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Kasut Manek the Dying Trade

ContentIntroductionKasut ManekPeranakan HistoryPeranakan/ Peranakan cultureReligion and politics

Life of a Kasut Manek CraftsmanJourney of the Kasut Manek CraftsmanNew BloodGerneral Questions and advises

Kasut Manek Craftsman photo boothPeranakan shops to visitBibliography

02 – 0304 – 0506 – 0708 – 0910 – 11

12 – 1718 – 23 24 – 2526 – 27

28 – 3334 – 3738 – 39

Chapter 1

Chapter 2

Chapter 3

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The things that you experience in life, the sentimental things and the things you have seen when you were young. Imagine them a few years down, vanished. How do you feel? What does it feel like losing part of your memories to the ravages of time? Memories that can’t be remembered… memories that will never be shared to your loved ones?

It feels like half your life was and is without any meaning. Yes, none of us wants these sentimental memories of us to be gone.

This publication is here to document and also to recognize the dying trades within Singapore, so that it will not be forgotten. Imprinted, so that we can read and look back the times, so as to fulfil our void of sentimentality.

Introduction

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KasutManekPronunciation: [ka-soot Ma-nick]

Kasut Manek is a Malay word which means shoe beads. These beaded shoes are part of the Peranakan traditional costumes – Consisting of the Sarong Kebaya, chained brooches and a silver belt, worn by the Peranakan ladies. These beaded shoes are usually worn on special occasions such as Chinese New Year, Weddings or birthdays etc. The Kasut Manek comes in opened face (peep-toe) or covered face Leather is usually the preferred material for the beaded slippers, and may be either made with low or high heels. The designs are a combination of influences including English, Chinese and Malay influence. They usually consist of colourful

beads that form intricate motifs, flowers, animals, birds and fruits. Vintage Kasut Manek is intricate and finely stitched a testimony to the fine workmanship of yesteryears. The method of making the shoes are similar to cross-stitching, which are handmade bead by bead. Most of the time, these designs appear feminine, which needless to say, will appeal more to the Peranakan women. Kasut Manek is not just an outfit that is worn only by the females, but there is also a male version of the Kasut

Manek, The shoe would be less ornamental compared to the female’s version. The designs vary depending upon event of wear for e.g. During times of depression and death: blue, black or white are worn.The intricacy and fine workmanship of a pair of beaded slipper is also a hallmark of highly accomplished Peranakan women, whose skills in embroidery and beadwork are highly valued.

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historyPeranakanIn the Past most Peranakans are well-off, so they usually spend most of their time doing leisure activities, than most people. In the past skills in embroidery and bead work are rivaled by their passion for stage plays and Dondang saying.

The shoes are made from Manek Potong – Peranakan cut Beads, these beads are faceted glass beads, which have become rare and hard to find. In the past these beads were very tiny multi-faceted glass seed which are gotten from

Europe. Nowadays bead sizes for Kasut Manek are small and Single faceted seed beads which are also known as Charlotte beads. These beads are imported from Czech Republic.

The wearing of these traditional shoes was famous during the 1930’s. It’s a customary practise in Peranakan heritage, whereby all the Nonyas must learn beadwork and make their own pair of slippers to be worn and showcased on their wedding day. This is a matter of pride and honour.

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P What is Peranakan? The Peranakan (Straits Chinese), are a group of mixed-race descendants, who are part Chinese and part Malay/Indonesian.

They were descendants of the Chinese immigrants to the Indonesian archipelago of Nusantara during the colonial Rule. Most Peranakans are from Hokkien ancestry though a few are from Teochew or Cantonese descents. Most of them lived in the straits of Malacca. They were considered as the elites in Singapore and were big supporters of the British and were English educated. They also speak the language of Chinese, Malay and Indonesian and thus they were good traders, and they were

the epitome of communication between the British and the Chinese as they served as the middle men between both distinct races.

The word Nonya is used to identify Peranakan women. Baba on the other hand is used to call males. The colours of the Peranakan culture consist these fee simple colours – pink, blue, green, yellow.

eranakan ?

