DO IT YOURSELF - PurchaseGreen

DO ITYOURSELF

T H E

EASY INSTALLATIONGUIDE

© 2019 Purchase Green - a division of Path to Prosperity, Inc.

The Do It Yourself Easy Installation Guide

Nature's Sod Plush

Table of Contents Getting Started

Introduction.............................................................................................................................

Buying and Receiving Your Grass..........................................................................................

DIY Installation Overview........................................................................................................

Step-by-Step Installation for Basic Home Lawn

Example Projects .....................................................................................................................

Edge Treatments and Options ...............................................................................................

Basic Installation Technique....................................................................................................

Premium Installation Technique.............................................................................................

Job Site Preparation..................................................................................................................

Sub-Grade Bend-a-Board.........................................................................................................

Sub-Base.....................................................................................................................................

Installing Your Grass.................................................................................................................

Finishing Up................................................................................................................................

Frequently Asked Questions....................................................................................................

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So you want to install artificial grass? Not only are you closer to lower water bills, you're also helping to protect the environment and reclaim precious free time – all while ensuring that your lawn looks impeccable year-round. Artificial grass from Purchase Green allows you to:

Introduction

This means we're able to offer homeowners the best artificial grass at the best price at more locations than any other distributor, all with the best customer service in the industry. How do we do it? It's simple really. We buy in bulk, have low overhead and keep a massive, in-stock inventory so that you - our customers - end up with exceptional savings without having to sacrifice convenience or customer service.

Save time and energy on lawn maintenanceReduce water and energy costs associated with lawn upkeepEnjoy a great-looking lawn all yearBe environmentally responsibleApply for local and state programs that reward homeowners with rebates and cash incentives for installing artificial grass

We have the largest artificial grass distribution network with locations throughout the U.S. as well as drop ship programs all over the world.

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https://www.purchasegreen.com/artificial-grass/artificial-grass-products/artificial-grass-yarn-types/




Get your grass how you want it, when you want it

Buying and Receiving Your Grass

In-PersonVisit one of our many locations and our friendly staff with help you choose the perfect grass. Shop OnlineAll our products are available online and feature same-day shipping. Will-Call Pick UpBuy online and you can pick up at your nearest Purchase Green store. DeliveryWe'll deliver right to your curb on one of our corporately-owned trucks.

Our LocationsWe're growing fast and adding new locations all the time.

Visit www.purchasegreen.com/locations for an up-to-date list of our showrooms

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DIY Installation Overview

1. Site WalkWalk around the site and take a quick survey of the area and surroundings. Pre-planning helps ensure an easy and successful installation. Clear the work area, set up and stage tools for easy access, and create a pathway to the area in which you'll be working. 2. ExcavationExcavate the project area to a depth of at least 3 inches. A sod cutter can make quick work of large area while hand tools can be used for smaller areas. This is also the time to make any necessary changes to irrigation, drainage or other underground elements. 3. Sub-Grade Bend-a-BoardOnce the project area has been excavated, it's time to install sub-grade Bend-a-Board. The use of a sub-grade, composite Bend-a-Board enables you to secure the artificial grass in the most robust fashion while providing the most natural appearance. The Bend-A-Board is secured in place with 12-inch composite redwood stakes set approximately every three feet. 4. Add Layer of Geotextile FabricAn optional step but highly recommended for projects in clay soil, a geotextile fabric will help prevent sub-base contamination and help prevent weeds and roots from encroaching. 5. Build a Sub-BaseFill the excavated area with a crushed rock, a crushed miscellaneous base (CMB), a Class II road base, or a decomposed granite (DG) base to create a sub-base. The sub-base should be approximately 3-4 inches deep. 5



DIY Installation Overview

6. Base CompactionThe goal here is to create a smooth surface with defined edges. Use a vibratory plate compactor to compact your sub-base. Leave a space of ¾ inch below the hardscape edge. Use a hand tamper to compact less accessible areas and corners.

