Donald Stull & Michael BroadwayDonald Stull & Michael Broadway

(Ch. 4, (Ch. 4, Slaughterhouse BluesSlaughterhouse Blues))

Hog Heaven: Hog Heaven: The Pork IndustryThe Pork Industry

Road to PorkopolisRoad to Porkopolis

Pigs used to run free on family Pigs used to run free on family farms & scavenge for wild farms & scavenge for wild roots, vegetables, grassesroots, vegetables, grassesHogs were the major meat source for Hogs were the major meat source for Americans from colonial times until the Americans from colonial times until the 1950s (when beef overtook pork)1950s (when beef overtook pork)Piglet gains 1 lb. for every 3-5 lbs. feed Piglet gains 1 lb. for every 3-5 lbs. feed & produces a litter of 10 (gestation = & produces a litter of 10 (gestation = 4 mo.), is ready for market in 6 mos.4 mo.), is ready for market in 6 mos.Calf gains 1 lb. for 10 lbs. feed & Calf gains 1 lb. for 10 lbs. feed & produces a single calf (9 mo. produces a single calf (9 mo. gestation) & is ready for market in gestation) & is ready for market in 12 mos. 12 mos.

““Queen City of the West”Queen City of the West”

Cincinnati’s 1st meatpacking Cincinnati’s 1st meatpacking plant opened in 1818plant opened in 1818

Dominated pork packing until Dominated pork packing until the Civil Warthe Civil War

1844 Porkopolis boasted 26 1844 Porkopolis boasted 26 packinghousespackinghouses

1854 42 packinghouses1854 42 packinghouses

““Hog Killing Time”Hog Killing Time”Hogs slaughtered fall/winter—no Hogs slaughtered fall/winter—no refrigerationrefrigeration

Winter was the farmers’ ice box, thus Winter was the farmers’ ice box, thus meatpacking was seasonal until meatpacking was seasonal until refrigeration developed after the refrigeration developed after the Civil War Civil War

Hogs were cleaned & gutted, cooled, Hogs were cleaned & gutted, cooled, cut up, salted & soaked in brine or cut up, salted & soaked in brine or vinegarvinegar

Entrails dumped into the Ohio RiverEntrails dumped into the Ohio River

Pork MarketsPork MarketsPork was exported to Caribbean & Pork was exported to Caribbean & EuropeEurope

10% of U.S. foreign trade in late 10% of U.S. foreign trade in late 1870s1870s

1880 Europe banned U.S. pork due 1880 Europe banned U.S. pork due to fear of trichinosisto fear of trichinosisExports resumed when the Exports resumed when the government introduced meat government introduced meat inspection in 1890inspection in 1890But meat for U.S. consumers was But meat for U.S. consumers was not inspected for 10 more yearsnot inspected for 10 more years

Hog Heaven or Hell?Hog Heaven or Hell?For family farmers hog production For family farmers hog production was an easy way to earn cashwas an easy way to earn cashHog nickname – “mortgage Hog nickname – “mortgage burner”burner”But by 1990-2000, family farmers But by 1990-2000, family farmers were being replaced by CAFOswere being replaced by CAFOs$5 million investment in contract $5 million investment in contract production would generate 40-50 production would generate 40-50 new jobsnew jobsBut 120-150 family farmers were But 120-150 family farmers were displaceddisplaced

Luring CAFOsLuring CAFOsHog production began to shift from corn Hog production began to shift from corn belt states to North Carolina, Oklahoma, belt states to North Carolina, Oklahoma, & Utah& Utah

North Carolina Dept. of Agriculture & NC North Carolina Dept. of Agriculture & NC State University identified swine State University identified swine production as a desireable replacement production as a desireable replacement for tobaccofor tobacco

State government provided research State government provided research funds, gave tax incentives, hog farms funds, gave tax incentives, hog farms were exempt from zoning & minimum were exempt from zoning & minimum wage regulations, workers were banned wage regulations, workers were banned from organizing unionsfrom organizing unions

Environmental racismEnvironmental racism

2514 swine CAFOS in North 2514 swine CAFOS in North Carolina were disproportionately Carolina were disproportionately located in poor, nonwhite located in poor, nonwhite communities that depend on communities that depend on local wells for water supplylocal wells for water supply

Hurricane Floyd (1999) caused Hurricane Floyd (1999) caused flood waters to overrun hog flood waters to overrun hog farms, inundating 46 lagoons, farms, inundating 46 lagoons, polluting water systemspolluting water systems

Conflict Over CAFOsConflict Over CAFOsProponents: the system is Proponents: the system is driven by consumer preference driven by consumer preference for uniform low-cost porkfor uniform low-cost porkCritics: Superior feed conversion Critics: Superior feed conversion is only possible due to is only possible due to antibiotics, nutritional antibiotics, nutritional supplements, & the stress hogs supplements, & the stress hogs experience in experience in confinement leads confinement leads to lower feed to lower feed conversionconversion

A sign at the entrance to three A sign at the entrance to three hog barns at one of the Ham Hill hog barns at one of the Ham Hill Farms sites warns visitors that Farms sites warns visitors that the site is a "biosecure the site is a "biosecure protection area." protection area."

