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December 12, 2010: Tokyo Travel Day #6! Sawada!More Star Bar! We eat a half pound of fat for lunch!Strolling down Ginza Dori!

December 11, 2010 by Joseph Mallozzi

First, the Jelly update.  She’s on her way home today!

So last night, I paid a return visit to one of my favorite sushi restaurants in Tokyo: Sawada.  Ifigured that since this was Ivon’s first visit to the city, he should be treated to a true sushi feast. And Sawada did not disappoint…

(https://josephmallozzi.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/img_0238.jpg)It's a tiny sushi-ya with counter only seating. Master Koji Sawada, with the help of his lovely

assistant, works his magic on the other side.

(https://josephmallozzi.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/img_0240.jpg)After starting with some salted gingko nuts, we moved onto steamed abalone and abalone liver.

(https://josephmallozzi.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/img_0241.jpg)Then some sweet tako (octopus).

(https://josephmallozzi.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/img_0243.jpg)Sawada-san's more labor-intensive aburi method...

(https://josephmallozzi.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/img_0244.jpg)Yields delightfully delicious results. Here, the saba (mackerel).

(https://josephmallozzi.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/img_0245.jpg)The bonito was possessed of a sweet smokiness that lingered long after it had melted in your

mouth.

(https://josephmallozzi.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/img_0246.jpg)

Sawada-san at work on our maki.

(https://josephmallozzi.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/img_0249.jpg)Baby snapper maki with shiso and Japanese chives.

(https://josephmallozzi.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/img_0248.jpg)A first for me: cooked sea cucumber eggs. Texturally very close to crispy tofu skin but with a

wonderful savory flavor all its own.

(https://josephmallozzi.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/img_0252.jpg)What looks like well-marbled beef is actually an expertly carved slab of toro (fatty tuna).

(https://josephmallozzi.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/img_0257.jpg)The toro was roasted over an open flame. And, yes, it tasted as good as it looks. Unbelievably

good.

Then, we moved on to the nigiri.  We had ika (squid), what I believe was saury, two differentkinds of horse mackerel, clam, ark shell, various tunas, hirame…

(https://josephmallozzi.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/img_0260.jpg)We were presented with a couple of the biggest prawn I've ever seen. Note the rainbow coloring

of the tails.

(https://josephmallozzi.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/img_0269.jpg)And served.

(https://josephmallozzi.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/img_0266.jpg)Gorgeous gizzard shad.

(https://josephmallozzi.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/img_0263.jpg)Chu-toro. The wagyu of the sea!

(https://josephmallozzi.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/img_0264.jpg)Chuo-otoro.

(https://josephmallozzi.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/img_0265.jpg)And Otoro.

We were served up several more nigiri, then capped our meal with a terrific tamago.  Theverdict?  Ivon said it was the best meal he’s ever had.  Mission accomplished.  Since it was myreturn visit to the restaurant, I gifted Sawada-san a bottle of ice wine and then we were on ourway. 

We were feeling pretty good, partly due to the incredible meal we’d enjoyed, partly due to thethree carafes of premium sake we knocked back.  And so, following a late night stroll throughGinza…

(https://josephmallozzi.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/img_0272.jpg)

…we found ourselves back at what is fast-becoming our favorite watering hole, Star Bar, wherewe sampled a few more of Master Kishi-san’s creations…

(https://josephmallozzi.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/img_0273.jpg)My new drink of choice: the Moscow Mule. Served in a copper cup!

(https://josephmallozzi.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/img_0274.jpg)The Star Bar version of the Dark and Stormy made with dark rum and fresh pomegranate juice.

(https://josephmallozzi.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/img_0277.jpg)On Ivon's insistence, we tried Abstinthe. Kishi-san had to open the bottle for us. We likened it to

the flavor of Pernod with a turpentine kick.

(https://josephmallozzi.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/img_0279.jpg)Hair of the dog

It was admittedly a rough night after that and I ended up sleeping in to 9:00 a.m. the followingmorning.  Ivon was up at 8:00 a.m. and took a stroll in nearby Hibiya Park where he claims he sawa family of feral cats living in the park.  We walked through later that day but there was no sign offeral cats.  I wonder what color these feral cats were.  I’m guessing pink maybe?