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7. Measure, Prep and Lay GrassRoll out your grass and let it rest in the sun for at least one hour. This will help it soften and making cutting and installing easier. If your project requires seaming, begin by measuring and cutting the largest piece first. Remember, measure twice, cut once! Cut off the "selvage" from the leading edge of the grass. Add a final layer of geotextile fabric, overlapping strips secured with nails,

8. SeamingIf your installation requires seaming, be sure to use seam tape and glue to attach the two pieces. For inline seams, cut the pieces so when they're adjacent you match the gauge (the area between stitch rows). For butt seams, cut across the stitch rows and align the two pieces to be seamed. Secure the seam using Purchase Green's Supreme Seam glue and seaming tape. Tape and glue is the best way to seam artificial grass. 9. Secure the Edges and FieldUsing a hammer and chisel, go around the perimeter and lightly

before beginning to install your grass.

tuck the grass edge in between the sub-grade Bend-a-Board and the surrounding hardscape. Secure the turf to the sub-grade Bend-a-Board with a pneumatic stapler. Use 5 inch, non-galvanized nails every 3-6 inches around the perimeter as well as every 3 square feet within the interior. Spread the blades when nailing so no fibers are caught under the nail head.

10. Infill and Finishing TouchesNow that the grass is laid out flat and attached, use a drop spreader to evenly spread 1-2 pound(s) of infill per square foot, raking it into the thatch of the turf using a plastic bristle broom such as Purchase Green's Turf Broom. You'll achieve the best results by periodically stopping the application of infill to rake in what's been deposited so far. Be sure to rake the infill deep into the grass fibers. Once the deposited infill has been evenly distributed, continue with the drop spreader until the 1-2 pounds per square foot goal has been reached. For edges and corners, application by hand may be necessary.



Example Projects

When installing synthetic grass, follow best practices to ensure your lawn performs properly and lasts a long time. Before starting your project, consider the various types of edges with which you’ll be working. Also make note of your project’s drainage requirements. Both of these considerations affect the labor required as well as the amount and type of project materials you’ll need. PHOTO A shows a yard that that was created in an open area without any hard edges (e.g., driveways, walkways, patios, fencing, decking). Instead, the grass in surrounded by bark. The edge treatment supports the base materials, provides for a solid edge around the outer perimeter and cleanly defines the grass edges. PHOTO B shows a front yard project where the natural lawn was replaced with artificial grass except for the small paver area in the front. The existing irrigation system was capped off. All edges are butting up to some type of hard edge. When estimating for hard edges, additional synthetic grass material is typically needed. This is due to the fact we recommend over-measuring hard edges so you have enough working room to ensure a perfect fit along these edges. You don’t want to wind up with grass that is a few inches short of your edges.

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Soft edges do not butt up against any hard element and allow your project

significant design flexibility.

Hard edges butt up against elements that can't be moved. The artificial grass

will need to be hand-trimmed to accommodate these edges.

PHOTO C shows an artificial grass project used to stabilize and clean up a side yard. This yard uses a drainage system with 3-inch corrugated, flexible pipe and inline drain catch basins. Water runoff travels down the structure’s gutters and downspouts through the attached fittings and underground drain system. To ensure optimal drainage, we recommend using base materials to achieve gravity-fed drainage that flows down through porous artificial grass layers to a properly engineered drainage system that requirements.

meets your local code

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Edge Treatment and Options

Patio and Flagstones:These can sit nicely on top of synthetic turf and help to create great contrasts. Invest in stones that are sturdy and will sit at least 1/2 to 1 inch below the turf pile height. Between Concrete Slabs and Pads:Drainage is the most important aspect of this design treatment. Several inches of drain rock at the base layer, set prior to the installation of compacted materials, can improve drainage. Against Concrete Walkways and Drives:Grasses are cut to the exact shape of the hard edge so you get a perfect fit. Grasses can be set below, at or above the grade of the concrete, depending on the final look and feel you wish to achieve. On Top of Concrete:Synthetic grass makes any concrete area appear soft and natural. It will also help to reduce glare from light-colored driveways and patios. The edge can be cut into any shape. Grass installed on concrete should be glued down with Purchase Green’s Supreme Seam glue or, for temporary projects, adhered using Purchase Green’s double-sided sticky tape. Natural Rock:Grasses can be tucked and secured under any rock material. Use sturdy, durable fabrics to protect against erosion and for underground pest control. Loose, decorative rocks, stones and lava are an attractive finish to synthetic grass edges. Blocks and Pavers:Trimming with hard elements in areas where natural growth, weeds or other organic material will touch the turf is a great way to provide a solid edge from between native plants and your new artificial grass.

