Dissertation Part Two

The Role Fashion Retailers Can Play to Divert Textile Waste From Landfills

Rachel LuisettoFashion Concepts and Innovation Project

Ena BrownFASH30109

1

Introduction

Literature Review & Secondary Research

Recycling

Biodegradable Fabrics

Primary Research Proposal

Conclusion

Stage 3 Timeline

References

Bibliography

List of Illustrations

2 - 3

4 - 12

4 - 7

8 - 12

13 - 14

15

15

16 - 17

18-20

21

Word Count- 3,900

Rationale

After reading a statement from Eileen Fisher, owner of one of the largest and most successful social and environmentally responsible women’s apparel companies in the world, about how the fashion industry is the world’s second largest polluting industry next to oil (Fisher, 2015), I found it appalling that something that has been such a major part in my life is causing the most damage to our world. The fashion industry accounts for more than 2.5 million tonnes of textiles being produced annually in the UK. Only 25 percent of those textiles are recycled, thus leaving 75 percent to end up in already over-crowded landfills where they will decompose and decontaminate both the surface and ground water (WRAP, 2014). This is not only a major environmental issue but also a public health issue. I began to question why I sought a career in an industry that’s production of textile waste outweighs their efforts to control and recycle it. My next thought was that perhaps I chose this career path because I want to change the way the fashion industry does things and help discover a solution that

diverts textile waste from landfills.

2

Figure 2. Spy Hill Landfill (2009) by

DNORMAN

Overview

According to Redress (2013), textile waste is defined as “a material that is deemed unusable for its original purpose by the owner. Textile waste can include fashion and textile industry waste, created during fibre, textile and clothing production, and consumer waste, created during consumer use and disposal”. A typical consumer pays taxes for municipal disposal of waste, so some may say that once the consumer purchases an item from a retailer, that company is no longer responsible for what happens at the end of that items life and that the responsibility is now put on the consumer to ensure it’s recycled properly. Most people are unaware that the act of recycling textiles does not legitimately mean they get recycled in the end. The recycling industry only keeps 15 percent of recycled textiles and the rest is disposed of in landfills (Desbarats, 2010). So the question remains, what can fashion companies do on an industry level to make sure the remaining 85 percent of textile waste is properly recycled. Zero Waste Europe says “waste is a human invention and as such, it is up to us to design it out of the system” (Zero Waste Europe, 2012), meaning that we have to come up with new and innovative ideas that can

be implemented on an industry level in order to battle this current and rising issue.

3

Research Objectives

For purposes of this dissertation, I am not seeking to place the blame on the consumers or the recycling industry for textile waste ending up in landfills. The issue needs to be resolved from its origin- fashion companies. Through primary and secondary research methods I aim to discover recycling methods that fashion companies can start adapting and integrating into their business models in order to help divert textile waste from landfills and the benefits that come with these recycling methods. I also aim to discover new biodegradable fabrics that designers can incorporate into their designs so that if a product by-passes the recycling stage and ends up in a landfill; it will

not be harmful to the environment.

Figure 3. Landfill Clothing (2014) by

Outfiteer

Recycling

According to Waste Watch (2012), textile recycling originated in the Yorkshire Dales approximately 200 years ago when old textile, furniture and second hand-item dealers, also called ‘rag and bone men’, collected and recycled people’s unwanted textiles. If this process has been evolving for 200 years why is it so slow to catch up to and combat the current textile waste issues the fashion industry faces today? A statement in the book called Organic Waste Recycling says that “The feasibility of a waste recycling scheme depends not only on technical aspects, but also on social, cultural, public health, and institutional considerations. Although waste recycling has been in practice successfully in many countries, a large number of people still lack understanding and neglect the benefits to be gained from these waste recycling schemes” (Polprasert, 1996). This statement is truer today as it was twenty years ago. Fashion companies still do not recognize the reaping benefits they can receive from implementing a textile waste recycling system into their company’s business models. For instance, in 2012 WRAP research uncovered that more than 1.4 million tons of textile waste was being sent to landfills across England each year. WRAP calculated that approximately £23.8 million pounds a year could be generated in profits if fashion businesses began recycling a mere 10 percent of landfill textile waste (WRAP 2012). Imagine the magnitude of revenue produced if fashion companies recycled 95 percent of landfill textile waste. Not only that, but envision the amount of landfill space that would be reduced if this occurred. Most companies turn down the idea of implementing a textile waste recycling system because of the high costs. Fibre sorting technology can be extremely expensive and is an essential part of any textile recycling process. Sorting fibres that consist of complex mixtures of both natural and synthetic fibres make the separation process more challenging, resulting in higher costs. What fashion companies must now understand is that the money spent on creating a textile waste recycling system would be beneficial in the long run, not only for the company itself but also for the environment.