We headed out at about 11:00 for lunch.

(https://josephmallozzi.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/img_0280.jpg)As the stores set to open, people line up outside the entrances in anticipation. In anticipation for

what, exactly, I'm not sure. I guess they simply love their shopping.

(https://josephmallozzi.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/img_0281.jpg)Speaking of line-ups, there's always a line-up at this waffle place so, on our way to lunch, Ivondecided to find out way. Well, it turns out it's because their chocolate waffles are awesome. We

breached strict etiquette by actually eating them on the go.

After looking for an appropriate lunch spot, we settled on a yakiniku/barbecue grill join on theseventh floor of some building.  We were seated in a tiny two-seat table and presented with amenu that broke down the entire cow by cut.  We ultimately setttled for something called the“premium” cut.  To Ivon’s horror, we later realized that, apparently, “premium” is synonymouswith “fat”.

(https://josephmallozzi.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/img_0291.jpg)That is some major marbling!

(https://josephmallozzi.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/img_0295.jpg)

Following lunch, Ivon was feeling a little on the queasy side, so he decided to head back to thehotel for an hour or so to recuperate.  For my part, I decided to counter the fat I’d just consumedwith my go-to cure-all: sugar!

(https://josephmallozzi.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/img_0303.jpg)It looks like a sandwich but the meatballs and baguette are actually cream-filled choux pastry.

(https://josephmallozzi.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/img_0318.jpg)Feeling much better later, I stopped by the Pierre Marcolini Cafe and dropped off some

doughnuts for the gals, then took a stroll through Hibiya Park. Didn't spot any feral cats.

(https://josephmallozzi.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/img_0324.jpg)Wonder if Ivon meant these guys.

Ivon was also feeling much better later, so we decided to check out the Ginza area – specificallyGinza Dori which is open to foot traffic on the weekend.  As we were walking along, we werestopped by a Japanese television crew and interviewed about the differences between Christmasin Japan and Christmas in North America. 

(https://josephmallozzi.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/img_0329.jpg)

My impression was that, while North American Christmas was a time for family, JapaneseChristmas was a holiday for kids and couples.  Still, for what it was worth, Tokyo out-Christmases any North American city I’ve ever visited.

(https://josephmallozzi.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/img_0330.jpg)Our interviewer

They asked us if we were familiar with Christmas cake.  Apparently, it’s tradition for the Japaneseto eat strawberry shortcake this time of year (which I’d choose over fruit cake any day).  They alsoasked us if we were familiar with the tradition of the Christmas boot, a small plastic boot that isfilled with traditional Christmas treats (ie. seasame crackers) and gifted to kids.  I pointed out thatwe hang stockings instead of boots but it’s a testament to the spirit of Christmas that we can cometogether in communal footwear-stuffing.

(https://josephmallozzi.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/img_0336.jpg)We walked around some more and saw this.

on December 11, 2010 at 5:27 pm

(https://josephmallozzi.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/img_0340.jpg)And this.

(https://josephmallozzi.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/img_0343.jpg)And this lovely pantsuit.

And then it was back to the hotel to get ready for dinner. 

Next up: Pachon!  My toy store haul!  Out and about with Keiko!

Posted in Food, Tokyo | Tagged Sawada, Star Bar | 33 Comments

33 Responses

ThornyroseOh ye gods, you have me actually drooling at pictures. And chocolate waffles? I tend tobe a strict traditionalist, but that sounds just too lovely…glad Jelly is better and thatyou are dutifully walking off the calories. Now, if you could only find out where thatinterview might air, or if someone in japan would you-tube it….thanks for taking the time toshare, and keep up the fun and good work.

on December 11, 2010 at 6:25 pm

on December 11, 2010 at 6:41 pm

dasNdanger1. Yay, Jelly!!!