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Basic Installation Technique

1. Excavate 3-5 inches of the native soil; an optional weed barrier may be laid down on top of the excavated area. 2. Fill the excavated area with a crushed rock base to create a sub-base. The sub-base should be approximately 3-4 inches deep and compacted to 95% using a vibratory plate compactor. Leave a space of ¾ inch below the hardscape edge. 3. Unroll grass and allow it to be exposed to sunlight for at least two hours. This will help the backing to become more pliable and for the grass blades to stand up straight. 4. A weed barrier may be laid down on top of the sub-base. If adding a weed barrier, overlap the edges and nail into place using 5 inch, non-galvanized nails. Trim the edges to fit the project area. 5. Now it’s time to install your grass. If your installation requires seaming, be sure to use seam tape and glue to attach the two pieces. Secure the seam into place with 5 inch, non-galvanized nails every 6 inches on both sides (staggered by 3 inches on either side) of the seam. Secure the turf by using 5 inch, non-galvanized nails every 3-6 inches around the perimeter, about 1/2 inch away from the hard concrete edge, as well as every 3 square feet within the interior. 6. Now that the grass is laid out flat and attached, use a drop spreader to evenly spread 1-1.5 pound(s) of infill per square foot, raking it into the thatch of the turf.

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Premium Installation Technique

1. Excavate 3-5 inches of the native soil; an optional weed barrier may be laid down on top of the excavated area. 2. Fill the excavated area with a crushed rock base to create a sub-base. The sub-base should be approximately 3-4 inches deep and compacted to 95% using a vibratory plate compactor. Leave a space of 2.5 inches below the hardscape edge. You will add more sub-base after installing bend-a-board. 3. Unroll grass and allow it to be exposed to sunlight for at least two hours. This will help the backing to become more pliable and for the grass blades to stand up straight. 4. Lay the bend-a-board around the entire perimeter, leaving about 1/4 inch between your concrete edge and the bend-a-board itself, and about 1/2 inch before reaching the height of the outer perimeter. The bend-a-board is held in place with 12 inch composite stakes, five stakes per bend-a-board, held together by nailing or screwing the stake into the bend-a-board. 5. After the bend-a-board is in place, continue to evenly lay out the crushed rock base within the bend-a-board perimeter, leaving 1/4 inch before reaching the top of the bend-a-board, compacting this down as you go. 6. Use about 1/4 inch of decomposed granite to level the area, be sure to compact this evenly. Your sub-base and the bend-a-board should now be flush, about 1/2 inch below the hard concrete edge. 7. A weed barrier may be laid down on top of the sub-base. If adding a weed barrier, overlap the edges and nail into place using 5 inch, non-galvanized nails. Trim the edges to fit the project area. 8. Now it’s time to install your grass. If your installation requires seaming, be sure to use seam tape and glue to attach the two pieces. Secure the seam into place with 5 inch, non-galvanized nails every 6 inches on both sides (staggered by 3 inches on either side) of the seam. Secure the turf by using 5 inch, non-galvanized nails every 3-6 inches around the perimeter, about 1/2 inch away from the hard concrete edge, as well as every 3 square feet within the interior. 9. Now that the grass is laid out flat and attached, use a drop spreader to evenly spread 1-2 pound(s) of infill per square foot, raking it into the thatch of the turf.