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Peranakanculture

The Peranakans culture is a mix of mainly the Chinese and Malay culture. They retain their origin of culture through ancestry worship – Chinese, while they incorporate the language and culture of the Malays. One example that we can see a cultural mix is through their traditional outfit, Kebaya, and the Sarong. The Sarong blouse is adapted from the Malay’s Baju Kurong and the Sarong is similar to the batik sarong - batik wrap-around skirt. Brooches are also

worn and last but not least the Kasut Manek as the shoes.

Malay influences can be seen especially in Peranakan cuisine; consisting of typical Malay spices. And the usage of banana leaf in their food which can be seen in Tu-Tu kueh, the kueh itself is mounted on a square banana leaf. In almost all Malay and Peranakan kueh, the most common flavouring ingredients are grated coconut (plain or flavoured), coconut cream, Pandan leaves and palm sugar. Peranakan kueh’s itself most of the time has the green colour feel to it, Malay culture is signified by the colour green as part of their culture.

So in my perspective Peranakans have the best of both worlds in terms of cuisine and small delicacies.

Most Peranakan were well-off, so they were able to indulge on various leisure activities than most people, so they got more time for

stuff like embroidery, and Kasut Manek making. Any Peranakan lady worth their value would have been skilled in sewing, embroidery and beadwork. The finish work of the Nonya’s beading reflected on her good upbringing, as much as patience and skill is a requirement to make the beadworks. When a Peranakan female learns and is trained in the craft making. The perfection of such skill would be easily obtained.

Due to the hybrid culture of the Peranakan, The peranakans not just obtain their beads, thread and sewing instruments locally but they get their materials from palaces like China, Italy or England. Apparently the best quality material will only be satisfied by the having high and often capricious standards of the Peranakan lady.

Religion

Most Baba Nonya, stick to the Chinese faith such as Taoism, Confucianism and Chinese Buddhism. They also celebrate Chinese related events such as the Chinese New Year and the Lantern Festival, while adopting customaries of their colonial

rulers. Some Peranakans are Catholic. Portuguese, Dutch, British, Malay and Indonesian influences can be found at times in the Peranakan culture.

PoliticalPeranakans were financially better off than China-born Chinese. Their wealth and connections allowed the Peranakans to form Straits-Chinese elite, whose loyalty was strictly to the English people. This reason is due to their strict loyalty, the Peranakans did not support Malaysian or Indonesian Independence.

During the middle of the 20th Century, most Peranakan were English educated, as a result of the Western colonization of Malaya and Indonesia, Peranakans embraced the English culture and education as a means to improve economically. This allowed them to have better positions such as admin and civil service posts. Many of them chose to convert to Christianity due to its perception of prestigious and closeness to the preferred company of British and Dutch. The Peranakan soon became

became very influential in Malacca and Singapore and were known also as the High class people. This is because of their loyalty to the British Crown and their interaction with different cultures and languages.

Things started to change in the first half of the 20th century, with some Peranakans starting to support Malaysian and Indonesian independence. In Indonesia three Chinese communities started to merge and become active in the political scene.

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KasutManek

raftsmanLife of a

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raftsman

Now let’s get some insights about the beaded slippers/shoe. There are a few Kasut craftsmen in Singapore one of which is Ms Bebe seet who owns a Peranakan boutique shop at East Coast Road, Mr Yee Swee fan and the other is Mr Robert Sng, a retiree who owns a humble souvenir store named, Little Shophouse, 43 Bussorah St. Located in the heart of Kampong Glam. I interviewed Mr Robert Sng and these are his thoughts on the matter.

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Curious to know what is the reason why Kasut Manek is a dying trade, Mr Sng commented that the first thing we need to know is that there are 2 parts of making these Kasut Manek. First of which is the designing and the beading process and the other part is the cobbler’s part, which is the making of the shoe/slipper.

He said that the first part is not really a dying trade because he consider it as a handicraft which people can pick up as a hobby. He said that there are a few number of people who do it as pastimes of such. But the second part is the one that is really dying. As a trade of selling, Kasut Manek, is vanishing but as a skill and hobby it’s not. Not many people sell these beaded shoes primarily because it’s not practical, as there is not much market for the shoes. Secondly, it’s a very tedious process of making it and the price of the slippers to be sold isn’t something that many people can afford. It’s mainly made and sold for cultural exchange with foreigners.

