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#P551 - Ameria’s PrideFretwork Clock inspired by 18th century Victorianelegance. 28”H x 16”W. Requires a 3 1/2” clock insert.
GENERAL SCROLLSAW TIPS & TECHNIQUES The following scrollsaw tips and techniques are intended to get you started and on your way to scrollsaw success.Not only will you find these techniques helpful in completing the this project, you will also find that they can be appliedto many other scrollsaw projects as well.
HARDWOODS VS PLYWOODS Selecting the type of material you will use is very important for the final outcome of your project. This project hasbeen designed so that hardwoods, plywoods, or a combination can be used to create your work of art. Hardwoods have their advantages as well as their disadvantages. They come in a variety of species, colors and grainpatterns, yet they are more time consuming requiring more sanding, are more likely to warp and are more expensiveto use. Plywoods, on the other hand, are less expensive, require less sanding, and come in a variety of standard thicknesses.They also are less likely to develop cracks or warp. We do, however, recommend that you use a top grade plywoodwithout voids, such as the Baltic and Finnish birches.
SANDING For most projects, it is best to sand the work piece prior to applying the paper pattern and cutting the design. Onceyou’ve cut the design, and removed the paper pattern, it may be necessary to lightly sand any glue residue remaining,along with any “fuzz” on the bottom side.
BLADE SELECTION There are many opinions pertaining to which blade to use with which type and thickness of material, as well as,with how intricate the design in the project is. The more timeyou put into scrolling, the more your choice of which blade touse will become personal preference. For the beginningscroller we make the following recommendations to getyou started:
USING THE PATTERNS Downloadable patterns give you the advantage of printing the patterns on your own printer at your own convenience.Be sure to download all of the file and save it to a disk or your harddrive according to your computer software’sinstructions. Once you have printed the number of pattern pieces that you will need to complete your projects, you are readyto apply the pattern to your work pieces. Apply the repositionable spray adhesive as directed in the next section. If your project requires piecing 2 or moresheets of paper together to make the full-size pattern piece, simply follow the instructions below for accurate alignment.
Blade Size Recommended#2/0 or #2
#5 or #7
#7 or #9
Material Thickness1/16” - 1/4”
1/4” - 1/2”
1/2” - 3/4” or thicker
Step 1Using a straightedge and a craft knife, cut on the dashed“Pattern Overlap Lines” to remove the excess paper.
Step 2Next, align the sections and secure together with clear tape.Now, apply the repositionable spray adhesive to the backsideof the paper pattern as instructed in the next section.
Cut onsolid line forFrame only.
Frame & BackStock: 1/8” - 1/4”, cut 1 eachLeft pattern piece.
Cut ondashed linefor Back
Patte
rn o
verl
ap li
ne Cleartape
Craft knife
Ruler
Patternoverlapline
REPOSITIONABLE SPRAY ADHESIVE Using a repositionable spray adhesive is the easiest and quickest way to transfer a pattern to your work piece afterphoto copying it. In a well ventilated area, lightly spray the backside of the paper pattern. Allow it to dry only until tacky- approximately 20 - 30 seconds. Then apply it to the work piece, smoothing any wrinkles if necessary. Two common problems that sometimes occur when using repositionable spray adhesive for the first time is applyingthe right amount onto the back of the pattern. Spraying too little may result in the pattern lifting off of the project beforeyou have finished cutting. If this occurs, clear scotch tape can be used to secure the pattern back into position. On theother hand, spraying too much will make it difficult to remove the pattern, If this occurs, simply use a hand held hair
dryer to heat the glue, which will loosen the pattern allowing it to be easilyremoved.
DRILLING STARTER HOLES When drilling starter holes it is best to drill close to a corner, ratherthan in the middle of the waste areas, as it will take less time for the bladeto reach the pattern line.
STACK CUTTING Stack cutting is fairly simple to do and can save you a lot of time whenyou have 2 or more identical pieces to cut for a project. If you are fairlynew to scrollsawing and stack cutting, we recommend cutting no morethan a total thicknessof 1/2” for bestresults. On projects with
fairly simple shapes to cut out, 2 or 3 layers could be held togetherby double-sided tape, or by using spray glue on paper to sandwichbetween the work pieces. On more intricate projects we suggest using #18 wire nails orbrads slightly longer than the total thickness of the stack you arecutting. Tack the nails into the waste areas you will cut out, alongwith a few around the outside of the project. If the nail has gonethrough the bottom of the work piece, use a hammer to tap it flush,or use coarse sandpaper to sand the points flush with the bottomof the work piece. If you are stack cutting hardwoods, do not tack the nail too closeto the pattern line or it may cause the wood to split. Another option would be to predrill for the nails with a slightlysmaller drill bit so the nail will fit snugly and hold the layers together securely.
SAWING THIN WOODS Occasionally you may find it difficult to control your workpiece when cutting in thin hardwoods or plywoods. Thefollowing suggestions should help to eliminate or reduce this problem.1. If you have a variable speed saw, reduce the speed to 1/2 to 3/4 of high speed.2. If you do not have a variable speed saw, it will help to stack cut 2 or more layers of your material to keep bettercontrol of the workpiece.3. For cutting any thickness of material it is very beneficial to keep at least one hand, if not both, partially touching thetable with your fingers for better control.4. Using a smaller blade with more teeth per inch helps to slow down how fast the blade is cutting. But keep in mindthat if the blade is leaving burn marks you will need to slow the speed down or use a blade with less teeth per inch.
VEINING Veining is a simple technique that will bring a lifelike
appearance to your project. The veins of a leaf or the folds
of clothing will look more realistic when this technique is
incorporated. To vein, simply saw all solid black lines as
indicated on the pattern. Some areas of the pattern you will
be able to vein by sawing inward from the outside edge, while
in other areas you will need to drill a tiny starter hole for the
blade.
AUXILIARY TABLE Most scrollsaws on the market today have an opening in
the table around the blade that is much larger than what you
really need. This often causes small and delicate fretwork to
break off on the downward stroke of the blade. An easy solution
is to add a wooden auxiliary table to the top of the metal table
on your saw.
To make an auxiliary table, choose a piece of 1/4” - 3/8” plywood
similar to the size of your current saw’s table. If you choose, you can
cut this plywood to the same shape as the metal table on your saw, or
any shape or size you prefer. However, we do recommend that you make
the table larger than what you think you will need for the size of the
projects you will make in the future.
Next, set the auxiliary table on top of the metal table. From the
underside of the metal table, use a pencil to mark the location where
the blade will feed through. Then turn the auxiliary table over and drill
a 1/16” - 1/8” diameter hole, or slightly larger than the blade you will
be using.
Finally, apply a couple of strips of double-sided carpet tape to the
metal table on each side of the blade. Then, firmly press the auxiliary
table onto the double-sided carpet tape, making sure that the blade is
centered in the hole.
FINISHING TECHNIQUES If you’ve made your project from hardwood, we recommend dipping your project in a dishpan type of container
that contains a penetrating oil such as Watco, Tung, or others. After dipping, allow the excess oil to drain back into
the pan and then follow the manufacturer’s instructions.
If you have chosen to use plywood, such as Baltic Birch, you can use any of the wide variety of wood stains
available on the market. We do, however, recommend sanding the surface thoroughly, in order for the plywood to
accept the stain more evenly.
As a final finish step, we highly recommend using a clear varathane type spray for a protective coating.
#P551 The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002 • All Rights Reserved www.greatamericanscrollsaw.com • a division of The Berry Basket
GREAT AMERICAN
DOWNLOADABLE PATTERNS TM
3
6
12
9
II
M
J
H
R
Q K
Top Assembly
J
L
#P551 - America’s Pride Fretwork Clock
P
N
O
#P551 - America’s PrideFretwork Clock
Instructions1. Select your material from a varietyof hardwoods or solid core plywood.2. Measure each pattern piece andcut the work pieces to sizeaccordingly. Sand as necessary.3. Make all pattern pieces byadhering the paper patterns to thework pieces with a repositionablespray adhesive. Cut the outer shapesand any interior designs. And drillwhere indicated.4. Remove all paper patterns. Sandwhere needed. The edges can berounded by sanding or using a smallroundover router bit if desired.Assemble by first attaching thesides to the Front and Back. Nextattach the Front and Side Overlays.Then attach the Bottom Floor andthe Spacer.5. Now attach the Window Panelsto the Front Panel, along with theremaining Spacer. Then attach theBack Panel. Lower this assemblyover the Spacer on the BottomFloor and secure in place. Then attach the Top Floor Spacerinto position, and attach the TopFloor to the Front & Back Panelassembly. Now, assemble the TopWindows to the Clock Panel Front.Carefully insert the Side and FrontFence tabs into position, and thenattach the Clock Panel Back. Lowerthis assembly over the Top FloorSpacer and secure in place. Next,attach the Top Roofs and Crest,and the Clock Overlays.
#P551
E R
B
A
C
B
F
G
R
FF
Bottom Assembly
S
D
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
Base Front & Back (A)Stock: 1/4”, cut 1 each. Right pattern piece.
Side
(B
)Pattern overlap line
#P551
1 each21212211 each2212122122
Base Front & BackSide
Front OverlaySide OverlayBottom Floor
Front & Back PanelWindow Panel
Top FloorClock Panel Front & Back
Top WindowSide Fence
Front FenceClock Overlay
CrestTop Window Overlay
Top RoofTop Floor Spacer
SpacerBottom Window Overlay
Description Item Qty
ABCDEFGHIJKLMNOPQRS
#P551 - America’s Pride Fretwork Clock
1/4”T x 5”W x 15”L1/4”T x 5”W x 7 1/2”L1/8”T x 3 1/8”W x 15 1/4”L1/8”T x 3 1/8”W x 8”L3/8”T x 8 3/4”W x 16 1/2”L1/4”T x 9 1/2”W x 14 1/2”L1/4”T x 7 1/2”W x 9 1/2”L3/8”T x 6 1/2”W x 14 1/2”L1/4”T x 10 1/2”W x 13”L1/4”T x 5 3/4”W x 7 3/8”L1/8”T x 2”W x 3 1/2”L1/8”T x 2”W x 8 1/4”L1/16” - 1/8”T x 3 3/4”W x 7 1/2”L1/4”T x 9 1/2”W x 15 1/4”L1/16” - 1/8”T x 2”W x 3 3/4”L1/4”T x 4 7/8”W x 7 1/4”L1/4”T x 2 1/2”W x 7”L1/4”T x 3 13/16”W x 7”L1/16” - 1/8”T x 3 5/16”W x 7 1/2”L
Size
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
Bas
e F
ron
t &
Bac
k (A
)St
ock:
1/4
”, c
ut 1
eac
h. L
eft p
atte
rn p
iece
.
Smal
l das
hed
lines
indi
cate
plac
emen
t of F
ront
Ove
rlay
(C)
on B
ase
Fron
t onl
y.
Side (B)
Use
glu
e an
d #1
8 x
5/8”
fini
shin
g na
ils.
Pattern overlap line
#P551
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
#P551
Sid
e (B
)St
ock:
1/4
”, c
ut 2
Smal
l das
hed
line
indi
cate
spl
acem
ent o
f Si
de O
verl
ay (
D)
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
Fro
nt
Ove
rlay
(C
)St
ock:
1/8
”L
eft p
atte
rn p
iece
.
Side (B)
Side Overlay (D)
Pattern overlap line
Fro
nt
Ove
rlay
(C
)St
ock:
1/8
”R
ight
pat
tern
pie
ce.U
se g
lue
and
#18
x 5/
8” f
inis
hing
nai
ls.
Side (B)Side Overlay (D)
Pattern overlap line
#P551The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
#P551
Sid
e O
verl
ay (
D)
Stoc
k: 1
/8”,
cut
2.
Atta
ch w
ith g
lue.
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
Front & Back Panel (F)Stock: 1/4”
Slot forWindow (G).
Front & Back Panel (F)Stock: 1/4”, cut 1 eachLeft pattern piece.
Attach to Spacer (R) with glue and#18 x 5/8” finishing nails.
Attach to Spacer (R) with glue and#18 x 5/8” finishing nails.
Pattern overlap line
#P551
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
Note: Door panel can be cutas an overlay with contrastingwoods, or predrill for hingesbefore sawing out door fromPanel (F). Omit cut-out fordoor panel on Back (F)
Front & Back Panel (F)Stock: 1/4”, cut 1 eachRight pattern piece.
Pattern overlap line
#P551The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
Bot
tom
Win
dow
(G
)
Side
Ove
rlay
(D)
Bottom Floor (E)Stock: 3/8”Cut on solid outside line.Left pattern piece.
Side
(B
)
Attach Spacer (R) herewith glue and finishingnails.
Back
Attach with glue and#18 x 5/8” finishingnails.
Pattern overlap line
#P551The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
Front Overlay (C)
Front & Back Door Panel (F)
Bot
tom
Win
dow
(G
)
Note: dashed lines indicate placement of Back (A) and Back Panel (F).
Front (A)
Note: Dashed lines for (F) & (G) indicateplacement on top of Floor (E).
Front
Pattern overlap line
Pattern overlap line
#P551
Bottom Floor (E)Stock: 3/8”Cut on solid outside line.Middle pattern piece.
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
#P551
Bottom Floor (E)Stock: 3/8”Cut on solid outside line.Right pattern piece.
Bot
tom
Win
dow
(G
)
Side
Ove
rlay
(D)
Side
(B
)
Pattern overlap line
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
Window Panel (G)Stock: 1/4”, cut 2
Slot for FrontPanel (F).
Attach to Spacer (R) with glue and#18 x 5/8” finishing nails.
Attach to Spacer (R) with glue and#18 x 5/8” finishing nails.
Small dashed line indicates placement of BottomWindow Overlay (S). Attach with glue or silicone.
#P551The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
Top
Flo
or
(H)
Stoc
k: 3
/8”,
cut
1L
eft p
atte
rn p
iece
.
Clo
ck P
anel
Bac
k (I
)
Clo
ck P
anel
Fro
n (I
)Top Window (J)
Side Fence (K)
Fron
t Fen
ce (
L)
Fron
t
Atta
ch T
op F
loor
Spac
er (
Q)
here
with
glu
e an
dfi
nish
ing
nails
.
Atta
ch w
ith g
lue
and
#18
x 5/
8” f
inis
hing
nai
ls.
Pattern overlap line
#P551The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
Top Window (J)
Side Fence (K)
Fron
t
Atta
ch T
op F
loor
Spac
er (
Q)
here
with
glu
e an
dfi
nish
ing
nails
.
Pattern overlap line
#P551
Top
Flo
or
(H)
Stoc
k: 3
/8”,
cut
1R
ight
pat
tern
pie
ce.
Clock Panel Front & Back (I)Stock: 1/4”, cut 1 eachTop pattern piece.Top Roof (P
)
35°
Pattern overlap line
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
Clock Panel Front & Back (I)Stock: 1/4”, cut 1 eachBottom left pattern piece.
Slot forWindow (J).
Small dashedlines indicateplacement ofOverlay (M).
Bore a hole in the Front only to insertthe clock of your choice. Be sure ofthe size opening you need as not allclocks require the same size opening.
Cut slot forSide Fence (K).
Pattern overlap line
Pattern overlap line
#P551The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
Clock Panel Front & Back (I)Stock: 1/4”, cut 1 eachBottom Right Pattern piece.
Pattern overlap line
Pattern overlap line
#P551The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
#P551
Top Window (J)Stock: 1/4”, cut 2
Slot for Clock PanelFront (I).
Attach to Top Floor Spacer(Q) with glue and #18 x 5/8”finishing nails.
Cut slotfor FrontFence (L)
Small dashed line indicatesplacement of Top WindowOverlay (O). Attach withglue or silicone.
Side Fence (K)Stock: 1/8”, cut 2
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
#P551
Clock Overlay (M)Stock: 1/16” - 1/8”, cut 2
Top
Win
do
wO
verl
ay (
O)
Stoc
k: 1
/16”
- 1
/8”,
cut
2
Fro
nt
Fen
ce (
L)
Stoc
k: 1
/8”
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
Crest (N)Stock: 1/4”Left pattern piece.
Attach to Roofwith glue and#18 x 5/8”finishing nails.
Patte
rn o
verl
ap li
ne
#P551The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
Crest (N)Stock: 1/4”Right pattern piece.
Patte
rn o
verl
ap li
ne
#P551 The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
#P551
Top Roof (P)Stock: 1/4”, cut 2
Attach Roof with glue and #18 x 5/8” finishing nails.