4

Figure 4. Textile Waste (2016) by What’s In My Life

Figure 5. Trash (2011) by Examiner

An example of a successful recycling strategy would be The Salvation Army, one of Britain’s largest textile recycling charities. Back in the 1990’s, The Salvation Army conjoined with Kettering Textiles to construct a textile recycling facility in order to maintain the amount of textile donations the charity was receiving yearly. In the first few years of having The Salvation Army and Kettering Textiles recycling facility operational, they saw revenue of around £7 million pounds. Today, The Salvation Army has made an astounding £39.5 million pounds on recycling textile waste in the last four years. This shows that having a recycling system in place benefits a company in the long run. Currently, less than 1 percent of The Salvation Army’s textile waste ends up in landfills. That means for every tonne that is recycled it is reducing carbon dioxide emissions by 7 tonnes (The Salvation Army, 2016). According to the Textile Innovation Knowledge Platform (2013), textile waste ranges from 550,000 – 900,000 tonnes per year in the UK. So if fashion companies reacted to the textile waste issue in the same way that The Salvation Army did, a total of 3.8 million – 6.3 million tonnes of carbon dioxide emissions would not be produced at landfills sites each year. Having a textile recycling strategy in place creates both financial and environmental benefits.

5

Figure 6. Recycling (2015) by The Salvation Army

According to Alison Gwilt in her book A Practical Guide to Sustainable Fashion (2013), studies have shown that reusing recycled material instead of processing new raw fibres is significantly healthier for the environment and utilizes less energy. Fashion companies should be obligated to begin developing strong relationships with recycling industry professionals in order to reuse and repurpose textile waste. Popular UK charities such as The Salvation Army and Oxfam have recycling plants to break down and reuse textiles that cannot be sold within their charity shops. These recycling plants separate the textiles fibres by either chemical or mechanical processes so the fibres can then be remanufactured into new fabrics. With the overwhelming volume of donations that charities obtain yearly, their textile recycling revolves solely around their donations and not at-home consumer or industry textile waste. This is why fashion companies need to have recycling systems in place within their own businesses. In the 2016/2017 Retail Forecast from the Centre for Retail Research it claims that consumer spending on fashion items in the UK has increased by 2.9 percent in 2015 and is predicted to rise within the next two years. The chart below shows how retail sales in the UK have significantly increased since 2010 due to consumer spending. This means that production rates will increase as retailers will try to keep up with consumer demands. Increased production rates result in more textiles being produced. This makes way for an increase in the amount of textile waste in upcoming years. Charities shops should not be relied upon to recycle all of the

forthcoming textile waste.

6

Figure 7. UK Retail Sales Chart (2015) by Centre

for Retail Research

Teaming up with a professional in the recycling industry, such as 2ReWear, is an incredibly easy alternative to developing your own recycling strategy or facility. Although the financial benefits are not there, the environmental ones are. 2ReWear is a textile recycling business that teams up with brands and fashion companies and collects their unwanted textiles for them and their consumers. 2ReWear makes sure that 95 percent of their collections are either reused or reprocessed into new materials (2ReWear, 2015). An option like this might be better suited for smaller fashion companies who don’t have the ability to recycle textiles

for themselves.

7

Further research on textile waste recycling must be conducted in order to gain industry insight and understanding on the advantages and disadvantages of implementing a textile waste recycling system within a fashion company. Current textile waste recycling systems must be analysed in detail in order to find the

most beneficial one.