A virus introduced into a CAFO A virus introduced into a CAFO can spread quicklycan spread quickly

Raising HogsRaising HogsIn CAFOs, 100 hogs of similar weight In CAFOs, 100 hogs of similar weight are in a room, each in a metal stall, are in a room, each in a metal stall, with no room to turn aroundwith no room to turn around In the nursery, sows occasionally In the nursery, sows occasionally smother & crush their offspringsmother & crush their offspringMale semen is collected to inseminate Male semen is collected to inseminate sows who produce 2 litters of 10-12 sows who produce 2 litters of 10-12 piglets/yearpiglets/yearNew litters have their ears notched New litters have their ears notched (for I.D.), tails clipped, teeth filed(for I.D.), tails clipped, teeth filed

They will bite others’ tails, causing They will bite others’ tails, causing infection that can spreadinfection that can spread

As hogs grow, they are sequentially As hogs grow, they are sequentially moved to larger rooms until they moved to larger rooms until they reach slaughter weight of 250 lbs.reach slaughter weight of 250 lbs.

Pig EssensePig EssensePigs don’t sweat Pigs don’t sweat (no sweat glands) (no sweat glands)When they are deprived of mud When they are deprived of mud holes or shelter & temperatures holes or shelter & temperatures exceed 86exceed 8600, they wallow in their , they wallow in their own feces & urine to avoid heat own feces & urine to avoid heat strokestrokeFeces & urine are pumped into Feces & urine are pumped into lagoons or are used as compostlagoons or are used as compostA hog produces 1.5 tons of solid A hog produces 1.5 tons of solid manure & 5270 gal. of liquid manure & 5270 gal. of liquid manure/yearmanure/year

Swine CAFOSwine CAFO

Manure Holding PondManure Holding PondWaste samples being collected Waste samples being collected from a swine manure holding from a swine manure holding pond in Iowa pond in Iowa

Hog lagoons emit ammonia, Hog lagoons emit ammonia, hydrogen sulfide, 100s of volatile hydrogen sulfide, 100s of volatile organic compounds, dust, organic compounds, dust, endotoxins (cause respiratory endotoxins (cause respiratory dysfunctions in workers) into the dysfunctions in workers) into the airair

Miss Piggy’s New FrontiersMiss Piggy’s New FrontiersAs North Carolina As North Carolina mandated cleanup & mandated cleanup & conversion to cleaner technologies, conversion to cleaner technologies, CAFOs began to relocateCAFOs began to relocateManitoba’s agricultural minister Manitoba’s agricultural minister proposed doubling pork proposed doubling pork productionproductionOffered an “open market” system Offered an “open market” system allowing processors to contract with allowing processors to contract with individuals, waived clean individuals, waived clean environment commission hearingsenvironment commission hearings

North Carolina 1982-97: North Carolina 1982-97: farms under 100 hogs: 9149farms under 100 hogs: 9149 12391239

farms over 1000 hogs: 458 farms over 1000 hogs: 458 14661466

Maple Leaf Foods Maple Leaf Foods (Canadian transnational)(Canadian transnational)

2000 workers2000 workers

Slaughter 15,000 hogs/daySlaughter 15,000 hogs/day

O-o-o-Oklahoma!O-o-o-Oklahoma!(Big pig invades (Big pig invades

“cattle feeding capital of the “cattle feeding capital of the world”)world”)

Oklahoma lured hog productionOklahoma lured hog productionGave land, tax incentives, sales tax, Gave land, tax incentives, sales tax, highway improvementshighway improvements

Seaboard Corporation Seaboard Corporation (transnational)(transnational)

Slaughters 16,000 hogs/daySlaughters 16,000 hogs/day

Contract farms construct Contract farms construct 3 confinement buildings @ $500,000 3 confinement buildings @ $500,000 on10-year contracts on10-year contracts

91% of workers earn under $25,00091% of workers earn under $25,000

Seaboard provides 2800 jobsSeaboard provides 2800 jobs9 of 10 workers are Hispanic9 of 10 workers are HispanicHispanic population tripled Hispanic population tripled

12% in 1990 to 38% in 200012% in 1990 to 38% in 2000Meatpacking work involves an annual Meatpacking work involves an annual turnover rate of 98%turnover rate of 98%# Families in poverty increased# Families in poverty increasedLack of housing at affordable rateLack of housing at affordable rateLack of health careLack of health careMany who came can not afford to live Many who came can not afford to live therethere