I agree with Mr Sng about the part about the beading work not dying but it is still done as a handicraft. I personally still think that the skill itself won’t die because, if you were to Google

DyingTrade

Kasut Manek there would be a few websites or blogs where people post their success of beading pair or pairs of beaded slippers. Some forum section even shows people asking for help in learning to make the beaded shoes. Personally I have friends as young as the early twenties who learn the beadwork of Kasut Manek as a leisure past time. I would say that this past time is something similar to having a past time of fixing a 10 000 pieces Jigsaw puzzle.

Design FactsPeranakan beading works has a very elegant feel. Elaborative designs are evident on most of their beading work, designs such as motifs of deities, animals, Phoenixes, dragons, flowers and pictorial symbols.

Feelings The JoyDoes Mr Sng enjoy what he does? Well he personally enjoys making it, enjoys teaching it to others, and also enjoys running the shop. He is retired and old, financially stable. He added that he is just doing this job as a past time, for enjoyment and to do it till his time comes to leave. Right now he just does it as a hobby focusing on making beaded shoes, as part of his life fulfilment.

What is the one joy that he dear about being in the trade most? Mr Sng replied that during this whole Kasut Manek making and selling and teaching, he got to know people, people who do crafts, foreigners from Europe, America, Japan who loves doing embroidery or handwork. He meets mostly people who have similar interest and tourist. He enjoys it because he enjoys handicraft. He also likes teaching it to other because he is very elated when people who learn get the results that they want are happy with it.

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EHe is retired, he is okay financially. He sells other smaller stuff to justify and have a real business; he sells stuff like necklaces, key chains, basket, products which have a relation to Perana-kan and Chinese culture. He advised that should anybody who is interested in making beaded shoe, and taking it up as part of your job he discourage it. Though it helps to spread Singa-pore’s culture and help boost the tourism in great ways, but if you are just going to focus solely on Kasut Manek it isn’t going to work and it will not be easy. It’s just a fantasy. He also thinks that arts and craft isn’t something that can survive well espe-cially in business.

How much does one pair of those Kasut Manek cost well it doesn’t come cheap if it’s done properly, it can cost 980 – 1600++. He also adds on that yes, you can try to make the beads in a rush so that ou can produce more and sell it cheaper than it is right now, for mass production but it would be horrible. He cherishes the integrity of the finish work and he is determined that when the customers buy it will be worth their money that they pay and that they will be satisfied.

arnings

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The

The Kasut Manek is sewn by hand individually, with beautiful cut beads. A wooden frame, or Pidangan, is used in the sewing of Kasut Manek. Making a Kasut Manek would require a sample of the design or cross-stitch patchwork to guide them in making the beaded slippers/shoe. It would be placed in front of them, when they sew. Some more experienced makers with decades of experience can easily sew from memory. This is something very commendable.

The process of creating these beaded shoes is an extremely tedious task; it requires an extreme amount of determination, and focus

to stitch in the small beads one by one. It is an excruciatingly long and slow process In fact, the average time to create just a pair of these Peranakan beaded slippers/shoes is roughly about 100 hours; understandably no one ever has that much time anymore nowadays thus causing it to be a dying trade as it takes too long to profit from selling these from a business perspective.

I wonder if Mr. Sng ever feel tired and passionless in making the Kasut Manek. Apparently he doesn’t because he said that he does it during leisure time, he also does it when he feels happy so that his work will be gently and happily made instead of it being forced. He said that ever since he picked it up as a hobby till now he

never feels tired and have thought of just wanting to give up. It’s something that he is passionate in doing and that is what kept him going all the years. When there is passion, you’ll never want to give up simply because you truly enjoy what you’re doing. There’s a saying that goes “interest will change but passion will remain”.

Process

TheJourneyMr Sng’s journey to become a Kasut Manek craftsmen. Sng himself is a handy person.

Mr sng says that he has an eye for things that attract him and things that look beautiful. It is important to have an eye for beautiful thing, which helps us in creating in beautiful designs.