Figure 8. 2ReWear Cycle (2015) by 2ReWear

Biodegradable Fabrics

Biodegradable fabrics are a key essential when discussing how fashion companies can help divert textile waste from landfills because designers need to start developing garments that can be fully recycled by the end of their life. This idea was first brought up by Annie McCourt, a fashion and textile associate at the Cradle to Cradle Products Innovation Institute, who proposed that designers need to be trained on how to make fully recyclable products (Gould, 2015). In a case study by Alison Gwilt, she stated that “Garments can be made from renewable or biodegradable fibres…While we know that often the most significant sustainability impacts related to clothing are created through laundering and drying, materials nevertheless play a significant role in moving towards more sustainable fashion practices.”

(Gwilt, 2011).

The ever-growing amount of textile waste is largely influenced by the fast fashion trend we see in many retailers today. Fashion trends now change on a week by week basis instead of monthly or yearly. Fashion retailers such as H&M and Zara must keep up to consumer demands by producing new products every few weeks; leading to high production rates resulting in a high amount of textile waste that ultimately ends up in over-crowded landfills. Most garments are not being designed for longevity or durability because that is not how the fast fashion industry works. Fashion companies are designing products to only last the length of a season or the length of a trend. Once either of those are done, the garments

value to the consumer is insignificant and is usually discarded of shortly afterwards.

8

Figure 9. We Are All Chained To Our Waste

(2011) by Style and Start Up

The fashion industry has recently introduced a process called slow fashion in order to combat the rush of the fast fashion industry. Slow fashion does not keep up with seasonal trends. Slow fashion garments are designed around durability and longevity. They are garments that can be worn time and time again without being influenced by fast fashion trends. Although the slow fashion movement is a good way to stop textile waste ending up in landfills it is very slow to catch on to the mass population of consumers, more particularly the younger generation. This is in part thanks to fashion bloggers, street style photos, celebrity fashion and fashion shows (Ethical Fashion Forum, 2016). Consumers today are very involved with what is going on in the fashion world they don’t want to adapt the slow fashion movement because they want to be up to date with the latest trends. In a PLATE (Product Lifetimes and the Environment) conference about designing for fast and slow circular fashion systems it stated that “Recently there has been a rise of projects that encourage and support textile and fashion designers in considering their responsibilities as creators of sustainable products and systems…” (Earley & Goldsworthy, 2015). This is

why if designers are not designing for longevity, they should design for disposal.

Designing for disposal can be defined as either using biodegradable fabrics so that if a product by-passes the textile recycling stage and ends up in a landfill, it will decompose, compost and will not be harmful to the environment, or to stop blending synthetic and natural fibres together which makes the recycling stage increasingly difficult. Having the right technology and skills to be able to sort out bended fibres in

order for proper reusability is a tough but key necessity when recycling products.

9

Figure 10. Landfill Trash (2011) by

Examiner

The Future Fabrics Expo is an annual showcase that features high quality fashion fabrics that are created with the purpose of reducing environmental impact. They exhibit and support innovative and sustainable fabrics and fibres as their goal is to creatively inspire companies and designers to start utilizing more environmentally friendly fabrics into their products. It is a great place for designers to become educated on the potential for biodegradable products in the fashion industry and to purchase some of these new fabrics. The 5th Future Fabrics Expo was held in London in September 2015, and one of its top 5 innovative fabrics showcased was a biodegradable fabric called Pinatex (The

Sustainable Angle, 2015).

Pinatex was created by a company called Ananas Anam and is a natural textile derived from pineapple leaves. As a finished product, Pinatex possesses some characteristics that are similar to leather. Pinatex is an extremely durable, light, flexible and soft material that is great for printing, stitching or cutting. Its products are 100 percent biodegradable, compostable and environmentally friendly. Since pineapple leaves are a bi-product from growing pineapples and are normally discarded of afterwards, no extra water or soil needs to be used in order for the pineapple leaves to be harvested (Ananas

Anam, 2016).