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Job Site Preparation

Be sure to create an installation plan. An example is shown at right. Take care to make note of, and reroute if needed, underground utility lines. Site PrepIf your installation site is not defined by hard edges, start your project by setting outer perimeter marks for the project area using marking paints, stakes and tapes. This will define the site’s outer edges for preparation and material installation. Remove all organic materials. Organic material left under the installed surfaces will decompose, which may lead to failures. Organic materials include, but are not limited to: Sod, grass, weeds, roots (live or dead), bark, nuts, fruits and leaves. For projects with hard edges, ensure the edges are clean to the proper depth, which is approximately 3 to 4 inches below grade. All root systems within the project area should be thoroughly removed. Purchase Green recommends using Weed Barrier to create a layer between your native soil and your sub-base. Weed Barrier will also help enhance stabilization and add further protection against rodents and burrowing creatures/insects. The Weed Barrier should be installed over the entire project area. The Weed Barrier strips should overlap by 6 to 12 inches. Ensure your Weed Barrier has as few wrinkles as possible to allow

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for optimal sub-surface drainage. Sub-surface fabrics like Weed Barrier will also help add dimensional stability to your artificial grass project.



Sub-Grade Bend-a-Board

Using sub-grade Bend-A-Board for your artificial grass installation is optional but recommended. The sub-grade Bend-A-Board in artificial grass serves a structural purpose – as a nail board along the perimeter of your project to provide a more robust installation.The use of a sub-grade, composite Bend-A-Board enables you to secure the artificial grass in the most robust fashion while providing the most natural appearance.The Bend-A-Board is secured in place with 12-inch composite redwood stakes set approximately every three feet. The composite stakes are screwed into the Bend-A-Board. This holds the Bend-A-Board in place and at the proper elevation. The top of your Bend-A-Board should be even with the top of your sub-base. When installing the Bend-A-Board, leave a half inch gap between the Bend-A-Board and any constructed restraints (sidewalks, patios, walkways, etc.). When installing your grass, you will be able to use a hammer and chisel to tuck your grass edges into this gap, which will create a much more natural look. In addition, we recommend that the top of your Bend-A-Board and the top of your sub-base should be about a half-inch below any adjacent sidewalks, patios, and walkways. You want to maximize the amount of pile height that is above adjacent flat work for the most realistic appearance. Adding the Bend-A-Board step in the installation process usually adds about $0.30 per square foot to the total job cost.

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Sub-Base

As noted in the Basic and Premium Installation Techniques, your project truly begins with the building of your sub-base. You should aim for a sub-base depth of at least 2 to 3 inches. When your project area is excavated and all organic material has been removed, add your sub-base material from back to front, feathering the material evenly over the project site. A landscape rake is ideal for this task. There are two basic materials

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Purchase Green recommends for building your sub-base. For landscape projects, a crushed miscellaneous base or Class II road base are adequate. For putting greens, decomposed granite is preferable due to the very flat finish it provides. With the sub-base material deposited and distributed, lightly wet the material with a hose. Next, use a vibratory plate compactor to compact the sub-base. Use slow, overlapping passes to compact the sub-base. For hard to reach areas, use a hand tamper. Ideally, you want to compact the sub-base so it is about 3/4 inch below the hardscape edge. The will help your new grass look its best and most natural. A good rule of thumb with compaction is that you should compact until footprints are no longer visible after walking on the sub-base



Installing Your Grass

Prior to installing your artificial grass, unroll your grass and let it rest in the sun for at least one hour. This will help the grass blades stand up and make the backing easier to cut. If your project is using only one piece of turf, you may now bring it to the project site. If your project requires multiple pieces of turf, begin by bringing the largest piece to the job site and then follow with progressively smaller pieces. When laying your turf, take note of the grain. The grain should face the street in front yard projects and face the house in backyard projects. Projects that will use more than one piece of synthetic turf will require seaming. To prepare your grass for seaming, lay your turf grass side down. Using a carpet knife or cushion back cutter, cut of the “selvage”, the 3 to 4 inches of backing material at the outer edges. Before making any additional cuts, check the backing of the turf to ensure the stitch rows are well coated with (depending on the grass) polyurethane or latex. Grass blades in under-coated stitch rows are easy to pull out and will make your seam weak, visible and prone to failure. If such stitch rows exist, cut them off. There are two types of seams - butt fit seams and inline seams. Butt fit seams are when pieces to be seamed have parallel stitch rows. Inline seams are when the pieces to be seamed have perpendicular stitch rows. The key to hiding a seam with butt fit seams is