2. Yay, Jelly!!!

3. That camera guy is seriously cute. The interviewer ain’t bad, either.

4. At first glance I thought Sawada-san was Brian Michael Bendis.

5. Lucky you – I have yet to try absinthe. Hmmm…now THERE’S something you can send me!

6. The prawn are too pretty to eat.

7. Isn’t there something toxic in copper, and that’s why you shouldn’t cook or eat directly fromit unless it’s lined?? Was that cup lined, Joe???

~~~~~~~

Busy day – raked leaves all afternoon with Mr. Das. We have to bring them to the curb (well,street) for the township to suck up in their giant leaf sucker truck next time it comes around.We do this every year (once we bagged them all and took them directly to the municipledump, but that was a pain in the arse, considering we have 9 deciduous trees and severalbushes, not to mention the neighbors’ leaves that blow into our yard).

Anyhoo – second load of leaves that we carted to the curb, our neighbor across the street cameout and started yelling at us, cursing like he was straight out of a Quentin Tarantino flick,upset that we were putting the leaves in the street LIKE WE’RE SUPPOSED TO, because theymight blow into his yard. Ugh. We just shrugged – no use getting into an argument. This isn’tthe first time our invisible neighbor has suddenly materialized out of nowhere to yell at us fornothing. Anyway, Mr. Das drove his truck over the leaves to pack them down, and now it’sraining, so those suckers aren’t going anywhere. Still, I hate to have bad blood betweenneighbors, and I have no idea how to even go about talking to this guy since he seems to avoidcontact with anyone in the neighborhood. I’m just afraid he’ll be one of those guys that comesout and shoots us because he doesn’t like how we park our cars, or something.

Now I can hardly move – not sure why the work (which I’m used to) has my muscles andjoints so stiff. Maybe it’s the weather. Or maybe I need a drink.

Continue to enjoy your vacation, Butch and Sundance!

das

Tammy DixonYes, seriously weird foods! Umm, I’m guessing you won’t lose weight on this trip…..

on December 11, 2010 at 7:24 pm

on December 11, 2010 at 7:29 pm

on December 11, 2010 at 7:33 pm

on December 11, 2010 at 7:46 pm

on December 11, 2010 at 8:57 pm

Yea for Jelly! Does she have one of those doggie heating pads?

Have a good one!

Sue JacksonYaaaaay!!! Jelly’s coming home! Good news! Wish I could give her huggies andkissies!

Mmmmmm…..sushi! Looooove sushi! That sushi looks amazing! Those are biggest shrimpI’ve ever seen! Yummm!

Chocolat waffles?? Oh…my! I soooooo wanna try one! My mouth is watering looking at it.Can you sneak me one…Joe?

You and Ivon…on Japanese TV? Cool beans! I wish we could see your interview. Howawesome was that.

Love the baby doggie in the reindeer outfit! Such a cutie!

adros47Oh man! I wish I could do a gourmet tour of Japan! I love Japanese food, but yourphotos look so much more Japanese-y than the Japanese food here in Australia!

PonytailTHAT’S IT!!! I can’t stand it anymore! I’m going to Tokyo!

(Good for Jelly!!)

DPWords are too, uh, not good, to express how good (most of) that food looks.

In other news, Joe has the BEEFCAKE! of gall bladders to be able to eat pure fat, thengo out for more food.

for the love of BeckettMust have a Homer Simpson moment…

Hmm-mmm…Suuuuu-shi!

Is it decent to be hungry after 11 p.m.? Because now I am. Joe-san, you can take pictures atSawada anytime! Before today only remembered it as the sushi-at-the-diner-counter place. Canalmost taste the roasted tuna by looking at it. Did Kawada Sensei remember you from last

on December 11, 2010 at 8:58 pm

on December 11, 2010 at 8:59 pm

on December 11, 2010 at 9:28 pm

on December 11, 2010 at 9:31 pm

year?

Now about that “sake-to-me” night… Was the Absinthe safer because it wasn’t anti-freezegreen? (Although I think Das is right,) I love that copper mug. (It’s my favorite color of metal.)

Puppies! Cute Shiba Inu, sporting a coat and antlers! And the warm pantsuit on the Italianwhippet (?). How does it go wee while all dressed up?