10

Figure 11. Pinatex (2016) by Ananas

Anam

Another company that is successful at creating a 100 percent biodegradable and compostable fabric for workwear is FREITAG. The fabric they created is called F-ABRIC and is composed of bast fibres (plant fibres) such as hemp, flax and modal. There are 6 different types of F-ABRIC ranging from denim fabrics to jersey fabrics. With more research and development, FREITAG will expand their fabric range to more than just workwear products. All of the F-ABRIC products can be tossed into a compost pile at the end of their life and will decompose completely within three months (FREITAG, 2016). According to WRAP, The Branded Workwear Report states that only 10 percent of workwear is recycled or reused. This means that 90 percent of no longer needed workwear textiles end up in landfill sites around the world (WRAP, 2012). If more workwear companies started using fabrics like

FREITAG’s F-ABRIC for workwear, it would help the process of reducing textile waste.

11

Finally, another notable fabric that was mentioned in a PLATE conference is A.S.A.P. (Paper Cloth) by Professor Kay Politowicz and Dr. Kate Goldsworthy at the University of the Arts London. Having characteristics similar to paper, this fabric is compostable, recyclable and is meant to have only a short life span. This fabric was created to combat the textile waste issue generated by the fast fashion industry (Earley & Goldsworthy, 2015). A.S.A.P. (Paper Cloth) is produced from fibres derived from forest elements such as wood and is specifically designed for disposal, meaning that this inexpensive

fabric is biodegradable and also recyclable.

Figure 12. FREITAG F-ABRIC Biodegradable (2015) by FREITAG

Figure 13. ASAP (Paper Cloth) Material (2016) by Textile Toolbox

These biodegradable fabric examples are just the tip of a very large textile iceberg that needs to be

chipped into. There is an abundance of potential for designers to begin incorporating biodegradable

fabrics into their designs in order to eliminate textile waste from rotting away in landfills and polluting

the environment. With knowledgeable and professional resources such as the Future Fashion Expo

and Textile Toolbox that are willing to educate and help designers make this transformation, it is a

clear solution to a difficult problem. Although the concept of slow fashion is strong, our reality is

fast fashion. Today’s generation may buy some products for longevity and durability, but many of

their fashion purchases are a quick fix to get the latest trends. Now the controversy behind many

biodegradable fibres is that they aren’t as durable as opposed to man-made synthetic fibres. In some

cases this is true, but fast fashion products are being produced in such large quantities in order to

keep up with consumer demands that the fabrics are loosing quality regardless. Fast fashion products

are not destined to last a life time, only a season and at times even less than that.

Further research on biodegradable fabrics must be conducted in order to discover any potential

implications caused by using biodegradable fabrics. There could be many negatives to using these

types of fabrics such as low quality or laundering issues, which would stop retailers from incorporating

them into their designs. Also, the current controversy about some biodegradable fabrics not being

healthy for the environment will be looked at.

12

My approach to primary research will be mainly qualitative interview methods with open ended questions. I know this research method could potentially be subjective but it will give me a greater understanding of my topic by having industry professionals share their insight to these issues with me. I also know that it can be difficult to contact industry professionals for interviews as they are busy and may not have time to respond. To cope with this issue I will be having back-up interview options. For primary research guidance I have read and analysed the fifth edition of the book Research Methods for Business Students by Mark Saunders, Philip Lewis and Adrian Thornhill. I have structured my

primary research methods around my key findings during the secondary research stage.

After conducting secondary research on recycling, I would like to find out the advantages and disadvantages that companies that currently have textile waste recycling systems in place face. I would like to know details about how their textile waste recycling process works and if they chose to get involved due to environmental concern, potential profit or both. I will then compare the recycling strategies to see which are most beneficial. I will also try to interview companies that have the potential to set up a textile waste recycling strategy but have yet to. These interviews will help me

see both sides of the textile waste recycling issue.

I will interview and visit Oxfam’s Wastesaver textile recycling plant in Bately because they are one of the UK’s most popular clothing donation charities. They are relevant to this topic because they established a textile recycling plant that receives 12,000 tonnes of textiles each year and 0 percent end up in landfills. Wastesaver is a sorting and recycling facility that’s goal is to minimise waste and re-use almost every textile in some way.

I will contact LMB Recycling Textile Plant in Canning Town, London for an interview. LMB collects around 200 tonnes of textiles per week. 80 percent is collected for reuse and only 5 percent is sent to landfills for waste. Each item is inspected and sorted by hand. In an article in The Guardian called What Is the Future for Sustainable Materials in Fashion, it says that LMB and other similar companies are what’s known as the current laboratories of textile waste reuse (Gould, 2015).