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accurately matching the stitch rows. For inline seams the key is matching the gauge, or the space between stitch rows. Trim the pieces to be seamed so they fit together. Always conduct a dry seam test to ensure fit prior to adding seaming tape and glue. If you see a light-colored line when testing, your stitch rows are too far apart. If you see a dark-colored line, your seam is too close together. Once you have dry fit the seams, it’s time to do it for real. Pull the edges of the grasses to be seamed back so they fold over themselves. Apply seam glue to the seam tape (shiny side face down). Use a straight edge (even a sturdy piece of cardboard will work) to apply the glue evenly across the tape. Allow the glue to sit until it gets tacky (usually 5 to 10 minutes depending on the amount of moisture in the air – this process can be sped up by misting the glue with a spray bottle). Once the glue is tacky, set the grass back in place on top of the tape. When seaming with tape and glue you can use sod staples or nails to hold the seam in place while the glue is curing. This allows you to move on with the installation while the glue is curing without risk of disrupting the seam – so the staples and nails provide your short-term hold while the tape and glue provide your long-term hold. We strongly encourage the use of tape and glue for putting green installations as it is the most effective way to seam two rolls of putting green and it is the most effective way to seam the fringe to the green.

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Once your seams are complete it is time to secure the rest of the grass. The perimeter should be secured with 5" non-galvanized common nails every 3" to 6". The field is secured with 5” or 6” nails every 2’ to 3’ on center. Seams should be secured with with seaming tape and seam glue. When nailing, spread grass blades apart so no fibers become trapped under the nail head. Depending on the shape of the area, relief cuts may be needed along curved edges as well. Relief cuts (below right) allow the artificial grass to more easily conform to a curved shape than it would otherwise. The goal is to minimize relief cuts, but we use them as needed to ensure a clean look to the installation. When you are making your final cuts to the grass edges at the perimeter, you want to cut the grass so it extends about 3 inches beyond the perimeter if you’ve chosen the Premium Installation Technique. You do this so you can tuck the edge of the grass into the gap you left between the Bend-a-Board and the hardscape edge. If you are not using Bend-a-Board, fold the end of the grass at the edge of the perimeter as shown. Using a China marker, felt pen or chalk, mark along the backing where the cut will be made. Using a very sharp carpet knife, slowly cut along the marking, checking every few inches to make sure your cut is true. Take your time! NEVER MAKE PERIMETER CUTS UNTIL ALL IMPORTANT SEAMS ARE DONE! If you make the perimeter cuts before your seams and you make a seaming mistake, your grass pieces may no longer fit together.

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Finishing Up

The final step in the installation process is adding infill. The amount of infill that needed depends on the density and pile height of your artificial grass as well as the expected foot traffic. As a general rule, Purchase Green recommends infill be added at a rate of 1-2 lbs. per square foot. Infill is important for the long-term success

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of your artificial grass installation because it serves three primary purposes.

Infill protects the primary backing from UV exposureLike anything left outside, artificial grass backings can suffer from exposure to the sun. Coating the primary backing with infill adds protection which helps to extend the useful life of your artificial grass product. Infill adds weightArtificial grass is like carpet in that it will expand and contract with changes in temperature. The addition of weight in conjunction with using a sufficient number of nails helps to ensure your artificial grass doesn’t end up looking like carpet that needs to be stretched.

Infill adds ballastBy “adding ballast” you are helping support the fibers against matting down and the resulting wear patterns. Another way to describe this is to say infill helps to improve the “memory” of the fibers. You may have heard from some companies that infill isn't necessary. Don't believe it. Artificial grass is an investment and infill is terrific for helping to protect it so it always looks and performs the way it is intended.