Attach Roof with glue and #18 x 5/8” finishing nails.
Cut at 35° Cut at 35°
Roof Front
Top Floor Spacer (Q)Stock 1/4”Attach to top of Top Floor (H) with glueand finishing nails.
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
#P551
Spacer (R)Stock 1/4”Attach to top of Bottom Floor (E) withglue and finishing nails.
Bot
tom
Win
dow
Ove
rlay
(S)
Stoc
k: 1
/16”
- 1
/8”,
cut
2
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
#P568- Birmingham Pendulum ClockRequires a pendulum movement kit (#A309 - #A312).37”H x 16”W
GENERAL SCROLLSAW TIPS & TECHNIQUES The following scrollsaw tips and techniques are intended to get you started and on your way to scrollsaw success.Not only will you find these techniques helpful in completing the this project, you will also find that they can be appliedto many other scrollsaw projects as well.
HARDWOODS VS PLYWOODS Selecting the type of material you will use is very important for the final outcome of your project. This project hasbeen designed so that hardwoods, plywoods, or a combination can be used to create your work of art. Hardwoods have their advantages as well as their disadvantages. They come in a variety of species, colors and grainpatterns, yet they are more time consuming requiring more sanding, are more likely to warp and are more expensiveto use. Plywoods, on the other hand, are less expensive, require less sanding, and come in a variety of standard thicknesses.They also are less likely to develop cracks or warp. We do, however, recommend that you use a top grade plywoodwithout voids, such as the Baltic and Finnish birches.
SANDING For most projects, it is best to sand the work piece prior to applying the paper pattern and cutting the design. Onceyou’ve cut the design, and removed the paper pattern, it may be necessary to lightly sand any glue residue remaining,along with any “fuzz” on the bottom side.
BLADE SELECTION There are many opinions pertaining to which blade to use with which type and thickness of material, as well as,with how intricate the design in the project is. The more timeyou put into scrolling, the more your choice of which blade touse will become personal preference. For the beginningscroller we make the following recommendations to getyou started:
USING THE PATTERNS Downloadable patterns give you the advantage of printing the patterns on your own printer at your own convenience.Be sure to download all of the file and save it to a disk or your harddrive according to your computer software’sinstructions. Once you have printed the number of pattern pieces that you will need to complete your projects, you are readyto apply the pattern to your work pieces. Apply the repositionable spray adhesive as directed in the next section. If your project requires piecing 2 or moresheets of paper together to make the full-size pattern piece, simply follow the instructions below for accurate alignment.
Blade Size Recommended#2/0 or #2
#5 or #7
#7 or #9
Material Thickness1/16” - 1/4”
1/4” - 1/2”
1/2” - 3/4” or thicker
Step 1Using a straightedge and a craft knife, cut on the dashed“Pattern Overlap Lines” to remove the excess paper.
Step 2Next, align the sections and secure together with clear tape.Now, apply the repositionable spray adhesive to the backsideof the paper pattern as instructed in the next section.
Cut onsolid line forFrame only.
Frame & BackStock: 1/8” - 1/4”, cut 1 eachLeft pattern piece.
Cut ondashed linefor Back
Patte
rn o
verl
ap li
ne Cleartape
Craft knife
Ruler
Patternoverlapline
REPOSITIONABLE SPRAY ADHESIVE Using a repositionable spray adhesive is the easiest and quickest way to transfer a pattern to your work piece afterphoto copying it. In a well ventilated area, lightly spray the backside of the paper pattern. Allow it to dry only until tacky- approximately 20 - 30 seconds. Then apply it to the work piece, smoothing any wrinkles if necessary. Two common problems that sometimes occur when using repositionable spray adhesive for the first time is applyingthe right amount onto the back of the pattern. Spraying too little may result in the pattern lifting off of the project beforeyou have finished cutting. If this occurs, clear scotch tape can be used to secure the pattern back into position. On theother hand, spraying too much will make it difficult to remove the pattern, If this occurs, simply use a hand held hair
dryer to heat the glue, which will loosen the pattern allowing it to be easilyremoved.
DRILLING STARTER HOLES When drilling starter holes it is best to drill close to a corner, ratherthan in the middle of the waste areas, as it will take less time for the bladeto reach the pattern line.
STACK CUTTING Stack cutting is fairly simple to do and can save you a lot of time whenyou have 2 or more identical pieces to cut for a project. If you are fairlynew to scrollsawing and stack cutting, we recommend cutting no morethan a total thicknessof 1/2” for bestresults. On projects with
fairly simple shapes to cut out, 2 or 3 layers could be held togetherby double-sided tape, or by using spray glue on paper to sandwichbetween the work pieces. On more intricate projects we suggest using #18 wire nails orbrads slightly longer than the total thickness of the stack you arecutting. Tack the nails into the waste areas you will cut out, alongwith a few around the outside of the project. If the nail has gonethrough the bottom of the work piece, use a hammer to tap it flush,or use coarse sandpaper to sand the points flush with the bottomof the work piece. If you are stack cutting hardwoods, do not tack the nail too closeto the pattern line or it may cause the wood to split. Another option would be to predrill for the nails with a slightlysmaller drill bit so the nail will fit snugly and hold the layers together securely.
SAWING THIN WOODS Occasionally you may find it difficult to control your workpiece when cutting in thin hardwoods or plywoods. Thefollowing suggestions should help to eliminate or reduce this problem.1. If you have a variable speed saw, reduce the speed to 1/2 to 3/4 of high speed.2. If you do not have a variable speed saw, it will help to stack cut 2 or more layers of your material to keep bettercontrol of the workpiece.3. For cutting any thickness of material it is very beneficial to keep at least one hand, if not both, partially touching thetable with your fingers for better control.4. Using a smaller blade with more teeth per inch helps to slow down how fast the blade is cutting. But keep in mindthat if the blade is leaving burn marks you will need to slow the speed down or use a blade with less teeth per inch.
VEINING Veining is a simple technique that will bring a lifelike
appearance to your project. The veins of a leaf or the folds
of clothing will look more realistic when this technique is
incorporated. To vein, simply saw all solid black lines as
indicated on the pattern. Some areas of the pattern you will
be able to vein by sawing inward from the outside edge, while
in other areas you will need to drill a tiny starter hole for the
blade.
AUXILIARY TABLE Most scrollsaws on the market today have an opening in
the table around the blade that is much larger than what you
really need. This often causes small and delicate fretwork to
break off on the downward stroke of the blade. An easy solution
is to add a wooden auxiliary table to the top of the metal table
on your saw.
To make an auxiliary table, choose a piece of 1/4” - 3/8” plywood
similar to the size of your current saw’s table. If you choose, you can
cut this plywood to the same shape as the metal table on your saw, or
any shape or size you prefer. However, we do recommend that you make
the table larger than what you think you will need for the size of the
projects you will make in the future.
Next, set the auxiliary table on top of the metal table. From the
underside of the metal table, use a pencil to mark the location where
the blade will feed through. Then turn the auxiliary table over and drill
a 1/16” - 1/8” diameter hole, or slightly larger than the blade you will
be using.
Finally, apply a couple of strips of double-sided carpet tape to the
metal table on each side of the blade. Then, firmly press the auxiliary
table onto the double-sided carpet tape, making sure that the blade is
centered in the hole.
FINISHING TECHNIQUES If you’ve made your project from hardwood, we recommend dipping your project in a dishpan type of container
that contains a penetrating oil such as Watco, Tung, or others. After dipping, allow the excess oil to drain back into
the pan and then follow the manufacturer’s instructions.
If you have chosen to use plywood, such as Baltic Birch, you can use any of the wide variety of wood stains
available on the market. We do, however, recommend sanding the surface thoroughly, in order for the plywood to
accept the stain more evenly.
As a final finish step, we highly recommend using a clear varathane type spray for a protective coating.
#P568 Assembly Instructions1. Select your material from a variety of hardwoodsor solid core plywood.2. Measure each pattern piece and cut the work piecesto size accordingly. Sand as necessary.3. Make all pattern pieces by adhering the paperpatterns to the work pieces with a repositionablespray adhesive. Cut the outer shapes and any interiordesigns. And drill where indicated.4. Remove all paper patterns. Sand where needed.The edges can be rounded by sanding or using asmall roundover router bit if desired.5. Assemble by first attaching the Top Window Panels(C) and Top Floor Spacer (U) to the Clock PanelFront (A). Next, attach the Clock Panel Back (A).Now, glue this assembly into position on the TopFloor (S). Note: screw or finishing nails can also beused if desired. Then attach the Bottom WindowPanels (K) and Bottom Floor Spacers (V) to the FrontPanel (I). Next, attach the Back Panel (I). Now attachthis assembly to the bottom of the Top Floor (S), andthe top of the Bottom Floor (R), securing with glue.Now, attach the Pendulum Bracket (P) and BottomBrackets (BB) into place. Attach the Door Assembly (L), Windows (D &J), Steps (W), Dial Underlays (Q & EE), Door Overlay(FF) and Overlay (DD) into position. Now, attachthe Rail Brackets (O) into place in the Front Panel(I) and Bottom Window Panels (K). Next, glue theBottom Front Brackets (X) to the Front Panel (I),along with the Lower Brackets (T) to the Front andBack Panels (I). Follow the same procedure to attachthe corresponding Brackets (H & CC) to the ClockPanel Front and Back (A). Should the Brackets fittoo tight on the Floors, sand slightly. At this time,attach the Front and Side Rails (Z & AA) to the Topand Bottom Floors (S & R). Then attach the DoorRoof (N) and Door Crest (M) into place securingwith glue. Now, attach the Roof (Y) to the top of theClock Panel ( A) assembly, and the Crest (B) to thefront of the Roof (Y). Next, secure the Deer (F) andTrees (G) into place on the Crest Top (E), and thensecure this assembly to the Crest (B). Finish asdesired. Attach the clock movement. Hang the pendulumrod from the movement and adjust the length bybreaking off sections in 1” increments.
3
6
12
9
FF
F GG
E
B
Y Y
QC EED
U
H
CC
S
AA
ZV
T
J
KR
O
M
L
N
I
Z
AA
V
W
X
P
BB
DD
#P568 - The Birmingham Clock
A
#P568
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002 • All Rights Reserved www.greatamericanscrollsaw.com • a division of The Berry Basket
GREAT AMERICAN
DOWNLOADABLE PATTERNS TM
#P568
ABCDEFGHIJKLMNOPQRSTUVWXYZAABBCCDDEEFF
1 each12211221 each22112811114121222424111
Clock Panel Front & BackCrest
Top Window PanelTop Window
Crest TopDeerTree
Front BracketFront & Back Panel
Bottom WindowBottom Window Panel
Door AssemblyDoor CrestDoor Roof
Rail BracketPendulum Bracket
Dial UnderlayBottom Floor
Top FloorLower Bracket
Top Floor SpacerBottom Floor Spacer
StepsBottom Front Bracket
RoofFront RailSide Rail
Bottom BracketUpper Bracket
OverlayDial UnderlayDoor Overlay
Description item Qty
#P568 THEBIRMINGHAM CLOCK
Size
1/4”T x 7 1/2”W x 10 7/8”L1/4”T x 7 3/4”W x 14 5/8”L1/4”T x 3 1/2”W x 8 1/8”L1/16 ” - 1/8”T x 2 3/16”W x 5 1/8”L1/4”T x 2 5/8”W x 8 1/8”L1/4”T x 5 3/4”W x 7 1/4”L1/4”T x 3 1/8”W x 5 1/8”L1/4”T x 1 1/2”W x 8”L1/4”T x 8 11/16”W x 10 7/16”L1/16” - 1/8”T x 2 13/16”W x 6 5/8”L1/4”T x 4 1/2”W x 10 1/2”L1/4”T x 7”W x 7 1/8”L1/4”T x 5 1/8”W x 7”L1/4”T x 1”W x 3”L1/8”T x 1 1/4”W x 2 3/8”L1/4”T x 6 7/8”W x 12 3/4”L1/8”T x 6 1/4”W x 6 1/4”L1/4”T x 6”W x 14 1/2”L1/4”T x 6”W x 14 1/2”L1/4”T x 4”W x 10 1/2”L1/4”T x 3 1/2”W x 7”L1/4”T x 4 1/2”W x 8 3/16”L1/4”T x 1”W x 7 7/8”L1/4”T x 1 1/2”W x 10 5/8”L1/4”T x 5 1/2”W x 7 3/8”L1/8”T x 2”W x 16”L1/8”T x 2”W x 6”L1/4”T x 1 3/4”W x 4 1/8”L1/4”T x 3 1/2”W x 7 1/4”L1/16” - 1/8”T x 3 5/8”W x 3 5/8”L1/8”T x 5 1/8”W x 5 1/8”L1/16” - 1/8”T x 3 1/4”W x 3 3/8”L
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
Clo
ck P
anel
Fro
nt
&B
ack
(A)
Stoc
k 1/
4”, c
ut 1
eac
h.To
p pa
ttern
pie
ce.
Smal
l das
hed
lines
indi
cate
pla
cem
ent
of U
nder
lay
(Q).
Dri
ll ho
le f
or c
lock
shaf
t.
Top Window Panel (C)
Das
hed
line
indi
cate
spl
acem
ent o
f C
lock
Und
erla
y (E
E).
Top Window Panel (C)
Atta
ch to
Top
Win
dow
Pane
l with
glu
e an
d#1
8 x
5/8”
fin
ishi
ngna
ils.
Das
hed
line
indi
cate
spl
acem
ent o
f D
oor
(FF)
.
Patte
rn o
verl
ap li
ne
#P568The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
Clo
ck P
anel
Fro
nt
&B
ack
(A)
Stoc
k 1/
4”, c
ut 1
eac
h.B
otto
m p
atte
rn p
iece
.
Dri
ll ho
le f
or c
lock
shaf
t.
Top
Floo
r Sp
acer
(U
)
Das
hed
line
indi
cate
spl
acem
ent o
f C
lock
Und
erla
y (E
E).
Not
e: C
ut a
4”
diam
eter
hol
ein
Bac
k (A
). T
his
will
allo
wyo
u to
cha
nge
the
batte
ry a
ndse
t the
tim
e.
Patte
rn o
verl
ap li
ne
#P568
Top
Win
do
w (
D)
Stoc
k 1/
16”
- 1/
8”, c
ut 2
Cre
st T
op
(E
)St
ock
1/4”
Adj
ust s
lots
, if
nece
ssar
y, f
orth
ickn
ess
of m
ater
ial u
sed.
Tre
eT
ree
Dee
r
Atta
ch to
Cre
st (
B)
with
glu
e or
sili
cone
.
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
#P568
Cre
st (
B)
Stoc
k 1/
4”L
eft p
atte
rn p
iece
.
Atta
ch to
Roo
f Fro
nt w
ith g
lue a
nd #
18 x
5/8
” fin
ishin
g na
ils.
Pattern overlap line
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
Pattern overlap line
Crest (B)
Stock 1/4”
Right pattern piece.
#P568
Dashed line indicatesplacement of TopWindow.
Top Window Panel (C)Stock 1/4”, cut 2
Top Floor Spacer (U)
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
#P568
Tree
(G
)St
ock
1/4”
, cut
2D
eer
(F)
Stoc
k 1/
4”
Front Bracket (H)Stock 1/4”, cut 2
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
#P568
Fro
nt
& B
ack
Pan
el (
I)St
ock
1/4”
, cut
1 e
ach.
For
Bac
k cu
t onl
y on
outs
ide
solid
line
. Top
pat
tern
pie
ce.
Bottom Window Panel (K)
Bottom Window Panel (K)
Atta
ch B
otto
m W
indo
wPa
nel (
K) w
ith g
lue
and
#18
x 5/
8” f
inis
hing
nai
ls.
Das
hed
line
indi
cate
spl
acem
ent o
fD
oor A
ssem
bly
(L).
Atta
ch R
ail
Bra
cket
(O
)he
re. C
ut s
lots
inFr
ont P
anel
onl
y.
Cut
Doo
r op
enin
g an
dR
oof
slot
s in
Fro
ntPa
nel (
I) o
nly.
Bot
tom
Flo
or S
pace
r (V
)
Das
hed
lines
indi
cate
plac
emen
t of
Roo
f (N
).
Patte
rn o
verl
ap li
ne
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
Fro
nt
& B
ack
Pan
el (
I)St
ock
1/4”
, cut
1 e
ach.