I will contact 2ReWear for an interview on their recycling process as well. I will then research a few more companies that have textile recycling systems in place and afterwards compare and analyze each of their processes with one another to find the most beneficial one.

13

Contacting and visiting local waste and recycling centres around Nottingham would give me first-hand knowledge and a greater context to what happens to textile waste when it is disposed of in landfills. I would like to ask them what they do when they receive textile waste, is there any particular process they go through before going into the landfill and if they are partnered with any textile recycling plants/companies.

In an article called Time to Unlock the Value of Household Textile Waste Says WRAP, it states that WRAP was researching into different types of recycling methods and technologies for textiles due to the large amount of textile waste being thrown into landfills each year in the UK (WRAP, 2012). It would be beneficial to interview WRAP about that subject and analyse what recycling methods they uncovered. They would be a great source to use as primary research because they are experts in this topic as their mission is to ‘have a world without waste’.

As for biodegradable fabrics, I will be contacting FREITAG about their success with F-ABRIC. I will also be contacting some winners of the Future Fabrics Expo who successfully created new, innovative and biodegradable materials for the future of sustainable fabrics. I would like to know if designers are incorporating their materials into their designs, if biodegradable materials are a good way to battle the textile waste issue caused by factors such as fast fashion industry and any implications caused by

designers using biodegradable fabrics.

I am currently researching more into each one of these potential interview candidates in order to find the right individual to contact within their companies. I am currently trying to gain access to their companies through LinkedIn, as it will act as a gateway for me to contact them for interviews. My final primary research method will be both qualitative and quantitative. I aim to create a consumer survey for 50 to 100 participants. I will be asking closed questions in order to get the most accurate responses. Since fashion products are based around consumer’s wants and needs, I aim to discover if there is even a potential market for biodegradable materials in clothing. Consumers could potentially not want their clothing made of biodegradable fibres, which means there will be no

market for those materials.

Overall, my primary research will give me an in-depth view from credible industry professionals about my key findings during my secondary research and will allow me to analyse my research topic

further in order to get the best results for stage three.

14

15

Overall, two key elements that fashion companies can use to help divert textile waste from landfills are recycling strategies and biodegradable fabrics. Key findings that have been identified in the secondary research on textile waste recycling are that this process is very slow to catch up to and resolve the current textile waste in landfill issue. Fashion companies don’t yet understand both the financial and environmental benefits that having a textile waste recycling system can offer, resulting in not enough systems being implemented. Charity organizations do not have the capacity to recycle their textile waste donations as well as industry and in-home consumer textile waste. Fashion companies need to begin taking responsibility for textile waste by putting recycling systems in place within their business models. Teaming up with a professional in the

recycling industry is a necessity for this to be successful.

Key findings that have been identified in the secondary research of biodegradable fabrics are that designers must begin designing for disposal. As fast fashion retailers keep producing garments of low quality at such high production rates, consumers are quick to throw away any unwanted or declining quality garments. To keep up with the pace of the fast fashion industry designers should be incorporating biodegradable fabrics into their designs so that when the disposal stage comes along, the garment can decompose properly and sustainably whether in someone’s compost or in a landfill. Designers need to start educating themselves on sustainable fabrics by exploring the new and innovative biodegradable fabrics being developed each year.

For stage three I aim to carry out primary research which includes numerous interviews with industry professionals and a possible consumer questionnaire. After primary research, a business concept will be created derived with the most beneficial ways for fashion companies to help

divert textile waste from landfills.

Stage Three Timeline

16

Fisher, E., 2015. Fast Fashion Is the Second Dirtiest Industry in the World, Next to Big Oil. Eco Watch. August 17th, 2015.

Pokkyarath, B., Biddie, D.,2014. Evaluation of the end markets for textile rag and fibre within the UK. WRAP. 1 May 2014.