Finishing Up

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There are three categories of infill. You can think of them in terms of Good, Better and Best. GoodSilica Sand accomplishes the three primary needs of infill and it is the least expensive. BetterZeolite is used as an infill for pet applications. Zeolite is primarily used as an artificial grass infill for its odor reducing capabilities. Zeolite is a negatively charged, honeycomb-shaped molecular structure which absorbs liquids and gases like a magnet to prevent ammonia from forming a gas. (The ammonia buildup in pet urine is what you typically associate with the smell.) This molecular structure holds the ammonia until the sodium ions found in rain water release the magnetic ability which forces the odor causing bacteria down into the ground ultimately “flushing out” the ammonia smell. The purity rate is the key component in the ability of the Zeolite infill to perform its intended function as an artificial grass infill. A maintenance item to pay attention to when using a Zeolite infill is that it is best NOT to flush your turf from a garden hose when using zeolite for urine odor control because the hose water is usually filtered and will end up being encapsulated in the Zeolite granule in lieu of the urine. BestHeroFill is a premium product used for artificial grass lawns and artificial sports fields. It is strongly recommended for artificial lawn installations in pet areas. HeroFill is infused with (Zinc, ZPT, ZOE) anti-fungal protection. This fungastatic agent inhibits growth of mildew and algae. This product’s unique biocide chemistry controls odors caused by mildew, mold fungus, and algae and significantly reduces the odor caused by ammonia buildup in pet urine. This is our highest-quality infill option so it is a little pricier than our other options. HeroFill also keeps artificial grass cooler to the touch than other infills such as silica sand. Use a drop spreader to evenly distribute your infill. Once all the infill has been deposited, use a Power Broom (more on the next page) to help further distribute the infill and to help it settle down and between the blades of grass. If a Power Broom is unavailable, you can use a plastic bristle rake such as Purchase Green’s Turf Broom.



Finishing Up

After to installing your artificial grass, Purchase Green recommends using a Power Broom. The Power Broom is super easy to use. If you can operate a vacuum, you can operate a Power Broom. The Power Broom features stiff plastic bristles that spin on a rotating drum. This spinning action helps each individual blade of grass stand up tall and straight. Using a Power Broom on your unrolled grass prior to installation will make installation easier as the grass will be better stretched and will receive infill more easily. Once your grass is installed, one more pass with the Power Broom will give theblades optimal lift and really enhance the wow-factor. The Power Broom is also a fantastic tool for helping to remove traffic wear patterns on your artificial grass lawn and restore it to a like-new appearance. If

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your grass has begun to take on a matted look, a few minutes spent with a Power Broom will restore your grass to its original splendor. Power Brooms are typically used during the initial installation of your lawn and as called for by periodic maintenance. Some Purchase Green stores have Power Brooms available for both rental and for purchase. Power Brooms may also be rented at most power equipment rental shops.

DO NOT USE METAL RAKES OR BRUSHES as they break down the blades, making them weaker, frayed and prone to failure. In addition, the use of metal rakes or brushes for installation or grooming may void your Purchase Green Lifetime Warranty. For manual brushing or brooming Purchase Green offers the Turf Broom. The Turf Broom is a synthetic bristle rake that is suitable for small artificial grass projects or when a Power Broom is unavailable.



Frequently Asked Questions

1. HOW MUCH DOES IT COST?Purchase Green carries a wide variety of artificial grass. The least expensive is $0.99 per square foot and the most expensive is $3.89 per square foot with many varieties and prices in between. 2. HOW DO I CHOOSE THE PERFECT GRASS?It’s as easy as 1-2-3. No, really! First, decide on your application. In other words, will your project be for a landscape, for pets, for a putting green, for a playground or for sports? Second, think about how much foot traffic you expect on your grass. A lot? A little? A medium amount? Third, consider the profile of the grass. What kind of finish do you prefer? What about texture and color? How important is shape and temperature? Once you go through those three steps we’ll be able to help you identify the perfect grass for you. 3. WHAT TYPE OF MAINTENANCE IS REQUIRED?There is very little maintenance associated with artificial grass. That is, after all, one of the reasons people make the switch! However, over time, especially in high-traffic areas, it may be useful to brush the grass up every once in a while to keep the blades standing tall. Our Turf Broom is perfect for that. You may also elect to periodically use a leaf blower to clear the grass of leaves and other debris. Other than that there really isn’t much else required.