For
Bac
k cu
t onl
y on
outs
ide
solid
line
.B
otto
m p
atte
rn p
iece
.
Atta
ch to
Bot
tom
Flo
orSp
acer
(V
) w
ith g
lue
and
#18
x 5/
8” fi
nish
ing
nails
.
Bot
tom
Flo
or S
pace
r (V
)
Step
(W
) go
es h
ere
Patte
rn o
verl
ap li
ne
#P568
Bottom Window (J)Stock 1/16” - 1/8”, cut 2
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
Bottom Window Panel (K)Stock 1/4”, cut 2Top pattern piece.
Dashed line indicatesplacement of BottomWindow.
Bottom Floor Spacer (V)
Bottom Floor Spacer (V)Bottom Floor Spacer (V)
Attach Rail Bracket (O)here.
Pattern overlap line
#P568
Das
hed
line
indi
cate
spl
acem
ent o
f B
otto
mW
indo
w.
Bot
tom
Flo
or S
pace
r (V
)
Patte
rn o
verl
ap li
neB
ott
om
Win
do
w P
anel
(K
)St
ock
1/4”
, cut
2B
otto
m p
atte
rn p
iece
.
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
#P568
Do
or R
oo
f (N)
Stock 1/4”
Side view of Door Roof (N)
33°Top
Door Assembly (L)Stock 1/4”
Use knobs ordowels of yourchoice.
Use yourchoice ofhinges.
Please note: it may benecessary to sand theinside edges of the Doorso that it will open andclose more easily.
Rail Bracket (O)Stock 1/8”, cut 8
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
Pendulum Bracket (P)Stock 1/4”. Left pattern piece.
Bra
cket
(B
B)
Patte
rn o
verl
ap li
ne
#P568
Door Crest (M)Stock 1/4”
Attach Door Crest to Door Roofwith #18 x 5/8” finishing nails.
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
#P568
Pen
du
lum
Bra
cket
(P
)St
ock
1/4”
Rig
ht p
atte
rn p
iece
.
Das
hed
line
indi
cate
spl
acem
ent o
f O
verl
ay (
DD
)
Bracket (BB)
Pattern overlap line
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
#P568
Dial Underlay (Q)Stock: 1/8”
Dashed line indicates placementof Clock Overlay (EE).
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
Bottom Floor (R)Stock 1/4”Left pattern piece.
Front Panel (I)
Bot
tom
Win
dow
Pan
el (
K)
Bottom Floor Spacer (V)Stock 1/4”, cut 2Left pattern piece.
Cut on solid line for Pendulum.
Back Panel (I)
Step (W)
Side
Rai
l (A
A)
Front Rail (Z)
Patte
rn o
verl
ap li
ne
#P568The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
Bo
tto
m F
loo
r (R
)St
ock
1/4”
Rig
ht p
atte
rn p
iece
.
Fron
t Pan
el (
I)
Bottom Window Panel (K)
Pend
ulum
Bra
cket
(P)
Pend
ulum
Bra
cket
(P)
Bo
tto
m F
loo
r S
pac
er (
V)
Stoc
k 1/
4”, c
ut 2
Rig
ht p
atte
rn p
iece
.Cut
on
thes
e lin
es f
or B
otto
m F
loor
Spa
cer
(V).
Bac
k Pa
nel (
I)
Step
(W
)
Side Rail (AA)
Fron
t Rai
l (Z
)
Pattern overlap line
#P568The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
#P568
Top
Flo
or
(S)
Stoc
k 1/
4”, c
ut o
n ou
ter
solid
line
.L
eft p
atte
rn p
iece
.
Clo
ck P
anel
Fro
nt (
A)
Top Window Panel (C)
Clo
ck P
anel
Fro
nt (
A)
Side Rail (AA)
Fron
t Rai
l (Z
)
Top
Flo
or
Sp
acer
(U
)St
ock
1/4”
Lef
t pat
tern
pie
ce.
Cut
on
thes
e lin
es f
or T
op F
loor
Spa
cer
(U).
Cut
on
Solid
line
for
Pen
dulu
m.
Not
e: c
heck
ope
ning
for
pen
dulu
mm
ovem
ent y
ou a
re u
sing
.
Clo
ck P
anel
Bac
k (A
)
Fron
t
Pattern overlap line
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
#P568
Top
Flo
or
Sp
acer
(U
)St
ock
1/4”
Rig
ht p
atte
rn p
iece
.
Side Rail (AA)
Top
Flo
or
(S)
Stoc
k 1/
4”, c
ut o
n ou
ter
solid
line
.R
ight
pat
tern
pie
ce.
Top Window Panel (C)Pattern overlap line
Steps (W)Stock 1/4”, cut 1 each
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
#P568
Lower Bracket (T)
Stock 1/4”, cut 4
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
#P568
Bottom Front Bracket (X)
Stock 1/4”, cut 2
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
#P568
Bottom Bracket(BB)Stock 1/4”, cut 2
Side
vie
w o
f R
oof
(Y)
34°
34°
Roof (Y)Stock 1/4”, cut 2
TopAttach to Front & Back (A) with #18 x 5/8”finishing nails and glue.
Front
Side Rail (AA)Stock: 1/8”, cut 4
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
#P568 Upper Bracket (CC)Stock 1/4”, cut 4
Fro
nt
Rai
l (Z
)St
ock:
1/8
”, c
ut 2
Rig
ht p
atte
rn p
iece
.
Pattern overlap line
Fro
nt
Rai
l (Z
)St
ock:
1/8
”, c
ut 2
Lef
t pat
tern
pie
ce.
Atta
ch to
fron
t edg
e of
Top
& B
otto
m F
loor
sw
ith g
lue
and
#18
x 5/
8” f
inis
hing
nai
ls.
Pattern overlap line
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
#P568
Door Overlay (FF)Stock 1/16” - 1/8”Option: cut door at 3° bevel andthen glue back in so it extends out.
Dial Underlay (EE)Stock: 1/8”
Overlay (DD)Stock: 1/16” - 1/8”
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
#P569 - FloralCathedralA stately 30 1/2”H x12”W this beautifulfretwork clock offers adisplay area for yourfavorite figurine.Requires a 3 1/2”clock insert.
GENERAL SCROLLSAW TIPS & TECHNIQUES The following scrollsaw tips and techniques are intended to get you started and on your way to scrollsaw success.Not only will you find these techniques helpful in completing the this project, you will also find that they can be appliedto many other scrollsaw projects as well.
HARDWOODS VS PLYWOODS Selecting the type of material you will use is very important for the final outcome of your project. This project hasbeen designed so that hardwoods, plywoods, or a combination can be used to create your work of art. Hardwoods have their advantages as well as their disadvantages. They come in a variety of species, colors and grainpatterns, yet they are more time consuming requiring more sanding, are more likely to warp and are more expensiveto use. Plywoods, on the other hand, are less expensive, require less sanding, and come in a variety of standard thicknesses.They also are less likely to develop cracks or warp. We do, however, recommend that you use a top grade plywoodwithout voids, such as the Baltic and Finnish birches.
SANDING For most projects, it is best to sand the work piece prior to applying the paper pattern and cutting the design. Onceyou’ve cut the design, and removed the paper pattern, it may be necessary to lightly sand any glue residue remaining,along with any “fuzz” on the bottom side.
BLADE SELECTION There are many opinions pertaining to which blade to use with which type and thickness of material, as well as,with how intricate the design in the project is. The more timeyou put into scrolling, the more your choice of which blade touse will become personal preference. For the beginningscroller we make the following recommendations to getyou started:
USING THE PATTERNS Downloadable patterns give you the advantage of printing the patterns on your own printer at your own convenience.Be sure to download all of the file and save it to a disk or your harddrive according to your computer software’sinstructions. Once you have printed the number of pattern pieces that you will need to complete your projects, you are readyto apply the pattern to your work pieces. Apply the repositionable spray adhesive as directed in the next section. If your project requires piecing 2 or moresheets of paper together to make the full-size pattern piece, simply follow the instructions below for accurate alignment.
Blade Size Recommended#2/0 or #2
#5 or #7
#7 or #9
Material Thickness1/16” - 1/4”
1/4” - 1/2”
1/2” - 3/4” or thicker
Step 1Using a straightedge and a craft knife, cut on the dashed“Pattern Overlap Lines” to remove the excess paper.
Step 2Next, align the sections and secure together with clear tape.Now, apply the repositionable spray adhesive to the backsideof the paper pattern as instructed in the next section.
Cut onsolid line forFrame only.
Frame & BackStock: 1/8” - 1/4”, cut 1 eachLeft pattern piece.
Cut ondashed linefor Back
Patte
rn o
verl
ap li
ne Cleartape
Craft knife
Ruler
Patternoverlapline
REPOSITIONABLE SPRAY ADHESIVE Using a repositionable spray adhesive is the easiest and quickest way to transfer a pattern to your work piece afterphoto copying it. In a well ventilated area, lightly spray the backside of the paper pattern. Allow it to dry only until tacky- approximately 20 - 30 seconds. Then apply it to the work piece, smoothing any wrinkles if necessary. Two common problems that sometimes occur when using repositionable spray adhesive for the first time is applyingthe right amount onto the back of the pattern. Spraying too little may result in the pattern lifting off of the project beforeyou have finished cutting. If this occurs, clear scotch tape can be used to secure the pattern back into position. On theother hand, spraying too much will make it difficult to remove the pattern, If this occurs, simply use a hand held hair
dryer to heat the glue, which will loosen the pattern allowing it to be easilyremoved.
DRILLING STARTER HOLES When drilling starter holes it is best to drill close to a corner, ratherthan in the middle of the waste areas, as it will take less time for the bladeto reach the pattern line.
STACK CUTTING Stack cutting is fairly simple to do and can save you a lot of time whenyou have 2 or more identical pieces to cut for a project. If you are fairlynew to scrollsawing and stack cutting, we recommend cutting no morethan a total thicknessof 1/2” for bestresults. On projects with
fairly simple shapes to cut out, 2 or 3 layers could be held togetherby double-sided tape, or by using spray glue on paper to sandwichbetween the work pieces. On more intricate projects we suggest using #18 wire nails orbrads slightly longer than the total thickness of the stack you arecutting. Tack the nails into the waste areas you will cut out, alongwith a few around the outside of the project. If the nail has gonethrough the bottom of the work piece, use a hammer to tap it flush,or use coarse sandpaper to sand the points flush with the bottomof the work piece. If you are stack cutting hardwoods, do not tack the nail too closeto the pattern line or it may cause the wood to split. Another option would be to predrill for the nails with a slightlysmaller drill bit so the nail will fit snugly and hold the layers together securely.
SAWING THIN WOODS Occasionally you may find it difficult to control your workpiece when cutting in thin hardwoods or plywoods. Thefollowing suggestions should help to eliminate or reduce this problem.1. If you have a variable speed saw, reduce the speed to 1/2 to 3/4 of high speed.2. If you do not have a variable speed saw, it will help to stack cut 2 or more layers of your material to keep bettercontrol of the workpiece.3. For cutting any thickness of material it is very beneficial to keep at least one hand, if not both, partially touching thetable with your fingers for better control.4. Using a smaller blade with more teeth per inch helps to slow down how fast the blade is cutting. But keep in mindthat if the blade is leaving burn marks you will need to slow the speed down or use a blade with less teeth per inch.
VEINING Veining is a simple technique that will bring a lifelike
appearance to your project. The veins of a leaf or the folds
of clothing will look more realistic when this technique is
incorporated. To vein, simply saw all solid black lines as
indicated on the pattern. Some areas of the pattern you will
be able to vein by sawing inward from the outside edge, while
in other areas you will need to drill a tiny starter hole for the
blade.
AUXILIARY TABLE Most scrollsaws on the market today have an opening in
the table around the blade that is much larger than what you
really need. This often causes small and delicate fretwork to
break off on the downward stroke of the blade. An easy solution
is to add a wooden auxiliary table to the top of the metal table
on your saw.
To make an auxiliary table, choose a piece of 1/4” - 3/8” plywood
similar to the size of your current saw’s table. If you choose, you can
cut this plywood to the same shape as the metal table on your saw, or
any shape or size you prefer. However, we do recommend that you make
the table larger than what you think you will need for the size of the
projects you will make in the future.
Next, set the auxiliary table on top of the metal table. From the
underside of the metal table, use a pencil to mark the location where
the blade will feed through. Then turn the auxiliary table over and drill
a 1/16” - 1/8” diameter hole, or slightly larger than the blade you will
be using.
Finally, apply a couple of strips of double-sided carpet tape to the
metal table on each side of the blade. Then, firmly press the auxiliary
table onto the double-sided carpet tape, making sure that the blade is
centered in the hole.
FINISHING TECHNIQUES If you’ve made your project from hardwood, we recommend dipping your project in a dishpan type of container
that contains a penetrating oil such as Watco, Tung, or others. After dipping, allow the excess oil to drain back into
the pan and then follow the manufacturer’s instructions.
If you have chosen to use plywood, such as Baltic Birch, you can use any of the wide variety of wood stains
available on the market. We do, however, recommend sanding the surface thoroughly, in order for the plywood to
accept the stain more evenly.
As a final finish step, we highly recommend using a clear varathane type spray for a protective coating.
#P569
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002 • All Rights Reserved www.greatamericanscrollsaw.com • a division of The Berry Basket
GREAT AMERICAN
DOWNLOADABLE PATTERNS TM
#P569 Assembly Instructions1. Select your material from a variety of hardwoods orsolid core plywood.2. Measure each pattern piece and cut the work piecesto size accordingly. Sand as necessary.3. Make all pattern pieces by adhering the paper patternsto the work pieces with a repositionable spray adhesive.Cut the outer shapes and any interior designs. And drillwhere indicated.4. Remove all paper patterns. Sand where needed. Theedges can be rounded by sanding or using a smallroundover router bit if desired.5. Assemble by first attaching the Base Side tabs intothe Front and Back Base, securing with glue. Finishingnails can also be used if desired. Next, attach the BaseAnchors into position. Then attach the Floor to the Baseassembly. Now, attach the Sides to the Front and Backalong with the 2 Wall Anchors. And attach this assemblyto the Floor. Now attach the Spire Sides to the Front andBack Spires, along with the Spire Anchors. Glue thisassembly into place on the Ceiling, and then, glue theCeiling into place. Finish as desired, and insert the clockmovement.
A
B
C
D
EF
G
J
I
#P569 - Floral Cathedral Clock
L
H
L
K
3
6
12
9
FLORAL CATHEDRAL CLOCK#P569
FrontBack
Wall AnchorSide
Front & Back BaseBase Side
Front & Back SpireSpire Side
FloorCeiling
Base AnchorSpire Anchor
Description
ABCDEFGHIJKL
Item
11221 ea21 ea21124
Qty
1/4”T x 10”W x 16”L1/4”T x 10”W x 16”L1/4”T x 2 1/2”W x 14”L1/4”T x 7 3/8”W x 15 1/2”L1/4”T x 5 1/16”W x 9 15/16”L1/4”T x 6 1/2”W x 7 3/8”L1/4”T x 6 1/4”W x 14 1/2”L1/4”T x 10”W x 13 1/2”L1/4”T x 10”W x 12 1/2”L1/4”T x 6 3/4”W x 8”L1/4”T x 2”W x 5”L1/4”T x 1 1/4”W x 12 1/4”L
Size
Fro
nt
(A)
Stoc
k: 1
/4”.
Top
pat
tern
pie
ce.
Insert Wall Anchortab here.
Bor
e 3”
hol
e fo
r 3
1/2”
cloc
k in
sert
.
Patte
rn o
verl
ap li
ne
#P569
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
Insert Wall Anchor tab here.Insert Side tab here.
Insert Side tabhere.
Patte
rn o
verl
ap li
ne
Patte
rn o
verl
ap li
ne
Fro
nt
(A)
Stoc
k: 1
/4”
Mid
dle
patte
rn p
iece
.
#P569
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
Insert Side tabhere.
Patte
rn o
verl
ap li
ne
Fro
nt
(A)
Stoc
k: 1
/4”
Bot
tom
pat
tern
pie
ce.
Bac
k (B
)St
ock:
1/4
”. T
op p
atte
rn p
iece
.
Patte
rn o
verl
ap li
ne
#P569The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
#P569
Insert Side tab here.
Patte
rn o
verl
ap li
ne
Bac
k (B
)St
ock:
1/4
”M
iddl
e pa
ttern
pie
ce.