Reddress.,2013. The EcoChic Design Award Sourcing Textile Waste. [online] Available at: http://www.ecochicdesignaward.com/wp-content/blogs.dir/3/files/2013/07/LEARN_Sourcing_ENG.pdf [Accessed 12 March 2016]

Desbarats, A., 2010. Let’s Keep Clothing Out of Our Landfills. Earth Easy: Solutions for Sustainable Living. [online] Available at: http://learn.eartheasy.com/2010/05/lets-keep-clothing-out-of-our-landfills/ [Accessed 5 March 2016]

Zero Waste Europe, 2012. David Andersen Copenhagen; designing waste out of fashion [online] Availble at: http://www.zerowasteeurope.eu/tag/zero-waste-fashion/ [Accessed 5 March 2016]

Waste Watch., 2001. Textile Recycling Information. [online] Available at: https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/21130258/resources/InformationSheets/Textiles.pdf [Accessed 5 March 2016]

Polprasert, C.,1996.Organic Waste Recycling: Technology and Management. Wiley.

Dickinson, G., 2012. Time to unlock the value of household textile waste, says WRAP. WRAP. [online] 11 September 2012.

The Salvation Army. 2016. The Salvation Army. [online] Available at: http://www.salvationarmy.org.uk/recycling [Accessed 15 March 2016]

Textile Innovation Knowledge Platform. 2015. Textile waste, Recycling? and life cycle analysis of degradable materials. [online] Available at: http://www.tikp.co.uk/knowledge/material-functionality/biodegradable/textile-waste/ [Accessed 5 March 2016]

Gwilt, A. 2014. A Practical Guide To Sustainable Fashion. A&C Black.

Centre For Retail Research, 2015. The Retail Forecast for 2016-2017. Centre For Retail Research. Available at: http://www.retailresearch.org/retailforecast.php [Accessed 12 March 2016]

2ReWear.,2015. Mission & Services. [online] Available at: http://2rewear.com/about/mission [Accessed 5 March 2016]

Gould, H.,2015. Waste is so last season: recycling clothes in the fashion industry. The Guardian. Feburary 26th, 2015.

Gwilt, A. 2011. Shaping Sustainable Fashion. Routledge.

17

Ethical Fashion Forum, 2016. Fast fashion, “value” fashion. [online]. Available at: https://www.ethicalfashionforum.com/the-issues/fast-fashion-cheap-fashion [Accessed 5 March 2016]

Earley, R., Goldsworthy, K., 2015. Designing for fast and slow circular fashion systems: exploring strategies for multiple and extended product cycles. PLATE Conference. (17-19 June 2015) Pages 113-118.

The Sustainable Angle.,2015. Future Fabrics Expo. [online] Available at: http://www.thesustainableangle.org/future-fabrics/about/ [Accessed 18 March 2016]

Ananas Anam.,2015.Introducing Pintatex. [online] Available at: http://www.ananas-anam.com/pinatex/ [Accessed 18 March 2016]

FREITAG.,2014. FREITAG F-ABRIC. [online] Available at: http://www.freitag.ch/fabric;jsessionid=F31CAE11DE0A6EDA36E71104020F2833 [Accessed 19 March 2016]


Earley, R., Goldsworthy, K., 2015. Designing for fast and slow circular fashion systems: exploring strategies for multiple and extended product cycles. PLATE Conference. (17-19 June 2015) Pages 113-118.

Saunders, M.,Thornhill,A.,Lewis,P.,2009.Pearson Education.

Gould, H., 2015. What is the Future For Sustainable Materials in Fashion? The Guardian. 19 March 2015.


18

2ReWear.,2015. Mission & Services. [online] Available at: http://2rewear.com/about/mission [Accessed 5 March 2016]

Allwood, J., Laursen, S., Rodriguez, C., Bocken,N., 2006. Well Dressed? The Present and Future Sustainability of Clothing and Textiles in the United Kingdom. University of Cambridge.

Ananas Anam.,2015.Introducing Pintatex. [online] Available at: http://www.ananas-anam.com/pinatex/ [Accessed 18 March 2016]

Bucci, J.2014. FREITAG Develops 100% Biodegradable Fabric. Start Up Fashion. 8 November 2014.