Warm blog hugs to the Queen of the blog, Miss Jelly, for coming home. Get well, soon,sweetheart!

AlexisYippee, Jelly is home!!!!!!!!!

Those poor dogs. Honestly, a pantsuit?

for the love of Beckett ps… that should be Sawada Sensei.

AirelleThanks for the wonderful news about Jelly, the pups will be glad she is back withthem, as you are. Go Jelly, go Jelly!!Hope Ivon is not overloaded with all the foodie stuff, one word,pepto. and rest, Whatthe stomach must be saying, whoa!but seriously, thanks for the update and great pictures. ENJOY, have fun!Loved the doggy dress-ups,people are crazy with their pets there like here. Maybe we will seeyou all on tv soon with your interview.

cherluvyaHey Joe,

Wow..your blog knows who I am again. hmmm I think it is fickle.

Ewwwww, I thought I liked sushi. Your pictures have changed my mind. I like AMERICANsushi. Ewwwww, those poor prawns…I don’t want to eat ANYTHING that remotely lookslike it has a face…or a tail for that matter. Ewwww

Okay…you were redeemed by the chocolate waffles. Those not only sounded wonderful…they looked YUMMY… I also ♥ஜ☆loved♥ஜ☆ the street pictures. I think those “by chance”meetings tend to linger a little longer. Your pictures will make them last. *smiles*

So happy to hear you are having a wonderful time. I guess since Ivon’s luggage is tuckedsafely in his room…he isn’t losing anything…oh…wait…that pass thing. Okay..hehehe

on December 11, 2010 at 9:32 pm

on December 11, 2010 at 10:11 pm

on December 11, 2010 at 10:22 pm

on December 12, 2010 at 1:13 am

on December 12, 2010 at 2:50 am

on December 12, 2010 at 3:07 am

Best to you Joe,Always,Cheryl

cherluvyaMaybe a blindfold would work when eating sushi…hmmm

GilderNews from Twitterland: Jamil W. Smith has jumped into the pool! Twitter: @limajamil.

sylviaAnother hoo ray for Jelly!!And, as I drool at the pix…YUM!

PBMomI’m so glad to hear that Jelly girl is going home. I bet you cannot wait to see her.

Meanwhile, your vacation sounds great. Ivon has brought you a little less structure andyou are adapting well to it. You’ve brought Ivon good vacation mojo. You guys need to goaway together often. You make a good traveling match.

Did you get to see your interviews on the news later?

Continue having a blast. Love hearing about it.

Oh, guess what Patrick did last night, Joe? He sat down on the bed next to me. Looked at me,tapped me on the chest and said, “Mom.” The earth stopped on its axis for a full second whileI took that all in and promptly broke up into happy tears. He has said,”Maaaaa” and leanedinto me, but to “label” me “Mom” with all those sounds, not just Maaaa. PRICELESS. Awonderful, early Christmas present.

JYSits also a korean tradition to eat cake…of any kind on xmas. And that was some prettywelll marbled beef.

AnaisHello !ça va bien? moi oui

Merci pour ces photos, c’est dommage car je ne supporte pas la nourriture japonaise ça merend malade =S…de toute façon la meilleur cuisine du monde c’est celle du Sud Ouest de laFrance (foie gras, magret, huitre, cannelé, truffe, caviare)…et oui toutes ces spécialités

on December 12, 2010 at 5:31 am

on December 12, 2010 at 5:45 am

on December 12, 2010 at 6:47 am

on December 12, 2010 at 6:50 am

regroupées dans une seul région…ça fait rêvé!!

Lol cool l’interview vous êtes un vrai star ^^!! ♥

Bonne semaine!Gros bisou!

noelm@PBMom Yay, Patrick! Hope you didn’t scare him off with the tears, LOL! I criedyesterday because my son got his first pimple, and he’s now embarrassed about the no-singing-at-the-table song he made up when he was 4. He’s turning 12 in a month.

Chevron26.com – News » Stargate Daily Digest for December12th 2010 2:43pm[…] December 12, 2010: Tokyo Travel Day #6! Sawada! More Star Bar! We eat a half pound offat for lunch!…. December 12, 2010: Tokyo Travel Day #6! Sawada! More Star Bar! We eat ahalf pound of fat for […]

JeffWI’m with Alexis, I don’t understand people who dress up their dogs…the dogs alwayslook so pitiful.

Speaking of dogs, my dog Lucy has a message for Jelly:

Man, that Chu-toro looks good! Guess I’m taking Barb to Sushi tonight…

Safe travels Joe!

Deni@PBMom: Go Patrick! I can only imagine your happiness

on December 12, 2010 at 6:53 am

on December 12, 2010 at 7:43 am

on December 12, 2010 at 9:01 am

on December 12, 2010 at 9:05 am

on December 12, 2010 at 9:11 am

Hi Joe, so glad Jelly’s home! Not too long before you get to see her, hey? I’d bechomping at the bit to get home

Sparrow_hawkFirst – great news about Jelly!

I hope to get back to Japan in another year or two and, although I had consideredskipping Tokyo and going straight to Kanazawa and points west, but I have nowreconsidered. I’ve got to go back at least for a day or two so I can eat at Sawada! Do you pickyour sushi or does Sawada-san keep making recommendations until you cry for mercy?

And Joe: you finish your sushi meals just like I do – with tamago! (sweet omelet for you non-sushi folks) Of course, you then go out and eat two or three desserts after that whereas I headhome and collapse in a sushi-induced coma.

I enjoyed the East/West Christmas Culture Comparison. I’ll bet you’re going to be on JapaneseTV!

So, is the Imperial Hotel living up to expectations?Do you find the location convenient, especially for strolling the Ginza?Are you and Ivon going to make it to a Noh or Kabuki performance?

@das: Loved your Pendergast dream! The dogs may have been a result of the search dogs inStill Life with Crows. And, for the record, I think Paul Bettany would make an excellentPendergast. And thanks for sharing the Demon Piper! We’ll chat more offline about Brimstonewhen circumstances permit you to start it.

Sean D.Hi Joe,

If you get a chance, try a variety of usucha and koicha while you’re across seas and letme know if you have any particular preferences.

Sean D.

Shadow StepSo that camera crew had no problem spotting the gaijin, eh?

xxxevilgrinxxxI think I put on ten pounds just reading this post! I’m glad to hear that Jelly’s wellenough to be going home

crazymom1

on December 12, 2010 at 10:59 am

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on December 12, 2010 at 12:46 pm

on December 12, 2010 at 2:38 pm

on December 13, 2010 at 5:36 am

on December 13, 2010 at 7:49 am

@noelm You just have to teach them perspective. Once after GeekBoy complained thatI was embarassing him in WalMart (the clerk and I were admiring the pretty blue colorof the Boone’s Farm wine product), I jumped on the back of the shopping cart and rodeit down the parking lot to our car. He’s never complained about my behavior since.

AND, at this moment GeekBoy and Mr Crazymom are on their way to “meet” Cheetah, aBasenji mix who will most likely be joining our family. Since they went to this meeting with aleash, collar, and doggy seatbelt, I’m pretty sure Cheetah will be coming home with them.

Lloyd67Hello Joe !

I’m very happy for Jelly !!!! yiha !And Nice pics lol

I have any question on SGU :

Today, how much are still on the destiny ?

thank you Joe

Sparrow_hawkHey! I see Ivon ran into one of the Shinsengumi while out on the Ginza.

PBMom@noelm No, didn’t scare him with the tears. First moments huh–first pimple withmany more to come. Rough times for a teenage boy (getting embarrassed, momswanting to embarrass, etc.) Hugs.

JonmusEThose Prawns look lovely. Wish I could find a place in/near pittsburgh with suchyummies

SimonThe fish looks so good!

ShinyYay for Jelly! So glad Jelly is home with her buddies.

That blonde nurse looks like the Candy White anime, when she was attending nursingschool. Don’t remember white gloves in the cartoon, or the ghostie makeup.

The sushi looks so tasty; I have allergies to some seafood but I toss caution to the wind forsushi; that’s what Benadryl is for. That pretty snapper with the chives is well worth the painfulhives.

Absinthe: The Danger Drink, aka the Magic Shrooms of the Liquor Cabinet, aka Crazy Juice.May I suggest avoiding the absinthe in favor of the very yummy looking Dark and Stormy?

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