of more space due to special cases. I met the father of one of these families, who was happy to have Habitats for Humanity

build an addition to his house for his ill daughter. Habitat for Humanity’s volunteer coordinator, informed me the existing space of the house was unsuit-able for the betterment of the daugh-ter’s health.

Habitat for Humanity organized Chilean students from a local trade school along with a British volunteer to build the additional room. Gareth Rich-

was looking to travel around South America and thought this would serve as a good introduction to the culture and an opportunity to learn Spanish. Many of these volunteer tourists are jaded from the sanitized tourists trails and prefer to get to know a city from the bottom up. This is considered eco-tourism, as it doesn’t negatively impact the environment of the destination. Giving back to the community instead of isolating yourself in a high-class resort, offers more to the people.

Organizations like WWOOF and Habitat for Humanity provide outlets for tourists

and local alike to reach out to both an urban and rural community showing devotion to their fellow human beings. People like Tracy Katelmen, Francisco Rottman, and Manuel and Giulia Rodriguez are the driving force behind the grassroots movement; they are

pushing for more conservation in Chile and setting a trend for all of South America. Their model of dedication to the environmental cause is what is motivating larger organizations like Sin Repreasas to combat the destructive plans of the HidroAysén project.

The support of eco-tourists is what is pushing to keep global environ-ments pure. As global superpowers outsource their pollution and waste to

second and third world counties, it’ll be eco-tourists who give these nations a reason to refuse. Restoring pride it a nation’s wilderness, eco-tourists can provide the income needed for people to pursue ecologically sound paths of development. All the while, it is essen-tial that these tourists remember that they are not superior, and must work alongside the locals in preserving the environment and it’s natural beauties.

British volunteer, Gareth Tye, is being taught how to tile by a Chilean student from a local trade school (left). The lan-guage barrier led to most lessons tak-ing twice as long as expected. Newly sprouted plants on La Granja Organíca ware kept in a warehouse until ready for planting (right).

References

[1] – United States. Department of State. Bureau of Western Hemisphere Affairs. Background Note: Chile. 12 April 2010. [2] – International Rivers. “HidroAy-sén’s Severly Flawed Environmental Study.” August 2008. [3] – Sin Represas. “The Struggle.” 2009. [4] – Portland General Electric. “San-dy River – Marmot Dam’s removal in 2007 has returned the Sandy River

2009

Outside Chile, Tourist attractions like Peru’s Maachu Pichu foster detbates over tourism and its potential dam-age to historical treasures (left). Still, impoverised cities like La Paz, Bolivia earn many tourist dollars from this tourism (right). The push towards more eco-friendly tourism continues in Chile’s northern neighbors.