Canadian Textile Recovery Effort.,2015. About. [online] Available at: http://textilerecovery.org/ [Accessed 18 March 2016]

Centre For Retail Research, 2015. The Retail Forecast for 2016-2017. Centre For Retail Research. Available at: http://www.retailresearch.org/retailforecast.php [Accessed 12 March 2016]

Certo-Ware, R., 2015. Clothing Industry 2nd Biggest Pollutant After Oil, According To Study. Bustle.

Claudio, L., 2007. Waste Couture: Environmental Impact of the Clothing Industry. National Centre For Biotechnology Information. September 2007.

Desbarats, A., 2010. Let’s Keep Clothing Out of Our Landfills. Earth Easy: Solutions for Sustainable Living. [online] Available at: http://learn.eartheasy.com/2010/05/lets-keep-clothing-out-of-our-landfills/ [Accessed 5 March 2016]


Earley, R., Goldsworthy, K., 2015. Designing for fast and slow circular fashion systems: exploring strategies for multiple and extended product cycles. PLATE Conference. (17-19 June 2015) Pages 113-118. Ethical Fashion Forum, 2016. Fast fashion, “value” fashion. [online]. Available at: https://www.ethicalfashionforum.com/the-issues/fast-fashion-cheap-fashion [Accessed 5 March 2016]

Ethical Fashion Forum, 2016. Recycling [online]. Available at: http://www.ethicalfashionforum.com/the-issues/recycling [Accessed 5 March 2016]

Ethical Fashion Forum.,2015. Energy and Waste. [online] Available at: http://www.ethicalfashionforum.com/the-issues/energy-and-waste [Accessed 5 March 2016]

Fisher, E., 2015. Fast Fashion Is the Second Dirtiest Industry in the World, Next to Big Oil. Eco Watch. August 17th, 2015.

19

FREITAG.,2014. FREITAG F-ABRIC. [online] Available at: http://www.freitag.ch/fabric;jsessionid=F31CAE11DE0A6EDA36E71104020F2833 [Accessed 19 March 2016]

Gould, H.,2015. Waste is so last season: recycling clothes in the fashion industry. The Guardian. Feburary 26th, 2015.

Gould, H., 2015. What is the Future For Sustainable Materials in Fashion? The Guardian. 19 March 2015.

Gray, R.2012. Reducing Waste by Reusing Textiles. WRAP. [online] Available at: http://www.wrap.org.uk/sites/files/wrap/RWM%202012%20Rachel%20Gray%20Reducing%20waste%20by%20re-using%20textiles.pdf [Accessed 12 March 2016]

Gwilt, A. 2014. A Practical Guide To Sustainable Fashion. A&C Black.

Gwilt, A. 2011. Shaping Sustainable Fashion. Routledge.

Horrocks, R.,1996. Recycling Textile and Plastic Waste. Elsevier.

Kaye, L., 2011. Textile recycling innovation challenges clothing industry. The Guardian. 23 June 2011.

LMB.,2016. Recycling & Reuse. [online] Available at: http://www.lmb.co.uk/recycle_reuse.html [Accessed 12 March 2016]

Motta, W. H., Prado, P.A. and Issberner, L.R.2015. Eco-innovation: its inverse relationship with natural resources use and waste generation. PLATE Conference. (17-19 June 2015) Pages 248-253.

Novaka, I., 2015. Textile Recycling Information Sheet. HumanaNova.

Oxfam.,2015. Wastesaver: Getting Things Sorted. [online] Available at: http://www.oxfam.org.uk/donate/donate-goods/what-happens-to-your-donation/wastesaver [Accessed 18 March 2016]

Peters, S., 2014. Material Revolution 2: New Sustainable and Multi-Purpose Materials for Design and Architecture. Walter de Gruyter.

Pokkyarath, B., Biddie, D.,2014. Evaluation of the end markets for textile rag and fibre within the UK. WRAP. 1 May 2014.

Politowicz, K. and Goldsworthy, K. 2016. ASAP (Paper Cloth). [online] Available at: http://www.textiletoolbox.com/exhibits/detail/sp-paper-cloth/ [Accessed 19 March 2016]

Polprasert, C.,1996.Organic Waste Recycling: Technology and Management. Wiley.