Patte
rn o
verl
ap li
ne
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
Pattern overlap line
Wall Anchor (C)Stock: 1/4”, cut 2
Insert Side tabhere.
Patte
rn o
verl
ap li
ne
Bac
k (B
)St
ock:
1/4
”B
otto
m p
atte
rn p
iece
.
#P569
Wall Anchor (C)Stock: 1/4”, cut 2Bottom pattern piece.
Pattern overlap line
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
Side (D)Stock: 1/4”, cut 2Top pattern piece.
Pattern overlap line
#P569The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
Side (D)Stock: 1/4”, cut 2Bottom pattern piece
Pattern overlap line
#P569The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
Fro
nt
& B
ack
Bas
e (E
)St
ock:
1/4
”, c
ut 1
eac
h
Side Base (F)
Side Base (F)
Base Anchor (K)
Base Anchor (K) Base Anchor (K)
Base Anchor (K)
#P569
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
#P569
Base Side (F)Stock: 1/4”, cut 2
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
#P569
Front & Back Spire (G)Stock: 1/4”, cut 1 each. Bottom pattern piece.
Pattern overlap line
Side
Spi
re (
H)
Side
Spi
re (
H)
Spir
e A
ncho
r (L
)
Spir
e A
ncho
r (L
)
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
#P569
Spire Side (H)Stock: 1/4”, cut 2. Bottompattern piece.Optional: Sand bottom,inside edges of the SpireSides, and The Front & BackSpires to sit flush on theCeiling.
Pattern overlap line
Pattern overlap line
Spire Side (H)Stock: 1/4”, cut 2. Top pattern piece.Optional: Sand bottom, inside edgesof the Spire Sides, and The Front &Back Spires to sit flush on the Ceiling.
Pattern overlap line
Front & Back Spire (G)Stock: 1/4”, cut 1 each. Top pattern piece.
Spir
e A
ncho
r (L
)
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
Floor (I)Stock: 1/4”Left pattern piece.
Front
Adjust slots, if necessary, for thethickness of the material used.
Insert Front tab here.
Insert Back Wall tab here.
Inse
rt B
ase
Side
tab
here
.
Side (D)
Patte
rn o
verl
ap li
ne
#P569The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
Floor (I)Stock: 1/4”Right pattern piece.
Inse
rt B
ase
Side
tab
here
.
Side (D)
Patte
rn o
verl
ap li
ne
#P569
Base Anchor (K)Stock: 1/4”, cut 2
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
#P569
Cei
ling
(J)
Stoc
k: 1
/4”
Spir
e (G
)
Spir
e (G
)
Not
e: D
ue to
the
angl
e of
the
Spir
eas
sem
bly,
it m
ay b
e ne
cess
ary
tosa
nd th
e in
side
and
/or
outs
ide
edge
s of
the
tabs
to f
it in
the
Cei
ling
slot
s ea
sier
.
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
#P569
Spire Anchor (L
)
Stock: 1/4”, c
ut 4
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
#P570 - LeavenworthRequires a pendulum movement kit(#A309 - #A312) 24”H x 14”W
GENERAL SCROLLSAW TIPS & TECHNIQUES The following scrollsaw tips and techniques are intended to get you started and on your way to scrollsaw success.Not only will you find these techniques helpful in completing the this project, you will also find that they can be appliedto many other scrollsaw projects as well.
HARDWOODS VS PLYWOODS Selecting the type of material you will use is very important for the final outcome of your project. This project hasbeen designed so that hardwoods, plywoods, or a combination can be used to create your work of art. Hardwoods have their advantages as well as their disadvantages. They come in a variety of species, colors and grainpatterns, yet they are more time consuming requiring more sanding, are more likely to warp and are more expensiveto use. Plywoods, on the other hand, are less expensive, require less sanding, and come in a variety of standard thicknesses.They also are less likely to develop cracks or warp. We do, however, recommend that you use a top grade plywoodwithout voids, such as the Baltic and Finnish birches.
SANDING For most projects, it is best to sand the work piece prior to applying the paper pattern and cutting the design. Onceyou’ve cut the design, and removed the paper pattern, it may be necessary to lightly sand any glue residue remaining,along with any “fuzz” on the bottom side.
BLADE SELECTION There are many opinions pertaining to which blade to use with which type and thickness of material, as well as,with how intricate the design in the project is. The more timeyou put into scrolling, the more your choice of which blade touse will become personal preference. For the beginningscroller we make the following recommendations to getyou started:
USING THE PATTERNS Downloadable patterns give you the advantage of printing the patterns on your own printer at your own convenience.Be sure to download all of the file and save it to a disk or your harddrive according to your computer software’sinstructions. Once you have printed the number of pattern pieces that you will need to complete your projects, you are readyto apply the pattern to your work pieces. Apply the repositionable spray adhesive as directed in the next section. If your project requires piecing 2 or moresheets of paper together to make the full-size pattern piece, simply follow the instructions below for accurate alignment.
Blade Size Recommended#2/0 or #2
#5 or #7
#7 or #9
Material Thickness1/16” - 1/4”
1/4” - 1/2”
1/2” - 3/4” or thicker
Step 1Using a straightedge and a craft knife, cut on the dashed“Pattern Overlap Lines” to remove the excess paper.
Step 2Next, align the sections and secure together with clear tape.Now, apply the repositionable spray adhesive to the backsideof the paper pattern as instructed in the next section.
Cut onsolid line forFrame only.
Frame & BackStock: 1/8” - 1/4”, cut 1 eachLeft pattern piece.
Cut ondashed linefor Back
Patte
rn o
verl
ap li
ne Cleartape
Craft knife
Ruler
Patternoverlapline
REPOSITIONABLE SPRAY ADHESIVE Using a repositionable spray adhesive is the easiest and quickest way to transfer a pattern to your work piece afterphoto copying it. In a well ventilated area, lightly spray the backside of the paper pattern. Allow it to dry only until tacky- approximately 20 - 30 seconds. Then apply it to the work piece, smoothing any wrinkles if necessary. Two common problems that sometimes occur when using repositionable spray adhesive for the first time is applyingthe right amount onto the back of the pattern. Spraying too little may result in the pattern lifting off of the project beforeyou have finished cutting. If this occurs, clear scotch tape can be used to secure the pattern back into position. On theother hand, spraying too much will make it difficult to remove the pattern, If this occurs, simply use a hand held hair
dryer to heat the glue, which will loosen the pattern allowing it to be easilyremoved.
DRILLING STARTER HOLES When drilling starter holes it is best to drill close to a corner, ratherthan in the middle of the waste areas, as it will take less time for the bladeto reach the pattern line.
STACK CUTTING Stack cutting is fairly simple to do and can save you a lot of time whenyou have 2 or more identical pieces to cut for a project. If you are fairlynew to scrollsawing and stack cutting, we recommend cutting no morethan a total thicknessof 1/2” for bestresults. On projects with
fairly simple shapes to cut out, 2 or 3 layers could be held togetherby double-sided tape, or by using spray glue on paper to sandwichbetween the work pieces. On more intricate projects we suggest using #18 wire nails orbrads slightly longer than the total thickness of the stack you arecutting. Tack the nails into the waste areas you will cut out, alongwith a few around the outside of the project. If the nail has gonethrough the bottom of the work piece, use a hammer to tap it flush,or use coarse sandpaper to sand the points flush with the bottomof the work piece. If you are stack cutting hardwoods, do not tack the nail too closeto the pattern line or it may cause the wood to split. Another option would be to predrill for the nails with a slightlysmaller drill bit so the nail will fit snugly and hold the layers together securely.
SAWING THIN WOODS Occasionally you may find it difficult to control your workpiece when cutting in thin hardwoods or plywoods. Thefollowing suggestions should help to eliminate or reduce this problem.1. If you have a variable speed saw, reduce the speed to 1/2 to 3/4 of high speed.2. If you do not have a variable speed saw, it will help to stack cut 2 or more layers of your material to keep bettercontrol of the workpiece.3. For cutting any thickness of material it is very beneficial to keep at least one hand, if not both, partially touching thetable with your fingers for better control.4. Using a smaller blade with more teeth per inch helps to slow down how fast the blade is cutting. But keep in mindthat if the blade is leaving burn marks you will need to slow the speed down or use a blade with less teeth per inch.
VEINING Veining is a simple technique that will bring a lifelike
appearance to your project. The veins of a leaf or the folds
of clothing will look more realistic when this technique is
incorporated. To vein, simply saw all solid black lines as
indicated on the pattern. Some areas of the pattern you will
be able to vein by sawing inward from the outside edge, while
in other areas you will need to drill a tiny starter hole for the
blade.
AUXILIARY TABLE Most scrollsaws on the market today have an opening in
the table around the blade that is much larger than what you
really need. This often causes small and delicate fretwork to
break off on the downward stroke of the blade. An easy solution
is to add a wooden auxiliary table to the top of the metal table
on your saw.
To make an auxiliary table, choose a piece of 1/4” - 3/8” plywood
similar to the size of your current saw’s table. If you choose, you can
cut this plywood to the same shape as the metal table on your saw, or
any shape or size you prefer. However, we do recommend that you make
the table larger than what you think you will need for the size of the
projects you will make in the future.
Next, set the auxiliary table on top of the metal table. From the
underside of the metal table, use a pencil to mark the location where
the blade will feed through. Then turn the auxiliary table over and drill
a 1/16” - 1/8” diameter hole, or slightly larger than the blade you will
be using.
Finally, apply a couple of strips of double-sided carpet tape to the
metal table on each side of the blade. Then, firmly press the auxiliary
table onto the double-sided carpet tape, making sure that the blade is
centered in the hole.
FINISHING TECHNIQUES If you’ve made your project from hardwood, we recommend dipping your project in a dishpan type of container
that contains a penetrating oil such as Watco, Tung, or others. After dipping, allow the excess oil to drain back into
the pan and then follow the manufacturer’s instructions.
If you have chosen to use plywood, such as Baltic Birch, you can use any of the wide variety of wood stains
available on the market. We do, however, recommend sanding the surface thoroughly, in order for the plywood to
accept the stain more evenly.
As a final finish step, we highly recommend using a clear varathane type spray for a protective coating.
A
A
B
C
C
D
E
E
F
R
G
I
J
K
L
M
N
P
#P570 - The Leavenworth
Q
3
6
12
9
H
#P570 The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002 • All Rights Reserved www.greatamericanscrollsaw.com • a division of The Berry Basket
GREAT AMERICAN
DOWNLOADABLE PATTERNS TM
#P570 - Assembly Instructions1. Select your material from a variety ofhardwoods or solid core plywood.2. Measure each pattern piece and cut the workpieces to size accordingly. Sand as necessary.3. Make all pattern pieces by adhering thepaper patterns to the work pieces with arepositionable spray adhesive. Cut the outershapes and any interior designs. And drillwhere indicated.4. Remove all paper patterns. Sand whereneeded. The edges can be rounded by sandingor using a small roundover router bit if desired.5. Assemble by first attaching the Front Panel(A) to the Window Panels (B). Then attach theBack Panel (A) and the Spacer (N). Now attachthe Floor (M) with glue and / or finishing nails.Proceed to attach the Roof (C) and glue theSide Brackets (E) into position. Next, attachthe Crest (D), Dial Underlays (H & P), andthe 2 Overlays (L & Q)). Now, attach the clockmovement (excluding the pendulum) beforeproceeding. Lay the clock assembly carefully on it’sfront. Attach Bottom (G) into place. Then laythe clock assembly on it’s back to attach theBottom Brackets (F). Next, attach Bottom (R),Pendulum Overlay (K), Front Fence (I) andSide Fences (J). Hang the pendulum rod fromthe movement and adjust the length by breakingoff sections in 1” increments.
#P570
1 ea2214211121112111
Front & Back PanelWindow Panel
RoofCrest
Side BracketBottom Bracket
BottomDial Underlay
Front FenceSide Fence
Pendulum OverlayOverlay
FloorSpacer
Dial UnderlayOverlayBottom
Description Item Qty
ABCDEFGHIJKLMNPQR
1/4”T x 7 1/4”W x 10 5/8”L1/4”T x 4 1/2”W x 8 3/4”L1/4”T x 6”W x 7”L1/4”T x 7 3/8”W x 14 1/4”L1/4”T x 2 1/2”W x 9”L1/4”T x 4 1/2”W x 6 1/2”L1/4”T x 7 1/4”W x 11 1/2”L1/8”T x 6 5/8”W x 6 5/8”L1/8”T x 1 3/4”W x 14 1/2”L1/8”T x 1 3/4”W x 6”L1/16-1/8”T x 4”W x 4”L1/16-1/8”T x 4”W x 6 3/4”L1/4”T x 6”W x 12 1/4”L1/4”T x 4”W x 6 3/4”L1/8”T x 5 1/4”W x 5 1/4”L1/16” - 1/8”T x 1 3/4”W x 2”L1/4”T x 5 1/4”W x 4 1/2”L
#P570 - THE LEAVENWORTHSize
Win
dow
Pan
el (
B)
Win
dow
Pan
el (
B)
Use glue and #18 x 5/8” finishingnails to attach Front & Back toWindow Panels.
Spacer (N)
Drill for clockshaft.
Small dashed linesindicate placement ofDial Underlay (P).
Dashed lines indicateplacement of DialUnderlay (H).
Note: Cut a 4” diameter holein Back Panel (A). This willallow you to change thebattery and set the time.
Pattern overlap line
Front & Back Panel (A)Stock: 1/4”, cut 1 each. Bottom pattern piece.
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
#P570
Front & Back Panel (A)Stock: 1/4”, cut 1 eachTop pattern piece.
Small dashed linesindicate placement ofOverlay (L).
Dashed lines indicateplacement of DialUnderlay (H).
Pattern overlap line
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
#P570
Window Panel (B)Stock: 1/4”, cut 2
Spacer (N)
Spacer (N)
Side
Bra
cket
(E
)
Side
Bra
cket
(E
)
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
#P570
Roof (C)Stock: 1/4”, cut 2
Top
FrontAdjust slots ifnecessary forthickness ofmaterial used.
26°
26°
Side
vie
w o
f R
oof
(C)
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
Cre
st (
D)
Stoc
k: 1
/4”
Lef
t pat
tern
pie
ce.
Roo
f (C
)
Roo
f (C
)
Atta
ch C
rest
to R
oof
with
#18
x 5
/8”
fini
shin
g na
ils.
Pattern overlap line
#P570
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
Bo
tto
m B
rack
et (
F)
Stoc
k: 1
/4”,
cut
2
Crest (D)Stock: 1/4”Right pattern piece.
Roof (C)
Patte
rn o
verl
ap li
ne
#P570
Side Bracket (E)Stock: 1/4”, cut 4
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
Pattern overlap line
Bo
tto
m (
G)
Stoc
k: 1
/4”,
top
patte
rn s
ectio
nR
ight
pat
tern
pie
ce.
Bo
tto
m (
G)
Stoc
k: 1
/4”,
top
patte
rn s
ectio
nL
eft p
atte
rn p
iece
.
Das
hed
line
indi
cate
spl
acem
ent o
f Pe
ndul
umO
verl
ay (
K).
Bottom Bracket (F)
Bottom Bracket (F)
Atta
ch to
Flo
or (
M)
with
glu
e an
d#1
8 x
5/8”
fin
ishi
ng n
ails
.
Pattern overlap line
#P570
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
Front Fence (I)Stock: 1/8”. Right pattern piece.
Floor (M)
Side
Fen
ce (
J)
Pattern overlap line
Front Fence (I)Stock: 1/8”. Left pattern piece.
Floor (M)
Side
Fen
ce (
J)
Pattern overlap line
#P570
Dial Underlay (H)Stock 1/8”
Dashed line indicates placementof Dial Underlay (P).
Drill for clock shaft.
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
#P570
Side Fence (J)Stock: 1/8”, cut 2
Floor (M)
Overlay (L)Stock: 1/16” - 1/8”
Dashed line indicatesplacement of Overlay (Q).
Pendulum Overlay (K)Stock: 1/16” - 1/8”
Overlay (Q)Stock: 1/16” - 1/8”
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
Flo
or
(M)
Stoc
k: 1
/4”
Lef
t pat
tern
pie
ce.
Sp
acer
(N
)St
ock:
1/4
”
Cut
on
thes
e lin
es f
or S
pace
r (N
).
Bac
k Pa
nel (
A)
Fron
t (A
)
Window Panel (B)
Bot
tom
(G
)B
otto
m (
G)
Window Panel (B)
Not
e: C
heck
ope
ning
for
pen
dulu
mm
ovem
ent y
ou a
re u
sing
.