Mr Sng has changed small ways of doing things. Incorporating tradition and new methods which are practical make it considerably easier for people to learn. He has changed bits and portions of the method of making Kasut Manek so as to make things easier for people to learn through a simplified learning curve.

His journey overall was a bliss.

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Where and who taught him the skills of beading the Kasut Manek? Let’s reveal what he say. When he was young, at about the age of 10 – 12, his neighbour, made Kasut Manek as form of living. He used to play around at his neighbour’s place, interest sparked when he saw them beading the shoes. He then soon sought his neighbour to teach him the basics skills of beading.

Even as years pass and even in his adulthood, whilst he was working, he still took time to meet his neighbours to learn from them. After acquiring all the basic skills, he started exploring ways to help make his working process easier and faster. One example of the change that he did is the sowing frame traditionally

the frame is big and clumsy and it was a hassle to work with. He reduced the size, just small enough for him and just enough for a pair of shoe to fit into the content of the shoe frame; allowing for a less troublesome process in the bead working while still implementing the use of traditional methods.

Spark!What inspired Mr Sng to want to learn beading the Kusat Manek was when he first saw the skilfulness of his neighbour and the ability to make something beautiful with small beads. The finished work of the beautifully crafted Kasut Manek was what inspired him the most.

MasterandDisciple

Well as we know trying to pursue something or to do something there will be some problems faced, found out from Mr Sng that during his process, he did not experience much of a struggle. If the problem that he experienced so far is the problem would lie on the financial sustainability issue. It would not have been easy for Mr Sng without the support, from big supporting companies and events such as Singapore tourism board and YourSingapore etc. These companies supported him in the running of the shop and many other things such as advertising, rental and special privileges.

In respect to his sales, Mr Sng is not particular if he sells or doesn’t sell his collection of crafted Kasut Manek. Like as he said, surviving solely on the sales of Kasut Manek itself is a fantasy and not something practical as there are hardly any customers, as a result, he

doesn’t expect much.

A reason as to why there are so few perspective buyers of Kasut Manek would be due to its high cost at $900 a pair. At such a price, consumers are more apt to spend such a sum on a high-end fashion bag or shoe from Prada, Gucci or whatever other brands there are. Not many people or youths right now would want to spend money on things that are not interesting or branded to them.

To make it through each day, he sells other small goods to generate small bits of revenue. It is fortunate that the Singapore Tourism Board and YourSingapore help him as it would be impossible to make

Through

alleysPeaksandV

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it through each day on the meagre generated revenue.

To reiterate his point, he loves what he is doing so much that problems don’t seem like much of a big deal to him.

As a craftsman most people would ask this typical question. Where does he get his inspiration from. Apparently Mr Sng gets his design and inspiration by going out looking at things. Kasut Manek is related to cross stitching, so some times, he goes around looking at cross stitching designs he will then picks out certain elements or motifs. Which are suitable for the shoe or slipper’s design.

When he is in the right mood, he would re- arrange the elements and the design he picked out by sketching it out on a piece of graph paper – Yes, those that any secondary school student uses for graph-construction in school mathematics paper.

Idea!An

zoneomfort

As a craftsman he sure does need to have a comfortable spot where he can sit down and work his way through. The Kasut Manek master sits down on his small cosy work desk in the middle of his shop with all his necessary tools for creating the Kasut Manek with the design laid out nicely upon a template for reference.

The shop that he works in has this tropical woody feel and it is quite dimly lighted, with nice bright daylight shining into the shop. A cosy and peaceful place it is.

The

After settling down on his spot, he then concentrates on doing a certain number of rows of beads at a time, which can take up about two hours at any time. Mr Sng added that he cannot work any longer than 2 hours in a single span because firstly he is getting old and his body isn’t as strong as he was when he was younger. If he stays any longer than that his eyes would get tired and his neck muscles would start to ache.

To complete the design of the shoe if he works every day, it’ll take about a few weeks to finish it. Follow that, he then proceeds to send the completed design over to a traditional shoe maker and lets

WayMaster

of theC

them affix it onto a shoe and then it is done.