Reddress.,2013. The EcoChic Design Award Sourcing Textile Waste. [online] Available at: http://www.ecochicdesignaward.com/wp-content/blogs.dir/3/files/2013/07/LEARN_Sourcing_ENG.pdf [Accessed 12 March 2016]

20

Saunders, M.,Thornhill,A.,Lewis,P.,2009.Pearson Education.

Shankleman, J., 2015. UK throwing out £25m a year by sending clothes to landfill. Business Green.

Textile Innovation Knowledge Platform. 2015. Textile waste, Recycling? and life cycle analysis of degradable materials. [online] Available at: http://www.tikp.co.uk/knowledge/material-functionality/biodegradable/textile-waste/ [Accessed 5 March 2016]

The Salvation Army. 2016. The Salvation Army. [online] Available at: http://www.salvationarmy.org.uk/recycling [Accessed 15 March 2016]

The Sustainable Angle.,2015. Future Fabrics Expo. [online] Available at: http://www.thesustainableangle.org/future-fabrics/about/ [Accessed 18 March 2016]

Tojo,N., Kogg, B., Kiorboe, N., Kjaer, B., Aalto, K. 2012. Prevention of Textile Waste. Nordic Council of Ministers.

Waste Watch., 2001. Textile Recycling Information. [online] Available at: https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/21130258/resources/InformationSheets/Textiles.pdf [Accessed 5 March 2016]

Zero Waste Europe, 2012. David Andersen Copenhagen; designing waste out of fashion [online] Availble at: http://www.zerowasteeurope.eu/tag/zero-waste-fashion/ [Accessed 5 March 2016]

21

Figure 1. Front Cover (Garbage Photoshoot) by America’s Next Top Model [image] Available at: http://www.fanpop.com/clubs/americas-next-top-model/images/20857150/title/americas-next-top-model-cycle-16-garbage-dump-photoshoot-photo [Accessed 20 March 2016]

Figure 2. Spy Hill Landfill (2009) by DNORMAN [image] Available at: http://blog.sotela.co/eco-friendly-and-ethically-made/ [Accessed 20 March 2016]

Figure 3. Landfill Clothing (2014) by Outfiteer [image] Available at: https://whatsinmylife.net/2016/02/29/re-thinking-foam-with-novafiber/ [Accessed 20 March 2016]

Figure 4. Textile Waste (2016) by What’s In My Life [image] Available at: Available at: https://what-sinmylife.net/2016/02/29/re-thinking-foam-with-novafiber/ [Accessed 20 March 2016]

Figure 5. Trash (2011) by Examiner [image] Available at: http://www.examiner.com/article/one-man-s-trash-is-another-man-s-treasure [Accessed 20 March 2016]

Figure 6. Recycling (2015) by The Salvation Army [image] Available at: http://www.salvationarmy.org.uk/ [Accessed 20 March 2016]

Figure 7. Uk Retail Sales Chart (2015) by Centre for Retail Research [image] Available at: http://www.retailresearch.org/retailforecast.php [Accessed 20 March 2016]

Figure 8. 2ReWear Cycle (2015) by 2ReWear [image] Available at: http://2rewear.com/about/mis-sion [Accessed 20 March 2016]

Figure 9. We Are All Chained To Our Waste (2011) by Style and Start Up [image] Available at: http://styleandthestartup.com/tag/textile-waste/ [Accessed 20 March 2016]

Figure 10. Landfill Trash (2011) by Examiner [image] Available at: http://www.examiner.com/article/one-man-s-trash-is-another-man-s-treasure [Accessed 20 March 2016]

Figure 11. Pinatex (2016) by Ananas Anam [image] Available at: http://www.ananas-an-am.com/pinatex/ [Accessed 20 March 2016]

Figure 12. FREITAG F-ABRIC Biodegradable (2015) by FREITAG [image] Available at: http://www.freitag.ch/fabric [Accessed 20 March 2016]w

Figure 13. ASAP (Paper Cloth) Material (2016) by Textile Toolbox [image] Availavle at: http://www.textiletoolbox.com/exhibits/detail/sp-paper-cloth/ [Accessed 20 March 2016]

Dissertation Part Two

Documents

Transcript of Dissertation Part Two