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4. WHAT ABOUT PETS?All Purchase Green grasses are safe for people and pets. If your pets will be using the grass as a restroom then you definitely want to use a premium infill like HeroFill or MellowFill. These infills are terrific for reducing odor from pet urine. You should also consider shorter, less dense grass for your project as thick, tall grass can be more difficult to clean. Generally though, solid waste is cleaned the same as on natural lawns and liquid waste drains away – though a spritz with the hose once in a while won’t hurt.




5. HOW LONG DOES ARTIFICIAL GRASS LAST?The majority of our grasses have a Lifetime Warranty and an expected useful lifespan of 20 years. 6. THE BACKING IS CRIMPED AND SOME OF THE GRASS BLADES ARE BENT. HOW DO I FIX THIS?Artificial grass is made on machines that roll the grass as it’s produced. Sometimes there may be sections where creases form on the roll. Fixing this usually means nothing more than unrolling your grass and leaving it to warm in the sun for a few hours. This will loosen up the crimps and straighten out the blades. Installing in colder climates and/or colder seasons means some manual stretching may be needed. If that’s the case, Purchase Green has carpet kickers available that are designed for this process. 7. OK GIVE IT TO ME STRAIGHT…CAN I REALLY DO THIS MYSELF?Yes! If you’re somewhat handy and – more importantly – not afraid of hard work, then you can join the thousands of other Purchase Green customers who’ve installed their own grass. The hardest part will be excavating the project area and building the sub-base. It’s not complicated work but it is labor intensive. You’ve also got to have a plan for what to do with the excavated soil. The trickiest part is seaming. Seaming is as much an art as a skill. A good seam is invisible whereas a bad seam is very visible. Go slow and remember to measure twice (or thrice) and cut once. 8. HOW MUCH WATER WILL I SAVE?An average size lawn is between 600 and 700 square feet, which will use between 24,000 and 36,000 gallons of water each year. With artificial grass that water consumption is virtually eliminated, as is lawn mower maintenance, gas, fertilizers and other chemicals. That’s why we say that a typical artificial grass lawn will pay for itself in 3-5 years.

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9. SO WHAT MAKES PURCHASE GREEN SO GREAT?We believe it’s our dedication to providing the best products, the best prices and the best customer service that distinguishes us from our competitors. We have everything you need all in one place and Purchase Green folks are always happy, helpful and happy to help! Plus we have dozens of different grasses in stock at all stores to suit any project need. And our grasses feature Purchase Green’s Lifetime Warranty so you’ll always have peace of mind. 10. WHAT SHOULD I KNOW ABOUT REFLECTIVE SURFACES AND MELTING?Artificial grass has a very high melting point – around 200 °F. But reflective surfaces can generate heat in excess of that mark. So, when installing your artificial grass, take note of which direction reflective surfaces, such as your windows, face. If they face west or (especially) south, consider installing an outdoor solar screen or protective window film. These relatively inexpensive solutions will also contribute to better energy-efficiency in your home. Also, be sure to check neighboring windows to see if they may be the culprit. You may also take note of where reflections hit the surface and install your artificial grass such that it isn’t bearing the brunt of the reflected heat. At Purchase Green we want you to enjoy your artificial grass for years to come. So, take the easy, precautionary step of examining reflective surfaces prior to installing your grass. If you think they may put your grass at risk, invest in a protective solution. If you have questions or are unsure if your windows might damage your grass, just ask us. We’re happy, helpful and happy to help.

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