As he has mentioned previously, the cobbler’s part of making the shoe is really dying out as a trade. As a result, Mr Sng went to learn the basics of making the shoe himself, and also had the foresight to document the entire process of making the shoe in a video, just so in case should all the shoemakers one day die out, he would at the very least, have a backup plan of creating his Kasut Manek. Since he would know how to craft the shoe and also by having video showcasing the process if he ever were to forget, he could easily remind himself of the process. Furthermore, the video preserves the craft of shoe-making; allowing him to share it with people in the future, should they be interested in learning the craft. He

emphasized that it is important to know how to do it from A-Z and not be totally dependent on others.

Mr Sng said that in his entire life he has only made one pair of Kasut Manek on his own from the designing, beadwork, making of the shoe and finally the implanting of the beadwork into the shoe.

He has never done any more than that because, primarily because Mr Sng said that it’s quite laborious a process and he needs more practice because his skill of making the final product of the shoe isn’t that good, this is because he didn’t focus and push himself

all that much on learning to perfect the creation of the shoe. Secondly it is because if he were to do it all by himself, last few dying trade cobblers then would lose him as a customer; putting them at risk of going out of business. At the end of it he is contented that he has gone this far.

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Passing ontheLegacy

As a master of Kasut Manek, Mr Sng also offers classes, to those who seek to learn the skill. He holds one on one class to his student. He not only wants continue to make these rich beautiful cultural shoes but he also wishes that the skill of crafting the shoes and the shoe itself won’t die out, hence the class to educate others on the works of it.

He said that averagely he has about 2 students in each month, and he is more than pleased that the students do follow up with what he teaches. Hopefully, they too go on to teach others and pass on the skill.

90%

10%

DisciplesWho are the students that Mr Sng teaches? 90% foreigners and 10% local.

Local

Foreigners

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Total average amount of students a year

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QuestionsQ: “Mr Sng are you born

a peranakan ?”A: “Nope I’m not”

Q: “In the future wise, do you think there will be people who would do what you do?”

A: “Yes I think that there may be people who would do what I do, but I think it’s very rare, given the new generation of youths who want to be someone doing something big.”

Random

Q: “Do you have children?”A: “Yes, I have a daughter”

Q: “So given that your love for making Kasut Manek, I guess you taught your daughter to how learn bead them, am I right?”

A: “Haha Yes, she does know the basics and stuff, taught her how to do it when she was young. She was quite interested to learn the skill as a hobby only.”

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This are the last few advises of Mr Sng. Peranakan beaded shoes are part of Singapore and Malaysia culture as we are all linked.

Whoever wants to learn this craft to sell the culture of Singapore is really something good and is also what Mr Sng really hopes for and he wishes that such an amazing culture will not die out and that it to be promoted as cultural exchange to foreigners and not only to them also to the younger generations of the locals.

Advice

Q: “So does your daughter have any interest to want to follow your footsteps after her retirement?”

A: “Haha. I don’t think so, that will be so unlikely”

KasutManekKasut Manek is a malay word for beaded shoes“ “

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Some of Mr Sng’s beading works

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His working process

The red shoe is Mr Sng’s Favourite pair

Mr Sng’s cosy workspaceHumble Mr Sng

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The smallest shoe Mr Sng made and its not for sale.

eranakanlacesP

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Little Shophouse 43 Bussorah St, Kampong Glam

Bebe’s Niche East Coast Road, #01-15/16, Singapore. Tel: 428788

Yee Swee Fan Beaded Shoe B1-49 Golden Mile tower, 6001 beach road Singapore. Tel: 199589