Pattern overlap line#P570
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
#P570
Window Panel (B)
Pattern overlap line
Flo
or
(M)
Stoc
k: 1
/4”
Rig
ht p
atte
rn p
iece
.
Dial Underlay (P)Stock 1/8”
Drill for clock shaft.
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
#P570
Bottom (R)Stock: 1/4”, Glue tobottom of Bottom (G).
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
#P571 - Victorian QueenFretwork Clock inspired by 18th centuryVictorian elegance. 17”H x 21”W. Requiresa 3 1/2” clock insert.
GENERAL SCROLLSAW TIPS & TECHNIQUES The following scrollsaw tips and techniques are intended to get you started and on your way to scrollsaw success.Not only will you find these techniques helpful in completing the this project, you will also find that they can be appliedto many other scrollsaw projects as well.
HARDWOODS VS PLYWOODS Selecting the type of material you will use is very important for the final outcome of your project. This project hasbeen designed so that hardwoods, plywoods, or a combination can be used to create your work of art. Hardwoods have their advantages as well as their disadvantages. They come in a variety of species, colors and grainpatterns, yet they are more time consuming requiring more sanding, are more likely to warp and are more expensiveto use. Plywoods, on the other hand, are less expensive, require less sanding, and come in a variety of standard thicknesses.They also are less likely to develop cracks or warp. We do, however, recommend that you use a top grade plywoodwithout voids, such as the Baltic and Finnish birches.
SANDING For most projects, it is best to sand the work piece prior to applying the paper pattern and cutting the design. Onceyou’ve cut the design, and removed the paper pattern, it may be necessary to lightly sand any glue residue remaining,along with any “fuzz” on the bottom side.
BLADE SELECTION There are many opinions pertaining to which blade to use with which type and thickness of material, as well as,with how intricate the design in the project is. The more timeyou put into scrolling, the more your choice of which blade touse will become personal preference. For the beginningscroller we make the following recommendations to getyou started:
USING THE PATTERNS Downloadable patterns give you the advantage of printing the patterns on your own printer at your own convenience.Be sure to download all of the file and save it to a disk or your harddrive according to your computer software’sinstructions. Once you have printed the number of pattern pieces that you will need to complete your projects, you are readyto apply the pattern to your work pieces. Apply the repositionable spray adhesive as directed in the next section. If your project requires piecing 2 or moresheets of paper together to make the full-size pattern piece, simply follow the instructions below for accurate alignment.
Blade Size Recommended#2/0 or #2
#5 or #7
#7 or #9
Material Thickness1/16” - 1/4”
1/4” - 1/2”
1/2” - 3/4” or thicker
Step 1Using a straightedge and a craft knife, cut on the dashed“Pattern Overlap Lines” to remove the excess paper.
Step 2Next, align the sections and secure together with clear tape.Now, apply the repositionable spray adhesive to the backsideof the paper pattern as instructed in the next section.
Cut onsolid line forFrame only.
Frame & BackStock: 1/8” - 1/4”, cut 1 eachLeft pattern piece.
Cut ondashed linefor Back
Patte
rn o
verl
ap li
ne Cleartape
Craft knife
Ruler
Patternoverlapline
REPOSITIONABLE SPRAY ADHESIVE Using a repositionable spray adhesive is the easiest and quickest way to transfer a pattern to your work piece afterphoto copying it. In a well ventilated area, lightly spray the backside of the paper pattern. Allow it to dry only until tacky- approximately 20 - 30 seconds. Then apply it to the work piece, smoothing any wrinkles if necessary. Two common problems that sometimes occur when using repositionable spray adhesive for the first time is applyingthe right amount onto the back of the pattern. Spraying too little may result in the pattern lifting off of the project beforeyou have finished cutting. If this occurs, clear scotch tape can be used to secure the pattern back into position. On theother hand, spraying too much will make it difficult to remove the pattern, If this occurs, simply use a hand held hair
dryer to heat the glue, which will loosen the pattern allowing it to be easilyremoved.
DRILLING STARTER HOLES When drilling starter holes it is best to drill close to a corner, ratherthan in the middle of the waste areas, as it will take less time for the bladeto reach the pattern line.
STACK CUTTING Stack cutting is fairly simple to do and can save you a lot of time whenyou have 2 or more identical pieces to cut for a project. If you are fairlynew to scrollsawing and stack cutting, we recommend cutting no morethan a total thicknessof 1/2” for bestresults. On projects with
fairly simple shapes to cut out, 2 or 3 layers could be held togetherby double-sided tape, or by using spray glue on paper to sandwichbetween the work pieces. On more intricate projects we suggest using #18 wire nails orbrads slightly longer than the total thickness of the stack you arecutting. Tack the nails into the waste areas you will cut out, alongwith a few around the outside of the project. If the nail has gonethrough the bottom of the work piece, use a hammer to tap it flush,or use coarse sandpaper to sand the points flush with the bottomof the work piece. If you are stack cutting hardwoods, do not tack the nail too closeto the pattern line or it may cause the wood to split. Another option would be to predrill for the nails with a slightlysmaller drill bit so the nail will fit snugly and hold the layers together securely.
SAWING THIN WOODS Occasionally you may find it difficult to control your workpiece when cutting in thin hardwoods or plywoods. Thefollowing suggestions should help to eliminate or reduce this problem.1. If you have a variable speed saw, reduce the speed to 1/2 to 3/4 of high speed.2. If you do not have a variable speed saw, it will help to stack cut 2 or more layers of your material to keep bettercontrol of the workpiece.3. For cutting any thickness of material it is very beneficial to keep at least one hand, if not both, partially touching thetable with your fingers for better control.4. Using a smaller blade with more teeth per inch helps to slow down how fast the blade is cutting. But keep in mindthat if the blade is leaving burn marks you will need to slow the speed down or use a blade with less teeth per inch.
VEINING Veining is a simple technique that will bring a lifelike
appearance to your project. The veins of a leaf or the folds
of clothing will look more realistic when this technique is
incorporated. To vein, simply saw all solid black lines as
indicated on the pattern. Some areas of the pattern you will
be able to vein by sawing inward from the outside edge, while
in other areas you will need to drill a tiny starter hole for the
blade.
AUXILIARY TABLE Most scrollsaws on the market today have an opening in
the table around the blade that is much larger than what you
really need. This often causes small and delicate fretwork to
break off on the downward stroke of the blade. An easy solution
is to add a wooden auxiliary table to the top of the metal table
on your saw.
To make an auxiliary table, choose a piece of 1/4” - 3/8” plywood
similar to the size of your current saw’s table. If you choose, you can
cut this plywood to the same shape as the metal table on your saw, or
any shape or size you prefer. However, we do recommend that you make
the table larger than what you think you will need for the size of the
projects you will make in the future.
Next, set the auxiliary table on top of the metal table. From the
underside of the metal table, use a pencil to mark the location where
the blade will feed through. Then turn the auxiliary table over and drill
a 1/16” - 1/8” diameter hole, or slightly larger than the blade you will
be using.
Finally, apply a couple of strips of double-sided carpet tape to the
metal table on each side of the blade. Then, firmly press the auxiliary
table onto the double-sided carpet tape, making sure that the blade is
centered in the hole.
FINISHING TECHNIQUES If you’ve made your project from hardwood, we recommend dipping your project in a dishpan type of container
that contains a penetrating oil such as Watco, Tung, or others. After dipping, allow the excess oil to drain back into
the pan and then follow the manufacturer’s instructions.
If you have chosen to use plywood, such as Baltic Birch, you can use any of the wide variety of wood stains
available on the market. We do, however, recommend sanding the surface thoroughly, in order for the plywood to
accept the stain more evenly.
As a final finish step, we highly recommend using a clear varathane type spray for a protective coating.
#P571
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002 • All Rights Reserved www.greatamericanscrollsaw.com • a division of The Berry Basket
GREAT AMERICAN
DOWNLOADABLE PATTERNS TM
B
W
X
CC
CCZ
AA
Z
G
DD
I J BB
Z
Z
F
X
EE
E
L
H
K
SR
ST
UY V
D
#P571 - The Victorian Queen Clock
#P571
3
6
12
9
A
Q
N N
OO
P
M
M
#P571 - The Victorian Queen Clock
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
#P571
#P571 - The Victorian Queen
Front FrameBack Center Frame
Back Side FrameFront Leg 1st Floor2nd Floor
3rd floorCenter OverlayLeft Side Panel
Right Side PanelLeft Overlay
Right OverlaySupport CollarSupport Panel
Top Support PanelSupport Panel Design
End PanelSide Panel
End CapLeft End Cap
Right End CapTop Frame Spacer
Bottom Frame SpacerCenter Cap
End SupportEnd Cap
Right End PanelLeft End Panel
SeparatorFront Frame Support
Description
ABCDEFGHIJKLM
N, OPQRSTUVWXYZ
AABBCCDDEE
Item
11221111111122 ea1324211112421121
Qty
1/4”T x 7 1/2”W x 12 1/2”L1/4”T x 6 1/4”W x 14 1/2”L1/4”T x 8 1/4”W x 13”L1/4”T x 7 1/2”W x 12 1/2”L1/4”T x 4 9/16”W x 15 3/8”L1/4”T x 4 9/16”W x 15 3/8”L1/4”T x 4”W x 16”L1/4”T x 5”W x 7 3/8”L1/4”T x 3”W x 4 3/4”L1/4”T x 3”W x 4 3/4”L1/4”T x 2 3/8”W x 3 1/16”L1/4”T x 2 3/8”W x 3 1/16”L1/4”T x 3 1/4”W x 4 1/4”L1/16”T x 1 15/16”W x 4”L1/16”T x 1 15/16”W x 4”L1/4”T x 6”W x 7 1/4”L1/4”T x 2 3/16”W x 2 3/8”L1/4”T x 1 1/8”W x 2 3/8”L1/4”T x 13/16”W x 2 3/8”L1/4”T x 15/16”W x 2 3/8”L1/4”T x 15/16”W x 2 3/8”L1/4”T x 2 15/16”W x 12 1/4”L1/4”T x 1 9/16”W x 12 3/4”L1/8”T x 9/16”W x 2 3/8”L1/4”T x 1 1/8”W x 3 3/8”L1/4”T x 1”W x 3 1/8”L1/4”T x 3”W x 3 1/2”L1/4”T x 3”W x 3 1/2”L1/8”T x 1 1/4”W x 3”L1/4”T x 1/4”W x 4 1/4”L
Size
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
#P571
#P571 Assembly Instructions1. Select your material from a variety of hardwoods or solid core plywood.2. Measure each pattern piece and cut the work pieces to size accordingly. Sand as necessary.3. Make all pattern pieces by adhering the paper patterns to the work pieces with a repositionable spray adhesive.Cut the outer shapes and any interior designs. And drill where indicated.4. Remove all paper patterns. Sand where needed. The edges can be rounded by sanding or using a small roundoverrouter bit if desired.5. Assemble by first aligning the two Back Side Frames and the Back Center Frame side by side with their bottomsflush. Then attach the Top Frame Spacer with glue and finishing nails, making sure 1/4” space is left at the top forthe 3rd Floor. Next, place the 2nd Floor into position to get the proper spacing for the Bottom Frame Spacer. Placethe Bottom Frame Spacer so it butts up against the bottom of the 2nd Floor, and secure the Spacer in place with glueand finishing nails. Now, glue the 3 Floors into position on the above assembly. Next, insert the 2 Legs into position. Check to seethat all 4 feet are sitting flush on the table before gluing. Should one not touch, adjust the Front Leg(s) as needed bypulling the top or bottom of the Leg out slightly. Then glue to secure in place. Next, attach the Left and Right Overlays into position on the 1st and 2nd Floors, along with the 2 Center Caps.Then, attach the Center Overlay. Now, attach the 2 Separators to the Left and Right Side Panels. Then glue the FrontFrame Support into position behind the Front Frame, and then attach this assembly into place on the 2nd and 3rdFloors. Now, attach the Left and Right Side Panel assemblies into place between the 2nd and 3rd Floors. Next, attach 2 End Supports to each of the Right and Left End Panels. Then attach the End Caps to this assembly.Now, glue these assemblies into position between the 2nd and 3rd Floors. Now, glue the 4 Side Panels into place onthe ends of the 1st and 2nd Floors. Then, attach the 2 End Caps, the Right and Left End Caps, and the End Panelsinto place. Now, glue the 2 Support Collars into position, along with the 5 Support Panels. Then, attach the 3 Support PanelDesigns into place in the Top Support Panel. Finish as desired, and insert the clock movement.
Front Frame (A)Stock: 1/4”. Top pattern piece.
Pattern overlap line
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
#P571
Bore 3” hole for 3 1/2”diameter clock insert.
Front Frame (A)Stock: 1/4”
Dashed line indicatesplacement of Support Collaron backside.
Small dashed line indicatesplacement of SupportPanels.
Top Support Panel (P)
Supp
ort P
anel
(N) Support Panel (N
)
Support Panel (O)
Supp
ort P
anel
(O)
Support Collar (M)
Pattern overlap line
Front Frame (A)Stock: 1/4”. Bottom pattern piece.
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
Back Center Frame (B)Stock: 1/4”Top pattern piece.
3rd Floor
Dashed line indicatesplacement of Support Collaron frontside.
Small dashed line indicatesplacement of SupportPanels.
Top Support Panel (P)
Supp
ort P
anel
(N) Support Panel (N
)
Support Panel (O)
Supp
ort P
anel
(O)
Support Collar (M)
Pattern overlap line#P571
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
Back Center Frame (B)Stock: 1/4”Bottom pattern piece.
2nd Floor
1st Floor1st Floor
Bottom Frame Spacer (X) goes here.
Top Frame Spacer (W) goes here.
Pattern overlap line
#P571The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
3rd
Floo
rPa
ttern
ove
rlap
lineF
ron
t L
eg (
D)
Stoc
k: 1
/4”,
cut
2To
p pa
ttern
pie
ce.
2nd
Floo
r
Das
hed
lines
indi
cate
Bot
tom
Fram
e Sp
acer
(X
)
1st F
loor
Bac
k S
ide
Fra
me
(C)
Stoc
k: 1
/4”,
cut
2B
otto
m p
atte
rn p
iece
.
Patte
rn o
verl
ap li
ne
#P571The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
Back Side Frame (C)Stock: 1/4”, cut 2Top pattern piece.
3rd Floor
2nd Floor
Bottom Frame Spacer (X)
Pattern overlap line
#P571
Dashed line indicates TopFrame Spacer (W)
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
Front Leg (D)Stock: 1/4”, cut 2Bottom pattern piece.
1st Floor
2nd Floor
3rd Floor
Pattern overlap line
#P571The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
#P571
1st
Flo
or
(E)
Stoc
k: 1
/4”
Lef
t pat
tern
pie
ce.
Front
Leg
Side
Pan
el (
S)
Side
Pan
el (
S)
End Panel (R)
End Cap (T)
Left End Cap (U)
Bot
tom
Fra
me
Spac
er (
X)
Lef
t Ove
rlay
(K
)
Cen
ter
Ove
rlay
(H
)
Cen
ter
Cap
(Y
)
Pattern overlap line
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
#P571
1st
Flo
or
(E)
Stoc
k: 1
/4”
Rig
ht p
atte
rn p
iece
.
Front
LegSi
de P
anel
(S)
Side
Pan
el (
S)
End Panel (R)
End Cap (T)
Right End Cap (V)
Rig
ht O
verl
ay (L
)
Cen
ter
Cap
(Y
)
Pattern overlap line
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
2nd
Flo
or
(F)
Stoc
k: 1
/4”
Lef
t pat
tern
pie
ce.
Lef
t Sid
e Pa
nel (
I)
Front
Leg
Sepa
rato
r (D
D)
Fron
t Fra
me
(A)
Fron
t Fra
me
Supp
ort (
EE
)
End
Sup
port
(Z
)
End
Sup
port
(Z
)
End Cap (AA)
Top
Fram
e Sp
acer
(W
)
Left End Panel (CC)
Pattern overlap line
#P571The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
#P571
Rig
ht S
ide
Pane
l (J)
Front
LegEnd
Sup
port
(Z
)
End
Sup
port
(Z
)
End Cap (AA)
Sepa
rato
r (D
D)
Right End Panel (BB)
Pattern overlap line
2nd
Flo
or
(F)
Stoc
k: 1
/4”
Rig
ht p
atte
rn p
iece
.