Katong Antique House 208 East Coast Road. Tel: 6345 8544

Guan Antiques 31 Kampong Bahru Road. Tel: 6226 2281

C K Tan Gallery 03-18 Tanglin Shopping Ctr. Tel: 6733 7318

Ancient Antique Furniture 322D Changi Road. Tel: 6344 5006

Straits Antiques 50 East Coast Road 02-122

Jade Antique House 183 Upper Paya Lebar Road. Tel: 6287 0298

Bebe’s Niche 86 East Coast Road 01-15/16. Tel: 6247 8781

Yee Swee Fan Beaded Shoe B1-49 Golden Mile Tower,

to getPlaces

Kasut Manek in Singapore

Peranakanstores to

Shopin Signapore

Beach Road. Tel: 6295 2328

Peranakan Corner 83 Seng Poh Road #212 Tiong Bahru Market

Bibik’s Place 14 Aliwal St. Tel: 6299 3239

Blue Ginger 97 Tanjong Pagar Rd. Tel: 6222 3928

Chilli Padi 11 Joo Chiat Place #01-03. Tel: 6247 9531

Dulukala Peranakan Restaurant Beauty World Centre #04-01. Tel: 64652036

House of Peranakan Cuisine Meritus Negara Hotel 10 Claymore Rd. Tel: 6733 4411

House of Peranakan Cuisine by the Sea 1020 East Coast Parkway Singapore Tennis Centre. Tel: 6242 0810

Baba Inn & Lounge 103 Frankel Ave. Tel: 6445 2404

Nonya & Baba 262 River Valley Rd. Tel: 6734 1382

Pepper & Spice Upper Paya Lebar Rd. Tel: 6281 7089

Peranakan Inn 210 East Coast Rd. Tel: 6440 6195

My Mum’s Cuisine290 Orchard Road, Para-gon B1-05B Orchard. Tel: 8362038

Straits Chinese Restaurant 5 Shenton Way #B1-16/17 UIC Building. Tel: 62258683

Novena Peranakan Restaurant 273 Thomson Road No. 01-02 Novena Garden. Tel: 65-256-9337

Straits Chinese Restaurant 15 Queen Street #01-03 Tan Chong Tower. Tel: 63393683 Pow Sing Chicken Rice and Nonya Food 506 Tampines Central 1 Stall 19. Tel: 6787 0800

Pow Sing Nonya Food 33 Serangoon Garden Way. Tel: 6282 7972

Peranakanstores to

Dinein Signapore

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Lester V. Ledesma (May 2, 2011), Robert Sng: 100 hours to make a pair of slippers. Retrieved from http://www.cnngo.com/singapore/shop/robert-sng-shoemaker-who-slaves-100-man-hours-over-pair-kasut-manek-slippers-733673

Kasut Manek (2011) In Wikipedia. Retrieved from http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kasut_Manek

Czech Republic (2012) In Wikipedia. Retrieved from http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Czech_Republic

Peranakan cut beads (2010) In Wikipedia. Retrieved from http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Peranakan_cut_beads

Thulaja, Naidu Ratnala. (January 29, 1999). Kasut manek mak-ers, NLB Singapore infopedia. Retrieved, from http://infopedia.nl.sg/articles/SIP_198_2005-01-18.html

Peranakan (2011) In Wikipedia. Retrieved from http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Peranakan

(2012) Bright Gold ROUND 2mm Smooth Beads [Digital im-age]. Retrieved from http://www.etsy.com/listing/71604427/bright-gold-round-2mm-smooth-beads-200

(2012) Apollo 4MM Round Faceted Beads [Digital image]. Retrieved from http://www.etsy.com/listing/67611996/apollo-4mm-round-faceted-beads-100

Clog (2012) In Wikipedia. Retrieved from http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Clogs

Bibliography

Leong Weng Kam (April 13, 1979), Clog-making is another declining business, The Straits Times, Page 1.Retrieved from http://newspapers.nl.sg/Digitised/Article.aspx?articleid=straitstimes19790413.2.145.2.6&sessionid=d518b2e3c0184982b535946c562442fb&keyword=Clog-making+is+another+declining+business&token=is%2cbusiness%2canother%2cdeclining%2cclog-making

IDEAS DISPENSER (December 8, 2010), The Best of Singapore, retrieved from http://ideasdispenser.com.au/

Oxford Dictionary (2012), Clog, Retrieved from http://oxford-dictionaries.com/definition/clog?q=clogs=clogs

Kuih. (2010) In Wikipedia. Retrieved from http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kuih

Catherine GS Lim. (2003). Gateway to Peranakan Culture. Asiapac Books Pte Ltd, Singapore.

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