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
3rd
Flo
or
(G)
Stoc
k: 1
/4”
Lef
t pat
tern
pie
ce.
Top
Fram
e Sp
acer
(W
)
Front
Leg
Fron
t
Pattern overlap line
#P571The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
Front Leg
Pattern overlap line
3rd Floor (G)Stock: 1/4”Right pattern piece.
#P571
Center Overlay (H)Stock: 1/4”. Attach with glue,and wire brads if needed.
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
#P571
Right Side Panel (J)Stock: 1/4”
14°
End
vie
w o
f R
ight
Sid
e
45°Top view of Right Side Panel (I)
Left Side Panel (I)Stock: 1/4”
InsertSeparator (DD)tab here.
14°
End
vie
w o
f L
eft S
ide
Pane
l (I)
45° Top view of Left Side Panel (I)
Left Overlay (K)Stock: 1/4”
Top view of Left Overlay (K)45°
Right Overlay (L)Stock: 1/4”
Top view of Right Overlay (L) 45°
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
#P571
Top Support Panel (P)Stock: 1/16”
Support Panel (N) & (O)Stock: 1/16”, cut 4
Cut 2 on these linesfor Support Panel (N).
Cut 2 on these lines forSupport Panel (O).
Support Collar (M)Stock: 1/4”, cut 2
Support Panel Design (Q)Stock: 1/4”, cut 3
End Cap (T)Stock: 1/4”, cut 2
Left End Cap (U)Stock: 1/4”
Top view of LeftEnd Cap (U)
45°
Right End Cap (V)Stock: 1/4”
Top view of RightEnd Cap (V)
45°
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
Bo
tto
m F
ram
e S
pac
er (
X)
Stoc
k: 1
/4”
Lef
t pat
tern
pie
ce.
Pattern overlap line
Top
Fra
me
Sp
acer
(W
)St
ock:
1/4
”R
ight
pat
tern
pie
ce.
Pattern overlap line
Bo
tto
m F
ram
e S
pac
er (
X)
Stoc
k: 1
/4”
Rig
ht p
atte
rn p
iece
.
Pattern overlap line#P571
Top
Fra
me
Sp
acer
(W
)St
ock:
1/4
”L
eft p
atte
rn p
iece
.
Pattern overlap line
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
#P571
Separator (DD)Stock: 1/8”, cut 2
Center Cap (Y)Stock: 1/8”, cut 2
Side Panel (S)Stock: 1/4”, cut 4
End
Cap
(T,
U, V
)
End Panel (R)Stock: 1/4”, cut 2
Fro
nt
Fra
me
Su
pp
ort
(E
E)
Stoc
k: 1
/4”
End Cap (AA)Stock: 1/4”, cut 2Sand bottom and topedges to fit intoposition.
End Support (Z)Stock: 1/4”, cut 4
Left End Panel (CC)Stock: 1/4”
End
Sup
port
(Z
)
End
Sup
port
(Z
)
End
vie
w L
eft P
anel
(CC
)12
°
45° Top view of Left End Panel (CC)
Right EndPanel (BB)Stock: 1/4”
End
Sup
port
(Z
)
End
Sup
port
(Z
)
End
vie
w L
eft P
anel
(CC
)12
°
45°Top view of Right End Panel (BB)
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
#P572 - Victorian Lynn Pendulum ClockFeel a sense of accomplishment when you createone of these treasured keepskakes. 34”H x 13”W.
GENERAL SCROLLSAW TIPS & TECHNIQUES The following scrollsaw tips and techniques are intended to get you started and on your way to scrollsaw success.Not only will you find these techniques helpful in completing the this project, you will also find that they can be appliedto many other scrollsaw projects as well.
HARDWOODS VS PLYWOODS Selecting the type of material you will use is very important for the final outcome of your project. This project hasbeen designed so that hardwoods, plywoods, or a combination can be used to create your work of art. Hardwoods have their advantages as well as their disadvantages. They come in a variety of species, colors and grainpatterns, yet they are more time consuming requiring more sanding, are more likely to warp and are more expensiveto use. Plywoods, on the other hand, are less expensive, require less sanding, and come in a variety of standard thicknesses.They also are less likely to develop cracks or warp. We do, however, recommend that you use a top grade plywoodwithout voids, such as the Baltic and Finnish birches.
SANDING For most projects, it is best to sand the work piece prior to applying the paper pattern and cutting the design. Onceyou’ve cut the design, and removed the paper pattern, it may be necessary to lightly sand any glue residue remaining,along with any “fuzz” on the bottom side.
BLADE SELECTION There are many opinions pertaining to which blade to use with which type and thickness of material, as well as,with how intricate the design in the project is. The more timeyou put into scrolling, the more your choice of which blade touse will become personal preference. For the beginningscroller we make the following recommendations to getyou started:
USING THE PATTERNS Downloadable patterns give you the advantage of printing the patterns on your own printer at your own convenience.Be sure to download all of the file and save it to a disk or your harddrive according to your computer software’sinstructions. Once you have printed the number of pattern pieces that you will need to complete your projects, you are readyto apply the pattern to your work pieces. Apply the repositionable spray adhesive as directed in the next section. If your project requires piecing 2 or moresheets of paper together to make the full-size pattern piece, simply follow the instructions below for accurate alignment.
Blade Size Recommended#2/0 or #2
#5 or #7
#7 or #9
Material Thickness1/16” - 1/4”
1/4” - 1/2”
1/2” - 3/4” or thicker
Step 1Using a straightedge and a craft knife, cut on the dashed“Pattern Overlap Lines” to remove the excess paper.
Step 2Next, align the sections and secure together with clear tape.Now, apply the repositionable spray adhesive to the backsideof the paper pattern as instructed in the next section.
Cut onsolid line forFrame only.
Frame & BackStock: 1/8” - 1/4”, cut 1 eachLeft pattern piece.
Cut ondashed linefor Back
Patte
rn o
verl
ap li
ne Cleartape
Craft knife
Ruler
Patternoverlapline
REPOSITIONABLE SPRAY ADHESIVE Using a repositionable spray adhesive is the easiest and quickest way to transfer a pattern to your work piece afterphoto copying it. In a well ventilated area, lightly spray the backside of the paper pattern. Allow it to dry only until tacky- approximately 20 - 30 seconds. Then apply it to the work piece, smoothing any wrinkles if necessary. Two common problems that sometimes occur when using repositionable spray adhesive for the first time is applyingthe right amount onto the back of the pattern. Spraying too little may result in the pattern lifting off of the project beforeyou have finished cutting. If this occurs, clear scotch tape can be used to secure the pattern back into position. On theother hand, spraying too much will make it difficult to remove the pattern, If this occurs, simply use a hand held hair
dryer to heat the glue, which will loosen the pattern allowing it to be easilyremoved.
DRILLING STARTER HOLES When drilling starter holes it is best to drill close to a corner, ratherthan in the middle of the waste areas, as it will take less time for the bladeto reach the pattern line.
STACK CUTTING Stack cutting is fairly simple to do and can save you a lot of time whenyou have 2 or more identical pieces to cut for a project. If you are fairlynew to scrollsawing and stack cutting, we recommend cutting no morethan a total thicknessof 1/2” for bestresults. On projects with
fairly simple shapes to cut out, 2 or 3 layers could be held togetherby double-sided tape, or by using spray glue on paper to sandwichbetween the work pieces. On more intricate projects we suggest using #18 wire nails orbrads slightly longer than the total thickness of the stack you arecutting. Tack the nails into the waste areas you will cut out, alongwith a few around the outside of the project. If the nail has gonethrough the bottom of the work piece, use a hammer to tap it flush,or use coarse sandpaper to sand the points flush with the bottomof the work piece. If you are stack cutting hardwoods, do not tack the nail too closeto the pattern line or it may cause the wood to split. Another option would be to predrill for the nails with a slightlysmaller drill bit so the nail will fit snugly and hold the layers together securely.
SAWING THIN WOODS Occasionally you may find it difficult to control your workpiece when cutting in thin hardwoods or plywoods. Thefollowing suggestions should help to eliminate or reduce this problem.1. If you have a variable speed saw, reduce the speed to 1/2 to 3/4 of high speed.2. If you do not have a variable speed saw, it will help to stack cut 2 or more layers of your material to keep bettercontrol of the workpiece.3. For cutting any thickness of material it is very beneficial to keep at least one hand, if not both, partially touching thetable with your fingers for better control.4. Using a smaller blade with more teeth per inch helps to slow down how fast the blade is cutting. But keep in mindthat if the blade is leaving burn marks you will need to slow the speed down or use a blade with less teeth per inch.
VEINING Veining is a simple technique that will bring a lifelike
appearance to your project. The veins of a leaf or the folds
of clothing will look more realistic when this technique is
incorporated. To vein, simply saw all solid black lines as
indicated on the pattern. Some areas of the pattern you will
be able to vein by sawing inward from the outside edge, while
in other areas you will need to drill a tiny starter hole for the
blade.
AUXILIARY TABLE Most scrollsaws on the market today have an opening in
the table around the blade that is much larger than what you
really need. This often causes small and delicate fretwork to
break off on the downward stroke of the blade. An easy solution
is to add a wooden auxiliary table to the top of the metal table
on your saw.
To make an auxiliary table, choose a piece of 1/4” - 3/8” plywood
similar to the size of your current saw’s table. If you choose, you can
cut this plywood to the same shape as the metal table on your saw, or
any shape or size you prefer. However, we do recommend that you make
the table larger than what you think you will need for the size of the
projects you will make in the future.
Next, set the auxiliary table on top of the metal table. From the
underside of the metal table, use a pencil to mark the location where
the blade will feed through. Then turn the auxiliary table over and drill
a 1/16” - 1/8” diameter hole, or slightly larger than the blade you will
be using.
Finally, apply a couple of strips of double-sided carpet tape to the
metal table on each side of the blade. Then, firmly press the auxiliary
table onto the double-sided carpet tape, making sure that the blade is
centered in the hole.
FINISHING TECHNIQUES If you’ve made your project from hardwood, we recommend dipping your project in a dishpan type of container
that contains a penetrating oil such as Watco, Tung, or others. After dipping, allow the excess oil to drain back into
the pan and then follow the manufacturer’s instructions.
If you have chosen to use plywood, such as Baltic Birch, you can use any of the wide variety of wood stains
available on the market. We do, however, recommend sanding the surface thoroughly, in order for the plywood to
accept the stain more evenly.
As a final finish step, we highly recommend using a clear varathane type spray for a protective coating.
#P572
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002 • All Rights Reserved www.greatamericanscrollsaw.com • a division of The Berry Basket
GREAT AMERICAN
DOWNLOADABLE PATTERNS TM
#P572 - Assembly Instructions1. Select your material from a variety of hardwoods or solidcore plywood.2. Measure each pattern piece and cut the work pieces to sizeaccordingly. Sand as necessary.3. Make all pattern pieces by adhering the paper patterns tothe work pieces with a repositionable spray adhesive. Cut theouter shapes and any interior designs. And drill where indicated.4. Remove all paper patterns. Sand where needed. The edgescan be rounded by sanding or using a small roundover routerbit if desired.5. Assemble by first attaching the Front and Back (B) to theSide Panels (C), then attach the Top Floor Spacer (P). Now,attach the Roofs (I) and the Crest (A). Attach this assemblyto Top Floor (H). Now, attach Front and Back (J) to the Side Arches (K).Then, attach the Top and Bottom Spacers (G). Attach thisassembly to Bottom Floor (L). And then attach the Top Floorassembly to the Top Spacer (G). Now, attach the Dial Underlays(D) and (O), Top Overlay (E), Back Overlay (Q), AngelOverlay (R), and Front Rails (F) and Side Rails (S). Next, attach the clock movement (excluding the pendulum).Then carefully lay the clock on its front and attach BottomBracket (M) into place. Then lay the clock onto its back andattach Center Bracket (N). Now hang the pendulum rod fromthe movement and adjust the length by breaking off sectionsin 1” increments.
3
6
12
9
#P572 - The Victoria Lynn
A
II
B
BC
E
D
O
PS
H
F
G
R
Q
JJ
GS
F
K
L
M
N
#P572
Description Item Qty
#P572 - The Victoria Lynn
ABCDEFGHIJKLMNOPQRS
11 ea21121 ea121 ea211111114
CrestFront & Back
Window PanelDial Underlay
Top OverlayFront Rail
Top & Bottom SpacerTop Floor
RoofFront & Back
Side ArchBottom Floor
Bottom BracketCenter Bracket
Dial UnderlayTop Floor Spacer
Back OverlayAngel Overlay
Side Rail
Size
1/4”T x 8 1/2”W x 13 1/2”L1/4”T x 7 1/2”W x 11 3/4”L1/4”T x 4 1/2”W x 8 3/4”L1/8”T x 6 7/8”W x 6 7/8”L1/4”T x 5”W x 6 1/4”L1/8”T x 1 1/4”W x 9”L1/4”T x 4 1/2”W x 7 1/2”L1/4”T x 6 1/2”W x 10 1/4”L1/4”T x 5 3/4”W x 7 3/4”L1/4”T x 8”W x 11 1/2”L1/4”T x 4 1/2”W x 11 1/2”L1/4”T x 6 1/2”W x 10 1/4”L1/4”T x 6 3/4”W x 8 7/8”L1/4”T x 3 7/8”W x 5 3/8”L1/8”T x 6 3/8”W x 6 3/8”L1/4”T x 4 1/2”W x 7”L1/8” - 1/4”T x 4 5/8”W x 4 5/8”L1/16” - 1/8”T x 3 3/4”W x 4 1/4”L1/8”T x 1 1/4”W x 5 3/4”L
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
Crest (A)Stock 1/4”Left pattern piece.
Patte
rn o
verl
ap li
ne
#P572The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
Attach to Roof (I) with glueand #18 x 5/8” finishing nails.
Patte
rn o
verl
ap li
ne
Crest (A)Stock 1/4”Right pattern piece.
#P572The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
Drill for clock shaft
Front & Back (B)Stock 1/4”, cut 1 eachBottom pattern piece.
Top Floor Spacer (P)
Side
Pan
el (
C)
Small dashed lineindicates placement ofOverlay (E).
Dashed line indicatesplacement of ClockOverlay (D).
Side
Pan
el (
C)
Note: Cut a 4” diameter holein Back (B). This will allowyou to change the battery andset the time.
Pattern overlap line
#P572The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
#P572
Front & Back (B)Stock 1/4”, cut 1 eachTop pattern piece.
Front & Back (B)Stock 1/4”, cut 1 each
Small dashed lineindicates placement ofOverlay (E).
Pattern overlap line
Drill for clock shaft
Dial Underlay (D)Stock 1/8”
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
#P572
Window Panel (C)Stock 1/4”, cut 2
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
#P572
Top Overlay (E)Stock 1/16” - 1/8”
Not
e: S
and
45° a
ngle
to f
itFr
ont a
nd S
ide
Rai
ls to
geth
er.
Fro
nt
Rai
l (F
)St
ock
1/8”
, cut
2
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
#P572
Side Rail (S)
Top
Flo
or
(H)
Stoc
k 1/
4”
Window Panel (C)
Bac
k (B
)
Fron
t (B
)
Window Panel (C)
Cut
on
thes
e lin
es f
or T
op F
loor
Spa
cer
(P).
Top
Floo
r S
pace
r (P
)St
ock
1/4”
Fron
t Rai
l (F)
Side Rail (S)
Cut
on
solid
line
for
Pen
dulu
m.
Not
e: a
djus
t pen
dulu
m o
peni
ng if
nee
ded.
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
#P572
36°
36°
Side
vie
w o
f R
oof
(I)
Roof (I)Stock 1/4”, cut 2
Top
Front
Attach to Front & Back (B)with glue and #18 x 5/8”finishing nails.
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
Attach Side Arch (K) with glue and#18 x 5/8” finishing nails.
Bot
tom
Spa
cer
(G)
Bot
tom
Spa
cer
(G)
Fro
nt
& B
ack
(J)
Stoc
k 1/
4”, c
ut 1
eac
h. C
ut d
esig
n in
Fro
nt o
nly.
Cut
out
er r
ecta
ngle
onl
y fo
r B
ack.
Bot
tom
pat
tern
pie
ce.
Not
e: A
djus
t pen
dulu
m r
od s
oth
at th
e bo
b ha
ngs
in th
isap
prox
imat
e lo
catio
n.Patte
rn o
verl
ap li
ne
#P572The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
#P572
Fro
nt
& B
ack
(J)
Stoc
k 1/
4”, c
ut 1
eac
h. C
ut d
esig
n in
Fro
nt o
nly.
Cut
out
er r
ecta
ngle
onl
y fo
r B
ack.
Top
patte
rn p
iece
.
Das
hed
line
indi
cate
s pl
acem
ent
of B
ack
Ove
rlay
(Q
).
Top
Spac
er (
G) Pa
ttern
ove
rlap
line
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
Sid
e A
rch
(K
)St
ock
1/4”
, cut
2B
otto
m p
atte
rn p
iece
.
Patte
rn o
verl
ap li
ne
Sid
e Arch
(K)
Stock 1/4”, cut 2Top pattern piece.
Pattern overlap line
#P572The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
#P572
Bo
tto
m F
loo
r (L
)St
ock
1/4”
Top
& B
ott
om
Sp
acer
(G
)St
ock
1/4”
, cut
1 e
ach.
Side Arch (K)
Side Arch (K)
Fron
t (J
)
Bac
k (B
)
Cut
on
thes
e lin
es f
or T
op &
Bot
tom
Spa
cer
(G).
Bra
cket
(M
)B
ack
(B)
Side Rail (S)
Fron
t Rai
l (F)
Cut
on
solid
line
for
Pen
dulu
m in
Top
Spa
cer
(G)
only
.
Not
e: a
djus
t pen
dulu
m o
peni
ng if
nee
ded.
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
#P572
Bo
tto
m B
rack
et (
M)
Stoc
k 1/
4”
Center Bracket (N)
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
#P572
Cen
ter Bracket (N
)Stock 1/4”
Dial Underlay (O)Stock 1/8”
Drill for clock shaft.
Fron
tS
ide
Rai
l (S
)St
ock
1/8”
, cut
4N
ote:
San
d 45
° ang
le to
fit
Fron
t and
Sid
e R
ails
toge
ther
.
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
#P572
Back Overlay (Q)Stock 1/8” - 1/4”
Dashed line indicatesplacement of AngelOverlay (R).
Angel Overlay (R)Stock 1/16” - 1/8”
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
#P573 - Bell TowerTowering spires and elegant fretwork combine tomake this an eye-catching focal point. 23”H x 19”W.A 3 1/2” clock insert is required.
GENERAL SCROLLSAW TIPS & TECHNIQUES The following scrollsaw tips and techniques are intended to get you started and on your way to scrollsaw success.Not only will you find these techniques helpful in completing the this project, you will also find that they can be appliedto many other scrollsaw projects as well.
HARDWOODS VS PLYWOODS Selecting the type of material you will use is very important for the final outcome of your project. This project hasbeen designed so that hardwoods, plywoods, or a combination can be used to create your work of art. Hardwoods have their advantages as well as their disadvantages. They come in a variety of species, colors and grainpatterns, yet they are more time consuming requiring more sanding, are more likely to warp and are more expensiveto use. Plywoods, on the other hand, are less expensive, require less sanding, and come in a variety of standard thicknesses.They also are less likely to develop cracks or warp. We do, however, recommend that you use a top grade plywoodwithout voids, such as the Baltic and Finnish birches.
SANDING For most projects, it is best to sand the work piece prior to applying the paper pattern and cutting the design. Onceyou’ve cut the design, and removed the paper pattern, it may be necessary to lightly sand any glue residue remaining,along with any “fuzz” on the bottom side.
BLADE SELECTION There are many opinions pertaining to which blade to use with which type and thickness of material, as well as,with how intricate the design in the project is. The more timeyou put into scrolling, the more your choice of which blade touse will become personal preference. For the beginningscroller we make the following recommendations to getyou started:
USING THE PATTERNS Downloadable patterns give you the advantage of printing the patterns on your own printer at your own convenience.Be sure to download all of the file and save it to a disk or your harddrive according to your computer software’sinstructions. Once you have printed the number of pattern pieces that you will need to complete your projects, you are readyto apply the pattern to your work pieces. Apply the repositionable spray adhesive as directed in the next section. If your project requires piecing 2 or moresheets of paper together to make the full-size pattern piece, simply follow the instructions below for accurate alignment.
Blade Size Recommended#2/0 or #2
#5 or #7
#7 or #9
Material Thickness1/16” - 1/4”
1/4” - 1/2”
1/2” - 3/4” or thicker
Step 1Using a straightedge and a craft knife, cut on the dashed“Pattern Overlap Lines” to remove the excess paper.
Step 2Next, align the sections and secure together with clear tape.Now, apply the repositionable spray adhesive to the backsideof the paper pattern as instructed in the next section.
Cut onsolid line forFrame only.
Frame & BackStock: 1/8” - 1/4”, cut 1 eachLeft pattern piece.
Cut ondashed linefor Back
Patte
rn o
verl
ap li
ne Cleartape
Craft knife
Ruler
Patternoverlapline
REPOSITIONABLE SPRAY ADHESIVE Using a repositionable spray adhesive is the easiest and quickest way to transfer a pattern to your work piece afterphoto copying it. In a well ventilated area, lightly spray the backside of the paper pattern. Allow it to dry only until tacky- approximately 20 - 30 seconds. Then apply it to the work piece, smoothing any wrinkles if necessary. Two common problems that sometimes occur when using repositionable spray adhesive for the first time is applyingthe right amount onto the back of the pattern. Spraying too little may result in the pattern lifting off of the project beforeyou have finished cutting. If this occurs, clear scotch tape can be used to secure the pattern back into position. On theother hand, spraying too much will make it difficult to remove the pattern, If this occurs, simply use a hand held hair
dryer to heat the glue, which will loosen the pattern allowing it to be easilyremoved.
DRILLING STARTER HOLES When drilling starter holes it is best to drill close to a corner, ratherthan in the middle of the waste areas, as it will take less time for the bladeto reach the pattern line.
STACK CUTTING Stack cutting is fairly simple to do and can save you a lot of time whenyou have 2 or more identical pieces to cut for a project. If you are fairlynew to scrollsawing and stack cutting, we recommend cutting no morethan a total thicknessof 1/2” for bestresults. On projects with
fairly simple shapes to cut out, 2 or 3 layers could be held togetherby double-sided tape, or by using spray glue on paper to sandwichbetween the work pieces. On more intricate projects we suggest using #18 wire nails orbrads slightly longer than the total thickness of the stack you arecutting. Tack the nails into the waste areas you will cut out, alongwith a few around the outside of the project. If the nail has gonethrough the bottom of the work piece, use a hammer to tap it flush,or use coarse sandpaper to sand the points flush with the bottomof the work piece. If you are stack cutting hardwoods, do not tack the nail too closeto the pattern line or it may cause the wood to split. Another option would be to predrill for the nails with a slightlysmaller drill bit so the nail will fit snugly and hold the layers together securely.
SAWING THIN WOODS Occasionally you may find it difficult to control your workpiece when cutting in thin hardwoods or plywoods. Thefollowing suggestions should help to eliminate or reduce this problem.1. If you have a variable speed saw, reduce the speed to 1/2 to 3/4 of high speed.2. If you do not have a variable speed saw, it will help to stack cut 2 or more layers of your material to keep bettercontrol of the workpiece.3. For cutting any thickness of material it is very beneficial to keep at least one hand, if not both, partially touching thetable with your fingers for better control.4. Using a smaller blade with more teeth per inch helps to slow down how fast the blade is cutting. But keep in mindthat if the blade is leaving burn marks you will need to slow the speed down or use a blade with less teeth per inch.
VEINING Veining is a simple technique that will bring a lifelike
appearance to your project. The veins of a leaf or the folds
of clothing will look more realistic when this technique is
incorporated. To vein, simply saw all solid black lines as
indicated on the pattern. Some areas of the pattern you will
be able to vein by sawing inward from the outside edge, while
in other areas you will need to drill a tiny starter hole for the
blade.
AUXILIARY TABLE Most scrollsaws on the market today have an opening in
the table around the blade that is much larger than what you
really need. This often causes small and delicate fretwork to
break off on the downward stroke of the blade. An easy solution
is to add a wooden auxiliary table to the top of the metal table
on your saw.
To make an auxiliary table, choose a piece of 1/4” - 3/8” plywood
similar to the size of your current saw’s table. If you choose, you can
cut this plywood to the same shape as the metal table on your saw, or
any shape or size you prefer. However, we do recommend that you make
the table larger than what you think you will need for the size of the
projects you will make in the future.
Next, set the auxiliary table on top of the metal table. From the
underside of the metal table, use a pencil to mark the location where
the blade will feed through. Then turn the auxiliary table over and drill
a 1/16” - 1/8” diameter hole, or slightly larger than the blade you will
be using.
Finally, apply a couple of strips of double-sided carpet tape to the
metal table on each side of the blade. Then, firmly press the auxiliary
table onto the double-sided carpet tape, making sure that the blade is
centered in the hole.
FINISHING TECHNIQUES If you’ve made your project from hardwood, we recommend dipping your project in a dishpan type of container
that contains a penetrating oil such as Watco, Tung, or others. After dipping, allow the excess oil to drain back into
the pan and then follow the manufacturer’s instructions.
If you have chosen to use plywood, such as Baltic Birch, you can use any of the wide variety of wood stains
available on the market. We do, however, recommend sanding the surface thoroughly, in order for the plywood to
accept the stain more evenly.
As a final finish step, we highly recommend using a clear varathane type spray for a protective coating.
#P573
#P573 - AssemblyInstructions
1. Select your material from a variety ofhardwoods or solid core plywood.2. Measure each pattern piece and cutthe work pieces to size accordingly. Sandas necessary.3. Make all pattern pieces by adheringthe paper patterns to the work pieceswith a repositionable spray adhesive. Cutthe outer shapes and any interior designs.And drill where indicated.4. Remove all paper patterns. Sand whereneeded. The edges can be rounded bysanding or using a small roundover routerbit if desired.5. Assemble by first attaching the Frontand Back (W) to the Sides (X), then addSpacers (Y). Next, attach this assemblyto Bottom floor (G). Now attach Frontand Back Panel (O) to the Side Windows(Q), and attach the Spacers (P). Thenattach Overlays (R) to the Side Windows.Now, attach the Front and Back Panelassembly to the Center Floor (F), andthen glue the Center floor to the Baseassembly (WXY). Attach Front Walls (H) and BackWalls (I) to The Sides Walls (J). Securethe Wall Anchors (V5) into place, andthen secure these assemblies to CenterFloor (F). Now, attach Roofs (C) and CenterCrest (D) to the Front and Back Gables(B). Attach this assembly to the Top Floor(E). Next, attach Crests (A), Top SideRails (V3), and Top Front Rail (V6).Then attach the Side Rails (V2), and SideRails (V4) into place. Now, attach theFront Legs (Z1), and then the Front Rails(V1). Then, attach the Rear Legs (Z2). Attach the Front Walls (S) and BackWalls (T) to the Side Walls (U). Then,attach the Ceilings (N), and Wall Anchors(M). Now, attach the Front and BackSpires (K) to the Side Spires (L), andattach this assembly to the Ceilings. Then,attach this entire assembly to the TopFloor (E). Attach the bells, and finish asdesired.
3
6
12
9
#P573 - Bell Tower Clock
AAD
C
B
KL
N
M
E
S
T
U
V2
V3V6
IJ R
O
QOP
V5
FV4
H
V1
V1
Z1
Y
Y W
W
XZ1
Z2
V4
G
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
#P573
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002 • All Rights Reserved www.greatamericanscrollsaw.com • a division of The Berry Basket
GREAT AMERICAN
DOWNLOADABLE PATTERNS TM
ABCDEFGHIJKLMNOPQRSTUV1V2V3V4V5V6WXYZ1Z2
#P573 - The Bell Tower
CrestFront & Back Gable
RoofCenter Crest
Top FloorCenter FloorBottom Floor
Front WallBack WallSide Wall
Front & Back SpireSide Spire
Wall AnchorCeiling
Front & Back PanelSpacer
Side WindowOverlay
Front WallBack WallSide WallFront RailSide Rail
Top Side RailSide Rail
Wall AnchorTop Front RailFront & Back
SideSpacer
Front LegsRear Legs
Description Item
22211112242 ea4821 ea2222242224811 ea2222
Qty Size
1/4”T x 3”W x 10 1/2”L1/4”T x 5 1/2”W x 6 3/8”L1/4”T x 5 3/4”W x 6 5/8”L1/4”T x 4 3/4”W x 7 3/8”L1/4”T x 5 3/4”W x 16”L1/4”T x 5 3/4”W x 16”L1/4”T x 5 3/4”W x 16”L1/8”T x 3 1/2”W x 7 1/2”L1/8”T x 3 5/8”W x 7 5/8”L1/8”T x 3 1/4”W x 7 3/8”L1/8”T x 2 5/8”W x 4 1/4”L1/8”T x 1 7/8”W x 4”L1/8”T x 5/8”W x 4”L1/8”T x 3”W x 3 1/8”L1/4”T x 7 3/8”W x 7 3/8”L1/4”T x 4”W x 6 7/8”L1/4”T x 4”W x 7 3/8”L1/16”-1/8”T x 2 5/8”W x 6 3/4”L1/8”T x 3 1/2”W x 7 1/4”L1/8”T x 3 5/8”W x 6 1/4”L1/8”T x 3 1/8”W x 6”L1/8”T x 3”W x 15 7/8”L1/8”T x 3”W x 4 3/4”L1/8”T x 3”W x 4 1/2”L1/8”T x 3”W x 5 3/4”L1/8”T x 5/8”W x 7 3/8”L1/8”T x 3”W x 6 1/2”L1/4”T x 3 7/8”W x 14 1/2”L1/4”T x 3 7/8”W x 4 1/2”L1/4”T x 4 1/2”W x 14”L1/4”T x 3 1/8”W x 8 3/8”L1/4”T x 3 5/8”W x 8 3/8”L
#P573
Crest (A)Stock 1/4”, cut 2
Attach to Roof withglue and #18 x 5/8”finishing nails.
Cen
ter
Cre
st (
D)
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
#P573
Front & Back Gable (B)Stock 1/4”, cut 2cut design for Front only.
Roo
f (C
)R
oof (C)
Cen
ter
Cre
st (
D)
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
#P573
58°
30°
Roof (C)Stock 1/4”, cut 2.Bevel edge by sanding on a belt sanderto fit against Center Crest (D).
Top
Front
Side
vie
w o
f R
oof
(C)
(B)
(B)
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
#P573
Center Crest (D)Stock 1/4”
Top of Roof (C)
Cre
st (
A)
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
#P573
Top
Flo
or
(E)
Stoc
k 1/
4”. L
eft p
atte
rn p
iece
.
Cre
st (
A)
Rail (V2)
Fron
t Gab
le (
B)
Roof (C)
Bac
k G
able
(B
)
Rai
l (V
6)
Fron
tTo
p Si
de R
ail (
V3)
Fron
t Wal
l (S)
Side Wall (U)
Side Wall (U)
Pattern overlap line
Fron
t Wal
l (T
)
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
#P573
Rail (V2)
Roof (C)
Bac
k G
able
(B
)
Top
Side
Rai
l (V
3)
Bac
k W
all (
T)
Fron
t Wal
l (S)
Side Wall (U)
Side Wall (U)
Cre
st (
A)
Pattern overlap line
Top
Flo
or
(E)
Stoc
k 1/
4”. R
ight
pat
tern
pie
ce.
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
#P573
Cen
ter
Flo
or
(F)
Stoc
k 1/
4”L
eft p
atte
rn p
iece
.
Rai
l V1
Rail (V4)
Sp
acer
(P
)St
ock
1/4”
, cut
2L
eft p
atte
rn p
iece
.
Fron
t Pan
el (
O)
Side Window (Q)
Cut
on
thes
e lin
es f
or S
pace
r (P
).
Bac
k Pa
nel (
O)
Bac
k W
all (
I)
Fron
t Wal
l (H
)
Side Wall (J)
Side Wall (J)
Pattern overlap line
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
#P573
Cen
ter
Flo
or
(F)
Stoc
k 1/
4”. R
ight
pat
tern
pie
ce.
Rail (V4)
Sp
acer
(P
)St
ock
1/4”
, cut
2R
ight
pat
tern
pie
ce.
Side Window (Q)
Bac
k W
all (
I)
Fron
t Wal
l (H
)
Side Wall (J)
Side Wall (J)Pattern overlap line
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
#P573
Not
e: S
and
angl
e to
fit
next
to F
ront
Leg
s
Bo
tto
m F
loo
r (G
)St
ock
1/4”
. Lef
t pat
tern
pie
ce.
Rai
l V1
Rail (V4)
Sp
acer
(Y
)St
ock
1/4”
, cut
2L
eft p
atte
rn p
iece
.
Fron
t (W
)
Side (X)
Cut
on
thes
e lin
es fo
r Spa
cer (
Y).
Bac
k (W
)
Pattern overlap line
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
#P573
Bo
tto
m F
loo
r (G
)St
ock
1/4”
. Rig
ht p
atte
rn p
iece
.
Rail (V4)
Sp
acer
(Y
)St
ock
1/4”
, cut
2R
ight
pat
tern
pie
ce.
Side (X)Pattern overlap line
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
#P573
Back Wall (I)Stock: 1/8”, cut 2
Inse
rt W
all
Anc
hor
tab
here
.
Front Wall (H)Stock: 1/8”, cut 2
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
#P573
Ceiling (N)Stock: 1/8”, cut 2
Front
Drill for a screw eyeto hold bell of yourchoice.
Wall Anchor (M)Stock: 1/8”, cut 8
Front & Back Spire (K)Stock: 1/8”, cut 2 each
Sp
ire
Sid
e (L
)St
ock:
1/8
”, c
ut 4
Side Wall (J)Stock 1/8”, cut 4
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
#P573
Spacer (P)
Spacer (P)
Front & Back Panel (O)Stock: 1/4”, cut 1 each. Cut designand clock insert opening in Front only.
Bore a 3” hole for a 3 1/2 dia.clock insert.
Side
Win
dow
(Q
)
Attach with glue and #18 x 5/8”finishing nails.
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
#P573
Sid
e W
ind
ow
(Q
)St
ock
1/4”
, cut
2 Smal
l das
hed
line
indi
cate
spl
acem
ent o
f ov
erla
y (R
).
Spac
er (
P)
Spac
er (
P)
Fro
nt
Wal
l (S
)St
ock:
1/8
”, c
ut 2
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
#P573
Side Wall (U)Stock: 1/8”, cut 4
Back Wall (T)Stock: 1/8”, cut 2
WallAnchor(M)
Ove
rlay
(R
)St
ock
1/16
” -
1/8”
, cut
2
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
Fro
nt
Rai
l (V
1)St
ock
1/8”
, cut
2L
eft p
atte
rn p
iece
.Bot
tom
Flo
or a
nd C
ente
r Fl
oor
Not
e: S
and
angl
e to
fit
next
to F
ront
Leg
s
Fro
nt
Rai
l (V
1)St
ock
1/8”
, cut
2. R
ight
patte
rn p
iece
.
Pattern overlap line#P573
Side Rail (V2)Stock 1/8”, cut 2
Top Floor (E)
Pattern overlap line
Atta
ch w
ith g
lue
and
#18
x 5/
8” f
inis
hing
nai
ls.
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
#P573
Top Front Rail (V6)Stock 1/8”
Attach Top Floor (E) with glue and #18 x 5/8” finishing nails.
Side Rail (V4)Stock 1/8”, cut 4Sand angle to fit
against Front Leg
Front
Center Floor (F) & Bottom Floor (G)
Wall Anchor (V5)Stock: 1/8”, cut 8
Top Side Rail (V3)Stock 1/8”, cut 2
Top Floor (E)
Outside edge
Rai
l (V
2)
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
#P573
Fro
nt
& B
ack
(W)
Stoc
k: 1
/4”,
cut
1 e
ach
Not
e: c
ut d
esig
n in
Fro
nt o
nly.
Rig
ht p
atte
rn p
iece
.
Side (X)
Pattern overlap line
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
#P573
Front Legs (Z1)Stock 1/4”, cut 2
Fro
nt
& B
ack
(W)
Stoc
k: 1
/4”,
cut
1 e
ach
Not
e: c
ut d
esig
n in
Fro
nton
ly. L
eft p
atte
rn p
iece
.
Side (X)
Spac
er (
Y)
Spac
er (
Y)
Pattern overlap line
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
#P573
Rear Leg (Z2)Stock 1/4”, cut 2
Attach to Floorswith glue and#18 x 5/8”finishing nails.
Sid
e (X
)St
ock:
1/4
”, c
ut 2
Spac
er (
Y)
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
#P574 - Pendulum Clock15”H. Order Movement #C131& Hands #C137 or #C138
GENERAL SCROLLSAW TIPS & TECHNIQUES The following scrollsaw tips and techniques are intended to get you started and on your way to scrollsaw success.Not only will you find these techniques helpful in completing the this project, you will also find that they can be appliedto many other scrollsaw projects as well.
HARDWOODS VS PLYWOODS Selecting the type of material you will use is very important for the final outcome of your project. This project hasbeen designed so that hardwoods, plywoods, or a combination can be used to create your work of art. Hardwoods have their advantages as well as their disadvantages. They come in a variety of species, colors and grainpatterns, yet they are more time consuming requiring more sanding, are more likely to warp and are more expensiveto use. Plywoods, on the other hand, are less expensive, require less sanding, and come in a variety of standard thicknesses.They also are less likely to develop cracks or warp. We do, however, recommend that you use a top grade plywoodwithout voids, such as the Baltic and Finnish birches.
SANDING For most projects, it is best to sand the work piece prior to applying the paper pattern and cutting the design. Onceyou’ve cut the design, and removed the paper pattern, it may be necessary to lightly sand any glue residue remaining,along with any “fuzz” on the bottom side.
BLADE SELECTION There are many opinions pertaining to which blade to use with which type and thickness of material, as well as,with how intricate the design in the project is. The more timeyou put into scrolling, the more your choice of which blade touse will become personal preference. For the beginningscroller we make the following recommendations to getyou started:
USING THE PATTERNS Downloadable patterns give you the advantage of printing the patterns on your own printer at your own convenience.Be sure to download all of the file and save it to a disk or your harddrive according to your computer software’sinstructions. Once you have printed the number of pattern pieces that you will need to complete your projects, you are readyto apply the pattern to your work pieces. Apply the repositionable spray adhesive as directed in the next section. If your project requires piecing 2 or moresheets of paper together to make the full-size pattern piece, simply follow the instructions below for accurate alignment.
Blade Size Recommended#2/0 or #2
#5 or #7
#7 or #9
Material Thickness1/16” - 1/4”
1/4” - 1/2”
1/2” - 3/4” or thicker
Step 1Using a straightedge and a craft knife, cut on the dashed“Pattern Overlap Lines” to remove the excess paper.
Step 2Next, align the sections and secure together with clear tape.Now, apply the repositionable spray adhesive to the backsideof the paper pattern as instructed in the next section.
Cut onsolid line forFrame only.
Frame & BackStock: 1/8” - 1/4”, cut 1 eachLeft pattern piece.
Cut ondashed linefor Back
Patte
rn o
verl
ap li
ne Cleartape
Craft knife
Ruler
Patternoverlapline
REPOSITIONABLE SPRAY ADHESIVE Using a repositionable spray adhesive is the easiest and quickest way to transfer a pattern to your work piece afterphoto copying it. In a well ventilated area, lightly spray the backside of the paper pattern. Allow it to dry only until tacky- approximately 20 - 30 seconds. Then apply it to the work piece, smoothing any wrinkles if necessary. Two common problems that sometimes occur when using repositionable spray adhesive for the first time is applyingthe right amount onto the back of the pattern. Spraying too little may result in the pattern lifting off of the project beforeyou have finished cutting. If this occurs, clear scotch tape can be used to secure the pattern back into position. On theother hand, spraying too much will make it difficult to remove the pattern, If this occurs, simply use a hand held hair
dryer to heat the glue, which will loosen the pattern allowing it to be easilyremoved.
DRILLING STARTER HOLES When drilling starter holes it is best to drill close to a corner, ratherthan in the middle of the waste areas, as it will take less time for the bladeto reach the pattern line.
STACK CUTTING Stack cutting is fairly simple to do and can save you a lot of time whenyou have 2 or more identical pieces to cut for a project. If you are fairlynew to scrollsawing and stack cutting, we recommend cutting no morethan a total thicknessof 1/2” for bestresults. On projects with
fairly simple shapes to cut out, 2 or 3 layers could be held togetherby double-sided tape, or by using spray glue on paper to sandwichbetween the work pieces. On more intricate projects we suggest using #18 wire nails orbrads slightly longer than the total thickness of the stack you arecutting. Tack the nails into the waste areas you will cut out, alongwith a few around the outside of the project. If the nail has gonethrough the bottom of the work piece, use a hammer to tap it flush,or use coarse sandpaper to sand the points flush with the bottomof the work piece. If you are stack cutting hardwoods, do not tack the nail too closeto the pattern line or it may cause the wood to split. Another option would be to predrill for the nails with a slightlysmaller drill bit so the nail will fit snugly and hold the layers together securely.
SAWING THIN WOODS Occasionally you may find it difficult to control your workpiece when cutting in thin hardwoods or plywoods. Thefollowing suggestions should help to eliminate or reduce this problem.1. If you have a variable speed saw, reduce the speed to 1/2 to 3/4 of high speed.2. If you do not have a variable speed saw, it will help to stack cut 2 or more layers of your material to keep bettercontrol of the workpiece.3. For cutting any thickness of material it is very beneficial to keep at least one hand, if not both, partially touching thetable with your fingers for better control.4. Using a smaller blade with more teeth per inch helps to slow down how fast the blade is cutting. But keep in mindthat if the blade is leaving burn marks you will need to slow the speed down or use a blade with less teeth per inch.
VEINING Veining is a simple technique that will bring a lifelike
appearance to your project. The veins of a leaf or the folds
of clothing will look more realistic when this technique is
incorporated. To vein, simply saw all solid black lines as
indicated on the pattern. Some areas of the pattern you will
be able to vein by sawing inward from the outside edge, while
in other areas you will need to drill a tiny starter hole for the
blade.
AUXILIARY TABLE Most scrollsaws on the market today have an opening in
the table around the blade that is much larger than what you
really need. This often causes small and delicate fretwork to
break off on the downward stroke of the blade. An easy solution
is to add a wooden auxiliary table to the top of the metal table
on your saw.
To make an auxiliary table, choose a piece of 1/4” - 3/8” plywood
similar to the size of your current saw’s table. If you choose, you can
cut this plywood to the same shape as the metal table on your saw, or
any shape or size you prefer. However, we do recommend that you make
the table larger than what you think you will need for the size of the
projects you will make in the future.
Next, set the auxiliary table on top of the metal table. From the
underside of the metal table, use a pencil to mark the location where
the blade will feed through. Then turn the auxiliary table over and drill
a 1/16” - 1/8” diameter hole, or slightly larger than the blade you will
be using.
Finally, apply a couple of strips of double-sided carpet tape to the
metal table on each side of the blade. Then, firmly press the auxiliary
table onto the double-sided carpet tape, making sure that the blade is
centered in the hole.
FINISHING TECHNIQUES If you’ve made your project from hardwood, we recommend dipping your project in a dishpan type of container
that contains a penetrating oil such as Watco, Tung, or others. After dipping, allow the excess oil to drain back into
the pan and then follow the manufacturer’s instructions.
If you have chosen to use plywood, such as Baltic Birch, you can use any of the wide variety of wood stains
available on the market. We do, however, recommend sanding the surface thoroughly, in order for the plywood to
accept the stain more evenly.
As a final finish step, we highly recommend using a clear varathane type spray for a protective coating.
#P574
ABCDEFGHIJKLMN
1 ea6222121112112
Front & BackRoof
GableGable Underlay
Side OverlayBottom Overlay
SideDial
BottomEagle
Leaf OverlayPendulum
DoorLeaf
Description Item Qty
#P574 - The Eagle Black Forest Clock
1/4”T x 6”W x 10 7/8”L1/4”T x 2”W x 5”L1/4”T x 2 3/8”W x 7”L1/4”T x 1 5/8”W x 5 7/8”L1/4”T x 2”W x 7 1/4”L1/4”T x 2 1/8”W x 5 3/8”L1/4”T x 3 1/2”W x 7 3/4”L1/8”T x 5 1/2”W 5 1/2”L1/4”T x 3 1/2”W x 5 1/2”L1/16” - 1/8”T x 5”W x 8 3/4”L1/16” - 1/8”T x 4 3/4”W x 8 1/2”L1/16” - 1/8”T x 4”W x 11 1/8”L1/16” - 1/8”T x 2 1/2”W x 5”L1/8”T x 4 1/8”W x 5 1/8”L
Size
1/4” diameter x 5”L dowel.
Front & Back (A)Stock: 1/4”, cut 1 each.Bottom pattern piece.
Roof (B)
Pattern overlap line
Front & Back (A)Stock: 1/4”, cut 1 each.Top pattern piece.
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2001 • All Rights Reserved www.greatamericanscrollsaw.com • a division of The Berry Basket
GREAT AMERICAN
DOWNLOADABLE PATTERNS TM
AA
B
B
B
C
D
E
E
F
G
H
I
J
K
N
L
N M
#P574 - EagleBlack Forest Clock
#P574 - Assembly Instructions1. Select your material from a variety of hardwoods or solidcore plywood.2. Measure each pattern piece and cut the work pieces to sizeaccordingly. Sand as necessary.3. Make all pattern pieces by adhering the paper patterns to thework pieces with a repositionable spray adhesive. Cut the outershapes and any interior designs. And drill where indicated.4. Remove all paper patterns. Sand where needed. The edgescan be rounded by sanding or using a small roundover routerbit if desired.5. Assemble by first attaching the Front to the Sides andBottom, then attach the Back. Now, attach the Roof pieces.Then, attach the Gable Underlay, Side Overlay and BottomOverlay into place. Next, attach the Dial and Door. Now, attachthe Gable to the Roof, and secure the Leaf Overlay, Leaves,and Eagle into place. Insert the clock movement and secure inplace. Finish as desired.
#P574
Front & Back (A)Stock: 1/4”, cut 1 each.Bottom pattern piece.
Dashed line indicatesDial (H).
Drill 5/16” hole forclock shaft.
Attach Sides (G) with glue and#18 x 5/8” wire brads.
Roof (B)
Roof (B)
Roof (B)
Note: Cut a 4” diameterhole in the Back. This willallow you to change thebattery and set the time.
Attach Sides (G) with glue and#18 x 5/8” wire brads.
Side
(G
)
Side
(G
)
Bottom (I)
Dashed lineindicatesplacement ofDoor (M).
Pattern overlap line
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2001
#P574
Gable (C)Stock: 1/4”, cut 2
Roof (B)
Roof (B)
Roof (B)
Gable Underlay (D)Stock: 1/4”, cut 2
Bottom Overlay (F)Stock: 1/4”
Side Overlay (E)Stock: 1/4”, cut 2
Top
Outsideedge
Bac
k (A
) Fron
t (A
)Roof (B)Stock: 1/4”, cut 6 Front
Top
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2001
Bo
tto
m (
I)St
ock:
1/4
”
Fron
t
#P574
Side (G)Stock: 1/4”, cut 2
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2001
#P574
Eagle
(J)
Stoc
k: 1
/16”
- 1/
8”
Dial (H)Stock: 1/8”Drill 5/16” hole for clock shaft.
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2001
Leaf Overlay (K)Stock: 1/16” - 1/8”, cut 2
Do
or
(M)
Stoc
k: 1
/16”
- 1
/8”
#P574The Berry Basket © Copyright 2001
#P574
Leaf (N)Stock: 1/8”, cut 2
Recommended PendulumMovement - #C131Hands - #C137 or #C138
Pendulum (L)Stock: 1/16” - 1/8”.Bottom pattern piece.
Pattern overlap line
Pattern overlap line
Diagram for Attaching Pendulum to Clock Movement
Secure one 1/4” sideof the hanger to thetop front of thePendulum withcontact cement orsuper glue.
2 Pendulum
Hook
Form a hanger by bending a thinpiece of sheet metal 3/8”W x 5/8”Linto the following shape
1
1/4”1/4”
1/8”
Side view of PendulumClock Movement Assembly
Clockmovement
Hook
Pendulum
Front
Insert the remaining1/4” side through
the pendulum hookon the Clock
Movement.
3
Hook
Clockmovement
Front
Pendulum (L)Stock: 1/8”. Top patternpiece.
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2001